Tag Archives: jewellery

This Week’s Jewellery Pick

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I recently finished the multiple award-winning show The Marvellous Mrs Maisel. And if you haven’t seen it yet, you know what you’ll be doing straight after reading this article!

The main character, Midge Maisel, played to perfection by Rachel Brosnahan is based on Joan Rivers.

Other characters are real, such as Lenny Bruce, others fictional. Created by Amy Sherman-Palladino, it portrays women’s experiences in the mid-20th century, focusing specifically on a young Jewish woman trying it to make it on the comedy scene.

The series is mostly set in the late 50s and 60s and the costume and jewellery are divine. Costume designer Donna Zakowska created a dream wardrobe for all the characters, earning her awards for her creativity.

Not only are the dresses and jewels visually stunning, they add and carry the story, they are a story of their own. Today I will look at the pearls used in the series and especially one set of doublestrand cultured pearls which Mrs Maisel wears for her first official stand-up at the Gaslight Café (a sticky downtown New York club where the great Joan Rivers also performed).

In this moment she experiences great success, slightly undermined by some misogynistic remarks, then put to right by her estranged husband, and the outfit is perfect and effective. A black dress complemented by a pearl necklace.

The double-strand is strung and knotted with 6mm peach cultured pearls. The pearls appear to be uniform in shape, colour and lustre.

And when looking to purchase pearls, these are the most determining factors in assessing pearl necklaces. In this scene, the choice of colour sends the message of softness, being peach and not gold, and also lets us extrapolate that she could become very successful in the future, the pearls being almost golden. Mrs Maisel and her success shine thanks to the peachy colour and also due to the pearls’ lustre. Lustre measures the rate of light reflecting off the surface of the pearl and the sharpness of reflection visible on its surface. We often describe these as poor, fair, good and excellent. The better the lustre, the more radiance and glow they emit.

The pearls are also well matched and round. Their shape in this scene is key. She is trying to make a name for herself in a male dominated industry, all the while maintaining and celebrating her femininity and exposing her marital instability and struggles as a mother. The roundness works brilliantly.

Though the above baroque pearl necklace comes with a generous price tag of £7,500 they would have sent a very different message than perfectly round pearls.

It was common practise to have faux pearls at the time and they were very effective. In today’s market they do not have any value. The costs of cultured pearls vary greatly depending on the factors mentioned above, amongst others. But essentially, their value depends on what they mean and signify to the wearer.

Protecting the Cash in the Attic

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Frequently, for those whose homes are filled with antiques and art – particularly when they have been treasured family possessions for generations – potential replacement values for insurance can be overlooked.

Whilst jewellery and silver are often undervalued for insurance – recent costs having increased – there are certain types of objects which can be discounted completely.

With that in mind, Doerr Dallas Valuations would like to share a few examples where interesting history and excellent quality have led to growing value and this fact may lead to under insurance.

Georgian Costume Jewellery

The 18th and early 19th centuries were a time of great innovation and advances in technology. One of the fields in which this was obvious was jewellery design. With sumptuary laws being ignored, and with a growing middleclass keeping up with the latest trends, the desire to own the most fashionable jewellery became widespread. This demand was met by advances in artificial stone production – what would now be described as paste jewellery. Paste stones could be manufactured in a range of dazzling colours – mimicking – or even more vivid than their precious stone equivalents. It made jewellery more affordable to the fashionable of the day.

Costume jewellery, in terms of its financial value, has often been disregarded in comparison with fine jewellery equivalents. However, in recent years a strong market for costume jewellery as a whole is evident. Recently, the Georgian paste jewellery market has strengthened resulting in rocketing prices.

At auction, estimates have been smashed – in February 2023 a suite of blue paste jewellery (parure) comprised of a necklace (which would have been attached by a ribbon), a bracelet and a pair of earrings was offered in auction (Woolley & Wallis lot 148) with an estimate of £200 – £300. The eventual total selling price was over £25,000!

Domestic Metalware

Objects made from brass, copper and pewter may appear ordinary but again their values can be surprising. Lighting, fire grates, door furniture, mortars are all things to consider when arranging an insurance valuation.

Early pieces are highly prized by collectors and their replacement value can be in the thousands. In a recent auction, (The Chapman Pewter Collection – Bishop Miller; April 2023) a rare pewter candlestick manufactured during the reign of Elizabeth I/ James I achieved a selling price of over £30,000 (Lot 43). If you are uncertain as to the origin of your metalware, it is always best to consult a specialist valuer.

Furniture

In recent years the antique furniture market has been much maligned, with reports of the decrease in values being widespread. While the market may not be that of the 1980s, quality antique furniture continues to be esteemed and seeking replacements competitive.

Modest oak and antique country furniture should be closely looked at when considering insurance. Windsor chairs, mule chests, dressers and farmhouse tables are respected amongst collectors.

Treen

In a similar vein to country furniture and domestic metalware – treen – domestic objects made from wood may have been disregarded. In this fierce collecting field, prices can be surprising and some objects extremely rare.

 

 

Toys, Games and Juvenilia

When considering a valuation, looking at the playroom or nursery may not be the first area for attention but with the market for antique toys and games proving ever popular, replacing these treasured possessions can be costly.

Important and interesting 18th and 19th century dolls houses are collected not only by those interested in toys, but for those with a passion for architectural history. These microcosms of the family home often include complete furniture and decoration – showing how families lived and operated their homes. To replace good examples, the anticipated cost will be upwards of £10,000.

Rocking horses have a history which dates back thousands of years – the toy in the current form has existed since the 19th century. Rocking horses, both antique and modern, are a focal point for a playroom and as such should often be insured. When looking to acquire a good 19th or early 20th century example, one should budget over £2,000.

Playing cards, board games and games compendiums may be valuable depending upon age, manufacturer and scarcity. Toy specialists can offer guidance on teddies, dolls and antique toys and games.

Exploring the hidden treasures in your attic could be a delightful journey down memory lane. These items which hold dear memories close to your heart might even surprise you with their financial value.

Jewellery Pick of the week – an alligator hinged bangle by Barry Kieselstein-Cord

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This week’s pick is a gold piece of jewellery with a lot of character and no gems. An alligator hinged bangle by Barry Kieselstein-Cord from the 1980s.

This bangle is made of 18ct yellow gold and realistically designed as an alligator with detailed teeth, eyes and skin. And it could be yours for £20,000.

It was offered at auction at Christie’s with an estimate of $4,000-6,000 and sold for $16,250, including premium.

So why the price tag? This item is a good example of how premium is added to craftsmanship. The bangle weighs a little over 100grms and has been worked and moulded with great care, attention and exceptional know-how.

Barry Kieselstein-Cord didn’t always work with gold. His first collection, dating 1972, was crafted in sterling silver. When we think of silver jewellery, one of the famous names that come to mind is George Jensen. Barry Kieselstein-Cord’s collection was bought and presented at Jensen’s flagship store on Madison Avenue in New York City (now closed).

He shot to stardom and his jewellery was soon a key accessory to have. Movie stars like Diane Keaton were quick to get their hands on this new stylist’s designs. He also worked closely with Calvin Klein and Helmut Newton.

His brand has extended into handbags over the years and are considered works of art. So much so that The Museum of Fine Arts in Houston exhibits his Alligator Trophy Handbag made in 1992.

He also created belt buckles, which caught the attention of the Spanish bull fighter El Cordobès who purchased a horse-head buckle in the 70s.

Whilst he was working with sterling silver he made a skull necklace for Mick Jagger’s 30th birthday and continues to this day to make iconic pieces. Though access to these is very limited and exclusive.

So if you want a piece of history, keep your eye on auctions and specialised vintage jewellery shops as these pieces are very rare and the market is scarce for these recognisable pieces.

This Week’s Jewellery Pick

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This week I saw a lovely collection of antique jewels, dating from the mid-19th century. Mid-19th century felt ‘relatively’ close until I realised it was getting closer to being 200 years old rather than 100… If you’re like me, the 80s was still only 20 years ago! Enough revelation on how old I am and back to this beautiful collection.

The one piece which caught my eye was an onyx mourning brooch dated 1854.

The oval onyx plaque, measuring 4cm x 4.5cm, has an overlaid border of acanthus leaf gold detail, the central glazed compartment with a lock of hair within a surround of 31 seed pearls, in closed-back setting. The reverse was engraved with ‘In Memory of Henry Thomas, Sept 14th 1854, Oct 54 years & 11 Months’.

Though its value might be relatively low, around £500 for Insurance purposes and £200 for open market value, one can immediately sense the priceless sentimental value this piece had.

When Prince Albert died on 14th December 1861 of typhoid fever, Queen Victoria entered a state of mourning and wore black for the remainder of her life.

It was then that onyx became fashionable. The court was quick to follow the new strict “dress code”. With wars and epidemics, death was everywhere. The demand for hair for mourning jewellery was such that it is said an extra 50 tonnes of human hair a year was imported to England to meet the demand.

Though a very personal jewel, the demand for mourning jewellery is constant. The below items, comprising of two mid-19th century gold and enamel mourning brooches and an 1830s gold locket, sold at Bonhams for £1,000 (including premium).

Mourning jewels are both sad and a beautiful statement of the love someone has for a departed. Whether antique or new, it is a celebration of the life that once was.

Stay tuned for next week’s jewellery pick…

Jewellery Valuation

Designer Jewellery Trends – An Upward Curve?

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There is no doubt that values in the designer jewellery field have seen uplifts in the past few years. A unique combination of the Post Pandemic luxury goods ‘boom’, an exponential rise in social media influences on buying patterns, wider inflation and bullion prices have all contributed to an incredibly buoyant and enduring atmosphere.

Similarly to the trends seen over the last couple of years in the watch market, particular designer brands saw a huge increase in popularity, visibility, and subsequent demand on the secondary market, with only a slight respite towards the end of 2023 (Reuters).

Coupled with retail prices ever increasing, the value of these ‘hot’ designer items have been pushed up on the secondary market. Value factors include condition, whether the piece has its box, and the perceived popularity or rarity of any gemstones used in the design.

Cartier

Whilst Cartier’s growth in the retail sphere appeared to be easing towards the end of last year, share prices and figures released in January 2024 display a definite upward curve driven by demand in Asia. This healthy overall trajectory has filtered down to the secondary market, with Cartier items at auction demonstrating a strong sales rate and frequently exceeding estimate.

‘Love’

The last retail price increase for Cartier was implemented in early 2023, with prices rising from anywhere between 3% to over 10%. The most sought-after and iconic collections naturally increased the most, with Pursebop estimating the retail price of an 18ct white gold Love Bracelet set with four diamonds increasing 7% to £12,200.

The Cartier ‘Love’ bangle is one of the most popular items of jewellery ever designed. Created by Aldo Cipullo in 1969 and were referred to as a ‘modern love handcuff,’ only removable with the help of a mini screwdriver.

Worth noting that some designs, including Aldo Cipullo original LOVE jewels from the 1960s onwards will always command a premium for their place in the brand’s design history. Another 1960s design by Cipullo to continue to grow in retail price is the Juste Un Clou, with a ‘small’ diamond set bangle selling for £4,850, and a diamond-set choker necklace now retailing at £105,000.

Cartier Trinity

This year, to celebrate 100 years of the Trinity Collection, Cartier has released two new designs, a re-edition of the XL bracelet and an XL version of the iconic ring. Maintaining the timeless appeal and enduring relevance of this beautiful collection has seen values continue to rise over decades, resulting in a classic collection that is still coveted a century after its creation.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Another brand under the Richemont umbrella is Van Cleef & Arpels. Van Cleef & Arpels was established in 1895 following the marriage of Estelle Arpels, daughter of a dealer in precious stones, and Alfred Van Cleef, son of a lapidary. Creating masterpieces such as the ‘invisible setting,’ the minaudière, and the zip necklace, this iconic jewellery house is perhaps best known in present times for the ‘Alhambra’ collection. Indeed, according to statistics by retailer Watch Pilot, in 2023, the Van Cleef Alhambra bracelet was the most Google searched item of jewellery by category.

VCA Alhambra

Designed in 1968 by Jacques Arpels to be symbolic for luck, the Alhambra Collection is designed around a series of quatrefoil ‘four leaf clover’ panels. Varying in designs with quantity, size, and gem material, these beautifully set clover shapes are truly emblematic of the brand. Worn by royalty and celebrities to include the likes of Princess Grace of Monaco, Elizabeth Taylor, Kate Middleton and many more, the Alhambra collection possesses a truly timeless appeal.

Since 2022, the retail price for an 18ct gold Alhambra bracelet with five mother of pearl motifs has increased by 5.3% to £3,950.

At auction, the Van Cleef Alhambra pieces that well exceeded estimates were limited edition runs and unique pieces that were impossible to procure from the retail market.

One such example was a striking collar necklace, formed from openwork Alhambra links in 18ct yellow gold, selling at Bonhams in 2022 for £50,000 against a £12,000-15,000 estimate.

Boodles

Boodle & Dunthorne was established in Liverpool in 1795, gaining a reputation as one of Britain’s finest jewellers. Rebranding to ‘Boodles’ in 2004, this coveted brand has designed several sought-after jewellery collections that continue to enjoy increases in value as the years go by. Collections such as the Velocity, Blossom, and Raindance are all designed and handcrafted in-house from Boodles’ workshops in the heart of London.

Raindance

Designed in 2000 and inspired by a trip to the Chelsea Flower Show in which Head of Design Rebecca Hawkins admired the way light played on raindrops, the Raindance Collection is seen as one of the brand’s most iconic collections. Indeed, the Victoria & Albert Museum has a Raindance ring on display as part of their ‘Best of British Design’ permanent exhibition.

Featuring a series of collet set diamonds in varying sizes and angles, these beautiful jewels are retailing from £3,400 for a single band set with three circular rubies or sapphires and a pair of brilliant cut diamonds. At the top end of the spectrum is the Raindance ‘Chelsea’ bracelet, set with over 15 carats of colourless and fancy pink diamonds at £134,400.

Celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2020, Boodles released a limited-edition ring, set in platinum and 18ct rose gold with colourless and Argyle pink diamonds. Varying in carat weights, these limited edition pieces will continue to grow in value and hold their own at auction. In 2023, one such example with approximately 2.80cts of diamonds sold at Tennants Auctioneers for £19,000. Meanwhile, a version of the design on Boodles website set with 4.25cts is available for purchase at £84,000.

To conclude, exquisitely constructed and expertly finished jewellery will always possess a value, and continue to rise according to demand, popularity and inflation over time.

Although trends and fashionable collections will alter and vary over the years, items from the premier jewellery houses, in good condition and with original boxes will retain a demand from collectors, jewellery lovers and indeed those new to the market. Pieces that possess an unusual or rare aspect, such as an early piece from the collection, limited edition runs, and unexpected gemstones can expect to exponentially increase in value over time.

With the clear discrepancy between open market value and retail replacement value, it is essential that clients are equipped with adequate cover for their items. For a specialist, informed and up to date valuation of your jewellery collection, contact our experienced, nationwide team at Doerr Dallas Valuations.

Unveiling the Brilliance Lab-Grown Diamonds

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When is a diamond not a diamond?

What do you call diamonds that are not formed underground but grown in a controlled environment that mimics the conditions under which natural diamonds develop? So, are they synthetic, lab-grown or factory grown or simply ‘diamonds’?

First of all, lets look at how you ‘grow’ those divine diamonds.

There are two popular ways to grow a diamond. Both involve starting with the ‘seed’ of another diamond. The first lab diamond was made in the 1960’s and the industry has changed massively in size and complexity in the intervening 65 years.

The growing of LGD’s is a little like the VHS and Betamax fight in the 1980’s. The first option is using a High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) system, where the seed is then placed amidst some pure graphite carbon and exposed to temperatures of about 1,500C and pressurised to approximately 1.5 million pounds per square inch in a chamber. The alternative model to make diamonds is called Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD). This was slower out of the starting blocks but the quality and size of diamonds produced using this method is arguably superior to HPHT.

This system involves putting the seed in a sealed chamber filled with carbon-rich gas and heating to around 800C. Under these conditions the gases begin to “stick” to the seed, growing a diamond carbon atom by atom.

No one knows quite yet who will win the fight like VHS did back in the day. Vast research development and investment is being put into both practises with neither side prepared to admit defeat yet.

LGD’s represent nature at its most perfect, at a fraction of the price of a natural diamond.

Retail

  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut LGD in 2021 – £16,500
  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut LGD in 2023 – £7,500
  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut certificated natural in 2021 – £55,000
  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut certificated natural in 2023 – £70,000

Some of the questions we are asked are ‘Are they real diamonds?’ and ‘Can you tell them apart from a natural diamond?’

The answer is yes to the first question. They test as a diamond (2.412 on a refractometer) visually and chemically identical to a natural diamond.

However, they can be told apart by those in the know.

Using LWUV and SWUV (long wave ultraviolet and short wave UV) the florescence of a factory made stone is an absolute giveaway. They often have a strong turquoise or purple colour that you never find in the natural world. The growth structure can also give away a man-made diamond because they were grown so quickly, the atomic structure does not have the same chance to settle into a classic framework.

The pricing of diamonds, whether natural or labgrown, depends on various factors such as carat weight, cut, colour, and clarity. While lab-grown diamonds are generally more affordable than their natural counterparts, the price difference is becoming more pronounced as technology advances and demand grows.

Natural diamonds are esteemed for their rarity, formed over millions of years deep within the Earth. Lab-grown diamonds, despite sharing the same physical and chemical properties, are sometimes perceived as less valuable due to their manufactured origin. Costs over the last two years has dropped in value of these stones while natural diamonds are keeping their value.

The latest findings propose that there is very little resale value for a LGD. Many auction houses will not take them and many of the large fine jewellery houses will not sell them including De Beers who set up their own LGD factory and company for their ‘Lightbox’ ranges. They stopped making engagement rings in 2022.

The marked retail price difference gives rise to the challenge in ensuring transparency and proper disclosure to the consumer. Some critics argue that buyers may not always be adequately informed about whether the diamond they are purchasing is natural or lab-grown.

Due to the price differential this could be a devastating find?

Did you know; if a diamond is marketed or sold or valued as a ‘diamond’, without a pre-fix such as lab-grown, synthetic etc, then it is assumed to be an earth grown natural diamond? All lab-grown diamonds of any shape or size must have a pre-fix to aid a consumer’s educated decision process.

During a recent valuation, a diamond ring was presented from a charming young man, who had purchased it to propose to his girlfriend. However, during our appraisal, Annabell had to give him the devastating news that it was not a natural diamond. He had purchased the stone for £38,000 when infact,the price should have been around £9,000– did the jewellers know it was lab grown?

This type of miss-selling has caused the potential for market confusion. Consumers might face challenges distinguishing between natural and lab-grown diamonds, impacting the perceived value of their purchases. So, it is important to buy your jewellery from a recognised jewellery company.

Having reviewed some of the challenges for LGDs verses natural diamonds, they are still hugely popular. In August 2023, LGD amounted to 50% of all diamonds purchased in America. Pandora, who are one of the world’s largest jewellery companies, uses LGD for many of their designs. Gems TV and ‘fashion jewellery’ brands are developing price sensitive ranges for LGDs and because of the size of the market and the lower margins being made, the producers are concentrating on melee size cut goods for watches and ‘halo’ rings and larger (2ct plus) ultra high quality diamonds, such as E & F colour VVS clarity.

So, are Lab-Grown Diamonds here to stay… the rise of lab-grown diamonds is indicative of a broader trend toward sustainable and ethical practices in the jewellery industry. While traditional diamonds maintain their allure and value, lab-grown diamonds are carving a niche for themselves, driven by consumer demand for more price sensitive choices. As technology continues to advance and consumers prioritise ethical considerations, lab-grown diamonds are likely to remain a significant player in the market. However, the coexistence of natural and lab-grown diamonds is expected, with each catering to different preferences and values. The issues associated with lab-grown diamonds against natural stones are multifaceted, touching upon perceived value, ethical considerations, disclosure, and market dynamics.

Will natural diamond values increase due to scarcity? Will women prefer to have a natural diamond on their finger rather than a lab-grown diamond or will price decide?

We wait and watch!

Antique Jewellery

Antique Jewellery

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Antique, heirloom second-hand jewellery is a finite commodity, sometimes incorporating unrepeatable craftsmanship and irreplaceable gemstones.

Some of my favourite jewels are antique pieces. The reason is simple: exceptional quality and craftsmanship. One could argue that with today’s tools and technology, jewels are just as well made, if not better. But there is a difference, the exquisite craftsmanship from a hundred, or two hundred years ago was so exceptional that these “artists” accomplished unique pieces, without our modern tools and are still admired to this day.

Cartier is often the go to example when discussing unique skills, then and now. The above Art Déco sautoir by Cartier, was sold at Christie’s in May 2012. With an estimate of CHF74,000-110,000 (approx. £60,000-85,000), it sold for CHF 507,000 (approx. £400,000), excluding premium. The hammer price reflects a combination of excellent work but also unique gems. The quality of the emeralds would have been chosen to be the most vivid green, eye-clean or with very few inclusions. And the pearls, would have had to be selected minutely to match in size, colour, overtone and quality. Any blemish to the nacre, and the pearl would have been discarded.

This necklace would have required hundreds of hours from skilled jewellers and tradesmen.

Another example of the skilled work is this below Belle Epoque pendant watch by Cartier. The pink is enamel and the technique is called guilloché enamel. It resembles waves and the know-how to achieve this is unparalleled. It was sold for CHF7,500 (approx. £6,700) excluding premium at Sotheby’s.

Though the technique requires exceptional skill, the piece’s relatively “low” value for an antique Cartier jewel, can be explained by the lack of gems. Unlike the sautoir, only a few rose-cut diamonds were used in this piece. As complex and unique as this piece is, the demand for such an item is less than, for example, the below rock crystal and diamond Art Deco bracelet by Cartier, and therefore commands a lower price.

The rock crystal and diamond bracelet sold at Sotheby’s for USD237,500. The seven larger old European-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 11.60 carats, are approximately H-I colour and SI-I clarity. The smaller old European, old mine and rose-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 6.80 carats, are approximately G-J colour and VS-I clarity. This piece, just as with the sautoir, is a perfect combination of choosing good quality gems, and working with a semiprecious gem, rock crystal, in such a manner, that probably only a handful of people could ever deal with. The bracelet was sold with a note from the jewellery department stating that it is “exceptionally flexible and supple”. An incredible achievement.

Side stepping away from the worldrenowned jeweller, is Bvlgari. In the 60s, Bvlgari created an entire collection based on antique and irreplaceable coins, the Monete collection. Launched in the 60s, it is one of their most celebrated and successful collections, worn by private individuals and also Hollywood glam, such as Anne Hathaway, below, wearing Monete High Jewellery by Bvlgari.

Their collection includes coins from centuries BC, and never-used replicas. This meant there was limited supply and sourcing took a long time when they initially launched the collection. As popularity grew stronger, sourcing became easier and quicker. Though readily available, these jewels still retail for several thousands, and tens of thousands of pounds.

Irreplaceable gems and antique jewels make up some of the most precious collections, whether on display in a museum or on sale at auction. Exceptional prices and auction sale results will always take the world by surprise but can we actually put a price on a unique antique items of jewellery? Sentimentality will always play a role when inheriting jewellery, and who could put a price on those feelings.

Ladies Valentine’s Gift Guide

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Valentine’s Day is named after Saint Valentine, a Catholic priest who lived in Rome in the 3rd Century. There are many stories about St Valentine and over time these stories grew into the legend we know today. It is an annual festival to celebrate romantic love, friendship, and admiration. Every year on the 14th of February people celebrate this day by sending messages of love and affection to partners, family, and friends.

Some people love it, some hate it, and some just ignore it altogether. We believe that rather than seeing it as an exclusively romantic occasion, why not look at it as an opportunity to show your favourite person how much you love them?

Although giving a gift is not essential, when it comes to showing a little appreciation, springing for one of the best Valentine’s gifts certainly won’t go unnoticed. For a few ideas on ways to celebrate, share, and spread the love this year this is our guide to what women want for Valentine’s day.

Tiffany & Co

Tiffany & Co was founded in 1837 and has been in the hearts and collections of jewellery lovers for 187 years. They have a fabulous range of jewellery including diamond engagement rings and designs by Schlumberger and Paloma Piccasso. One especially romantically themed design is the Open Heart Collection by Elsa Peretti.

Elsa Peretti’s history with the brand started in 1974, when she began her longstanding collaboration that resulted in the creation of many of Tiffany and Co.’s most iconic designs.

Known for her unique silhouettes, Peretti designed Tiffany pieces that have now become synonymous with love, minimalism, and luxury. The Open Heart Collection, which features sleek heart designs strung from delicate chains or ropes, has been a bestseller since its release. Pieces are available in gold and silver and some are diamond set. The design has featured in many films, including Bridget Jones’s Diary.

Due to their popularity these pieces increase in value every year. They remain extremely popular, often going out of stock, they also sell very well on the open market.

Here is an Elsa Peretti Open heart pendant in 18ct yellow gold retailing for £2,225.

This diamond and platinum open heart retails for just under £8,000.

This Elsa Peretti mesh link heart retails for £7,725.

Boodles Ashoka Diamonds

Diamonds have been a declaration of true love for centuries and the Boodles Ashoka diamond is a great way to express some individuality.

Boodles is the only jeweller to offer Ashoka-cut diamonds and their range includes diamond rings, earrings, bracelets, and necklaces. The Ashoka cut is named after an ancient Indian emperor and has an impressive 62 facets. They are prized for both rarity and incomparable sparkle.

Here are some Ashoka diamonds with an estimate of $70,000 to $90,000 at a 2015 sale at Bonhams in New York.

The Ashoka diamond range retails at prices from the low thousands up to hundreds of thousands of pounds. Here is a beautiful Ashoka diamond ring weighing 7.00cts.

These Ashoka diamond earrings retail for £27,500.

Cartier

Nothing says I love you, like a Cartier Love bracelet.

The Love bracelet was designed by Aldo Cipullo in 1969 in New York. He wanted to design a bracelet that fit as closely as possible to a loved one’s wrist. Not only that, it was also intended to be worn by both men and women. They were referred to as a “modern love handcuff” for the way in which they are secured using a screwdriver.

It is rumoured that Cartier once banned customers from buying the Love bracelet for themselves, with a policy stating that they could only be purchased by a couple. It was even designed to require the assistance of someone else to put it on.

The diamond-studded Love bracelet was first introduced in 1979, ten years after the original.

When the Love bracelet was first launched, it is said that Cartier gave pairs of them to some of the most famous couples of the 20th century, including the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Ali MacGraw and Steve McQueen, and Sophia Loren and Carlo Ponti.

There are now many variations of the Love bracelet including some set with diamonds.

For example, this diamond set Love bracelet with 1.99ct of diamonds retails for £45,400.

A 18ct gold Love bracelet is available for just over £7,000.

Synthetic diamonds

Synthetic diamonds are becoming a very popular choice in the jewellery market. Lab grown diamonds are visually, chemically, and physically the same as a diamond mined from the earth. The only difference is that it is created in a laboratory and it’s here where they emulate the natural process of a diamond’s growth. They are also considered a more sustainable option than mined diamonds.

Here is a diamond line bracelet set with 6cts of diamonds retailing for $6,999.

Here is a Lab grown diamond pendant set with a 1ct diamond retailing for $1,200.

Here is a pair of fancy blue and pink synthetic diamonds retailing for $250.

Chanel Classic

A Chanel handbag always makes a fantastic gift. Their designs are timeless.

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel introduced her first version of the classic bag with flap in February of 1955. Now known as the 2.55, it was revolutionary because of its functionality; the shoulder bag freed women’s hands to do other things than hold a cumbersome handbag.

This Chanel pink flap bag retails for £5,200 and has the Classic style in a summer fabric.

This small Chanel Bucket bag retails for £4,260.

Conclusion

There’s nothing greater than seeing a loved one, friend or member of the family enjoying luxury gifts. It is always important to make sure that your insurance valuation is up to date, should the very worst happen. Having an out-of-date valuation can result in an underpayment if you were to make a claim. Retailers such as Cartier, Tiffany & Co and Chanel often increase their retail values by up to 40% twice a year. If you need an up-todate valuation, then contact the experts at Doerr Dallas Valuations on 01883 722 736.

Gents Valentine’s Gift Guide

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Valentine’s Day is fast approaching, and this is undoubtedly a busy time for jewellers all over the world. An irrevocably sentimental art form, jewellery has been a tangible token of love for centuries. From the breathtaking Posy rings of the Medieval times to mysterious ‘Lover’s Eye’ brooches fashionable in the Georgian era, symbolic and acrostic Victorian jewellery, all the way to modern day engagement rings, eternity rings and promise rings, jewellery has expressed love in many, many forms!

During this busy time in the retail sphere, much attention is given to jewellery for her. However, there are a stunning selection of pieces also suitable for showing your love to the gentleman in your life. The demand is there, Tiffany & Co. made brand history in October last year for launching their first ‘Tiffany Men’s’ collection, to cater to a wider audience and a keen consumer base. With that in mind, here is a ‘gents gift guide’ for that special man in your life, with examples ranging from the 19th century all the way to the present day.

Rings

Understandably, rings on Valentine’s Day are certainly sending a very strong message but as a gift for a spouse, a special dress ring could be the perfect piece! According to GHQ Magazine, rings are the top male jewellery trend of 2024. Citing inspiration from the likes of Harry Styles, bold, stacked rings are the accessory of the year.

Whilst most will steer away from Harry’s maximalist styling, the ring is the classic token of enduring love and affection, symbolised in its circular form. Ideas for gifts could include a classic signet ring in a heavy gauge and engraving for everyday wear, perhaps a fascinating gemstone intaglio for a history lover or decorated with enamelled detailing that is highly personal to the wearer.

Intaglio jewellery, particularly early and crystalline gem-set pieces sold exceptionally well at auction in 2023, and continue to exponentially rise in value, so it is extremely important to ensure your items possess an up-to-date insurance valuation.

Unique band rings are also an easy style to incorporate into a jewellery rotation and update a look. Adding silver, gold, or platinum bands are an easy way to enhance an ensemble. Part of Tiffany’s 2023 ‘Forge’ collection, this unique linked band is available in silver and blackened silver finishes and form a great entry piece for collectors. Another iconic gold band is the classic ‘B.Zero1’ ring by Bulgari, retailing at £3,200. This design was debuted in 1999 and has become a classic, for its unique spiral design, generous proportions, and striking double logo.

Cufflinks

For a more classic look, a beautiful pair of cufflinks will always be in style. Pairs of cufflinks set in gold or platinum and paired with gemstones rating higher on the Moh’s scale of hardness such as diamond, sapphire and topaz will ensure a gift that can be worn again and again.

As a rule, cufflinks that retain and increase in value are those by well-known and revered makers. Early 20th century antique cufflinks from the likes of August Frederik Hollming for Fabergé, set with precious gemstones, ornamented with the maker’s famed enamel, and bearing maker’s marks would be the perfect gift for any discerning collector.

Without a doubt, Cartier produced an exceptional array of fine cufflinks and dress sets from the early 20th century onwards. With an exceptional and varied output spanning decades, styles, gemstones, and featuring designs from the ostentatious to the refined, and the timeless to the novelty, these cufflinks are amongst the most sought-after at auction, with diamond-set examples selling for in excess of £52,000 (Christies, Auction 15493, 2018).

Particularly stylish and useful are the ‘interchangeable’ or ‘baton’ cufflinks that were introduced by Cartier in the 1960s and also produced by celebrated jewellers such as André Vassort, Boucheron, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Cleverly designed with a fixed gold bar mount and a series of gemstone batons or terminals that could be swapped and changed to match the wearer’s mood, these wonderful cufflinks have become increasingly sought-after in the last couple of years.

Necklaces

A necklace is also a great idea for a Valentine’s gift for him. Ever increasing in popularity, the Google search for ‘Men’s pendant necklaces’ increased over 900% from 2021-22. For a unique and personalised gift, consider purchasing an antique or mid-century piece, and consider which metal, link design, style of clasp, and length would be your partner’s preference. As one would expect, unique links, designer attributions and heft all play a part in the intrinsic value of the piece, so choose carefully especially when buying through retail.

Whether it is a ring, pair of cufflinks, a necklace, or another piece of jewellery entirely that you treat your significant other with this Valentine’s Day, do make sure that you buy a piece that has that personal feel and sentimental value. Buying second hand and at auction are fantastic ways to procure items that are beautifully one-of-a-kind.

The jewellery market is ever-changing, and values are increasing all the time, so make sure you consider a comprehensive valuation of your items to ensure adequate cover and peace of mind. For further information on our nationwide valuation services, contact us via [email protected].

Cartier and Tiffany rocked at the Golden Globes…

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“It’s the most wonderful time of the year…” and I don’t mean Christmas. My favourite time of the year is now, for all the red carpet gowns and jewels. So many impressive pieces displayed at this year’s Golden Globes. This year, I take a look at the two usual suspects that never miss: Cartier and Tiffany & Co., both symbols of chic and glamour, using the finest craftsman and precious gems.

One of my all time favourite actresses is Jennifer Lawrence, and she was faultless with her “simple” velvet gown and diamond-set Tiffany & Co. jewels.

The necklace was composed of a series of princess-cut diamonds, suspending to the front an 11 carat diamond pear-shaped drop. Her earrings were decorated with a total of 6 carats of untreated blue sapphire and diamond surround, mounted in platinum and 18 carat yellow gold. She matched these with a diamond ring and nothing too big which could distract from the Dior clutch.

It was a big year for singer/songwriter Dua Lipa, with a nomination for Best Original Song for the Barbie movie.

She dazzled the crowds with a 1962 gold and platinum Tiffany & Co. necklace. It is set throughout with oval, pear and briolette-cut yellow beryls and brilliant-cut diamonds. A similar piece, dating from 1967, sold in June last year, 2023, at Christie’s for USD $189,000, set with approximately 86 brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing 7.00 carats.

The singer completed her look with a yellow sapphire and diamond cluster ring.

Another very talented singer/songwriter is Jon Batiste. He was superb with a few Tiffany & Co. jewels which sparkled on his Dior suit.

The necklace is from the HardWear collection. It is set throughout with fancy links, each set with brilliant-cut diamonds and mounted in 18 carat yellow gold. This necklace currently retails for £70,000. However, there are several other options retailing from £550 mounted in silver, to £215,500 set with diamonds and mounted in rose gold.

A lovely addition to the necklace was the platinum and 18 carat gold Starfish brooch by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. It is decorated with a three carat aquamarine and diamond surround. The Starfish collection ranges from silver, selling for £365, to yellow gold, retailing at £3,450.

While Tiffany & Co. draped several artists, Cartier High Jewellery was the brand of choice for actress Julianne Moore.

She wore a spectacular gold and petrified wood necklace of reptile inspiration. Composed of 57 links, each set with white and yellow diamonds.

Echoing that style of individual panels is the Panthère de Cartier necklace set with almost 2,000 white, orange, yellow and brown diamonds, totalling just under 40 carats. A truly unique piece and a statement to Cartier’s savoir-faire.

The Panthère collection has several options of bracelets, watches and necklaces.

The actor Jared Leto, usually known for taking daring fashion risks, wore a simple 18 carat white gold and diamond Panthère de Cartier necklace.

It is set with two emerald eyes, 309 diamonds, weighing a total of 3.24 carats and highlighted by calibré-cut onyx. It currently retails for £78,500.

The Panthère collection is as desirable as ever and Cartier will always be a go to jeweller for any red carpet event.