Egyptomania

The ‘Egyptomania’ of 2026 – What this trend may mean for your collections

On the 19th August 2026 a spectacular Egyptian Revival tiara that has stopped many in their tracks – dating to the Art Deco period and set throughout with banded agate, jadeite jade, hydrogrossular garnet and malachite went to auction at Elmwood’s Auction House. Formed with graduating motifs of king cobras and palmettes in polychrome enamelling, this eye-catching piece was offered with a conservative estimate of £15,000-20,000. It eventually sold for around £84,000, smashing the original estimate. The tiara has captured the market at the right time – as it seems that 2026 could well be the year of the latest ‘Egyptian Revival.’

Egyptian Revival in 2026 High Jewellery

Egyptian Revival in 2026 High Jewellery Collections

Fascinating Egypt - Van Cleef & Arpels

Earlier this summer, Van Cleef & Arpels announced the theme of their latest High Jewellery Collection – ‘Fascinating Egypt.’ “For many years, the Maison Van Cleef & Arpels, so inspired by Egypt in the 1920s has wished to prolong the story and present its own vision of this ancient heritage” explains Catherine Rénier, the company’s president and chief executive officer.

Comprising 180 creations and developed over four years, the collection features motifs such as the palmette, hieroglyphics, the Nile, archaeological fragments, pyramids, Pharaohs, and the Egyptian goddesses – paired with classic VCA savoir faire, incorporating features such as the mystery setting, exceptional gemstones, plenty of imagination and an unmatched technical craftsmanship.

Egyptian Revival on the High Street

Meanwhile, Marli New York has a highly popular Cleo line that we have seen in many of our client’s collections. The Cleo collection features pyramid shaped motifs as a nod to Cleopatra its namesake – “the original icon of strength, allure, and unapologetic grace.”

Vénus Égyptienne clip, set with white diamonds, yellow diamonds, lapis lazuli and turquoise. Inspired by the goddess Hathor, deity of the sky, love, beauty, joy, motherhood and music.
Vénus Égyptienne clip, set with white diamonds, yellow diamonds, lapis lazuli and turquoise. Inspired by the goddess Hathor, deity of the sky, love, beauty, joy, motherhood and music.
A trio of ‘Fragment’ brooches from the collection, forming echoes of hieroglyphs and paying homage to archaeological discoveries at ancient sites that so inspired the Egyptian Revivals over a century ago.
A trio of ‘Fragment’ brooches from the collection, forming echoes of hieroglyphs and paying homage to archaeological discoveries at ancient sites that so inspired the Egyptian Revivals over a century ago.

Pragnell similarly released a Cleopatra line of jewellery in the last couple of years. The collection is designed with a modern interpretation of the ‘Sha’bi’ pattern, inspired by Charle Pragnell’s own visit to the Grand Egyptian Museum in 2023 (Master of intricate gold craft, the barrel-shaped bead or ‘Sha’bi’ pattern designs used in this collection were found in the three-thousand-year-old tomb of the Eighteenth Dynasty pharaoh, Tutankhamun.. The collection ranges from £1,850 to £25,275.

Egyptian Revival at Auction

Above: The Cleo Rev Full Diamond Slip-On Necklace by Marli New York, retailing for £58,700.
Above: The Cleo Rev Full Diamond Slip-On Necklace by Marli New York, retailing for £58,700.
The Cleopatra Diamond Gold Faceted Barrel Link Mini Necklace (3.74 carats) by Pragnell, £23,100.
The Cleopatra Diamond Gold Faceted Barrel Link Mini Necklace (3.74 carats) by Pragnell, £23,100.

The bracelets above in Van Cleef & Arpel’s latest High Jewellery Collection draw direct comparisons from band bracelets dating from the Art Deco Egyptian Revival which are absolute masterpieces and as such always perform incredibly well on the open market and at retail. At the time of writing, I could not find a recent sale price – but just behold this incredible and important example by Lacloche Frères, sold at Sotheby’s in 2014 for just over $1 million.

An Art Deco Egyptian-revival platinum, diamond, and colored-stone bracelet created by Lacloche Frères around 1925
An Art Deco Egyptian-revival platinum, diamond, and colored-stone bracelet created by Lacloche Frères around 1925

Another more recent provincial auction result pointing to the strength of the market for this kind of design is this Egyptian Revival pendant with faience scarab, enamelwork and gemstones, set in 15ct gold. This colourful pendant beat its low estimate 5x over in June, selling for a £2,000 hammer.

An antique Victorian Egyptian Revival micro-mosaic scarab pendant
An antique Victorian Egyptian Revival micro-mosaic scarab pendant

So, what does this mean for collectors, and the insurance values set upon these pieces? It may well be that heirloom pieces and antique jewels from previous Egyptian Revivals – the late 19th century and Art Deco period are drastically underinsured. Whilst not the most obviously valuable to the untrained eye – these pieces are more frequently set with faience (a non-clay ceramic material made mostly of crushed quartz or sand, famous for its bright blue-green surface), enamelwork, and small coloured gemstones as the examples above – and may well have been overlooked altogether when previous valuations have taken place.

Attributed to Ernesto Pierret: Egyptian Revival gold scarab bracelet, circa 1870. Sold at Bonhams, December 2024 for £28,160.
Attributed to Ernesto Pierret: Egyptian Revival gold scarab bracelet, circa 1870. Sold at Bonhams, December 2024 for £28,160.
An Egyptian Revival enamel and gem-set fringe necklace by Carlo Giuliano, circa 1870. Sold at Bonhams in July 2025 for £14,080.
An Egyptian Revival enamel and gem-set fringe necklace by Carlo Giuliano, circa 1870. Sold at Bonhams in July 2025 for £14,080.

Our team are happy to assist all clients with updated valuations of their modern and inherited jewellery collections. Our experienced team of jewellery specialists are nationwide, and can help to provide a current valuation to protect against underinsurance.

Tiffany HardWear: Rising Prices and Rising Popularity

Tiffany HardWear: Rising Prices and Rising Popularity

Since its launch in 2017, Tiffany’s HardWear Collection has become one of the brand’s most recognisable and coveted contemporary collections.

The iconic gauge link design was inspired by Tiffany’s rich design archives, drawing directly from a unisex bracelet designed in Manhattan from 1962. Combining this historical piece, and the spirit of New York in mind, the HardWear collection was born – offering a sculptural, yet elegant addition to the brand’s offering, and a daringly different design perspective to the ergonomic lines of Peretti, vibrant decoration of Schlumberger, and unabashed colour of the Picasso collections.

Featuring strong, bold links, an iconic silhouette and a unisex appeal, this collection was designed to simultaneously express the strength of love with an enduring resilience. Now comprising the famous gauge links in bracelet, necklace, earring, ring, and watch form, the collection is further enhanced with pavé set diamond accents, South Sea pearl-set pieces and ‘ball and chain’ accents drawing inspiration from the name of the bracelet that began it all.

Lady Gaga modelling the Tiffany HardWear Collection for its launch in 2017
Lady Gaga modelling the Tiffany HardWear Collection for its launch in 2017

In its nine years as part of the Tiffany catalogue, the HardWear Collection has been spotted on celebrities such as Anya Taylor-Joy, Natalie Portman, Hailey Bieber, Scarlett Johansson, Zoë Kravitz, as well as Lady Gaga who was the face of the collection launch.

New design additions to the original collections include pavé set diamond links, titanium additions, elongated links, and even sunglasses – all, though, retain the unmistakable design DNA of the HardWear Collection.

The Tiffany HardWear Large Link Bracelet in Rose Gold with Pavé Diamonds. Retailing for £178,500.
The Tiffany HardWear Large Link Bracelet in Rose Gold with Pavé Diamonds. Retailing for £178,500.

The Value of Tiffany HardWear Jewellery

The Tiffany HardWear Collection ranges from £282 for a pair of sunglasses, or £285 for a pair of silver Ball earrings in 8mm, and sweeps all the way to £255,000 for the impressive Graduated Link Necklace in White Gold with Diamonds.

The Tiffany HardWear Ball Earrings in Silver, 8mm. Retailing for £285.
The Tiffany HardWear Graduated Link Necklace in White Gold with Diamonds. Retailing at £255,000.

As with many of the jewellery houses, Tiffany tends to increase prices over time, with these increases ranging from one to a few per year. The latest two increases have happened in relatively quick succession, in both October 2025 and January 2026, with the retail prices ranging anywhere from 3-20% accumulatively over just three months. Unfortunately, owing to rising raw material costs as well as other factors, the gold HardWear designs have experienced back-to-back increases in the last few years.

The Tiffany HardWear 18ct yellow gold Micro Link necklace has seen a 10% price increase since October 2025. This piece now retails at £8,200.
The Tiffany HardWear 18ct yellow gold Micro Link necklace has seen a 10% price increase since October 2025. This piece now retails at £8,200.
The Tiffany HardWear 18ct white gold diamond Small Link Ring has seen a 7.7% price increase since October 2025. This piece now retails at £6,125.
The Tiffany HardWear 18ct white gold diamond Small Link Ring has seen a 7.7% price increase since October 2025. This piece now retails at £6,125.

With these continued price hikes affecting the Tiffany HardWear Collection – gold mid-range pieces in particular – we would recommend regular valuations of this jewellery to ensure adequate cover, and a like-for-like replacement in the event of a loss. There is no doubt that this collection is hugely popular and will remain in the Tiffany catalogue for years to come – indeed recently, LVMH cited the Hardwear collection as one of the reasons for its double-digit growth for the business. With this in mind, we would like to remind clients with pieces older than 2-3 years to look at a re-valuation of their collection to avoid under-insurance of these ever-increasing fine jewellery pieces.

For further information on our jewellery valuation services, from our team of nationwide specialists, do get in touch via [email protected], or call 01883 722 736.

how to tell silver from silver plate

Not all marks are hallmarks: How to tell silver from silver plate

If you want to know how to tell silver from silver plate, you are not alone. Many clients confidently separate their “silver” from their plated wares, only to discover that some of the pieces are not solid silver at all. The marks can look convincing, but appearance alone is not proof of precious metal.

It is easy to see how the mistakes occur; both hallmarked silver, and silver plate marks can appear similar. Both can include shields, letters, symbols and maker’s marks, even pseudo hallmarks that look convincingly official. However, whilst they may appear similar they tell very different stories.

The crucial thing is to be able to spot the differences with confidence and understand why the superficially convincing ‘hallmark’ may be a plate mark posturing as it’s more valuable counterpart.

From the mid-18th century onwards, silver plating became increasingly sophisticated. Manufacturers wanted plated goods to look luxurious and respectable, and by the 19th century the rise of an affluent middle class created a strong demand for glamorous tableware at an affordable price. There is therefore a wealth of both silver and silver plate. Silver plate appearing as Old Sheffield Plate, electrotype and electroplate, including a proliferation of electroplated nickel silver (EPNS) as methods of electroplating became better and more sophisticated.

To the unwary observer a row of symbols and letters stamped into metal in the same manner as a hallmark might look and feel authentic. But the authority of a hallmark comes not from appearance but from regulation, and once you understand the makeup of hallmarks the process of recognition becomes much easier.

British silver hallmarks form one of the most tightly controlled silver marking systems in the world. With minor variations a full hallmark will contain the following elements:-

Silver hallmarks

The Standard Mark

  • Lion Passant – A lion in profile walking left to right, one front paw raised and tail curled. This confirms the item is sterling silver (92.5% purity). 
  • Britannia – Occasionally used instead, indicating a higher fineness of 95.8%. (When I was a junior trainee, I remembered this because 95.8 was and still is, conveniently, the same frequency as Capital Radio.)

The Assay Office Mark

British assay office marks include:

  • London – Leopard’s head
  • Birmingham – Anchor
  • Sheffield – Crown (later a rose after the Queen’s silver jubilee in 1977))
  • Glasgow – Tree, fish, and bell
  • Edinburgh – Three-towered castle (with a thistle as the standard mark)
  • Dublin – Figure of Hibernia (with a harp as the standard mark)
Assay Office Marks
Assay Office Marks

“Assay” comes from the French essayer, meaning “to test”. This mark guarantees that the metal meets the stated standard. In the United Kingdom, wherever gold, silver, platinum or palladium are sold it is a legal requirement under the Hallmarking Act 1973 to display a specifically approved notice.

The Date letter

A single letter that changes annually, with differing fonts, cases and shield shapes.

These used to be particular to each Assay Office but were standardised in 1975.

Various silver marks and trademarks associated with Maxfield & Sons.
Various silver marks and trademarks associated with Maxfield & Sons.

The maker’s mark or sponsor’s mark

Usually initials registered to a specific silversmith or company. Together, these marks form a regulated and coherent system. They may also include a monarch’s head, known as the duty mark. 

Occasionally, special optional marks are added, for example to commemorate the Millennium or The Queen’s Golden Jubilee.

UK commemorative hallmarks
UK commemorative hallmarks

Silver plate on the other hand does not have regulatory marks. They are manufacturer’s marks and symbols, but do not indicate metal content.

Common characteristics of silver plate marks include:

  • Decorative symbols (for example, crowns, stars, animals)
  • Multiple pseudo-shields
  • Words or abbreviations indicating plating, including A1 and EPNS
  • Lack of the lion passant

The date letter trap is where many get caught out; the date letter in silver appears in a distinctive font and shield shape that changes with each cycle of letters. For example, a lowercase “g” in a pointed shield is not the same year as a lowercase “g” in a rounded shield, even though the letter is identical.

Many plated wares include a single letter that looks like a date letter but is not part of any official dating system. These letters may:

  • Represent a pattern number
  • Indicate a quality grade
  • Simply be decorative

Some companies, Elkington being a prime example, had their own regime of marks, which included a system for dates represented in a lozenge; so it can be possible to date silver plate, but not in the same manner as sterling silver.

There are certain marks that are particularly misleading on silver plate. These include

  • Crowned symbols – often mistaken for Sheffield or London marks
  • Multiple marks in a row – designed to resemble a hallmark group
  • Pseudo-animals – easily confused with the lion passant at a glance. However, none of these will ever be a lion passant in the correct stance and proportions used by assay offices.
A set of hallmarks and markings on an antique silver-plated item
A set of hallmarks and markings on an antique silver-plated item

Practical tips for spotting the difference between silver and silver plate

Unless it is Scottish or Irish silver look for the lion passant first. No lion means it is unlikely to be English silver.

Remember that hallmarks tell a clear story: maker, place, year, purity.

And finally, examine your piece. Silver plate often shows wear with copper or nickel alloy showing through in places.

Once you have established that an item is silver how do you decode the hallmarks? Not so long ago, every silver valuer carried a copy of a pocket ‘Bradbury’s’, the book of hallmarks. It was a professional necessity, but also a quiet point of pride. Much like a Barbour jacket in the 1980s, the more dog-eared, scuffed, and worn it was, the more kudos it had. A battered Bradbury’s suggested years of dedicated use.

Today, identifying hallmarks is far easier. There are numerous free online resources where both hallmarks and makers’ marks can be checked quickly and reliably. My personal favourite is
https://www.silvermakersmarks.co.uk/index.htm

The importance of distinguishing silver from silver plate has never been more important. With silver bullion prices at unprecedented highs, apparently small differences visually can be huge differences financially. These two tea trays demonstrate the point well. One is a silver-plated tray currently on sale with 1St Dibs for £421, the other a silver tray from A&C Silver is ticketed at £14,450.

Solid silver tea on sale at A&C Silver for £14,450
Solid silver tea on sale at A&C Silver for £14,450
A silver plated tray on sale with 1st Dibs for £421
A silver plated tray on sale with 1st Dibs for £421

In silver, as in life, looks can deceive; what matters is knowing what’s really in your hands.

Birmingham Date Letters
Birmingham Date Letters

Wuthering Heights Jewellery: Antique Pieces and Modern Interpretations

This year’s hotly anticipated Valentine’s Day blockbuster is upon us! Something our specialists have paid particular notice to has been the jewellery worn in the run-up to the film, at previews, interviews and press engagements. With film preview tours becoming much more thematic in styling, we are delighted that this has now extended to the jewellery worn in the promotion of the film, with antique, sentimental and storied pieces on display. Here are some of our highlights:

Brontë Hair Bracelet

Significantly, Margot Robbie wore a replica of Charlotte Brontë’s hairwork and garnet memorial bracelet, woven with Anne and Emily’s hair. Housed at the Brontë Parsonage Museum, this sentimental piece was painstakingly replicated by Haworth-based Wye Weaving, and formed the inspiration for her hairwork dress by Dilara Findikoglu.

A replica of Charlotte Brontë’s hairwork and garnet memorial bracelet, woven with Anne and Emily’s hair.
A replica of Charlotte Brontë’s hairwork and garnet memorial bracelet, woven with Anne and Emily’s hair.

Taj Mahal Diamond Necklace

Fitting for a Hollywood romance film (however gothic) – Margot Robbie wore the historic Taj Mahal diamond necklace. Set with a central heart shaped diamond, inscribed with Persian text Love Is Everlasting, this significant stone was believed to have been gifted by Mughal Emperor Jahangir to his wife Nur Jahan in the early 17th century. It passed to his son, Shah Jahan, who famously built the Taj Mahal in memory of his wife. Fast forward three hundred years, the diamond was set by Cartier and purchased by Richard Burton as a gift to Elizabeth Taylor for her 40th birthday in 1972. A deeply storied and highly romantic piece, it is not without controversy, and sold at Christie’s in 2011 for $8 million which was rescinded – resulting in a law suit between Christies and Elizabeth Taylor’s estate.

The Taj Mahal Diamond Necklace by Cartier, sold in 2011 for $8 million.
The Taj Mahal Diamond Necklace by Cartier, sold in 2011 for $8 million.
Margot Robbie at the Wuthering Heights World Premiere

The Duchess of Devonshire’s Cartier Opal Tiara/Necklace

Director Emerald Fennell (daughter of jewellery designer Theo Fennell) wore a spectacular black opal and diamond necklace by Cartier, loaned by Sotheby’s and featuring in their upcoming auction. This piece was commissioned by Lady Mary Cecil as a tiara for King George VI’s coronation in 1937. Lady Mary went on to become the Duchess of Devonshire just one year later. The piece was on display last year as part of the V&A’s Cartier Exhibition, but has not been worn in pubic in over 70 years, and is estimated at £700,000 – £1,000,000. Following Bonhams’ 2025 sale of the Cartier Astor Tiara for £889,400 it will be interesting to see the result for this significant piece.

Cartier Black Opal and Diamond Tiara, estimated at £700,000-1,000,000
Director Emerald Fennell

Cece Jewellery

Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi commissioned matching signet rings from Cece Jewellery to commemorate their roles. With enamel skeleton detailing, and the book’s famous line “Whatever our souls are made of, his and mine are the same…”

Cece Jewellery personalised signet rings, from £10,000.
Cece Jewellery personalised signet rings, from £10,000.
Cece Jewellery personalised signet rings, from £10,000.

Jessica McCormack

During the run-up to the premiere, Margot wore a few pairs of Jessica McCormack earrings, the antique inspired ‘button back’ and ‘gypset’ settings worked particularly well with the Gothic Victorian inspired styling of the film.

Robbie also wore a pair of heart shaped ruby gypset earrings by Jessica McCormack, retailing at £6,750, a pair of diamond and pearl cut-down earrings, retailing at £6,000, and a custom-made pair of garnet, pearl and diamond drop earrings.

Diamond and pearl cut-down earrings retailing at £6,000.
Heart shaped ruby gypset earrings by Jessica McCormack retailing at £6,750.
Heart shaped ruby gypset earrings by Jessica McCormack retailing at £6,750.
Custom made garnet, pearl and diamond drop earrings.
Custom made garnet, pearl and diamond drop earrings.

Barron London

Creating the soundtrack for the film, Charlie XCX was not to be outdone with her jewellery. She attended the premiere wearing exquisite jewels sourced from Barron London, including a pair of Burmese sapphire and diamond earrings in platinum, and a 6.02ct old mine cut diamond ring. These remarkable gems were paired with a custom pink gown by Erdem.

Burmese Sapphire and Diamond Earrings from Barron
Burmese Sapphire and Diamond Earrings from Barron London
Charlie XCX at The Wuthering Heights Premiere

To arrange a jewellery valuation, call us on 01883 722736 or email us at [email protected].

 

The risks of unspecified jewellery

The Risks of Unspecified Jewellery

Unspecified Jewellery is becoming more of a concern when we are conducting valuations as it is mostly overlooked by people in their jewellery boxes and forgotten about when it comes to their insurance policies.

With the rise of laboratory grown diamonds found on the market, political uncertainty and sanctions applied by and on various countries, the prices of natural diamonds have taken a tumble. However, it would be naïve to consider that the price tag of these precious gems has not increased in the last 5, 10 or 20 years. From bread and milk to diamonds and gold, no product has escaped from an increased price tag.

If you were lucky enough to get engaged some ten years ago, you may have purchased a diamond three-stone ring, such as the below ring mounted in platinum and totalling 2.50 carats of diamond, for a price tag of £4,000. Having slowly climbed to £6,500 in 2020, in today’s market, that same ring would cost £25,000 to replace.

Diamond three-stone ring
Diamond three-stone ring

With many insurance policies requiring items over £20,000 to be itemised you probably don’t realise the cost today of the ring that is on your finger but would be very disappointed if you couldn’t replace it in the event of a loss.


Equally this diamond line bracelet by Tiffany & Co., set with a total of 5 carats, would have retailed for £5,000 in 2010.

Diamond line bracelet by Tiffany & Co.
Diamond line bracelet by Tiffany & Co.

Today, Its equivalent from the Tiffany Victoria range, set with 4.25 carats of diamonds, retails for £30,700 – again over the single item on your insurance policy.

Unspecified Jewellery - Tiffany bracelet by Tiffany & Co
Tiffany bracelet by Tiffany & Co

Whether you own a pair of diamond earstuds, a bracelet or a ring, and have had the opportunity to wear theses for the last few years but haven’t thought to update your insurance valuations, you could be at risk of being under insured as the prices of precious materials continues to rise as a reaction to geo-politics. In the worst-case scenario, you could find you are not insured atall.

The gold price is currently £3,456.49 (02.02.2026) a troy ounce in 2015 this was £716.37 – so it doesn’t take a genius to work out the prices of jewellery in the last 10 years has increased in value.

At Doerr Dallas Valuations, we are currently recommending clients update their valuations if they haven’t been valued in the last 12-18 months with the gold price being at its highest level in years and if you have never had a valuation please call us to find out more – it doesn’t cost anything for us to send you a proposal but count the pieces in your jewellery box first!

Pandora Jewellery

Pandora Eschews Silver in Favour of Platinum Plating

Pandora Eschews Silver in Favour of Platinum Plating

When the world’s largest jewellery brand by volume speaks up, we have to listen. Earlier this month, Pandora announced that they would be introducing platinum-plated EVERSHINE jewellery, in a bid to reduce their reliance upon silver. In the wake of soaring and volatile silver prices, Pandora hopes to navigate the realities of raw material costs, and present a tarnish-resistant and hypoallergenic alternative.

Pandora Barrel Clasp Snake Chain Bracelet

Pandora Barrel Clasp Snake Chain Bracelet

In a survey with their customers, 78% regarded platinum as a precious metal, compared with 69% thinking the same of silver – they did not in their figures, appear to quiz their customers on their perception of platinum plating. The move to plating will reduce their silver jewellery catalogue from 60 to 20% by 2028.

Platinum plating is not something widely seen in the jewellery industry at present, Montblanc use platinum plated fittings in their pens (clips, caps) although often paired with silver casings, so Pandora’s move will see a redefinition of this plating for jewellery items. 

A standard silver Pandora Barrel Clasp Snake Chain Bracelet currently costs £55 and typically weighs between 13-15 grams. Based on last week’s high of £2.38 per gram, up to 68% of the retail cost was held in the weight of the item, let alone accounting for profit margins, production costs and overheads. On the open market, these bracelets typically fetch anywhere from £10-15 at auction, demonstrating an 80% drop.

Tiffany's Elsa Peretti Bone Cuff

Tiffany’s Elsa Peretti Bone Cuff

However, with more premium silver jewellery, such as Tiffany’s Elsa Peretti or Hardwear collections, these percentages remained lower and therefore weathered the storm – the value being in the name, design and quality. The Elsa Peretti Bone Cuff weighs approximately 55g, and so last week the raw materials factored just 7.5% of the item’s retail value. On the open market last year these fetched from £700-1,400, retaining up to 80% of its retail price. Similarly, a pair of Hardwear Ball Stud earrings factored 4.2% at last week’s high. Again, at auction these earrings retained 56% of their retail value.

Georg Jensen Torun bangle

Georg Jensen Torun bangle

Similarly, Georg Jensen designs such as the Torun bangle see value retention in the middle market. This bracelet retails for £350, and weighs approximately 13g. During the silver spikes, around 8% of this retail price was covered by the silver weight. Similarly, on the open market, this bangle retained around 68% of its retail value.

So, will we see many jewellery brands follow suit and introduce platinum-plated jewellery as a response to silver uncertainty? Is plating the answer? In terms of value retention we would argue not. At the lower end of the market plating may be even more widely adopted instead of sterling silver, particularly with laboratory grown diamond retailers and affordable jewellery lines, but we would stress the enduring value, quality and appeal of signed, silver jewellery. This holds its value and is more insulated to market changes owing to its enduring demand, design and prestige.

Valentine’s Day Luxury Gift Guide

Love is in the air, and this year, we’re taking romance to a whole new level! Whether you’re celebrating a long-term partner, a new flame, a friendship or yourself, our Valentine’s Luxury Gift Guide is here to help you find the wow factor.

Here is our selection of breathtaking pieces that do more than just dazzle; they are timeless investments that pair high-end elegance with lasting value.

Solange Azagury-Partridge

In the quiet, Victorian thoroughfares of West London sits a boutique that feels less like a traditional jeweller and more like a surrealist dreamscape. This is the home of Solange Azagury-Partridge, a designer who has spent over three decades proving that fine jewellery doesn’t have to be serious, but it must be spectacular.

From her cult-classic Hotlips rings to her tenure as the Creative Director of Boucheron, Solange has carved a niche as the “thinking woman’s jeweller.” Her work is defined by Chromance a term she coined to describe her deep, romantic obsession with colour.

Solange’s career didn’t start with a formal apprenticeship; it started with a kiss. In 1987, she designed her own engagement ring: a large, rough diamond perched precariously on a bold gold band. It was a rejection of the pristine aesthetic of the time.

By 1995, she launched her most famous creation: The Hotlips Ring, a plump, enamelled pout. The British Red version sits proudly in the V&A’s permanent collection.

A perfect valentines day gift, Hotlips by Solange offers these fabulous rings in silver and gold and of course vibrant colours. They would make the perfect Valentine’s Day gift.

Solange Hotlips in 18ct gold retails for £4,300
Solange Hotlips in 18ct gold retails for £4,300
Solange Love Bombe ring featuring rubies retails for £9,600
Solange Love Bombe ring featuring rubies retails for £9,600

Van Cleef & Arpels

VCA is legendary for its beautiful jewellery designs. The Frivole collection is the house’s modern floral masterpiece.

Launched in 2003, the Frivole line is a poetic tribute to nature, characterised by beautiful gem set adorned flowers with heart-shaped petals. Forget traditional flowers this year, the go to is VCA Frivole collection.

They also offer examples set with Pigeon-Blood Rubies & Emeralds, While the classic collection features diamonds, modern variations frequently come set in rose and yellow gold

This Frivole ring with 8 flowers featuring rubies and emeralds retails for £11,700.

Another classic, the Between the Finger rings by VCA, these rings feature two floral motifs that appear to “float” between the fingers, connected by a hidden band.

An 18ct gold Frivole necklace set with 9 flowers retails for £13,800
An 18ct gold Frivole necklace set with 9 flowers retails for £13,800
This Frivole ring with 8 flowers featuring rubies and emeralds retails for £11,700
This Frivole ring with 8 flowers featuring rubies and emeralds retails for £11,700
Between the Finger rings by VCA. Retails for £5,800
Between the Finger rings by VCA. Retails for £5,800

Graff

Not traditionally known for watches, Graff’s ladies’ timepieces represent the pinnacle of jewellery that also tell the time. Known as the “King of Diamonds,” Laurence Graff’s influence is evident in signature collections like the Butterfly, where marquise and pear-shaped diamonds are meticulously set to mimic fluttering wings, and the Spiral, which features hypnotic, concentric circles of pavé set stones.

For those seeking the ultimate in exclusivity, Graff’s High Jewellery Secret Watches such as the Princess Butterfly are fine jewellery timepieces. Functional and beautiful. Classic Butterfly Diamond and Ruby watch on an alligator skin strap retails for £132,000.

Classic Butterfly Diamond and Ruby watch on an alligator skin strap retails for £132,000
Classic Butterfly Diamond and Ruby watch on an alligator skin strap retails for £132,000
The Princess Butterfly from Graff.
The Princess Butterfly from Graff.

Rolex

The new Rolex Land-Dweller watch, unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025 is a sports model reminiscent of the 1970s Oyster quartz featuring a Flat Jubilee bracelet that flows seamlessly into a restyled, barrel-shaped Oyster case.

Inside, the Land-Dweller has a striking honeycomb motif dial and exceptionally slim profile of just 9.7 mm. Available in 36 mm and 40 mm sizes, the collection is offered in white Rolesor (steel and white gold), 18ct Everose gold, and 950 platinum with the signature ice-blue dial.

The diamond and gold Rolex Land Dweller retails for £82,450
The diamond and gold Rolex Land Dweller retails for £82,450
Land-Dweller 40 Oyster, in Oystersteel and white gold Reference 127334 Retails for £13,700
Land-Dweller 40 Oyster, in Oystersteel and white gold Reference 127334 Retails for £13,700

Hermès

Hermès handbags are the definitive benchmark of luxury with the Birkin and Kelly handmade by a single artisan using the house’s signature saddle-stitching technique, a process that can take up to 25 hours per bag. They are made from premium leathers like Togo and Epsom, or rare exotics such as Niloticus crocodile, these bags are widely considered as the most sort after fashion accessory and investment opportunity at the same time. Due to strictly controlled production and high global demand, most Hermès models not only retain their retail value but often appreciate on the secondary market.

With the Birkin and Kelly being very hard to get hold of, there are other designs available to purchase directly from the Hermès website but be quick they do have limited availability. At the time this article was written the Hermès Poche Cliguets handbag was available to purchase in Etoupe Swift calf skin leather with palladium hardware for £5,590.

Hermes Poche Cliguets handbag available to purchase in Etoupe Swift calf skin leather with palladium hardware for £5590.
Hermes Poche Cliguets handbag available to purchase in Etoupe Swift calf skin leather with palladium hardware for £5590.

The perfect Valentine’s gift deserves the perfect protection. Beyond the initial spark of the ‘big reveal,’ the most thoughtful gesture is ensuring your new assets are correctly insured. Whether it’s a rare timepiece, a designer handbag, or a work of art, Doerr Dallas Valuations offers professional valuation services to give you and your loved ones total security against the unexpected.

Victoria Beckham Engagement Rings

In the Spotlight: Victoria Beckham’s Jewellery

Featuring in our spotlight article today is none other than Victoria Beckham. With a fantastic collection of fine jewellery and wristwatches, Victoria is a trailblazer in her manner of collecting and impeccable style. Outnumbering even the iconic Elizabeth Taylor in engagement rings, Victoria Beckham reputedly has fifteen engagement rings from twenty-six years of marriage. We have listed below a few of our standout pieces from this wonderful collection of significant stone-set rings, and we would love to hear your favourites!

Victoria Beckham’s first engagement ring:

Victoria’s first engagement ring featured a 3 carat marquise cut diamond in a two claw yellow gold setting. Estimated to be valued around £65,000

Victoria’s first engagement ring featured a 3 carat marquise cut diamond in a two claw yellow gold setting.

Estimated to be valued around £65,000

Victoria Beckham’s fifth engagement ring (2005)

One of her rings most frequently seen is a phenomenal 17 carat pear cut diamond ring with a pavé set diamond band. Estimated to be valued around £4 million.

One of her rings most frequently seen is a phenomenal 17 carat pear cut diamond ring with a pavé set diamond band.

Estimated to be valued around £4 million.

Victoria Beckham’s seventh engagement ring (2007)

Estimated to be valued around £3.5 million.

Celebrating the beauty of coloured gemstones, Victoria added this 25 carat emerald and diamond cluster ring to her collection in 2007. The sheer size and rich hue of this impressive stone makes it one of her most valuable pieces and certainly one of the most standout.

Estimated to be valued around £3.5 million.

Victoria Beckham’s tenth engagement ring (2010)

Set in a simple four claw setting with a pavé diamond band, this sapphire certainly has those velvety tones that are so prized in the most valuable Kashmir sapphires. Estimated to be valued around £5 million.

What’s not to adore the beautiful colour of this 20 carat sapphire, gifted in 2010. Set in a simple four claw setting with a pavé diamond band, this sapphire certainly has those velvety tones that are so prized in the most valuable Kashmir sapphires.

Estimated to be valued around £5 million.

Victoria Beckham’s fifteenth engagement ring (2018)

Reportedly Victoria’s latest engagement ring features an 8 carat square cut canary yellow diamond on a pavé set diamond band. Showcasing her love of colourful gems in the best way, this fancy coloured diamond ring has to be one of our favourites in her collection. Estimated to be valued around £2 million.

Reportedly Victoria’s latest engagement ring features an 8 carat square cut canary yellow diamond on a pavé set diamond band. Showcasing her love of colourful gems in the best way, this fancy coloured diamond ring has to be one of our favourites in her collection.

Estimated to be valued around £2 million.

Victoria’s collection of engagement rings not only focus on stones of a significant size and quality, but she plays around with cuts and shapes. With only one round brilliant cut in the lineup of fifteen, she is a champion of the fancy cut. Victoria’s other engagement rings, not listed here include a diamond eternity band, a 10-15 carat emerald cut diamond, a 7 carat pink champagne diamond halo ring, a 12 carat yellow diamond ring, a 25 carat emerald and diamond cluster ring, a 15 carat emerald cut diamond ring by Chopard, a 15-20 carat ruby and diamond cluster ring, a 20 carat sapphire ring, a 7 carat oval pink diamond ring, a diamond three stone ring, a moonstone and ‘salt and pepper’ diamond ring, and an 8 carat cushion cut diamond ring – quite the collection!

To arrange a valuation of your jewellery items, email us at [email protected] or call us on 01883 722736.

Valuation Trends and Risks to Know in 2026

Valuation Trends and Risks to Know in 2026

Valuation Trends are shifting as we move into 2026, shaped by changing collector behaviour, evolving tastes and ongoing volatility across global markets. From jewellery, watches and handbags to art, rare books, silver and collectables, understanding where values are moving and why has never been more important. In this article, our specialists share their insight into the key valuation trends to watch in 2026 and explain what they mean for owners, collectors and those responsible for ensuring assets are accurately insured.

Jewellery

Liz Bailey, Jewellery, Watch & Silver Specialist

“As we have seen in 2025, the price of gold has reached record breaking levels and I can see no slowing of this trend into 2026. With a near 60% price increase last year, it will be crucially important to maintain regular valuations. We would expect to see a stabilisation in the market for natural diamonds, particularly steady in round brilliants under 2ct, and price spikes continuing for elongated fancy shapes and unique cuts over 2ct. In the gemstone market, a continued and constant premium placed on natural, saturated and high-quality gemstones of a favourable origin, which may prove increasingly difficult to source on the international market. Antique, signed, and unique pieces to remain in high demand, and designer price hikes to only push replacement values for insurance. If I could urge clients one thing for their jewellery collection this year, please ensure that you have a comprehensive and up to date valuation that accounts for these market factors – inadequate cover is not a trend that we want to see in 2026!“

9.86ct Elongated Old Cut Diamond Solitaire Ring. Hancocks, POA.
9.86ct Elongated Old Cut Diamond Solitaire Ring. Hancocks, POA.

Collectibles & Memorabilia

Stephanie Connell, Senior Valuer & Collector Specialist

“With a new generation evident in the market, acquiring pieces coveted in their youth I anticipate continuing growth in modern collectables. The trend towards objects from the early 2000s is gaining momentum with record prices recently in sports trading cards, and movie memorabilia from this period. With 2026 being a World Cup year football memorabilia may also be one to watch.”

Rare Books & Comics

Richard Fattorini, Rare Books & Manuscripts, Historical Photographs and Maps Consultant

“In 2026 I expect the rare book market to remain resilient and quietly buoyant with steady growth rather than a speculative boom. Auction activity continues to expand, driven by online platforms and new online auction houses specialising in rare books and works on paper that have widened access for collectors. Top-tier works selling for £100,000+ with strong provenance, historical importance or exceptional condition are likely to hold or increase in value. By contrast, more ordinary collectible titles may see flatter prices. A younger, more diverse generation of buyers in the 35-50 age bracket is reshaping tastes, with increased interest in genre fiction, science and books that tell compelling stories rather than simply fitting a traditional canon.

In 2025 the global top 10 books and works on paper sold at auction were dominated by Americana and American sports cards, together with a first Superman comic from 1939, an 18th century Mughal manuscript of an epic based on the Shahnama, and one of four copies of William Blake’s Songs of Experience (1793).

The results demonstrate that there are buyers out there for the best items, and collecting has never been easier with so many online platforms. The challenge for booksellers and auctioneers in 2026, as always, is finding the great material to meet the demands of collectors.”

WILLIAM BLAKE (LONDON 1757-1827) The Tyger, from: Songs of Experience. Sold for £228,600 in December 2025.
WILLIAM BLAKE (LONDON 1757-1827) The Tyger, from: Songs of Experience. Sold for £228,600 in December 2025.

Luxury Handbags

Helen Doyle, Jewellery, Watch & Handbag Specialist

“In 2026, the resurgence of the tote is a defining trend. These large handbags have become essential for fashionistas who need a single bag that they can use for the gym, take to the office or on a weekend shopping trip. Chanel continues to offer a great variety of shopping totes, while the Louis Vuitton Neverfull remains a staple and is available in various sizes and designs. Other brands leading this movement are The Row and Saint Laurent, for those seeking ultimate luxury, the bold Hermes Birkin 40 is the standout choice for a high-end tote. These designs can be priced anywhere from £1500 up to £55,000.

2026 also sees a significant revival of old classics, as several iconic handbags from previous decades return to the spotlight. At Celine, Michael Rider has reintroduced Phoebe Philo’s classic Phantom handbag, adding a “smiley” zip to lean into its long-standing nickname. Likewise, we are seeing refreshed iterations of the Lady Dior and the Fendi Baguette, alongside a sharp rise in the popularity of the Chloé Paddington and the Balenciaga City bag.

In terms of aesthetics and materials, specific hardware and textures define the 2026 look. Chains have become a dominant feature across many collections; while Chanel has historically been central to this style, brands such as Ferragamo, Valentino, and Stella McCartney are now heavily incorporating chain details into their newest designs. Additionally, the tactile trends of 2025 are proving to have staying power. Shearling remains a popular choice for added texture, while the colour palette for the year is grounded in sophisticated neutral tones and rich brown suedes.”

Limited edition Hermès Rock HAC Birkin 40 handbag
Limited edition Hermès Rock HAC Birkin 40 handbag
Celine Flat Cabas New Luggage
Celine Flat Cabas New Luggage
Chanel 25 Small Handbag in black crumpled shearling sheepskin and gold-tone metal.
Chanel 25 Small Handbag in black crumpled shearling sheepskin and gold-tone metal.

Silver

Jenny Knott, Jewellery & Silver Specialist

“If you’ve been watching silver at all, it feels a little like observing the quiet underdog of the precious-metals family suddenly step into the spotlight. The reliable, understated sibling has started to make the headlines, although it’s not a completely straightforward story.

Over the past five years, silver has shifted from a relatively modest performer to one of the standout commodities in global markets. The spot price – the price at which sterling silver is traded – more than doubled between 2021 and 2025, reaching £50–£60 per ounce by the end of 2025 and then peaking at £73 per ounce last week. By historical standards, this is extraordinary, even when set against previous market surges.

There is, however, a more disconcerting side to the story. While silver’s financial prominence has grown, its role as a domestic commodity, for example, in flatware, tea sets and decorative pieces, has continued to weaken. These uses once formed a central part of silver’s cultural cachet but rising prices and changing tastes have led consumers to step back from buying some traditional silverware.

For those who already own silver, this shift has had dramatic consequences. The intrinsic value of household silver has risen sharply, although this is partly offset by dealers being forced to cut their margins. Put bluntly, a single silver table fork is now likely to contain around £140 in silver value alone.

Therefore, what was a relatively quiet market until around 2023 has become strikingly dynamic. The gains seen in 2025 and early 2026 would once have seemed almost unimaginable outside the gold market. The result is a fascinating intersection of macroeconomic forces and cultural change, making silver one of the most compelling commodities to watch.”

GERALD BENNEY: a silver pitcher London 1967, also stamped GERALD BENNEY, LONDON. Sold for £3,570
GERALD BENNEY: a silver pitcher London 1967, also stamped GERALD BENNEY, LONDON. Sold for £3,570
Our Choice – Elsa Peretti Tiffany & Co, Medium Bone Cuff in Sterling Silver. £1,925
Elsa Peretti Tiffany & Co, Medium Bone Cuff in Sterling Silver. £1,925

Watches

Alastair Meiklejon, Senior Valuer & Watch Specialist

“In 2026 the watch market has reached the ‘calmly tidying up’ era….prices are well off the post-pandemic peak (about 33% down), but they’ve stopped face-planting at a rate of knots and even crept up 5%(ish) over the last year, but this is only in some markets.

Many watch retailers January 2026 updates back that up – the “Overall Market Index rose +1.1% in December 2025, with Rolex +0.6%”not exactly fireworks, but a lot steadier than 2022–23 vibes when some people were crying into their watch boxes.

Where it still gets spicy is the ‘coloured dial tax’, especially on Rolex. For example, secondary market currently puts the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 (124300) at £6500 market vs £4750 retail, so still over list.
And the brighter variants are another level – the yellow dial is £12,500, while the celebration turquoise is £11,500 – so yes, the market’s cooled, but the right dial still makes people forget what retail means.”

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 Green Ref 124300

Contemporary Art

Jonathan Horwich, Contemporary Art Specialist

“Looking ahead to 2026, you can expect a continued and growing focus on female artists at auction. This spans all periods, from contemporary practitioners through to Old Masters and 19th-century European painters. Demand is no longer confined to a single category, and this broader interest is already reflected in stronger and more consistent prices.

There is also sustained momentum behind African and regional African art. While figurative work has dominated in recent years, attention is shifting towards abstract painting. This is bringing a wave of new artists to market, supported by increased institutional and collector interest. Given the depth and quality of material available, this area is likely to remain a key growth sector, with valuation levels continuing to evolve as the market matures.”

Amoako Boafo (Ghanaian, born 1984) Self-Portrait 2019 (framed). Sold for £102,000
Amoako Boafo (Ghanaian, born 1984) Self-Portrait 2019 (framed). Sold for £102,000

Antique Furniture

Alastair Meiklejon, Senior Valuer & Watch Specialist

“In 2026, antique furniture is a simple equation – the headline pieces still go bananas, while the everyday stuff stays more price-sensitive. Last year gave us a perfect top end vs. normal world contrast – J.R.R. Tolkien’s Merton College desk made £330,200 at Christie’s which I wrote about not so long ago, and was pure provenance power. And in the broader furniture-as-trophy bracket, François-Xavier Lalanne’s Hippopotame Bar hit $31.4m at Sotheby’s in December 2025, whilst not exactly antique furniture, it does indicate that market changing and becoming just as important…

At the other side of the market, though, it’s much more selective.

Victorian sideboards, mixed-condition dining sets, and ‘perfectly nice’ brown case furniture can still be surprisingly attainable because buyers are picky….

Where people will stretch is for the right, unmolested examples – original surfaces, honest wear, good colour, and clean provenance. Major auction houses these days literally frame desirability around provenance and patina – and collectors are widely wary of heavy refinishing because it strips character and can dent value. So, clients should take note that actually, that stain from 50 years ago, might not have been as bad as imagined….”

A George III mahogany serpentine commode attributed to Thomas Chippendale (1718-1779). Sold for £44,000

With valuation trends moving quickly across multiple markets, regular professional valuations remain the simplest way to stay informed and properly protected. If you would like advice or need an updated valuation, get in touch with our team to arrange a valuation.

Vogue’s Five Jewellery ‘Trends’ of 2026 – Worth the Investment or a Passing Phase?

British Vogue has spoken, late last year an article was published outlining the five ‘major’ jewellery trends that Vogue is predicting for 2026. We have cast our eye over these fashionable trends straight from the runway, and provided suggestions of pieces that may already be in your collection, or prudent purchases that will continue to hold value in the coming years, and of course – we couldn’t resist adding our own forecasted trends for the year ahead.

Bold Jewellery Over Stacking

Vogue’s Choice – Dries Van Noten Embellished Pendant Necklace. £595 MyTheresa.
Vogue’s Choice – Dries Van Noten Embellished Pendant Necklace. £595 MyTheresa.
Our Choice – Coral jade and diamond bird earrings, Hannams Auctioneers, estimated at £300-500 (6th-9th January)
Our Choice – Coral jade and diamond bird earrings, Hannams Auctioneers, estimated at £300-500 (6th-9th January)

According to the Vogue article, bold and sculptural pieces worn singularly are set to overtake the previous trends of layering necklaces and stacking rings. ‘Atmospheric’ pieces, bold in proportion, design and colour are the key for adding life to minimalist styled clothing. In the search for bold, statement jewellery at a reasonable price, I would always recommend turning to the auction catalogues. On the hunt for a ‘coral’ comparable I found these charming bird earrings – certainly a statement, estimated at only £300-500.

Torques, Collars and Cuffs

Celebrating the versatility of the collar and cuff, Vogue asserts that these pieces can be worn over a fine knit or combined with a simple t-shirt. The perfect way to add some style substance to nearly any outfit, Vogue selects a Gucci costume jewellery collar necklace retailing for £810, we would recommend a perennial classic, the Elsa Peretti Bone Cuff, or any gold cuffs, flat snake chains or torque bangles that you may already have in your collection.

Vogue’s Choice – Gucci, Blondie Crystal Necklace. £810 Gucci.
Vogue’s Choice – Gucci, Blondie Crystal Necklace. £810 Gucci.
Our Choice – Elsa Peretti Tiffany & Co, Medium Bone Cuff in Sterling Silver. £1,925
Elsa Peretti Tiffany & Co, Medium Bone Cuff in Sterling Silver. £1,925

Silver Jewellery

Vogue quite rightly references the extreme rise in gold prices in its predictions for the year ahead. Silver jewellery has been spotted on several catwalks and presents a cost-effective alternative to white gold both at the jewellers’ bench and to the end consumer. As such, mixing metals and two-toned designs are predicted to be amongst the more prevalent trends for the coming year. We would recommend selecting signed silver pieces, particularly from Scandinavian makers such as Georg Jensen, Lapponia, Anton Michelsen or contemporaries as these pieces retain a timeless style and a fairly consistent premium on the open market.

Vogue’s Choice – Juju Vera, Petra Silver Necklace. £530, Net-A-Porter.
Vogue’s Choice – Juju Vera, Petra Silver Necklace. £530, Net-A-Porter.
Our Choice – Björn Weckström for Lapponia Vintage Modernist Sterling Silver Necklace. £455.10, 1st Dibs.
Our Choice – Björn Weckström for Lapponia Vintage Modernist Sterling Silver Necklace. £455.10, 1st Dibs.

Pinky Rings

Vogue certainly touts 2026 as “the year of the pinky ring,” a fairly timeless staple in many jewellery collections. The pinky rings this year however veer further from the classic signet rings, eschewing these for more intricate gem-set and intricately engraved designs. Vogue’s correspondent references a portrait cut synthetic sapphire ring from Jilian Maddin, retailing for £5,595. Other contemporary jewellers that add a creative flair to this trend are Castro Smith and Cece Jewellery.

Vogue’s Choice – Jillian Maddin, One-of-a-kind Odette Swan Portrait Ring. £5,595, Tomfoolery London.
Vogue’s Choice – Jillian Maddin, One-of-a-kind Odette Swan Portrait Ring. £5,595, Tomfoolery London.
Our Choice – Castro Smith, Tree of Life Signet Ring. £7,440
Our Choice – Castro Smith, Tree of Life Signet Ring. £7,440

‘Pieces with Permanence’ – Fine Over Demi-Fine Jewellery

An ongoing style resolution that we can all vouch for! Opting for precious gemstones, and pieces with material permanence is always ‘in vogue’!

Our Suggested Fine Jewellery Trends for 2026 and Beyond!

Coloured Gemstones and Diamonds

Masterpiece Pink Diamond and Diamond earrings. Pragnell, £140,000.
Masterpiece Pink Diamond and Diamond earrings. Pragnell, £140,000.

In a sea of fashionably neutral and earth-toned outfits, jewellery is a wonderful way to add some flair. The continuing demand for natural, high quality coloured gemstones and fancy coloured diamonds, in opposition to colourless D-F grade laboratory-grown diamonds will see no letting up. Big investments from retailers and manufacturers into promoting tinted and brown diamonds at retail level – see De Beers. Desert Diamonds have indicated this sartorial push. Of course, breathtaking canary yellow, vibrant pink, orange, blue and green diamonds will continue their reign at the very top end of the market. Coloured gemstones of natural origin such as sapphires, rubies, spinel, emerald and opal will continue to add vibrancy to the most discerning of collections.

Unique Cuts

The high-profile engagement rings of 2025, coupled with the overarching desire for the rare, unique and coveted has shone a spotlight on lapidary, carving and manufacturing. I would expect this demand for pieces delivering ‘out of the ordinary’ stone shapes to only continue into 2026 and thereafter. Whether it be the unique and charming qualities of old cut diamonds, fascinating historical intaglios that tell ancient tales, brand-new innovative diamond cuts or hyper-realistic hardstone carvings, jewels showcasing these exquisitely finished stones will deservedly find an increased popularity that will outlast many seasons to come.

9.86ct Elongated Old Cut Diamond Solitaire Ring. Hancocks, POA.
9.86ct Elongated Old Cut Diamond Solitaire Ring. Hancocks, POA.
Sophie Gardner. Orange and Green Ocean Jasper Moth. $1,890
Sophie Gardner. Orange and Green Ocean Jasper Moth. $1,890

Setting Stones

Combining each of the predictions above, a big trend that can be expected into the coming years is the use of semi-precious stones for setting their precious counterparts in contemporary jewellery. Jonathan Anderson teased this trend in his first runway show for Dior last year, stacking agate and turquoise bangles each set with diamond and quartz. Breathtaking and ‘cutting-edge’ releases from the likes of Seaman Schepps and Ana Khouri seem to indicate a propulsion of the trend and a modern take on Suzanne Belperron’s distinctive Mid-Century style.

Seaman Schepps. (L-R) Bodrum Bracelet in Blue Chalcedony and Sapphire $43,450. Classic Large Link Bracelet in Blue Chalcedony & Sapphire POA.
Seaman Schepps. (L-R) Bodrum Bracelet in Blue Chalcedony and Sapphire $43,450. Classic Large Link Bracelet in Blue Chalcedony & Sapphire POA.
Ana Khouri. Diamond, Rock Crystal and Fairmined Gold Ring. POA.
Ana Khouri. Diamond, Rock Crystal and Fairmined Gold Ring. POA.
Suzanne Belperron. Star Sapphire, Chalcedony and Diamond ring, circa 1961. POA from Pat Saling.
Suzanne Belperron. Star Sapphire, Chalcedony and Diamond ring, circa 1961. POA from Pat Saling.

Our Number One Trend – Jewellery Collection Maintenance

At Doerr Dallas, we see first-hand the significance of not only acquiring timeless and stylish pieces, but maintaining them too. Our team of specialists can help with the ongoing care of your fine jewellery collection. Keeping regularly updated and accurate insurance valuations, stones and settings checks, clasp inspections, and keeping a record of your documentation are absolutely vital in protecting yourself from loss, and in the event of a loss. Contact us today for further information on our jewellery valuation services.