Category Archives: Liz Bailey News

The rise of the ‘Divorce ring’

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A new phenomenon?

A huge jewellery trend of 2024 has been the rise of the ‘divorce rings,’ propelled into the spotlight by none other than supermodel Emily Ratajkowski. Following her divorce from Sebastian Bear-McClard in 2022, she revealed that she had remodelled her ‘toi et moi’ diamond engagement ring into two separate rings via an Instagram post in March of 2024. The images of these two rings were simply captioned “divorce rings,” signalling and representing a transformation in her jewellery to coincide with the transformation taking place in her life. She explained to Vogue, “The rings represent my own personal evolution… I don’t think a woman should be stripped of her diamonds just because she’s losing a man.”

From the original engagement ring, set with pear cut and princess cut diamonds, Emily commissioned designer Alison Lou to create two separate pieces. Firstly, a single stone ring in a yellow gold setting for the pear to be worn on the little finger, and secondly a three stone ring from the princess cut, with additional trapezoid cut diamonds either side in a bi-colour setting. From one original engagement ring, these two complementary dress rings mark a transformational and empowering moment in her life, as she explained to Vogue “Somehow, these rings feel like a reminder that I can make myself happy in ways I never imagined.”

Although a seemingly fresh and somewhat viral idea of 2024 thanks to Emrata’s Instagram post, the repurposing of sentimental jewellery is nothing new. Throughout the early 20th century, wedding bands themselves were altered by jewellers both in America and the United Kingdom to signify a divorce.

It was Chicago-born Mrs Marina Parke who purportedly invented the notion of the ‘divorce ring’ in 1911, when she had her wedding ring from her husband Fred sized down to wear on the little finger of her right hand – she has been quoted to say that as a result “new acquaintances no longer enquire about your husband, and old friends who have not yet heard of the divorce, perceiving the ring, are saved from embarrassing themselves and you by asking awkward questions”.

In the UK, women were recorded as having their wedding bands altered variously – with zigzags cut through, resizing and worn on the little finger. Designs specifically for the little finger followed, including black enamel sections added to former wedding rings, the addition of a broken Cupid’s bow, or simply the word ‘FREE’ inscribed to the inside of the band. Moving into the 1930s, the divorce ring was “quite glamorous, shaped as a circle of diamonds or pearls, interrupted by a coloured gemstone. The breaking of the circle symbolised the severed marriage union.” (The Times).

The act of repurposing and re-wearing sentimental jewellery in this way does certainly add a degree of autonomy and transformation to a piece. There are of course instances in which remodelling jewellery can decrease value – especially when removed from a designer’s setting, altering an antique jewel, or when the heat of the jeweller’s torch poses far too much of a risk to the gem material encased within. In any case, it is highly recommended to seek advice from a specialist, and of course up-to-date valuations for any items to guarantee sufficient cover for your jewellery both before and after any alterations are made.

John Lennon’s Patek Philippe

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The most iconic and elusive watch of all time?

Set to eclipse the hammer price of Paul Newman’s Daytona if this wonderful piece ever comes to auction, John Lennon’s Patek Philippe has been at the forefront of watch news for the past six months. Famously missing for thirty-four years, this iconic and elusive timepiece is currently embroiled in a near-decade long court battle in Geneva between Yoko Ono and an Italian collector, who purchased the piece via private treaty from former German auctioneers Auctionata. Set to resolve by the end of 2024, the outcome of this lawsuit is eagerly awaited by collectors and watch enthusiasts alike.

John Lennon’s ref. 2499 Patek Philippe watch was purchased just months before his death, as a gift for his 40th birthday from wife Yoko Ono. She purchased the 4th series 2499 from Tiffany & Co. in New York – cased in yellow gold, with the retailer’s signature on the dial, and possessing a single personalised engraving to the case back, which rather eerily reads, considering that Lennon was murdered just three months later:

(JUST LIKE)
STARTING OVER
LOVE YOKO
10 • 9 • 1980
N. Y. C.

The reference 2499 by Patek Philippe on its own is an incredibly rare and highly sought-after timepiece. Only 349 examples of this reference were ever made within a 35-year production run. This reference is largely considered amongst collectors to be the ultimate Patek Philippe – combining singularity and exceptional craftsmanship. Replacing the 1518, this perpetual calendar chronograph features the triple subsidiary dial, day and date aperture and pushers to 2 and 4, all within a 37mm yellow gold, rose gold and the rarest of all platinum case (only two platinum 2499s were ever made).

Following Lennon’s untimely death in December 1980, the watch was recorded and placed into storage. It is purported that from here the watch was stolen by Yoko Ono’s former private driver, Koral Karsan who was later charged in 2017. In 2014 however, the watch was sold through private treaty by Auctionata for €600,000 to an Italian collector.

The watch was subsequently taken to Christie’s Geneva, who contacted Yoko Ono’s solicitor to enquire about the watch and its provenance. It was at this point, nearly 35 years later that Ono discovered the watch had been stolen. In 2015 a contest was raised, and the watch was placed in a ‘consignment-escrow agreement,’ with each claimant declaring their rightful ownership of the watch. Now, nine years later the case has reached its final appeal at the Tribunal Fédéral, Switzerland, against a verdict that Ono is the owner of the watch. The case is expected to be settled within the year.

As the watch and pop culture worlds wait with bated breath to see the outcome of this court case and the eventual trajectory of the piece, it is natural that the market is reactionary, meaning that regular valuations are essential for any watch collection.

Prices for Patek Philippe ref 2499 are amongst the highest for the brand and continue to grow – a combination of their rarity, exceptional complication and place in the zeitgeist. Whether Lennon’s watch does make it to auction or not, the infamy and journey of this exceptional timepiece will surely continue to bolster and uplift the value of these rare timepieces.

Queen Charlotte from Netflix's Bridgerton and Queen Charlotte wearing a parure.

The Power of the Parure

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The release of series 3 of Bridgerton on Netflix has provided viewers with a visual feast – brightly hued costumes, sensational floral displays, grand balls, outlandish wigs, and of course – some fabulous jewellery! Whilst adapted to the modern -day audience and of course not strictly true to Queen Charlotte’s time, this beautiful display of gem-set jewellery should quite rightly draw attention to the truly amazing pieces produced in the late 18th and early 19th century.

Seen throughout the series and most ostentatiously on Queen Charlotte herself is the parure. Deriving from the French ‘parer’ ‘to adorn,’ the Parure refers to a set of jewels intended to be worn together.

The Bridgerton books by Julia Quinn are set between 1813 and 1827, covering the Regency period and beyond. By this time, parures set with precious and semi-precious stones were worn for court and formal occasions, with an abundance of jewellery at the very height of fashion.

Jewellery in Bridgerton - Queen Charlotte

The finest parures and demi-parures would consist of hair ornaments, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, bodice brooches and stick pins set with aquamarine, topaz, citrine and amethyst. Owing to their age, many parts and the frequent remodelling of jewellery over time, complete parures in their original form, with fitted cases are relatively rare and ever-increasing in value.

As seen in the aquamarine example above, fashionable, pastel-coloured gemstones such as aquamarine, pink topaz, and golden topaz were set within richly hued cannetille settings. Particularly sought-after at auction and therefore increasing in value are pink and golden topaz, whether in closed or the later open back settings.

A sub-section of Georgian jewellery that can very frequently be undervalued or even be dismissed as costume jewellery is paste jewellery. Although set with glass instead of crystalline material, this colourful and vibrant jewellery is increasingly sought-after by collectors. Paste is a notoriously soft material, prone to scratches and chips particularly if stored with other jewellery, so survivors of paste jewellery from this time command a premium. As seen with the following two examples, blue paste in particular has been performing incredibly well at auctions, but examples in all colours can be found in jewellery boxes up and down the country!

Rivière necklaces have very much had the spotlight on the latest series of Bridgerton, with the ‘diamond of the season’ Francesca Bridgerton adorning an array of these classically elegant and universally adored necklaces. Set with a wide range of gemstones, from diamonds to agates to cameos, the rivière necklace consists of a gently graduated pattern and continues in popularity to the modern day! As seen in the example below, rivière necklaces from this time period are frequently seen with a hoop surmount to the principal stone, allowing for the addition of a drop pendant. Values can depend upon the age, condition, gemstone identity, saturation, settings and carat weight.

For an up-to-date, confidential valuation of your Bridgerton-era jewellery by our nationwide, specialist team, contact us.

Jewellery Valuation

Designer Jewellery Trends – An Upward Curve?

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There is no doubt that values in the designer jewellery field have seen uplifts in the past few years. A unique combination of the Post Pandemic luxury goods ‘boom’, an exponential rise in social media influences on buying patterns, wider inflation and bullion prices have all contributed to an incredibly buoyant and enduring atmosphere.

Similarly to the trends seen over the last couple of years in the watch market, particular designer brands saw a huge increase in popularity, visibility, and subsequent demand on the secondary market, with only a slight respite towards the end of 2023 (Reuters).

Coupled with retail prices ever increasing, the value of these ‘hot’ designer items have been pushed up on the secondary market. Value factors include condition, whether the piece has its box, and the perceived popularity or rarity of any gemstones used in the design.

Cartier

Whilst Cartier’s growth in the retail sphere appeared to be easing towards the end of last year, share prices and figures released in January 2024 display a definite upward curve driven by demand in Asia. This healthy overall trajectory has filtered down to the secondary market, with Cartier items at auction demonstrating a strong sales rate and frequently exceeding estimate.

‘Love’

The last retail price increase for Cartier was implemented in early 2023, with prices rising from anywhere between 3% to over 10%. The most sought-after and iconic collections naturally increased the most, with Pursebop estimating the retail price of an 18ct white gold Love Bracelet set with four diamonds increasing 7% to £12,200.

The Cartier ‘Love’ bangle is one of the most popular items of jewellery ever designed. Created by Aldo Cipullo in 1969 and were referred to as a ‘modern love handcuff,’ only removable with the help of a mini screwdriver.

Worth noting that some designs, including Aldo Cipullo original LOVE jewels from the 1960s onwards will always command a premium for their place in the brand’s design history. Another 1960s design by Cipullo to continue to grow in retail price is the Juste Un Clou, with a ‘small’ diamond set bangle selling for £4,850, and a diamond-set choker necklace now retailing at £105,000.

Cartier Trinity

This year, to celebrate 100 years of the Trinity Collection, Cartier has released two new designs, a re-edition of the XL bracelet and an XL version of the iconic ring. Maintaining the timeless appeal and enduring relevance of this beautiful collection has seen values continue to rise over decades, resulting in a classic collection that is still coveted a century after its creation.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Another brand under the Richemont umbrella is Van Cleef & Arpels. Van Cleef & Arpels was established in 1895 following the marriage of Estelle Arpels, daughter of a dealer in precious stones, and Alfred Van Cleef, son of a lapidary. Creating masterpieces such as the ‘invisible setting,’ the minaudière, and the zip necklace, this iconic jewellery house is perhaps best known in present times for the ‘Alhambra’ collection. Indeed, according to statistics by retailer Watch Pilot, in 2023, the Van Cleef Alhambra bracelet was the most Google searched item of jewellery by category.

VCA Alhambra

Designed in 1968 by Jacques Arpels to be symbolic for luck, the Alhambra Collection is designed around a series of quatrefoil ‘four leaf clover’ panels. Varying in designs with quantity, size, and gem material, these beautifully set clover shapes are truly emblematic of the brand. Worn by royalty and celebrities to include the likes of Princess Grace of Monaco, Elizabeth Taylor, Kate Middleton and many more, the Alhambra collection possesses a truly timeless appeal.

Since 2022, the retail price for an 18ct gold Alhambra bracelet with five mother of pearl motifs has increased by 5.3% to £3,950.

At auction, the Van Cleef Alhambra pieces that well exceeded estimates were limited edition runs and unique pieces that were impossible to procure from the retail market.

One such example was a striking collar necklace, formed from openwork Alhambra links in 18ct yellow gold, selling at Bonhams in 2022 for £50,000 against a £12,000-15,000 estimate.

Boodles

Boodle & Dunthorne was established in Liverpool in 1795, gaining a reputation as one of Britain’s finest jewellers. Rebranding to ‘Boodles’ in 2004, this coveted brand has designed several sought-after jewellery collections that continue to enjoy increases in value as the years go by. Collections such as the Velocity, Blossom, and Raindance are all designed and handcrafted in-house from Boodles’ workshops in the heart of London.

Raindance

Designed in 2000 and inspired by a trip to the Chelsea Flower Show in which Head of Design Rebecca Hawkins admired the way light played on raindrops, the Raindance Collection is seen as one of the brand’s most iconic collections. Indeed, the Victoria & Albert Museum has a Raindance ring on display as part of their ‘Best of British Design’ permanent exhibition.

Featuring a series of collet set diamonds in varying sizes and angles, these beautiful jewels are retailing from £3,400 for a single band set with three circular rubies or sapphires and a pair of brilliant cut diamonds. At the top end of the spectrum is the Raindance ‘Chelsea’ bracelet, set with over 15 carats of colourless and fancy pink diamonds at £134,400.

Celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2020, Boodles released a limited-edition ring, set in platinum and 18ct rose gold with colourless and Argyle pink diamonds. Varying in carat weights, these limited edition pieces will continue to grow in value and hold their own at auction. In 2023, one such example with approximately 2.80cts of diamonds sold at Tennants Auctioneers for £19,000. Meanwhile, a version of the design on Boodles website set with 4.25cts is available for purchase at £84,000.

To conclude, exquisitely constructed and expertly finished jewellery will always possess a value, and continue to rise according to demand, popularity and inflation over time.

Although trends and fashionable collections will alter and vary over the years, items from the premier jewellery houses, in good condition and with original boxes will retain a demand from collectors, jewellery lovers and indeed those new to the market. Pieces that possess an unusual or rare aspect, such as an early piece from the collection, limited edition runs, and unexpected gemstones can expect to exponentially increase in value over time.

With the clear discrepancy between open market value and retail replacement value, it is essential that clients are equipped with adequate cover for their items. For a specialist, informed and up to date valuation of your jewellery collection, contact our experienced, nationwide team at Doerr Dallas Valuations.

Gents Valentine’s Gift Guide

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Valentine’s Day is fast approaching, and this is undoubtedly a busy time for jewellers all over the world. An irrevocably sentimental art form, jewellery has been a tangible token of love for centuries. From the breathtaking Posy rings of the Medieval times to mysterious ‘Lover’s Eye’ brooches fashionable in the Georgian era, symbolic and acrostic Victorian jewellery, all the way to modern day engagement rings, eternity rings and promise rings, jewellery has expressed love in many, many forms!

During this busy time in the retail sphere, much attention is given to jewellery for her. However, there are a stunning selection of pieces also suitable for showing your love to the gentleman in your life. The demand is there, Tiffany & Co. made brand history in October last year for launching their first ‘Tiffany Men’s’ collection, to cater to a wider audience and a keen consumer base. With that in mind, here is a ‘gents gift guide’ for that special man in your life, with examples ranging from the 19th century all the way to the present day.

Rings

Understandably, rings on Valentine’s Day are certainly sending a very strong message but as a gift for a spouse, a special dress ring could be the perfect piece! According to GHQ Magazine, rings are the top male jewellery trend of 2024. Citing inspiration from the likes of Harry Styles, bold, stacked rings are the accessory of the year.

Whilst most will steer away from Harry’s maximalist styling, the ring is the classic token of enduring love and affection, symbolised in its circular form. Ideas for gifts could include a classic signet ring in a heavy gauge and engraving for everyday wear, perhaps a fascinating gemstone intaglio for a history lover or decorated with enamelled detailing that is highly personal to the wearer.

Intaglio jewellery, particularly early and crystalline gem-set pieces sold exceptionally well at auction in 2023, and continue to exponentially rise in value, so it is extremely important to ensure your items possess an up-to-date insurance valuation.

Unique band rings are also an easy style to incorporate into a jewellery rotation and update a look. Adding silver, gold, or platinum bands are an easy way to enhance an ensemble. Part of Tiffany’s 2023 ‘Forge’ collection, this unique linked band is available in silver and blackened silver finishes and form a great entry piece for collectors. Another iconic gold band is the classic ‘B.Zero1’ ring by Bulgari, retailing at £3,200. This design was debuted in 1999 and has become a classic, for its unique spiral design, generous proportions, and striking double logo.

Cufflinks

For a more classic look, a beautiful pair of cufflinks will always be in style. Pairs of cufflinks set in gold or platinum and paired with gemstones rating higher on the Moh’s scale of hardness such as diamond, sapphire and topaz will ensure a gift that can be worn again and again.

As a rule, cufflinks that retain and increase in value are those by well-known and revered makers. Early 20th century antique cufflinks from the likes of August Frederik Hollming for Fabergé, set with precious gemstones, ornamented with the maker’s famed enamel, and bearing maker’s marks would be the perfect gift for any discerning collector.

Without a doubt, Cartier produced an exceptional array of fine cufflinks and dress sets from the early 20th century onwards. With an exceptional and varied output spanning decades, styles, gemstones, and featuring designs from the ostentatious to the refined, and the timeless to the novelty, these cufflinks are amongst the most sought-after at auction, with diamond-set examples selling for in excess of £52,000 (Christies, Auction 15493, 2018).

Particularly stylish and useful are the ‘interchangeable’ or ‘baton’ cufflinks that were introduced by Cartier in the 1960s and also produced by celebrated jewellers such as André Vassort, Boucheron, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Cleverly designed with a fixed gold bar mount and a series of gemstone batons or terminals that could be swapped and changed to match the wearer’s mood, these wonderful cufflinks have become increasingly sought-after in the last couple of years.

Necklaces

A necklace is also a great idea for a Valentine’s gift for him. Ever increasing in popularity, the Google search for ‘Men’s pendant necklaces’ increased over 900% from 2021-22. For a unique and personalised gift, consider purchasing an antique or mid-century piece, and consider which metal, link design, style of clasp, and length would be your partner’s preference. As one would expect, unique links, designer attributions and heft all play a part in the intrinsic value of the piece, so choose carefully especially when buying through retail.

Whether it is a ring, pair of cufflinks, a necklace, or another piece of jewellery entirely that you treat your significant other with this Valentine’s Day, do make sure that you buy a piece that has that personal feel and sentimental value. Buying second hand and at auction are fantastic ways to procure items that are beautifully one-of-a-kind.

The jewellery market is ever-changing, and values are increasing all the time, so make sure you consider a comprehensive valuation of your items to ensure adequate cover and peace of mind. For further information on our nationwide valuation services, contact us via [email protected].