Inspired by Chelsea Flower Show…Boodles Raindance Collection

RHS Chelsea Flower Show is upon us, and what better way to mark this eagerly awaited event than with the perennially popular jewellery collection that was first imagined there. In 2000, Boodles’ Head of Design Rebecca Hawkins visited the Chelsea Flower Show. She drew inspiration from the way light reflected on raindrops as they glistened in the sun:

“I saw rain trickling down a very simple four-sided pillar, it was channelling down in rills, collecting in little droplets, some of them single, some of them grouped together in different sizes, catching the sunlight and looking really beautiful — I made a little scribble on a scrap piece of paper.”

It was this, quintessentially British scene that inspired one of the most iconic and enduring contemporary jewellery collections. The design, decorated with shimmering cascades of diamonds, features bezel set stones, in a variety of sizes, reminiscent of these raindrops. Initially released in a collection of diamonds and platinum, the line has since evolved to include rose, yellow and white gold – set with sapphires, tourmaline and Argyle pink diamonds.

Launched in 2002, the Raindance Collection featured a pendant and earrings, followed by a bracelet, necklace and the now iconic ring. The Raindance ring was chosen by the Victoria & Albert Museum as an icon of British Jewellery design, and has been on permanent display since 2009.

The Boodles Raindance ring on display at the Victoria & Albert Museum. Item number: M.52:1-2009

From 2002 – 2009, over a thousand Raindance rings had been sold. The appeal continues to grow through to the present day – as of last year, the Raindance collection accounted for 12% of Boodles company sales. The enduring appeal of the rings in particular is quite simple, as Hawkins said: “Who doesn’t like to see diamonds dancing across their finger?”

The Boodles Raindance 25 Pink and White Diamond Platinum Ring, 2.40 carats white diamond, 0.42 carat pink diamonds. Recommended replacement value £84,000
The Boodles Raindance 25 Pink and White Diamond Platinum Ring, 2.40 carats white diamond, 0.42 carat pink diamonds. Recommended replacement value £84,000

For their 25th anniversary last year, Boodles launched the Boodles Raindance Garden Collection, and commemorated the event with a gold-medal winning garden of the same name at the Chelsea Flower Show (pictured above). The anniversary collection featured Argyle pink diamonds set in rose gold, alongside platinum set white diamonds.

The Boodles Raindance Medium Rose Gold Diamond Ring, 2.94 carats. Recommended replacement value £30,300.
The Boodles Raindance Medium Rose Gold Diamond Ring, 2.94 carats. Recommended replacement value £30,300.
The Boodles Raindance Half Hoop Platinum Ruby Ring, recommended replacement value £3,900. The replacement value on this ring has increased by 15% in two years.
The Boodles Raindance Half Hoop Platinum Ruby Ring, recommended replacement value £3,900. The replacement value on this ring has increased by 15% in two years.
The Boodles Raindance Classic Diamond Yellow Gold Bracelet, 2.10 carats. Recommended replacement value £19,300
The Boodles Raindance Watercolour White Gold Cluster Pendant. Set with aquamarine, diamond, tanzanite and tsavorite garnet. Recommended replacement value £6,300
The Boodles Raindance Watercolour White Gold Cluster Pendant. Set with aquamarine, diamond, tanzanite and tsavorite garnet. Recommended replacement value £6,300

Often Imitated, Never Replicated

As with any popular jewellery collection, the Raindance Collection has formed inspiration for many other jewellery designs and comparables available to purchase. Sites where you can configure your own version of the Raindance ring with natural or laboratory grown diamonds, ‘Rain Drops’ and ‘Bubble’ rings can also be found. These pieces however do not possess the quality, craftsmanship or enduring value of the original collection, and therefore their replacement value will be fractional.

The Boodles Classic Raindance ring, set in platinum and with 1.50 carat of diamonds.Recommended Replacement Value £13,200.
The Boodles Classic Raindance ring, set in platinum and with 1.50 carat of diamonds.Recommended Replacement Value £13,200.
Laboratory grown diamond Full Bezel Setting Seven Stone ring, platinum, 1.48 carat. Recommended Replacement Value £4,600
Diamond Bubble Ring, 1.50 carats natural diamonds, G colour, SI1 clarity. Recommended Replacement Value £6,000
Diamond Bubble Ring, 1.50 carats natural diamonds, G colour, SI1 clarity. Recommended Replacement Value £6,000

Do your clients have Boodles Raindance jewellery in their collection? If so, it may be worth thinking of a re-valuation. Contact our team for further information about our jewellery valuation services, and how our specialist, nationwide team can assist your clients.

Happy Anniversary to the Nautilus Patek Philippe’s iconic timepiece turns 50

This year, the iconic, elegant sports watch designed by Gérald Genta for Patek Philippe in 1976 turns 50. The Nautilus has seen five decades of popularity, with references, releases and innovations, blended with timeless design, that has captivated collectors young and old for all of this time. To celebrate this milestone for one of the most recognisable, coveted wristwatches, we thought we would take a look at some memorable references through time.

1976 – The first Patek Philippe Nautilus, the ‘Jumbo’ ref. 3700/1A

The 3700/1A was the first Nautilus ever released by Patek Philippe. In the midst of the quartz crisis, Patek Philippe released this bold, stainless steel dress watch with a cal. 28-255 C, ultra thin automatic movement, with an equally bold price of $3,100 (equivalent to around $17,000 today) making it the most expensive stainless steel watch in their catalogue, more expensive than some of their gold models.

Originally retailed at $3,100. We would place an approximate insurance replacement figure of £100,000+ on this model – depending on condition, accompaniments, age.
Originally retailed at $3,100. We would place an approximate insurance replacement figure of £100,000+ on this model – depending on condition, accompaniments, age.

Aside from being a brand-new sports/dress watch model, the design was unapologetic in size – boasting a ‘Jumbo’ 42mm stainless steel case and integrated bracelet. Reportedly drafted on a napkin by Genta, the shape for this iconic watch was inspired by portholes in ships. The ridged dial so recognised in contemporary Nautilus’ was also born here, said to be a ‘teak deck pattern.’ The 3700 was discontinued in the 1990s.

2006 – Debuted on the 30th Anniversary, the most renowned Nautilus ref. 5711

The 5711 was released in 2006 on the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus ‘Jumbo.’ Sticking with its design heritage, the case was 43mm in diameter including the ears, and featured a central sweeping seconds hand, within a three-part case. The 5711 was produced for fifteen years and featured three movements over the course of its time, as well as progressing dial variations – which can affect value fairly significantly. For example, the green and Tiffany & Co. dials released in the last years of the 5711’s production saw the boom of these models as ‘hype’ watches during the Covid watch bubble. The 5711 was officially discontinued in 2021.

Steel model originally retailed at $17,000 in 2006.

Patek Philippe Nautilus
Patek Philippe Nautilus

This hugely significant, celebrated reference has set auction records on the open markets for special editions. In 2021, a Tiffany dial 5711 set records at Philips in selling for $6.2 million. It was, however, swiftly dethroned in 2024 when a ref. 5711/1500A, with unique hand-engraved case by Patek Philippe, sold for around $7.65 million.

In 2021, a Tiffany dial 5711 set records at Philips in selling for $6.2 million. It was, however, swiftly dethroned in 2024 when a ref. 5711/1500A, with unique hand-engraved case by Patek Philippe, sold for around $7.65 million.

2014: The release of the Nautilus Time Travel Chronograph, ref. 5990/1A


The Nautilus, updated with chronograph and dual time functions was released at Baselworld in 2014. This model replaced the 2006 released 5980/1A with added complication and refined dial configuration. This stainless steel Nautilus measuring 40.5mm in diameter was powered by a new calibre CH 28-520 C FUS, with four complications – chronograph, date, day/night and travel time.

Originally retailed at $57,300. We would place an approximate insurance replacement figure of £95,000 on this model

2016: The 40th Anniversary Limited Editions (1300/700 pieces) refs. 5976/1G-001 and 5711/1P-001

Two editions were released to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus, each with stamping to the dial to commemorate the anniversary. The white gold chronograph, with 44mm diameter, and a platinum time and date 40mm Nautilus.

The 40th Anniversary Limited Editions (1300/700 pieces) refs. 5976/1G-001 and 5711/1P-001

Left: The Patek Philippe white gold diamond-set chronograph 40th Anniversary Nautilus, ref. 5976/1G-001. Retailed in 2016 at $96,390. We would place an approximate insurance replacement figure of £300,000 on this model.

Right: The Patek Philippe platinum diamond-set 40th Anniversary Nautilus, ref. 5711/1P-001. Retailed in 2016 at $113,400. We would place an approximate insurance replacement figure of £330,000 on this model.

2018 – The first-ever Nautilus Perpetual Calendar, ref. 5740/1G-001

The first-ever Nautilus Perpetual Calendar, ref. 5740/1G-001

The 5740/1G-001 made history for the Nautilus as the first ever with Grand Complication, in the form of a Perpetual Calendar. Released in 2018, this 40mm Nautilus retained the sleek profile of its predecessors.

Retailed in 2018 at CHF 105,000 (£99,500). We would place an approximate insurance replacement figure of £200,000 on this model.

2026 –The 50th Anniversary – Four New Models Announced in April at Watches & Wonders

The four new models announced for the 50th anniversary were described by Hodinkee as “large, small, and surprising.” The four models had no date function and no centre seconds. With three wristwatches and a desk clock, this broad offering caters to fans of the model with mid-size re-appearances, ‘Jumbo’ pieces, straps, bracelets and a novelty collector’s piece. The commemorative dates ’50 1976-2026’ have been moved from the dial in the 40th anniversary models, and engraved more subtly to the rotor of the cal. 240 movement, otherwise to the case back of the desk clock.

The 5610/1P-001

The 5610/1P-001 with an ultra-thin platinum 38mm case measuring 38mm in diameter, marking the return of the ‘medium’ size launched in the 1980s. With diamond set into the 9o’clock ear and white gold baton markers. Limited to 2,000 pieces. Priced at time of release at CHF 90,000 (£85,500).

The 5810/1G-001 features a white gold 41mm case with a sunburst blue dial, diamond indices and alternating polished/satin finished bracelet. Limited to 2,000 pieces. Priced at time of release at CHF 75,000 (£71,000)

5810G-001

The 5810G-001 features a white old case with sunburst blue dial, diamond indices and navy blue composite strap with cream stitching. Limited to 1,000 pieces. Priced at time of release at CHF 60,000 (£57,000)

The 958G

The 958G shows the iconic Nautilus reinterpreted as a desk clock. Purportedly an idea by one of Patek Philippe’s apprentices, this cleverly engineered, bold timepiece adds the element of surprise to the 50th anniversary. Limited to 100 pieces. Priced at time of release at CHF 205,000 (£194,000)

We will await the value projection on the secondary market for these special 50th anniversary edition Nautilus, and indeed the other references featured in this article. For more information about our watch valuations, visit www.doerrvaluations.co.uk.

Summer exhibitions

Summer 2026 Must-See Exhibitions

With the appearance of summer there are an array of fantastic exhibitions and displays of artwork, sculpture, ceramics, and jewellery across the UK. Fortunately, our team of nationwide specialists are here to pick out their selections for this year’s calendar:

Cecily Brown: Picture Making
Serpentine Gallery
Running until 6th September

“I recommend this exhibition. Cecily Brown is a truly great painter and her work is little known beyond those of us already involved in the art world. Amazingly for such a major artist this is her first London show and is a must see …. It’s already open and runs over the summer into early September.”

Grima at the Tomasso Gallery
Tomasso Gallery, London
From 11th – 20th June

“I’m really looking forward to this year’s instalment of the Grima exhibition at the Tomasso Gallery. In what will be its fourth year, this week-long showcase of Andrew Grima’s work, including jewellery and watches from his iconic ‘About Time’ collection for Omega, and contemporary Grima Jewellery pieces is one of the best opportunities to see such a breadth of his work together. For our review of the 2025 edition of this special annual exhibition, take a look at our article here.

London Watch Week
Various locations, London
3rd-6th June 2026

“For those with a passion for horology, London Watch Week has you covered. Last year included events hosted by Bonhams, Pragnell, Oris, plus dedicated days to celebrate independents, and vintage wristwatches – organised by Lucy Cheesewright, Justin Hast and Tom Exton – this carefully curated event will cover numerous facets of the watch world.”

London Watch Fair
The Renaissance Hotel, Heathrow
14th June 2026

“If the Watch Week wasn’t enough, the London Watch Fair takes place just over a week later on 14th June and provides visitors with the chance to see (and buy!) vintage watches from some of the best dealers in the business. With seventy traders lined up for this specialist fair, this is a fantastic opportunity to see rare models, discover new collecting niches and make connections with dealers.”

The Bayeux Tapestry

The British Museum, London
September 2026-July 2027

“To say the upcoming Bayeux exhibition at the British Museum will be a once-in-a-lifetime exhibition would be an understatement – the Bayeux Tapestry hasn’t gone on tour since the Napoleonic era! This will be the first time it has visited the UK since its creation nearly a thousand years ago, so reserve your tickets promptly when they go on sale in July for the September opening.”

Quentin Blake Centre for Illustration
Clerkenwell, London
Opening 5 June 2026

“While not an exhibition I am really excited to visit the Quentin Blake Centre for Illustration which officially opens in London this June. Illustration art is one of my greatest passions, so I am fascinated to see the programme of exhibitions in this unique dedicated space.”

May Morris: Crafting a Legacy

Lady Lever Art Gallery, Liverpool
25th April – 1st November

“This exhibition is a celebration of the wide-ranging creative output of Arts and Crafts designer and maker, May Morris, the younger daughter of William Morris. A vibrant display of embroideries, wallpapers, watercolour designs, costume and jewellery will showcase her many talents.”

Gwen John: Strange Beauties

National Museum Cardiff
Until 28th June

‘It was a joy and a revelation to go to the Gwen John Exhibition at Amgueddfa Cymru – Museum Wales in Cardiff, last week. The drawings are almost entirely from their own collection, which numbers more than 900 works, purchased from the artist’s nephew’s estate in 1976. The oils are borrowed from all over the globe. There are only 158 known. One observation I made after looking closely at so many tiny drawings, was that Gwen spent most of her time painting these portraits and still lifes in a small studio. There is little sense of space or depth in these drawings so, despite feeling “more at home in the country than in the town”, her landscapes are strangely ambiguous. She can’t cope with or describe the great outdoors. It isn’t intimate enough.”

Elizabeth 1, Queen & Court
Philip Mould & Company
14th May – 10th July

“This exhibition will include the earliest surviving life-size, full length portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, together with rarely seen works of some of the key figures from her close circle of courtiers and confidantes. This ‘cast’ of Elizabethan portraiture, rarely exhibited, will show a rare glimpse of how portraiture was used as a tool of power in the 16th century.”

Firsts London 2026 – London’s Rare Book Fair

Saatchi Gallery, King’s Road, London
14th – 17th May

“Firsts London is one of the world’s most popular and high-profile rare book events. Whether you’re a collector looking for the next masterpiece to add to your library, or a bibliophile who loves browsing second-hand classics, Firsts London is the event for you. Discover titles by distinguished authors, ephemera from celebrity readers and manuscripts from history’s great moments, all in the heart of Chelsea.
Are you new to the world of rare books, or just want an expert guide to the fair? Firsts’ selection of talks and tours are a great way to learn more about book collecting and make the most of your visit. From deep-dives into revolutions in printing, to perspectives on careers in the book trade, these free events are a chance to meet experts and learn some of the secrets of the trade.”

Photo London 2026
London Olympia
14 to 17 May 2026

“Photo London is the UK’s leading international fair for photography and image-based art. Each year it brings together the world’s most acclaimed photographers, galleries and curators alongside a new generation of emerging talent.”

The Other Photography Fair

London Olympia
16 May 2026

“The Other Photography Fair showcases photography in its many forms, with a special focus on vintage works from the 19th and 20th centuries. Supported by Vintage Photo Fairs Europe and sponsored by the Chiswick Auctions Fine Photographs Department, the fair gathers leading international dealers, collectors, and specialists under one roof.
Alongside historic photographs, visitors will find photobooks, rare cameras, and live wet plate collodion and cyanotype workshops, bringing early photographic processes to life.”

Fired Legacies: The Ceramic World of Rich Miller
Watts Gallery, Godalming, Surrey
Opening 5 June 2026

“As a novice potter and fan of the Channel 4 show, The Great Pottery Throwdown, I am looking forward to seeing Rich Miller’s first exhibition at Watts Gallery. The exhibition delves into his own heritage and an exploration of British colonial history, and unearths the narratives of trade, labour and identity that have shaped contemporary British society.”

Cartier Releases the Roadster at Watches & Wonders 2026

Hotly anticipated amongst the releases and launches at Watches & Wonders every year, Cartier is certainly the brand that likes to throw in a surprise to shock even the most seasoned of collectors. We have covered previous W&W releases of the Cartier Privé Collections in years gone by, the Tank à Guichets in 2025 and the Tortue in 2024. It only seems fitting then, that we explore the latest release marking Cartier’s 10th editions of Privé since its reboot of CPCP.

This tenth edition however, sees something different. Instead of relaunching one collection from the archives, the Maison has launched no less than six new editions to celebrate this milestone. Seen by many as a ‘best of’ Privé collection, these six watches encapsulate a ‘trio exceptional’ of the Tank Normale, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir and Crash Squelette in a skeleton design – each cased in platinum with ruby crowns and burgundy accents.

The Cartier Privé collection
The Cartier Privé collection

The second trio of the six are cased in 18 carat yellow gold, comprising a Tank Normale, Cloche de Cartier and a Tank Cintrée, accented with golden dials and grey crocodile straps. Pricing has not been released for these six models at the time of writing.

The Return of the Roadster, and the Tortue

Additions to the main collection include the Roadster and the Tortue, to be include in store in a variety of sizes and materials.

2026 Cartier Roadster watch collection
2026 Cartier Roadster watch collection

The Roadster returns to the main collections after a long hiatus. Debuted in 2001, this watch has been out of the main collection for fourteen years. With a tonneau shape case, this model has been released in two sizes and seven variations. Pricing will reportedly be from $9,300 for the midsize steel to $57,000 for the gold (Hodinkee).

Tortue

Following its 2024 Privé appearance, the Tortue has now been added to the main collection. Reimagining the 1912 design with modern detailing and high jewellery finishes, the 2026 Tortue will be available in yellow, rose and white gold, as well as diamond editions with an emphasis on jewellery craftsmanship. Pictured below is a limited edition example launched at W&W. This Panthère Mêtiers d’Art Tortue Watch is available in white and yellow gold, each limited to 100 pieces, decorated with champlevé enamel to the case and dial, set with onyx and tsavorite garnet to the Panthère’s eyes and push down crown.

Cartier Tortue Panthère Métiers d’Art watch
Cartier Tortue Panthère Métiers d’Art watch

Santos Updates

The much-loved Cartier Santos has also seen updates. Most notably, a reworked bracelet in the yellow gold Santos Dumont with obsidian stone dial, made from 394 components – evocative of the jewellery-level finishing that the brand is so celebrated for (see Cartier’s Love Unlimited launch, and new Clash De Cartier launches for this renewed brand-wide emphasis on individual links and components in fine jewellery production).

Cartier Santos-Dumont
Cartier Santos-Dumont

The Santos De Cartier Chronograph has been updated with a strong focus on design clarity and performance.

Jewellery focussed watch releases include a new aesthetic for the ever-popular Baignoire, enhanced with the emblematic Clous de Paris motif covering the surface of the case and bracelet – available in yellow gold and gem-set, with a diamond dial and reverse-set diamonds to the exterior.

Cartier Santos de Cartier Chronograph
Cartier Santos de Cartier Chronograph
Cartier Baignoire Clou de Paris
Cartier Baignoire Clou de Paris

Last but not least, the Myst De Cartier forms a sleek, sculptural addition to the new releases. The bracelets have no clasp, and are formed from bead settings threaded onto a flexible bracelet, using stones and enamel of various sides to create an architectural feel.

The many exciting releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders displays a wealth of creativity and homage to iconic, savoir faire designs. Celebrating their jewellery-making prowess and incorporating it into their watchmaking offerings, from updated bracelets to stunning bracelet-watches, these releases really display what Cartier does best, in a generous and unbridled display of offerings across the collections. For those with vintage Cartier watches, CPCP Cartier watches, or contemporary pieces – we would recommend a re-valuation every two to three years to ensure adequate cover.

Myst de Cartier

Pocket Watches with Provenance

On this day, 114 years ago, the Titanic four days into its maiden voyage sank. The ship sank entirely at 2:20am, this tragic moment in time marked by surviving relics of the tragedy.

The Straus pocketwatch sold for £1.78 million at auction.
The Straus pocketwatch sold for £1.78 million at auction.

A pocket watch, belonging to one of the wealthiest passengers aboard the ship, Isador Straus, was later recovered – stopped at 2:20, the moment that the Titanic disappeared beneath the waves. This 18 carat gold open face pocket watch by Jules Jurgensen once recovered was returned to the Straus family, where it remained until it was sold at Henry Aldridge Auctioneers last November for a record-breaking £1.78 million.

Straus’ Jules Jurgensen pocket watch is not the only timepiece recovered from, or associated with the Titanic to appear at auction in the last few years. Henry Aldridge Auctioneers had previously set an auction record the year prior, selling a gold pocket watch gifted to the captain of RMS Carpathia, a Cunard Line passenger steamship that rescued survivors of the Titanic. The piece was gifted by three widows of wealthy businessmen aboard the ship. This 18 carat gold Tiffany & Co. pocket watch – a token of thanks for extreme bravery, sold for £1.56 million in 2024, reportedly reacquired by Tiffany.

A gold pocket watch gifted to the captain of RMS Carpathia, a Cunard Line passenger steamship that rescued survivors of the Titanic, sold for £1.56 million in 2024
A gold pocket watch gifted to the captain of RMS Carpathia, a Cunard Line passenger steamship that rescued survivors of the Titanic, sold for £1.56 million in 2024

Amongst the widows that gifted the Tiffany & Co. pocket watch to Captain Arthur Rostron was Madeleine Astor, wife of businessman John Jacob Astor IV, the wealthiest passenger aboard the Titanic. Two pocket watches, amongst other personal effects, were recovered from Astor. The first, a 14 karat gold full hunter pocket watch by Waltham, with initials JJA to the case sold in 2024 for £1.1 million.

A 14 karat gold full hunter pocket watch by Waltham, with initials JJA to the case sold in 2024 for £1.1 million
A 14 karat gold full hunter pocket watch by Waltham, with initials JJA to the case sold in 2024 for £1.1 million

The second watch to be recovered from John Jacob Astor IV will sell on 22nd April at Freemans Auctioneers, and could well eclipse the world records previously set in 2024 and 2025. This 18 carat gold open face pocket watch by Patek Philippe, was retailed by Tiffany & Co’s flagship New York store circa 1904 and is offered complete with Patek Philippe’s Extract from the Archives. Similarly monogrammed to case back with Astor’s initials JJA, this piece bears all of the history and provenance as the other examples – and enhanced through its association with two of the finest watchmakers and retailers of the time and indeed today. Estimated at only $300,000-500,000, it is not beyond unreasonable to anticipate this piece will sell for many multiples of the estimate. Retained in the family, and by repute worn daily by Astor’s son, Vincent Astor, this piece was passed through four generations of the family, and now offered alongside a gold, diamond and sapphire pencil case by Battin & Co, estimated at $10,000-20,000.

The Astor pocketwatch and a gold, diamond and sapphire pencil case.
The Astor pocketwatch and a gold, diamond and sapphire pencil case.

Value Projection and the Value of Provenance

So, four gold pocket watches from Titanic passengers selling at auction in across a short span of only two years displays to us a clear picture of where the value sits for this type of piece at this moment in time. These four pieces, sold just after the centenary anniversary of the tragedy offer a comparatively detailed, yet limited picture of the expected value trajectory for these prestige pieces owned by ‘the wealthiest’ passengers aboard the ship.

Another example of a timepiece recovered from the ship belonged to a Jewish passenger, Sinai Kantor, who was emigrating from Russia to New York with his wife. Kantor, a 34 year old furrier had purchased a second class ticket, and his Swiss-made open face silver on brass watch with Hebrew numerals had stopped at 2:25. This piece sold at Heritage Auctions in 2018 for $57,500 to the Miottel collection.

Sinai Kantor’s silver on brass pocket watch, sold for $57,500. For similar comparables of this watch on the open market today, with no provenance or association, the estimate would be in the region of £200-300.
Oscar Scott Woody’s Ingersoll gilt pocket watch, sold in 2022 for £98,000. For similar comparables of this watch on the open market today, with no provenance or association, the estimate would be in the region of £30-50.
Oscar Scott Woody’s Ingersoll gilt pocket watch, sold in 2022 for £98,000. For similar comparables of this watch on the open market today, with no provenance or association, the estimate would be in the region of £30-50.

In 2022, a gilt open face pocket watch by Ingersoll, owned by postal clerk Oscar Scott Woody appeared at auction and sold for £98,000. Using these two results as examples of similar timepieces in similar condition, recovered from passengers and workers aboard the ship, there is an increase of over 100% in just four years. It will be interesting to see the result for Astor’s second (and in my opinion) finest pocket watch, and indeed future results for these pieces should they appear on the open market again.

Pocket watch values can often be surprising to our clients, even without provenance or association to historic events. The increase in precious metal prices has of course increased not only the intrinsic value of these pieces, but caused many more pieces to end up scrapped. The resulting scarcity of fine, precious metal pocket watches has increased prices at the retail level, and outdated insurance valuations from the last couple of years may not adequately cover the value today. For items that are often passed down through generations, and with a deeply personal meaning, this can be distressing. If you or your client would like an updated valuation on their watch collection, get in touch.

World Diamond Day

World Diamond Day: The Stones That Shaped History

Happy World Diamond Day! In honour of this day, launched by the Natural Diamond Council, we thought we would share some of the most significant natural diamonds in history – together with their stories!

The Koh-i-Noor diamond

The largest natural cut diamond in the world is the Koh-i-Noor, weighing 105.6 carats. This oval diamond is set into the British Crown Jewels and kept in the Tower of London. The centrepiece of the Imperial State Crown since 1937, the Koh-i-Noor is thought to have originated in the Golconda mines of India, a prized origin for its historic ‘water-like’ diamonds. The Koh-i-Noor has been owned by Mughal Emperors, Shahs of Iran, Emirs of Afghanistan and Sikh Maharajahs. In 1849, the diamond was obtained by the East India Company as part of the Treaty of Lahore, and surrendered to Queen Victoria.

The Koh-i-Noor diamond in the British Crown Jewels
The Koh-i-Noor diamond in the British Crown Jewels
The Sovereign's sceptre with cross featuring the Cullinan I diamond
The Sovereign's sceptre with cross featuring the Cullinan I diamond

The Cullinan I diamond

The Cullinan I, or the Star of Africa diamond was the largest stone cut from the Cullinan diamond, the largest gem quality rough diamond found. Discovered in 1905 at the Cullinan Mines in South Africa, the Cullinan weighed 3,106.75 carats. This incredible rough crystal was gifted to the British Monarchy in 1907 and cut into 105 stones, the largest of which was the Cullinan I. The Cullinan I, or Star of Africa diamond is a flawless, colourless natural diamond and weighs 530.2 carats. Cut by Joseph Asscher, the Cullinan I was set into the Sovereign’s Sceptre in 1910.

The Dresden Green Diamond

The Dresden Green Diamond is the largest and finest natural green diamond. Weighing 40.70 carats, this pear shape stone is not only of exceptional colour (medium slightly greyish green) but also a Type IIa diamond – meaning that  it has no measurable nitrogen or boron impurities. Purchased in 1742 by King August III of Poland, this diamond is believed to have originated from India. Thankfully missed by thieves in the 2019 Dresden Vault €113 million heist, the diamond and is currently part of the New Green Vault collection at Dresden Castle, Germany.

The Dresden Green Diamond
The Dresden Green Diamond
The Hope Diamond
The Hope Diamond

The Hope Diamond

The Hope Diamond is a 45.52 carat natural fancy dark greyish blue diamond, on permanent display at the National Museum of Natural History in Washington D.C. Extracted in the 17th century, this famed and historic stone was sold to Louis XIV of France in 1668, before being stolen and re-cut. It re-appeared in the early 19th century, in a gem catalogue for the Hope banking family. It was purchased by Harry Winston in 1958 and set into a necklace, donated to the Smithsonian for permanent exhibition.

The Black Orlov Diamond

The Black Orlov Diamond, a natural deep gun-metal grey (fancy black) cushion cut diamond was most famed for its ‘curse,’ affecting its owners over generations. Originally weighing 195 carats, this famed stone was thought to be responsible for the suicides of three previous owners before it was eventually re-cut into three smaller stones in the mid 20th century in an attempt to break the curse – the principal 67.50 carat cushion cut stone was set into a brooch of 108 diamonds (pictured).

The Black Orlov diamond
The Black Orlov diamond
UK art exhibitions 2026

The Art World This Spring: 2026’s Must-See Exhibitions

With the appearance of spring there are an array of fantastic exhibitions and displays of artwork, sculpture, ceramics, and jewellery across the UK. Fortunately, our team of nationwide specialists are here to pick out their selections for this year’s calendar:

Queen Elizabeth II: Her Life in Style
The Kings Gallery, Buckingham Palace.
From 10th April until 18th October

2026 marks what would have been the 100th birthday of two of modern histories most iconic women – Queen Elizabeth II and Marilyn Monroe – to mark this there are two individual exhibitions opening in celebration of their lives. Firstly, Queen Elizabeth II : Her Life in Style opens in April at the Kings Gallery – I am excited to see highlights from her wardrobe and how fashion created her enduring image.

UK art exhibitions 2026 - Queen Elizabeth II: Her Life in Style
Queen Elizabeth II: Her Life in Style

Marilyn Monroe: A Portrait
National Portrait Gallery.
From 4th June until 6th September

The second, Marilyn Monroe: A Portrait will bring together photograph and works inspired by Marilyn. She is one of the most recognisable figures of the 20th century but works depicting her are varied from when she was a teen model to later more poignant images.

UK art exhibitions 2026
Marilyn Monroe: A Portrait

Hawai’i: a Kingdom Crossing Oceans
British Museum, London
From 15th January until 25th May 2026

“Hawai’i: A Kingdom Crossing Oceans at the British Museum is not to be missed! Exhibitions about Hawaii are very rare in the UK, so this is a golden opportunity to learn about the complex historical relationship between the two countries and Hawaii’s rich culture.”

Hawai’i: a Kingdom Crossing Oceans
Hawai’i: a Kingdom Crossing Oceans

National Trust Jewellery on Display
Nationwide, National Trust Properties.

I was amazed and delighted last year when my local National Trust property, Calke Abbey, announced that they would be putting their previously unseen jewellery collection on display. This incredible selection of jewels are reflective of the Harpur-Crewe family’s history of exploration in Ancient Egypt, and high society lifestyle – with bespoke Egyptian Revival pieces made by Collingwood & Son, set with Egyptian agate beads gathered by Vauncy Harpur Crewe in 1870, and a sensational red topaz and aquamarine brooch purchased in 1836. A collection well worth seeing, and indeed many more at properties throughout the UK – Killerton House in Devon has a ‘History off the Hanger’, and further pieces on display at Erddig in Wrexham, Sissinghurst in Kent, Wallington in Northumberland, Tyntesfield in North Somerset, Belton House in Lincolnshire, and many properties across the UK.

National Trust Jewellery on Display
National Trust Jewellery on Display

Made in Ancient Egypt
The Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge.
Running until 12th April 2026

The Fitzwilliam Museum are displaying a fantastic selection of Ancient Egyptian artefacts until April, including ceramics, sculpture, and yes- jewellery. This exhibition is the first to explore Ancient Egypt through the lives of its craftspeople- with many objects never before displayed in the UK. 

Made in Ancient Egypt The Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge.
Made in Ancient Egypt at The Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge.

Stubbs: Portrait of a Horse
The National Gallery, Room 1
Running until 31st May

Another exhibition I am keen to see, which strays into our paintings specialists’ territory, is the George Stubbs exhibition at The National Gallery. Showcasing two of Stubbs’ most monumental works, of Scrub and Whistlejacket – two of the first life-size portraits to depict horses without a human presence in British History.

Stubbs: Portrait of a Horse The National Gallery
Stubbs: Portrait of a Horse at The National Gallery

Winston Churchill: The Painter
The Wallace Collection.
From 23rd May – 29th November

My recommendation is an upcoming exhibition at the Wallace Collection, dedicated to Winston Churchill’s paintings. In painting, Churchill found a respite from public pressures and a source of joy that spanned his lifetime. Displaying 50 of his works together, with just under half from private collections, this exhibition is the most comprehensive display of his work to date.

Winston Churchill: The Painter at The Wallace Collection.
Eterna Watches

Eterna Watches: The Brand Behind Modern Automatic Movements

Last week, whilst visiting clients on a job in Switzerland, we passed by a striking, brutalist designed storefront for Eterna Watches. Whilst this charming jewellery shop is no longer an authorised retailer for the brand, it has inspired me to write an article on the brand, its history and significance in modern watches, and value in today’s market.

The history of Eterna Watches

Eterna’s story begins in 1856 with Dr Joseph Girard and Urs Schild, who began creating watch movements. Working from Grenchen under the name Dr Girard & Schild, the company continued exclusively producing movements until the 1860s. As the profitability of movements began to decrease, the company began to produce complete timepieces, with their first pocket watch presented in 1876. It was a few generations later in 1906 that the Eterna name was added to the company name: “Eterna-Werke, Gebrüder Schild & Co.”

The early 20th century saw Eterna’s watch production continue to evolve, and in the 1940s, this company was crucial in solving the final piece of the automatic movement puzzle.

Eterna-Matic

Crucially, Eterna included low-friction ball bearings to their automatic movements, mounting the rotor with the necessary support for smooth operation, even under extreme conditions. Named the ‘Eterna-Matic,’ it was this ball bearing mounted rotor which revolutionised the automatic movement. These balls can be seen in the brand’s logo, gracing every dial. Even today, 99% of automatic watches benefit from this innovation by Eterna (FHF, 2026).

ETA Movements

Eterna founded ETA, the largest manufacturer of Swiss watch movements in 1932. To this day, ETA is the one of the largest ebauche movement manufacturers, and is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Swatch Group. They produce an estimated five million movements per year, supplying both to the Swatch Group and competitors. ETA movements have been used in Panerai, Cartier, Baume & Mercier, Sinn, Montblanc, Hublot and countless others.

Kontiki

Perhaps Eterna’s most instantly recognisable line, the Kontiki was launched in 1958, to commemorate the expedition of the same name from Peru to Polynesia. The Super Kontiki was launched two years later in 1960, with a dive focussed design. Pristine Kontiki watches from the 1960s and 70s are amongst the most valuable. This example of a 1970s Super Kontiki ref. 130 FTP-4 is currently listed on Chrono 24 for just under £9,500.

a 1970s Super Kontiki ref. 130 FTP-4 is currently listed on Chrono 23 for just under £9,500.
A 1970s Super Kontiki ref. 130 FTP-4 is currently listed on Chrono 23 for just under £9,500.

Lady Eterna

Eterna continued to evolve their ball-bearing mounted rotor movements, and in the first instance miniaturised for function within ladies watches, resulting in the ‘Lady Eterna,’ the movement powered with a 23 carat gold rotor – named the ‘golden heart’ and stylishly advertised in the 1950s by Italian actress Gina Lollobrigida.

Gina Lollobrigida advertising the Eterna watches in the 1950’s
Gina Lollobrigida advertising the Eterna watches in the 1950’s

Sadly, owing to contemporary watch trends, and of course the mounting price of precious metals, many of these gold bracelet watches are either unworn or scrapped. Therefore, the insurance valuation figures on these pieces are only fractionally over their weight price on the second hand market

Eterna Dirty Dozen

Notably, Eterna was one of the twelve watch companies tasked with producing watches for military production by the British MoD. Of the twelve, Eterna was the maker with the second lowest production, creating around 5,000 pieces (compared to 25,000 produced by Omega). As such, Eterna Dirty Dozen watches on the secondary market continue to maintain their value. At the time of writing, we would recommend an insurance value in the region of £4,000.

Eterna Dirty Dozen

Contemporary Eterna Watches

Nowadays, releases from Eterna are supplied through a few authorised stockists in the UK, aimed at the mid-market. Examples include the 18ct rose gold Eterna Soleure ref. 8310.69.10.1776 retailing at £6,750, and the Eterna 1973 Super Kontiki Automatic Watch ref. 1973.41.41.1230, retailing at £2,290.

Eterna Super KonTiki Limited Edition 1973
Eterna Super KonTiki Limited Edition 1973
Eterna Soleure gentleman’s wristwatch
Eterna Soleure gentleman’s wristwatch

For information about our watch valuations, or to enquire about an updated appraisal from our specialist team, contact our office at [email protected] or call us on 01883 722 736.

Why Watch Box and Papers Matter for Your Insurance Valuation

Why Watch Boxes and Papers Matter for Your Insurance Valuation

When arranging an insurance valuation, the watch box and papers that accompany your timepiece can make a meaningful difference. Original packaging and documentation help valuers verify authenticity, confirm details about the watch and ensure the correct replacement value is recorded in your valuation report.

Why Watch Box and Papers Are Important for a Watch Valuation

Paperwork acts as a ‘birth certificate’ of the watch, and on a commercial level helps to authenticate timepieces. They verify details of the watch, such as model number, serial number, time and location of purchase. As such, on the secondary market, watches with paperwork secure higher retail returns as a result of higher buyer confidence. Many collectors will not consider purchasing a watch without paperwork. When replacing from the Secondary Market, as is the case for models with long waitlists, a watch with a ‘full set’ is the closest and most immediate solution for New For Old Value. The absence of these, unfortunately, forces us to look for comparables with similarly lacking accompaniments.

As an example: the Rolex Daytona ref. 116506

On Chrono 24: A 2017 example with box, no papers. Listed at £60,999
On Chrono 24: A 2017 example with box, no papers. Listed at £60,999
Two 2017 examples in the UK with complete sets, listed on average at £79,915.
Two 2017 examples in the UK with complete sets, listed on average at £79,915.

This exercise (figures from 9.3.26) demonstrates a 31% uplift in value for the same watch, with the presence of paperwork. This is not an isolated example, across the board, watches without paperwork, even from the same year, condition, boxes present, will generally be listed on the secondary market for a fraction of their counterparts with full paperwork.

As valuers, we need to independently verify the existence of these accompaniments, record them, photograph them and include them in our description of your watch. If boxes and paperwork can be presented together with the watch at the time of the valuation, this will save time and additional administration requirements post valuation. It will also prevent you, in the case of the Daytona ref. 116506, being 31% underinsured.

Here are examples of paperwork that our valuers would be looking for during your watch valuation:

Rolex

Rolex ‘box and papers’ means the complete set included with the watch when sold at retail – this can include additional links, swing tags, Guarantee Worldwide Service Manual, Model Guides, Anchor tags, all depending on model and year purchased.

The appearance and design of Rolex ‘papers’ has changed over the years, from a folded paper certificate, to the modern technologically advanced cards of today. It is worth noting that paperwork for vintage Rolexes up until the 2000’s can vary in design from model to model, year, and location of sale, but below is a typical example of a more modern Guarantee from the brand.

Pre 2006:

The pre 2006 Rolex papers are printed on folded paper. These documents have features such as the perforated or embossed serial number, dealer details from where the watch was originally purchased from, the date of sale, land code, and a watermark that can be seen when held to bright light.

pre 2006 Rolex paper

2006 - 2020

From 2006, Rolex introduced a plastic card to replace the paper certificate. These cards were white and green, with a hologram visible under UV light, containing details of the retailer, date of purchase, land code, and purchaser to one side, with the watches model and serial numbers to the other side.

Rolex 2006 plastic card
Rolex 2006 plastic card (Front)
Rolex 2006 plastic card (Back)
Rolex 2006 plastic card (Back)

2020 to present

The most recent warranty card from Rolex was released in 2020. This card removed much of the information found on previous cards, as data was stored electronically. The details remaining on these cards are the model number, serial number, and date of original purchase.

Design features include a holographic strip visible under UV light, as well as a chip within the card that directs a mobile phone to a secure part of Rolex’s website to access further details. These new technologically advanced features made forgeries much more difficult, and increased a level of privacy to the paperwork, no names, addresses or country codes were any longer instantly visible.

Rolex warranty card 2020 to present
Rolex warranty card 2020 to present (Front)
Rolex warranty card 2020 to present
Rolex warranty card 2020 to present (Back)

Rolex Service Paperwork:

If your watch has been sent to Rolex for a service, they will return with an International Service Guarantee, detailing the model number, serial number, and date of service. These are laminated cards, and make no replacement for the original warranty card in terms of value, but evidence and history of Rolex servicing all helps our valuers to put together a true picture of the watch history.

Rolex International Service Guarantee

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe issues a Certificate of Origin with each of its timepieces, in the form of an A4 certificate, printed and signed with details such as the reference number, serial number, movement information, and design features: dial, case, bracelet and gemstones. This folded form is typically housed within a brown folded leather pouch, underneath the box.

Patek Philippe issues a Certificate of Origin
Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet paperwork has varied over time, but Certificate of Origin and Warranty Cards typically contain the information needed to support a valuation. Below is an example of a printed booklet-style certificate of origin, including reference and serial numbers, case numbers, movement details, date of original sale and retailer information.

Audemars Piguet digital warranty card
Audemars Piguet digital warranty card
Audemars Piguet Certificate of Origin

From 2020, Audemars switched to digital warranty cards, a plastic card with QR code that scanned to verification of a watch’s authenticity and warranty period.

Omega

Omega watches are supplied with a warranty card, which includes the serial number, watch reference number, the date of purchase and the retailer details. Other cards included in a full set include the Master Chronometer and Pictograms card, each also detailed with the watch reference and serial numbers.

Omega Watch - Warranty Card, Master Chronometer and Pictograms cards.
Omega Watch - Warranty Card, Master Chronometer and Pictograms cards. (Front)
Omega Watch - Warranty Card, Master Chronometer and Pictograms cards.
Omega Watch - Warranty Card, Master Chronometer and Pictograms cards. (Back)

Here are examples of other brands ‘Paperwork’

Cartier

Contemporary Cartier ‘paperwork’ is in the form of a plastic card, or a folded booklet for earlier watches.

Cartier plastic card
Cartier plastic card
Cartier folded booklet
Cartier folded booklet

Hublot

Contemporary Hublot paperwork is in the form of a black card, embossed with the reference and serial numbers plus logo hologram to front, and written or stamped detailing to the reverse.

Hublot black card (Back)
Hublot black card (Back)
Hublot black card (Front)
Hublot black card (Front)

Breitling

From 2013, Breitling started using electronic warranty cards, each with an RFID chip that can be read by devices at authorised dealerships. These are thick, plastic cards, displaying the watch model details, serial number and warranty information.

In 2020, Breitling introduced their blockchain-based digital passport as their paperwork. Accessed by scanning the QR code to the top right hand side of the paperwork, this provides a digital certificate of ownership.

Brietling Electronic Warranty Card from 2013
Brietling Electronic Warranty Card from 2013 - 2020
Brietling Electronic Warranty Card from 2020 onwards
Brietling Electronic Warranty Card from 2020 onwards

Franck Muller

Franck Muller Certificate of Origins are typically a folded A4 certificate, written or stamped with the watch details, and typically housed within a folded leather pouch.

 

We hope this guide helps you in your preparation for a valuation. If you have any queries, or need any help on locating or identifying paperwork for any other watches not listed above, do get in touch with our team.

Franck Muller Certificate of Origins
Franck Muller Certificate of Origin
Wuthering Heights

Wuthering Heights Jewellery: Antique Pieces and Modern Interpretations

This year’s hotly anticipated Valentine’s Day blockbuster is upon us! Something our specialists have paid particular notice to has been the jewellery worn in the run-up to the film, at previews, interviews and press engagements. With film preview tours becoming much more thematic in styling, we are delighted that this has now extended to the jewellery worn in the promotion of the film, with antique, sentimental and storied pieces on display. Here are some of our highlights:

Brontë Hair Bracelet

Significantly, Margot Robbie wore a replica of Charlotte Brontë’s hairwork and garnet memorial bracelet, woven with Anne and Emily’s hair. Housed at the Brontë Parsonage Museum, this sentimental piece was painstakingly replicated by Haworth-based Wye Weaving, and formed the inspiration for her hairwork dress by Dilara Findikoglu.

A replica of Charlotte Brontë’s hairwork and garnet memorial bracelet, woven with Anne and Emily’s hair.
A replica of Charlotte Brontë’s hairwork and garnet memorial bracelet, woven with Anne and Emily’s hair.

Taj Mahal Diamond Necklace

Fitting for a Hollywood romance film (however gothic) – Margot Robbie wore the historic Taj Mahal diamond necklace. Set with a central heart shaped diamond, inscribed with Persian text Love Is Everlasting, this significant stone was believed to have been gifted by Mughal Emperor Jahangir to his wife Nur Jahan in the early 17th century. It passed to his son, Shah Jahan, who famously built the Taj Mahal in memory of his wife. Fast forward three hundred years, the diamond was set by Cartier and purchased by Richard Burton as a gift to Elizabeth Taylor for her 40th birthday in 1972. A deeply storied and highly romantic piece, it is not without controversy, and sold at Christie’s in 2011 for $8 million which was rescinded – resulting in a law suit between Christies and Elizabeth Taylor’s estate.

The Taj Mahal Diamond Necklace by Cartier, sold in 2011 for $8 million.
The Taj Mahal Diamond Necklace by Cartier, sold in 2011 for $8 million.
Margot Robbie at the Wuthering Heights World Premiere
Margot Robbie at the Wuthering Heights World Premiere

The Duchess of Devonshire’s Cartier Opal Tiara/Necklace

Director Emerald Fennell (daughter of jewellery designer Theo Fennell) wore a spectacular black opal and diamond necklace by Cartier, loaned by Sotheby’s and featuring in their upcoming auction. This piece was commissioned by Lady Mary Cecil as a tiara for King George VI’s coronation in 1937. Lady Mary went on to become the Duchess of Devonshire just one year later. The piece was on display last year as part of the V&A’s Cartier Exhibition, but has not been worn in pubic in over 70 years, and is estimated at £700,000 – £1,000,000. Following Bonhams’ 2025 sale of the Cartier Astor Tiara for £889,400 it will be interesting to see the result for this significant piece.

Cartier Black Opal and Diamond Tiara, estimated at £700,000-1,000,000
Director Emerald Fennell
Director Emerald Fennell

Cece Jewellery

Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi commissioned matching signet rings from Cece Jewellery to commemorate their roles. With enamel skeleton detailing, and the book’s famous line “Whatever our souls are made of, his and mine are the same…”

Cece Jewellery personalised signet rings, from £10,000.
Cece Jewellery personalised signet rings, from £10,000.
Cece Jewellery personalised signet rings, from £10,000.

Jessica McCormack

During the run-up to the premiere, Margot wore a few pairs of Jessica McCormack earrings, the antique inspired ‘button back’ and ‘gypset’ settings worked particularly well with the Gothic Victorian inspired styling of the film.

Robbie also wore a pair of heart shaped ruby gypset earrings by Jessica McCormack, retailing at £6,750, a pair of diamond and pearl cut-down earrings, retailing at £6,000, and a custom-made pair of garnet, pearl and diamond drop earrings.

Diamond and pearl cut-down earrings retailing at £6,000.
Heart shaped ruby gypset earrings by Jessica McCormack retailing at £6,750.
Heart shaped ruby gypset earrings by Jessica McCormack retailing at £6,750.
Custom made garnet, pearl and diamond drop earrings.
Custom made garnet, pearl and diamond drop earrings.

Barron London

Creating the soundtrack for the film, Charlie XCX was not to be outdone with her jewellery. She attended the premiere wearing exquisite jewels sourced from Barron London, including a pair of Burmese sapphire and diamond earrings in platinum, and a 6.02ct old mine cut diamond ring. These remarkable gems were paired with a custom pink gown by Erdem.

Burmese Sapphire and Diamond Earrings from Barron
Burmese Sapphire and Diamond Earrings from Barron London
Charlie XCX at The Wuthering Heights Premiere
Charlie XCX at The Wuthering Heights Premiere

To arrange a jewellery valuation, call us on 01883 722736 or email us at [email protected].