Keep on Running…a look at the Sneaker (Trainers!) Collector’s Market

Why do people collect? Sometimes it can be a fascination with a subject matter, and sometimes a desire to be a completist – to own everything produced by a certain artist, or manufacturer.

A few years ago, I was asked to value a sneaker (that’s trainers here in the U.K.) collection and my eyes were opened to a burgeoning sub culture that is on the increase and shows absolutely no sign of abating.

The collection comprised around 250 pairs of mint (‘boxfresh’ in sneaker speak) shoes that had been bought as art pieces and collectables, rather than something anyone would ever dream of wearing. It included rare pieces from manufacturers that we all know, such as Nike and Adidas but with particularly limited runs and designed by musicians and traditional artists.

The collector was keen to tell me about the way in which the market has changed over the years, and nowadays it involved waiting in line at a retailer and being allowed to purchase only one pair of sneakers. On some occasions, he had recruited friends to go with him so that he could buy more than one pair. The value of the shoes traditionally doubled as soon as they left the store and could be seen for sale on internet sites within hours.

signed pair of Nike Air Jordan 1s

Signed pair of Nike Air Jordan 1s

For insurance, the collection was valued at £480,000. This no doubt will have changed in the last 24 months, with markets changing in the same way as traditional art and new designers dominating the hierarchy of sneaker chic, it’s a culture that just keeps on running…
Even Sotheby’s on-line store features a trainers section. In fact, the signed pair of Nike Air Jordan 1s above have become the most expensive trainers sold at auction, fetching over £460,000 at their online auction of 17 May 2020.

The Nike Air Jordan 1s were game-worn by Michael Jordan in 1985 after being made exclusively for the legendary NBA Chicago Bulls player.

Nike Air Mag Back to the Future 2016 – £26,500

One of recent year´s most famous sneakers – owned by, for example, the Slovakian rapper Rytmus. This reference to the legendary movie Back to the Future was released back in 2011 in a quantity of 1500 pairs. Several years later, in 2016, fans demanded a re-release, which they got – but only 89 more pairs were made, which pushed the Nike Air Mag Back to the Future 2016´s into the top 10 of the most expensive sneakers

Nike Air Mag Back to the Future 2016

Nike Air Mag Back to the Future 2016

Nike Moon Shoe – over £330.000

This shoe was designed by Nike´s co-founder Bill Bowerman for the 1972 Olympics qualifiers. It’s the only remaining preserved pair of this shoe, and it is also unique because the sole was literally made in a waffle maker!The sneakers were auctioned off at Sotheby’s by collector Miles Nadal in July 2019, officially making them the world’s most expensive shoes for many.

Nike Moon Shoe 1972

Nike Moon Shoe 1972

Converse Fastbreak, worn by Michael Jordan – £144,000

This is where we start reaching astronomical prices. This crazy price tag wasn´t caused by the sneaker´s rarity or the use of expensive materials. The third pair on our list was owned by Michael Jordan himself – he won the 1984 Olympic games in the USA in these shoes.

Converse Fastbreak worn by Michael Jordan

Converse Fastbreak worn by Michael Jordan

Air Jordan 12 OVO (Drake Edition) – £75,600

What you see in front of you is the result of a collaboration between the Jordan brand and rapper Drake’s brand OVO (October’s Very Own). At first glance, they don’t seem like anything special. However, at a Toronto Raptors game, Drake gave a pair of these sneakers (with a retail price slightly over $200) to one lucky fan, who managed to sell the shoe for an incredible $100000 on eBay, which made them the second most expensive Jordan sneaker at the time. A lesson to be learned from this is that going to a Toronto Raptors game might be worth it, not only for the entertainment value.

Air Jordan 12 OVO Drake Edition

Air Jordan 12 OVO Drake Edition

 

Out of the Closet – are your clothes insured adequately?

As a general valuer, I still find it remarkable that the most shut off and private room of the house, is usually the one that hides the biggest mistakes, faux pas, successes, lucky finds – and ultimately valuable items in the property.

The humble wardrobe has for years been the item that comes last in a hierarchy of importance throughout the home – after paintings, sculpture and antiques it would almost seem vulgar to add up those collections of cashmere jumpers and boxed sets of Agent Provocateur underwear that you haven’t quite found the right time for.


So why is the wardrobe often overlooked? One could argue that accumulation plays a big part in this – if a client spends £2000 on a coat, would they contact their broker? Maybe not, but after five years of a new winter warmer every year, that figure starts to rise rapidly…also clothing just being a functional item went out in The Stone Age, clothes have been about style, exclusivity, and quality for centuries and that has created a fairly modern phenomenon – the clothes collector.

Whilst we all have items in the closet that hardly ever get used (for me it is a pair of trainers, used exclusively from January 1st – 7th annually, and a rather ill-advised pale blue suit bought for a garden party in the mid noughties) there are clients of mine that seasonally will spend over £100,000 on clothing and it will only be worn once or twice – this isn’t unusual, and strangely it seems to be becoming more common.

If you haven’t read my previous article on Birkin handbags, please do – it will give you an insight into this fascinating subject and go some distance to explaining why these items receive so much attention and earth-shattering prices. Shoes for many people fall into a similar category of not just simple things that you purchase and wear, but footwear that is lusted after, desired, and envied.

With all of these things considered, does that mean that every HNW client has £1,000,000 of clothing – no, but what it does mean is that a lot of these clients have not considered that the suit they had made at Henry Poole will no longer cost them £2,000, and that pair of Ferragamo’s may have even doubled since they bought them before that cruise, even a simple pair of jeans is almost £100 these days, and I wonder how many people have factored in swimwear or scarves?

What is very clear is that today’s collectables can be displayed, or worn and they all can still change value at an astonishing rate and need to be reviewed regularly. One of my current favourite trends is the astonishing market for rare basketball sneakers (that’s trainers in English) where the secondary market surpasses even Rolex for the biggest increase in value as soon as they walk, or at least are carried out of the shop.

Whilst a valuer cannot go through every drawer in a dressing room, it’s important to establish the client’s taste and style. Getting to know the client and their spending habits is vital to an accurate valuation – that and a keen eye for a pair of Gucci loafers…