Tag Archives: silver

The Quaich – A Scottish Symbol of Unity, Trust and Friendship

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As the end of November draws closer we look forward to St Andrews Day in Scotland. All across the world those with Scottish heritage celebrate the life of the patron saint, St Andrew. A celebration steeped in history, it is common belief that Andrew became the patron saint in 1320, following the declaration of Scottish independence.

St Andrew was known for his generosity, which is reflected today in the warmth and kindness of the Scottish people. How better to celebrate this occasion every year than with an often raucous celebration with music, food and of course a wee dram!

An 18th century wooden Quaich with applied silver plaque of Culloden interest. Sold for £7,560, Lyon & Turnbull, Edinburgh, 16 August 2023.
An 18th century wooden Quaich with applied silver plaque of Culloden interest. Sold for £7,560, Lyon & Turnbull, Edinburgh, 16 August 2023.

An 18th century wooden Quaich with applied silver plaque of Culloden interest. Sold for £7,560, Lyon & Turnbull, Edinburgh, 16 August 2023.

Traditionally whisky would have been taken from the quaich and passed round person to person. Deriving from the Gaelic word Cuach ; cup, this shallow two-lugged bowl originated in the Highlands. Brought out at gatherings, opposing clans would pass the quaich around to inspire trust and toast the beginning of new friendships.

The quaichs of the 16th century were formed of sections of wood, often in sycamore or yew. These staves were bound together with willow (withies) the woods often alternating, sometimes to include laburnum. Due to this method of construction, along with age and use, these rare, early quaichs are usually subject to some damage.

As the years progressed silversmiths began to add silver mounts and handles to these wooden forms perhaps for practical reasons for strength, then as time passed as a show of wealth. The 17th century saw the appearance of quaichs in silver. Harking back to the past, these beautiful examples of craftsmanship were often engraved to simulate the form of the original on which they were based. They can be found chased with vertical lines to imitate the staves and horizontal lines for the bindings. Some finer examples depicted flowerheads, stylised foliage and at times betrothal initials to the lugs.

Two handled silver Quaich by David Mitchell, Edinburgh, 1737 - 1738, inscribed ‘AS 1737 MW’ National Museum of Scotland.
Two handled silver Quaich by David Mitchell, Edinburgh, 1737 - 1738, inscribed ‘AS 1737 MW’ National Museum of Scotland.

Two handled silver Quaich by David Mitchell, Edinburgh, 1737 – 1738, inscribed ‘AS 1737 MW’ National Museum of Scotland.

It is documented that in the 19th century Sir Walter Scott offered his guests drams in silver quaichs at many of his gatherings. One of the more important quaichs in his collection was the Waterloo Tree Quaich. Constructed in part from wood that had allegedly been taken from the Waterloo Elm, when he visited the battlefield following The Battle of Waterloo. As for personal favourites his most beloved quaich was said to be an example made of seven bands of wood, which is believed to have been in the possession of Bonnie Prince Charlie when he made the gruelling journey from Edinburgh to Derby in 1745.

Contemporary quaichs, often embellished with Celtic knotwork and mythical beasts are still a popular gift to commemorate important occasions in Scotland, indeed following the 2014 Commonwealth Games in Glasgow, a wooden quaich was awarded to each winner.

To this day the quaich holds a special meaning to Scots – as a connection to their ancestors, and a link to their homeland.

Undoubtedly this fascinating vessel will always be remembered for its original purpose as a Highlander’s welcome, a cup to be shared by clan chiefs and crofters alike. The iconic quaich lives on, reminding us of the importance of hospitality, love and friendship.. Sláinte!
Please do contact us should you require an updated valuation of your silver collection.

A contemporary silver Quaich, with stylised thistle detail to lugs. From a selection available at Hamilton & Inches, 87 George Street Edinburgh, £795.

A contemporary silver Quaich, with stylised thistle detail to lugs. From a selection available at Hamilton & Inches, 87 George Street Edinburgh, £795.

Please do contact us should you require an updated valuation of your silver collection by calling us on 01883 722736 or email [email protected].

Silver's time to shine

Silver’s Time to Shine: How Rising Prices and Unique Pieces are Reviving the Market

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Over the last few years, the silver market has perhaps been viewed as a rather quiet part of the art market, reliable but somewhat disregarded.

You may remember Woody in one of the later Toy Story movies. Silver, like Woody, is proving that you should never write off something just because it isn’t quite as shiny and new as it used to be. It may well prove to be your best bet as a long-term friend.

It is undoubtedly true that some areas have been stagnant. Life-style changes make it unlikely that we are going to see a revival in the taking of tea from an early 20th century silver tea set, or the use of peppers and sugar casters. However, that only paints a partial picture because nothing is ever completely one-dimensional.

I kilo silver bar.

I kilo silver bar.

An article in The Antiques Trade Gazette neatly summarised the situation thus:-

‘The increase in bullion prices can influence antique silver prices in several ways. It can make owning silver appear more attractive as an investment, it can create a sense of urgency among collectors and enthusiasts as prices rise and lastly it can raise awareness of the craftsmanship, beauty, and historical significance of antique silver over other tangible assets.’

There has been much made of the increase in precious metal prices over the last few years. The price of these precious metals is usually tagged to global financial and political stability. The turbulence of recent years has seen a huge increase in the price of some metals, particularly gold. However, this should be counterposed against a reduction in the price of other precious metals notably platinum and palladium. This is largely due to the decline in use of these metals, along with rhodium. These are collectively known as the platinum group metals – PGMs. Car manufacturers have turned to battery powered electric vehicles which do not need PGMs in catalytic convertors causing a downturn in demand, and consequently the raw metal price. For many years platinum prices tracked or surpassed the price of 18 carat gold; at present both platinum and palladium are worth less per gram than 9 carat gold.

A 1962 silver owl mustard pot on sale for £2250.

How does this affect silver?

In September 2019 silver was trading at about £15 per ounce, and by August 2020 it was over £21.60, and as of today it is trading at £23.28. There is much speculation that the price of silver has a long way to rise. Unlike the PGM group metals silver is still widely used in industry, in medical technology, cameras and in the electronics sector in the manufacture of machinery requiring electrical contacts such circuit boards and semi-conductors. What, you may well ask, has this to do with the valuation of domestic silver?

As one silver dealer put it to me recently, much domestic silver is now scrapped to be used to make 1 kilogram bars of silver which are sold to ‘stackers’. These are people who believe that the price of silver will soar when the increasing global demand far outstrips the annual output. What is far more optimistic is a flourishing of rare, novel, ancient, esoteric and unusual pieces. This has seen some stunning prices at auction recently including a set of rare Scottish late 17th century provincial trefid spoons which sold for £13,000 , against an estimate of £3,000 – £5,000, and a stunning George III candelabra centrepiece which made £44,000 at Dawsons last month. This piece had been found in a suitcase under a bed where it had lived for the last 45 years. This is particularly relevant as the auction house revealed that the last insurance valuation has been conducted in 1987. Dawson’s research had partnered it with a similar pair of four branch candelabra sold by Sotheby’s in October 2022. This undoubtedly helped the piece achieve over twice the higher end of the estimate.

Thus, you have high prices because of the inherently high price of silver at the moment, offsetting the lack of interest in some areas of domestic silver; coupled with even higher prices for anything that is a little out of the ordinary or even very splendid as above.

In terms of making sure that insurance values are pegged to the current market, it is worth considering whether good pieces are adequately insured and whether more modest silver may be over-insured. Perhaps some pieces might be better sold if they are only gathering dust in drawers and cupboards rather than being used and enjoyed.

Whatever you decide to do with your silver it is always worth ensuring that you have the best up to date information to help you make informed choices that are right for you and your family.

An American novelty stamp box for sale at Peter Cameron for £425

An American novelty stamp box for sale at Peter Cameron for £425

The rise of the ‘Divorce ring’

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A new phenomenon?

A huge jewellery trend of 2024 has been the rise of the ‘divorce rings,’ propelled into the spotlight by none other than supermodel Emily Ratajkowski. Following her divorce from Sebastian Bear-McClard in 2022, she revealed that she had remodelled her ‘toi et moi’ diamond engagement ring into two separate rings via an Instagram post in March of 2024. The images of these two rings were simply captioned “divorce rings,” signalling and representing a transformation in her jewellery to coincide with the transformation taking place in her life. She explained to Vogue, “The rings represent my own personal evolution… I don’t think a woman should be stripped of her diamonds just because she’s losing a man.”

From the original engagement ring, set with pear cut and princess cut diamonds, Emily commissioned designer Alison Lou to create two separate pieces. Firstly, a single stone ring in a yellow gold setting for the pear to be worn on the little finger, and secondly a three stone ring from the princess cut, with additional trapezoid cut diamonds either side in a bi-colour setting. From one original engagement ring, these two complementary dress rings mark a transformational and empowering moment in her life, as she explained to Vogue “Somehow, these rings feel like a reminder that I can make myself happy in ways I never imagined.”

Although a seemingly fresh and somewhat viral idea of 2024 thanks to Emrata’s Instagram post, the repurposing of sentimental jewellery is nothing new. Throughout the early 20th century, wedding bands themselves were altered by jewellers both in America and the United Kingdom to signify a divorce.

It was Chicago-born Mrs Marina Parke who purportedly invented the notion of the ‘divorce ring’ in 1911, when she had her wedding ring from her husband Fred sized down to wear on the little finger of her right hand – she has been quoted to say that as a result “new acquaintances no longer enquire about your husband, and old friends who have not yet heard of the divorce, perceiving the ring, are saved from embarrassing themselves and you by asking awkward questions”.

In the UK, women were recorded as having their wedding bands altered variously – with zigzags cut through, resizing and worn on the little finger. Designs specifically for the little finger followed, including black enamel sections added to former wedding rings, the addition of a broken Cupid’s bow, or simply the word ‘FREE’ inscribed to the inside of the band. Moving into the 1930s, the divorce ring was “quite glamorous, shaped as a circle of diamonds or pearls, interrupted by a coloured gemstone. The breaking of the circle symbolised the severed marriage union.” (The Times).

The act of repurposing and re-wearing sentimental jewellery in this way does certainly add a degree of autonomy and transformation to a piece. There are of course instances in which remodelling jewellery can decrease value – especially when removed from a designer’s setting, altering an antique jewel, or when the heat of the jeweller’s torch poses far too much of a risk to the gem material encased within. In any case, it is highly recommended to seek advice from a specialist, and of course up-to-date valuations for any items to guarantee sufficient cover for your jewellery both before and after any alterations are made.

Silver for the British Raj in India

A Shining Example of Design

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Silver for the British Raj in India

The period of the British direct rule of India or The British Raj as it was known (1858-1947) closely followed the Indian Rebellion of 1847. The rebellion came about as a result of an accumulation of different factors over time, including resentment over army promotions and deployment abroad, reforms and taxes, so tensions were already running high.

The system of governance was instituted alongside the transfer of the rule of The East India Company to the Crown, which at this point was headed by Queen Victoria. This resulted in the economies of Great Britain and India becoming even more entwined than in the previous years. The construction of improved railways, roads, canals and bridges under British rule greatly eased the transport of raw materials alongside finished products for import and export between the two nations.

Although the British had been in India since the 1600’s, there came the birth of a new middle class around 1880 following this establishment of direct British rule. The residences of this section of society were opulent and of impressive proportions. The acquisition of fine goods and with it the show of affluence and taste within the home became a new pastime. With the timeless beauty and decadent ornamentation, silver was the perfect choice of work of art to showcase.

The first generation of merchants favoured the more elegant and simpler lines of silver of the Georgian era. During the tour of India by the Prince of Wales in 1875/76, he was presented with a fine and elaborately decorated silver tea service, alongside further beautiful items of Madras silver, some of which were produced by the famous and well renowned company of P. Orr and Sons.

After arriving in Madras in 1843, Peter Orr and brother Alex found work with Gordon & Co as watchmakers, (their original business in Edinburgh) taking over the business in 1849 following the retirement of the owner. Business flourished and it became the most prominent and well thought of silversmith company in Southern India. Silver produced in and around Madras is normally decorated in what’s known as the Swami style, often depicting Hindu gods within sacred scenes.

Following the return to Britain of the Prince of Wales, the fine tea service was exhibited to much acclaim. The Colonial and Indian Exhibition which took place in South Kensington in 1886 is reputed to have attracted an incredible 5.5 million visitors.

Displaying the processes and craftsmanship of their work within the exhibition were a number of Indian artisans which must have been compelling viewing.

The silversmithing companies of India began to be inundated with requests for new commissions for the silver of forms favoured by the British – tea services, punch bowls and salvers amongst others. But change was in the air and the taste for the Indian style of ornate and richly embossed decoration grew even further. These sumptuous items now adorned the homes of British families in many cities of India.

The major cities and surrounding villages had design and ornamentation often peculiar to the area which these days may make them instantly recognisable although designs and details were copied all over!

The silver of Lucknow often depicted scenes of a hunt before a jungle background, they also sometimes had the charming presence of a ‘hallmark’ engraved on the underside, often an elephant or peacock.

Kutch silver is usually very ornate and profusely embossed with scrolling foliage, often with a blank cartouche.

The highly regarded company of Oomersee Mawjee, based in Bhuj, produced a fantastic quality of work and was another favourite silversmiths, with commissions coming from high-end companies such as Liberty & Co.

The well-established firm of Birmingham silversmiths, Elkington and Company, started producing items based on Kutch designs after the strict British hallmarking put a stop to the import of some Indian-made pieces. Silver produced in or imported into the U.K has to pass strict tests in which all of the finished products have to contain a minimum of 92.5% pure silver. Much Indian silver was of a lower purity so failed to pass the strict tests and was often scrapped.

Normal decoration for silver from Calcutta would be various farming scenes, and often depicted small dwellings amidst palm trees in the background. Dass & Dutt and Hamilton & Co were both well renowned companies working out of Calcutta and much favoured by the Indian aristocracy. The marks of the latter changed over many years but always included a small and charming stamp of an elephant.

Due to Kashmir being famous for textile weaving, the inspiration is apparent on the silver produced here. Often coriander leaves, floral and paisley type patterns form part of the repoussé work, but in addition earlier middle eastern inspiration can be detected.

In the world of silver, fashions have changed countless times over the past years and more recently the taste for richly ornamented goods has dwindled with the popularity of iconic and more restrained mid-century design but these fabulous decorative pieces are testament to the craftsmen of all backgrounds and are an important link to the history of silver production in India.

To see more, visit The Victorian & Albert Museum, which showcases fabulous examples of Indian silver. For further reading on this subject, check out Delight in Design by Vidya Dehejia and Indian Silver 1858-1947 by Wynyard Wilkinson.

an image of 3 oympic medals in bronze, silver and gold from Paris 2024.

Olympic Medals

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The 2024 summer Olympics in Paris is the 33rd Olympics of the modern Olympiad and the third time that Paris has hosted the event; the previous occasions being in 1900 and 1924. Paris is only the third city to have put on the games three time, the other cities being London and Los Angeles.

This year approximately 11,000 athletes will be competing for the gold, silver and bronze medals awarded in each discipline. In the ancient games, Olympians received a wreath formed from an olive branch; and that only for the winner. Nowadays, there is something rather more substantive and enduring as a token of achievement.

The design of the medals is the responsibility of the host city’s organising committee and varies with each iteration of the Games. The first Olympic medals in 1896 were designed by French sculptor Jules-Clément Chaplain and depicted on the obverse, Zeus holding Nike, the Greek goddess of victory; the reverse showed the Acropolis. They were made by the Paris Mint, which also made the medals for the 1900 Olympic Games and are responsible for this year’s medals. The medals for 2024 are currently stored at the Mint prior to of the start of the games.

The tradition of awarding gold, silver and bronze medals was first instigated at the Summer Olympics in 1904 in St Louis, Missouri, although competition place medals were retrospectively awarded to competitors in the 1896 and 1900 games.

It is the International Olympic Committee (IOC) which determine the physical properties of the medals. Although they were rectangular in 1900, in every other year they have been circular. Over time the designs have been honed, originally medals were handed out, then pinned to chests and then finally in 1960 they were hung around the neck; initially with a laurel chain and subsequently on a ribbon. The three tier victory podium was not introduced until 1931. Prior to this, medals were awarded at the closing ceremony with athletes wearing evening dress.

Until 1912, the gold medals were made of gold. This would be prohibitively expensive these days, but they are still made of silver gilt and at current prices the gold medals from the 2020 Olympics held in Tokyo in 2021 are worth about £630. The silver medals are made from sterling standard silver, which is 92.5% silver; and the bronze medals are predominantly copper at about 97% with zinc and tin alloy to give strength.

Sir Steve Redgrave with his five gold medals from 5 consecutive Olympic games.

An Olympic medal is the pinnacle of any athlete’s career and monetary value is irrelevant compared with the physical embodiment of years of training, sacrifice and perseverance. That said, and without seeming crude, in our world we are sometimes required to put prices on the ‘priceless.’

In Paris this year the successful athletes will be receiving medals that symbolise the motto of the modern Olympics, ‘ Faster, Higher, Stronger – together.’; medals made from gold, silver, copper, tin and zinc. I suspect however, that the athletes might view them as the embodiment of blood, sweat and tears.

 

Clyde Purnell’s 1908 Olympic Games gold medal for football fetched £18,000 (plus premium) at auction in June 2024. This medal, produced prior to 1912, is made from 15 carat gold, but nonetheless the sale price far exceeds the scrap metal price, which is a little under £1,000.

Swimmer Michael Phelps is the mostdecorated Olympian of all time. He has won 28 medals, 23 of which are gold. He has enjoyed being on the front cover of Sports Illustrated twelve times.

We wish all our Olympians ‘bon courage’ and enjoy Paris.

 

Read more on the history and memorabilia surrounding the Olympics.

Read more articles by Jenny Knott.

Queen Charlotte from Netflix's Bridgerton and Queen Charlotte wearing a parure.

The Power of the Parure

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The release of series 3 of Bridgerton on Netflix has provided viewers with a visual feast – brightly hued costumes, sensational floral displays, grand balls, outlandish wigs, and of course – some fabulous jewellery! Whilst adapted to the modern -day audience and of course not strictly true to Queen Charlotte’s time, this beautiful display of gem-set jewellery should quite rightly draw attention to the truly amazing pieces produced in the late 18th and early 19th century.

Seen throughout the series and most ostentatiously on Queen Charlotte herself is the parure. Deriving from the French ‘parer’ ‘to adorn,’ the Parure refers to a set of jewels intended to be worn together.

The Bridgerton books by Julia Quinn are set between 1813 and 1827, covering the Regency period and beyond. By this time, parures set with precious and semi-precious stones were worn for court and formal occasions, with an abundance of jewellery at the very height of fashion.

Jewellery in Bridgerton - Queen Charlotte

The finest parures and demi-parures would consist of hair ornaments, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, bodice brooches and stick pins set with aquamarine, topaz, citrine and amethyst. Owing to their age, many parts and the frequent remodelling of jewellery over time, complete parures in their original form, with fitted cases are relatively rare and ever-increasing in value.

As seen in the aquamarine example above, fashionable, pastel-coloured gemstones such as aquamarine, pink topaz, and golden topaz were set within richly hued cannetille settings. Particularly sought-after at auction and therefore increasing in value are pink and golden topaz, whether in closed or the later open back settings.

A sub-section of Georgian jewellery that can very frequently be undervalued or even be dismissed as costume jewellery is paste jewellery. Although set with glass instead of crystalline material, this colourful and vibrant jewellery is increasingly sought-after by collectors. Paste is a notoriously soft material, prone to scratches and chips particularly if stored with other jewellery, so survivors of paste jewellery from this time command a premium. As seen with the following two examples, blue paste in particular has been performing incredibly well at auctions, but examples in all colours can be found in jewellery boxes up and down the country!

Rivière necklaces have very much had the spotlight on the latest series of Bridgerton, with the ‘diamond of the season’ Francesca Bridgerton adorning an array of these classically elegant and universally adored necklaces. Set with a wide range of gemstones, from diamonds to agates to cameos, the rivière necklace consists of a gently graduated pattern and continues in popularity to the modern day! As seen in the example below, rivière necklaces from this time period are frequently seen with a hoop surmount to the principal stone, allowing for the addition of a drop pendant. Values can depend upon the age, condition, gemstone identity, saturation, settings and carat weight.

For an up-to-date, confidential valuation of your Bridgerton-era jewellery by our nationwide, specialist team, contact us.

Pick of the week highlights of the Bonhams jewellery sale

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I had the pleasure of viewing the upcoming jewellery sale at Bonhams on New Bond Street this week. I received such a warm greeting from an old colleague at the front desk, and proceeded to head to the viewing room. Now, some might say they are too scared or intimidated to walk through these halls, let alone have the audacity to look at a jewellery sale on display. But here’s the secret… It’s open to everyone! And you should take advantage of these viewings. Think of it as a free museum entrance with endless exhibitions of exceptional goods, which have been, more often than not, hidden away from the public for generations.

I had the pleasure of being shown some highlights of this 118 lot sale.

These included a pair of Castellani sapphire bracelets from 1865.

These bracelets of Byzantine inspiration really are beautifully made. Castellani is one of the best when it comes to archaeological revival style jewellery and these pieces are no exception. “To have one bracelet is wonderful but to have two is very rare” said Jean Ghika, Global Head of Jewellery. With an estimate of £25,000 – 35,000, I am sure they will find a new home.

Still in the antique jewellery section of the sale are these spectacular “Night and Day” diamond earrings.

Still in their original box, these earrings can be altered depending on the mood. One can wear the diamonds for a dash of dazzle or cover them up with the cannetille beads. It is an extraordinary piece and statement to earlier craftmanship. They have an estimate of £12,000 – 18,000.

It should come as no surprise that my eye was immediately drawn to an early 20th century Cartier piece: an enamel and diamond fob watch circa 1910.

The delicate purple guilloché enamel is highlighted by a central diamond and a diamond border. The reverse is everything that makes Cartier watches: blue steeled hands, engine-turned dial and attention to detail. The very attractive estimate of £6,000 – 8,000 is bound to call out collectors.

Amongst the highlights is a sapphire and diamond cluster ring, circa 1890 with an estimate of £60,000 – 80,000. Why the price tag? That would be due to the origin of the sapphire: Kashmir with no evidence of treatment. Though a little abraided on the facet edges, a quick repolish would restore this stone and ring to its original glamourous state.

This piece shows once more the importance of getting gems certificated, as origin or colour and clarity can affect its value dramatically. This is even more apparent with the “Toi et Moi” blue and pink diamond crossover ring by Mouawad.

Both diamonds weigh a little over 5 carats, natural Fancy Intense Blue colour, VVS2 clarity and natural Fancy Purple-Pink colour, I1 clarity.

Bonhams says: “It is estimated that as little as 1 in 10,000 gem-quality diamonds extracted from the Earth’s crust show noticeable colour and of these stones, an exceedingly small percentage are blue or pink. The majority of these rare marvels of nature are under 2.00 carats in weight and stones exceeding 5.00 carats, are even rarer. Stones with high intensity colour grades such as ‘Fancy Deep’, ‘Fancy Vivid’ and ‘Fancy Intense’ are considered some of the most desirable colour classifications by GIA.” Due to its rarity the estimate for this ring is £1,000,000 – 1,500,000.

The Bonhams London Jewels sale that was held on 13th June garnered extraordinary results, with a total of £6,590,562, with 78% sold by lot.

Jewellery Remodelling and Rediscovering Lost Treasures

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In an age where sustainability reigns as a paramount concern, the world of luxury is undergoing a profound transformation. Amidst this shift, an ancient practice finds renewed relevance: jewellery remodelling. Beyond mere aesthetics, this artful process breathes new life into forgotten treasures, championing environmental stewardship while indulging in the opulence of the past.

For those unsure of where to begin their jewellery remodelling odyssey, fear not – expert guidance from professionals like Lottie Leigh awaits. With a refined process honed over time, clients are gently ushered through the labyrinth of design possibilities. Even the most uncertain find clarity through collaborative visioning, discovering desires they didn’t know they had. It’s a journey of self-discovery as much as it is about transforming jewels, guided by passion and precision.

A Tradition of Elegance: From Aristocracy to Modernity

The art of jewellery remodelling is steeped in history, tracing its roots back through centuries of opulent adornment. From the courts of European monarchs to the palaces of Asia, this practice has long been a hallmark of aristocratic taste. Notably, the royal family has been a bastion of jewellery remodelling, with illustrious examples found in the treasure troves of the Princess of Wales. Pieces once cherished and now languishing in drawers find new life through thoughtful redesign – a testament to the enduring allure of sustainable luxury.

The Digital Canvas: Bringing Dreams to Life with CAD/3D Design

Innovation meets tradition in Lottie Leigh’s digital atelier, where dreams take shape with unparalleled precision, all driven by you. Here’s how Lottie facilitates this process: Through the marvels of CAD/3D design, you, as the client, assume full control, meticulously crafting every detail of your envisioned piece. Imagine this: a 360-degree image displayed on a screen, granting you the ability to explore and refine your creation to perfection.

But it doesn’t end there. Once your design is finalised, Lottie employs 3D printing technology to materialise it. This means you can not only see but also physically try on your design, ensuring it aligns seamlessly with your style and preferences. After all, being able to see and try on the design before anything is made is paramount. How can you truly know you love something without experiencing it firsthand?

This transformative tool not only streamlines the design process but also transcends geographical barriers, enabling seamless remote collaboration from inception to completion. It’s a modern twist on an ancient art, where imagination knows no bounds.

From Old to New: Trading Unworn Treasures for Fresh Beginnings

For those seeking to breathe new life into dormant jewels, an option exists to trade and upgrade unworn gemstones. Whether it’s diamonds, sapphires, or emeralds or other precious gems, these forgotten treasures find new purpose in bespoke creations. This exchange not only revitalises collections but minimizes environmental impact, aligning with the ethos of sustainable luxury. It’s a journey of transformation – a testament to the timeless allure of reinvention.

In the tapestry of luxury, jewellery remodelling stands as a beacon of sustainability and elegance – a testament to the enduring allure of heirloom treasures and the boundless creativity of human ingenuity. From the hallowed halls of royalty to the ateliers of modern artisans, this artful practice bridges past and present, leaving an indelible mark on both history and the future. As we embark on this odyssey of remembrance and renewal, may each jewel shine brightly, a testament to the timeless union of luxury and sustainability.

Doerr Dallas are delighted to have Lottie share her knowledge and expertise with us and our client base. Many of us have pieces gifted to us by our family members that are sitting in drawers that sadly we do not wear as fashion changes, so having an option to redesign is wonderful.

It is always important to remember that once you have ‘redesigned’ a piece of jewellery the need for re-valuing becomes more important. At the moment, with jewellery prices on the high street increasing; the price of gold going up daily, we are recommending to our clients to update their jewellery valuations if their current valuation was over two years ago.

To arrange a jewellery valuation give us a call on 01883 722736 or email us on [email protected]

 

Easter Eggs

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After extensive, but not wholly onerous research, I have found that the must have luxury chocolate Easter egg for 2024 is the Grande Easter Egg from Betty’s in Yorkshire. Your £375 will allow you to acquire over five kilos of Grand Cru Swiss chocolate made from Venezuelan criollo cocoa beans. Your egg will be applied with iced Spring flowers including narcissi, primroses, pansies and lily of the valley all with hand piped stems. Betty’s have been producing these hand crafted edible masterpieces for over a hundred years.

However, the history of eggs at Easter goes back many centuries. In the 1290 household accounts of Edward I ‘one shilling and sixpence for the decoration and distribution of pace eggs.’ ( Pace being a dialectical term for pashe or pascal.) These were hens’ eggs which had been dyed or coloured and were distributed to members of the Royal household. These eggs would have been wrapped in onion skins and then boiled, when the onion skin was removed the eggs looked as though they had a mottled gilding. The Scandinavians had a similar tradition also using flowers and leaves to produce a pattern.

Throughout Europe eggs were dyed and painted; and eggs were in plentiful supply. Although Shrove Tuesday saw the using up of eggs to make pancakes prior to Lent, no-one told the chickens that eggs were off the menu for the next forty days, so they continued to produce them, resulting in a glut of eggs by Easter. Throughout Europe and beyond the decorating and distributing of eggs has been part of Easter celebrations for hundreds of years.

The White House has a traditional Easter Egg Roll. In 1878 the President Rutherford B Hayes allowed the White House Grounds to be opened on Easter Monday and children were allowed to bring along Easter eggs and roll them on the lawn with a long handled spoon. Today it is a huge event and children can enter a public ballot to attend.

The ultimate Easter egg tradition is that of the Fabergé eggs. Jewelled eggs had been gifted at Easter before 1885. However, Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich, brother to Tsar Alexander III suggested that Peter Carl Fabergé be commissioned to create a Royal egg. The egg, known as the ‘Hen Egg’ was given to the Tsarina, who was thrilled with it. It opened to reveal a golden hen sitting on golden straw and inside the hen was a replica of the Imperial Crown and a ruby pendant. Fabergé had triumphed and Alexander named him ‘goldsmith by special appointment to the Imperial Crown’, placing an order for another egg the following year. The eggs became more ornate and elaborate year after year. The designs did not have to have Royal approval, the only prerequisites were that each should be unique and contain a surprise. The eggs made for the Russian Royal family are known as the Imperial eggs.

A few notable figures, including the Rothschilds commissioned eggs of their own, but these were not numerous. The revolution in 1918, inevitably saw an end to this tradition, although Fabergé in its more recent incarnation still produces egg themed jewellery. Should you wish to purchase your own Fabergé egg pendant this Easter, the 18 carat gold, diamond and enamel Palais Tsarkoye Selo turquoise egg containing an enamel and diamond locket, can be yours for £12,000.

The popularity of gold and silver eggs with novelty surprises may have begun with Fabergé but has been taken up by others. In the 1960’s and 70’s the English silversmith Stuart Devlin acquired a large following for his eggs. They are still popular today and one sold at auction recently with Dreweatts at a hammer price of £1,100.

A longchain suspending numerous French, Austrian and Hungarian egg pendants sold in 2022, as seen in the adjacent images. The finesse of the manufacture, the frequent use of colourful guilloché enamel and the cute novelty surprises inside, helped Bonhams reach a hammer price of £28,000.

If this all seem a little overwhelming perhaps it’s time to consider the more modest Cadbury’s creme egg. Initially sold as the Frys’s creme egg, it became part of the Cadbury family in 1971. They are still only available from New Year’s Day until Easter Sunday and in recent YouGov poll they were ranked as the UK’s most famous confectionery.

We hope that the Easter bunny will bring you your egg of choice and Doerr Dallas wishes you a very happy Easter.

All that Glisters is not Gold

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Since ancient times silver and gold have been highly regarded for their natural beauty, as well as their intrinsic value but why is there such a discrepancy in their values?

Status

Gold has always been seen as a display of wealth, as far back as ancient Greece and Rome the homes of the nobility held impressive collections and women were adorned with exquisite jewellery. A fine example is the pendant below, discovered in Crete in 1930.

Rarity

For every eight ounces of silver that is mined only one ounce of gold is extracted.

The mining of gold is hugely challenging, as well as expensive. Expertise in many areas is needed, including geology and engineering. In fact, less than 0.1% of prospected sites will lead to success with often a wait of up to twenty years before a discovered mine will produce material for bullion.

Investment

The spike in the price of gold during the Coronavirus pandemic of 2020 wouldn’t have come as a surprise to many, in times of economic crisis and catastrophic world events the investment in bullion can be viewed as a ‘safe haven’.

This small 18ct gold case sold at auction for £5,437 in February 2020, working out at £787 per ounce.

As the year progressed and the pandemic hit, gold prices peaked at £1,555 per ounce in August. Had this sold that summer it may have achieved over £10,000.

Also sold in early 2020 was this fantastic Victorian silver table bell achieving £5,062. At only 16cm long this shows how unusual items of vertu are sought after by collectors. Highly celebrated makers like Paul de Lamerie will always be popular but fashions have changed over the past twenty years. Mass produced items like tea services and salvers sell at scrap price, whereas areas such as mid-century and Danish silver continue to rise.

Gold will continue to be the favourite for investment due to the potential for high gain. Investment in silver can be prudent if only you can predict the fashions of the future!

At the time of writing this article the gold price was approximately £1,600 per ounce, silver £18 per ounce.