Cartier and Tiffany rocked at the Golden Globes…

Posted on January 16, 2024August 9, 2024 by Aurélia Turrall

“It’s the most wonderful time of the year…” and I don’t mean Christmas. My favourite time of the year is now, for all the red carpet gowns and jewels. So many impressive pieces displayed at this year’s Golden Globes. This year, I take a look at the two usual suspects that never miss: Cartier and Tiffany & Co., both symbols of chic and glamour, using the finest craftsman and precious gems.

One of my all time favourite actresses is Jennifer Lawrence, and she was faultless with her “simple” velvet gown and diamond-set Tiffany & Co. jewels.

The necklace was composed of a series of princess-cut diamonds, suspending to the front an 11 carat diamond pear-shaped drop. Her earrings were decorated with a total of 6 carats of untreated blue sapphire and diamond surround, mounted in platinum and 18 carat yellow gold. She matched these with a diamond ring and nothing too big which could distract from the Dior clutch.

It was a big year for singer/songwriter Dua Lipa, with a nomination for Best Original Song for the Barbie movie.

She dazzled the crowds with a 1962 gold and platinum Tiffany & Co. necklace. It is set throughout with oval, pear and briolette-cut yellow beryls and brilliant-cut diamonds. A similar piece, dating from 1967, sold in June last year, 2023, at Christie’s for USD $189,000, set with approximately 86 brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing 7.00 carats.

The singer completed her look with a yellow sapphire and diamond cluster ring.

Another very talented singer/songwriter is Jon Batiste. He was superb with a few Tiffany & Co. jewels which sparkled on his Dior suit.

The necklace is from the HardWear collection. It is set throughout with fancy links, each set with brilliant-cut diamonds and mounted in 18 carat yellow gold. This necklace currently retails for £70,000. However, there are several other options retailing from £550 mounted in silver, to £215,500 set with diamonds and mounted in rose gold.

A lovely addition to the necklace was the platinum and 18 carat gold Starfish brooch by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. It is decorated with a three carat aquamarine and diamond surround. The Starfish collection ranges from silver, selling for £365, to yellow gold, retailing at £3,450.

While Tiffany & Co. draped several artists, Cartier High Jewellery was the brand of choice for actress Julianne Moore.

She wore a spectacular gold and petrified wood necklace of reptile inspiration. Composed of 57 links, each set with white and yellow diamonds.

Echoing that style of individual panels is the Panthère de Cartier necklace set with almost 2,000 white, orange, yellow and brown diamonds, totalling just under 40 carats. A truly unique piece and a statement to Cartier’s savoir-faire.

The Panthère collection has several options of bracelets, watches and necklaces.

The actor Jared Leto, usually known for taking daring fashion risks, wore a simple 18 carat white gold and diamond Panthère de Cartier necklace.

It is set with two emerald eyes, 309 diamonds, weighing a total of 3.24 carats and highlighted by calibré-cut onyx. It currently retails for £78,500.

The Panthère collection is as desirable as ever and Cartier will always be a go to jeweller for any red carpet event.

£5k spend – Jewellery Investment Mission

Posted on January 15, 2024January 15, 2025 by Mary Waterfall

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Mary Waterfall, Jewellery Specialist

The Brief: My Great Aunt Winnie has kindly gifted me £5K in her will. However she has also specified that I must spend it on something within my field of expertise, something that I believe will increase in value over the next five to ten years.
The Options:
1) Gold
My immediate thought is that I would invest it in gold. The gold price does fluctuate but over a long period of time it usually increases. As I write this, in the final months of 2020, the gold price is quite high. One of the reasons for this is because of the uncertainty in the stock market due to the COVID 19 pandemic, traditionally when share prices go down, the gold price goes up. My plan would therefore be to wait until the markets stabilise, which could take a year or two, to ensure I’m not buying gold at a price peak time. I would then go to auction and buy gold in the form of Sovereigns, chains etc., put it all in a safe for five to ten years, keep an eye on the markets and look for an opportune time to sell and hopefully profit on the investment. I wouldn’t sell at auction though because I would have to pay commission for the privilege. I would go to a jewellers/dealers who buys gold. Then tend to give you a better price per gram the greater quantity you have.
However, that all sounds very good but I wouldn’t get much enjoyment out of that experience. I don’t really wear plain gold jewellery so it would just be locked away and not looked at. Wouldn’t my Great Aunt Winnie prefer me to buy something I would actually wear and love? So my next thought is:
2) Vintage Designer Jewellery
Historically the vintage jewellery of certain brands, such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, can hold and increase in value. Pieces made in the early to mid-twentieth century can be very desirable and sought after. Clearly it’s a piece by piece case and does not apply to all jewellery made at this time. The ‘rule’ doesn’t necessarily apply to more modern designer jewellery such as the Cartier Love bangle. If you do an auction house online search for these bangles you will see many examples come up. The market is pretty flooded with them at the moment and some of them are the amazingly impressive fakes that are coming out of Dubai, some of which are hard to tell from a genuine bangle if you don’t know what you are looking for.

Fake Cartier Love Bangle

There is also a bit of a myth that if the jewellery is ‘old’ it will naturally increase in value. Again it depends on the piece but generally this is not the case. I was recently asked to value a diamond bangle that had been marketed as ‘Georgian’ and ‘very rare’. However in reality it was a modern piece manufactured in India and was not as valuable as originally thought.
So I know I need to have my wits about me if purchasing at auction. Another question is will I actually find such a piece that is £5k or under because such items can command high prices.
There are a lot of beautiful brooches out there, which were highly fashionable at the time but not so nowadays. I may be tempted by something like these earrings.

Cartier earrings c1970

They are by Cartier, circa 1970 and sold for £3800 plus buyers premium. They are beautifully made, signed and numbered by Cartier and I would wear and enjoy them. However I may also be tempted to extend my search and try and find something within my price range that was made by Cartier slightly earlier.
Conclusion
I think there is more certainty of a profit in strategy one but more fun and enjoyment in strategy two. Which would you choose?
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£5k spend – Jewellery Investment Mission
An unusual item I have valued
My favourite item that I have valued
Caring For Your Jewellery
Chopard
Is it Time to Update Your Jewellery Insurance Valuation?
Van Cleef & Arpels
Emeralds
The House of Graff
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How many 00’s in a pair of 007’s cufflinks?
Rediscovering the Allure of the Cultured Pearl
Diamonds, real and man made
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Discovering Sotheby’s Auction

Posted on November 7, 2023August 9, 2024 by Aurélia Turrall

Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal collection

On the 6th and 7th November, Sotheby’s Geneva will be auctioning some of the finest antique jewellery from the 1900s, described as Belle Epoque jewellery. This collection is unique in that it groups prestigious gems, such as emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and natural pearls, but also in that these pieces have been kept intact all this time. It is becoming increasingly rare to find pieces from over a century ago. Jewels are very often broken up and stripped of their gems and metal. It is, in my opinion, a great shame, as the craftmanship of that period was stunning and very refined.

Belle époque jewels are characterised by bows, ribbons, swags and flowers, and items mounted en tremblant. Meaning to tremble, en tremblant diamond-set flowerheads (for the most part) are attached to a thin metal wire spring which trembles with movement. This gives the illusion of life and allows light to reverberate into the diamonds, bouncing off and reflecting “fire”, all the colours of the rainbows. It is often found on tiaras, brooches or devant de corsage such as lot 1089 of the sale.

Gifted by Philipp, Duke of Württemberg (1838-1917) as a wedding gift to his bride Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria – Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg (1845 –1927 in 1865, it is composed of natural saltwater pearls and approximately 60 – 75 carats of diamonds. It comes with an estimate of CHF270,000 – 450,000 (approximately £245,000 – 410,000).

Selling with the same estimate is a natural pearl and diamond brooch, circa 1865.

It is set with a first button-shaped pearl, measuring approximately 14mm and suspends a larger drop, measuring approximately 19mm. They are highlighted by approximately ten carats of diamonds.

This piece and its estimate are an indication of exceptional provenance but also reinforce the importance of having certificates for unique gems. These two pearls have reports from the reputable laboratory SSEF in Switzerland. When looking to insure or sell, reports will be a key part of valuing an item correctly.

In the example of the above brooch, if the pearls were not natural, its value would be mainly in the diamonds. It is their natural origin that give it a hefty price tag.

What do we call natural pearl?

Natural, as opposed to cultured pearls, are created in the wild, without human intervention. Cultured pearls are grown in farms and commonly are bead nucleated. This means a nacre has been formed around a nucleus as way for the pearl of defending itself. The pearls are then collected anywhere from six months to 3 years depending on the type and environment in which they are grown.

To illustrate further the uniqueness of the pearl and diamond brooch sold by Sotheby’s (above), the retailer Hancocks, who deals with antique jewellery, currently sells a natural pearl and diamond brooch for £22,500 (below). The pearl measures approximately 11mm and there are close to five carats of diamonds.

There are a variety of jewellery for women of course in this sale but also for men. Beautiful emerald cufflinks for example are also for sale.

The above cufflinks are centrally colletset with rose-cut diamonds within a navette-shaped emerald terminal. They belonged to the Tsar of Bulgaria and have an estimate of CHF3,600 – 5,500 (approximately £3,200 – 5,000).

Cufflinks and medals were worn with uniforms for balls, together with neck badges such as the below.

This beautiful gem-set neck badge has an estimate of CHF36,000 – 55,000 (approximately £32,000 – 50,000) and is adorned with a Ceylon sapphire, accompanied by an SSEF report stating it has no indication of heat treatment.

In this instance again, a report is essential and its findings are reflected in the estimate. Heat treatment is often used in sapphires to deepen a stone’s colour and, although a common practise, can detract from a gem’s value. The key factors of quality of this sapphire, together with provenance and other gems in the piece makes it a stunning piece.

This collection embodies the late 19th century, early 20th century era of court, wars and balls with delicate attires and military uniforms. Waltzes and lavish court dinners with men and women draped with the most exceptional jewellery, reflected who they were in society, and if judging by the quality of these pieces, it is no surprise they could have been considered semi-Gods.

On a personal note, I wish great success for this sale in association with Duke Philipp of Württemberg, who I had the extreme pleasure of working with at Sotheby’s.

Nephrite

Posted on September 27, 2023August 9, 2024 by Aurélia Turrall

Nephrite can be found in three major locations: northwestern China, Siberia and British Columbia, though China has been said to provide to best quality nephrite, such as the “mutton fat”.

The mines in British Columbia formed in the Mesozoic, 251.9 to 66.0 million years ago, when Pangea started to separate and dinosaurs walked the planet.

Nephrite, along with jadeite, is often referred to as jade. It comes in an array of colours and can be translucent to opaque.

Although nephrite comes in various colours, it is usually less pronounced than in jadeite. What else differentiates jadeite from nephrite? Their chemical composition to start with. This would be difficult to identify when out shopping for a jade necklace, but jadeite’s composition is: NaAlSi2O6 and nephrite’s is Ca2(Mg,Fe)5Si8O22(OH)2.

The deposits location is also different. Jadeite is only found in Myanmar as opposed to nephrite, which ranges across the borders.

Nephrite is harder than jadeite, making it a good candidate for sculptures.

Nephrite rates 6 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale. The Mohs scale of mineral hardness was created by Friedrich Mohs in 1822 and determines the scratch resistance of minerals when scratched by another mineral.

The Mohs scale is used to manufacture everyday objects: your mobile phone’s screen glass is made of a material that scratches at level 6, some at level 7.

Compared to jadeite, if nephrite chips, it will have a more waxy texture to it and could leave a powdery residue.

Though it may scratch, it is nonetheless a hard gemstone, made up of minuscule interlocking minerals which form a larger one, this is called a metamorphic gem. It was in fact hard enough for when man first made tools.

Due to its relative hardness and arrays of colours in which it comes, it is very sought after. However, jadeite is more valuable than nephrite, but the latter remains a great contender for jewellery pieces and for being carved and polished.

This autumn (2023) Sotheby’s HK is offering for sale the below fire opal, icy jadeite and diamond brooch with an estimate of HKD40,000-50,000 (approximately £4,000-5,000).

Nephrite comes in all shapes and forms. The above is set with two cabochon nephrite. A common and traditional piece of jewellery is the hololith bangle, made out of one piece of stone.

“Bi”, a flat disc with hole in the middle and representing heaven, is also made of one piece of stone.

They can be fashioned into any shape or form, it’s no wonder why they are one of Hollywood’s favourite go to pieces for a chic and understated statement.

Actress Emilia Clarke wore these exquisite earrings to the Emmys, and though they are most likely to be jadeite jade rather than nephrite, there are some affordable pieces retailing with similar spark.

Such as these teardrop earrings selling for £300.

Or this beaded necklace, retailing for £2,500.

If money is not an issue, then perhaps, its counterpart in jadeite jade could be an option, as with the opposing jadeite jade necklace, which sold with Sotheby’s in 2020, for USD 10.4 million.

Perhaps this is the price to pay for a little bit of heaven, as Confucius described jade, and who wouldn’t want that?

Coral…. Did you know?

Posted on August 22, 2023January 3, 2025 by Annabell Parry

There are six types of precious coral from deepest red to porcelain white and none are endangered.

Did you know that Mediterranean Rubrum coral is still dived for by hand by around 50 licenced divers at a depth of 50 metres? Japanese and Taiwanese coral is even deeper; at a depth of 80 metres to 300 metres and can only be harvested by a submersible with strict quotas.

It is reef and shallow water coral, such as golden and black coral, that are endangered. These are known as common coral and reside on the global CITES protection list.

Did you know that coral was used in Rome as early as 1500 BC? It has been used as amulets in the Catholic faith for centuries and revered in Buddhism. To this day it is an expression of status and wealth in Benin in Africa, Poland and Ukraine and it has been used as currency across the world.

In the Mediterranean, coral harvesting has been documented since the 15th century and its secrets and systems were passed down through each generation of a family. This industry was particularly buoyant at Torre Del Greco, a beautiful fishing village on the slopes of Vesuvius. Which for decades in the 1800’s saw almost every local family involved in the coral trade in some form from diving to forming the beads to selling the strings of coral. This development and success of the coral industry at Torre del Greco was arguably thanks to Ferdinand IV of Bourbon, who worked to regulate the fishing of coral from this area of Naples and protect local jobs. He recognised the huge demand for beautiful coral jewellery and religious accessories, the ownership of which was seen as a status symbol across Spain, Italy, Poland and Ukraine, which lasts to this day. Look through several Old Master paintings and you may well find coral pieces to denote protection and wealth.

Even good things come to an end and the Mediterranean monopoly on coral supply was to change in the 1870’s when a different species of coral, ‘Momo’ coral was discovered in Japan and later in Taiwan and Hawaii. These finds would open up coral appreciation to the world and the largest market for coral is now the Far Eastern market.

Collectors are starting to wake up to the beauty of coral that Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpels have been giving to their high net worth clients for over a century.

Precious coral, particularly antique and vintage pieces, are becoming very sought after and gaining good prices at European auctions. Keep an eye out for depth of colour and condition, and a smattering of diamonds is always nice too.

Did you know that the size of coral necklaces depend on the type and size of coral branch? Mediterranean coral can grow up to eight millimetres in diameter, however Midway coral from Hawaii up to 20 millimetres. Each piece of harvested coral from deep in the ocean is cleaned, divided and polished by hand into perfect beads, then matched into earrings and necklaces. It can take over a year to make a larger sized necklace.

There is a huge market in China and the Far East for the top quality Oxblood and Momo coral pieces. So much of the finest coral will make it’s way there and prices rival that of fine jade.

However, you may well have vintage pieces in your jewellery box and I strongly suggest you review their value. It may just surprise you.

The Evolution and History of Diamond Cutting

Posted on August 15, 2023January 3, 2025 by Helen Doyle

Believed to be a gift from God, diamonds were first discovered in India in the 4th Century BC and were recognised for their hardness and strength. They were worn as adornments to ward off evil and provide protection in battle. Diamonds were also used as a medical aid; thought to cure illness and heal wounds when ingested. This was later dismissed, and it was thought that diamonds were highly poisonous; a rumour introduced to stop miners stealing diamonds by swallowing them.

Up until the 18th Century the only known source for diamonds was in India and their value was still considered much less than sapphires and rubies.

Alexander the Great opened a small trade between the East and the West in the mid-4th Century but it wasn’t until much later in the 14th and 15th century when diamonds entered Europe through Venice. They made their way north to Bruges, Antwerp and Amsterdam making these cities bustling diamond centres. It was at this point that European and Indian cutters begin to experiment with diamond cutting.

Point Cut Diamond

The earliest diamond cut is the point cut and was popular in the 15th Century. Cutters used diamond grit and olive oil to simply polish stones in their natural octahedral form. Olive oil was used due to its ability to tolerate the high temperatures caused by polishing.

Below is a diamond crystal in its natural octahedral form and a diamond ring set with multiple polished point cut diamonds.

Point cut diamonds are very rare as many of the original diamonds were re-fashioned as cutting techniques and styles changed. Here is an example of point cut diamond selling at auction for £11,000, well exceeding its pre-sale estimate of £1,800 – £2,400.

The Table Cut

In the mid-15th Century cutters designed the table cut diamond, they used the same polishing methods and simply removed the top point of the octahedral shape to produce a table.

This style of cutting possessed far better optical qualities than its predecessor, with greater brilliance and fire. It also displayed, when viewed from above, the impression of a table within a table, which fitted perfectly with Renaissance Europe’s love of classical proportions. The table cut became far more desirable than the point cut, which is why it is now rare to see examples of the point cut diamond as most were re-fashioned into the table cut.

Throughout the 16th and 17th century, variations of the table cut shape such as rectangles, triangles and tapered diamonds appeared.

Here are some more examples of diamonds with a table cut selling through auction.

The Rose Cut

The early 16th century saw the birth of the rose cut diamond. This made use of the flat rough instead of the octahedral crystal that we have seen so far. It proved the most efficient way to retain the weight of a flat crystal. The flat bottom and faceted domed top proved much more effective at displaying brilliance but not fire.

The Mazarin Cut

After developing and perfecting table and rose cuts, European cutters started to experiment with new cuts and styles. Cardinal Jules Mazarin requested that cutters in Europe designed a faceted diamond. The result was a cushion shaped diamond with 34 facets called the Mazarin cut, also known as the double cut.

The Old Single Cut

The mid-17th century saw the introduction of the single cuts. Like the point and table cut, the single cut resembled the shape of the octahedral rough. It also displayed more potential for brilliance than the table cut because it had more facets. This cut served as the basis for the modern brilliant cut and even today, the single cut is still used on smaller diamonds.

In the early 17th Century, the mines in India were running low on diamond source and European cutters needed more stones to continue experimenting with cuts. Luckily at this time, while miners were panning for gold in Minas Gerais, Brazil, a few odd crystals, and pebbles were found. Not knowing what they had discovered the miners used these stones to keep score during games of cards. It wasn’t until an official saw them that they realised that in fact it was a new diamond source.

The discovery of alluvial deposits in Brazil meant great things for the cutters in Europe. The diamonds rivalled those of India, and Brazil became the main source of diamonds for Europe.

At this time, Europe had a great desire to experiment and evolve the diamond cut, and there was an increasing interest in optical science. With the aid of advanced lighting and the modernisation of technologies, the developments of the first modern brilliant cuts could start to take place.

The Peruzzi Cut

The new rough from Brazil was used to create the first old mine cut also known as the Peruzzi Cut; this has the same number of facets as the round brilliant, but with a high pavilion it resembles a cushion shape. In 1750, a London jeweller called the new style of cut a passing fad and said the classic rose cut would outlast them all.

Today, antique cushion cut diamonds remain extremely popular and sell very well. Here are some examples – notice how almost all exceed their pre-sale estimates.

The round brilliant cut diamond

Years of experimentation with cutting led to the production of the modern brilliant. We can see examples of the modern brilliant cut being traced to the 1800’s. Henry Morse had been trying to achieve the optically efficient cutting design. It was however Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919 who published his PhD thesis called Diamond Design. This used mathematical calculations that considered how to display both brilliance and fire in a diamond. Tolkowsky understood that if a diamond was cut too shallow or too deep that the light entering the stone would leak out of the side; this discovery was achieved by systematically analysing the optics of a diamond. Although this was revolutionary for its time, there have been other claims on the perfectly proportioned diamond. In 1940, Eppler produced the European Cut and later in 1970 The IDC (International Diamond Council) also produced a set of ideal ranges.

Compared Results

These differing proportions are all aiming to show the viewer the perfect amount of brilliance and fire. Brilliance is the reflection of light from the back facets when viewed from the top of the stone. Fire is the splitting of white light into the spectral colours as the light passes through inclined facets.

Altering the angle of the crown will affect the balance of brilliance and fire.

Fancy Cuts

In more recent times we have seen variations of the round modern brilliant cut diamond. Cutters have applied the same perfected proportions displaying great amounts of fire and brilliance and applied them to the Pear and Marquise cuts. The Pear and Marquise cuts have been around for centuries but never before displayed the optimum optical properties. Furthermore, this led to the production of more fancy shapes in the brilliant cut; heart cut and princess cuts are now examples of this. Triangular diamonds cut in this way were even named the Trillion cut.

With many attributing factors that have been considered in the cutting of diamond throughout its evolution; from a polished octahedral crystal through to the brilliant cut diamond displaying fire and brilliance, I wonder what the next seven centuries will bring. Will our future generations look back and consider the brilliant cut diamond a primitive design compared to what this stone, advanced technologies and creative cutters achieve in the future?

Rubies

Posted on July 25, 2023August 9, 2024 by Jenny Knott

Ruby is the birthstone for July

The name comes from the Latin ‘ruber’ meaning red. It is seen as a symbol of love and commitment. In Asia particularly, it is associated with luck, passion and power.

Burmese warriors had rubies set into their armour, as they believed they would offer them protection in battle. Some even had rubies embedded in their flesh for added security.

Rubies, like sapphires, are a form of corundum – the name for aluminium oxide. Unlike sapphires, which come in an array of colours, rubies are always red, and the colour derives from chromium in their chemical make-up. Shades vary from the ultra desirable, but challengingly named, pigeon’s blood ruby to much pinker varieties.

Historically, the most sought after rubies came from Burma (now Myanmar). However, nowadays Mozambique has become one of the largest suppliers of new rubies into the market.

After diamonds, rubies are the hardest of all gemstones and also the most expensive coloured gemstone.

Until recently, ‘The Sunrise Ruby’, which formed the centrepiece of a sensational ruby and diamond ring by Cartier, was the most expensive ruby in the world and the most expensive coloured stone. However, on 8th June 2023 Sotheby’s sold the world’s largest Mozambiquan ruby, which weighs 55.22 carats. It made a world record-breaking $34.8 million, thus becoming the largest and most valuable ruby ever to sell at auction.

The ruby and diamond necklace worn by Julia Roberts in the film Pretty Woman, was said to be worth about $750,000 shortly after the movie was made 30 years ago. The price of rubies has soared since then. Imagine what it might be worth today.

What to wear for Wimbledon

Posted on July 11, 2023January 3, 2025 by Jenny Knott

For Ascot it’s all about hats, at Henley it’s blazers, but what to wear for Wimbledon…?

Let’s start with jewellery and what more fitting piece than a tennis bracelet. One of the most sought after easily worn pieces in any capsule jewellery collection and beyond, this now ubiquitous item came to prominence in 1987 when, during a match in the U.S. Open, Chris Evert ‘lost’ her diamond bracelet when the clasp broke. Play was suspended so that it could be retrieved, which it was.

She later said “When I competed, I wanted to wear something that gave me confidence and empowered me, both as a woman and an athlete. My tennis bracelet added a personal element to my style on the court and served as a daily reminder that I can do and be anything.” Who wouldn’t want some of that?

This style of line bracelet has been popular since the Art Deco period, but it was Chris Evert that brought it to such wide prominence and caused the change of name.

You’ll also be needing a stylish watch and there is a plethora of choices endorsed by tennis stars. Roger Federer became a brand ambassador for Rolex in 2006 with what was, at the time the largest single endorsement for any professional athlete. He was contracted to Rolex for 10 years for which he received $15,000,000. Others now in the Rolex stable are Dominic Thiem for the Daytona; Garbiñe Muguruza with the DateJust and Jo-Wilfred Tsonga with the Milgauss. If you want to dress the part but favour other brands, Nadal wears a Richard Mille and Serena Williams an Audemars Piguet diamond outrage.

Perhaps you will fancy something unique and eye catching to adorn your outfit, you might look at vintage novelty tennis related items. These two tennis racket brooches were sold at auction and the ruby and diamond brooch is Edwardian and set with ruby, pearls and rose diamonds.

Last year Ralph Lauren unveiled new uniforms for the court officials. The instantly recognisable polo shirt is now produced in wide navy blue and white stripes and they stated that they were combining the heritage of the brand with sustainable modern fabrics and modern silhouettes.

As for the outfit itself no-one does Wimbledon better than The Princess of Wales. As Patron of the All England Club and a keen tennis player herself, she often attends the championships and well as presenting the trophies.

In 2022 she chose polka dots by Alessandra Rich and a bright yellow dress by Roskanda. If you wish to emulate her style, similar dresses are available by these designers at about £1,400 each.

Whatever your style choice and however you enjoy watching Wimbledon, we hope you enjoy the championships and regardless of your outfit, the event is definitely best served up with Pimm’s; and strawberries and cream.

The Princess of Wales jewellery trooping the colour

Posted on June 27, 2023August 9, 2024 by Aurélia Turrall

What a year it has been for the Royal family and ceremonial events and on the 17th June, they did it again, for the King’s birthday, also known as Trooping the Colour. The Princess of Wales was as regal as ever, and her outfit full of meaning – as they usually are.

When I first glanced at her stylish green outfit, my first thought was how reminiscent of the late Queen it was.

But when looking closer at the jewellery, the true meaning of the green came to light. Earlier in the year The Princess of Wales took over the role from her husband as the 11th Colonel of the Irish Guards. Her outfit designed by the fashion designer Andrew GN is called “emerald green triple crème coat dress with satin trim” and retails for £2,839 and is a deliberate choice of colour on this very special occasion.

It is completed by handcrafted jewelled buttons which appear to be a mix of turquoise, chalcedony or chrysoprase, and echoes the British flag design.

The jewelled button was also carefully placed on the back of the wide trimmed hat, by Philip Treacy.

The coat dress was paired with her signature shamrock brooch which she has been seen wearing on St Patrick’s day.

The brooch of textured design, features a single emerald to the centre. It was crafted by Cartier and then presented to Princess Mary, the Princess Royal, by the regiment in 1961. Though others state that the piece may have belonged to Queen Alexandra first. When Princess Mary died, the brooch was sold at auction and bought by the regiment and it was worn by the Queen Mother until her death in 2002, followed by Princess Anne between 2002 and 2011, and is on these occasions, loaned by the regiment.

In 2014, a similar four-leaf clover brooch came up for auction, the brooch made in 1957 by Cartier sold for £2,000 (including buyer’s premium). Today, I would place an insurance replacement value of £10,000 on this brooch.

To complete the look, the Princess of Wales wore Princess Diana’s sapphire and diamond cluster earrings.

The earrings feature two cabochon sapphires within a diamond surround, each cluster connected by a single diamond. The earrings are said to be part of a suite gifted to Princess Diana for her wedding by the Crown Prince of Saudi Arabia. The suite comprises of Burmese sapphire and diamond pendant with matching earrings, a ring, bracelet, and a watch.

The author of The Queen’s Jewels, Leslie Field described the Saudi set as, “Made by Asprey, it consists of an enormous Burmese sapphire pendant set in a jagged sunray fringe of baguette diamonds and hung on a thin diamond necklace; a matching pair of earrings and ring; a two-row bracelet of brilliant-cut diamonds with a smaller version of the sapphire pendant as a centrepiece; and a wristwatch, the face set in the same diamond sunray fringe and the strap consisting of seven oval sapphires set in clusters of diamonds.”

In 2007, Sotheby’s sold a similar sapphire and diamond cluster ring, comprised of a 3.52cts Burmese sapphire within a diamond surround, totalling 5.50cts. It sold for USD 12,000 (including buyer’s premium). Today, I would place an insurance replacement value of at least £50,000 for this piece.

For every event, The Princess of Wales carefully curates and matches her outfits including jewellery with the attention to detail simply impeccable.

Look at for her next time and spot the details within her dress and jewellery.

As jewellery replacement values continue to increase, please can we remind you to update your insurance valuations and if you have never had a valuation please call us to discuss.

The Crown Jewels for the Coronation

Posted on April 25, 2023January 3, 2025 by Jenny Knott

On May 6th King Charles III will be crowned in Westminster Abbey. A tradition dating back nearly 1000 years since William the Conqueror who was crowned in 1066. Charles’s will be the 38th coronation in the Abbey, most, like Charles’s, having been conducted by the incumbent Archbishop of Canterbury.

We are expecting a simpler and more paired back coronation for King Charles, but this does not mean that it is going to be light on tradition and ceremony. This historic event will still be an occasion for spectacle and celebration.

It is a ceremony that has remained essentially the same for a thousand years and the Coronation Regalia are at the heart of proceedings, imbued as they are with cultural and spiritual significance. They represent the powers and responsibilities of the new King and the solemnity of the occasion.

The last time we saw some of the regalia of the coronation was on the late Queen’s coffin, which was adorned with the crown, orb and sceptre.

These three items will play an integral role at the heart of the coronation service, but they are not the only pieces that we will see on the day.

St Edward’s Crown is the crown historically used at the moment of coronation and worn by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth at her coronation in 1953.

It was made for Charles II in 1661, as a replacement for the medieval crown which had been melted down in 1649 by Parliamentarians. Charles will wear this crown. The crown is 22 carat gold, so almost pure gold. It stands 30 cm tall and weighs an impressive 5lb. It contains tourmalines, white and yellow topaz, rubies, amethysts, sapphires, garnets, peridot, zircons, spinel and aquamarines. The three superstar gems in the crown are the Black Prince’s ruby, the Stuart sapphire and the Cullinan II diamond. No wonder Queen Elizabeth used to practise wearing it before the coronation, so its weight was not overwhelming on the day.

Camilla, the Queen Consort, will wear the Queen Mary’s Crown. This was removed from display at the Tower of London for modification work ahead of the coronation. It is the first time in recent history that an existing crown will be used for the coronation of a Consort. For previous coronations a new crown was commissioned. However, as a concession to the prevailing economic climate; sustainability and efficacy this crown, originally made by Garrards for the 1911 coronation, is being repurposed. Some minor changes and additions will be undertaken by the Crown Jeweller. These changes will pay particular tribute to the late Queen Elizabeth, as the Crown will be reset with the Cullinan III, IV and V diamonds. These diamonds were part of Queen Elizabeth II’s personal jewellery collection for many years and were often worn mounted in brooches.

At the heart of the ceremony itself are the sceptre, orb and the coronation anointing spoon. The Sovereign’s Sceptre and Cross symbolises the crown’s power and governance. It has been used at the coronation of every monarch since 1661. It was first used by King Henry VIII in 1509 for his own coronation. It is a golden rod, enamelled and set with multiple gemstones, the best known of which is the Cullinan I, or Star of Africa, a heart-shaped diamond weighing a colossal 530.2 carats.

In the photograph of Queen Elizabeth’s coronation you will see a second sceptre. This is the Sovereign’s sceptre with Dove. It is also known as the rod of Equity and Mercy and depicts an enamel dove wings outstretched alighting on the golden orb and cross. It represents the monarch’s spiritual role as head of the Church of England.

The most ancient piece of the coronation regalia is the coronation anointing spoon. The monarch is anointed with holy oil. The Chrism oil which will be used on May 6th has already been consecrated in Jerusalem. The oil itself comes from olives grown on the Mount of Olives and has been infused with sesame, rose, jasmine and other essential oils.

The spoon is silver gilt. Its existence was first recorded in 1349, but it may be even older. It is ornate with a central division and has been used to anoint monarchs for nearly seven hundred years. The central division may have been so that the archbishop might dip two fingers into the holy oil as he anoints the head, breast and hand of the new monarch.

It is traditional that the choir sings ‘Zadok the Priest’ during this sacred part of the ceremony; music originally composed by Handel for the coronation of King George II in 1727 and which has become an integral part of the proceedings.

The anointing is followed by dressing of the monarch in the spectacular robe of cloth of gold called the Supertunica and the long Imperial Mantle. The monarch is then presented with other items from the Coronation Regalia.

These include the gold spurs, the jewelled Sword of Offering and the Armills. The Armills are gold bracelets representing sincerity and wisdom. It is at this point that the monarch also receives the Sovereign’s Orb, as well as a ring and two sceptres.

The Orb is placed in the right hand of the monarch, during the investiture as the symbol of sovereignty. As a cross mounted on a globe, it represents the Christian world and the power of God. It is a reminder to the monarch that their authority is given by God. It is bisected with applied bands incorporating clusters of emeralds, rubies, sapphires and rose diamonds between bands of pearls. Having been handed to the King, it will be removed and placed on the altar before the moment of crowning.

The King will also be presented with the pair of golden spurs. These were first included amongst the regalia of the coronation in 1189 at the coronation of Richard the Lionheart. These represent his ‘knightly values and virtues’, such as protecting the poor, and defending the church. The current spurs are gold, made in 1661 for Charles1 and adapted in 1820 for George IV. In the past, the spurs were attached to the sovereign’s feet, but on May 6th they will be held at the ankle of the king.

The Sovereign’s ring will be placed on his fourth finger. The ring has the cross of St George at the centre formed from five rubies, overlaying an octagonal cut sapphire and bordered with fourteen old cushion cut diamonds. The ring was originally made by Royal Goldsmiths and Silversmiths Rundell, Bridge and Rundell for the coronation of William IV. It is said to be a symbol of ‘kingly dignity’.

The coronation sword, also known as The Jewelled Sword of Offering, will be presented by the archbishop, who first blesses the sword and then presents it with the direction that it should be used for the protection of the good and the punishment of evil. First used in 1821 by George IV, it has been used at all coronations since 1902. Like the Sovereign’s ring, the sword, made from blued steel, with a gold, jewel encrusted hilt and jewelled leather scabbard, was a commission from Rundell Bridge and Rundell.

The ceremony culminates with the placing of the St Edward’s Crown on the monarch’s head, the actual ‘coronation’.

The new King will change his crown for The Imperial State Crown as he leaves the Abbey. This is the crown that he will wear for future state occasions like the annual opening of Parliament. Although set in gold with 2,868 diamonds, 269 pearls, 17 sapphires, 11 emeralds and four rubies, it weighs a mere 2.3lb and is a more practical choice. It was worn by the Queen when she left Westminster Abbey in 1953. It was originally made for the coronation of her father, King George VI, in 1937.

Many of us grew up listening to older relatives tell tales of the Queen’s coronation. Televisions were purchased for the first time for the occasion, families huddled round radios to hear the ceremony live, and there is the enduring account of Queen Salote Tupou III who refused to be cowed by the rain and rode through London in an open topped carriage. No doubt King Charles’s coronation will be a different meld of old, new and unexpected acts of generosity and kindness. We can but wish for a day of joy and hope, amidst the tradition and ceremony.

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