Tag Archives: jewels

Jewellery Pick of the week – an alligator hinged bangle by Barry Kieselstein-Cord

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This week’s pick is a gold piece of jewellery with a lot of character and no gems. An alligator hinged bangle by Barry Kieselstein-Cord from the 1980s.

This bangle is made of 18ct yellow gold and realistically designed as an alligator with detailed teeth, eyes and skin. And it could be yours for £20,000.

It was offered at auction at Christie’s with an estimate of $4,000-6,000 and sold for $16,250, including premium.

So why the price tag? This item is a good example of how premium is added to craftsmanship. The bangle weighs a little over 100grms and has been worked and moulded with great care, attention and exceptional know-how.

Barry Kieselstein-Cord didn’t always work with gold. His first collection, dating 1972, was crafted in sterling silver. When we think of silver jewellery, one of the famous names that come to mind is George Jensen. Barry Kieselstein-Cord’s collection was bought and presented at Jensen’s flagship store on Madison Avenue in New York City (now closed).

He shot to stardom and his jewellery was soon a key accessory to have. Movie stars like Diane Keaton were quick to get their hands on this new stylist’s designs. He also worked closely with Calvin Klein and Helmut Newton.

His brand has extended into handbags over the years and are considered works of art. So much so that The Museum of Fine Arts in Houston exhibits his Alligator Trophy Handbag made in 1992.

He also created belt buckles, which caught the attention of the Spanish bull fighter El Cordobès who purchased a horse-head buckle in the 70s.

Whilst he was working with sterling silver he made a skull necklace for Mick Jagger’s 30th birthday and continues to this day to make iconic pieces. Though access to these is very limited and exclusive.

So if you want a piece of history, keep your eye on auctions and specialised vintage jewellery shops as these pieces are very rare and the market is scarce for these recognisable pieces.

This Week’s Jewellery Pick

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This week I saw a lovely collection of antique jewels, dating from the mid-19th century. Mid-19th century felt ‘relatively’ close until I realised it was getting closer to being 200 years old rather than 100… If you’re like me, the 80s was still only 20 years ago! Enough revelation on how old I am and back to this beautiful collection.

The one piece which caught my eye was an onyx mourning brooch dated 1854.

The oval onyx plaque, measuring 4cm x 4.5cm, has an overlaid border of acanthus leaf gold detail, the central glazed compartment with a lock of hair within a surround of 31 seed pearls, in closed-back setting. The reverse was engraved with ‘In Memory of Henry Thomas, Sept 14th 1854, Oct 54 years & 11 Months’.

Though its value might be relatively low, around £500 for Insurance purposes and £200 for open market value, one can immediately sense the priceless sentimental value this piece had.

When Prince Albert died on 14th December 1861 of typhoid fever, Queen Victoria entered a state of mourning and wore black for the remainder of her life.

It was then that onyx became fashionable. The court was quick to follow the new strict “dress code”. With wars and epidemics, death was everywhere. The demand for hair for mourning jewellery was such that it is said an extra 50 tonnes of human hair a year was imported to England to meet the demand.

Though a very personal jewel, the demand for mourning jewellery is constant. The below items, comprising of two mid-19th century gold and enamel mourning brooches and an 1830s gold locket, sold at Bonhams for £1,000 (including premium).

Mourning jewels are both sad and a beautiful statement of the love someone has for a departed. Whether antique or new, it is a celebration of the life that once was.

Stay tuned for next week’s jewellery pick…

Jewellery Valuation

Designer Jewellery Trends – An Upward Curve?

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There is no doubt that values in the designer jewellery field have seen uplifts in the past few years. A unique combination of the Post Pandemic luxury goods ‘boom’, an exponential rise in social media influences on buying patterns, wider inflation and bullion prices have all contributed to an incredibly buoyant and enduring atmosphere.

Similarly to the trends seen over the last couple of years in the watch market, particular designer brands saw a huge increase in popularity, visibility, and subsequent demand on the secondary market, with only a slight respite towards the end of 2023 (Reuters).

Coupled with retail prices ever increasing, the value of these ‘hot’ designer items have been pushed up on the secondary market. Value factors include condition, whether the piece has its box, and the perceived popularity or rarity of any gemstones used in the design.

Cartier

Whilst Cartier’s growth in the retail sphere appeared to be easing towards the end of last year, share prices and figures released in January 2024 display a definite upward curve driven by demand in Asia. This healthy overall trajectory has filtered down to the secondary market, with Cartier items at auction demonstrating a strong sales rate and frequently exceeding estimate.

‘Love’

The last retail price increase for Cartier was implemented in early 2023, with prices rising from anywhere between 3% to over 10%. The most sought-after and iconic collections naturally increased the most, with Pursebop estimating the retail price of an 18ct white gold Love Bracelet set with four diamonds increasing 7% to £12,200.

The Cartier ‘Love’ bangle is one of the most popular items of jewellery ever designed. Created by Aldo Cipullo in 1969 and were referred to as a ‘modern love handcuff,’ only removable with the help of a mini screwdriver.

Worth noting that some designs, including Aldo Cipullo original LOVE jewels from the 1960s onwards will always command a premium for their place in the brand’s design history. Another 1960s design by Cipullo to continue to grow in retail price is the Juste Un Clou, with a ‘small’ diamond set bangle selling for £4,850, and a diamond-set choker necklace now retailing at £105,000.

Cartier Trinity

This year, to celebrate 100 years of the Trinity Collection, Cartier has released two new designs, a re-edition of the XL bracelet and an XL version of the iconic ring. Maintaining the timeless appeal and enduring relevance of this beautiful collection has seen values continue to rise over decades, resulting in a classic collection that is still coveted a century after its creation.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Another brand under the Richemont umbrella is Van Cleef & Arpels. Van Cleef & Arpels was established in 1895 following the marriage of Estelle Arpels, daughter of a dealer in precious stones, and Alfred Van Cleef, son of a lapidary. Creating masterpieces such as the ‘invisible setting,’ the minaudière, and the zip necklace, this iconic jewellery house is perhaps best known in present times for the ‘Alhambra’ collection. Indeed, according to statistics by retailer Watch Pilot, in 2023, the Van Cleef Alhambra bracelet was the most Google searched item of jewellery by category.

VCA Alhambra

Designed in 1968 by Jacques Arpels to be symbolic for luck, the Alhambra Collection is designed around a series of quatrefoil ‘four leaf clover’ panels. Varying in designs with quantity, size, and gem material, these beautifully set clover shapes are truly emblematic of the brand. Worn by royalty and celebrities to include the likes of Princess Grace of Monaco, Elizabeth Taylor, Kate Middleton and many more, the Alhambra collection possesses a truly timeless appeal.

Since 2022, the retail price for an 18ct gold Alhambra bracelet with five mother of pearl motifs has increased by 5.3% to £3,950.

At auction, the Van Cleef Alhambra pieces that well exceeded estimates were limited edition runs and unique pieces that were impossible to procure from the retail market.

One such example was a striking collar necklace, formed from openwork Alhambra links in 18ct yellow gold, selling at Bonhams in 2022 for £50,000 against a £12,000-15,000 estimate.

Boodles

Boodle & Dunthorne was established in Liverpool in 1795, gaining a reputation as one of Britain’s finest jewellers. Rebranding to ‘Boodles’ in 2004, this coveted brand has designed several sought-after jewellery collections that continue to enjoy increases in value as the years go by. Collections such as the Velocity, Blossom, and Raindance are all designed and handcrafted in-house from Boodles’ workshops in the heart of London.

Raindance

Designed in 2000 and inspired by a trip to the Chelsea Flower Show in which Head of Design Rebecca Hawkins admired the way light played on raindrops, the Raindance Collection is seen as one of the brand’s most iconic collections. Indeed, the Victoria & Albert Museum has a Raindance ring on display as part of their ‘Best of British Design’ permanent exhibition.

Featuring a series of collet set diamonds in varying sizes and angles, these beautiful jewels are retailing from £3,400 for a single band set with three circular rubies or sapphires and a pair of brilliant cut diamonds. At the top end of the spectrum is the Raindance ‘Chelsea’ bracelet, set with over 15 carats of colourless and fancy pink diamonds at £134,400.

Celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2020, Boodles released a limited-edition ring, set in platinum and 18ct rose gold with colourless and Argyle pink diamonds. Varying in carat weights, these limited edition pieces will continue to grow in value and hold their own at auction. In 2023, one such example with approximately 2.80cts of diamonds sold at Tennants Auctioneers for £19,000. Meanwhile, a version of the design on Boodles website set with 4.25cts is available for purchase at £84,000.

To conclude, exquisitely constructed and expertly finished jewellery will always possess a value, and continue to rise according to demand, popularity and inflation over time.

Although trends and fashionable collections will alter and vary over the years, items from the premier jewellery houses, in good condition and with original boxes will retain a demand from collectors, jewellery lovers and indeed those new to the market. Pieces that possess an unusual or rare aspect, such as an early piece from the collection, limited edition runs, and unexpected gemstones can expect to exponentially increase in value over time.

With the clear discrepancy between open market value and retail replacement value, it is essential that clients are equipped with adequate cover for their items. For a specialist, informed and up to date valuation of your jewellery collection, contact our experienced, nationwide team at Doerr Dallas Valuations.

Easter Eggs

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After extensive, but not wholly onerous research, I have found that the must have luxury chocolate Easter egg for 2024 is the Grande Easter Egg from Betty’s in Yorkshire. Your £375 will allow you to acquire over five kilos of Grand Cru Swiss chocolate made from Venezuelan criollo cocoa beans. Your egg will be applied with iced Spring flowers including narcissi, primroses, pansies and lily of the valley all with hand piped stems. Betty’s have been producing these hand crafted edible masterpieces for over a hundred years.

However, the history of eggs at Easter goes back many centuries. In the 1290 household accounts of Edward I ‘one shilling and sixpence for the decoration and distribution of pace eggs.’ ( Pace being a dialectical term for pashe or pascal.) These were hens’ eggs which had been dyed or coloured and were distributed to members of the Royal household. These eggs would have been wrapped in onion skins and then boiled, when the onion skin was removed the eggs looked as though they had a mottled gilding. The Scandinavians had a similar tradition also using flowers and leaves to produce a pattern.

Throughout Europe eggs were dyed and painted; and eggs were in plentiful supply. Although Shrove Tuesday saw the using up of eggs to make pancakes prior to Lent, no-one told the chickens that eggs were off the menu for the next forty days, so they continued to produce them, resulting in a glut of eggs by Easter. Throughout Europe and beyond the decorating and distributing of eggs has been part of Easter celebrations for hundreds of years.

The White House has a traditional Easter Egg Roll. In 1878 the President Rutherford B Hayes allowed the White House Grounds to be opened on Easter Monday and children were allowed to bring along Easter eggs and roll them on the lawn with a long handled spoon. Today it is a huge event and children can enter a public ballot to attend.

The ultimate Easter egg tradition is that of the Fabergé eggs. Jewelled eggs had been gifted at Easter before 1885. However, Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich, brother to Tsar Alexander III suggested that Peter Carl Fabergé be commissioned to create a Royal egg. The egg, known as the ‘Hen Egg’ was given to the Tsarina, who was thrilled with it. It opened to reveal a golden hen sitting on golden straw and inside the hen was a replica of the Imperial Crown and a ruby pendant. Fabergé had triumphed and Alexander named him ‘goldsmith by special appointment to the Imperial Crown’, placing an order for another egg the following year. The eggs became more ornate and elaborate year after year. The designs did not have to have Royal approval, the only prerequisites were that each should be unique and contain a surprise. The eggs made for the Russian Royal family are known as the Imperial eggs.

A few notable figures, including the Rothschilds commissioned eggs of their own, but these were not numerous. The revolution in 1918, inevitably saw an end to this tradition, although Fabergé in its more recent incarnation still produces egg themed jewellery. Should you wish to purchase your own Fabergé egg pendant this Easter, the 18 carat gold, diamond and enamel Palais Tsarkoye Selo turquoise egg containing an enamel and diamond locket, can be yours for £12,000.

The popularity of gold and silver eggs with novelty surprises may have begun with Fabergé but has been taken up by others. In the 1960’s and 70’s the English silversmith Stuart Devlin acquired a large following for his eggs. They are still popular today and one sold at auction recently with Dreweatts at a hammer price of £1,100.

A longchain suspending numerous French, Austrian and Hungarian egg pendants sold in 2022, as seen in the adjacent images. The finesse of the manufacture, the frequent use of colourful guilloché enamel and the cute novelty surprises inside, helped Bonhams reach a hammer price of £28,000.

If this all seem a little overwhelming perhaps it’s time to consider the more modest Cadbury’s creme egg. Initially sold as the Frys’s creme egg, it became part of the Cadbury family in 1971. They are still only available from New Year’s Day until Easter Sunday and in recent YouGov poll they were ranked as the UK’s most famous confectionery.

We hope that the Easter bunny will bring you your egg of choice and Doerr Dallas wishes you a very happy Easter.

Unveiling the Brilliance Lab-Grown Diamonds

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When is a diamond not a diamond?

What do you call diamonds that are not formed underground but grown in a controlled environment that mimics the conditions under which natural diamonds develop? So, are they synthetic, lab-grown or factory grown or simply ‘diamonds’?

First of all, lets look at how you ‘grow’ those divine diamonds.

There are two popular ways to grow a diamond. Both involve starting with the ‘seed’ of another diamond. The first lab diamond was made in the 1960’s and the industry has changed massively in size and complexity in the intervening 65 years.

The growing of LGD’s is a little like the VHS and Betamax fight in the 1980’s. The first option is using a High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) system, where the seed is then placed amidst some pure graphite carbon and exposed to temperatures of about 1,500C and pressurised to approximately 1.5 million pounds per square inch in a chamber. The alternative model to make diamonds is called Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD). This was slower out of the starting blocks but the quality and size of diamonds produced using this method is arguably superior to HPHT.

This system involves putting the seed in a sealed chamber filled with carbon-rich gas and heating to around 800C. Under these conditions the gases begin to “stick” to the seed, growing a diamond carbon atom by atom.

No one knows quite yet who will win the fight like VHS did back in the day. Vast research development and investment is being put into both practises with neither side prepared to admit defeat yet.

LGD’s represent nature at its most perfect, at a fraction of the price of a natural diamond.

Retail

  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut LGD in 2021 – £16,500
  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut LGD in 2023 – £7,500
  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut certificated natural in 2021 – £55,000
  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut certificated natural in 2023 – £70,000

Some of the questions we are asked are ‘Are they real diamonds?’ and ‘Can you tell them apart from a natural diamond?’

The answer is yes to the first question. They test as a diamond (2.412 on a refractometer) visually and chemically identical to a natural diamond.

However, they can be told apart by those in the know.

Using LWUV and SWUV (long wave ultraviolet and short wave UV) the florescence of a factory made stone is an absolute giveaway. They often have a strong turquoise or purple colour that you never find in the natural world. The growth structure can also give away a man-made diamond because they were grown so quickly, the atomic structure does not have the same chance to settle into a classic framework.

The pricing of diamonds, whether natural or labgrown, depends on various factors such as carat weight, cut, colour, and clarity. While lab-grown diamonds are generally more affordable than their natural counterparts, the price difference is becoming more pronounced as technology advances and demand grows.

Natural diamonds are esteemed for their rarity, formed over millions of years deep within the Earth. Lab-grown diamonds, despite sharing the same physical and chemical properties, are sometimes perceived as less valuable due to their manufactured origin. Costs over the last two years has dropped in value of these stones while natural diamonds are keeping their value.

The latest findings propose that there is very little resale value for a LGD. Many auction houses will not take them and many of the large fine jewellery houses will not sell them including De Beers who set up their own LGD factory and company for their ‘Lightbox’ ranges. They stopped making engagement rings in 2022.

The marked retail price difference gives rise to the challenge in ensuring transparency and proper disclosure to the consumer. Some critics argue that buyers may not always be adequately informed about whether the diamond they are purchasing is natural or lab-grown.

Due to the price differential this could be a devastating find?

Did you know; if a diamond is marketed or sold or valued as a ‘diamond’, without a pre-fix such as lab-grown, synthetic etc, then it is assumed to be an earth grown natural diamond? All lab-grown diamonds of any shape or size must have a pre-fix to aid a consumer’s educated decision process.

During a recent valuation, a diamond ring was presented from a charming young man, who had purchased it to propose to his girlfriend. However, during our appraisal, Annabell had to give him the devastating news that it was not a natural diamond. He had purchased the stone for £38,000 when infact,the price should have been around £9,000– did the jewellers know it was lab grown?

This type of miss-selling has caused the potential for market confusion. Consumers might face challenges distinguishing between natural and lab-grown diamonds, impacting the perceived value of their purchases. So, it is important to buy your jewellery from a recognised jewellery company.

Having reviewed some of the challenges for LGDs verses natural diamonds, they are still hugely popular. In August 2023, LGD amounted to 50% of all diamonds purchased in America. Pandora, who are one of the world’s largest jewellery companies, uses LGD for many of their designs. Gems TV and ‘fashion jewellery’ brands are developing price sensitive ranges for LGDs and because of the size of the market and the lower margins being made, the producers are concentrating on melee size cut goods for watches and ‘halo’ rings and larger (2ct plus) ultra high quality diamonds, such as E & F colour VVS clarity.

So, are Lab-Grown Diamonds here to stay… the rise of lab-grown diamonds is indicative of a broader trend toward sustainable and ethical practices in the jewellery industry. While traditional diamonds maintain their allure and value, lab-grown diamonds are carving a niche for themselves, driven by consumer demand for more price sensitive choices. As technology continues to advance and consumers prioritise ethical considerations, lab-grown diamonds are likely to remain a significant player in the market. However, the coexistence of natural and lab-grown diamonds is expected, with each catering to different preferences and values. The issues associated with lab-grown diamonds against natural stones are multifaceted, touching upon perceived value, ethical considerations, disclosure, and market dynamics.

Will natural diamond values increase due to scarcity? Will women prefer to have a natural diamond on their finger rather than a lab-grown diamond or will price decide?

We wait and watch!

Antique Jewellery

Antique Jewellery

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Antique, heirloom second-hand jewellery is a finite commodity, sometimes incorporating unrepeatable craftsmanship and irreplaceable gemstones.

Some of my favourite jewels are antique pieces. The reason is simple: exceptional quality and craftsmanship. One could argue that with today’s tools and technology, jewels are just as well made, if not better. But there is a difference, the exquisite craftsmanship from a hundred, or two hundred years ago was so exceptional that these “artists” accomplished unique pieces, without our modern tools and are still admired to this day.

Cartier is often the go to example when discussing unique skills, then and now. The above Art Déco sautoir by Cartier, was sold at Christie’s in May 2012. With an estimate of CHF74,000-110,000 (approx. £60,000-85,000), it sold for CHF 507,000 (approx. £400,000), excluding premium. The hammer price reflects a combination of excellent work but also unique gems. The quality of the emeralds would have been chosen to be the most vivid green, eye-clean or with very few inclusions. And the pearls, would have had to be selected minutely to match in size, colour, overtone and quality. Any blemish to the nacre, and the pearl would have been discarded.

This necklace would have required hundreds of hours from skilled jewellers and tradesmen.

Another example of the skilled work is this below Belle Epoque pendant watch by Cartier. The pink is enamel and the technique is called guilloché enamel. It resembles waves and the know-how to achieve this is unparalleled. It was sold for CHF7,500 (approx. £6,700) excluding premium at Sotheby’s.

Though the technique requires exceptional skill, the piece’s relatively “low” value for an antique Cartier jewel, can be explained by the lack of gems. Unlike the sautoir, only a few rose-cut diamonds were used in this piece. As complex and unique as this piece is, the demand for such an item is less than, for example, the below rock crystal and diamond Art Deco bracelet by Cartier, and therefore commands a lower price.

The rock crystal and diamond bracelet sold at Sotheby’s for USD237,500. The seven larger old European-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 11.60 carats, are approximately H-I colour and SI-I clarity. The smaller old European, old mine and rose-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 6.80 carats, are approximately G-J colour and VS-I clarity. This piece, just as with the sautoir, is a perfect combination of choosing good quality gems, and working with a semiprecious gem, rock crystal, in such a manner, that probably only a handful of people could ever deal with. The bracelet was sold with a note from the jewellery department stating that it is “exceptionally flexible and supple”. An incredible achievement.

Side stepping away from the worldrenowned jeweller, is Bvlgari. In the 60s, Bvlgari created an entire collection based on antique and irreplaceable coins, the Monete collection. Launched in the 60s, it is one of their most celebrated and successful collections, worn by private individuals and also Hollywood glam, such as Anne Hathaway, below, wearing Monete High Jewellery by Bvlgari.

Their collection includes coins from centuries BC, and never-used replicas. This meant there was limited supply and sourcing took a long time when they initially launched the collection. As popularity grew stronger, sourcing became easier and quicker. Though readily available, these jewels still retail for several thousands, and tens of thousands of pounds.

Irreplaceable gems and antique jewels make up some of the most precious collections, whether on display in a museum or on sale at auction. Exceptional prices and auction sale results will always take the world by surprise but can we actually put a price on a unique antique items of jewellery? Sentimentality will always play a role when inheriting jewellery, and who could put a price on those feelings.

Ladies Valentine’s Gift Guide

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Valentine’s Day is named after Saint Valentine, a Catholic priest who lived in Rome in the 3rd Century. There are many stories about St Valentine and over time these stories grew into the legend we know today. It is an annual festival to celebrate romantic love, friendship, and admiration. Every year on the 14th of February people celebrate this day by sending messages of love and affection to partners, family, and friends.

Some people love it, some hate it, and some just ignore it altogether. We believe that rather than seeing it as an exclusively romantic occasion, why not look at it as an opportunity to show your favourite person how much you love them?

Although giving a gift is not essential, when it comes to showing a little appreciation, springing for one of the best Valentine’s gifts certainly won’t go unnoticed. For a few ideas on ways to celebrate, share, and spread the love this year this is our guide to what women want for Valentine’s day.

Tiffany & Co

Tiffany & Co was founded in 1837 and has been in the hearts and collections of jewellery lovers for 187 years. They have a fabulous range of jewellery including diamond engagement rings and designs by Schlumberger and Paloma Piccasso. One especially romantically themed design is the Open Heart Collection by Elsa Peretti.

Elsa Peretti’s history with the brand started in 1974, when she began her longstanding collaboration that resulted in the creation of many of Tiffany and Co.’s most iconic designs.

Known for her unique silhouettes, Peretti designed Tiffany pieces that have now become synonymous with love, minimalism, and luxury. The Open Heart Collection, which features sleek heart designs strung from delicate chains or ropes, has been a bestseller since its release. Pieces are available in gold and silver and some are diamond set. The design has featured in many films, including Bridget Jones’s Diary.

Due to their popularity these pieces increase in value every year. They remain extremely popular, often going out of stock, they also sell very well on the open market.

Here is an Elsa Peretti Open heart pendant in 18ct yellow gold retailing for £2,225.

This diamond and platinum open heart retails for just under £8,000.

This Elsa Peretti mesh link heart retails for £7,725.

Boodles Ashoka Diamonds

Diamonds have been a declaration of true love for centuries and the Boodles Ashoka diamond is a great way to express some individuality.

Boodles is the only jeweller to offer Ashoka-cut diamonds and their range includes diamond rings, earrings, bracelets, and necklaces. The Ashoka cut is named after an ancient Indian emperor and has an impressive 62 facets. They are prized for both rarity and incomparable sparkle.

Here are some Ashoka diamonds with an estimate of $70,000 to $90,000 at a 2015 sale at Bonhams in New York.

The Ashoka diamond range retails at prices from the low thousands up to hundreds of thousands of pounds. Here is a beautiful Ashoka diamond ring weighing 7.00cts.

These Ashoka diamond earrings retail for £27,500.

Cartier

Nothing says I love you, like a Cartier Love bracelet.

The Love bracelet was designed by Aldo Cipullo in 1969 in New York. He wanted to design a bracelet that fit as closely as possible to a loved one’s wrist. Not only that, it was also intended to be worn by both men and women. They were referred to as a “modern love handcuff” for the way in which they are secured using a screwdriver.

It is rumoured that Cartier once banned customers from buying the Love bracelet for themselves, with a policy stating that they could only be purchased by a couple. It was even designed to require the assistance of someone else to put it on.

The diamond-studded Love bracelet was first introduced in 1979, ten years after the original.

When the Love bracelet was first launched, it is said that Cartier gave pairs of them to some of the most famous couples of the 20th century, including the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Ali MacGraw and Steve McQueen, and Sophia Loren and Carlo Ponti.

There are now many variations of the Love bracelet including some set with diamonds.

For example, this diamond set Love bracelet with 1.99ct of diamonds retails for £45,400.

A 18ct gold Love bracelet is available for just over £7,000.

Synthetic diamonds

Synthetic diamonds are becoming a very popular choice in the jewellery market. Lab grown diamonds are visually, chemically, and physically the same as a diamond mined from the earth. The only difference is that it is created in a laboratory and it’s here where they emulate the natural process of a diamond’s growth. They are also considered a more sustainable option than mined diamonds.

Here is a diamond line bracelet set with 6cts of diamonds retailing for $6,999.

Here is a Lab grown diamond pendant set with a 1ct diamond retailing for $1,200.

Here is a pair of fancy blue and pink synthetic diamonds retailing for $250.

Chanel Classic

A Chanel handbag always makes a fantastic gift. Their designs are timeless.

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel introduced her first version of the classic bag with flap in February of 1955. Now known as the 2.55, it was revolutionary because of its functionality; the shoulder bag freed women’s hands to do other things than hold a cumbersome handbag.

This Chanel pink flap bag retails for £5,200 and has the Classic style in a summer fabric.

This small Chanel Bucket bag retails for £4,260.

Conclusion

There’s nothing greater than seeing a loved one, friend or member of the family enjoying luxury gifts. It is always important to make sure that your insurance valuation is up to date, should the very worst happen. Having an out-of-date valuation can result in an underpayment if you were to make a claim. Retailers such as Cartier, Tiffany & Co and Chanel often increase their retail values by up to 40% twice a year. If you need an up-todate valuation, then contact the experts at Doerr Dallas Valuations on 01883 722 736.

Cartier and Tiffany rocked at the Golden Globes…

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“It’s the most wonderful time of the year…” and I don’t mean Christmas. My favourite time of the year is now, for all the red carpet gowns and jewels. So many impressive pieces displayed at this year’s Golden Globes. This year, I take a look at the two usual suspects that never miss: Cartier and Tiffany & Co., both symbols of chic and glamour, using the finest craftsman and precious gems.

One of my all time favourite actresses is Jennifer Lawrence, and she was faultless with her “simple” velvet gown and diamond-set Tiffany & Co. jewels.

The necklace was composed of a series of princess-cut diamonds, suspending to the front an 11 carat diamond pear-shaped drop. Her earrings were decorated with a total of 6 carats of untreated blue sapphire and diamond surround, mounted in platinum and 18 carat yellow gold. She matched these with a diamond ring and nothing too big which could distract from the Dior clutch.

It was a big year for singer/songwriter Dua Lipa, with a nomination for Best Original Song for the Barbie movie.

She dazzled the crowds with a 1962 gold and platinum Tiffany & Co. necklace. It is set throughout with oval, pear and briolette-cut yellow beryls and brilliant-cut diamonds. A similar piece, dating from 1967, sold in June last year, 2023, at Christie’s for USD $189,000, set with approximately 86 brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing 7.00 carats.

The singer completed her look with a yellow sapphire and diamond cluster ring.

Another very talented singer/songwriter is Jon Batiste. He was superb with a few Tiffany & Co. jewels which sparkled on his Dior suit.

The necklace is from the HardWear collection. It is set throughout with fancy links, each set with brilliant-cut diamonds and mounted in 18 carat yellow gold. This necklace currently retails for £70,000. However, there are several other options retailing from £550 mounted in silver, to £215,500 set with diamonds and mounted in rose gold.

A lovely addition to the necklace was the platinum and 18 carat gold Starfish brooch by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. It is decorated with a three carat aquamarine and diamond surround. The Starfish collection ranges from silver, selling for £365, to yellow gold, retailing at £3,450.

While Tiffany & Co. draped several artists, Cartier High Jewellery was the brand of choice for actress Julianne Moore.

She wore a spectacular gold and petrified wood necklace of reptile inspiration. Composed of 57 links, each set with white and yellow diamonds.

Echoing that style of individual panels is the Panthère de Cartier necklace set with almost 2,000 white, orange, yellow and brown diamonds, totalling just under 40 carats. A truly unique piece and a statement to Cartier’s savoir-faire.

The Panthère collection has several options of bracelets, watches and necklaces.

The actor Jared Leto, usually known for taking daring fashion risks, wore a simple 18 carat white gold and diamond Panthère de Cartier necklace.

It is set with two emerald eyes, 309 diamonds, weighing a total of 3.24 carats and highlighted by calibré-cut onyx. It currently retails for £78,500.

The Panthère collection is as desirable as ever and Cartier will always be a go to jeweller for any red carpet event.

Discovering Sotheby’s Auction

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Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal collection

On the 6th and 7th November, Sotheby’s Geneva will be auctioning some of the finest antique jewellery from the 1900s, described as Belle Epoque jewellery. This collection is unique in that it groups prestigious gems, such as emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and natural pearls, but also in that these pieces have been kept intact all this time. It is becoming increasingly rare to find pieces from over a century ago. Jewels are very often broken up and stripped of their gems and metal. It is, in my opinion, a great shame, as the craftmanship of that period was stunning and very refined.

Belle époque jewels are characterised by bows, ribbons, swags and flowers, and items mounted en tremblant. Meaning to tremble, en tremblant diamond-set flowerheads (for the most part) are attached to a thin metal wire spring which trembles with movement. This gives the illusion of life and allows light to reverberate into the diamonds, bouncing off and reflecting “fire”, all the colours of the rainbows. It is often found on tiaras, brooches or devant de corsage such as lot 1089 of the sale.

Gifted by Philipp, Duke of Württemberg (1838-1917) as a wedding gift to his bride Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria – Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg (1845 –1927 in 1865, it is composed of natural saltwater pearls and approximately 60 – 75 carats of diamonds. It comes with an estimate of CHF270,000 – 450,000 (approximately £245,000 – 410,000).

Selling with the same estimate is a natural pearl and diamond brooch, circa 1865.

It is set with a first button-shaped pearl, measuring approximately 14mm and suspends a larger drop, measuring approximately 19mm. They are highlighted by approximately ten carats of diamonds.

This piece and its estimate are an indication of exceptional provenance but also reinforce the importance of having certificates for unique gems. These two pearls have reports from the reputable laboratory SSEF in Switzerland. When looking to insure or sell, reports will be a key part of valuing an item correctly.

In the example of the above brooch, if the pearls were not natural, its value would be mainly in the diamonds. It is their natural origin that give it a hefty price tag.

What do we call natural pearl?

Natural, as opposed to cultured pearls, are created in the wild, without human intervention. Cultured pearls are grown in farms and commonly are bead nucleated. This means a nacre has been formed around a nucleus as way for the pearl of defending itself. The pearls are then collected anywhere from six months to 3 years depending on the type and environment in which they are grown.

To illustrate further the uniqueness of the pearl and diamond brooch sold by Sotheby’s (above), the retailer Hancocks, who deals with antique jewellery, currently sells a natural pearl and diamond brooch for £22,500 (below). The pearl measures approximately 11mm and there are close to five carats of diamonds.

There are a variety of jewellery for women of course in this sale but also for men. Beautiful emerald cufflinks for example are also for sale.

The above cufflinks are centrally colletset with rose-cut diamonds within a navette-shaped emerald terminal. They belonged to the Tsar of Bulgaria and have an estimate of CHF3,600 – 5,500 (approximately £3,200 – 5,000).

Cufflinks and medals were worn with uniforms for balls, together with neck badges such as the below.

This beautiful gem-set neck badge has an estimate of CHF36,000 – 55,000 (approximately £32,000 – 50,000) and is adorned with a Ceylon sapphire, accompanied by an SSEF report stating it has no indication of heat treatment.

In this instance again, a report is essential and its findings are reflected in the estimate. Heat treatment is often used in sapphires to deepen a stone’s colour and, although a common practise, can detract from a gem’s value. The key factors of quality of this sapphire, together with provenance and other gems in the piece makes it a stunning piece.

This collection embodies the late 19th century, early 20th century era of court, wars and balls with delicate attires and military uniforms. Waltzes and lavish court dinners with men and women draped with the most exceptional jewellery, reflected who they were in society, and if judging by the quality of these pieces, it is no surprise they could have been considered semi-Gods.

On a personal note, I wish great success for this sale in association with Duke Philipp of Württemberg, who I had the extreme pleasure of working with at Sotheby’s.

Nephrite

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Nephrite can be found in three major locations: northwestern China, Siberia and British Columbia, though China has been said to provide to best quality nephrite, such as the “mutton fat”.

The mines in British Columbia formed in the Mesozoic, 251.9 to 66.0 million years ago, when Pangea started to separate and dinosaurs walked the planet.

Nephrite, along with jadeite, is often referred to as jade. It comes in an array of colours and can be translucent to opaque.

Although nephrite comes in various colours, it is usually less pronounced than in jadeite. What else differentiates jadeite from nephrite? Their chemical composition to start with. This would be difficult to identify when out shopping for a jade necklace, but jadeite’s composition is: NaAlSi2O6 and nephrite’s is Ca2(Mg,Fe)5Si8O22(OH)2.

The deposits location is also different. Jadeite is only found in Myanmar as opposed to nephrite, which ranges across the borders.

Nephrite is harder than jadeite, making it a good candidate for sculptures.

Nephrite rates 6 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale. The Mohs scale of mineral hardness was created by Friedrich Mohs in 1822 and determines the scratch resistance of minerals when scratched by another mineral.

The Mohs scale is used to manufacture everyday objects: your mobile phone’s screen glass is made of a material that scratches at level 6, some at level 7.

Compared to jadeite, if nephrite chips, it will have a more waxy texture to it and could leave a powdery residue.

Though it may scratch, it is nonetheless a hard gemstone, made up of minuscule interlocking minerals which form a larger one, this is called a metamorphic gem. It was in fact hard enough for when man first made tools.

Due to its relative hardness and arrays of colours in which it comes, it is very sought after. However, jadeite is more valuable than nephrite, but the latter remains a great contender for jewellery pieces and for being carved and polished.

This autumn (2023) Sotheby’s HK is offering for sale the below fire opal, icy jadeite and diamond brooch with an estimate of HKD40,000-50,000 (approximately £4,000-5,000).

Nephrite comes in all shapes and forms. The above is set with two cabochon nephrite. A common and traditional piece of jewellery is the hololith bangle, made out of one piece of stone.

“Bi”, a flat disc with hole in the middle and representing heaven, is also made of one piece of stone.

They can be fashioned into any shape or form, it’s no wonder why they are one of Hollywood’s favourite go to pieces for a chic and understated statement.

Actress Emilia Clarke wore these exquisite earrings to the Emmys, and though they are most likely to be jadeite jade rather than nephrite, there are some affordable pieces retailing with similar spark.

Such as these teardrop earrings selling for £300.

Or this beaded necklace, retailing for £2,500.

If money is not an issue, then perhaps, its counterpart in jadeite jade could be an option, as with the opposing jadeite jade necklace, which sold with Sotheby’s in 2020, for USD 10.4 million.

Perhaps this is the price to pay for a little bit of heaven, as Confucius described jade, and who wouldn’t want that?