What makes Austrian emeralds so rare and unique?

Posted on February 14, 2025February 14, 2025 by Liz Bailey

A lot that stood out to me around the salerooms last week was this this pretty cluster ring. Sold at Woolley & Wallis and described as ‘An unusual emerald and diamond ring, late 19th century,’ this ring was set with a principal oval emerald cabochon and surrounded by cushion shaped diamonds.

Accompanied by a certificate from Gemmological Certification Services, the emerald’s origin was stated as Austrian, with indications of moderate clarity enhancement. The unusual factor, then, in this lot was the origin of the emerald! Usually at auction we can see Zambian (increasingly!) and the historically favoured Colombian emeralds. An emerald from an altogether different locale in Austria, was an unusual thing indeed!

The Austrian emerald deposit lies in the Habachtal Valley. Located in the Hohe Tauern National Park, and a favourite with hikers, this valley is known for its emerald deposits and rich mining history!

The first written reference to the Habachtal emeralds is in 1797, although in 1992, Roman jewels in the Treasure of Lyon-Vaise included emerald necklaces and earrings set with emeralds mined in the Habachtal Valley. These pieces are thought to have been buried for fear of Germanic raids and the coins allow its burial to be dated to after AD 258.

The first international appearance of Habachtal emeralds was in 1861 at the London World Industrial Exhibition. Mining operations by Samuel Goldschmidt began in the early 1860s, and he sold these crystals from his Viennese storefront. Following his death in the 1870s, the mines were ran by various English companies until around 1913 – purportedly selling the stones as ‘Indian emeralds’ “because the deposit was not known to most of the people in gem trade and would have sold for a much lower price.” (Laing Antiques).

The ring above dates to this later period of English owned mining in the Habachtal area and could well have been originally sold as an ‘Indian’ emerald. Identifying features for Habachtal emeralds are typically heavily included, with “highly-ordered graphite, and extremely water-rich melt inclusions.” (Rainer, 2020). Sold as Indian emeralds and typically assessed as lower quality owing to their multiple inclusions, examples of Habachtal emeralds are not frequently identified! Below is an example of a diamond and 2.10ct Austrian emerald ring currently retailing for €14,500.

Habachtal emeralds are still mined in the present day, although it much lower quantities than the late 19^th century. The yield is typically small scale and is reserved for collectors of specimens, much like the example below sold at Christies in 2023.

To arrange your own jewellery valuation, call us on 01883 722736 or email us on [email protected]

The Perfect Jewellery Gift for Valentine’s Day: Iconic Pieces They’ll Love

Posted on February 5, 2025February 6, 2025 by Helen Doyle

Valentine’s Day is celebrated annually on 14th February and has a surprisingly complex and layered history, blending ancient Roman traditions with Christian beliefs and medieval romance.

By the Victorian era, Valentine’s Day became a widely celebrated occasion, with flowers becoming common traditions. Today, Valentine’s Day is a global holiday expressing love and affection through various gestures and celebrations. There are also variations of the holiday including Galentine’s when one can celebrate friendships.

However you choose to celebrate, there is no getting away from the fact that it is fast approaching. With that in mind I am here to provide you with some expert guidance on how to choose the best items of jewellery this Valentine’s, for the one you love.

Tiffany & Co.

Arguably the most romantic of jewellers in the world, we couldn’t write about Valentine’s Day without mentioning Tiffany & Co., particularly a Tiffany & Co. engagement ring.

In 1887, Charles Lewis Tiffany, founder of Tiffany and Co., acquired an exceptional fancy yellow diamond from a mine in South Africa and it is known as The Tiffany diamond. It has been displayed in various settings throughout its history, with its most notable appearance as a pendant on a diamond necklace worn by Audrey Hepburn during a promotion of Breakfast at Tiffany’s in 1961.

The diamond, originally weighing 287.42 carats in its rough form, was sent to Paris where Tiffany’s chief gemmologist, Dr. George Frederick Kunz, cut the fancy yellow diamond into a beautiful, brilliant cushion-cut. It was here where Tiffany’s remarkable association with exquisite diamonds began.

Nowadays Tiffany & Co. is known to produce the most iconic engagement rings in the world, with the most popular style being The Tiffany Setting, distinguished by its 6 prongs/claws. This arrangement elevates the diamond well above the band allowing maximum light to enter the stone from all angles, therefore enhancing the diamond’s natural brilliance and sparkle and minimizing the amount of metal covering the stone. It is also held on a simple plain band ensuring that the diamond remains the centrepiece. Sales of the Tiffany engagement ring equate for 26% of their total sales. This remarkable success can be attributed to the iconic status of the brand, particularly the legendary Tiffany Setting introduced in 1886.

The price of a Tiffany Setting ring ranges anywhere from a few thousand up to six figure sums depending on the quality of the diamond.

The 1.65ct diamond single stone ring above has an insurance value of £75,000

Cartier Love bracelet

Nothing says love like a Cartier love bracelet. Created in 1969 by Italian jewellery designer Aldo Cipullo for Cartier, the bracelet was born as a unisex ‘modern handcuff’ with Cartier making the radical decision to leave the functional or decorative screws visible.

Its oval shape means it sits tight around the wearer’s wrist, and its physically screwed on to signify the permanence of true love, since two people are needed to secure the screws. The Love bracelet has become a symbol of love and commitment due to this design.

Today the bracelet is just as popular and it is rumoured that New York hospitals keep mini Love screwdrivers on the wards, in case they need to remove the bracelet in an emergency.

Its longevity and success is down to the design, according to Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s director of image, style and heritage. “For me, the Love bracelet is a success worldwide since it was created because of a combination of many different dimensions – first design, and second, symbolism. The design is linked to its meaning, because the screw, is the meaning of the object and the symbolic value is immediately visible through the very simple idea,” he explains. “The Love bracelet has become a permanent staple in modern style.”

Nowadays, the Cartier Love bracelet is seen on the wrists of many famous celebrities, including the Duke and Duchess of Sussex sporting matching Love bracelets on the cover of TIME magazine in 2020, while Meghan has been spotted wearing hers on numerous occasions over the years.

This year Cartier have released a brand-new Love Bracelet with a width of 4.8mm it the medium size with a slimmer and thicker versions available. This new version has an insurance value of £5,850.

Van Cleef and Aprels Alhambra

The Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra collection is seen as a symbol of enduring femininity, luck and love. It was in 1968 when the brand’s designers were captivated by the four-leaf clover motif and incorporating Art Deco influences, they created the iconic Alhambra pendant, with the initial design featuring a stylised quatrefoil shape set with mother-of-pearl.

It quickly gained popularity and over the years, the collection has expanded to encompass various interpretations of the Alhambra theme: bracelets, necklaces, earrings, rings and even watches, all adorned with gemstones and precious metals like mother-of-pearl, onyx, carnelian, turquoise, and diamonds.

De Beers Talisman

The De Beers Talisman collection is a line of fine jewellery that prominently features rough diamonds, highlighting their raw beauty by juxtaposing them with polished diamonds, creating a unique aesthetic that celebrates the natural, unrefined quality of rough stones, while still showcasing De Beers’ expertise in diamond cutting and setting.

The collection often utilises their “serti poinçon” technique to encapsulate the rough diamonds in the metal, giving them a distinct appearance.

The unisex collection is enjoyed by men and women.

Ruby

Rubies have been treasured throughout history for their beauty and symbolic meaning of passion, love, power, protection, and good luck. They feature prominently in royal crowns, ancient artifacts, and works of art. Fine rubies are gemstones prized for their vibrant red hue, intense brilliance, and enduring beauty.

They belong to the corundum mineral family, which also includes sapphires. Their mesmerizing red colour comes from trace amounts of chromium in their chemical structure. The most desirable rubies exhibit a vivid “pigeon’s blood” red – a rich, saturated hue with a hint of blue undertones. Other shades include purplish-red, orangish-red, and brownish-red, but the “pigeon’s blood” remains the rarest and most sought-after. It is the colour, clarity and origin which can contribute to a rubies value along with a lack of any lab treatment. Large fine natural examples with good colour can command very high prices.

Locations, like Myanmar (Burma), Madagascar, and Mozambique, are known for their exceptional quality.

No matter what gift you give or recieve this Valentine’s Day, ensure that you get it accurately valued for insurance purposes by calling us on 01883 722736 or emailing us on [email protected].

Make Mine a Marquise! The Fancy Cut Set to Shine in 2025

Posted on January 22, 2025January 23, 2025 by Liz Bailey

Whilst 2024 was undoubtedly the year of the oval engagement ring, 2025 looks to feature the marquise cut much more prominently!

According to the Rapaport Diamond Report Volume 47, no. 48 – marquise cut diamonds are benefitting from an “excellent market – the most expensive fancy shape – supported by shortages.” According to the list, these exclusive shapes can currently price in at up to 15% more than their shorter fancy cut counterparts – suggesting that these elongated fancy cuts are set for a good year ahead.

Celebrity influence naturally plays a role in the demand for fancy shapes. Selena Gomez’s engagement ring from Benny Blanco in December 2024 features a principal marquise cut diamond. Paying homage to her 2015 song “Good for You” in which she compares herself to a marquise cut diamond, this ring features a sizeable marquise cut stone accented beautifully with a round brilliant cut diamond band.

History of the Marquise Cut

The marquise shape is an elongated oval with pointed ends. This distinctive navette shape diamond dates to 18th century France and King Louis XV, who commissioned a stone fashioned in the shape of his lover Marquise de Pompadour’s lips. The marquise cut diamond was born!

Value Factors of Marquise Cut Diamonds

Universally with natural diamonds, of course the famous 4 Cs (colour, clarity, cut, carat weight) are the key determining factors for value with these stones. The better the colour grade either on the colourless or fancy colour scale, with minimal inclusions, excellent cut grade and maximum carat weight are all attributes of the most valuable stones.

Another incredibly important factor to consider particularly for elongated fancy shapes such as the marquise cut is the proportion, and more specifically, the length to width ratio! This ratio is deduced by dividing the length by the width – and much is due to personal preference however owing to the alignment of the facets, a slight deviation of the LWR or cut grade can result in undesirable optical effects such as the dreaded ‘bow tie’ (a dark shadow to the centre of the stone). This visually heavy optical effect of course not only minimises the brilliance of the stone but has a negative impact on the value.

Buyer Beware!

Above is an image of a 1ct marquise cut lab grown diamond, currently available to purchase online at only £365. As seen in the past year, the price of production for lab grown diamonds and therefore their subsequent retail prices are at an all-time low, with long term valuations set to look even lower and resale value almost negligible for synthetic diamonds.

To compare as closely as possible, 1ct natural marquise cut diamonds with identical colour, clarity and cut grades, fluorescence and similar length-width ratio to the above lab grown stone (D, VS1, Excellent, none, 1.9-2.3) are retailing currently between £3,500 and £8,290 on a reputable online retailers website.

This massive discrepancy in prices and of course continued value for natural stones is not to be taken lightly – we would recommend purchasing your natural diamonds from a reputable source, with notable laboratory certification, and of course, ensuring that in the long run you have adequate and continued cover through a thorough insurance valuation from our specialist team.

Exploring The Boodles National Gallery Collection

Posted on November 6, 2024November 11, 2024 by Aurélia Turrall

I was recently privileged enough to handle a very unique piece of jewellery by Boodles: The Boodles National Gallery Collection’s Play of Light Lake Keitele bangle.

In light of one of the nation’s favourite museum’s 200^th anniversary, Boodles has created a special National Gallery Collection of jewellery. The National Gallery is considered one of the world’s greatest art collections and open its doors in 1824, after the British government purchased 38 paintings from the heirs of John Julius Angerstein that same year.

The museum now holds paintings by Botticelli, Caravaggio, Cézanne, Constable, Ingres, Holbein, Seurat, Titian…to name but a few. But it wasn’t always a guarantee that these masterpieces would be remain within the collection, safely. During the Blitz, the collection was distributed in safe houses, until it found its way to a Welsh slate mine, where the artwork stayed between 1941-45. When the bombing was less intense, the museum decided to show one painting a month. This is the origin of the museum’s current Picture of the Month. The picture was taken down every evening for safe storage in the museum’s underground strong room.

Now, 200 years after the museum opened, Boodles have celebrated the extraordinary collection by creating a unique line of high jewellery inspired by the artists and their creations.

The paintings have generated four specific themes around which the jeweller “plays” with: Perspective, Brushstrokes, Motherhood and Play of Light.

Perspective

Inspired by Canaletto’s view of Venice and mastering of perspective, Boodles have created the Perspective Collar set with 12 main Ashoka diamonds weighing 9.04cts total, and 14.29cts of remaining diamonds. A jewelled architectural delight, it is mounted in platinum and reflects the Doge’s palace beautifully.

“The Ashoka cut diamond was perfect for Perspective, the vertical lines and unique cut worked so well with the idea of an architectural landscape” says Boodles Director of Design, Rebecca Hawkins.

Brushstroke

For the Brushstroke collection, “we drew on for inspiration [from] the brushstroke technique used by particular artists. We found that within some paintings, such as Van Gogh’s Sunflowers, 1888, the brushstrokes employed were very visible- you could literally see the way in which the paint had been applied to paper. This in turn inspired our Brushstrokes suites.”

The use of aquamarine in this collection is a statement to the use of blue brushstrokes in Cézanne artwork, along with the feminine rose gold and scintillating diamonds, giving this collection a dynamism echoed in his technique.

Motherhood

In Motherhood collection, there is a clear selection of “soft” gems and colours. The pendants, rings and bracelets all use diamonds, but also pink diamonds, and moonstone, where “pear and oval shaped diamonds [are] nestled together, reflecting the idea of an embrace.”

In the Motherhood Aquamarine pendant, the use of aquamarine reminds me of water and of babies in utero, with the moonstone’s shimmering warm colours, all encompassed within the solid and indestructible diamond frame. But of course, it also echoes the Madonna with child. The interpretation is up to the eye of the beholder. This pendant retails for £15,000, while its counterpart in diamond and pink diamond retails for £29,000.

Play of Light

In the fourth collection, Boodles designers concentrated on colour and how the same colour can have many different tones. Just as a diamond can range from D-Z and fancy colours range from Faint to Fancy Deep.

“In our Play of Light collection for example we used different gradients of the same colour diamond or gemstone to reflect the detailed dabs of colours found in the paintings. We used yellow diamonds, which gradually became lighter until they flowed into white diamonds, or soft pastel blues deepening to a darker blue.”

Four main pictures were the base for inspiration: Seurat’s The Morning Walk, Monet’s Water-Lilies, Pierre-August Renoir’s Moulin Huet Bay, Guernsey, and Akseli Gallen-Kallela’s Lake Keitele.

The Play of Light Rose Gold Drop Earrings use a variety of gems, including vari-coloured sapphires, tsavorite garnets (green), vari-cut diamonds and rose gold for added softness and extra shimmer. They retail for £23,500 and are accompanied by a necklace and a bracelet, each retailing at £28,000 and £76,500

The piece in this collection I was lucky enough to discover was inspired Finnish painter Akseli Gallen-Kallela’s Lake Keitele painted in 1905.

“Boodles designers responded to the distinctive zigzag pattern on the water’s surface in Lake Keitele, 1905 by Akseli Gallen-Kallela, now mirrored by rows of marquise cut diamonds.”

In each of the pieces, the reflection of the water is represented with the use of graduated brilliant and marquise-cut diamonds, each serving as a mirror of light, with more or less fire depending on the light. Just as in the painting by Akseli Gallen-Kallela there are white and blue tones but also specs of red and green and yellow. It is the special always varying shimmer of the stones, that make this collection so unique.

The earrings use 2.79cts of marquise-cut diamonds and 1.44cts of round brilliant-cut diamonds. The necklace uses respectively 3.05cts and 0.86cts and the bangle is set with 22 principal marquise-cut diamonds weighing 6.99cts, and 4.59cts of brilliant-cut diamonds. The water’s movement is here “mirrored by rows of marquise cut diamonds to create a mesmerising piece.”

It was also mentioned that the design reminded someone of a DNA chain. Whether you take your inspiration from impressionism art or science, if the result is as beautiful as this collection is then there truly is no limit!

To book your jewellery valuation call us on 01883 722736 or email [email protected]

World’s Second Largest Gem-Quality Diamond Unearthed in Historic Find

Posted on September 26, 2024November 25, 2024 by Liz Bailey

What will happen to the stone that has dominated international headlines for the last month?

The discovery of a 2,492 carat diamond from the Karowe Mine, Botswana in August of 2024 will come as news to very few. This incredible discovery was publicised across every major international news channel following the announcement from Canadian owned corporation Lucara on 21^st August.

Images of the rough diamond filling the palm of a hand, positioned alongside a diminutive golf ball for size reference, as well as videos of the stone being inspected and admired by Botswana’s president Mokgweetsi Masisi have filled news feeds worldwide. Rightly so, this incredible find is the largest gem-quality diamond uncovered since the discovery of the 3,106 carat Cullinan diamond from the Premier No. 2 Mine in Cullinan, South Africa in 1905.

The Cullinan Diamond – a Precedent?

When the largest ever diamond was unearthed nearly 100 years ago, South Africa was still a British colony. The Cullinan was offered for sale in London in 1905 and failed to sell initially. It was purchased in 1907 by the Transvaal Colony government and was subsequently presented as a gift to King Edward VII by Prime Minister Louis Botha.

The 3,106 carat rough stone was sent to Amsterdam to be cut by Joseph Asscher & Co (famed for creating the Asscher cut in 1902). It purportedly took Joseph Asscher four days to prepare the stone to cleave, and eight months to polish the original rough stone into nine large principal stones and ninety-seven small brilliant cuts.

Clockwise from top left: II, I, III, IX, VII, V, IV, VI, VIII.

The yield of the nine largest stones are detailed in size order and the entirety of the collection is housed within the collection of the Crown Jewels as follows:

Cullinan I – otherwise known as the Star of Africa –530.20 carat pear-cut stone. Set in the Sovereign’s Royal Sceptre.

Cullinan II – 317.40 carat cushion-cut stone. Set into the band of the Imperial State Crown.

Cullinan III – 94.40 carat pear-cut stone. Set into Queen Mary’s Crown.

Cullinan IV – 63.60 carat cushion-cut stone. Set into Queen Mary’s Crown.

Cullinan V – 18.80 carat pear-triangular cut stone. Set into Queen Mary’s Crown.

Cullinan VI – 11.50 carat marquise-cut stone. Set into a diamond and emerald necklace, Crown Jewels.

Cullinan VII – 8.80 carat marquise-cut stone. Set into a brooch alongside the Cullinan XIII, Crown Jewels.

Cullinan VIII – 6.80 carat oblong-cut stone. Set into Queen Mary’s Delhi Durbar parure.

Cullinan IX – 4.39 carat pear-cut stone. Set into the Cullinan IX ring, Crown Jewels.

A fair comparison? The Lucara Diamond vs. the Cullinan Diamond

As of January 2024, the Cullinan I diamond alone was purportedly valued at $430 million. However, there are notable differences in these discoveries aside from their size, and the context in which they were unearthed.

Location and Diamond Type: The Lucara Diamond hails from Botswana – featured in Lucara’s press release is a reference to Type IIa diamonds from this source. Type IIa diamonds are incredibly rare, with no measurable impurities such as nitrogen or boron. This lack of impurities results in an exceptional colour and clarity that has long been prized and intrinsically far more valuable than other colourless diamond types. Similarly, the Cullinan diamond was mined from a source known to yield Type IIa diamonds. In both cases, there is no confirmation of diamond type, merely speculation at this stage.

Cutting Techniques – Brilliantly recorded in Matthew Hart’s Diamond: A Journey to the Heart of an Obsession (2002), Joseph Asscher hand polished and faceted the Cullinan diamond, purporting “that when he prepared to cleave the largest diamond ever known … he had a doctor and nurse standing by and when he finally struck the diamond … he fainted dead away”. Advances in technology since the Cullinan’s time have ensured a CAD mapping of possible diamond cuts, and precision laser cutting that remove any chance of human error and also maximise the yield from a crystal.

Different times – It goes without saying that politics and customs are incredibly different nowadays, it is highly likely the diamond will be offered for sale and not be presented to a monarchy! Potential buyers of the stone include the LVMH group, who purchased a 1,758 carat stone from Lucara in 2019 for an undisclosed sum, or Laurence Graff of Graff Diamonds, who purchased the ‘Lesedi La Rona’ 1,109 carat stone from the same mine in 2017 for $53 million.

A contemporary comparison – the Graff ‘Lesedi La Rona’

Above: Laurence Graff inspecting the 1,109 carat Lesedi La Rona

Discovered in November 2015 at the same location as the 2,942 carat diamond in question, the ‘Lesedi La Rona’ weighed 1,109 carats and was named “Our Light” in the Tswana language. At the time, this remarkable find was also the world’s second largest gem-quality diamond to ever have been discovered. Similarly to the Cullinan, the Lesedi La Rona was initially offered for sale at Sothebys in 2016, failing to sell with a reserve of $70 million.

Nevertheless, the Lesedi La Rona piqued the interest of Laurence Graff of the prestigious eponymous Graff diamonds and was purchased in 2017 for $53 million. Speaking of his purchase, Graff said “This was the first time in over 100 years that the chance to cut such a historic stone had presented itself, which was tremendously exciting,..We had an immense duty to cut the very, very best diamond imaginable from the Lesedi La Rona. We had to do justice to its impeccable natural beauty.”

The planning for cutting the Lesedi La Rona was meticulous. The diamond was so large that the team at Graff could not analyse the stone with their existing equipment. A new scanner was built specifically for this stone with custom software to cater for its size and scale. After months of analysis, the plan for cutting and polishing the diamond was agreed, and the cutting of the stone could begin.

It took two years to cut the Lesedi La Rona. The diamond was cut with state-of-the-art lasers and required hundreds of hours for the table facet of the principal stone alone. Polished by Graff’s team, the Lesedi La Rona finally yielded 67 diamonds, including a double record-breaking 302.37 carat square emerald cut – the world’s largest square emerald cut diamond.

This principal diamond was named the Lesedi La Rona, and also holds the world’s record as the largest diamond with the highest colour and clarity ever certified by the GIA, with D colour, and “high clarity.” This stone was unveiled in November 2019, and is still owned by Laurence Graff

The Lesedi La Rona’s sister stone is also a record-breaking diamond. Named ‘The Infinity Diamond’ this stone is a 157.80 carat D colour heart-shaped diamond. It’s the world’s largest heart-shaped diamond of this quality.

Set into Graff’s Twombly tiara, the Infinity Diamond is still in the possession of Graff. The remaining 65 diamonds were offered for sale to Graff’s clientele in 2019, and prices for these pieces have not been published. Ranging from 1 to 26 carats, these stones all bear a GIA report number and ‘Lesedi La Rona’ laser inscription to the girdle.

The fate and value of the 2,942 carat Lucara diamond remains unclear. Speculations in the Financial Times have reported that the stone could be worth upwards of $40 million in today’s market. Who will be the buyer of the stone? And what record breaking and yield maximising configuration of faceted diamonds will be revealed? Perhaps the largest ever pear cut diamond (this would have to beat ‘The Rock’ at 228.31 carats – selling at Christies in 2019 for £17.7 million) or perhaps it will supersede the world records already set by the Lesedi La Rona, with a 303 carat + square emerald cut, or a 158 carat + heart cut. No further information has been released at this time, so we will wait to see the impressive yield that this crystal will produce!

Think Pink – The allure and rarity of pink diamonds

Posted on September 3, 2024November 15, 2024 by Aurélia Turrall

I had the privilege of getting my hands on a pink diamond, though a very brief encounter, it was certainly an enjoyable one. Having valued jewellery for almost fifteen years now, the opportunity to observe and inspect pink diamonds is still a rare occasion. Let alone a pink diamond from the Argyle mine in Australia.

Since their discovery in the early 17th century in India, pink diamonds have also been mined in Brazil, South Africa, Tanzania, Canada, Australia and Russia. It is believed that around 80% of the world’s pink diamonds now originate from the Argyle mine in Kimberley, Western Australia, which sadly closed in 2020. From the mine’s 20 million carat annual output, only 0.1% are classified as pink diamonds. In 2018, the GIA selected a sample of 1,000 pink diamonds graded between 2008 and 2016 and found that 83% weighed less than one carat.

Why are pink diamonds so special?

Unlike blue or yellow diamonds, who get their colour from trace elements such as boron or nitrogen, pink diamonds are pink due to crystal distortion. When nitrogen is contained in a pink diamond, it is generally concentrated along the glide planes of the diamonds.

Other aspects of deformation are involved to create the colour pink and is often the cause for high colour saturation making these diamonds the most expensive diamonds to be sold at auction.

In 1999, De Beers found a 132.5 carat rough diamond, which took two years to cut and polish. This resulted in a 59.60 carat Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid Pink diamond, the largest the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has ever graded with the highest colour and clarity grades from the GIA for pink diamonds.

The Pink Star was sold in Hong Kong in 2017 for HK$553 million, £56 million. That’s almost £1 million per carat.

As with other coloured diamonds, pink diamonds are graded on their colour by the GIA using the classing: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid. Similarly, to other coloured diamonds, Fancy Vivid is the most sought-after colour. In a GIA study conducted in 2022, it was determined that only 2% of pink Type IIa diamonds were graded as Fancy Vivid Pink.

Similar in hue to the Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink diamond I had the pleasure of handling is the spectacular ‘The Spirit of the Rose’. The diamond got its name from Vaslav Nijinky’s legendary ballet, Le Spectre de la rose. The 14.83 carat Fancy Vivid Purple-Pink, Internally Flawless, Type IIa diamond was mined and cut from a 27.85-carat clear pink rough diamond, Russia’s largest pink crystal ever mined and was known as the ‘Nijinksy’.

When one understands all these factors impacting the rarity of such coloured diamonds, it becomes more comprehensible to attribute price tags for such exceptional stones. Nature overwhelms us with its beauty, and sometimes we are lucky enough to spend time observing it.

To find out more about getting a jewellery valuation, contact us here today!

The rise of the ‘Divorce ring’

Posted on August 23, 2024August 29, 2024 by Liz Bailey

A new phenomenon?

A huge jewellery trend of 2024 has been the rise of the ‘divorce rings,’ propelled into the spotlight by none other than supermodel Emily Ratajkowski. Following her divorce from Sebastian Bear-McClard in 2022, she revealed that she had remodelled her ‘toi et moi’ diamond engagement ring into two separate rings via an Instagram post in March of 2024. The images of these two rings were simply captioned “divorce rings,” signalling and representing a transformation in her jewellery to coincide with the transformation taking place in her life. She explained to Vogue, “The rings represent my own personal evolution… I don’t think a woman should be stripped of her diamonds just because she’s losing a man.”

From the original engagement ring, set with pear cut and princess cut diamonds, Emily commissioned designer Alison Lou to create two separate pieces. Firstly, a single stone ring in a yellow gold setting for the pear to be worn on the little finger, and secondly a three stone ring from the princess cut, with additional trapezoid cut diamonds either side in a bi-colour setting. From one original engagement ring, these two complementary dress rings mark a transformational and empowering moment in her life, as she explained to Vogue “Somehow, these rings feel like a reminder that I can make myself happy in ways I never imagined.”

Although a seemingly fresh and somewhat viral idea of 2024 thanks to Emrata’s Instagram post, the repurposing of sentimental jewellery is nothing new. Throughout the early 20th century, wedding bands themselves were altered by jewellers both in America and the United Kingdom to signify a divorce.

It was Chicago-born Mrs Marina Parke who purportedly invented the notion of the ‘divorce ring’ in 1911, when she had her wedding ring from her husband Fred sized down to wear on the little finger of her right hand – she has been quoted to say that as a result “new acquaintances no longer enquire about your husband, and old friends who have not yet heard of the divorce, perceiving the ring, are saved from embarrassing themselves and you by asking awkward questions”.

In the UK, women were recorded as having their wedding bands altered variously – with zigzags cut through, resizing and worn on the little finger. Designs specifically for the little finger followed, including black enamel sections added to former wedding rings, the addition of a broken Cupid’s bow, or simply the word ‘FREE’ inscribed to the inside of the band. Moving into the 1930s, the divorce ring was “quite glamorous, shaped as a circle of diamonds or pearls, interrupted by a coloured gemstone. The breaking of the circle symbolised the severed marriage union.” (The Times).

The act of repurposing and re-wearing sentimental jewellery in this way does certainly add a degree of autonomy and transformation to a piece. There are of course instances in which remodelling jewellery can decrease value – especially when removed from a designer’s setting, altering an antique jewel, or when the heat of the jeweller’s torch poses far too much of a risk to the gem material encased within. In any case, it is highly recommended to seek advice from a specialist, and of course up-to-date valuations for any items to guarantee sufficient cover for your jewellery both before and after any alterations are made.

The Power of the Parure

Posted on July 16, 2024August 9, 2024 by Liz Bailey

The release of series 3 of Bridgerton on Netflix has provided viewers with a visual feast – brightly hued costumes, sensational floral displays, grand balls, outlandish wigs, and of course – some fabulous jewellery! Whilst adapted to the modern -day audience and of course not strictly true to Queen Charlotte’s time, this beautiful display of gem-set jewellery should quite rightly draw attention to the truly amazing pieces produced in the late 18th and early 19th century.

Seen throughout the series and most ostentatiously on Queen Charlotte herself is the parure. Deriving from the French ‘parer’ ‘to adorn,’ the Parure refers to a set of jewels intended to be worn together.

The Bridgerton books by Julia Quinn are set between 1813 and 1827, covering the Regency period and beyond. By this time, parures set with precious and semi-precious stones were worn for court and formal occasions, with an abundance of jewellery at the very height of fashion.

The finest parures and demi-parures would consist of hair ornaments, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, bodice brooches and stick pins set with aquamarine, topaz, citrine and amethyst. Owing to their age, many parts and the frequent remodelling of jewellery over time, complete parures in their original form, with fitted cases are relatively rare and ever-increasing in value.

As seen in the aquamarine example above, fashionable, pastel-coloured gemstones such as aquamarine, pink topaz, and golden topaz were set within richly hued cannetille settings. Particularly sought-after at auction and therefore increasing in value are pink and golden topaz, whether in closed or the later open back settings.

A sub-section of Georgian jewellery that can very frequently be undervalued or even be dismissed as costume jewellery is paste jewellery. Although set with glass instead of crystalline material, this colourful and vibrant jewellery is increasingly sought-after by collectors. Paste is a notoriously soft material, prone to scratches and chips particularly if stored with other jewellery, so survivors of paste jewellery from this time command a premium. As seen with the following two examples, blue paste in particular has been performing incredibly well at auctions, but examples in all colours can be found in jewellery boxes up and down the country!

Rivière necklaces have very much had the spotlight on the latest series of Bridgerton, with the ‘diamond of the season’ Francesca Bridgerton adorning an array of these classically elegant and universally adored necklaces. Set with a wide range of gemstones, from diamonds to agates to cameos, the rivière necklace consists of a gently graduated pattern and continues in popularity to the modern day! As seen in the example below, rivière necklaces from this time period are frequently seen with a hoop surmount to the principal stone, allowing for the addition of a drop pendant. Values can depend upon the age, condition, gemstone identity, saturation, settings and carat weight.

For an up-to-date, confidential valuation of your Bridgerton-era jewellery by our nationwide, specialist team, contact us.

This week’s pick – Trooping the Colour and Princess Catherine

Posted on June 27, 2024August 9, 2024 by Aurélia Turrall

What fan of Princess Catherine would I be if this week’s pick didn’t focus on her one-off appearance for the King’s birthday?

Princess Catherine delighted the nation on the 15th June by attending the celebrations. With her family by her side and gleaming smile, I don’t think anyone could tell she was undergoing any treatment.

She wore a Jenny Packham dress, reworked from last year’s coronation.

Long-sleeved with thin black piping at the waist and an oversized bow on her lapel, she completed the look with a white Philip Treacy headpiece, white pumps and a black clutch.

As for the jewellery, the Princess of Wales wore Cassandra Goad Cavolfiore earrings in 18ct yellow gold, set with 2mm white cultured pearls and approximately 0.30ct of diamonds. These retail for £5,620.

One could accentuate the look with the matching Carioca cuff bracelet by Cassandra Goad, retailing for £9,580.

As a Colonel of Irish Guards, the Princess added to her jewels, the Irish Guards Regimental brooch.

The Irish Guards, to whom the Princess wrote a letter wishing them good luck for the event and to let them know how proud she was of them, were among the British troops participating in the parade.

Little fact about this year’s Trooping of the Colour: for the first time in more than 100 years, soldiers on parade were allowed to have beards, approved by the King earlier this year and which applies across the Army.

The Princess has once again shown how devoted and courageous she is: being scrutinised by millions during these times could certainly not have been easy. But, let’s be honest, she smashed it! My only glamour during my treatment was putting on my wig for very special occasions!

Though delighted to see the Princess at a public event, she has warned she is “not out of the woods yet” and it will be some time before she makes another appearance.

Until her treatment is over, I wish her and all those affected by the disease much strength.

The Trooping of the Colour marks the official birthday of the British Sovereign and has been celebrated in June for over 260 years.

Over 1400 parading soldiers, 200 horses and 400 musicians participate, together with an RAF fly-past.

The operational soldiers wear the ceremonial uniform of red tunics and bearskin hats and are inspected by the Sovereign once they reach Horse Guard’s Parade in Whitehall. The parade moves from Buckingham Palace and down The Mall to Horse Guard’s Parade and carries on to Whitehall.

Pick of the week highlights of the Bonhams jewellery sale

Posted on June 19, 2024November 11, 2024 by Aurélia Turrall

I had the pleasure of viewing the upcoming jewellery sale at Bonhams on New Bond Street this week. I received such a warm greeting from an old colleague at the front desk, and proceeded to head to the viewing room. Now, some might say they are too scared or intimidated to walk through these halls, let alone have the audacity to look at a jewellery sale on display. But here’s the secret… It’s open to everyone! And you should take advantage of these viewings. Think of it as a free museum entrance with endless exhibitions of exceptional goods, which have been, more often than not, hidden away from the public for generations.

I had the pleasure of being shown some highlights of this 118 lot sale.

These included a pair of Castellani sapphire bracelets from 1865.

These bracelets of Byzantine inspiration really are beautifully made. Castellani is one of the best when it comes to archaeological revival style jewellery and these pieces are no exception. “To have one bracelet is wonderful but to have two is very rare” said Jean Ghika, Global Head of Jewellery. With an estimate of £25,000 – 35,000, I am sure they will find a new home.

Still in the antique jewellery section of the sale are these spectacular “Night and Day” diamond earrings.

Still in their original box, these earrings can be altered depending on the mood. One can wear the diamonds for a dash of dazzle or cover them up with the cannetille beads. It is an extraordinary piece and statement to earlier craftmanship. They have an estimate of £12,000 – 18,000.

It should come as no surprise that my eye was immediately drawn to an early 20th century Cartier piece: an enamel and diamond fob watch circa 1910.

The delicate purple guilloché enamel is highlighted by a central diamond and a diamond border. The reverse is everything that makes Cartier watches: blue steeled hands, engine-turned dial and attention to detail. The very attractive estimate of £6,000 – 8,000 is bound to call out collectors.

Amongst the highlights is a sapphire and diamond cluster ring, circa 1890 with an estimate of £60,000 – 80,000. Why the price tag? That would be due to the origin of the sapphire: Kashmir with no evidence of treatment. Though a little abraided on the facet edges, a quick repolish would restore this stone and ring to its original glamourous state.

This piece shows once more the importance of getting gems certificated, as origin or colour and clarity can affect its value dramatically. This is even more apparent with the “Toi et Moi” blue and pink diamond crossover ring by Mouawad.

Both diamonds weigh a little over 5 carats, natural Fancy Intense Blue colour, VVS2 clarity and natural Fancy Purple-Pink colour, I1 clarity.

Bonhams says: “It is estimated that as little as 1 in 10,000 gem-quality diamonds extracted from the Earth’s crust show noticeable colour and of these stones, an exceedingly small percentage are blue or pink. The majority of these rare marvels of nature are under 2.00 carats in weight and stones exceeding 5.00 carats, are even rarer. Stones with high intensity colour grades such as ‘Fancy Deep’, ‘Fancy Vivid’ and ‘Fancy Intense’ are considered some of the most desirable colour classifications by GIA.” Due to its rarity the estimate for this ring is £1,000,000 – 1,500,000.

The Bonhams London Jewels sale that was held on 13th June garnered extraordinary results, with a total of £6,590,562, with 78% sold by lot.