Holding it all together: The Key to Keeping Jewellery Secure

Posted on March 27, 2025March 28, 2025 by Jenny Knott

Eagle eyed observers at the Commonwealth Service on 11th March this year, noticed that something was absent from The Princess of Wales’ otherwise immaculate and eye-catching ensemble.

One tiny diamond was missing from the drop pearl and diamond earrings that she was wearing. These earrings had been gifted to Princess Diana by Collingwoods. They were a favourite of Diana and are now much loved by Princess Catherine. Few jewellery collections are better maintained than those of the Royal family, yet this event shows that accidents can happen to even the best cared for jewels. For those of us without entourages to look after these things, we need to be even more vigilant about our jewellery.

Buying, acquiring or even inheriting jewellery can be so wonderfully exciting that when picking out the perfect necklace, earrings, bracelet or ring, the last thing that most people consider is the clasp, catch or claws. However, we should give these much more attention, as this is that will keep those much prized stones in place, or even keep the necklace or bracelet around your neck or wrist. I write as someone who found a much loved chain link bracelet in an umbrella stand when it had broken as I took a coat off and inadvertently flung the bracelet into this receptacle. The discovery was several years after I thought I had lost it forever; not all mishaps end so well.

As heart-breaking as it is to discover your jewellery has been lost or damaged, it will add insult to injury to then be told that your insurance policy does not cover you. Jewellery insurance typically covers damage, theft, or loss, but whether it specifically covers clasps and settings depends on the terms of the policy. Many policies state that claws and clasps must be regularly checked by an expert and this, along with valuations, are often able to highlight possible problems before they become a disaster.

Things of which to be mindful include:

Remember that gold is a soft material, the higher the carat of gold the softer it is, therefore claws on rings are susceptible to wearing down, or catching on threads of clothes and peeling back.
Clasps on necklaces can suffer loss of their spring mechanism.
Links in a bracelet can wear and become thin, as can the shanks on rings, especially when worn stacked with other rings. Shanks can split.
Pearls and bead necklaces should always be knotted so stop beads spilling everywhere if broken. Knotted necklaces should be checked regularly, especially if they are frequently worn.

There are some easy ways to help mitigate against the chance of accidental damage or loss.

Rings:

Claws do not necessarily need to be replaced; they can often be retipped.

Clasps:

Clasps are critical to ensure that jewellery stays in place. There are many choices of clasps. The jump ring or spring ring clasp. This is the most common and consists of a metal jump ring with a spring loaded mechanism which opens and closes with applied pressure. The lobster claw clasp, which works in a similar way to the jump ring clasp but are often larger. Both work well unless the spring mechanisms fail. Antique necklaces often have box clasps, which have a tab or prong which fits into the ‘box’ and snaps into place. These work well as long as the fit stays tight.

Safety chains:

These are small chains attached to jewellery which add an extra level of additional security to prevent loss. On bracelets and necklaces, a safety chain will join the ends should the clasp fail. On a brooch it is often attached to a small pin which is to be used in tandem with the main brooch pin.

Earring backs:

Unless your earrings have integral fittings I think the safest fittings are alpha backs. You can see from the diagram that the posts are notched, and the spring clasps ensure that they can’t come away. If you have earrings with a shepherd’s crook fitting, which are common with antique pendant earrings, you can add an extra level of security with a plastic stopper.

As the Princess of Wales images proves accidents do happen but reducing the chances of mishaps might save your precious jewellery. Precious does not just apply to value, sentimental attachment can be far more emotive than actual cost.

The three crucial steps are:

Have clasps, claws and settings regularly checked by an expert, especially if after checking your policy your insurance is predicated on this as a requirement.
Repair and replace broken, elements in your jewellery and regularly restring necklaces.
Buy clasps, safety chains and earring backs that are best suited to the security of your jewellery.

TEFAF Maastricht: The Jewellery & Watches That Stole the Show

Posted on March 20, 2025March 20, 2025 by Liz Bailey

The European Fine Art Foundation, or TEFAF was founded in 1988, and holds two major international fairs per year, the TEFAF New York, covering Modern and Contemporary Art and Design, as well as its flagship event, the TEFAF Maastricht, which ran from 15^th-20^th March this year.

TEFAF Maastricht showcases 7,000 years of art history and provides international dealers and collectors with the opportunity to present and acquire fine and museum quality works, including paintings, sculpture, furniture, collectables, books, and of course – fine jewellery and watches.

If, like me, you have missed your first-class ticket to New York this week, here are my ‘top picks’ of the pieces on display at this year’s fair.

Surely one of the jewellery ‘headliners’ at this year’s fair is of course Van Cleef & Arpels, who were exhibiting around 30 pieces available to purchase from their heritage collection. A collection I would personally love to see, the selected pieces reflect the maison’s impact and excellence in 20^th century jewellery design.

The Orsay Bracelet, a platinum ruby and diamond bangle with VCA’s signature ‘mystery setting’ – an innovation in the 1930s of setting stones with seemingly no metal holding them in place – and a brand hallmark that continues into present collections. This bangle dates from 1994.

Another masterpiece on display is a platinum, turquoise and diamond necklace from the 1950s. Dating to circa 1955, this exquisite piece reflects the brand’s appreciation for jewellery history, decorated with floral garlands and a graduated design, and of course fine turquoise drops.

Epoque Fine Jewels from Belgium were also at the fair, exhibiting an incredible Art Nouveau gold, diamond, enamel and glass choker by René Lalique. Dating to circa 1905, this exceptional choker necklace is interspersed with Lalique’s wonderful glass panels moulded with thistle flowers and accented beautifully with a rich yellow gold setting, brown enamel border and sparkling diamond detailing. This was a real treat to see in person!

Contemporary jewels to really catch my eye from the fair are on offer from Hemmerle, Feng J and Margot Mckinney. Hemmerle are previewing a pair of beautifully naturalistic pinecone earrings cast in copper and white gold, and accented with natural pearls and diamonds. Meanwhile, Australian fourth generation jeweller Margot McKinney has a typically vibrant, vivid and colourful collection of jewels that encompass a wonderful exuberance and joy- it is hard to pick a favourite!

Somlo London of Burlington Arcade have on display two beautiful Patek Philippe pocket watches, each exceptional in their own right, with an option for him and for her.

The first is an 18ct gold Perpetual Calendar hunter pocket watch with equation of time. This fine timepiece dates to 1982, and is double stamped with Patek Philippe, and the retailer of the piece, Beyer of Zurich. A sophisticated, and complicated timepiece, this watch displays the difference between mean solar time, or our conventional time, and true solar time, based on the actual position of the sun. Owing to the Earth’s orbit, this discrepancy can fluctuate throughout the year, and is reflected in the -15 and +15 subsidiary scale to 12 – now how many watches can do that!

My second selection from Somlo is this beautifully decorated Patek Philippe fob watch, crafted circa 1889. Cased in 18ct gold and detailed with split pearls, this fob watch is hand painted to the case back with an enamel portrait of Saint Fabiola, an early Christian Saint.

So there we have it, my round up of the TEFAF works and exhibitors to keep on your radar, whether you are lucky enough to attend this international event, or, like me, will be looking on enviously! Let us know which pieces have caught your eye!

To arrange a jewellery valuation contact us on 01883 722736 or email [email protected]

Diamond Prices and Jewellery Insurance – The Truth Behind the Headlines

Posted on February 27, 2025February 27, 2025 by Annabell Parry

Anyone in the jewellery or related industries can’t open their laptop without being hit by another doom-laden headline about diamond prices.

The latest reports declare that Anglo American, the majority owner of De Beers, has published another vast write-down of its investment. Meanwhile, Alrosa, the Russian diamond giant, has been propped up by the Russian government. Both companies are reportedly stockpiling around $2 billion worth of unsold diamonds in an increasingly challenging global market, driven by geopolitical tensions and advancing technology.

These are mining giants, and the headlines are dramatic. However, it takes around two years for a diamond to move from the mine to the shop window. This is a crucial factor when valuing an engagement ring. Despite the headlines, these market shifts do not immediately affect valuations or replacement costs. Diamond prices fluctuate constantly, and experienced valuers rely on top trade sources such as RapNet. The best valuers consult at least three independent sources for each stone they assess.

A knowledgeable valuer will also understand the impact of Russian sanctions introduced in 2024, the conflict in the Middle East, and the downturn in Chinese middle-class spending. All of these factors influence diamond pricing and the ability to source replacements in case of loss.

The Danger of Headlines

Professional brokers, insurers, and jewellery owners are often short on time, scanning dozens of headlines each day. Decisions made solely on headlines risk being based on incomplete or misleading information. At worst, they could be influenced by an opinion piece paid for by a company with something to sell.

Diamonds hold a unique place in the retail market, as they have for centuries. Once reserved for royalty and the wealthiest elites, diamonds became a mainstream expectation by the 1950s, particularly as engagement rings for modern, independent women.

The Perception of Falling Prices

“But diamond prices are falling,” you may say.

Historically, younger buyers and the bridal market have been major consumers of small natural diamonds. However, over the past decade, their social feeds have been flooded with man-made diamonds (not ‘laboratory-grown’ which is a misnomer) and high-quality, stylish dress jewellery from brands like TJC and Pandora. The shift in pricing, environmental concerns, and changing consumer preferences have had a major impact on the lower-to-mid market.

It is true that diamonds under 1.50ct have seen price drops, in some cases by as much as 30%, as their key buyers have moved away.

Prices are per diamond for a round brilliant cut, F colour VS1 clarity GIA diamond Report in March of each year.

These are approximate selling prices in the UK at that time with the historic approximate retail margins and timely interest rates taken into consideration.

But Do Not Be Fooled

The high-net-worth market is thriving.

Diamonds over 2ct have always been beyond the reach of most buyers, making them the preferred size for professionals and affluent individuals. Second marriages, milestone anniversaries, or the sale of a business often drive purchases at this level. This is not the market that man-made diamonds have disrupted.

For high-net-worth and ultra-high-net-worth clients, jewellery values are not falling. Rubies bought in the 1990s, heirloom Art Deco and Cartier pieces, and upgraded engagement rings all hold their worth. In fact, many of my clients own multiple engagement rings, one for weekday wear and another for weekends.

Man-made diamonds are certainly purchased, but often as travel jewellery or gifts for daughters rather than as investment pieces.

A glance at recent fine jewellery auctions shows that branded vintage pieces from Cartier, Verdura, and Van Cleef & Arpels continue to command strong prices, along with larger, certified diamonds. These are not easily replaced and require an expert valuer to determine a proper replacement figure. Some brands such as Cartier and Tiffany increase their prices twice a year. On average the basic beautiful LOVE bangle from Cartier increases £300 every year.

New

Pragnalls Jewellers 1.51ct - £18,000	Pragnalls Jewellers 3.02ct - £74,650
Second Hand

Cartier yellow and white diamond cross over ring Wooley & Wallis auctioneers Estimate £4-6k Hammer £9.5k	Victorian antique cluster ring Harper Field Auctions Estimate £8,500 - £10,500, Hammer £28,500	1980's Cartier Panthere earrings $66,000 at Opulent Jewellers - USA

Additional Factors

Another important factor is the price of gold – the value of a 1 Troy Ounce of gold has increased 819% from 2000 – 2024, as displayed in this graph:

Pound / Dollar interest rates have fallen and retail margins have had to be pared back to compete with global and technological competition and wages for goldsmiths, polishers, cutters, apprentices, setters have in some cases tripled since 2000.

The Role of Professional Valuers

Valuing jewellery, like the value of a car, is a sum of its parts plus the brand, popularity, rarity and condition. One would not stop valuing cars because the price of steel had dipped. So too is the case for the valuation of diamond jewellery even when the markets are in flux.

Jewellery valuation is a specialised profession that does not always get the credit it deserves. It requires years, often decades, of expertise, and valuers do not typically shout about their knowledge.

But in a world flooded with misinformation and sensational headlines, their insight is more relevant than ever.

So, where do you get your information?

To arrange a jewellery valuation call us on 01883 722736 or [email protected]

Unapologeticaly Iris – The Iris Apfel Collection Auction

Posted on February 19, 2025February 19, 2025 by Liz Bailey

Highly anticipated, Christie’s Sale of Iris Apfel’s collection took place as a timed auction from New York, running from 28th January until 13th February. The sale included 220 lots from the late ‘Matriarch of Maximialism’s’ personal collection across fashion, furnishings, textiles, accessories and of course, jewellery.

Known and celebrated for her bold and bright signature style, Apfel was a renowned interior designer, fashion icon, model, curator and collector. Her irreverent, eclectic and playful style was absolutely reflected in the incredible lots on offer.

Accessories

It seems fitting that the lot to ‘kick off’ this stylish sale was a selection of eighteen pairs of glasses. In bright hues, zebra prints and heart shapes, this striking mixed lot certainly set the tone for the rest of the sale. Estimated initially at $400-600, the bids were sitting at over ten times that amount a mere few days into the two-week timed sale, and one lucky bidder secured this lot for $15,120.

Another lot that was unsurprisingly popular was lot 48, ten pairs of eyewear. Only two days into the sale the bidding was at $3,500 against a modest $200-300 estimate, and bidding concluded at an incredible $16,380.

Another lot of Apfel’s accessories included a selection of evening bags. Including all the hallmarks of Apfel’s signature style to include embroidery, bold colours, feathers and embellishments, this popular lot sold for $10,080.

Furnishings

The daughter of an antique dealer and an expert on interiors (having decorated the White House for no less than nine Presidents!) bidders were offered a glimpse into Apfel’s extraordinary collection of interiors and decorative objects.

Animals were a huge feature in Apfel’s interiors collection, multiple paintings of Maltese dogs (a clear favourite), Black Forest bears, and even a giant carved ostrich were just a few of the animal lots on offer. The carved 1970s Italian ostrich stood 124cm high and had been featured in Apfel’s Architectural Digest issue of 2016, estimated at 6,000-8,000, this big bird sold for $16,380.

Vibrant prints, colours, and an eclectic mixture of items from Greek style all the way to the present day ensured the catalogue was a visual treat!

A personal favourite of mine was a pair of wonderful Italian armchairs. Modelled with a scallop shell back, dolphin armrests and raised on shell legs, these 20th century carved and silvered chairs exuded sheer opulence! Estimated at $2,000-3,000, these chairs reached $8,820. The back and seat in scallop-shell form, the arms modeled as dolphins raised on shell-form legs, the back legs on each example attached backwards. 40 in. (101.5 cm) high, overall.

Fashion

Hotly anticipated was Apfel’s selection of fashion and couture pieces. Taking up just under half of the sale, there were ninety-six lots from Iris’s collection, ranging from group lots of unattributed vintage clothing at the lower end of the offering, all the way to custom couture pieces Iris wore in printed publications. This wonderful mixture of high-low dressing was absolutely Apfel’s trademark and lent an accessibility to collectors of all levels.

Designer garments by Carolina Herrera, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Moschino, Christian Dior, Alice & Olivia, Valentino, Prada, Jean Paul Gautier, Iris Apfel x H&M and countless other designers were offered with estimates from $100-200 to $1,200-1,800.

Lot 51: A MULTICOLOR FEATHER COAT
LABELED DIOR HAUTE COUTURE, PARIS, 21ST CENTURY

Amongst the top sellers was this fabulous Dior Haute Couture feather coat that Apfel had been photographed in by James Mollison for the Collectors series, featured in a 2018 Issue of Christie’s Magazine. This piece instantly attracted bids and reached $9,000 very early on in the timed sale, finally settling at $11,970 at the conclusion of the sale.

A heavily beaded and embroidered coat by Stacey Bendet for Alice & Olivia in 2022 was also fought for by bidders and reached $6,048 against a $400-600 estimate.

Another garment by this designer was an eye-catching A-line skirt detailed with Iris’ own embroidered and sequinned portrait sold for $7,560.

Jewellery

Another layer of Apfel’s iconic style was of course her jewellery. This sale featured sixteen lots of jewellery, all beautifully bold and eye-catching!

Group lots of brightly coloured lucite bangles, costume jewellery acquired from travels to Eastern Europe, the Middle East, China and the Hindu Kush region, beaded necklaces, rhinestone suites, and Southwestern American jewels were all a part of this spectacular offering of stylish jewellery.

The top-selling lot for the jewellery was this wonderful selection of turquoise, lucite and resin costume jewellery. Featuring an Alexis Bittar bangle, Jianhui London necklaces and bracelet, Rara Avis bracelets, blue hardstone studded lucite cuffs and bangle among others, this beautiful collection sold for $9,450 against an estimate of $300-500.

Pieces from Apfel’s own line of costume jewellery Rara Avis, originally sold through the Home Shopping Network were also amongst the lots on offer. Her playful lucite bangles set with googly eyes were trademark Iris and one of the most popular designs from Rara Avis at the time. These typically retail on the secondary market between $300-400, however with the added provenance, this lot of fifteen bangles (six by Rara Avis) sold for $6,300.

To arrange a jewellery valuation, call us on 01883 722736 or email us on [email protected].

What makes Austrian emeralds so rare and unique?

Posted on February 14, 2025February 14, 2025 by Liz Bailey

A lot that stood out to me around the salerooms last week was this this pretty cluster ring. Sold at Woolley & Wallis and described as ‘An unusual emerald and diamond ring, late 19th century,’ this ring was set with a principal oval emerald cabochon and surrounded by cushion shaped diamonds.

Accompanied by a certificate from Gemmological Certification Services, the emerald’s origin was stated as Austrian, with indications of moderate clarity enhancement. The unusual factor, then, in this lot was the origin of the emerald! Usually at auction we can see Zambian (increasingly!) and the historically favoured Colombian emeralds. An emerald from an altogether different locale in Austria, was an unusual thing indeed!

The Austrian emerald deposit lies in the Habachtal Valley. Located in the Hohe Tauern National Park, and a favourite with hikers, this valley is known for its emerald deposits and rich mining history!

The first written reference to the Habachtal emeralds is in 1797, although in 1992, Roman jewels in the Treasure of Lyon-Vaise included emerald necklaces and earrings set with emeralds mined in the Habachtal Valley. These pieces are thought to have been buried for fear of Germanic raids and the coins allow its burial to be dated to after AD 258.

The first international appearance of Habachtal emeralds was in 1861 at the London World Industrial Exhibition. Mining operations by Samuel Goldschmidt began in the early 1860s, and he sold these crystals from his Viennese storefront. Following his death in the 1870s, the mines were ran by various English companies until around 1913 – purportedly selling the stones as ‘Indian emeralds’ “because the deposit was not known to most of the people in gem trade and would have sold for a much lower price.” (Laing Antiques).

The ring above dates to this later period of English owned mining in the Habachtal area and could well have been originally sold as an ‘Indian’ emerald. Identifying features for Habachtal emeralds are typically heavily included, with “highly-ordered graphite, and extremely water-rich melt inclusions.” (Rainer, 2020). Sold as Indian emeralds and typically assessed as lower quality owing to their multiple inclusions, examples of Habachtal emeralds are not frequently identified! Below is an example of a diamond and 2.10ct Austrian emerald ring currently retailing for €14,500.

Habachtal emeralds are still mined in the present day, although it much lower quantities than the late 19^th century. The yield is typically small scale and is reserved for collectors of specimens, much like the example below sold at Christies in 2023.

To arrange your own jewellery valuation, call us on 01883 722736 or email us on [email protected]

The Perfect Jewellery Gift for Valentine’s Day: Iconic Pieces They’ll Love

Posted on February 5, 2025March 20, 2025 by Helen Doyle

Valentine’s Day is celebrated annually on 14th February and has a surprisingly complex and layered history, blending ancient Roman traditions with Christian beliefs and medieval romance.

By the Victorian era, Valentine’s Day became a widely celebrated occasion, with flowers becoming common traditions. Today, Valentine’s Day is a global holiday expressing love and affection through various gestures and celebrations. There are also variations of the holiday including Galentine’s when one can celebrate friendships.

However you choose to celebrate, there is no getting away from the fact that it is fast approaching. With that in mind I am here to provide you with some expert guidance on how to choose the best items of jewellery this Valentine’s, for the one you love.

Tiffany & Co.

Arguably the most romantic of jewellers in the world, we couldn’t write about Valentine’s Day without mentioning Tiffany & Co., particularly a Tiffany & Co. engagement ring.

In 1887, Charles Lewis Tiffany, founder of Tiffany and Co., acquired an exceptional fancy yellow diamond from a mine in South Africa and it is known as The Tiffany diamond. It has been displayed in various settings throughout its history, with its most notable appearance as a pendant on a diamond necklace worn by Audrey Hepburn during a promotion of Breakfast at Tiffany’s in 1961.

The diamond, originally weighing 287.42 carats in its rough form, was sent to Paris where Tiffany’s chief gemmologist, Dr. George Frederick Kunz, cut the fancy yellow diamond into a beautiful, brilliant cushion-cut. It was here where Tiffany’s remarkable association with exquisite diamonds began.

Nowadays Tiffany & Co. is known to produce the most iconic engagement rings in the world, with the most popular style being The Tiffany Setting, distinguished by its 6 prongs/claws. This arrangement elevates the diamond well above the band allowing maximum light to enter the stone from all angles, therefore enhancing the diamond’s natural brilliance and sparkle and minimizing the amount of metal covering the stone. It is also held on a simple plain band ensuring that the diamond remains the centrepiece. Sales of the Tiffany engagement ring equate for 26% of their total sales. This remarkable success can be attributed to the iconic status of the brand, particularly the legendary Tiffany Setting introduced in 1886.

The price of a Tiffany Setting ring ranges anywhere from a few thousand up to six figure sums depending on the quality of the diamond.

The 1.65ct diamond single stone ring above has an insurance value of £75,000

Cartier Love bracelet

Nothing says love like a Cartier love bracelet. Created in 1969 by Italian jewellery designer Aldo Cipullo for Cartier, the bracelet was born as a unisex ‘modern handcuff’ with Cartier making the radical decision to leave the functional or decorative screws visible.

Its oval shape means it sits tight around the wearer’s wrist, and its physically screwed on to signify the permanence of true love, since two people are needed to secure the screws. The Love bracelet has become a symbol of love and commitment due to this design.

Today the bracelet is just as popular and it is rumoured that New York hospitals keep mini Love screwdrivers on the wards, in case they need to remove the bracelet in an emergency.

Its longevity and success is down to the design, according to Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s director of image, style and heritage. “For me, the Love bracelet is a success worldwide since it was created because of a combination of many different dimensions – first design, and second, symbolism. The design is linked to its meaning, because the screw, is the meaning of the object and the symbolic value is immediately visible through the very simple idea,” he explains. “The Love bracelet has become a permanent staple in modern style.”

Nowadays, the Cartier Love bracelet is seen on the wrists of many famous celebrities, including the Duke and Duchess of Sussex sporting matching Love bracelets on the cover of TIME magazine in 2020, while Meghan has been spotted wearing hers on numerous occasions over the years.

This year Cartier have released a brand-new Love Bracelet with a width of 4.8mm it the medium size with a slimmer and thicker versions available. This new version has an insurance value of £5,850.

Van Cleef and Aprels Alhambra

The Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra collection is seen as a symbol of enduring femininity, luck and love. It was in 1968 when the brand’s designers were captivated by the four-leaf clover motif and incorporating Art Deco influences, they created the iconic Alhambra pendant, with the initial design featuring a stylised quatrefoil shape set with mother-of-pearl.

It quickly gained popularity and over the years, the collection has expanded to encompass various interpretations of the Alhambra theme: bracelets, necklaces, earrings, rings and even watches, all adorned with gemstones and precious metals like mother-of-pearl, onyx, carnelian, turquoise, and diamonds.

De Beers Talisman

The De Beers Talisman collection is a line of fine jewellery that prominently features rough diamonds, highlighting their raw beauty by juxtaposing them with polished diamonds, creating a unique aesthetic that celebrates the natural, unrefined quality of rough stones, while still showcasing De Beers’ expertise in diamond cutting and setting.

The collection often utilises their “serti poinçon” technique to encapsulate the rough diamonds in the metal, giving them a distinct appearance.

The unisex collection is enjoyed by men and women.

Ruby

Rubies have been treasured throughout history for their beauty and symbolic meaning of passion, love, power, protection, and good luck. They feature prominently in royal crowns, ancient artifacts, and works of art. Fine rubies are gemstones prized for their vibrant red hue, intense brilliance, and enduring beauty.

They belong to the corundum mineral family, which also includes sapphires. Their mesmerizing red colour comes from trace amounts of chromium in their chemical structure. The most desirable rubies exhibit a vivid “pigeon’s blood” red – a rich, saturated hue with a hint of blue undertones. Other shades include purplish-red, orangish-red, and brownish-red, but the “pigeon’s blood” remains the rarest and most sought-after. It is the colour, clarity and origin which can contribute to a rubies value along with a lack of any lab treatment. Large fine natural examples with good colour can command very high prices.

Locations, like Myanmar (Burma), Madagascar, and Mozambique, are known for their exceptional quality.

No matter what gift you give or recieve this Valentine’s Day, ensure that you get it accurately valued for insurance purposes by calling us on 01883 722736 or emailing us on [email protected].

The year of the snake, or the year of Serpenti?

Posted on January 29, 2025March 20, 2025 by Liz Bailey

Bulgari’s Serpenti Watch Collection, its History and Value

Arguably one of Bulgari’s most iconic collections across both jewellery and watches, the Serpenti collection has been and continues to be a firm favourite, especially in the year of the snake! Seen adorning countless celebrities, from Elizabeth Taylor in the early days of the Serpenti watch, to Adele in the present day, who has been spotted wearing her yellow gold and diamond set Serpenti watch to basketball games, these timepieces are a wonderful blend between sculpture, design and watchmaking. With a new edition of Serpenti watches launched in January of this year, the Serpenti watches have had a hold over watch collectors for over 75 years.

The first Bulgari Serpenti collection was launched in 1948, created from the brand’s Tubogas technique patented in 1881– featuring gold or steel strips wrapped around a core. This simple yet effective design was the unassuming starting point for the breathtakingly detailed creations that were to follow.

It was in the 1960s that the Bulgari Serpenti watch gained its scales and cult status. Featuring individually applied enamel and gemstone hexagonal scales to each Serpenti watch and movements hidden within the mouth of each snake, Bulgari created wearable sculptures that were frequently seen gracing film stars and Vogue magazine covers. Although prevalent in mainstream media, fewer than 100 of these early Serpenti bracelet watches were created, and the variety in their designs, dials and movements is remarkable.

We would recommend an insurance valuation in the region of £150,000-175,000 each for the above pieces.

Bulgari did not just use neutral, earth tones for its 1960s Serpenti bracelet watches. Bright enamelled creations in pink, green, blue, yellow, red and cream were created in this creative and colourful decade.

More complex a creation still are the gem-set Serpenti watches. Incredibly rare and sought after by collectors, examples set with turquoise, tiger’s eye, lapis lazuli and even onyx scales were meticulously created. One such example is currently available to purchase on 1^st Dibs for £542,000. Set throughout with individual coral cabochon scales and accented with pear cut ruby eyes, this piece is adorned with a Jaeger Le-Coultre movement. This particular piece was exhibited at the Houston Museum of Natural Science as part of the Bulgari: 130 Years of Masterpieces, Houston, Texas, May 2 – October 5, 2014.

1970s and 80s Serpenti Watches

Having previously collaborated with esteemed watchmakers such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and later Movado in creating the tiny movements for these snake bracelet watches, Bulgari began to produce its own movements from around 1978 onwards, and this decade marked a return to the its Tubogas roots, with comparatively slimmed down designs of snakes that wrapped twice or three times around the wearer’s wrist.

The Modern Day Serpenti Watch

In 2009, Bulgari marked its 125^th anniversary by reintroducing the Serpenti in a new, more geometric form. This more contemporary look aligned with Bulgari’s Serpenti jewellery line and continues to feature in the brand’s most current collections.

The most recent iterations of the Serpenti watch were launched on 21^st January 2025. For the first time ever, Serpenti watches with in-house BVS100 automatic movements are available to purchase. Designed with an exhibition case back to highlight the movement, these watches will retail anywhere from $10,200 for a steel model, all the way to $52,000 for a rose gold Serpenti, and €139,000 for the diamond-set Serpenti Seduttori. These will be available to purchase in the UK from April.

Valuations of Bulgari Serpenti Watches

Bulgari’s current Serpenti collection of watches to purchase in the UK currently are retailing between £4,920 and £83,000 at the time of writing. As seen above, the sculptural snake creations from the 1960s hold the most value owing to their rarity, the sheer craftsmanship involved and of course their place in design history. With the ongoing innovation and sartorial appetite for these iconic watches continuing to flourish, we would expect subsequent values to increase, particularly for earlier models and limited references.

Make Mine a Marquise! The Fancy Cut Set to Shine in 2025

Posted on January 22, 2025January 23, 2025 by Liz Bailey

Whilst 2024 was undoubtedly the year of the oval engagement ring, 2025 looks to feature the marquise cut much more prominently!

According to the Rapaport Diamond Report Volume 47, no. 48 – marquise cut diamonds are benefitting from an “excellent market – the most expensive fancy shape – supported by shortages.” According to the list, these exclusive shapes can currently price in at up to 15% more than their shorter fancy cut counterparts – suggesting that these elongated fancy cuts are set for a good year ahead.

Celebrity influence naturally plays a role in the demand for fancy shapes. Selena Gomez’s engagement ring from Benny Blanco in December 2024 features a principal marquise cut diamond. Paying homage to her 2015 song “Good for You” in which she compares herself to a marquise cut diamond, this ring features a sizeable marquise cut stone accented beautifully with a round brilliant cut diamond band.

History of the Marquise Cut

The marquise shape is an elongated oval with pointed ends. This distinctive navette shape diamond dates to 18th century France and King Louis XV, who commissioned a stone fashioned in the shape of his lover Marquise de Pompadour’s lips. The marquise cut diamond was born!

Value Factors of Marquise Cut Diamonds

Universally with natural diamonds, of course the famous 4 Cs (colour, clarity, cut, carat weight) are the key determining factors for value with these stones. The better the colour grade either on the colourless or fancy colour scale, with minimal inclusions, excellent cut grade and maximum carat weight are all attributes of the most valuable stones.

Another incredibly important factor to consider particularly for elongated fancy shapes such as the marquise cut is the proportion, and more specifically, the length to width ratio! This ratio is deduced by dividing the length by the width – and much is due to personal preference however owing to the alignment of the facets, a slight deviation of the LWR or cut grade can result in undesirable optical effects such as the dreaded ‘bow tie’ (a dark shadow to the centre of the stone). This visually heavy optical effect of course not only minimises the brilliance of the stone but has a negative impact on the value.

Buyer Beware!

Above is an image of a 1ct marquise cut lab grown diamond, currently available to purchase online at only £365. As seen in the past year, the price of production for lab grown diamonds and therefore their subsequent retail prices are at an all-time low, with long term valuations set to look even lower and resale value almost negligible for synthetic diamonds.

To compare as closely as possible, 1ct natural marquise cut diamonds with identical colour, clarity and cut grades, fluorescence and similar length-width ratio to the above lab grown stone (D, VS1, Excellent, none, 1.9-2.3) are retailing currently between £3,500 and £8,290 on a reputable online retailers website.

This massive discrepancy in prices and of course continued value for natural stones is not to be taken lightly – we would recommend purchasing your natural diamonds from a reputable source, with notable laboratory certification, and of course, ensuring that in the long run you have adequate and continued cover through a thorough insurance valuation from our specialist team.

The Pearl Renaissance

Posted on January 13, 2025January 23, 2025 by Liz Bailey

According to Jewellery Net’s Pearl Report 2024-5, “The pearl industry is witnessing a renaissance of sorts, ushered in by shifting perceptions of the pearl among a more discerning clientele.” Eagerly awaited by jewellers, retailers and auctioneers for some time, this ‘renaissance’ certainly appears to be bolstering values and signalling a buoyancy in the top end of the market, in particular for fine cultured pearls that had previously been waning.

The pearl report points towards the ‘sustainable nature’ of pearls as a key factor in attracting a refreshed and renewed interest, as well as attention from a younger ‘Gen Z’ demographic. Indeed, it appears that in 2024, the secondary market at auction has reflected this, with continued high prices for natural pearls, and a revived interest in certain aspects of the cultured pearl market.

Natural pearls:

In terms of desirability, natural saltwater pearls have been and continue to be the most sought-after type of pearls at auction. Performing steadily and consistently well in years gone by, 2024 echoed a strength in the market for rare larger pearls, blemish free, with a pleasing body colour and where applicable evenly matched within a jewel. Other factors such as designer attribution, historical provenance and market scarcity also played a key role in achieved prices across 2024.

Christies witnessed the sale of some spectacular natural pearl jewellery this year, frequently fetching hammer prices in excess of six figures. One such example was a natural saltwater pearl and diamond single strand necklace. Featuring forty-three pearls (eleven of which were cultured) graduating in size from 7.25mm to 12.20mm, this piece achieved a final hammer price of $378,000 in their June New York Magnificent Jewels Auction.

Remarkably, in this same sale, a pair of slightly baroque natural saltwater pearl and diamond earrings measuring 14.8mm in diameter each achieved a hammer price of $277,200, demonstrating the demand for these relatively rare, large, well matched natural saltwater pearls in the international market.

Fine Victorian natural pearl jewellery performed incredibly well at auction this year, with some of the highest hammer prices achieved going to late 19^th century pieces. A spectacular enamel, pearl, diamond and gem-set piece by Marcus & Co dating to 1895 sold at Bonhams this June for a staggering £165,500. This piece was set with two natural pearls, to include a 13.5mm bouton pearl, and a later 13.25ct natural pearl drop together with over 15 carats of diamonds. This beautiful lot achieved the highest hammer price for pearl jewellery sold at Bonhams in 2024, and achieved a house record for jewellery by Marcus & Co.

A fabulous auction result for Gloucestershire saleroom Chorleys was achieved in the same month, with a Victorian natural saltwater pearl necklace and detachable pendant/brooch. Showcasing a principal natural pearl of 8.46ct, a sizeable natural pearl drop, and slightly graduated natural saltwater pearl beads measuring 5.2mm-6.9mm, this piece fetched a hammer price of £85,000.

Elsewhere, records were set this year with the largest ever discovered natural freshwater pearl from Scotland selling in August. This impressive round freshwater pearl measured 10.5-10.6mm in diameter and fetched a £75,000 hammer against an estimate of £40,000-60,000.

Cultured pearls

Previously the victim of a downturn in value, hammer prices for cultured pearls in 2024 were incredibly promising. With some fantastic prices achieved for the finest cultured pearls on offer, this market trend offered a glimpse into a hopefully much more buoyant future for cultured pearls – although it is worth noting that low prices and unsolds remained the general pattern for smaller, worse quality and unattributed cultured pearl jewellery.

Top hammer prices this year were reserved for large, well-matched, symmetrical round cultured pearls, with a great lustre and blemish-free surface. One such example was a necklace by the ‘founder’ of cultured pearls’ eponymous company Mikimoto. Featuring one long strand of 140 round cultured pearls measuring at least 12mm in diameter each and terminating with a pavé set diamond clasp, this piece reached $44,800 at Bonhams in September 2024. For the sake of comparison, a Mikimoto strand of 8mm pearls, nearly twice the length with similar pavé set diamond clasps sold for £5,500 in 2021.

Cultured pearls set in designer jewellery also achieved great hammer prices at auction. Featuring much smaller cultured pearls at only 3.5-4mm each, an exquisitely made gem-set sautoir by Van Cleef & Arpels dating to 1975 caught the attention of bidders at Bonhams in June of this year, and subsequently sold for £38,400 inclusive of buyer’s premium.

Similarly, a more contemporary design in the form of cuff bangle by Bulgari set with sixteen cultured pearls of around 7.5-8mm in diameter together with 7-8 carats of pavé set diamonds sold at Christies Paris in the same month for €25,200. A similar example of a Bulgari Parentesi bangle set with twelve cultured pearls and approximately 7 carats of diamonds remained unsold with an estimate of £6,000-8,000 at an auction in November 2022.

These examples show an extremely promising upwards turn for fine cultured pearl jewellery in 2024, which – with any luck, will stabilise if not grow well into 2025.

Conch and Melo pearls

Conch and Melo pearls are another category of natural pearls to retain a high desirability and value, weathering the ‘storm’ experienced by their cultured counterparts. Owing to their rarity, gorgeous hue, and unique ‘flamed’ lustre, these non-nacreous pearls have long been incredibly valuable. Auction results of 2024 echoed this continued buoyancy in value, with a fine 19mm melo pearl and sapphire ring by Hemmerle selling at Bonhams in June for £52,100 inclusive of premium.

An impressive suite of jewellery comprising no less than seven conch pearls set within a pair of drop earrings and a cocktail ring was accompanied by two GIA reports and sold at Christies Hong Kong for HK$1,008,000 in May.

Whether set in jewellery or offered as a loose gemstone, conch and melo pearls remain highly sought-after, with a 24.54ct melo pearl selling in 2022 for $31,875, and a 10.01ct conch pearl selling in the previous year for $11,475 at Bonhams.

Keeping in mind the strength of prices for both natural and cultured pearl jewellery across the salerooms in 2024, it is vital to ensure that your insurance valuations offer adequate cover and that your jewellery is documented by a specialist.

For further information on our insurance valuations from our nationwide team of specialists, contact us via [email protected].

Inside the Record-Breaking Sale of the Anglesey Necklace

Posted on November 15, 2024November 22, 2024 by Liz Bailey

Sotheby’s Royal & Noble Jewels Sale took place in Geneva on Wednesday 13^th November. This historic sale presented a spectacular selection of historic fine jewellery, with provenance relating to several royal and noble families, including Tsar Ferdinand of Bulgaria and his family, Countess Mona Bismarcak, King Umberto II of Italy, the Ducal House of Bavaria and the Princely Thurn und Taxis family. Featuring 174 lots, this auction featured a stunning selection of tiaras, necklaces, rings, suites, cufflinks, tie pins, cigarette cases, seals, pocket watches and many more jewels with illustrious provenance.

The Anglesey Necklace

Designed as a pair of old cushion-shaped diamond tassels connected by three rows of collet-set old cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds, length approximately 670mm, fitted case.

Undoubtedly the most anticipated lot of the sale was the Anglesey Necklace. This highly important and historic jewel is an incredibly rare survivor of the Georgian court, set with a breathtaking 300 carats of diamonds and crafted with hugely innovative techniques for the time. An outstanding jewel to be in private hands, this piece has been known as the Anglesey Necklace, owned by the Paget family for centuries, thence a private collector, and offered for auction as the centrepiece to this historical sale. Estimated at 1,600,000 – 2,200,000 CHF (£1.4 to 1.9 million), this significant Georgian necklace finally sold at 3,550,000 CHF (£3,154,246.00).

Formerly in the collection of the Marquess of Anglesey, the Anglesey Necklace has featured in two important jewellery exhibitions of the 20^th century, first in 1959 as part of The Ageless Diamond Loan exhibition in London, sitting alongside many famous Royal and aristocratic diamond jewels including the Williamson Pink Diamond and the brooch set with the Cullinan III and IV diamonds belonging to Queen Elizabeth II. Twenty years later in 1979, the necklace featured in the American Museum of Natural History’s Bicentennial Exhibition.

A Marie Antoinette Connection? The lore of the Anglesey Necklace

The lore surrounding this jewel carried a huge significance and of course an impact on the subsequent value. Although there is no formal or documented evidence of a connection between the Anglesey necklace and the jewel that sparked the French Revolution, there are of course compelling factors that could plausibly link the two.

The sheer grandeur and scale of this piece narrows down the few noble ladies who could have owned this jewel. Set with nearly 300 carats of rare, Golconda diamonds (the South African mines were not discovered until 1867) and encased within unconventional, innovative and cutting-edge open back settings to allow the full radiance of these valuable stones.

There are no documents detailing this piece in the collection of the Paget family until the later part of the 19^th century. From its creation in the late 18th century, this is a monumental jewel to not be featured in inventories and documents of the time. As Sotheby’s point out,

“it is unclear exactly how the Paget family came in possession of this diamond jewel, a link to the first Marquess seems plausible given its date.”

In 1785, a diamond necklace created for Marie Antoinette was stolen in Paris. Records show that six months later, a London jeweller William Gray purchased 300 diamonds from the Marie Antoinette necklace totalling 600 stones. Stylistically, the tassels on the Anglesey necklace and the sketches of Marie Antoinettes necklaces do appear incredibly similar, which adds to this compelling tale.

More recently, in American-born British conservative politician and society figure, Sir Henry “Chips” Channon’s diary published in 2022, there is reference to this seeming connection. He mentions a part of Queen Marie Antoinette’s infamous necklace,

“at least two ropes of it, the rest, according to history, was broken up before the French Revolution but I believe the Anglesey tassels, which Marjorie sometimes wears, are a part of it.”

Sir Cecil Beaton photographed the Anglesey Necklace, as it was then known, being worn as a négligé by the glamorous and sophisticated Marjorie Paget, Marchioness of Anglesey, during George VI’s coronation 1937. The necklace was also worn at Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953.

Irrespective of the alleged connection to the French Revolution, the Anglesey Necklace is a rare survivor of an incredibly opulent Georgian Court. Designed to be worn in many ways, knotted at the neck, worn as a négligé, draped over the back, or even as a belt, this superb diamond necklace is without a doubt “one of the most outstanding Georgian jewels” (Andres White Correal – Head of Royal and Noble Jewels, Chairman, Sotheby’s Jewellery), and a historic result at auction for jewellery of the period.

To find out more about our jewellery valuation service by calling us on 01883 722736 or emailing [email protected]