The ultimate guide to buying handbags

What to buy second-hand, spotting fakes and caring for your handbags so they retain their value.

A symbol of luxury, designer handbags are often crafted with meticulous attention to detail. Brands like Hermès, for example, employ skilled artisans to hand-stitch their bags using the finest materials. This commitment to quality ensures that these bags are not just fashion accessories, but timeless investments. Other luxury brands, such as Chanel and Louis Vuitton, share this dedication to craftsmanship and durability.

Certain designer handbags, especially limited editions or classic models can appreciate significantly over time, making them valuable assets.

The second-hand market is thriving with popular brands like Chanel, Hermès, and Louis Vuitton with some achieving more than their retail value due to high demand.

The second-hand handbag market is projected to grow at a CAGR of 6.10% from 2023 to 2033. This indicates a strong and steady growth trajectory for the industry.

As consumer preferences continue to shift towards sustainable and affordable luxury, the second-hand handbag market is poised to further expand in the coming years.

Demand for handbags on the resale market has never been higher, and this once small industry is booming. In fact, investing in a handbag is a smart way to spend your money.

Some brands and models can make higher prices at auction than their current retail value.

See below Hermès Birkin selling at auction for £16,500.

A Rouge VIF Ostrich Leather Birkin 30 Sold: £16,500 GBP December 1 -10 2021 London, United Kingdom

A Rouge VIF Ostrich Leather Birkin 30

Sold: £16,500 GBP

December 1 -10 2021
London, United Kingdom

Purchasing pre-owned designer handbags offers multiple benefits. Firstly, it promotes sustainability by reducing waste in the fashion industry. Secondly, it allows buyers to discover unique vintage or limited-edition models that are no longer in production. Thirdly, these handbags often boast high-quality materials and craftsmanship, ensuring durability and style. Finally, buying second-hand provides access to a wider range of trends and styles that may not be available in retail stores.

Here are some examples to show how the market has changed over time.

See below increase in a Kelly handbag in 2007 selling for £400 and in 2023 selling for £7650.

Hermés, A Kelly Bag 1950 - 1960 Est: £300 GBP - £500 GBP Sold: £400 GBP Christie’s November 21, 2007 London, United Kingdom

Hermès, A Kelly Bag 1950 – 1960

Est: £300 GBP – £500 GBP
Sold: £400 GBP

Christie’s
November 21, 2007
London, United Kingdom

See below Louis Vuitton and Chanel classic from a sale in Christies 2006 as a group lot and selling for only £480.

Hermès: a Bleu Indigo Clemence Leather Retourne Kelly 32

Sold: £7,650 GBP

March 9, 2023
London, United Kingdom

A ‘Speedy’ Bag by Louis Vuitton & a handbag by Chanel Est: £300 GBP - £500 GBP Sold: £480 GBP September 28, 2006 London, United Kingdom

A ‘Speedy’ Bag by Louis Vuitton & a handbag by Chanel

Est: £300 GBP – £500 GBP
Sold: £480 GBP

September 28, 2006
London, United Kingdom

So which brands sell well on the secondary market?

Hermès

Hermès has a rich history dating back to the 19th century and has produced iconic handbags that have become symbols of elegance and sophistication. Originally founded as a harness workshop, Hermès expanded into leather goods and accessories, eventually introducing its first handbag, the “Haut à Courroies,” designed for carrying riding gear. Nowadays it houses some of the most expensive handbgas ever sold with iconic designs like the Kelly and Birkin, named after Grace Kelly and Jane Birkin respectively, have become highly sought-after by collectors and fashion enthusiasts. Each Hermès handbag is meticulously handcrafted using high-quality materials, ensuring timeless style and durability.

The Hermès Kelly and Birkin are among the most desired handbags in the world, making them excellent investments and highly collectible items. Due to the meticulous craftsmanship and use of rare materials and leathers, Hermès produces a limited number of bags each year. This scarcity, combined with the lengthy waitlists, often drives consumers to the resale market where they can find a wider selection and immediate availability. Despite the premium prices on the resale market, the demand for these iconic bags remains strong.

Look below at examples of the same bag sold in 2005 for £5,760 and 2022 for £11,000.

A black Crocodile Hermés Kelly Bag Est: £2,000 GBP - £4,000 GBP Sold: £5,760 GBP Christie’s September 29 2005 London, United Kingdom

A black Crocodile Hermès Kelly Bag

Est: £2,000 GBP – £4,000 GBP
Sold: £5,760 GBP

Christie’s
September 29 2005
London, United Kingdom

Hermés: a Black shiny Porosus Crocodile Selllier Kelly 32 1984 Est: £7,000 GBP - £10,000 GBP Sold: £11,000 GBP Bonhams October 4 2022 London, United Kingdom

Hermès: a Black shiny Porosus Crocodile Selllier Kelly 32 1984

Est: £7,000 GBP – £10,000 GBP
Sold: £11,000 GBP

Bonhams
October 4 2022
London, United Kingdom

Kelly and Birkin handbag

The Kelly Bag

The Kelly Bag

The Birkin Bag

The Birkin Bag

It’s not just the secondary market where the value of these handbags increases. Hermes like many other brands increase their retail prices at least once a year and when we look at this over their lifespan, we can start to see why they make such good investments. In the 1950s a standard Kelly bag could have been purchased for $900, by the 60s the same bag cost $1,300, the 70s $2,400, the 80s $4,000, the 90s $5,100 and at the turn of the century it cost $7,400. Today, that exact bag has increased in value to $10,000 – $15,000. The same increase is seen with Birkin bags with a standard Birkin setting customers back $2,000 in 1980, $2,750 in 1990, $4,000 at the turn of the century, and today they sell for up to $20,000!

Hermes Birkin Price Increase US

There are some other Hermès handbags which make great investments.

Hermès Special Order

Hermes Special Order

Exotic skins

This Niloticus Crocodile handbag has achieved over £400,000 at auction.

Niloticus Crocodile handbag

See below price example of Hermès handbag at auction.

A rare tri colour Hermés Himalaya, 1997 Sold £5,500 June 2022

A rare tri colour Hermès Himalaya, 1997

Sold £5,500

June 2022

A vache naturelle, Rouge H Calf Box, Violet Veau Doble Sold £1,624 June 2009

A vache naturelle, Rouge H Calf Box, Violet Veau Doble

Sold £1,624

June 2009

Chanel

In the 1920s, Chanel introduced their first handbag designs, often made from jersey and in 1929 they launched their first rectangular-shaped bag. By 1955, this rectangular bag featured quilted leather, a chain-strap shoulder bag, a Mademoiselle lock, and a red lining and it started to look like the iconic design we know today. In 2005, Karl Lagerfeld reissued the 2.55 bag, solidifying its status as a timeless classic. In the 1980s, Lagerfeld further expanded Chanel’s handbag offerings with the introduction of the Classic Flap Bag. Chanel handbags continue to be highly sought-after luxury item. The brand’s commitment to quality and innovation ensures that each handbag is a work of art, making them timeless icons in the world of fashion.

The Chanel 2.55 and Classic Flap bags have experienced significant price increases over the years, reflecting their status as highly sought-after luxury items. Since 2016, Chanel has implemented annual price hikes, leading to a more than doubling of prices for certain models. The Medium Chanel Classic Flap, for instance, has seen its price soar from $4,900 to $10,800.

Chanel Classic Medium Flap Bag Price 2012 - 2024

See below example of the 2.55

See below example of the Chanel Boy Bag

Chanel Boy Bag

Below is an example of a Chanel Classic exceeding its sale estimate.

Chanel – a double flap classic handbag, quilted black lambskin with yellow tone hardware

Est: £1,200 GBP – £1,800 GBP

Sold: £5,000 GBP

Dawsons Auctioneers

September 22, 2022

Here is an example of a Chanel handbag selling at auction in 2003 for only $200.

Classic Chanel Black Handbag Black Quilted Jersey Est: $300 USD - £400 USD Sold: £200 USD Doyle New York April 09 2023 New York, NY, US

Classic Chanel Black Handbag Black Quilted Jersey

Est: $300 USD – £400 USD
Sold: £200 USD

Doyle New York
April 09 2023
New York, NY, US

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton, a pioneer in luxury travel goods, has a rich history intertwined with its iconic handbags. Founded in 1854 by Louis Vuitton, the brand initially gained recognition for its innovative flat-topped trunks. Later, Georges Vuitton, Louis Vuitton’s son, introduced the iconic LV monogram canvas, which became a symbol of luxury and status.

In the early 20th century, Louis Vuitton expanded its offerings beyond luggage to include handbags. The Keepall, Speedy, and Alma bags became early classics, each with its unique design and purpose. As the brand continued to evolve, it expanded its product range to include a wider variety of handbags, collaborating with renowned designers to create limited-edition pieces.

Today, Louis Vuitton handbags are renowned for their exceptional craftsmanship, timeless designs, and high-quality materials. The LV monogram canvas remains a signature element of many Louis Vuitton handbags, symbolizing the brand’s heritage and luxury. Louis Vuitton’s ability to blend tradition with innovation has ensured its enduring popularity, making its handbags coveted possessions for fashion enthusiasts worldwide.

Their classic designs are timeless, for example the Louis Vuitton Speedy, first released in the 1930s, is a great handbag that can be purchased for under £1,000 on the resale market.

See below examples of an LV going through auction.

Louis Vuitton Speedy 25 Handbag Est: £500 USD - £600 USD Sold: £950 USD Vogt Galleries Texas February 27, 2021 San Antonio, TX, US

Louis Vuitton Speedy 25 Handbag

Est: £500 USD – £600 USD
Sold: £950 USD

Vogt Galleries Texas
February 27, 2021
San Antonio, TX, US

A Louis Vuitton Black Mini Hand Bag Est: £2,000 USD - £2,500 USD Sold: £2,000 USD Empire Auction House July 07, 2020 Flushing, NY, US

A Louis Vuitton Black Mini Hand Bag

Est: £2,000 USD – £2,500 USD
Sold: £2,000 USD

Empire Auction House
July 07, 2020
Flushing, NY, US

See below limited-edition Louis Vuitton Speedy selling for $2,500 at auction.

Louis Vuitton ‘Game On Speedy Bandouliere 30’ Bag

Louis Vuitton ‘Game On Speedy
Bandouliere 30’ Bag

Est: £3,000 USD – £5,000 USD
Sold: £2,500 USD

Austin Auction Gallery
December 09, 2022
Austin, TX, US

See below limited-edition selling at auction

Louis Vuitton ‘Jeff Koons Master’s Rubens Speedy’ Est: £4,000 USD - £6,000 USD Sold: £3,000 USD Austin Auction Gallery December 09, 2022 Austin, TX, US

Louis Vuitton ‘Jeff Koons Master’s Rubens Speedy’

Est: £4,000 USD – £6,000 USD
Sold: £3,000 USD

Austin Auction Gallery
December 09, 2022
Austin, TX, US

Louis Vuitton FW 2022 LV Paint Can (Virgil Abloh) Est: £0 USD - £0 USD Sold: £3,000 USD GWS Auctions October 08, 2022 Agoura Hills, CA, US

Louis Vuitton FW 2022 LV Paint Can (Virgil Abloh)

Est: £0 USD – £0 USD
Sold: £3,000 USD

GWS Auctions
October 08, 2022
Agoura Hills, CA, US

The very best investment pieces by LV are the limited-edition versions.

Here are the top five most popular designer handbags of 2024

  1. Chanel 2.55 Flap Bag: A timeless classic, this iconic bag continues to be a top choice for many.
  2. Hermès Birkin: Renowned for its exclusivity and craftsmanship, the Birkin remains a coveted luxury item.
  3. Louis Vuitton Speedy: A versatile and stylish bag, the Speedy is a popular choice for everyday use.
  4. Dior Lady Dior: A sophisticated and elegant bag that has been a staple in the fashion world for years.
  5. Prada Re-Edition 2000 Nylon Bag: This retro-inspired bag has experienced a resurgence in popularity, thanks to its functional design and playful aesthetic.

Caring correctly for your handbag can help retain its value and can significantly extend the life of your designer handbag.

To maintain the pristine condition of your designer handbag, regular cleaning is essential. For everyday dirt and grime, gently wipe the surface with a soft, dry cloth.

Proper storage is also essential. Always store your bag in its original dust bag to protect it from dust, moisture, and light. Stuff the bag with acid-free tissue paper or a soft cloth to maintain its shape. Avoid exposing your bag to extreme conditions such as direct sunlight, heat and humidity. To prevent excessive wear and tear, rotate your bags in your collection.

Avoid overloading your bag, as this can strain the handles and stitching. Protect your bag from water damage by avoiding exposure to rain or moisture. If it does get wet, dry it immediately with a soft cloth. Don’t store makeup or pens in your handbag as these can mark the inside. Try to limit exposure to perfumes, lotions, and other chemicals that can damage the materials.

Spotting A Fake Handbag

If you decide to purchase a handbag on the secondary market its important to make sure its genuine. Remember a genuine designer handbag will be made of the very best quality fabrics and finished to a very high standard. They will have to pass a very strict quality control test before even being allowed to be sold, so if you have a bag that doesn’t ooze quality, it’s time to investigate a little further.

Here’s some tips for spotting those pesky fakes.

Construction and fabric

Fake handbags are often poorly constructed which can result in the shape being compromised. This can result in the overall shape being different to the real thing as well as puckering of corners and sections not sitting flat or quite as they should.

The fakers will often focus heavily on the exterior of a handbag and usually skimp on internal features such as lining, therefore it’s good to really assess the inside and check if the fabric lies flat without visible lumps and bumps, it certainly should in a genuine handbag.

Take note of the fabrics pattern and how it flows through the handbag. They should match at seams and through pockets and flaps as if there were no join at all and it was just a continuation of the fabrics design. This is a simple thing that can be quickly assessed and is something the fakers often fail to achieve.

Knowing the defining features of some commonly used fabrics can be a great tool at spotting a fake. The fakers often make silly mistakes when replicating details such as painting on what should be textured or making it larger or smaller than it should be.

Here’s a list of popular fabrics and their defining characteristics.

Louis Vuitton Canvas

The canvas used by Louis Vuitton is very hard wearing and robust and comes in a Monogram or Damier pattern, there are multiple variations of this in different colours and finishes. The material is also very slightly textured and can have a purple undertone.

Louis Vuitton Canvas
Louis Vuitton Canvas

Louis Vuitton Epi Leather

Epi Leather used by Louis Vuitton is a very hard-wearing and textured fabric with a matt finish which is very popular. Fakers often paint on the textured look or sometimes it’s much more over emphasised than it should be.

Louis Vuitton Epi Leather
Louis Vuitton Epi Leather

Louis Vuitton Vachetta

Louis Vuitton use Vachetta which is a light beige, untreated Italian leather often used on the trim and handles. Due to being untreated it can age and go darker over time a process called Patina. This development of the leather is individual to each bag and no two will age in the same way. An old used LV with its trim or handles in perfect condition could be a sign that bag is fake.

Chanel Lambskin

Lambskin leather is very popular for Chanel and should feel soft to the touch and have a visibly smooth appearance. It is of superior quality and easy to distinguish from the feel and appearance which isn’t often achieved by the counterfeiters. If you are inspecting a lambskin leather bag, ensure it feels extremely soft to the touch.

Chanel Caviar Leather

Caviar leather is made from pebbled calf leather and is popular in Chanel handbags. It has a bubbly appearance and is textured. Its durable and less likely to scratch and mark than lambskin. When you run your hands over genuine caviar leather you should feel raised dimple. This is often over embellished by the fakers.

Exotic skins

Exotic Skins should be purchased with the CITES which is a passport for the skin. There are certain characteristics that differentiate alligator and crocodile from ostrich and python. Faked exotic leathers are often made of embossed leather.

Stitching

Most designer handbags are expertly sewn by machine except for the Hermès Kelly and Birkin that are sewn by hand. In all cases the stitching should be finished to an exceptionally high level inside and out with a high number of stitches used to maintain the shape and quality of a bag. A low number of stitches or stitching that is coming undone could be a sign of a fake.

There should be no signs of glue or loose threads and the presence of these should make you suspicious.

The number of stitches can be very important. The quilted fabric on a Chanel should feature between 8 to 11 stitches per side of each panel. The fakers often use a lower number of stitches to create the same look, so counting these can help spot a fake.

An example of glue showing on a fake chanel bag
An example of glue showing on a fake Chanel bag
A poor finish on a fake gucci bag
A poor finish on a fake Gucci bag

A vintage Chanel with a chain should have one metal link without the leather threaded through. A modern version will feature one link with the leather folded back on itself and stitched through. This is a feature often missed by the fakers so check the chains, its easy and super quick to do.

A genuine vintage Chanel chain
A genuine vintage Chanel chain
Quilted fabric on a genuine chanel bag
Quilted fabric on a genuine Chanel bag

Serial Number

Serial numbers can tell you a great deal about a handbag and most designers use them except for some vintage models.

It can tell you the age and the location where the bag was made. Use this information to your advantage, If you are buying a pre-owned designer handbag and the seller says they purchased it in Paris in 2008, check that the number corresponds to this information.

Below is a list of where you can find the serial numbers for each designer

Chanel
The serial number can be found inside the main compartment to the bottom left. In the form of a sticker, the code is very securely attached, and these rarely come off.

Louis Vuitton
The code is embossed on a tag or on the inside of a pocket. They can be a little tricky to find. Louis Vuitton do not come with an authenticity card. Some vintage models don’t have a code.

Gucci
The serial code is embossed under the Gucci label inside of the bag.

Hermès
Hermès bags don’t have a serial number but they do have a letter to identify the date they were manufactured. This letter is usually embossed into the leather.

A fake Chanel Serial Number
A fake Chanel Serial Number
A genuine Louis Vuitton serial number
A genuine Louis Vuitton serial number
A genuine Chanel serial number
A genuine Chanel serial number
Another genuine Louis Vuitton serial number
Another genuine Louis Vuitton serial number

The lack of a serial number in a modern handbag should raise an alarm. When checking serial numbers yourself, check they follow the format listed in the table below.

Louis Vuitton 2007 – 2021
Two letters followed by four numbers. The first two letters represent the factory location. The first and third numbers represent the week of the year, and the second and forth numbers represent the year.

Louis Vuitton 1990 – 2006
Two letters followed by four numbers. The first two letters represent the factory location. The first and third numbers represent the month and the second and forth numbers represent the year.

Louis Vuitton 1980 – 1990
Two letters followed by three or four digits. The letters represent the factory location, and the first two numbers represent the year, and the 3rd number represents the month.

Chanel
1984 – 1986
Serial number has six digits.

Chanel
1986 – 2004
Serial number has seven digits.

Chanel
2005 onwards
Serial number has eight digits


Packaging & Authenticity Cards

Not all authenticity cards are authentic!

A common characteristic seen in a fake Chanel authenticity card is an iridescent or rainbow effect. Chanel do not issue cards with this feature and Louis Vuitton and Hermès do not come with authenticity cards at all.

The packaging is another place where the fakers tend to focus less attention. Packaging should have the same luxurious high-quality finish as the original handbag. Check the logo is central, the handles of a bag should not come wrapped in plastic. Is the dust cover the correct colour? It should be mustard yellow for LV and white or black for Chanel.

Fake chanel tags
Fake chanel tags
A genuine Prada authenticity card
A genuine Prada authenticity card

The Hardware & Logos

The hardware should be excellent quality and smooth without rough edges. Clasps should work well and be good quality with no sharp edges.

Here are some classic characteristics you should see in real hardware.

Chanel

The brand stamp should be in the correct style of font and quality of the stamp should be good. The fakers use a thinner font.

Chanel

Inspect the CC lock closely it can feature either a raised or flat finish. The right C should overlap the left C at the top and the left C overlap the right C at the bottom. Replica locks generally feature minor mistakes such as the shape of the Cs, the placement of additional metal above the lock, and even the style of the interlocking Cs.

Chanel

The lock stem itself is another feature worth checking. Authentic lock stems are made from 24K gold plate and even when used for a lengthy period will still maintain its condition. Replicas, however, are generally plated with gold which will peel off after use. When the lock is twisted open it should feel springy.

Chanel

The real giveaway is the stamping mark on the back plate of the clasp. If you open the bag and look at the back of the turnstile lock you will see the back plate. Chanel attaches this using flat screws only alongside a clear font with even spacing. Replicas may use different type of screws and various other styles of lettering and font on the back plate.

Louis Vuitton

The quality of the padlock should be excellent with the engraving clear and crisp. One notable detail is the use of the perfectly round O in Vuitton, and the L has a short tail with the top of the T’s almost touching.

Louis Vuitton

Padlocks and Keys are made of brass or plated and are numbered, with the same number on the key. Look out for some numbers are used more commonly than others, such as 448.

Louis Vuitton

The lock and keys are normally numbered. Those beginning with 3 (3XX) were made before 2009 and those beginning with a 4 (4XX) were made after. Be aware that they have begun making padlocks with 3 again now so this should just be a guide. When dating a LV best to rely on the serial number.

Louis Vuitton

The lock should read: Louis Vuitton – Made in France or Paris. A padlock saying Made in Paris is probably fake as ‘made in’ always is followed by a country not a city. It is predominately vintage handbags that say Made in France as more recently they started making bags in different countries, so they dropped this.

Genuine Louis Vuitton padlocks
Genuine Louis Vuitton padlocks

This guide should help you if you are thinking about purchasing a new or preowned designer handbag. However, it is also extremely important to have an up-to-date valuation for luxury items. This will ensure that your bag is adequately covered in case of theft, loss, or damage. As designer handbags go up in value over time, a recent valuation helps determine the appropriate level of insurance coverage. It can protect your investment and give you peace of mind knowing your luxury item is adequately insured.

Designer Beach Bags 2024

Beach Bag Ready!!

There’s nothing like a stylish, thoughtfully crafted beach bag to complete your resort wear ensemble and ensure all your personal essentials are within reach, and with the Great British Summer upon us we thought there was no better time to review this season’s most fabulous beach bags with a couple of rainy-day options thrown in, because, well, you know!

This year, the most sought-after brands have you covered, with Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Chanel offering this season’s most desirable beach bags and accessories with even a designer chocolate sauce for your ice cream.

Aside from the fact that a designer handbag can make a great investment, there are numerous factors to consider beyond your bag’s appearance when shopping for your perfect match. It makes it easier that most of the choices nowadays are as functional as they are chic. This year there are some beautiful vibrant options available, and it seems bigger is better.

Here’s our top designer beach bags, to suit any of your form and functional needs. Many of these are sure to become year-round accessories and the best part is they are all available to buy now, no wait list, even with Hermès!! So, let’s dive straight in!

Hermès

Hermès offer a fabulous range of beach bags and accessories and you can guarantee you will be the chicest person on the beach. Not only this but, a Hermès handbag always makes a great investment, with retail prices going up every year.

This season’s hottest selection comprises of:

Hermès From My Window.

Designed by Nigel Peake the collection is bold, colourful, and graphical which is a signature style of the artist with multiple perspectives being represented, with one or more windows opening out onto the world.

They are from cotton, canvas and wood, they are the perfect accessory for this summer, and they are also available to purchase directly from the website, with no wait list!

This example is retailing for £1,850.

Another great example by Hermès is the ‘Escale a a Plage’ beach bag, designed by Matthieu Cosses, in canvas and currently retails for £1,850, a bargain when compared to the price of a Birkin and Kelly.

Hermès not only have a wonderful collection of handbags but also beach towels with this bold and colourful example in Summer Games print, retailing for £600.

Christian Dior

Christian Dior produce some classic, timeless designs which always prove exceptionally popular, and like Hermès, their retail prices also increase in value every year, making them ever so popular on the open market.

The hat basket bag is made in Italy and stands out with its elegant silhouette combining functionality and refinement. It is hand-woven using artisanal techniques in natural wicker. The style features top handles and a blue Dior Oblique jacquard interior drawstring pouch. The Christian Dior Paris signature adorns the front. The spacious bag is completed by an adjustable and removable embroidered shoulder strap that allows it to be carried by hand, worn over the shoulder or crossbody. With the Christian Dior Paris signature on the front, it retails for £4,100.

Gucci

This year Gucci has taken its inspiration from the summer spirit and beach clubs on the Italian coast. The House’s straw accessories shed new light on the traditional material in vibrant colours and iconic motifs.

From the Lido Collection, this tote bag features brown leather straps across a natural base. The name of the House appears as a straw Gucci patch in keeping with the warm weather feel and retails for £2,030.

Chanel

Chanel never disappoints when it comes to handbags and their beach bags are no exception. This large cotton crochet & gold-tone metal tote in beige, pink & light green retails for £8,170.

Beach sets do very well on the open market, with this great set selling for just under £1,800 at auction in 2022.

Prada

Prada have produced some beautiful neutral tones this summer, this example of a medium wicker and linen blend tote bag retails for £1,750.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton’s latest spring-summer collection is landing in boutiques and it’s the perfect opportunity to refresh your accessory lineup. Whether you’re planning a getaway to the sun or embracing a city staycation, they’ve curated the hottest LV bags for your closet. From timeless hobo styles to sleek crossbody designs, these trendy companions promise to elevate your adventures in style.

Fun summer items such as a surf style Pochette Voyage Pouch retails for £850 and a Mini Golf Bag that can be yours for £2,490.

Speedy P9 Bandoulière

The Speedy P9 Bandoulière by Pharrell Williams is undeniably one of the hottest bags of the moment. Originally unveiled during Pharrell’s Men’s Spring-Summer 2024 collection, the Speedy P9 Bandoulière swiftly captured attention with its luxe appeal. Despite its origin in the menswear collection, this bag has become a coveted item for both men and women alike. However, getting your hands on one may prove to be quite the challenge and as such some are being listed on the resell market for three times the retail price of £6,850.

And finally, Louis Vuitton have just released their very own chocolate spread!! Its only available in two locations, a pop-up boutique in Singapore and their Paris store. With these limited supplies the secondary market for this designer chocolate spread has gone crazy with some examples selling for up to £500.

So, whether you are indulging in some chocolate spread and ice cream this summer, or a new beach bag, remember that having an up-to-date insurance document for your luxury belongings is extremely important. Doerr Dallas Valuations can provide you with an an insurance valuation, so you can relax and enjoy the beach, knowing that if the worst should happen, you’re properly insured, even if it’s your precious chocolate spread!!!

 

Read more articles by Helen Doyle

The Rebirth of the Icons

There are many designer handbags which have stood the test of time and remain iconic, bags like the Chanel Classic and the Hermès Birkin. But this year has seen a rise in handbag icons being sourced from the archives, from the Gucci Horsebit design through to Prada’s re-issue nylon collection and unsurprisingly that’s driving up interest in the vintage originals.

We already know that over the last few years there has been a substantial rise in demand for preowned designer handbags. Brands such as Hermès, Chanel and Louis Vuitton make exceptional prices on the resale market with consumers paying a premium for a second-hand handbag. However, this year, with some retailers reissuing designs from the archives it has prompted a resurgence in some classic vintage styles. This has had a positive impact on what they achieve on the resell market. Here are our most popular designs for 2023, you may want to check the back of your wardrobe!

GUCCI

The Gucci Horsebit

This year Gucci has reissued Tom Ford’s 2003/2004 Horsebit clutch. The new designs feature the Italian fashion house’s signature hardware, and an updated chain. It comes in an array of colours and prints, including Gucci’s classic monogram design and iconic stripe. 20 years ago, this design was hugely popular for Gucci and this reissue has prompted an increase in the resell value for the original early noughties models. Here are some of the new designs issued by Gucci:

The Gucci Horsebit 1955 in Crocodile retails on Gucci’s website for £21,970.

HERMÈS

The Kelly

We can’t discuss popular handbags without mentioning Hermès. The Kelly was first popularised by Grace Kelly, and appeals to both investors and buyers alike.

Here is a vintage Kelly selling for £9,562.50 at Bonhams in 2021:

Hermès accessories are a real investment and will always stand the test of time. Their limited availability only adds to their desirability, and it is always worth hunting for that special piece.

Below is a charm selling at auction for between £4,000 – £6,000:

The Birkin

The Birkin is always in huge demand, with limited availability and exceptional craftsmanship, they remain, as ever, elegant and recognisable. They make real collector’s items.

Named after Jane Birkin, this example is her original black Togo Birkin 35 selling at auction for £119,000 in 2021.


FENDI

The Fendi Baguette handbag

There’s a huge appetite for Fendi at the moment, specifically for the Baguette, with sales of the style booming.

Thanks to the Y2K trend, the Fendi Baguette has proved popular this season. Channel your inner Carrie Bradshaw with a sequinned version.

DIOR

Dior Saddle Bag

Dior’s Saddle Bag first made an appearance in Dior’s 1999 spring/summer ready-to-wear show. It is thought to have been inspired by a 1976 Helmut Newton photograph entitled ‘Saddle I, Paris’. However, this theory has never been verified by Dior.

Here is the Saddle Bag selling at auction for €2,040:

Lady Dior

The iconic Lady Dior packs a lot of history. It was first created in 1995 and named after Diana, Princess of Wales. It was originally gifted to her by Bernadette Chirac, the First Lady of France at the time. During the most recent season of ‘The Crown’ the Lady Dior started to gain a lot of attention on social media.

In 2022 Dior launched what they described as “the (re)brith of an icon”, the Lady 95.22.

An example of a Lady Dior selling at auction for £7,650:

PRADA

First released in 1984, Prada’s Nylon Bags are just as desirable as they were 40 years ago. The revival has been so popular, that last year’s Prada’s Re-Nylon Re-Edition 2000 mini bag was named as Lyst’s ‘Handbag of the Year’. It’s reported that web searches increased by 131 per cent, with views for #pradanylonbag generating over 4.2 million views.

Proof that practicality and luxury can go hand-in-hand!

Gucci Horsebit Handbags - Handbag icons

 


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Jane Birkin

Jane Birkin was a British-French actress, singer, and model. She was born in Marylebone in 1946 and moved to France in the 1960’s. She gained international fame for her role in the film ‘Blowup’ and is also known for her collaboration and relationship with French singer Serge Gainsbourg, with whom she recorded the iconic song ‘Je t’aime… moi non plus’. She had a successful career in music, film, and fashion, and was an influential figure in popular culture. In addition to her acting and musical credits, by a chance encounter, she lent her name to the Hermès Birkin handbag, the most iconic and sought-after luxury handbag in the world.

The Birkin bag was created by the French fashion house Hermès in 1984 and came into existence after Jane Birkin sat next to Jean- Louis Dumas, the then-CEO of Hermès, during a flight from Paris to London.

A Chance Encounter

Birkin had been upgraded to first class on an Air France flight and found herself sitting next to Dumas. Having just had her handbag destroyed by her then husband Jacques Doillon, she doesn’t recall which handbag she had decided to travel with that day. However, it was at the beginning of the journey, when trying to fit her bag in the overhead compartment that all the contents fell out. As she scrambled to collect her possessions, the gentleman next to her suggested that she should have a handbag with pockets, to which she replied, “The day Hermès makes one with pockets I will have that.” And he said: “But I am Hermès, and I will put pockets in for you.”

Birkin went on to suggest they make a handbag that is bigger than the Kelly but smaller than a suitcase. They went on to design it by roughly sketching the design on an in-flight sick bag! Once completed Dumas promised to create it, saying, “I’ll make it for you.”

In 1984, Dumas created a black supple leather bag for her: the Birkin bag, based on her design.

Birkin later went to Hermès to purchase the result of her in-flight special order, and Dumas gifted her the bag in exchange for her lending her surname to christen the design. She said she was very flattered to have the handbag named after her. Hermès later paid her £30,000 a year in royalties for using her name which was then passed on to her nominated charities. Jane Birkin loved her bag and decorated the straps with beaded bracelets, a miniature harmonica, and even a Hermès watch. About the watch, she said: “I don’t like to wear them, but sometimes you need the time.”

Birkin once commented that “Now when I go to America to sing, they say, ‘Birkin? Like the bag?’” I say, “Yes indeed: and the bag will now sing.”

The Birkin Bag

The Birkin bag is known for its classic and timeless design. Featuring clean lines and minimal hardware, it is a structured, rectangular tote bag that is available in various sizes, colours, and materials, including leather, exotic skins, and special limitededition versions. It is meticulously handcrafted by skilled artisans at Hermès workshops. The construction process is labour-intensive and can take several days to complete, ensuring exceptional quality and attention to detail. Due to this timely construction, it is renowned for its exclusivity and limited availability. Hermès restricts the number of bags produced each year, leading to high demand and often long waiting lists for customers wishing to purchase one.

The Birkin bag is considered a symbol of luxury and status. Its high-quality materials, craftsmanship, and prestigious brand association contribute to its premium price tag, often reaching anywhere from tens of thousands of pounds to hundreds of thousands for rare and unique examples. Due to its association with Jane Birkin, it is also extremely popular with celebrities and fashion icons. This further elevated its status as a fashion statement and investment piece.

The Birkin bag’s desirability and limited supply have contributed to a thriving resale market. Pre-owned Birkin bags not only retain their value very well but often appreciate over time, making them an attractive investment for collectors and fashion enthusiasts. The demand for Birkin bags is incredibly high, and the waiting list to purchase one is extremely long. It’s not uncommon for customers to wait months or even years before they can get their hands on a Birkin bag.

Value

Since the death of Jane Birkin, it has been reported that there has been an increase in searches for the Birkin bag by online pre-owned platforms and boutiques.

With no advertising, the Birkin bag’s cultural cache came from its scarcity, with secondhand versions increasing in value and often overtaking their original price.

Today, the Birkin bag has a starting price of about £7,000 with some worth up to £500,000 making it the world’s most expensive handbag with resell prices breaking global records.

Here are some examples of the Hermès Birkin selling for record breaking prices auction.

Its not only the exotic skins that sell for exceptional prices but all the Classic examples.

Here is an example of a biscuit Togo Birkin bag, with gold hardware, selling at auction in New York for $29,000.

I wonder how much the Birkin handbag will retail for in another 40 years. When the Birkin bag was first introduced in the 1980’s its RRP was $2000 now that price is over $10,000 and the second-hand figure is even higher! With these increases happening every year its essential to review your handbags value.

It’s amazing to consider the events of that day and how if Jane Birkin hadn’t been upgraded to first class, the Birkin bag may never have been designed.

Investment Handbags

The handbag industry has grown by over 65% in the last few years and is showing no signs of slowing down. Demand for handbags on the resale market has never been higher, and this once small industry is booming. In fact, investing in a handbag is a smart way to spend your money.

The industry

Luxury is synonymous with quality and quality promises longevity. Many of the popular handbag brands such as Hermès, are hand stitched by specially trained artisans, and made from the world’s most luxurious and fine materials. They are built to last and that’s part of the reason they remain staples forever. The same can be said for many of the other luxury brands such as Chanel and Louis Vuitton.

Over the last few years there has been a substantial rise in demand for preowned designer handbags, with brands such as Hermès, Chanel and Louis Vuitton making excellent prices on the resale market. Consumers are willing to pay a premium for a second-hand handbag, and this is one of the reasons why they are becoming such a great investment. In fact, some brands can achieve more at auction than what they are currently retailing for, and those retail prices are increasing year-on-year.

See below Hermès Birkin selling at auction for £15,300.

Why the rise in popularity?

The main reason this industry has soared is because the consumer has gained trust and confidence in buying preloved designer handbags. There are simply more experts and places to buy than ever before. If we look back 10 years, a Hermès handbag going through auction, would have been a single lot at the end of a jewellery sale, it was unusual to see a handbag at auction and they certainly did not warrant their own specialist sale. Now, most auction houses hold their own designer sales with teams of experts in the field.

See below increase in a Kelly handbag in 2007 selling for £400 and in 2023 selling for £7,650.

See below Louis Vuitton and Chanel classic from a sale in Christies 2006 as a group lot and selling for only £480. Now you could expect the LV to make that on its own.

As well as auction there has also been in an increase in online shops and boutiques. There are also handbag spas who specialise in the restoration of luxury handbags, so even one in used condition can be brought back to life.

The preloved industry has seen an increase in popularity over the last few years. One of the reasons for this increase is a desire for people to reduce their carbon footprint, as well as having a more active role in the circular economy. Buying second hand increases the life of a handbag and this keeps fashion out of landfills.

There is also so much more choice for the consumer on the resale market. This is because every season, fashion houses unveil new collections, and stop producing the older models. Anytime you shop directly from a brand, there are a finite number of pieces available for purchase. When buying resale, the consumer can choose from a wide selection of designs and vintage styles. This means access to limited-edition runs, discontinued colours and rare pieces that are no longer available from the labels themselves.

Hermès

As one of the most desired handbag brands in the world, the Hermès Kelly and Birkin make a great investment and are highly collectable. Due to the slow and precise crafting of the bags along with materials and leathers that are difficult to source, only a handful of bags are made by Hermès each year. This limits the ability to purchase new bags directly, hence the extremely lengthy waiting list, if you can even get on one to begin with. These are all factors that make the resale market such a popular place to purchase a Hermès bag; you get an amazing amount of choice and no waiting, and consumers are willing to pay a premium for this.

Look below at the examples of the same bag sold in 2005 £5,760 and 2022 for £11,000.

Kelly and Birkin handbag

Hermès, like many other brands, increase their retail prices at least once a year and when we look at this over their lifespan, we can start to see why they make such good investments. In the 1950’s a standard Kelly bag could have been purchased for $900, by the 60’s the same bag cost $1,300, the 70’s $2,400, the 80’s $4,000, the 90’s $5,100 and at the turn of the century it cost $7,400. Today, that exact bag has increased in value to $10,000 – $15,000. The same increase is seen with Birkin bags with a standard Birkin setting customers back $2,000 in 1980, $2,750 in 1990, $4,000 at the turn of the century, and today they sell for up to $20,000!

On the open market The Kelly and Birkin handbags will often sell for more than their recommended retail price (RRP) and as RRP’s increase, so will the resale price.

Below is a table showing the increases in the Kelly bag.

Below is the table showing the increase in a Birkin bag.

Special Order

Hermès produce a few custom designs each year, also known as Special Order or HSS and are identified by their Horseshoe Stamp. They are only offered to a select number of collectors, and the waiting time can be years before you are invited to purchase one, that is if you are lucky enough to get on the list. They are typically, in the Birkin, Kelly or Constance style and are one off mixes of fabrics, colours, and often bi-colour or tricolour with special hardware. These exclusive designs make a fantastic investment and are very popular on the second-hand market due to their uniqueness.

See below example of a special order.

Exotic skins

Hermès bags made from exotic skins are often in demand the most, with these typically increasing in value at a faster rate than standard skins. Exotic skins include lizard, ostrich, crocodile and alligator.

One of the most exclusive and expensive handbags in the world is the 30cm Himalaya Birkin, made from niloticus crocodile hide and has a subtle gradation in colour from white to grey, said to resemble the snow-capped Himalayas. Seen in the Birkin and Kelly style, the hardware is white gold and pave set with diamonds. These bags are the epitome of luxury and in 2021, one achieved over £400,000 at auction.

A very important thing to remember when purchasing a Hermès exotic skin handbag is to always buy one with its original CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species) certificate, this is the passport for the skin.

Colours

Hermès are known for their vibrant and unique colour combinations, however they also have an expert eye for neutral colours and offer a wide spectrum of neutral shades. These are very popular when it comes to the secondary market because they are so versatile when worn and remain timeless, however they also offer some fabulous brightly coloured versions, which are also very popular.

See below price example of Hermès handbag at auction.

Chanel

The demand for Chanel handbags and the lack of supply in most boutiques has led to the resale market rising at the same rate as retail prices.

Chanel increased their prices again in March this year (2023) with the ever-popular Chanel Classic Flap Bag increasing by 16%, making its new retail price more than £8,500, up from £7,250 earlier this year. Some other models increased by 14% and increases are expected to continue throughout the year.

The price of a Chanel handbag has steadily gained momentum since 2008 with prices accelerating faster over the last 5 years. Global demand for Chanel is high and despite their steady increase in prices, demand hasn’t fallen as evidenced by the strong resale market.

Let’s look back, in 1955 the Chanel 2.55 first sold for around £150 and currently retails for £8,530.

See below example of the 2.55.

The Chanel Classic Flap was first released in 1983 and sold for about £600 and now retails for £8,500.

A medium Chanel Boy Bag has increased from £3,600 in 2018 to £5,580 today and similarly the Wallet on Chain from £1,600 in 2018 to £3,210 today (2023).

See below example of the Chanel Boy Bag.

Chanel retail locations are still supply constrained and the classic bags are regularly sold out, this only fuels the demand on the resale market.

Resale prices for Chanel are also at record levels and pristine bags are in high demand. Collectors are looking for rare bags from previous seasons and sold-out new styles like the 2022 CC “In Love” Chanel Heart Bag.

Below is an example of a Chanel Classic exceeding its sale estimate.

Here is an example of a Chanel handbag selling at auction in 2003 for only $200.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton also can make a great investment!

Their classic designs are timeless, for example the Louis Vuitton Speedy, first released in the 1930’s, is a great handbag that can be purchased for under £1,000 on the resale market.

Other classic models that are very popular include the Alma, Keepall and Pochette.

See below examples of an LV going through auction.

See below Limited-Edition Louis Vuitton Speedy selling for $2,500 at auction.

See below Limited-Edition selling at auction.

The very best investment pieces by LV are the Limited-Edition versions.

While Marc Jacobs was creative director for LV he partnered with Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami and Yoyoi Kusama to create Limited-Edition bags that remain highly sought-after in the secondary market (see three examples below).

Conclusion

With styles of Hermès making six figure sums, and auctions selling handbags totalling over £1.34 million in a single sale, now is a great time to review your handbag’s value, you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

Hermes Birkin Handbag

Hermes – Birkin Handbags

20th Century Iconic Art, without the Baggage

A handbag is by definition an item of luggage that carries one’s items in a simple and yet practical manner. However, in the world of designer and haute couture pieces, it’s much, much more than that.

In the last 20 years, collecting has waned in numerous fields, long gone are the days when that ultra-desirable piece of porcelain from Eastern Germany caused a furore in the auction world… there are however a new breed of collectors who consider exclusivity, style and quality to be of a far higher imperative than age or other factors.

The best place to start with any overview of handbags is the classic Birkin by Hermes. Whilst it is nowhere near the oldest, or most original bag on the market – it defines what has become the phenomenon of collecting what many might consider to be an everyday item.

Hermes Classic Birkin 35

The Birkin was originally designed by Jean-Louis Dumas in the early 1980s and named after the English actress and sometime muse of Serge Gainsbourg, Jane Birkin. Designed to contain all that a lady needed from make up to a hairbrush, and no doubt a few packets of Gauloises.

Since its initial launch the Birkin has become what can only be described as the near definition of a Veblen item, with demand far outstripping availability. It was an instant investment from day one and many collectors now long for those early bags that represented the ethos of the Birkin, in maybe its purest form.

When looking at collections of handbags, one is often struck by the lack of use that these items actually have. I have clients that purchase a £25,000 bag for Royal Ascot, and it will see the light of day for maybe 12 hours at most, then become relegated to the ‘also ran’ shelf at the back of the undoubtably extensive wardrobe.

Hermes Birkin exclusive design by George Condo – gifted by Kanye West to Kim Kardashian

What still shocks me, and usually the owners of these glamorous items, is their ever-increasing values. The most basic, (if the word ‘basic’ should ever be applied to a Birkin), usually increases by at least 15% each year. The very nature of the way that these are produced means that replacing an item, like for like, is pretty much impossible unless you can find one on the ever increasing (but often over inflated) secondary collectible handbag market.

Naturally, over the years bags that have been long since discontinued have gained an almost legendary, mythical status with some exotic skin models reaching astronomical figures, well into the £100,000s bracket. What’s strange is that there are still some bags out there that were purchased still in private collections that are used every day, and the owners have no idea of their potential value.

As a valuer I see, on a weekly basis, these iconic, almost legendary pieces of artwork relegated to a general contents category when it comes to insurance, when in fact they exemplify a modern collectible – certainly not just baggage.

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