Vogue’s Five Jewellery ‘Trends’ of 2026 – Worth the Investment or a Passing Phase?

Posted on January 15, 2026January 15, 2026 by Jenny Serra

British Vogue has spoken, late last year an article was published outlining the five ‘major’ jewellery trends that Vogue is predicting for 2026. We have cast our eye over these fashionable trends straight from the runway, and provided suggestions of pieces that may already be in your collection, or prudent purchases that will continue to hold value in the coming years, and of course – we couldn’t resist adding our own forecasted trends for the year ahead.

Bold Jewellery Over Stacking

According to the Vogue article, bold and sculptural pieces worn singularly are set to overtake the previous trends of layering necklaces and stacking rings. ‘Atmospheric’ pieces, bold in proportion, design and colour are the key for adding life to minimalist styled clothing. In the search for bold, statement jewellery at a reasonable price, I would always recommend turning to the auction catalogues. On the hunt for a ‘coral’ comparable I found these charming bird earrings – certainly a statement, estimated at only £300-500.

Torques, Collars and Cuffs

Celebrating the versatility of the collar and cuff, Vogue asserts that these pieces can be worn over a fine knit or combined with a simple t-shirt. The perfect way to add some style substance to nearly any outfit, Vogue selects a Gucci costume jewellery collar necklace retailing for £810, we would recommend a perennial classic, the Elsa Peretti Bone Cuff, or any gold cuffs, flat snake chains or torque bangles that you may already have in your collection.

Silver Jewellery

Vogue quite rightly references the extreme rise in gold prices in its predictions for the year ahead. Silver jewellery has been spotted on several catwalks and presents a cost-effective alternative to white gold both at the jewellers’ bench and to the end consumer. As such, mixing metals and two-toned designs are predicted to be amongst the more prevalent trends for the coming year. We would recommend selecting signed silver pieces, particularly from Scandinavian makers such as Georg Jensen, Lapponia, Anton Michelsen or contemporaries as these pieces retain a timeless style and a fairly consistent premium on the open market.

Pinky Rings

Vogue certainly touts 2026 as “the year of the pinky ring,” a fairly timeless staple in many jewellery collections. The pinky rings this year however veer further from the classic signet rings, eschewing these for more intricate gem-set and intricately engraved designs. Vogue’s correspondent references a portrait cut synthetic sapphire ring from Jilian Maddin, retailing for £5,595. Other contemporary jewellers that add a creative flair to this trend are Castro Smith and Cece Jewellery.

‘Pieces with Permanence’ – Fine Over Demi-Fine Jewellery

An ongoing style resolution that we can all vouch for! Opting for precious gemstones, and pieces with material permanence is always ‘in vogue’!

Our Suggested Fine Jewellery Trends for 2026 and Beyond!

Coloured Gemstones and Diamonds

In a sea of fashionably neutral and earth-toned outfits, jewellery is a wonderful way to add some flair. The continuing demand for natural, high quality coloured gemstones and fancy coloured diamonds, in opposition to colourless D-F grade laboratory-grown diamonds will see no letting up. Big investments from retailers and manufacturers into promoting tinted and brown diamonds at retail level – see De Beers. Desert Diamonds have indicated this sartorial push. Of course, breathtaking canary yellow, vibrant pink, orange, blue and green diamonds will continue their reign at the very top end of the market. Coloured gemstones of natural origin such as sapphires, rubies, spinel, emerald and opal will continue to add vibrancy to the most discerning of collections.

Unique Cuts

The high-profile engagement rings of 2025, coupled with the overarching desire for the rare, unique and coveted has shone a spotlight on lapidary, carving and manufacturing. I would expect this demand for pieces delivering ‘out of the ordinary’ stone shapes to only continue into 2026 and thereafter. Whether it be the unique and charming qualities of old cut diamonds, fascinating historical intaglios that tell ancient tales, brand-new innovative diamond cuts or hyper-realistic hardstone carvings, jewels showcasing these exquisitely finished stones will deservedly find an increased popularity that will outlast many seasons to come.

Setting Stones

Combining each of the predictions above, a big trend that can be expected into the coming years is the use of semi-precious stones for setting their precious counterparts in contemporary jewellery. Jonathan Anderson teased this trend in his first runway show for Dior last year, stacking agate and turquoise bangles each set with diamond and quartz. Breathtaking and ‘cutting-edge’ releases from the likes of Seaman Schepps and Ana Khouri seem to indicate a propulsion of the trend and a modern take on Suzanne Belperron’s distinctive Mid-Century style.

Our Number One Trend – Jewellery Collection Maintenance

At Doerr Dallas, we see first-hand the significance of not only acquiring timeless and stylish pieces, but maintaining them too. Our team of specialists can help with the ongoing care of your fine jewellery collection. Keeping regularly updated and accurate insurance valuations, stones and settings checks, clasp inspections, and keeping a record of your documentation are absolutely vital in protecting yourself from loss, and in the event of a loss. Contact us today for further information on our jewellery valuation services.

Why Are Indian Bridal Gold Jewellery Sets a Target for Thieves?

Posted on December 4, 2025December 4, 2025 by Jenny Serra

In August the Metropolitan Police released images of gold jewellery set with precious gems, such as rubies and diamonds, which were stolen at the end of last year, 30th December 2024 in Bromley, London. The stolen items appear to be of Indian origin. The jewels comprised of several wedding suite traditionally worn by the bride on her wedding day.

Typically, there are five components to a suite worn by the bride; a necklace, earrings, bangles, maang tikka and nath. These would all be of the same style with the same beading and pierce design. They are also typically set with semi-precious and precious gemstones such as emeralds, rubies and sapphires. They can also be highlighted by diamonds. It is said that 90% of cut diamonds originate in India and most deposits of sapphires and rubies are very close by to the region which is why it is so common to see those preferred gems set in these wedding suites rather than any other gems.

The necklaces are usually very delicate and quite substantial, with fringes and multi strands. Together they are crafted with matching earrings of pendent design. This will be paired by several bangles, often of pure gold. They can be adorned with semi-precious gems, but not always. They will however keep the same style as the necklace and the earrings. The bride also wears an ornament on her forehead and that is the maang tikka. And lastly the nose ring, which is the nath.

These jewels are typically set in 22 or 24 karat gold, giving it a very shiny yellow aspect. This is the preferred carat purity used in most Indian jewellery, especially wedding suites. Most items will be stamped 22K, 916 or 24K, 999. With the world in turmoil we have seen gold prices rising to record prices. Today’s price for 22 carat gold is £86.09 per gram. 24 carat gold is £93.92 per gram. One can see why the burglars thought buying some very fine gold jewellery would be the most lucrative loot. Furthermore, most Indian jewellery suites rarely have maker’s marks or signatures, making it hard to trace in the case of a robbery. Equally, the gems set in these pieces will not have distinctive engravings such as is the case for certain diamonds for example. With diamonds, it is not unusual to have GIA report number lasered on the girdle (the side of the stone).

The detective interviewed about this case by the BBC, Detective Constable White, had said that “helpfully, a number of the pieces stolen are unique, so we are hoping that releasing these photographs will jog someone’s memory.” Sadly, I do not share the same optimism, even though these pieces are indeed unique, due to the reasons stated above. I also have strong reasons to believe these items won’t be resold on the black market but more likely broken up: the gems to one side and the gold melted and sold.

It is said the value of the theft is “enormous”, valued at £500,000, but “the sentimental value was priceless”, passed on from several generations.

With the ever-changing prices of gold, it is essential to have regular updated valuations, especially when dealing with jewellery predominantly set with heavy and very fine gold. Descriptions and images of good quality are essential, recording any specific and unique detail which might help identify and recover the jewels in a worst-case scenario. Though valued at half a million GBP in 2024, that number will have increased since the robbery late last year.

Rising Silver and Gold Prices: What You Need to Know

Posted on November 12, 2025November 12, 2025 by Jenny Serra

The Current Market: Gold and Silver at Record Levels

The recent surge in gold prices has rightly attracted attention, but silver has also seen a significant rise. Although this has received less coverage in mainstream media, the increase is substantial.

To put this into perspective, the spot price of silver on 18 October 2023 was £18.75 per troy ounce. On the same date in 2025, it stood at £38.68, and reached a peak of £40.86 on 17 October 2025. The last major spike was in 2011, when prices hit £26.43. This sharp rise marks a significant shift in the silver market, and experts do not expect prices to return to earlier levels.

Gold prices have seen even more dramatic movement. On 18 October 2023, gold stood at £1,592.60 per troy ounce. Two years later, on the same date in 2025, it had almost doubled to £3,152.51, and as of 21 October 2025, it continues to rise at £3,197.02 per troy ounce.

A Global Perspective on Gold

In January 2025, the World Gold Council reported that jewellery spending had risen by almost 10% in 2024, even though the quantity of jewellery purchased had decreased by a similar percentage. Despite fluctuations in spending and consumption, gold prices continued to break records.

This surge coincided with the return of Donald Trump to the White House in January 2025, when the gold price reached £1,979 per troy ounce. The increase has encouraged many with unwanted gold jewellery to sell their items and take advantage of the market.

Robin Kolvenbach, Co-CEO of Swiss-based Argor-Heraeus (part of the Heraeus Group) and a board member of the London Bullion Market Association, explained that there are no signs of demand weakening. “In periods of crisis, the demand for 10-gram gold ingots tends to rise sharply as it is seen as a refuge placement,” he said.

At the end of 2024, the United States held around 23% of the world’s gold reserves, with 8,122 tonnes, followed by Germany (3,351 tonnes), Italy, France, Russia, and China (each between 2,452 and 2,279 tonnes), then Switzerland (1,040 tonnes) and India (876 tonnes).

Countries such as India, China, Turkey, and Poland continue to purchase gold for their federal reserves. However, private individuals have also turned to gold as a long-term safe investment — a status it has maintained consistently over the past 30 years.

How These Changes Affect Collectors and Owners

For clients, these price movements have a direct impact. Replacement costs — whether buying new, on the secondary market, or second-hand — are now much higher due to the rise in base metal prices.

While demand for domestic silver has declined in recent years, anyone needing to replace silver items could find themselves underinsured if their policy has not been reviewed within the past 12 months.

If you own a silver collection, consider how you would replace it in the event of a loss. Your current sums insured may no longer reflect today’s values.

Gold owners face similar issues. The continued rise in gold prices affects both resale and replacement costs. If you haven’t had your gold, jewellery, or other precious items valued recently, now is the time to arrange an updated valuation – particularly as diamond prices have also fluctuated over the past year.

The Jewellery Market: Rising Costs and Considerations

The ongoing price increases have also influenced the jewellery market. For those looking to remodel or upgrade unworn jewellery, the cost of gold purity is a key consideration. Choosing between 18ct, 14ct, or 9ct gold can have serious financial implications.

However, opting for a lower carat does not necessarily detract from a modernised piece’s beauty – especially if it’s set with repurposed gemstones, such as a sapphire from a family heirloom. By substituting 18ct for 14ct or 9ct gold, you can free up funds and potentially expand your updated collection.

For those who prefer not to alter their jewellery, it’s worth noting that the price of gold has increased by 920% between 2000 and 2025. This has prompted many to sell or “scrap” their gold. However, there’s an important distinction between simple gold jewellery (such as chains or gate bracelets) and collectible pieces from designers like Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels, where value is driven as much by design and craftsmanship as by gold content.

Not all resale prices will rise in line with gold’s value. Collectible and vintage pieces have their own market dynamics and tend to reach a ceiling driven by demand rather than material value alone.

Modern pieces, however, are directly affected by metal prices. For example, the Cartier Love collection, available in white, rose, and yellow gold, sees annual retail price increases linked to fluctuations in the gold market.

Despite higher retail prices, gold jewellery remains a favourite and reliable investment for consumers – admired for both its lasting appeal and financial stability.

A Sensible Next Step

With such dramatic movement in both gold and silver prices, it’s unlikely that values will return to earlier levels soon. Owners of jewellery, silverware, and other precious metal items should review their insurance valuations to make sure they accurately reflect current market conditions.

If your last valuation was more than a year ago, an update is strongly recommended. This ensures your items are properly insured and that you won’t face shortfalls in the event of a claim or loss.

For expert advice or to arrange an updated valuation, contact Doerr Dallas Valuations on 01883 722736, email [email protected].

Goldsmiths’ Hall and Fair: Bridging Heritage and Contemporary Design

Posted on September 25, 2025September 25, 2025 by Jenny Serra

Goldsmiths’ Hall, situated at the junction of Foster Lane and Gresham Street in the City of London, has served as the headquarters of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths since at least 1339, making it the longest-continuously held site among London’s livery companies. The Company itself was granted a Royal Charter in 1327 under Edward III and has operated from this location ever since.

Goldsmiths’ Hall serves as the long-standing venue for the London Assay Office, established during medieval reforms under Edward I to test and hallmark silver and gold objects. The hallmark, the leopard’s head, remains the registered mark of the Company to this day.

The current hall is the third to occupy the site. The first, acquired by nineteen goldsmiths in 1339, was a merchant’s house repurposed as the Company’s Hall. The second hall, constructed circa 1634–1636 under the supervision of Nicholas Stone and incorporating Inigo Jones’s design advice, was later destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 but subsequently rebuilt. The existing hall was built between 1829 and 1835. It was inaugurated in 1835 with a banquet attended by the Duke of Wellington and Sir Robert Peel. The building suffered bomb damage during the Second World War but was restored and is the thriving heart of the Goldsmiths’ company and the venue for many associated events including the annual Goldsmiths’ Fair.

Since 1982, the Hall has hosted the annual Goldsmiths’ Fair. This evolved from a modest exhibition known as “Loot” hosted by the hall in the late 1970’s. This year the Fair brings together 136 exhibitors working across contemporary jewellery and silversmithing disciplines. Fifteen of these are debut participants: five new exhibitors as well as ten recipients of the Emerging Business Bursary, which provides free stands, financial support, and professional development.

The Fair offers visitors direct access to the makers and an opportunity to purchase unique works, learn about techniques and creative processes, and commission bespoke pieces. Its curated displays and dedicated talks spotlight particular skills and thematic approaches, reflecting both contemporary practice and rooted craftsmanship.

The Goldsmiths’ Company has long played a strategic role in reviving and promoting British silversmithing and jewellery design. Graham Hughes who served as Art Director from 1951 to 1981, was instrumental in fostering talents such as David Mellor, Robert Welch, and Stuart Devlin, and in organising landmark exhibitions like the 1961 International Exhibition of Modern Jewellery. More recently, Jocelyn Burton, Ndidi Ekubia, and Na’ama Haneman are examples of makers whose participation in the Fair has led to public commissions and acquisitions since establishing their reputations at Goldsmiths’ Hall.

In addition to the Fair, Goldsmiths’ Hall itself offers guided tours of its principal rooms and collections, led by librarians and curators. There are two remaining tour dates in 2025 on the 10 November, and Monday 8 December. The tours give you access to rooms rarely seen by the public. Tickets are priced at £10, and proceeds support vocational training and craft-related charitable initiatives.

Goldsmiths’ Hall stands as both a guardian of centuries-old tradition and a dynamic venue for contemporary creativity. The Goldsmiths’ Fair, bridges past and present by nurturing and showcasing the work of emerging and established makers alike. Whether you have a professional interest or a curiosity to see the melding of history and current innovation, this should be a must visit attraction in the Autumn calendar.

Goldsmiths’ Fair 2025 will be held in two consecutive weeks:
Week One: Tuesday, 23 September – Sunday, 28 September 2025
Week Two: Tuesday, 30 September – Sunday, 5 October 2025; the Fair is closed on Monday, 29 September

Public opening hours are:
11:00 to 18:30, with last admission at 18:00, Monday through Saturday
11:00 to 16:30, with last admission at 16:00, on Sundays

Why Relying on Old Valuations Could Cost You Thousands

Posted on July 17, 2025August 13, 2025 by Jenny Serra

The Case for Up-to-Date Jewellery Valuations in a Rapidly Shifting Market

Gold at an all-time high, diamonds in freefall, ruby values that look like telephone numbers. Welcome to jewellery valuations in 2025 as the jewellery market is moving and shifting at great speed and it can sometimes be difficult to keep up.

Which is why it is so important you have your appraisals up to date.

The global diamond jewellery market reached £46 billion in 2023, £49.3 billion in 2024 and is set to reach over £90 billion by 2032. Why the continuous rise? Let’s explore a few key areas impacting jewellery value and market trends.

It’s been an interesting year for everyone but for insurance teams that depends on accurate and dependable valuations, then it’s become increasingly vital to work with valuation specialists.

For a private client to ensure your values are up to date and you are not going to have a shock in the event of a claim, a valuation needs to be within the last 24 months.

Look at any jewellery auction across the country this year and every heavy gold piece will have early offers ahead of the auction. Small time gold buyers have sprung up all over the country and are making the most of the increasingly high gold bullion price.

Brick and mortar jewellers are reviewing their prices every three months and this week I received an email from a goldsmith who I regularly use stating;

“All gold prices are estimated at present, we advise that the final bill will be slightly amended due to the fluid nature of the gold price”. To qualify the need for this unusual statement, as I write pure Gold is trading at $2481 per troy ounce. It was $1805 per ounce 12 months ago.

Insurers and their clients need to be reviewing their policies, not just for gold.

Diamonds – What price difference are we talking about?

Comparatively, a De Beers ring set with a brilliant-cut diamond weighing 0.51 carat, G colour and VS1 clarity retails for £5,900. Pandora offers the same diamond, but lab-grown for £825. There’s no denying the price tag is attractive and not surprising that they are projected to represent 25% of the market by 2030.

Another shift is the confidence in online shopping and the rise of E-Commerce. Consumers will spend a great deal more without seeing the item than they did prior to Covid. A recent study showed that online jewellery sales had gone up by 30% during that period.

Art Deco Tutti Frutti bracelet by Cartier – This stunning bracelet came up for sale at Sotheby’s on 28th April 2020 over the course of a four-day sale, online only due to confinement restrictions. It sold for £1 million and set a world record for any jewel sold online and any jewel sold in 2020.

When reputation and trust precede a brand, clients will happily buy blindly. And that is what luxury brands are banking on and it’s working. There is a steady continuous increase in prices each year on the most popular items.

A pair of Tiffany & Co. Victoria diamond earrings have gone from £3,100 in 2003, to £4,925 in 2010, £8,775 in 2021 and up to its current value of £9,125.

There are no signs of slowing down for luxury brands. When it comes to branded pieces, such as De Beers or Tiffany & Co. it still seems to be a safe investment with return on investment definitely worth the waiting for. With values of signed pieces creeping up and diamond markets fluctuating as do the insurance values.

Rubies and sapphires have seen some big increases. If your clients’ purchased sizable gemstones in the 1960’s,70’s,80’s, 90’s ( before excessive treatments became the norm) then these gems are very attractive to the market. There are simply not enough to fill demand.

Interestingly there is far less demand for emeralds at present! But, that could change due to fashion or popularity (if the stars start wearing emeralds, we could see market changes)!

The big question over the next 18 months will be how to value diamonds? Natural diamonds that is.

It is now common knowledge that manufactured diamonds (also known as Lab grown diamonds) currently change hands for about 5-15% of their natural counterparts. If you would like to know a little more as to why this is do look back at some of the previous articles. Manufactured diamonds are here to stay and have found a home in the Bridal and costume jewellery market. This has sent the market for smaller, natural lower quality diamonds tumbling. Why have a lower quality smaller natural stone when you could have a fine colour and clarity manufactured earring set which you don’t mind losing on the beach!

However, the smart minds will be watching the bigger, higher quality natural stone prices. That is diamonds over 3ct, G/H colour and above with a good cut and proportions.

Why? Because these will be in smaller and smaller supply in the coming years – and we are already seeing the effect at the point of sale both on the high street and at auction.

American Tariffs, the Ukrainian / Russian conflict and the Israeli/ Palestinian conflict have interrupted the long-established routes for rough diamond via the cutting centres to the waiting consumer. This is a subject, in its own right, to explore in the future.

There are still plenty of diamonds to purchase in Europe. Despite Americans holding tight onto their precious stocks as increased tariffs mean they cannot competitively purchase at the moment.

The stock of the better-quality stones, so loved by high-net-worth clients, may well start to dry up due to the convulsing diamond industry and therefore those prices will rise. These thoughts have been recently reinforced following published comments from the London diamond Bourse and Diamnet Founder Howard Levine.

This is a defining period for the jewellery trade as rarity, real luxury, taste and craftsmanship will continue to be sought out. These rare pieces, newly purchased or family held, need to be valued effectively and not be confused and undervalued with the mass produced, lower quality pieces.

The need for a valuation – for clients who haven’t had their jewellery values in the last 24 months, they will see a difference in valued and could find any claim could be problematic without one. Applying generic inflation percentages as a tool to update valuations, would be incorrect and inevitably lead to jewellery being under or over insured.

Because jewellery is the product of so many moving parts, it is essential to revalue one’s jewellery collection on a regular basis. Prices may vary several times within a single calendar year and our recommendation would be to get an official jewellery valuation at least every other year. And while your specialist is there, make sure every clasp and setting of stones is checked. A lost stone has monetary value but, in most cases, the emotional attachment to the piece makes the gem priceless and irreplaceable.

Alan Gard (1936–2025): Celebrating a Legacy of Innovation in British Jewellery

Posted on April 23, 2025May 21, 2025 by Jenny Serra

The jewellery industry was saddened to learn of the death of one of the great mid-century British jewellers, Alan Gard. Alan Martin Gard apprenticed at Bond Street and worked for Andrew Grima, before forming his own jewellery business in 1964 at the age of 29.

Working in the 1960s and with contemporaries such as John Donald, David Thomas and Gillian Packard, Gard was a key part of the experimentation and exuberance of the British ‘jewellery renaissance.’ During this decade, jewellers disrupted conventional design and the austerity of the decades before, with experimentation in goldsmithing, statement pieces, gemstone setting and sculptural forms. Gard continued to work until the 21^st century, adapting and refining his style with his own take on contemporary design, however it is the experimental pieces from the 1960s and the earlier portion of his career in which he gained his fame that are the most distinctive.

Gaining well-deserved repute for his skill and eye, Gard’s work soon achieved royal acclaim. His Lilypad brooch of 1967 was in Princess Margaret’s collection and was sold at Christie’s legendary sale of her jewels in 2006 for £10,200.

More recently, in September 2023, at the age of 87 he was commissioned by the author Jeffrey Archer to recreate the Imperial State Crown for his novel Traitors Gate – it took Gard 500 hours to complete and was a complete replica, formed from a base metal alloy, cultured pearls, synthetic stones and glass stones – a true testament to his craftsmanship.

Textured Gold

Experimenting with the forms, malleability and limitations of gold in the 1960s, Gard created wonderfully textured pieces, working with bark-like textures, nests of gold, rods, nugget-like forms, polished accents and maze-like structures to name a few. Most frequently working in 18ct yellow gold, it is these pieces that purist collectors’ favour.

Stunning Sculptural Forms

Alan Gard created bold, sculptural, and statement pieces. Often wonderfully dimensional and formed from layers and nests of gold, these jewels are so typical of their time and yet can appear incredibly modern and fresh today. The suite below crafted with a flattened, pierced and abstract design, is set with fifty-one ruby cabochons and sold at Bonhams in 2016 for £17,500.

Celebrating Gemstones

Another of Gard’s design hallmarks is the sparing use of diamonds. They are frequently used as small accents to add a slight sparkle to dramatic gold settings but are hardly ever the principal stone. Instead, Gard favoured coloured gemstones, and natural crystal forms with unpolished rough specimens, and where polished he showcased gemstone’s natural inclusions and conventional ‘imperfections.’ One such example is the pink tourmaline ring above, in which the tourmaline’s prevalent needle-like inclusions provide a symmetry to the gold needle ‘nest’ surround.

Another example of tourmaline in Gard’s work is shown in this brooch dating to 1967. Here he celebrates the natural form of tourmaline, using wonderful ‘watermelon’ slices of the natural crystal as the centrepiece of his design.

Other rough and polished gems to feature in his jewels include amethyst, peridot, ruby, emerald, turquoise, aquamarine, pearl, opal and countless others.

To arrange a jewellery valuation, call us on 01883 722736 or email us at [email protected]

Diamond Prices and Jewellery Insurance – The Truth Behind the Headlines

Posted on February 27, 2025July 24, 2025 by Jenny Serra

Anyone in the jewellery or related industries can’t open their laptop without being hit by another doom-laden headline about diamond prices.

The latest reports declare that Anglo American, the majority owner of De Beers, has published another vast write-down of its investment. Meanwhile, Alrosa, the Russian diamond giant, has been propped up by the Russian government. Both companies are reportedly stockpiling around $2 billion worth of unsold diamonds in an increasingly challenging global market, driven by geopolitical tensions and advancing technology.

These are mining giants, and the headlines are dramatic. However, it takes around two years for a diamond to move from the mine to the shop window. This is a crucial factor when valuing an engagement ring. Despite the headlines, these market shifts do not immediately affect valuations or replacement costs. Diamond prices fluctuate constantly, and experienced valuers rely on top trade sources such as RapNet. The best valuers consult at least three independent sources for each stone they assess.

A knowledgeable valuer will also understand the impact of Russian sanctions introduced in 2024, the conflict in the Middle East, and the downturn in Chinese middle-class spending. All of these factors influence diamond pricing and the ability to source replacements in case of loss.

The Danger of Headlines

Professional brokers, insurers, and jewellery owners are often short on time, scanning dozens of headlines each day. Decisions made solely on headlines risk being based on incomplete or misleading information. At worst, they could be influenced by an opinion piece paid for by a company with something to sell.

Diamonds hold a unique place in the retail market, as they have for centuries. Once reserved for royalty and the wealthiest elites, diamonds became a mainstream expectation by the 1950s, particularly as engagement rings for modern, independent women.

The Perception of Falling Prices

“But diamond prices are falling,” you may say.

Historically, younger buyers and the bridal market have been major consumers of small natural diamonds. However, over the past decade, their social feeds have been flooded with man-made diamonds (not ‘laboratory-grown’ which is a misnomer) and high-quality, stylish dress jewellery from brands like TJC and Pandora. The shift in pricing, environmental concerns, and changing consumer preferences have had a major impact on the lower-to-mid market.

It is true that diamonds under 1.50ct have seen price drops, in some cases by as much as 30%, as their key buyers have moved away.

Prices are per diamond for a round brilliant cut, F colour VS1 clarity GIA diamond Report in March of each year.

These are approximate selling prices in the UK at that time with the historic approximate retail margins and timely interest rates taken into consideration.

But Do Not Be Fooled

The high-net-worth market is thriving.

Diamonds over 2ct have always been beyond the reach of most buyers, making them the preferred size for professionals and affluent individuals. Second marriages, milestone anniversaries, or the sale of a business often drive purchases at this level. This is not the market that man-made diamonds have disrupted.

For high-net-worth and ultra-high-net-worth clients, jewellery values are not falling. Rubies bought in the 1990s, heirloom Art Deco and Cartier pieces, and upgraded engagement rings all hold their worth. In fact, many of my clients own multiple engagement rings, one for weekday wear and another for weekends.

Man-made diamonds are certainly purchased, but often as travel jewellery or gifts for daughters rather than as investment pieces.

A glance at recent fine jewellery auctions shows that branded vintage pieces from Cartier, Verdura, and Van Cleef & Arpels continue to command strong prices, along with larger, certified diamonds. These are not easily replaced and require an expert valuer to determine a proper replacement figure. Some brands such as Cartier and Tiffany increase their prices twice a year. On average the basic beautiful LOVE bangle from Cartier increases £300 every year.

New

Pragnalls Jewellers 1.51ct - £18,000	Pragnalls Jewellers 3.02ct - £74,650
Second Hand

Cartier yellow and white diamond cross over ring Wooley & Wallis auctioneers Estimate £4-6k Hammer £9.5k	Victorian antique cluster ring Harper Field Auctions Estimate £8,500 - £10,500, Hammer £28,500	1980's Cartier Panthere earrings $66,000 at Opulent Jewellers - USA

Additional Factors

Another important factor is the price of gold – the value of a 1 Troy Ounce of gold has increased 819% from 2000 – 2024, as displayed in this graph:

Pound / Dollar interest rates have fallen and retail margins have had to be pared back to compete with global and technological competition and wages for goldsmiths, polishers, cutters, apprentices, setters have in some cases tripled since 2000.

The Role of Professional Valuers

Valuing jewellery, like the value of a car, is a sum of its parts plus the brand, popularity, rarity and condition. One would not stop valuing cars because the price of steel had dipped. So too is the case for the valuation of diamond jewellery even when the markets are in flux.

Jewellery valuation is a specialised profession that does not always get the credit it deserves. It requires years, often decades, of expertise, and valuers do not typically shout about their knowledge.

But in a world flooded with misinformation and sensational headlines, their insight is more relevant than ever.

So, where do you get your information?

To arrange a jewellery valuation call us on 01883 722736 or [email protected]

From Wreaths to Gold: The Evolution and Value of Olympic Medals

Posted on July 30, 2024December 2, 2025 by Rachel Doerr

The 2024 summer Olympics in Paris is the 33rd Olympics of the modern Olympiad and the third time that Paris has hosted the event; the previous occasions being in 1900 and 1924. Paris is only the third city to have put on the games three time, the other cities being London and Los Angeles.

This year approximately 11,000 athletes will be competing for the gold, silver and bronze medals awarded in each discipline. In the ancient games, Olympians received a wreath formed from an olive branch; and that only for the winner. Nowadays, there is something rather more substantive and enduring as a token of achievement.

The design of the medals is the responsibility of the host city’s organising committee and varies with each iteration of the Games. The first Olympic medals in 1896 were designed by French sculptor Jules-Clément Chaplain and depicted on the obverse, Zeus holding Nike, the Greek goddess of victory; the reverse showed the Acropolis. They were made by the Paris Mint, which also made the medals for the 1900 Olympic Games and are responsible for this year’s medals. The medals for 2024 are currently stored at the Mint prior to of the start of the games.

The tradition of awarding gold, silver and bronze medals was first instigated at the Summer Olympics in 1904 in St Louis, Missouri, although competition place medals were retrospectively awarded to competitors in the 1896 and 1900 games.

It is the International Olympic Committee (IOC) which determine the physical properties of the medals. Although they were rectangular in 1900, in every other year they have been circular. Over time the designs have been honed, originally medals were handed out, then pinned to chests and then finally in 1960 they were hung around the neck; initially with a laurel chain and subsequently on a ribbon. The three tier victory podium was not introduced until 1931. Prior to this, medals were awarded at the closing ceremony with athletes wearing evening dress.

Until 1912, the gold medals were made of gold. This would be prohibitively expensive these days, but they are still made of silver gilt and at current prices the gold medals from the 2020 Olympics held in Tokyo in 2021 are worth about £630. The silver medals are made from sterling standard silver, which is 92.5% silver; and the bronze medals are predominantly copper at about 97% with zinc and tin alloy to give strength.

An Olympic medal is the pinnacle of any athlete’s career and monetary value is irrelevant compared with the physical embodiment of years of training, sacrifice and perseverance. That said, and without seeming crude, in our world we are sometimes required to put prices on the ‘priceless.’

In Paris this year the successful athletes will be receiving medals that symbolise the motto of the modern Olympics, ‘ Faster, Higher, Stronger – together.’; medals made from gold, silver, copper, tin and zinc. I suspect however, that the athletes might view them as the embodiment of blood, sweat and tears.

Clyde Purnell’s 1908 Olympic Games gold medal for football fetched £18,000 (plus premium) at auction in June 2024. This medal, produced prior to 1912, is made from 15 carat gold, but nonetheless the sale price far exceeds the scrap metal price, which is a little under £1,000.

Swimmer Michael Phelps is the mostdecorated Olympian of all time. He has won 28 medals, 23 of which are gold. He has enjoyed being on the front cover of Sports Illustrated twelve times.

We wish all our Olympians ‘bon courage’ and enjoy Paris.

Jewellery Pick of the Week Cannes Film Festival

Posted on June 11, 2024November 11, 2024 by Rachel Doerr

It should come as no surprise to those who have read my previous articles that I would have chosen Cannes Film Festival for this week’s pick. A red carpet is always a good opportunity to see some of the most beautiful haute couture and jewellery which are inaccessible to most of us. Today I am looking at jewellery pieces by Tiffany & Co. worn by Camille Cottin – for whom I happen to have written a feature length jewellery heist screenplay.

As Mistress of Ceremony of the 77th Cannes Festival, and ambassador for Tiffany & Co., the spectacular French actress wore Tiffany Edge diamond drop earrings. These are set with 3.27cts of diamonds, mounted in platinum and 18ct yellow gold and retail for £32,800.

That same evening for the gala’s opening dinner, while still adhering to a very chic and elegant style, she sported another Tiffany & Co. suite from the HardWear collection.

Her neck was adorned with the Tiffany HardWear Graduated Link Necklace in yellow gold and pavé diamonds. It retails for £72,500 and is set with 9.07cts of diamonds.

The earrings en suite are set with 1.18cts of diamonds and retail for £15,800.

This particular jewellery line comes in white, yellow and rose gold, and can, as demonstrated the last few days, be worn to any circumstances, it really is a girl’s best friend.

The choice in design from Tiffany & Co. jewellery seems to resonate the theme of this year’s opening ceremony: women at the forefront of film and creativity. Camille Cottin’s speech mentioned #MeToo movement, the extraordinary Meryl Streep was awarded the Palme d’Or after a moving speech by Juliette Binoche, and Greta Gerwig (director of Barbie) was appointed President of the jury, six years after the last female jury president Cate Blanchett, in 2018. The HardWear collection says it all in its name and in its polished smooth and geometric lines. How could a jewellery collection be more perfect to echo both femininity and power.

To find out more about our jewellery valuation service, call us on 01883 722736 or email [email protected]

Jewellery Remodelling and Rediscovering Lost Treasures

Posted on June 4, 2024November 11, 2024 by Rachel Doerr

In an age where sustainability reigns as a paramount concern, the world of luxury is undergoing a profound transformation. Amidst this shift, an ancient practice finds renewed relevance: jewellery remodelling. Beyond mere aesthetics, this artful process breathes new life into forgotten treasures, championing environmental stewardship while indulging in the opulence of the past.

For those unsure of where to begin their jewellery remodelling odyssey, fear not – expert guidance from professionals like Lottie Leigh awaits. With a refined process honed over time, clients are gently ushered through the labyrinth of design possibilities. Even the most uncertain find clarity through collaborative visioning, discovering desires they didn’t know they had. It’s a journey of self-discovery as much as it is about transforming jewels, guided by passion and precision.

A Tradition of Elegance: From Aristocracy to Modernity

The art of jewellery remodelling is steeped in history, tracing its roots back through centuries of opulent adornment. From the courts of European monarchs to the palaces of Asia, this practice has long been a hallmark of aristocratic taste. Notably, the royal family has been a bastion of jewellery remodelling, with illustrious examples found in the treasure troves of the Princess of Wales. Pieces once cherished and now languishing in drawers find new life through thoughtful redesign – a testament to the enduring allure of sustainable luxury.

The Digital Canvas: Bringing Dreams to Life with CAD/3D Design

Innovation meets tradition in Lottie Leigh’s digital atelier, where dreams take shape with unparalleled precision, all driven by you. Here’s how Lottie facilitates this process: Through the marvels of CAD/3D design, you, as the client, assume full control, meticulously crafting every detail of your envisioned piece. Imagine this: a 360-degree image displayed on a screen, granting you the ability to explore and refine your creation to perfection.

But it doesn’t end there. Once your design is finalised, Lottie employs 3D printing technology to materialise it. This means you can not only see but also physically try on your design, ensuring it aligns seamlessly with your style and preferences. After all, being able to see and try on the design before anything is made is paramount. How can you truly know you love something without experiencing it firsthand?

This transformative tool not only streamlines the design process but also transcends geographical barriers, enabling seamless remote collaboration from inception to completion. It’s a modern twist on an ancient art, where imagination knows no bounds.

From Old to New: Trading Unworn Treasures for Fresh Beginnings

For those seeking to breathe new life into dormant jewels, an option exists to trade and upgrade unworn gemstones. Whether it’s diamonds, sapphires, or emeralds or other precious gems, these forgotten treasures find new purpose in bespoke creations. This exchange not only revitalises collections but minimizes environmental impact, aligning with the ethos of sustainable luxury. It’s a journey of transformation – a testament to the timeless allure of reinvention.

In the tapestry of luxury, jewellery remodelling stands as a beacon of sustainability and elegance – a testament to the enduring allure of heirloom treasures and the boundless creativity of human ingenuity. From the hallowed halls of royalty to the ateliers of modern artisans, this artful practice bridges past and present, leaving an indelible mark on both history and the future. As we embark on this odyssey of remembrance and renewal, may each jewel shine brightly, a testament to the timeless union of luxury and sustainability.

Doerr Dallas are delighted to have Lottie share her knowledge and expertise with us and our client base. Many of us have pieces gifted to us by our family members that are sitting in drawers that sadly we do not wear as fashion changes, so having an option to redesign is wonderful.

It is always important to remember that once you have ‘redesigned’ a piece of jewellery the need for re-valuing becomes more important. At the moment, with jewellery prices on the high street increasing; the price of gold going up daily, we are recommending to our clients to update their jewellery valuations if their current valuation was over two years ago.

To arrange a jewellery valuation give us a call on 01883 722736 or email us on [email protected]