Caring For Your Jewellery

Posted on October 9, 2020August 22, 2024 by Mary Waterfall

The way people approach jewellery care can be very diverse. Some people constantly wear their jewellery and don’t even think to remove their diamond rings when gardening or kneading dough to make bread. Other people take their rings off all the time – to wash their hands, do the washing up etc, often with husbands shouting in the background ‘Where have you left them this time!!’
In my opinion, jewellery should be worn and enjoyed. It should be a source of pleasure and not locked away in a box or safe all the time for fear it may get dirty or damaged. I often get asked about the best way to clean jewellery, so I have included some advice and other tips in this article in the hope that somebody finds it useful.

Image of commercial jewellery cleaning solution

Jewellery cleaning bath

I usually advise people to soak their jewellery in warm soapy water and then give it a scrub over with a soft toothbrush. You can buy jewellery cleaner at most jewellers which is just as effective. Some people swear by soaking it in gin! I have to say I have not tried that one and can think of better things to do with a glass of gin!

It’s amazing how much dirt is attracted to the surface of diamonds and gems. Earrings that are constantly worn can collect a build-up of ‘ear cheese’ to the reverse, which will also have an impact on the way light interacts with the gemstones and consequently with their brilliance and sparkle. In these incidences a cocktail stick is useful in addition to the soapy water. I often have to clean jewellery in order to be able to grade and assess the quality of the gemstones. My clients are usually delighted at the renewed sparkle it brings.

Ear Cheese!

Ultrasonic cleaners use sound waves to break down the dirt that accumulates on the surface of jewellery. However, it is not safe to put all gem stones in them. Softer, more delicate stones can be damaged by the heat and vibrations of an ultrasonic. These include emerald, opal, tanzanite, lapis, amber and other organic stones. Gemstones that have been treated to enhance their colour and clarity can also be damaged by an ultrasonic.
Pearls are very soft and delicate and may partially dissolve if cleaned with an ultrasonic. It is best to wipe pearls with a soft cloth and never use alcohol or chemicals on them. It is worth remembering to spray perfume before you put on your pearl necklace, rather than spraying the perfume on the pearls.

Do ‘the tap test’ at least once a month

Another important thing to check on a regular basis is that the gemstones are secure in their settings. I have recently heard quite a few horror stories of how significant sized diamonds have fallen out and been lost. I recommend people do ‘the tap test’ at least once a month. All you do is hold the piece of jewellery securely, close to your ear and lightly tap on it. If you can hear any rattling the stones are probably loose in their setting and in need of attention. It’s also a good practice to check the fittings on necklaces and bracelets are secure as it may have implications on your insurance cover if they are not. At Doerr Dallas Valuations these checks form part of our valuation procedure.

Graff Jewellery, Following a Passion

Posted on July 1, 2020August 19, 2024 by Mary Waterfall

The House of Graff approach making jewellery from a slightly different angle than their more traditional rivals. For them it is all about the gemstones themselves. As they say on their website:
‘Imagine dedicating your life to discovering the world’s most remarkable diamonds and gemstones, a treasure hunt that takes you to all corners of the globe, in search of these elusive wonders. This quest has consumed the Graff family ever since the House was founded almost 60 years ago, and continues to do so today’

The story behind Graff is one of vision, determination and focus. Laurence Graff did what we all should do in life: he followed his passion, dared to dream big and believed in himself.

The Graff Lesedi La Rona Diamond

He started out working as an apprentice in a workshop in Hatton Garden when he was 15 years old. It is said that naysayers tried to discourage him but Graff didn’t listen. He believed he was born to work with diamonds. He not only worked with them, he studied them and seemed to develop an innate understanding of all gemstones. In 1960, aged 24 he founded Graff diamonds and within a couple of years two shops had opened in London. He took his stunning jewellery creations around the world to exhibitions and to showcase to potential clients in their palaces and private yachts. Graff soon began to develop a global reputation and his pieces became highly sought after. There are now over forty shops worldwide and Laurence Graff is said to have handled more important diamonds than any other ‘diamantaire’ this century.

What makes Graff jewellery so special is that they pride themselves on being part of the whole process of jewellery making. From the responsible sourcing of beautiful gem crystals to the meticulous cutting and polishing to optimise their colour and brilliance. With their incredible combination of pioneering technology and age old jewellery making techniques their designers and craftspeople create sculptural works of art. It is all about perfection. As Laurence Graff said himself:
‘No stage is bypassed. No shortcuts are taken. Only perfection matters.’

It’s such a treat to look into a Graff shop window because there is always a dazzling display. They have handled some of the rarest, the largest and most beautiful gems in existence, encompassing them in magical jewellery designs and really honouring these wonders of nature.

Last year they unveiled The Graff Lesedi La Rona Diamond, the world’s largest square emerald cut diamond weighing 302.37cts. It is the largest highest colour and clarity diamond ever certificated by the GIA. It took 18 months to extract and sculpt this record breaking gem from the 1,109ct rough crystal.

Other amazing gems in their collection include the Golden Empress, an intense yellow cushion cut diamond weighing 132.55cts and the Graff Pink, is a vivid pink, internally flawless diamond of 23.88cts.

Graff’s philosophy is the same across all of their jewellery collections. As a jewellery valuer it’s a privilege to be able to examine and appraise such beautiful creations. It comes as no surprise that the price of such jewels continues to rise.

Ruby and diamond earrings and pendant from The Lotus Collection. Originally purchased in 2015 for £102,750. To replace them today would cost £128,500

Earlier this year I was lucky enough to value these stunning ruby and diamond earrings and pendant from The Lotus Collection. They were originally purchased in 2015 for £102,750. To replace them today would cost £128,500. That’s quite a significant increase over a five year period. When was the last time your jewellery was professionally valued? Do the values on your spreadsheet really reflect the increase in the price of gold, diamonds and coloured gems, not to mention the rise in manufacturing costs? Or is the figure just a random percentage increase which may lead to a shortfall in compensation in the event of loss? Surely it’s not worth the risk, especially when it comes to such magnificent pieces as these.

Is it Time to Update Your Jewellery Insurance Valuation?

Posted on June 27, 2020August 19, 2024 by James Lowe

A pair of platinum and diamond ‘Victoria’ ear studs

We have chosen four items of jewellery from four of the top manufacturing brands – items that have been in production virtually unchanged for nearly 20 years – unchanged that is except for the price to demonstrate how important a regular jewellery insurance valuation is!

The price of gold in 2003 was about $450 per ounce and it’s about $1510 per ounce today having peaked around 2012 at $1750 per ounce – so the roughly 350% rise in bullion price over the period in question is a price increase factor but a surprisingly small one in gem set pieces like these. The Cartier ring is quite a chunky piece, but its basic bullion value today is probably about £400 as opposed to approximately £125 in 2003. OK, the VAT rate has risen from 17.5% to 20% in the same period but again that’s had a pretty small effect on the retail price, so that leaves gem stone prices, manufacturing costs and retail profit mark ups as the main ‘culprits’ for the 2.5/3 times price increases.

Van Cleef and Arpels.

An 18 carat yellow gold and mother o’pearl 20 motif Vintage Alhambra necklace.
2004 £6,210
2012 £10,800
2021 £13,700

Diamond prices for good commercial grade stones which these top manufacturing brands would use have largely stalled over the past few years; it’s only the highest quality and rare coloured stones which hit the headlines with their huge prices. And we’re all waiting to see what the effect on retail prices will be when the full impact of the introduction of synthetic diamonds is felt. Also to be taken into account is the effect that internet has had on diamond prices. There are numerous well-established and reliable web sites making available to all millions of unmounted stones at basically ‘trade prices’ (plus VAT) and most with recognised laboratory certificates. The ‘closed shop’ trade only which has prevailed in the jewellery business for centuries is breaking down. The coloured stone market is swamped with cheap, very heavily treated and colour enhanced rubies, sapphires and emeralds that come mainly from the Far East. Another factor is the huge increase in the use of coloured stones that 20 years ago would have been classified as ‘semi-precious’ but are now appearing at serious stone prices. The stones that have shown a huge increase in price over the past 10 or so years have been natural untreated sapphires, rubies and emeralds – but the stones have to have an independent laboratory certificate stating they are natural colour and untreated to come in to this category. A few exceptional stones of this type – mainly in pretty 1920/1940’s period pieces – have fetched more per carat than decent comparable size commercial grade diamonds.

Cartier.

An 18 carat white gold, diamond and emerald Panthere ring
2003 £26,000
2010 £42,100
2021 £73,500

Manufacturing and jewellery workshop costs in Europe have certainly risen sharply over the past 20 years – as anyone who has had to have jewellery items repaired will know. Nearly all items are still hand made or finished so the cost of making up of jewellery is a big factor in the resulting retail price. The exception to this being the type of items available from online sites and lower grade retailers that are mass produced in the Far and Middle East – usually pretty poor-quality workmanship and poor-coloured stones. The second-hand and auction market for jewellery of this type is very weak – so don’t expect to cover the cost of your Far Eastern travels if you try to sell your purchases back in the UK.

Chopard.

A pair of 18 carat white gold and diamond ‘Happy Diamond’ drop earrings.
2003 £1,875
2011 £3,120
2021 £4,290

Profit marks up are a big variable – about 30 years ago when I was first involved with jewellery the tacitly accepted mark-up was to double the cost price and add VAT. Now, for a retail shop mark-up can be a whopping 300% to 350% plus VAT. But don’t be too harsh on the retailer – he has frightening fixed overheads and outgoings, and jewellery can be slow moving stock. Also, some jewellery and watch manufacturers do dictate a fixed retail price to the shop for their products. But it’s always worth a little haggle!!

Tiffany.

A pair of platinum and diamond ‘Victoria’ ear studs
2003 £3,100
2010 £4,925
2021 £8,775

If you had bought any of the four illustrated items back in the very early 2000’s at these prices and had applied an across the board annual percentage increase to cover insurance you might well have ended up in trouble in the event of a claim due to the variable cost factor increases. We recommend a review of a jewellery insurance valuation every 3 years. A desktop revaluation is fully acceptable within this timeframe, but a complete revaluation at 5 years especially as the valuation would include a close examination of the condition of claws, clasps and links, is something more and more insurers and brokers now insist on.

I’m afraid I must end on a cautionary few lines. Most of the big brand names like the ones above suffer from faking and copying. Allegedly more Van Cleef and Arpels Alhambra jewellery has been made in the Middle and Far East than in France!!. All the brands we have illustrated are meticulous in their marking and all their products will have a brand name and in most cases also reference and individual serial numbers, so if you’re shopping for some big name goodies on your Eastern travels be sure to take a good magnifying glass with you!

Millions of Years Old or 5 Week Petri Dish Diamonds – Can You Tell The Difference?

Posted on July 23, 2019August 15, 2024 by James Lowe

Laboratory-grown diamonds have been around for about 20 years but they have always been more expensive than the natural product and some have appeared in very unnatural colours. Techniques have improved and will continue to do so and prices have therefore dropped considerably.

De Beers have just launched their own brand of laboratory diamonds called their ‘Lightbox’ range – and are building a new factory in Oregon with a production target of 500,000 carats a year. They have indicated a retail price of $200 for a ¼ carat and $800 for a 1 carat stone which, despite sounding low, will still provide them with a larger profit margin than for their natural products. A reasonable ¼ carat natural stone would retail for £500 + today in the UK and a reasonable 1 carat natural stone from about £3500.

There are 2 very ‘high tec’ processes which can grow the diamond from a pure carbon ‘seed’ to over a carat in weight in about 5 weeks as opposed to the natural product which takes millions of years deep in the bowels of the earth. Man-made stones are not all totally flawless; internal flaws in natural stones are normally specks of uncrystallised carbon, whereas in man-made stones the flaws are caused by slight production glitches and variations in conditions can influence the colour and clarity qualities.

Laboratory grown diamonds

De Beers have said that they will laser mark every stone they produce, then ticket and retail it accordingly. The question is, will all producers and retailers be as honest and transparent? Another consideration is the practice of ‘diamond sights’, which take place during the early stages of the production of a piece of diamond jewellery. This is where a few very select bulk diamond buyers are offered large quantities of stones in huge ‘lots’, by the big diamond suppliers. Recently in India, a ‘sight’ was found to include only 10% natural against 90% man-made stones – with no indication from the supplier that this was the case.

Will these laboratory-grown stones drag the price of natural stones down or will it be an opportunity to promote their natural qualities and increase prices? Despite advertising to the contrary, diamonds are not that rare and although some new mines have opened in Middle Africa there have been no major new diamond field discoveries since the ones in Canada nearly 20 years ago. De Beers calculate that there are only about 50 established legitimate diamond mines operating throughout the world. They predict that the effect of relatively cheap man-made diamonds on stone prices in general could mean the number of producing mines could drop by half in the next twenty years.

Currently a first-time engagement ring buyer looking for a 2-carat diamond ring will see a sparkling man-made single stone at £1500 and a visually identical natural stone at £7500. Most will buy on price in my opinion, but I sincerely hope I’m wrong. The problem for retailers, manufacturers and of course valuers is that these man-made stones are real diamonds – ie pure carbon – and will test as such when examined by hand held diamond testing machines.

So, with this size of price gap, for both the insured and the insurer, it is going to be very important to be as sure as possible about the stone’s origins. The type of inclusions (flaws) in a natural stone do look different from those in a man-made specimen so that will help when making a judgement. However, the age of the piece and its ‘family’ history will also prove helpful guidance factors. When appraising client’s new jewellery, the need to see a certificate and receipt from the supplier stating the stones’ origins or even better an independent laboratory certificate for the principal stones, is becoming increasingly more important to both valuers and insurers.

Colorless gem cut from diamond grown by chemical vapor deposition

Currently, the GIA (Gemmological Institute of America) which is the most recognised laboratory worldwide is saying that it will carry out stone inspections and will state if a stone is natural or man-made. In the case of a man-made piece they will state the carat weight, but they will not – at this stage – classify its colour or clarity. The other main laboratories like HRD and IGI have not yet made their positions clear but I would think they would follow GIA’s position. It is to be noted that there have been quite a few new ones emerging in the Middle and Far East, out of which have come some rather disturbing stories about the accuracy of their classifications.

Our recommendation is to stick to the well known and established laboratories. It is claimed that, say a 1 carat stone, E colour and VS1 clarity with a GIA certificate could be worth 10% more than an almost identical stone with a less high-profile laboratory certificate. However, unfortunately GIA do not have a UK laboratory currently.

The diamond trading market has changed enormously over the past 20 years with De Beers no longer in virtual ‘sole control’ and the Canadians and the Russians going their own way in marketing their diamonds. The monthly diamond Rapaport and Index reports, which list the average trade prices in US dollars of millions of loose diamonds of all sizes and qualities on offer throughout the world, are still used by the trade as their base point.

Making synthetic diamonds through high pressure

I think it’s too early to be certain which way the market will go. There are obviously wider and more general factors such as the economy and politics which may also have an impact, but for sure there’s uncertainty and nervousness in some areas of the market. The fact that De Beers have committed to their own production of stones, together with their prediction that the relative ‘cheapness’ of the man-made stones could halve mining and production of natural stones in the next 20 years, gives an indication of where they foresee the market heading. The other side of the coin is that in that situation natural mined stones will become rarer and rarer therefore the prices will rise.
In conclusion, the need for regular valuations of your diamonds is becoming increasingly more important.