The Perfect Jewellery Gift for Valentine’s Day: Iconic Pieces They’ll Love

Posted on February 5, 2025February 6, 2025 by Helen Doyle

Valentine’s Day is celebrated annually on 14th February and has a surprisingly complex and layered history, blending ancient Roman traditions with Christian beliefs and medieval romance.

By the Victorian era, Valentine’s Day became a widely celebrated occasion, with flowers becoming common traditions. Today, Valentine’s Day is a global holiday expressing love and affection through various gestures and celebrations. There are also variations of the holiday including Galentine’s when one can celebrate friendships.

However you choose to celebrate, there is no getting away from the fact that it is fast approaching. With that in mind I am here to provide you with some expert guidance on how to choose the best items of jewellery this Valentine’s, for the one you love.

Tiffany & Co.

Arguably the most romantic of jewellers in the world, we couldn’t write about Valentine’s Day without mentioning Tiffany & Co., particularly a Tiffany & Co. engagement ring.

In 1887, Charles Lewis Tiffany, founder of Tiffany and Co., acquired an exceptional fancy yellow diamond from a mine in South Africa and it is known as The Tiffany diamond. It has been displayed in various settings throughout its history, with its most notable appearance as a pendant on a diamond necklace worn by Audrey Hepburn during a promotion of Breakfast at Tiffany’s in 1961.

The diamond, originally weighing 287.42 carats in its rough form, was sent to Paris where Tiffany’s chief gemmologist, Dr. George Frederick Kunz, cut the fancy yellow diamond into a beautiful, brilliant cushion-cut. It was here where Tiffany’s remarkable association with exquisite diamonds began.

Nowadays Tiffany & Co. is known to produce the most iconic engagement rings in the world, with the most popular style being The Tiffany Setting, distinguished by its 6 prongs/claws. This arrangement elevates the diamond well above the band allowing maximum light to enter the stone from all angles, therefore enhancing the diamond’s natural brilliance and sparkle and minimizing the amount of metal covering the stone. It is also held on a simple plain band ensuring that the diamond remains the centrepiece. Sales of the Tiffany engagement ring equate for 26% of their total sales. This remarkable success can be attributed to the iconic status of the brand, particularly the legendary Tiffany Setting introduced in 1886.

The price of a Tiffany Setting ring ranges anywhere from a few thousand up to six figure sums depending on the quality of the diamond.

The 1.65ct diamond single stone ring above has an insurance value of £75,000

Cartier Love bracelet

Nothing says love like a Cartier love bracelet. Created in 1969 by Italian jewellery designer Aldo Cipullo for Cartier, the bracelet was born as a unisex ‘modern handcuff’ with Cartier making the radical decision to leave the functional or decorative screws visible.

Its oval shape means it sits tight around the wearer’s wrist, and its physically screwed on to signify the permanence of true love, since two people are needed to secure the screws. The Love bracelet has become a symbol of love and commitment due to this design.

Today the bracelet is just as popular and it is rumoured that New York hospitals keep mini Love screwdrivers on the wards, in case they need to remove the bracelet in an emergency.

Its longevity and success is down to the design, according to Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s director of image, style and heritage. “For me, the Love bracelet is a success worldwide since it was created because of a combination of many different dimensions – first design, and second, symbolism. The design is linked to its meaning, because the screw, is the meaning of the object and the symbolic value is immediately visible through the very simple idea,” he explains. “The Love bracelet has become a permanent staple in modern style.”

Nowadays, the Cartier Love bracelet is seen on the wrists of many famous celebrities, including the Duke and Duchess of Sussex sporting matching Love bracelets on the cover of TIME magazine in 2020, while Meghan has been spotted wearing hers on numerous occasions over the years.

This year Cartier have released a brand-new Love Bracelet with a width of 4.8mm it the medium size with a slimmer and thicker versions available. This new version has an insurance value of £5,850.

Van Cleef and Aprels Alhambra

The Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra collection is seen as a symbol of enduring femininity, luck and love. It was in 1968 when the brand’s designers were captivated by the four-leaf clover motif and incorporating Art Deco influences, they created the iconic Alhambra pendant, with the initial design featuring a stylised quatrefoil shape set with mother-of-pearl.

It quickly gained popularity and over the years, the collection has expanded to encompass various interpretations of the Alhambra theme: bracelets, necklaces, earrings, rings and even watches, all adorned with gemstones and precious metals like mother-of-pearl, onyx, carnelian, turquoise, and diamonds.

De Beers Talisman

The De Beers Talisman collection is a line of fine jewellery that prominently features rough diamonds, highlighting their raw beauty by juxtaposing them with polished diamonds, creating a unique aesthetic that celebrates the natural, unrefined quality of rough stones, while still showcasing De Beers’ expertise in diamond cutting and setting.

The collection often utilises their “serti poinçon” technique to encapsulate the rough diamonds in the metal, giving them a distinct appearance.

The unisex collection is enjoyed by men and women.

Ruby

Rubies have been treasured throughout history for their beauty and symbolic meaning of passion, love, power, protection, and good luck. They feature prominently in royal crowns, ancient artifacts, and works of art. Fine rubies are gemstones prized for their vibrant red hue, intense brilliance, and enduring beauty.

They belong to the corundum mineral family, which also includes sapphires. Their mesmerizing red colour comes from trace amounts of chromium in their chemical structure. The most desirable rubies exhibit a vivid “pigeon’s blood” red – a rich, saturated hue with a hint of blue undertones. Other shades include purplish-red, orangish-red, and brownish-red, but the “pigeon’s blood” remains the rarest and most sought-after. It is the colour, clarity and origin which can contribute to a rubies value along with a lack of any lab treatment. Large fine natural examples with good colour can command very high prices.

Locations, like Myanmar (Burma), Madagascar, and Mozambique, are known for their exceptional quality.

No matter what gift you give or recieve this Valentine’s Day, ensure that you get it accurately valued for insurance purposes by calling us on 01883 722736 or emailing us on [email protected].

A little light on the diamond markets

Posted on January 29, 2025January 29, 2025 by Aurélia Turrall

The price of diamonds is said to be tumbling and crashing with major players such as De Beers even cancelling sight holdings over the summer due to poor demand. And yet… When I scroll through the big brands, all I see are numbers going up, up and up! So, let’s not panic too quickly and think that all our investments – that is if you’re lucky enough to have been able to invest in jewellery, watches and diamonds – are all collapsing and you’ve lost everything.

The main issue here, and seems to be across the board, is a form of misinformation. The media is quick to react to market trends but doesn’t take into consideration other factors that apply when jewellery is made and then sold. To make a piece of jewellery one needs the raw material, diamonds and gold for example, along with workforce. The only factor in this equation which has dropped are indeed the diamonds. But all other costs keep climbing.

So why has the diamond market slowed down? Which market are we even talking about? Has the jewellery market slowed with the depreciation of diamond?

It does appear that both synthetic and natural diamond markets have weakened. With more companies offering the cheaper option to natural diamonds, it’s no wonder that the synthetic diamond market has plummeted, even with the best marketing. Giant De Beers had indeed noticed the trend would not pick up and decided, in June 2024, to close its synthetic diamond branch “LightBox lab-grown diamond”.

Lab-grown diamonds have almost become synonym of fashion jewellery and De Beers’ strategy was to give natural diamonds their spark back and focus on high-end diamond jewellery. Both markets have slowed, with the synthetic diamond market doing so even more than the natural diamond market. Is it a bad thing? That’s open to discussion: making diamonds more accessible and traceable than natural, but robbing customers of the experience of getting to buy a piece of natural history. There are endless arguments for and against.

But still, why has the natural diamond market also slowed down? That is in part due to sluggish Chinese demand and worldwide geo-political issues. However, the best diamonds, D, Flawless, are still in high demand, as are the bigger carat diamonds. The larger the carat weight the bigger the jump in percentage increase. There is a huge difference between a 1 carat diamond and a 1.50cts diamond for example. With all criteria remaining the same, the increase can be more than 50% per carat depending on the retailer. De Beers are currently retailing a 1ct brilliant-cut diamond G, VS2, for £15,800 and a 1.50cts with identical colour and clarity for £34,200.

Other than for solitaire diamonds of a certain colour and clarity (for example H/I coloured diamonds with a clarity under VS2), when it comes to completed jewellery pieces, the prices do not seem to be declining either. Why? Because couples are still getting engaged, young people are still having “big” birthdays commemorated with diamond gifts. Whatever the reason, diamonds maintain their desirability and durability.

A pair of Tiffany & Co. Victoria diamond earrings have gone from £3,100 in 2003, £4,925 in 2010, £8,775 in 2021 and up to a current value of £9,125.

It still seems good business and good investment to be buying jewellery and diamonds. Though one might need to hold on to a few middle market diamonds until the values pick up again, when it comes to branded pieces, such as De Beers or Tiffany & Co. as we have cited, it still seems to be a safe investment with return on investment definitely worth the waiting for. With values of signed pieces creeping up and diamond markets fluctuating as do the insurance values. Be sure to keep get your valuations updated as you could be under-insured and very possibly over-insured too.

Make Mine a Marquise! The Fancy Cut Set to Shine in 2025

Posted on January 22, 2025January 23, 2025 by Liz Bailey

Whilst 2024 was undoubtedly the year of the oval engagement ring, 2025 looks to feature the marquise cut much more prominently!

According to the Rapaport Diamond Report Volume 47, no. 48 – marquise cut diamonds are benefitting from an “excellent market – the most expensive fancy shape – supported by shortages.” According to the list, these exclusive shapes can currently price in at up to 15% more than their shorter fancy cut counterparts – suggesting that these elongated fancy cuts are set for a good year ahead.

Celebrity influence naturally plays a role in the demand for fancy shapes. Selena Gomez’s engagement ring from Benny Blanco in December 2024 features a principal marquise cut diamond. Paying homage to her 2015 song “Good for You” in which she compares herself to a marquise cut diamond, this ring features a sizeable marquise cut stone accented beautifully with a round brilliant cut diamond band.

History of the Marquise Cut

The marquise shape is an elongated oval with pointed ends. This distinctive navette shape diamond dates to 18th century France and King Louis XV, who commissioned a stone fashioned in the shape of his lover Marquise de Pompadour’s lips. The marquise cut diamond was born!

Value Factors of Marquise Cut Diamonds

Universally with natural diamonds, of course the famous 4 Cs (colour, clarity, cut, carat weight) are the key determining factors for value with these stones. The better the colour grade either on the colourless or fancy colour scale, with minimal inclusions, excellent cut grade and maximum carat weight are all attributes of the most valuable stones.

Another incredibly important factor to consider particularly for elongated fancy shapes such as the marquise cut is the proportion, and more specifically, the length to width ratio! This ratio is deduced by dividing the length by the width – and much is due to personal preference however owing to the alignment of the facets, a slight deviation of the LWR or cut grade can result in undesirable optical effects such as the dreaded ‘bow tie’ (a dark shadow to the centre of the stone). This visually heavy optical effect of course not only minimises the brilliance of the stone but has a negative impact on the value.

Buyer Beware!

Above is an image of a 1ct marquise cut lab grown diamond, currently available to purchase online at only £365. As seen in the past year, the price of production for lab grown diamonds and therefore their subsequent retail prices are at an all-time low, with long term valuations set to look even lower and resale value almost negligible for synthetic diamonds.

To compare as closely as possible, 1ct natural marquise cut diamonds with identical colour, clarity and cut grades, fluorescence and similar length-width ratio to the above lab grown stone (D, VS1, Excellent, none, 1.9-2.3) are retailing currently between £3,500 and £8,290 on a reputable online retailers website.

This massive discrepancy in prices and of course continued value for natural stones is not to be taken lightly – we would recommend purchasing your natural diamonds from a reputable source, with notable laboratory certification, and of course, ensuring that in the long run you have adequate and continued cover through a thorough insurance valuation from our specialist team.

Inside the Record-Breaking Sale of the Anglesey Necklace

Posted on November 15, 2024November 22, 2024 by Liz Bailey

Sotheby’s Royal & Noble Jewels Sale took place in Geneva on Wednesday 13^th November. This historic sale presented a spectacular selection of historic fine jewellery, with provenance relating to several royal and noble families, including Tsar Ferdinand of Bulgaria and his family, Countess Mona Bismarcak, King Umberto II of Italy, the Ducal House of Bavaria and the Princely Thurn und Taxis family. Featuring 174 lots, this auction featured a stunning selection of tiaras, necklaces, rings, suites, cufflinks, tie pins, cigarette cases, seals, pocket watches and many more jewels with illustrious provenance.

The Anglesey Necklace

Designed as a pair of old cushion-shaped diamond tassels connected by three rows of collet-set old cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds, length approximately 670mm, fitted case.

Undoubtedly the most anticipated lot of the sale was the Anglesey Necklace. This highly important and historic jewel is an incredibly rare survivor of the Georgian court, set with a breathtaking 300 carats of diamonds and crafted with hugely innovative techniques for the time. An outstanding jewel to be in private hands, this piece has been known as the Anglesey Necklace, owned by the Paget family for centuries, thence a private collector, and offered for auction as the centrepiece to this historical sale. Estimated at 1,600,000 – 2,200,000 CHF (£1.4 to 1.9 million), this significant Georgian necklace finally sold at 3,550,000 CHF (£3,154,246.00).

Formerly in the collection of the Marquess of Anglesey, the Anglesey Necklace has featured in two important jewellery exhibitions of the 20^th century, first in 1959 as part of The Ageless Diamond Loan exhibition in London, sitting alongside many famous Royal and aristocratic diamond jewels including the Williamson Pink Diamond and the brooch set with the Cullinan III and IV diamonds belonging to Queen Elizabeth II. Twenty years later in 1979, the necklace featured in the American Museum of Natural History’s Bicentennial Exhibition.

A Marie Antoinette Connection? The lore of the Anglesey Necklace

The lore surrounding this jewel carried a huge significance and of course an impact on the subsequent value. Although there is no formal or documented evidence of a connection between the Anglesey necklace and the jewel that sparked the French Revolution, there are of course compelling factors that could plausibly link the two.

The sheer grandeur and scale of this piece narrows down the few noble ladies who could have owned this jewel. Set with nearly 300 carats of rare, Golconda diamonds (the South African mines were not discovered until 1867) and encased within unconventional, innovative and cutting-edge open back settings to allow the full radiance of these valuable stones.

There are no documents detailing this piece in the collection of the Paget family until the later part of the 19^th century. From its creation in the late 18th century, this is a monumental jewel to not be featured in inventories and documents of the time. As Sotheby’s point out,

“it is unclear exactly how the Paget family came in possession of this diamond jewel, a link to the first Marquess seems plausible given its date.”

In 1785, a diamond necklace created for Marie Antoinette was stolen in Paris. Records show that six months later, a London jeweller William Gray purchased 300 diamonds from the Marie Antoinette necklace totalling 600 stones. Stylistically, the tassels on the Anglesey necklace and the sketches of Marie Antoinettes necklaces do appear incredibly similar, which adds to this compelling tale.

More recently, in American-born British conservative politician and society figure, Sir Henry “Chips” Channon’s diary published in 2022, there is reference to this seeming connection. He mentions a part of Queen Marie Antoinette’s infamous necklace,

“at least two ropes of it, the rest, according to history, was broken up before the French Revolution but I believe the Anglesey tassels, which Marjorie sometimes wears, are a part of it.”

Sir Cecil Beaton photographed the Anglesey Necklace, as it was then known, being worn as a négligé by the glamorous and sophisticated Marjorie Paget, Marchioness of Anglesey, during George VI’s coronation 1937. The necklace was also worn at Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953.

Irrespective of the alleged connection to the French Revolution, the Anglesey Necklace is a rare survivor of an incredibly opulent Georgian Court. Designed to be worn in many ways, knotted at the neck, worn as a négligé, draped over the back, or even as a belt, this superb diamond necklace is without a doubt “one of the most outstanding Georgian jewels” (Andres White Correal – Head of Royal and Noble Jewels, Chairman, Sotheby’s Jewellery), and a historic result at auction for jewellery of the period.

To find out more about our jewellery valuation service by calling us on 01883 722736 or emailing [email protected]

Exploring The Boodles National Gallery Collection

Posted on November 6, 2024November 11, 2024 by Aurélia Turrall

I was recently privileged enough to handle a very unique piece of jewellery by Boodles: The Boodles National Gallery Collection’s Play of Light Lake Keitele bangle.

In light of one of the nation’s favourite museum’s 200^th anniversary, Boodles has created a special National Gallery Collection of jewellery. The National Gallery is considered one of the world’s greatest art collections and open its doors in 1824, after the British government purchased 38 paintings from the heirs of John Julius Angerstein that same year.

The museum now holds paintings by Botticelli, Caravaggio, Cézanne, Constable, Ingres, Holbein, Seurat, Titian…to name but a few. But it wasn’t always a guarantee that these masterpieces would be remain within the collection, safely. During the Blitz, the collection was distributed in safe houses, until it found its way to a Welsh slate mine, where the artwork stayed between 1941-45. When the bombing was less intense, the museum decided to show one painting a month. This is the origin of the museum’s current Picture of the Month. The picture was taken down every evening for safe storage in the museum’s underground strong room.

Now, 200 years after the museum opened, Boodles have celebrated the extraordinary collection by creating a unique line of high jewellery inspired by the artists and their creations.

The paintings have generated four specific themes around which the jeweller “plays” with: Perspective, Brushstrokes, Motherhood and Play of Light.

Perspective

Inspired by Canaletto’s view of Venice and mastering of perspective, Boodles have created the Perspective Collar set with 12 main Ashoka diamonds weighing 9.04cts total, and 14.29cts of remaining diamonds. A jewelled architectural delight, it is mounted in platinum and reflects the Doge’s palace beautifully.

“The Ashoka cut diamond was perfect for Perspective, the vertical lines and unique cut worked so well with the idea of an architectural landscape” says Boodles Director of Design, Rebecca Hawkins.

Brushstroke

For the Brushstroke collection, “we drew on for inspiration [from] the brushstroke technique used by particular artists. We found that within some paintings, such as Van Gogh’s Sunflowers, 1888, the brushstrokes employed were very visible- you could literally see the way in which the paint had been applied to paper. This in turn inspired our Brushstrokes suites.”

The use of aquamarine in this collection is a statement to the use of blue brushstrokes in Cézanne artwork, along with the feminine rose gold and scintillating diamonds, giving this collection a dynamism echoed in his technique.

Motherhood

In Motherhood collection, there is a clear selection of “soft” gems and colours. The pendants, rings and bracelets all use diamonds, but also pink diamonds, and moonstone, where “pear and oval shaped diamonds [are] nestled together, reflecting the idea of an embrace.”

In the Motherhood Aquamarine pendant, the use of aquamarine reminds me of water and of babies in utero, with the moonstone’s shimmering warm colours, all encompassed within the solid and indestructible diamond frame. But of course, it also echoes the Madonna with child. The interpretation is up to the eye of the beholder. This pendant retails for £15,000, while its counterpart in diamond and pink diamond retails for £29,000.

Play of Light

In the fourth collection, Boodles designers concentrated on colour and how the same colour can have many different tones. Just as a diamond can range from D-Z and fancy colours range from Faint to Fancy Deep.

“In our Play of Light collection for example we used different gradients of the same colour diamond or gemstone to reflect the detailed dabs of colours found in the paintings. We used yellow diamonds, which gradually became lighter until they flowed into white diamonds, or soft pastel blues deepening to a darker blue.”

Four main pictures were the base for inspiration: Seurat’s The Morning Walk, Monet’s Water-Lilies, Pierre-August Renoir’s Moulin Huet Bay, Guernsey, and Akseli Gallen-Kallela’s Lake Keitele.

The Play of Light Rose Gold Drop Earrings use a variety of gems, including vari-coloured sapphires, tsavorite garnets (green), vari-cut diamonds and rose gold for added softness and extra shimmer. They retail for £23,500 and are accompanied by a necklace and a bracelet, each retailing at £28,000 and £76,500

The piece in this collection I was lucky enough to discover was inspired Finnish painter Akseli Gallen-Kallela’s Lake Keitele painted in 1905.

“Boodles designers responded to the distinctive zigzag pattern on the water’s surface in Lake Keitele, 1905 by Akseli Gallen-Kallela, now mirrored by rows of marquise cut diamonds.”

In each of the pieces, the reflection of the water is represented with the use of graduated brilliant and marquise-cut diamonds, each serving as a mirror of light, with more or less fire depending on the light. Just as in the painting by Akseli Gallen-Kallela there are white and blue tones but also specs of red and green and yellow. It is the special always varying shimmer of the stones, that make this collection so unique.

The earrings use 2.79cts of marquise-cut diamonds and 1.44cts of round brilliant-cut diamonds. The necklace uses respectively 3.05cts and 0.86cts and the bangle is set with 22 principal marquise-cut diamonds weighing 6.99cts, and 4.59cts of brilliant-cut diamonds. The water’s movement is here “mirrored by rows of marquise cut diamonds to create a mesmerising piece.”

It was also mentioned that the design reminded someone of a DNA chain. Whether you take your inspiration from impressionism art or science, if the result is as beautiful as this collection is then there truly is no limit!

To book your jewellery valuation call us on 01883 722736 or email [email protected]

Celebrating breast cancer awareness with pink ribbon jewellery

Posted on October 4, 2024November 25, 2024 by Aurélia Turrall

As we come to October, I wanted to focus on pink ribbon jewellery to celebrate breast cancer awareness month which runs from 1st – 31st October.

One particular jeweller has created pieces with the aim to wear beautiful, original jewellery with a strong message. David Yurman. This New York jeweller partnered with the Breast Cancer Research Foundation in 2008 and the total of his sale contribution, possible with the sale of such jewels, surpasses the $2.5 million, which equates to over 55,000 hours of funded research.

His collection “Cable Collectibles” ranges from $20 to $1,450. The $20 bracelet is made of pink rubber with a reeded design.

The jeweller has promised on his website that 100% of the net profits from every pink rubber bracelet sold during the month of October will go to BCRF, and David Yurman will also donate $16 of the $20 purchase price from every pink rubber bracelet sold through July 31, 2025.

At the other end of the collection is the Cable Collectibles® Ribbon Chain Bracelet, mounted in rose gold, the chain with lobster clasp, decorated with a reeded bow, pavé-set with 0.09ct of circular-cut pink sapphires. It retails for $1,450.

The matching design is also available as a necklace

Though these sapphires are most likely treated to enhance the colour and perhaps durability, it does not take away from the valuable message and David Yurman’s extraordinary commitment.

Other items of the collection include a pin, and bracelet and necklace mounted in silver, which therefore means are less costly but still set with pink sapphires.

Whilst not many jewellers, if any other than David Yurman, create lines of jewellery with the pink ribbon motif, pink is nonetheless available in a wide range of collections sold by the top brands.

De Beers, for example, sells its Enchanted Lotus pendant in rose gold, diamond and pink enamel for £2,575. It is set with 0.21ct of diamonds, the reverse being almost as pretty as the front.

But if the purse can stretch… quite a bit, a De Beers ring set with a 0.44ct Vivid pink diamond ring within a surround of pink diamonds is also available, for just under £100,000.

If £100,000 is simply not in the budget, then why not choose a pink sapphire ring instead? Tiffany & Co. currently sell a pink sapphire and silver bracelet for £350!

Color by the Yard by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co.

The sapphire weighs 0.08ct and just as with David Yurman’s gems, have most likely has some enhancement. But for that price… Does it matter?

What matters is showing support, in any way shape or form, whether it’s holding a Macmillan coffee morning on the 27th September, or wearing pink rubber bracelets, sapphires, diamonds or enamel, the choice is endless and all are rewarded one way or another.

To find out more about our valuation services, visit www.doerrvaluations.co.uk or call us on 01883 722736.

World’s Second Largest Gem-Quality Diamond Unearthed in Historic Find

Posted on September 26, 2024November 25, 2024 by Liz Bailey

What will happen to the stone that has dominated international headlines for the last month?

The discovery of a 2,492 carat diamond from the Karowe Mine, Botswana in August of 2024 will come as news to very few. This incredible discovery was publicised across every major international news channel following the announcement from Canadian owned corporation Lucara on 21^st August.

Images of the rough diamond filling the palm of a hand, positioned alongside a diminutive golf ball for size reference, as well as videos of the stone being inspected and admired by Botswana’s president Mokgweetsi Masisi have filled news feeds worldwide. Rightly so, this incredible find is the largest gem-quality diamond uncovered since the discovery of the 3,106 carat Cullinan diamond from the Premier No. 2 Mine in Cullinan, South Africa in 1905.

The Cullinan Diamond – a Precedent?

When the largest ever diamond was unearthed nearly 100 years ago, South Africa was still a British colony. The Cullinan was offered for sale in London in 1905 and failed to sell initially. It was purchased in 1907 by the Transvaal Colony government and was subsequently presented as a gift to King Edward VII by Prime Minister Louis Botha.

The 3,106 carat rough stone was sent to Amsterdam to be cut by Joseph Asscher & Co (famed for creating the Asscher cut in 1902). It purportedly took Joseph Asscher four days to prepare the stone to cleave, and eight months to polish the original rough stone into nine large principal stones and ninety-seven small brilliant cuts.

Clockwise from top left: II, I, III, IX, VII, V, IV, VI, VIII.

The yield of the nine largest stones are detailed in size order and the entirety of the collection is housed within the collection of the Crown Jewels as follows:

Cullinan I – otherwise known as the Star of Africa –530.20 carat pear-cut stone. Set in the Sovereign’s Royal Sceptre.

Cullinan II – 317.40 carat cushion-cut stone. Set into the band of the Imperial State Crown.

Cullinan III – 94.40 carat pear-cut stone. Set into Queen Mary’s Crown.

Cullinan IV – 63.60 carat cushion-cut stone. Set into Queen Mary’s Crown.

Cullinan V – 18.80 carat pear-triangular cut stone. Set into Queen Mary’s Crown.

Cullinan VI – 11.50 carat marquise-cut stone. Set into a diamond and emerald necklace, Crown Jewels.

Cullinan VII – 8.80 carat marquise-cut stone. Set into a brooch alongside the Cullinan XIII, Crown Jewels.

Cullinan VIII – 6.80 carat oblong-cut stone. Set into Queen Mary’s Delhi Durbar parure.

Cullinan IX – 4.39 carat pear-cut stone. Set into the Cullinan IX ring, Crown Jewels.

A fair comparison? The Lucara Diamond vs. the Cullinan Diamond

As of January 2024, the Cullinan I diamond alone was purportedly valued at $430 million. However, there are notable differences in these discoveries aside from their size, and the context in which they were unearthed.

Location and Diamond Type: The Lucara Diamond hails from Botswana – featured in Lucara’s press release is a reference to Type IIa diamonds from this source. Type IIa diamonds are incredibly rare, with no measurable impurities such as nitrogen or boron. This lack of impurities results in an exceptional colour and clarity that has long been prized and intrinsically far more valuable than other colourless diamond types. Similarly, the Cullinan diamond was mined from a source known to yield Type IIa diamonds. In both cases, there is no confirmation of diamond type, merely speculation at this stage.

Cutting Techniques – Brilliantly recorded in Matthew Hart’s Diamond: A Journey to the Heart of an Obsession (2002), Joseph Asscher hand polished and faceted the Cullinan diamond, purporting “that when he prepared to cleave the largest diamond ever known … he had a doctor and nurse standing by and when he finally struck the diamond … he fainted dead away”. Advances in technology since the Cullinan’s time have ensured a CAD mapping of possible diamond cuts, and precision laser cutting that remove any chance of human error and also maximise the yield from a crystal.

Different times – It goes without saying that politics and customs are incredibly different nowadays, it is highly likely the diamond will be offered for sale and not be presented to a monarchy! Potential buyers of the stone include the LVMH group, who purchased a 1,758 carat stone from Lucara in 2019 for an undisclosed sum, or Laurence Graff of Graff Diamonds, who purchased the ‘Lesedi La Rona’ 1,109 carat stone from the same mine in 2017 for $53 million.

A contemporary comparison – the Graff ‘Lesedi La Rona’

Above: Laurence Graff inspecting the 1,109 carat Lesedi La Rona

Discovered in November 2015 at the same location as the 2,942 carat diamond in question, the ‘Lesedi La Rona’ weighed 1,109 carats and was named “Our Light” in the Tswana language. At the time, this remarkable find was also the world’s second largest gem-quality diamond to ever have been discovered. Similarly to the Cullinan, the Lesedi La Rona was initially offered for sale at Sothebys in 2016, failing to sell with a reserve of $70 million.

Nevertheless, the Lesedi La Rona piqued the interest of Laurence Graff of the prestigious eponymous Graff diamonds and was purchased in 2017 for $53 million. Speaking of his purchase, Graff said “This was the first time in over 100 years that the chance to cut such a historic stone had presented itself, which was tremendously exciting,..We had an immense duty to cut the very, very best diamond imaginable from the Lesedi La Rona. We had to do justice to its impeccable natural beauty.”

The planning for cutting the Lesedi La Rona was meticulous. The diamond was so large that the team at Graff could not analyse the stone with their existing equipment. A new scanner was built specifically for this stone with custom software to cater for its size and scale. After months of analysis, the plan for cutting and polishing the diamond was agreed, and the cutting of the stone could begin.

It took two years to cut the Lesedi La Rona. The diamond was cut with state-of-the-art lasers and required hundreds of hours for the table facet of the principal stone alone. Polished by Graff’s team, the Lesedi La Rona finally yielded 67 diamonds, including a double record-breaking 302.37 carat square emerald cut – the world’s largest square emerald cut diamond.

This principal diamond was named the Lesedi La Rona, and also holds the world’s record as the largest diamond with the highest colour and clarity ever certified by the GIA, with D colour, and “high clarity.” This stone was unveiled in November 2019, and is still owned by Laurence Graff

The Lesedi La Rona’s sister stone is also a record-breaking diamond. Named ‘The Infinity Diamond’ this stone is a 157.80 carat D colour heart-shaped diamond. It’s the world’s largest heart-shaped diamond of this quality.

Set into Graff’s Twombly tiara, the Infinity Diamond is still in the possession of Graff. The remaining 65 diamonds were offered for sale to Graff’s clientele in 2019, and prices for these pieces have not been published. Ranging from 1 to 26 carats, these stones all bear a GIA report number and ‘Lesedi La Rona’ laser inscription to the girdle.

The fate and value of the 2,942 carat Lucara diamond remains unclear. Speculations in the Financial Times have reported that the stone could be worth upwards of $40 million in today’s market. Who will be the buyer of the stone? And what record breaking and yield maximising configuration of faceted diamonds will be revealed? Perhaps the largest ever pear cut diamond (this would have to beat ‘The Rock’ at 228.31 carats – selling at Christies in 2019 for £17.7 million) or perhaps it will supersede the world records already set by the Lesedi La Rona, with a 303 carat + square emerald cut, or a 158 carat + heart cut. No further information has been released at this time, so we will wait to see the impressive yield that this crystal will produce!

Think Pink – The allure and rarity of pink diamonds

Posted on September 3, 2024November 15, 2024 by Aurélia Turrall

I had the privilege of getting my hands on a pink diamond, though a very brief encounter, it was certainly an enjoyable one. Having valued jewellery for almost fifteen years now, the opportunity to observe and inspect pink diamonds is still a rare occasion. Let alone a pink diamond from the Argyle mine in Australia.

Since their discovery in the early 17th century in India, pink diamonds have also been mined in Brazil, South Africa, Tanzania, Canada, Australia and Russia. It is believed that around 80% of the world’s pink diamonds now originate from the Argyle mine in Kimberley, Western Australia, which sadly closed in 2020. From the mine’s 20 million carat annual output, only 0.1% are classified as pink diamonds. In 2018, the GIA selected a sample of 1,000 pink diamonds graded between 2008 and 2016 and found that 83% weighed less than one carat.

Why are pink diamonds so special?

Unlike blue or yellow diamonds, who get their colour from trace elements such as boron or nitrogen, pink diamonds are pink due to crystal distortion. When nitrogen is contained in a pink diamond, it is generally concentrated along the glide planes of the diamonds.

Other aspects of deformation are involved to create the colour pink and is often the cause for high colour saturation making these diamonds the most expensive diamonds to be sold at auction.

In 1999, De Beers found a 132.5 carat rough diamond, which took two years to cut and polish. This resulted in a 59.60 carat Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid Pink diamond, the largest the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has ever graded with the highest colour and clarity grades from the GIA for pink diamonds.

The Pink Star was sold in Hong Kong in 2017 for HK$553 million, £56 million. That’s almost £1 million per carat.

As with other coloured diamonds, pink diamonds are graded on their colour by the GIA using the classing: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid. Similarly, to other coloured diamonds, Fancy Vivid is the most sought-after colour. In a GIA study conducted in 2022, it was determined that only 2% of pink Type IIa diamonds were graded as Fancy Vivid Pink.

Similar in hue to the Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink diamond I had the pleasure of handling is the spectacular ‘The Spirit of the Rose’. The diamond got its name from Vaslav Nijinky’s legendary ballet, Le Spectre de la rose. The 14.83 carat Fancy Vivid Purple-Pink, Internally Flawless, Type IIa diamond was mined and cut from a 27.85-carat clear pink rough diamond, Russia’s largest pink crystal ever mined and was known as the ‘Nijinksy’.

When one understands all these factors impacting the rarity of such coloured diamonds, it becomes more comprehensible to attribute price tags for such exceptional stones. Nature overwhelms us with its beauty, and sometimes we are lucky enough to spend time observing it.

To find out more about getting a jewellery valuation, contact us here today!

The rise of the ‘Divorce ring’

Posted on August 23, 2024August 29, 2024 by Liz Bailey

A new phenomenon?

A huge jewellery trend of 2024 has been the rise of the ‘divorce rings,’ propelled into the spotlight by none other than supermodel Emily Ratajkowski. Following her divorce from Sebastian Bear-McClard in 2022, she revealed that she had remodelled her ‘toi et moi’ diamond engagement ring into two separate rings via an Instagram post in March of 2024. The images of these two rings were simply captioned “divorce rings,” signalling and representing a transformation in her jewellery to coincide with the transformation taking place in her life. She explained to Vogue, “The rings represent my own personal evolution… I don’t think a woman should be stripped of her diamonds just because she’s losing a man.”

From the original engagement ring, set with pear cut and princess cut diamonds, Emily commissioned designer Alison Lou to create two separate pieces. Firstly, a single stone ring in a yellow gold setting for the pear to be worn on the little finger, and secondly a three stone ring from the princess cut, with additional trapezoid cut diamonds either side in a bi-colour setting. From one original engagement ring, these two complementary dress rings mark a transformational and empowering moment in her life, as she explained to Vogue “Somehow, these rings feel like a reminder that I can make myself happy in ways I never imagined.”

Although a seemingly fresh and somewhat viral idea of 2024 thanks to Emrata’s Instagram post, the repurposing of sentimental jewellery is nothing new. Throughout the early 20th century, wedding bands themselves were altered by jewellers both in America and the United Kingdom to signify a divorce.

It was Chicago-born Mrs Marina Parke who purportedly invented the notion of the ‘divorce ring’ in 1911, when she had her wedding ring from her husband Fred sized down to wear on the little finger of her right hand – she has been quoted to say that as a result “new acquaintances no longer enquire about your husband, and old friends who have not yet heard of the divorce, perceiving the ring, are saved from embarrassing themselves and you by asking awkward questions”.

In the UK, women were recorded as having their wedding bands altered variously – with zigzags cut through, resizing and worn on the little finger. Designs specifically for the little finger followed, including black enamel sections added to former wedding rings, the addition of a broken Cupid’s bow, or simply the word ‘FREE’ inscribed to the inside of the band. Moving into the 1930s, the divorce ring was “quite glamorous, shaped as a circle of diamonds or pearls, interrupted by a coloured gemstone. The breaking of the circle symbolised the severed marriage union.” (The Times).

The act of repurposing and re-wearing sentimental jewellery in this way does certainly add a degree of autonomy and transformation to a piece. There are of course instances in which remodelling jewellery can decrease value – especially when removed from a designer’s setting, altering an antique jewel, or when the heat of the jeweller’s torch poses far too much of a risk to the gem material encased within. In any case, it is highly recommended to seek advice from a specialist, and of course up-to-date valuations for any items to guarantee sufficient cover for your jewellery both before and after any alterations are made.

The Power of the Parure

Posted on July 16, 2024August 9, 2024 by Liz Bailey

The release of series 3 of Bridgerton on Netflix has provided viewers with a visual feast – brightly hued costumes, sensational floral displays, grand balls, outlandish wigs, and of course – some fabulous jewellery! Whilst adapted to the modern -day audience and of course not strictly true to Queen Charlotte’s time, this beautiful display of gem-set jewellery should quite rightly draw attention to the truly amazing pieces produced in the late 18th and early 19th century.

Seen throughout the series and most ostentatiously on Queen Charlotte herself is the parure. Deriving from the French ‘parer’ ‘to adorn,’ the Parure refers to a set of jewels intended to be worn together.

The Bridgerton books by Julia Quinn are set between 1813 and 1827, covering the Regency period and beyond. By this time, parures set with precious and semi-precious stones were worn for court and formal occasions, with an abundance of jewellery at the very height of fashion.

The finest parures and demi-parures would consist of hair ornaments, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, bodice brooches and stick pins set with aquamarine, topaz, citrine and amethyst. Owing to their age, many parts and the frequent remodelling of jewellery over time, complete parures in their original form, with fitted cases are relatively rare and ever-increasing in value.

As seen in the aquamarine example above, fashionable, pastel-coloured gemstones such as aquamarine, pink topaz, and golden topaz were set within richly hued cannetille settings. Particularly sought-after at auction and therefore increasing in value are pink and golden topaz, whether in closed or the later open back settings.

A sub-section of Georgian jewellery that can very frequently be undervalued or even be dismissed as costume jewellery is paste jewellery. Although set with glass instead of crystalline material, this colourful and vibrant jewellery is increasingly sought-after by collectors. Paste is a notoriously soft material, prone to scratches and chips particularly if stored with other jewellery, so survivors of paste jewellery from this time command a premium. As seen with the following two examples, blue paste in particular has been performing incredibly well at auctions, but examples in all colours can be found in jewellery boxes up and down the country!

Rivière necklaces have very much had the spotlight on the latest series of Bridgerton, with the ‘diamond of the season’ Francesca Bridgerton adorning an array of these classically elegant and universally adored necklaces. Set with a wide range of gemstones, from diamonds to agates to cameos, the rivière necklace consists of a gently graduated pattern and continues in popularity to the modern day! As seen in the example below, rivière necklaces from this time period are frequently seen with a hoop surmount to the principal stone, allowing for the addition of a drop pendant. Values can depend upon the age, condition, gemstone identity, saturation, settings and carat weight.

For an up-to-date, confidential valuation of your Bridgerton-era jewellery by our nationwide, specialist team, contact us.