TEFAF Maastricht: The Jewellery & Watches That Stole the Show

Posted on March 20, 2025March 20, 2025 by Liz Bailey

The European Fine Art Foundation, or TEFAF was founded in 1988, and holds two major international fairs per year, the TEFAF New York, covering Modern and Contemporary Art and Design, as well as its flagship event, the TEFAF Maastricht, which ran from 15^th-20^th March this year.

TEFAF Maastricht showcases 7,000 years of art history and provides international dealers and collectors with the opportunity to present and acquire fine and museum quality works, including paintings, sculpture, furniture, collectables, books, and of course – fine jewellery and watches.

If, like me, you have missed your first-class ticket to New York this week, here are my ‘top picks’ of the pieces on display at this year’s fair.

Surely one of the jewellery ‘headliners’ at this year’s fair is of course Van Cleef & Arpels, who were exhibiting around 30 pieces available to purchase from their heritage collection. A collection I would personally love to see, the selected pieces reflect the maison’s impact and excellence in 20^th century jewellery design.

The Orsay Bracelet, a platinum ruby and diamond bangle with VCA’s signature ‘mystery setting’ – an innovation in the 1930s of setting stones with seemingly no metal holding them in place – and a brand hallmark that continues into present collections. This bangle dates from 1994.

Another masterpiece on display is a platinum, turquoise and diamond necklace from the 1950s. Dating to circa 1955, this exquisite piece reflects the brand’s appreciation for jewellery history, decorated with floral garlands and a graduated design, and of course fine turquoise drops.

Epoque Fine Jewels from Belgium were also at the fair, exhibiting an incredible Art Nouveau gold, diamond, enamel and glass choker by René Lalique. Dating to circa 1905, this exceptional choker necklace is interspersed with Lalique’s wonderful glass panels moulded with thistle flowers and accented beautifully with a rich yellow gold setting, brown enamel border and sparkling diamond detailing. This was a real treat to see in person!

Contemporary jewels to really catch my eye from the fair are on offer from Hemmerle, Feng J and Margot Mckinney. Hemmerle are previewing a pair of beautifully naturalistic pinecone earrings cast in copper and white gold, and accented with natural pearls and diamonds. Meanwhile, Australian fourth generation jeweller Margot McKinney has a typically vibrant, vivid and colourful collection of jewels that encompass a wonderful exuberance and joy- it is hard to pick a favourite!

Somlo London of Burlington Arcade have on display two beautiful Patek Philippe pocket watches, each exceptional in their own right, with an option for him and for her.

The first is an 18ct gold Perpetual Calendar hunter pocket watch with equation of time. This fine timepiece dates to 1982, and is double stamped with Patek Philippe, and the retailer of the piece, Beyer of Zurich. A sophisticated, and complicated timepiece, this watch displays the difference between mean solar time, or our conventional time, and true solar time, based on the actual position of the sun. Owing to the Earth’s orbit, this discrepancy can fluctuate throughout the year, and is reflected in the -15 and +15 subsidiary scale to 12 – now how many watches can do that!

My second selection from Somlo is this beautifully decorated Patek Philippe fob watch, crafted circa 1889. Cased in 18ct gold and detailed with split pearls, this fob watch is hand painted to the case back with an enamel portrait of Saint Fabiola, an early Christian Saint.

So there we have it, my round up of the TEFAF works and exhibitors to keep on your radar, whether you are lucky enough to attend this international event, or, like me, will be looking on enviously! Let us know which pieces have caught your eye!

To arrange a jewellery valuation contact us on 01883 722736 or email [email protected]

The Perfect Jewellery Gift for Valentine’s Day: Iconic Pieces They’ll Love

Posted on February 5, 2025March 20, 2025 by Helen Doyle

Valentine’s Day is celebrated annually on 14th February and has a surprisingly complex and layered history, blending ancient Roman traditions with Christian beliefs and medieval romance.

By the Victorian era, Valentine’s Day became a widely celebrated occasion, with flowers becoming common traditions. Today, Valentine’s Day is a global holiday expressing love and affection through various gestures and celebrations. There are also variations of the holiday including Galentine’s when one can celebrate friendships.

However you choose to celebrate, there is no getting away from the fact that it is fast approaching. With that in mind I am here to provide you with some expert guidance on how to choose the best items of jewellery this Valentine’s, for the one you love.

Tiffany & Co.

Arguably the most romantic of jewellers in the world, we couldn’t write about Valentine’s Day without mentioning Tiffany & Co., particularly a Tiffany & Co. engagement ring.

In 1887, Charles Lewis Tiffany, founder of Tiffany and Co., acquired an exceptional fancy yellow diamond from a mine in South Africa and it is known as The Tiffany diamond. It has been displayed in various settings throughout its history, with its most notable appearance as a pendant on a diamond necklace worn by Audrey Hepburn during a promotion of Breakfast at Tiffany’s in 1961.

The diamond, originally weighing 287.42 carats in its rough form, was sent to Paris where Tiffany’s chief gemmologist, Dr. George Frederick Kunz, cut the fancy yellow diamond into a beautiful, brilliant cushion-cut. It was here where Tiffany’s remarkable association with exquisite diamonds began.

Nowadays Tiffany & Co. is known to produce the most iconic engagement rings in the world, with the most popular style being The Tiffany Setting, distinguished by its 6 prongs/claws. This arrangement elevates the diamond well above the band allowing maximum light to enter the stone from all angles, therefore enhancing the diamond’s natural brilliance and sparkle and minimizing the amount of metal covering the stone. It is also held on a simple plain band ensuring that the diamond remains the centrepiece. Sales of the Tiffany engagement ring equate for 26% of their total sales. This remarkable success can be attributed to the iconic status of the brand, particularly the legendary Tiffany Setting introduced in 1886.

The price of a Tiffany Setting ring ranges anywhere from a few thousand up to six figure sums depending on the quality of the diamond.

The 1.65ct diamond single stone ring above has an insurance value of £75,000

Cartier Love bracelet

Nothing says love like a Cartier love bracelet. Created in 1969 by Italian jewellery designer Aldo Cipullo for Cartier, the bracelet was born as a unisex ‘modern handcuff’ with Cartier making the radical decision to leave the functional or decorative screws visible.

Its oval shape means it sits tight around the wearer’s wrist, and its physically screwed on to signify the permanence of true love, since two people are needed to secure the screws. The Love bracelet has become a symbol of love and commitment due to this design.

Today the bracelet is just as popular and it is rumoured that New York hospitals keep mini Love screwdrivers on the wards, in case they need to remove the bracelet in an emergency.

Its longevity and success is down to the design, according to Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s director of image, style and heritage. “For me, the Love bracelet is a success worldwide since it was created because of a combination of many different dimensions – first design, and second, symbolism. The design is linked to its meaning, because the screw, is the meaning of the object and the symbolic value is immediately visible through the very simple idea,” he explains. “The Love bracelet has become a permanent staple in modern style.”

Nowadays, the Cartier Love bracelet is seen on the wrists of many famous celebrities, including the Duke and Duchess of Sussex sporting matching Love bracelets on the cover of TIME magazine in 2020, while Meghan has been spotted wearing hers on numerous occasions over the years.

This year Cartier have released a brand-new Love Bracelet with a width of 4.8mm it the medium size with a slimmer and thicker versions available. This new version has an insurance value of £5,850.

Van Cleef and Aprels Alhambra

The Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra collection is seen as a symbol of enduring femininity, luck and love. It was in 1968 when the brand’s designers were captivated by the four-leaf clover motif and incorporating Art Deco influences, they created the iconic Alhambra pendant, with the initial design featuring a stylised quatrefoil shape set with mother-of-pearl.

It quickly gained popularity and over the years, the collection has expanded to encompass various interpretations of the Alhambra theme: bracelets, necklaces, earrings, rings and even watches, all adorned with gemstones and precious metals like mother-of-pearl, onyx, carnelian, turquoise, and diamonds.

De Beers Talisman

The De Beers Talisman collection is a line of fine jewellery that prominently features rough diamonds, highlighting their raw beauty by juxtaposing them with polished diamonds, creating a unique aesthetic that celebrates the natural, unrefined quality of rough stones, while still showcasing De Beers’ expertise in diamond cutting and setting.

The collection often utilises their “serti poinçon” technique to encapsulate the rough diamonds in the metal, giving them a distinct appearance.

The unisex collection is enjoyed by men and women.

Ruby

Rubies have been treasured throughout history for their beauty and symbolic meaning of passion, love, power, protection, and good luck. They feature prominently in royal crowns, ancient artifacts, and works of art. Fine rubies are gemstones prized for their vibrant red hue, intense brilliance, and enduring beauty.

They belong to the corundum mineral family, which also includes sapphires. Their mesmerizing red colour comes from trace amounts of chromium in their chemical structure. The most desirable rubies exhibit a vivid “pigeon’s blood” red – a rich, saturated hue with a hint of blue undertones. Other shades include purplish-red, orangish-red, and brownish-red, but the “pigeon’s blood” remains the rarest and most sought-after. It is the colour, clarity and origin which can contribute to a rubies value along with a lack of any lab treatment. Large fine natural examples with good colour can command very high prices.

Locations, like Myanmar (Burma), Madagascar, and Mozambique, are known for their exceptional quality.

No matter what gift you give or recieve this Valentine’s Day, ensure that you get it accurately valued for insurance purposes by calling us on 01883 722736 or emailing us on [email protected].

Slow and Steady? The Enduring Appeal of Cartier’s Tortue Wristwatch

Posted on November 13, 2024November 22, 2024 by Liz Bailey

French for ‘Turtle,’ the Cartier Tortue gets its name from its distinctive tortoise shell shaped case. The Tortue was Cartier’s third ever watch case design, predating even the ever-popular Tank. Louis Cartier had just introduced the Santos-Dumont in 1904 and the Tonneau in 1906 when he designed the Tortue in 1912.

Cartier’s First Ever Chronograph

The Tortue started out as a time-only watch but in 1928, both a minute repeater and a single-button chronograph were introduced. The Tortue Monopusher was in fact Cartier’s first ever chronograph timepiece. These early pieces are incredibly rare, and less than fifteen pieces have ever surfaced on the open market. In 2002, Antiquorum sold a 1929 Cartier Tortue ref. 20797 – a rare example of a minute repeating watch and at the time thought to have been the only minute repeater made by Cartier during the Art Deco period. This piece set auction records, and achieved a hammer of CHF 993,500, or £877,871.50. Two years later in 2004, Antiquorum unearthed and sold a 1928 example of a Tortue Minute Repeater ref. 20797 and this piece achieved $640,500.

Throughout the 20th century, Cartier have produced many variations of the Tortue, in steel, yellow gold and platinum. Popularised as a ladies watch and gaining celebrity fans such as Cate Blanchett and Patti Smith, these watches have been available to purchase on the secondary market, performing steadily on an upwards trajectory.

For example, the Cartier Tortue reference 2496C which was produced from 1998-2008 is a time-only, 34mm, 18ct yellow gold watch with silvered dial and classic Cartier dial with Roman numeral markers, chapter ring and blued steel Breguet style hands. According to Chrono 24, the average value of this watch took a typical post-covid dip from those dizzy heights in watch collecting, however has been steadily increasing over the last 18 months, with the average sale figure on the secondary market now sitting at £12,500 (rising from a modest £5,000 pre-covid).

Re-imagined and launched at this year’s Watches & Wonders, the 2024 Privé Tortue is the eighth instalment in Cartier’s latest Privé collection. Celebrating 112 years since the inception of the original Cartier Tortue, the maison introduced a collection of time-only and more excitingly chronograph Privé Tortue models, each limited to 200 numbered pieces – except for a diamond and platinum monopusher (or monopoussoir in French) watch limited to 50 pieces.

Model	Production Quantity	Price at Watches & Wonders 2024 (Source: Hodinkee)
Platinum Privé Tortue Monopoussir Watch	200	€53,000
Yellow Gold Privé Tortue Monopoussir Watch	200	€46,000
Platinum Privé Tortue Watch	200	€31,100
Yellow Gold Privé Tortue Watch	200	€27,900
Platinum Diamond Privé Tortue Watch	50	€67,735 (£56,500, Source: Cartier)

With production numbers limited and many models already sold out – at the time of writing only the platinum diamond Privé Tortue and the platinum Privé Tortue were still available to purchase new from Cartier – it will be interesting to see the rise in value for these timepieces, particularly the Monopoussir references with their sleek classic design, impressively ‘simple’ one button chronograph complication and distinctive red ruby cabochon crown.

In what remains an ever-changing market, current and up-to-date and specialist watch valuations are incredibly important to ensure that your collection is adequately covered. For an insurance valuation of your collection from our specialist, nationwide team, contact our team via [email protected] or visit our website www.doerrvaluations.co.uk.

Designer Jewellery Trends – An Upward Curve?

Posted on April 2, 2024March 20, 2025 by Liz Bailey

There is no doubt that values in the designer jewellery field have seen uplifts in the past few years. A unique combination of the Post Pandemic luxury goods ‘boom’, an exponential rise in social media influences on buying patterns, wider inflation and bullion prices have all contributed to an incredibly buoyant and enduring atmosphere.

Similarly to the trends seen over the last couple of years in the watch market, particular designer jewellery brands saw a huge increase in popularity, visibility, and subsequent demand on the secondary market, with only a slight respite towards the end of 2023 (Reuters).

Coupled with retail prices ever increasing, the value of these ‘hot’ designer items have been pushed up on the secondary market. Value factors include condition, whether the piece has its box, and the perceived popularity or rarity of any gemstones used in the design.

Cartier

Whilst Cartier’s growth in the retail sphere appeared to be easing towards the end of last year, share prices and figures released in January 2024 display a definite upward curve driven by demand in Asia. This healthy overall trajectory has filtered down to the secondary market, with Cartier items at auction demonstrating a strong sales rate and frequently exceeding estimate.

‘Love’

The last retail price increase for Cartier was implemented in early 2023, with prices rising from anywhere between 3% to over 10%. The most sought-after and iconic collections naturally increased the most, with Pursebop estimating the retail price of an 18ct white gold Love Bracelet set with four diamonds increasing 7% to £12,200.

The Cartier ‘Love’ bangle is one of the most popular items of jewellery ever designed. Created by Aldo Cipullo in 1969 and were referred to as a ‘modern love handcuff,’ only removable with the help of a mini screwdriver.

Worth noting that some designs, including Aldo Cipullo original LOVE jewels from the 1960s onwards will always command a premium for their place in the brand’s design history. Another 1960s design by Cipullo to continue to grow in retail price is the Juste Un Clou, with a ‘small’ diamond set bangle selling for £4,850, and a diamond-set choker necklace now retailing at £105,000.

Cartier Trinity

This year, to celebrate 100 years of the Trinity Collection, Cartier has released two new designs, a re-edition of the XL bracelet and an XL version of the iconic ring. Maintaining the timeless appeal and enduring relevance of this beautiful collection has seen values continue to rise over decades, resulting in a classic collection that is still coveted a century after its creation.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Another designer jewellery brand under the Richemont umbrella is Van Cleef & Arpels. Van Cleef & Arpels was established in 1895 following the marriage of Estelle Arpels, daughter of a dealer in precious stones, and Alfred Van Cleef, son of a lapidary. Creating masterpieces such as the ‘invisible setting,’ the minaudière, and the zip necklace, this iconic jewellery house is perhaps best known in present times for the ‘Alhambra’ collection. Indeed, according to statistics by retailer Watch Pilot, in 2023, the Van Cleef Alhambra bracelet was the most Google searched item of jewellery by category.

VCA Alhambra

Designed in 1968 by Jacques Arpels to be symbolic for luck, the Alhambra Collection is designed around a series of quatrefoil ‘four leaf clover’ panels. Varying in designs with quantity, size, and gem material, these beautifully set clover shapes are truly emblematic of the brand. Worn by royalty and celebrities to include the likes of Princess Grace of Monaco, Elizabeth Taylor, Kate Middleton and many more, the Alhambra collection possesses a truly timeless appeal.

Since 2022, the retail price for an 18ct gold Alhambra bracelet with five mother of pearl motifs has increased by 5.3% to £3,950.

At auction, the Van Cleef Alhambra pieces that well exceeded estimates were limited edition runs and unique pieces that were impossible to procure from the retail market.

One such example was a striking collar necklace, formed from openwork Alhambra links in 18ct yellow gold, selling at Bonhams in 2022 for £50,000 against a £12,000-15,000 estimate.

Boodles

Boodle & Dunthorne was established in Liverpool in 1795, gaining a reputation as one of Britain’s finest jewellers. Rebranding to ‘Boodles’ in 2004, this coveted brand has designed several sought-after jewellery collections that continue to enjoy increases in value as the years go by. Collections such as the Velocity, Blossom, and Raindance are all designed and handcrafted in-house from Boodles’ workshops in the heart of London.

Raindance

Designed in 2000 and inspired by a trip to the Chelsea Flower Show in which Head of Design Rebecca Hawkins admired the way light played on raindrops, the Raindance Collection is seen as one of the brand’s most iconic collections. Indeed, the Victoria & Albert Museum has a Raindance ring on display as part of their ‘Best of British Design’ permanent exhibition.

Featuring a series of collet set diamonds in varying sizes and angles, these beautiful jewels are retailing from £3,400 for a single band set with three circular rubies or sapphires and a pair of brilliant cut diamonds. At the top end of the spectrum is the Raindance ‘Chelsea’ bracelet, set with over 15 carats of colourless and fancy pink diamonds at £134,400.

Celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2020, Boodles released a limited-edition ring, set in platinum and 18ct rose gold with colourless and Argyle pink diamonds. Varying in carat weights, these limited edition pieces will continue to grow in value and hold their own at auction. In 2023, one such example with approximately 2.80cts of diamonds sold at Tennants Auctioneers for £19,000. Meanwhile, a version of the design on Boodles website set with 4.25cts is available for purchase at £84,000.

To conclude, exquisitely constructed and expertly finished jewellery will always possess a value, and continue to rise according to demand, popularity and inflation over time.

Although trends and fashionable collections will alter and vary over the years, items from the premier jewellery houses, in good condition and with original boxes will retain a demand from collectors, designer jewellery lovers and indeed those new to the market. Pieces that possess an unusual or rare aspect, such as an early piece from the collection, limited edition runs, and unexpected gemstones can expect to exponentially increase in value over time.

With the clear discrepancy between open market value and retail replacement value, it is essential that clients are equipped with adequate cover for their items. For a specialist, informed and up to date valuation of your jewellery collection, contact our experienced, nationwide team at Doerr Dallas Valuations.

To arrange a jewellery valuation, call us on 01883 722736 or email [email protected]

Oscars 2023, Dazzled by Snakes, Green Gems and Timeless Chic

Posted on March 21, 2023January 3, 2025 by Aurélia Turrall

Bvlgari strikes again with their Serpenti collection wrapped around Angela Bassett, Cara Delevingne and the outstanding screenwriter Phoebe Waller-Bridge.

Angela Bassett wore matching diamond-set necklace and bangle by Bvlgari, mounted in 18ct white gold. A similar necklace was sold at Sotheby’s in November 2021 with an estimate of CHF 220,000 – 325,000. The necklace set with approximately 70 carats of diamonds sold for CHF 252,000 (approximately £230,000).

Bvlgari retails a diamond-set bangle in white gold for £81,000 and is set with just under nine carats of diamonds.

Simpler versions of the bracelet can be found in yellow or rose gold for £5,300.

Matching her Dolce & Gabbana gown, Phoebe Waller-Bridge wore a diamond and emerald-set Serpenti necklace mounted in rose gold.

Bvlgari currently retails a rose gold diamondset Serpenti Viper necklace in rose gold for £45,900, with 4.41 carats of diamonds.

One of the show stoppers of the evening was stunning Cara Delevingne. In the style of Old Hollywood, she embodied chic and glamour in an off the shoulder Elie Saab gown with bow and high leg slit.

The outfit was completed with diamond and emeralds in the form of Serpenti threestrand necklace matching bracelet, Serpenti Seduttori earrings and ring.

From the same Seduttori emerald and diamond collection, a ring currently retails for £12,700. The coiled body is set with 0.57 carat of diamonds and the eyes are highlighted by 0.20 carat pear-shaped emeralds.

Moving away from the Serpenti collection was the appearance of the Diva’s Dream jewellery collection worn by Rainsford Qualley, Andie MacDowell’s daughter.

Chic and understated, the earrings are set with mother-of-pearl and mounted in white gold. The Diva’s Dream mother-of-pearl earring range is priced from £2,130 to £2,760 with a diamond surround.

For those not adorned in Bvlgari, exquisite green-gemmed jewellery certainly made a statement on the red carpet.

Sofia Carson wore a superb Chopard emerald and diamond necklace featuring seven octagonal-shaped emeralds totalling 122.49 carats along with 92.57 carats of pear-shaped, marquise, baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds set in white gold jewellery from the brand’s “Haute Joaillerie Collection.”

Fellow actress Jessica Chastain also opted for Haute Joaillerie collection from Franco- Italian designer Gucci, complementing the strapless sequined gown also by the designer. However, unlike Sofia Carson, the green gems were not emeralds but tsavorites, a form of garnet, 80 carats worth.

Other famous jewellery designer to include the green gem in its design is Cartier, with the famous Panthère collection.

This diamond, onyx, and tsavorite garnet necklace was sold for GBP 37,500 at Sotheby’s in June 2016.

Cartier was certainly a contender for the most jaw-dropping piece of jewellery of this 95th Award ceremony with a large pear-shaped yellow sapphire worn by Deepika Padukone.

Though yellow sapphires are less expensive than yellow diamonds, they are nonetheless breathtakingly beautiful and perfectly accentuate any black outfit!

Understated? Perhaps not quite, but maybe more subtle than the Serpenti collection, the yellow sapphire necklace by Cartier was my winner for this year’s Oscars. Not to say I would turn down being draped in Bvlgari Serpenti jewels to accept my award for best screenplay!

This might just be one Diva’s Dream but then anything’s possible in Hollywood, so carry on dreaming…

Princess Catherine’s jewellery

Posted on January 9, 2023January 15, 2025 by Aurélia Turrall

From Everyday Mum To Future Queen, A Jewel For Every Occasion

It all started with a proposal…

One of the most famous items of jewellery the Princess of Wales has come to possess, is the “Royal Blue” sapphire engagement ring, which belonged to her mother-in-law, the late Princess Diana. It is probably the most famous sapphire, weighing 12 carats and set within a surround of brilliant-cut diamonds.

In 1981, chosen by the then Prince Charles, for Diana, from the official royal jewellers Garrard, the sapphire ring cost £50,000. Because of the provenance and history of the ring, it has become a priceless piece of jewellery, but one could estimate its current price to be around £500,000.

The world’s most expensive sapphire to sell at auction was sold at Sotheby’s Hong Kong on the 7th October 2015. It weighed 27.68 carats of natural Kashmir origin and made $6,702,564, $242,415 per carat.

For her wedding, Queen Elizabeth II lent the Cartier Halo Tiara to the Duchess. It was made in 1936 and comprises of 739 brilliant-cut diamonds and 149 baguette-cut diamonds, and it was purchased by King George VI (then still Duke of York) for his wife, Elizabeth (who we all know better as the Queen Mother), which she wore to a charity ball at Claridge’s in London, their first gala outing since the official ending of the lengthy court mourning period for the late King George V.

To match Catherine’s engagement ring, the Duke of Cambridge gifted a pair of sapphire and diamond cluster earrings from his mother’s personal collection. The Princess simply had them altered to be drops rather than clips.

The Princess is often seen combining her engagement ring with a classic 33mm Cartier Ballon Bleu wristwatch. Mounted in stainless steel, it is decorated with Roman numerals, fluted crown with a synthetic spinel cabochon, silvered guilloché opaline dial, blued-steel sword-shaped hands, sapphire crystal and steel bracelet. It currently retails for £5,400.

When Catherine gave birth to Prince George, Prince William gifted her the Eclipse diamond ring by Annoushka. It is set with 0.23ct total of diamonds and retails at £1,500.

She wears it in combination with her engagement ring.

For the arrival of Princess Charlotte, the then Duke of Cambridge this time choose another designer, Kiki McDonough, and gifted the Duchess a pair of green tourmaline and green amethyst drop earrings.

She was first spotted wearing these during the couple’s tour of India in 2016. Though these were made-to-order for the Princess, you can currently get a pair of similar earrings (below) from the designer for £3,700. These are green amethyst and diamond earrings, mounted in yellow gold.

The Princess owns several pieces by the designer: 18 pairs of earrings and three necklace to date.

Here are some examples:

The Princess has jewellery for every occasion, as can be expected. Her everyday jewels include the above by designer jewellers, but Catherine also favours high street jewellery, such as the below by Accesorize.

These are no longer available but can be found on eBay ranging from £48 to a whopping £96.96 (plus £10.77 for postage!).

It was rumoured that when Prince Louis was born, the Prince gave Catherine a citrine ring, but it was discovered by fans that the Princess had previously worn it in 2008 while celebrating her birthday.

The ring is beautiful and has meaning for the Princess. She was also seen wearing it for the premiere of the last James Bond film, No Time to Die, to match the golden sequinned gown by Jenny Packham.

Perhaps my favourite dress worn by the Princess.

When the Princess is not at a red carpet event or formal gala, the mother of three has been seen to wear a necklace by Spells of Love retailing for £85, suspending three medallions with the initial of each child.

Catherine also wears a Merci Maman necklace gifted to her by her sister, Pippa, after the birth of Prince George in 2014.

For more formal wear, the Princess has been seen wearing brooches, tiaras and exceptional necklaces, such as the four-row pearl chocker, created using a collection of cultured pearls gifted to the Queen by the Japanese government which Catherine wore to Prince Philip’s funeral in April, 2021. In mourning, the Royals don’t wear colour, so pearls are pure, white, and unflashy. This tradition comes from Queen Victoria, who did not want to wear any colour following the death of her husband Prince Albert.

The late Princess Diana also wore it to a state banquet in the Netherlands.

A very sombre then Duchess of Cambridge wore the historical chocker for the Queen’s funeral earlier this year.

The Princess combined the tiara worn by the late Princess Diana (above) with her engagement ring of course but also the Royal Family Order brooch, representing the late Monarch within a diamond surround.

The tiara, called the Lover’s Knot tiara, was lent to Diana as seen below, then went back to the Queen, and upon her passing, is now worn exclusively by Princess Catherine.

Several of Queen Elizabeth’s II jewels will have been passed down to the Queen Consort and several to Catherine.

Recently, the Princess wowed us with this stunning emerald and diamond choker. She stepped out at the Earthshot Prize Awards in Boston in a bright green gown by Solace London, paired with an emerald-and-diamond choker, once owned by Princess Diana. The choker itself was first owned by Queen Mary in 1911, and later presented to Diana as a wedding gift to Prince Charles in 1981.

In this year’s Christmas pictures, the Princess wears a pair of ruby and diamond cluster earrings, made by Soru in Turkey, and retail for £145.

Whatever the occasion, Princess Catherine never disappoints with her exquisite outfits and matching jewellery. And on this special occasion, I wish her a very Happy Birthday.

Fluctuations of the market in the last few years

Posted on December 2, 2022January 15, 2025 by Aurélia Turrall

As with every market, jewellery prices will inevitably fluctuate, though I can’t say I’ve seen the price of precious stones go down in the last few years. Seen as a commodity by some and as a treasure by others, it’s important to understand the cost of remaking a unique piece of jewellery. It will be dictated by global demand for diamond (or other precious stones), gold, silver, palladium and other alloy metals and stones.

High worldwide demand for palladium – due to its key importance in the development of renewable energy – inevitably increases the cost of gold – based items of jewellery. Because of its softness, gold used in jewellery is mixed with alloys. Alloys are other metals, such as zinc, copper, nickel, iron, cadmium, aluminium, silver, platinum and palladium. This mix then alters its appearance, hardness and melting point. Palladium is a chosen favourite as an alloy metal. At today’s value, the scrap value for palladium is £41/gram compared to £21.50/gram for platinum, which then impacts gold jewellery pieces.

As an example, this 9ct gold gate bracelet with heart locket was estimated £70-£100 by Bonhams in 2005. Today’s estimate would most likely be £200-£300.

Designer pieces with diamonds are affected in a similar manner.

This diamond and gold bracelet by Kutchinsky (above) sold at Bonhams for £1,553 (including premium) in 2005.

A similar item by the same designer (below) sold for £2,550 (including premium) in 2019.

For insurance purpose, the above bracelet would receive a value of £8,000 as at 2022.

Coloured stones have also seen an increase in price.

This emerald and diamond cluster ring is set with an emerald weighing approximately 5.20 carats and approximately 1.15 carats of diamonds. It was previously valued at £42,000 in 2011 for insurance purpose. Eleven years on, it is now valued at £65,000.

One could try to apply generic inflation percentages as a tool to update valuations, however this is incorrect and will often lead to your jewellery being under or overvalued. In the case of the above ring, a formula trying to reflect inflation would be detrimental to the value of the ring.

Valuing jewellery should always be case by case, as some signed vintage pieces will increase over the years, but not at the same rate as precious gemstones for example. The market for an Art Déco Cartier wristwatch (as below), though rare, has a smaller market of potential buyers and sellers. Comparatively to coloured stones, the value for this wristwatch will never exceed a certain plateau. This watch currently retails for £35,000.

A similar wristwatch by Cartier (below) sold at Bonhams in 2017 for £16,250 (including premium) and would have most likely received an insurance value of £23,000.

Diamonds on the other hand continue to escalate at a steady pace.

These diamonds earstuds (above) are 4.01 carats and 4.04 carats respectively. They were valued for insurance purposes at £300,000 in 2012 and are now valued at £360,000.

The same applies to contemporary signed pieces such as the Alhambra collection by Van Cleef & Arpels.

The mother-of-pearl Alhambra necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels was sold for £9,950 less than ten years ago and now retails for £15,800. A steady increase reflecting world demand for durable contemporary and elegant jewellery by a reputable designer.

The jewellery market is not exempt from worldwide affairs and economic changes, but it will always have an added unquantifiable value: emotional value. Jewellery can be seen as an investment, but it still predominantly remains a purchase of pleasure and luxury, whichever gem or metal one chooses and whatever happens in the world.

Watches Update

Posted on May 9, 2022January 16, 2025 by Doerr Dallas Valuations

Well, if we thought that 2020 couldn’t be surpassed in the watch world – we could not have been further from the truth!
We must start (we really do) with what was without doubt the biggest drop of 2021 – the Tiffany/Patek Phillipe 5711 – 1A/018

We are all very aware that one of the most desirable watches in the Patek Phillipe arsenal is due to be retired this year and as such the last 18 months have been spent by watch aficionados talking about how the standard Patek Phillipe 5711 has risen to the ranks of a £175,000 wristwatch when compared to a few years ago – it really is astonishing.

So, when the powers that be decided a send-off to conquer all others was required – they called in the big guns, and that robin egg blue dial appeared from nowhere. 170 will be produced and available exclusively from Tiffany boutiques and one can only imagine how these may perform on the secondary market – in a recent charity auction, one of the 170 sold for a jaw dropping $6.5 million, which is simply staggering for a watch that retails at a few bucks over $52,000.

Now some people amongst you will be aware that Tiffany has recently been acquired by LVMH and this moment has clearly been defined by the 5711 – 1A/018, it even has a little nod to the recent acquisition on the engraving of the caseback – a little brash? Maybe, but I am fairly sure that most watch people won’t notice the difference and hope that the work between the two companies will continue as it has done for the last 170 years.

As far as the rest of 2021 happened – it was pretty much a continuation of 2020, with rises across the board of Patek Phillipe, Audemars Piguet, and of course… Rolex sports models.

At the start of 2021, a 116610LN could be acquired on the secondary market for just short of £10,000 now, it’s closer to £16,000. Considering back in the pre covid days of 2018, on a good day you could get one for closer to £6000 – it hasn’t been a bad investment and if you bought the green bezel model – well that’s a completely different story!

Other highlights of 2021 have included the Bremont ENG300 – Whilst the English brothers may have had to fight off some arguments about the origin of parts of their watches, this new model has what appears to be a well-researched in house movement, that really is a game changer for the UK watch industry.

The Cartier Solarbeat, is certainly a watch for the risk taker – a person that wants a classical design with one of the most forward-thinking developments of the year – a solar powered Cartier, its doesn’t sound right saying it, but could you tell the difference? At a really good price point as well, one would have to be brave to bet against it being a huge success.

Finally, what has to be my watch of the year is the Tissot PRX, starting at under £300 (yes, three hundred pounds) it is an amazing retro design with hints of the big boys, but with a price tag that makes it far more accessible to enthusiasts on a lower budget as well.

What will 2022 bring? It’s difficult to say but with watch shows being planned for throughout the year, and design teams back at their desks I am sure that there will be a few surprises ahead!

If I had £5,000 to invest what would I buy?

Posted on October 19, 2021March 10, 2025 by Aurélia Turrall

Autumn is upon us, and so we all prepare to bring our winter coats and hats down from the attic ready to face the colder days and chill in the air. But it’s not all doom and gloom. Who says new season, says new coats, and perhaps new jewels…

If I had £5,000 I would buy myself a beautiful Art Déco diamond double clip brooch. And that would certainly brighten up any cold day and any winter coat or hat! Why would I pick that particular piece? The answer is simple and straight forward: one can never go wrong with diamonds. Diamonds are timeless, full of fire, brilliance and sparkle. Diamonds set in Art Déco pieces are often a mix between old brilliant-cut (round) and very sharp calibré-cut. Calibré-cut is the name for those stones which have been cut to fit a precise piece of jewellery. They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes and can be diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, onyx… the list goes on. It is that unique combination of cuts which I find fascinating and exciting when wearing a piece of jewellery. Choosing an older piece of jewellery means embracing its history. With Art Déco, the history is in the stones, but not only. The material used to mount the stones changed from gold to platinum. Platinum became a new favourite in the roaring 20s and was used by all the great designers. So much so that Cartier launched their new platinum jewellery collection on the same day they opened their studio in Paris, rue de la Paix, because of what it represented in the world of jewellery. This new technique offered more sturdiness to the pieces and brighter metal.

But Art Déco is so much more than stones and metal. It is a symbol, synonymous of freedom and order after a world in chaos. The straight lines found in Art Déco jewellery break with the traditional ribbons and swags from the Belle époque. They can appear simple but are in fact very complex, combining circular shapes with kite or baguette-cuts for example. They are designed with an edge to give women an edge. The pieces can be angular but more importantly they have clean lines, with perfect symmetry, no room for “delicacy” found in earlier jewels. Even though on close inspection, Art Déco pieces are incredibly delicate as they try to juggle new shapes, cuts and combinations of colours. With an all diamond-set piece, one is able to add it to any coloured outfit.

A double-clip brooch from that period would combine all of the above and even more. I would pick this item for its ambivalence. It can be worn as one piece, or separately, allowing to wear one part on a silk scarf, to tie the two ends together for example, and the other perhaps on one’s coat, hat or a suit.

Chic and timeless, an Art Déco piece worn in a man’s world makes a strong statement of equality and fearlessness, fitting any suit or garment with its contemporary look filled with history.

Art Deco Cartier Jewellery

Posted on April 21, 2021March 17, 2025 by Aurélia Turrall

The Early Days of Cartier

In 1847 Louis-Francois Cartier takes over a studio in Paris, joined by his son Alfred, and later by his three grandsons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques. Within a decade their reputation precedes them and they provide jewellery to the Empress and Napoleon’s extended family.

The years 1910-1940 are considered by many experts to be the golden era for Cartier. It employed the finest designers and craftsmen, but not necessarily jewellery designers. They preferred to hire designers from all backgrounds: furniture designers and architects to get a fresh pair of eyes on jewellery design.

During the early 20th century, peace rules and the Exposition Universelle of April 1900 attracts over 50 million guests in 7 months. The Ritz opened its doors in 1898. It is overall a prosperous time during which Cartier move into their new quarters in the luxurious rue de la Paix, in Paris. From then, everything takes off. They have international purchasers, organise exhibitions abroad such as in St Petersburg to showcase exceptional pieces inspired by Easter and Christmas. When they officially open their new atelier (“shop”) rue de la Paix, they combine it with launching a new technique of jewellery making: setting stones and jewels into platinum all the while keeping the traditional style.

It was the beginning of a revolution yet to come in jewellery design and making.

The Beginnings of the Art Deco Movement

It’s generally agreed that the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris was the official launch of the Art Deco movement, though the style can be traced back at least a decade before.

The Great War is the catalyst for the movement to emerge. Women, having done men’s jobs during the war, come out of the shadow and step away from the delicate and fragile attire of the Belle Epoque era with bows, ribbons, swags, flowers, items mounted en-tremblant. From now on, angular stones, baguette and calibré-cut diamonds are favoured along with short hair “à la garçonne” (“like a boy”) and suits, giving women a masculine but sexy look.

Cartier Tank Original 1919

Art Deco was Synonymous with Freedom and Order

Launched in 1917, created by Louis Cartier and inspired by chaos, comes the Tank Original. This first wristwatch is rectangular, has a creamy-white dial which offsets the bold Roman numerals, chemin de fer chapter ring, with blue steel sword-shaped hands and a sapphire cabochon winder. The prototype was presented to General John Pershing of the American Expeditionary Force by Cartier himself and has become a symbol of chic and luxury.

It is a clear step away from the curves and fussiness of Art Nouveau with clear lines and no frills.

Louis Cartier, supposedly, was inspired by Renault F-17 tanks as seen from above: the brancards representing the tracks of the tank and the square case its main housing.
The wristwatch is a real symbol of freedom. No longer attached to your attire, there is freedom of movement in the wrist. It resonates the desire for structure in the midst of chaos, it celebrates technology and new machinery.

Art Deco Jewellery Echoes New Clothes and Hair Fashion

In jewellery, the Edwardian and Belle Epoque style are no longer accepted. Heavy tiaras are replaced with head pieces called bandeau.

Queen mother wearing a Cartier bandeau made up of three of the five bracelets which her husband, King George VI bought for her.

A diamond bandeau by Cartier sold by Christie’s in November 2019 for almost £900,000.

Some more “modest” bandeau would have been set with tarlatan and beads rather than diamonds. Or if jewellery was adorned with diamonds, smaller sized diamonds and gems were used, breaking from the past which favoured very large stones. Pieces were now set with detailed calibré-cut stones, meaning they are usually square or rectangle and cut to fit a piece.
The Art Deco head pieces were light and had straight lines rather than garlands found in Belle Epoque jewellery for example. It fits short hair and with that comes longer earrings for example and sautoir (long necklaces).

A Cartier pearl and diamond sautoir, circa 1925, sold at Christie’s in May 2012. Estimate £60,000-85,000 sold for approx. £400,000
Pearls are an important component for Cartier and were a sure thing to buy, until the Wall Street crash in 1929.

Monochrome Art Deco

In the earlier years of Art Deco jewellery, pieces were monochrome, black and white were key. Using rock crystal, onyx and diamonds as key gems. In the wake of the Great War, many were in mourning.

A diamond and rock crystal bangle, sold at Christie’s for $204,000 in Oct 2000.

This price reflects the constant desire for the sleek sober but luxurious look of Art Deco monochrome pieces, a style always in vogue and not likely to disappear anytime soon.
Vogue states that “A woman, in Paris, who knows how to dress, is almost always dressed in black. Not through laziness but by sophistication.”

The Move to New Materials and Daring Combinations

As we move forward so does the colour scheme in jewellery. Cartier attempts daring combinations of colours which no one had previously tried. There are two factors which contribute to this new direction. In the Cartier archives, we find that Leon Bakst, a Russian painter and costume designer, and part of the Ballets Russes, was a great source of inspiration for Charles Jacqueau, one of the great designers for Cartier from 1909 until 1954. Leon Bakst had designed costumes for a ballet, Scherehazade, mixing only blues, greens and red. This had a big impact on Jacqueau. This colour combination had always been considered to be of bad taste until Jacqueau decided to take a risk and integrate it in his jewellery designs. Simultaneously, the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922 created waves in the Cartier design. Louis Cartier pushes his designers to familiarise themselves with all things Egyptian: heading to the Louvre to study their collection or simply walking through Paris, filled with Egyptian artefacts, to understand the style. Never before had anyone combined carnelian with turquoise and lapis lazuli, until now.

Renewed interest in Asian art meant that jade, lacquer, coral and enamel were also integrated. At this time, Jacques Cartier, who was running Cartier London, often travelled, and would return with many exquisite gems to be added to the Cartier jewels. These stones could be carved or made into cabochon. Cartier was the first to create these new colour and gem combinations. In the 1970s the style was named Tutti Frutti.

Contrast and Colour comes into Vogue

The Collier Hindou

Fransesca Cartier Brickell speaks about this necklace in her book “The untold story of the family behind the jewellery empire, The Cartiers”. The necklace belonged to Daisy Fellowes, the heiress to the Singer sewing machine. She had this necklace commissioned, using her own stones. It was designed to be tied at the back with a black silk cord, as would Indian jewels be. However, the big difference here is the use of sapphire, thought to bring bad luck in India. This is a statement of combining far away travels and traditional Western European gems. His daughter, the Comtesse of Casteja, inherited the necklace and in 1991 it was sold at Sotheby’s for $2,655,172. It was a world record for an Art Deco piece of jewellery sold at auction.

The Constant Desire for Exceptional Jewels

Tutti Frutti ruby, sapphire, emerald, diamond and enamel bracelet, by Cartier, circa 1930

The meandering vines, set with carved rubies, emeralds, sapphires, calibré-cut onyx, black enamel and diamonds is the perfect marriage of West meets East, a perfect artful arrangement. It belonged to an American family and had been in the family for 30 years. It came up for sale at Sotheby’s on 28th April 2020, during the pandemic. It was presented online only, during a four-day sale, during which five bidders competed to purchase the bracelet. Its estimate was $600-800,000 and sold for $1,340,000. It has become a record for any jewel sold in an online-only auction and any jewel sold at auction in 2020. Sotheby’s stated that it “follows a trend observed across all our global jewellery auctions in 2019 in which more than half of the jewellery buyers place their bids online.” This bracelet also illustrates that demand for such exceptional jewels, even during the most challenging times, will always exist. Cartier’s exceptional savoir-faire is timeless.