Barry Humphries

Barry Humphries: A Life in Comedy, Art and Satire

Early Life and Education

John Barry Humphries was born on February 17 1934, in Melbourne, Australia. Raised in a comfortable suburban home, he developed a love for theatre, literature, and surreal humour from an early age. He was also a budding artist – as a young child his father would encourage him by drawing head studies and he would do the bodies. Then as a teenager he became a junior pupil in the life class at Melbourne’s George Bell painting school and he continued to paint throughout his life.

Career Beginnings and Move to London

Humphries first made a mark in the Melbourne theatre scene in the 1950s, performing in satirical revues. During this time, he created Dame Edna Everage, originally as a parody of an Australian suburban housewife. In 1959, he moved to London, where he became involved in the vibrant theatre and comedy world. He worked with comedy legends such as Peter Cook and Dudley Moore and became part of the satire boom that influenced British comedy for decades to follow.

Barry with Peter Cooke,( left )and Dudley Moore in the early 1960’s
Barry with Peter Cooke,( left )and Dudley Moore in the early 1960s

Rise to Fame: The Evolution of Dame Edna

Barry’s best known and perhaps best loved character, Dame Edna Everage had transformed over the years from a meek Melbourne housewife in the 50s into an extravagant, purple-haired “megastar” known for her razor-sharp wit, oversized glasses, and love of gladioli. She hosted TV talk shows such as The Dame Edna Experience; and also live stage shows in London’s West End, such as Edna-The Spectacle where she humorously and often ruthlessly insulted members of the audience.

I was an audience member at one of these shows in the early 90s. Our seats were fairly near the front of the stalls, and as I was sitting in the aisle unwittingly I became a prime target for Dane Edna’s audience spotters, who picked me out to come up on stage along with a dozen other people. We were all lined up across the right hand side of the stage, standing rather awkwardly waiting for what was to come. I got off quite lightly, for women Dame Edna made a thorough search through their handbags looking for anything suitably embarrassing and for men it was down to their ‘pocket litter’ and wallets. Somehow I had managed to lose my wallet or at least misplace it in between leaving the car and arriving at the theatre so I just got a severe teasing for having done so…..

Other Iconic Characters

Humphries was a master of character comedy and created several other satirical figures, including:

  • Sir Les Patterson – A vulgar, drunken Australian politician who with his heavily food stained tie and suit lapels unashamedly mocked all and every cultural stereotype.
  • Sandy Stone – A melancholic elderly man reminiscing about a lost Australia.
  • Barry McKenzie – A beer-loving Australian expatriate, featured in comic strips and films.
Dame Edna wearing lot 17 the ‘royal variety dress ‘ which made £21,420 vs £1500-2000 estimate
Dame Edna wearing lot 17 the ‘royal variety dress ‘ which made £21,420 vs £1500-2000 estimate

Film, TV, and Literary Work

Humphries enjoyed success in various mediums:

  • Voiced Bruce the Shark in Finding Nemo (2003).
  • Appeared in The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey (2012).
  • Wrote novels, memoirs (More Please, My Life as Me), and satirical essays.
  • Starred in numerous stage productions, including one-man shows combining comedy, improv, and audience interaction.

Later Life and Legacy

Despite announcing his retirement several times, Humphries continued performing well into his 80s. He received numerous honours, including a Commander of the Order of the British Empire (CBE) and an Officer of the Order of Australia (AO).

Barry Humphries was not only a brilliant comedian and satirist but also a passionate art collector. Over his lifetime, he built an impressive collection of paintings, drawings, and sculptures, particularly focusing on Australian modernist and surrealist art.

A trick colour shot of Barry sitting next to Dame Edna. On a love seat the dress she is wearing was lot 240 which sold for £29,160 vs an estimated £1,500-2,000
A trick colour shot of Barry sitting next to Dame Edna. On a love seat the dress she is wearing was lot 240 which sold for £29,160 vs an estimated £1,500-2,000

Humphries’ Love of Fine Art

Through his appreciation for modernist and avant-garde art in his youth, Barry was also influenced by movements such as Dadaism and Surrealism. Barry further developed an extraordinarily good ‘eye ‘ for Fine Art and objects. This innate ability later lead to an almost obsessive desire to acquire art and objects he lusted for.

Later during his time in London, Barry mingled with artists and intellectuals, which only deepened this already very strong interest in collecting.

I first came across Barry in the early 1980’s when I was a picture specialist at Christie’s in South Kensington. We held regular sales of Australian and decorative International Fine Art and objects and Barry was a regular attendee at many of these sales. I met him viewing in person at our auction previews on many occasions over the years. He cut a very striking figure in his broad brimmed black velvet hat, usually pulled down low over his eyes and an equally black stylish cape, this gave him an air of mystery always caused a buzz in the sale room. It was always exciting whenever a celebrity came to view one of our auctions , however Barry was different in that he was not only very knowledgeable, he was also very happy to spend time talking about what interested him and why and he was happy to share his knowledge … in his purchasing he showed all the classic hallmarks of the truly dedicated collector, I remember him declaring that he was constantly stretching his finances to buy the best and rarest pieces and then worrying about where the money was going to come from afterwards…..!

Lot 228 under the sea dress , Sold £13,860 estimated at £1500-2500
Lot 228 under the sea dress , Sold £13,860 estimated at £1500-2500
Burne jones young girl sold £195,300 estimated at £30k-£50k
Burne Jones 'Young girl' sold £195,300 estimated at £30k-£50k
Lot 37 by Max Beerbohm sold £37,800 estimated at £8k-£12k
Lot 37 by Max Beerbohm sold £37,800 estimated at £8k-£12k
Lot 84 self portrait by Aubrey Beardsley sold £32,760 estimated at £20k-£30k
Lot 84 self portrait by Aubrey Beardsley sold £32,760 estimated at £20k-£30k
lot 24 ‘Possum spectacles’ £37,800 estimated at £1k-£1.5k
Lot 24 ‘Possum spectacles’ £37,800 estimated at £1k-£1.5k
Lot 35 by Charles Conder sold £113,400 estimated at £100k-£150k
Lot 35 by Charles Conder sold £113,400 estimated at £100k-£150k
Lot 13 the Sydney opera house glasses, sold for £25,200 estimated at £1k-£1.5k
Lot 13 the Sydney opera house glasses, sold for £25,200 estimated at £1k-£1.5k
Lot 15 red glasses , sold for £15,120 estimated at £1-1500
Lot 15 red glasses , sold for £15,120 estimated at £1k-£1.5k
Lot 17 the ‘royal variety dress’ which made £21,420 vs £1500-2000 estimate
Lot 17 the ‘royal variety dress’ which made £21,420 vs £1500-2000 estimate
Lot 224 Edward Lear by himself sold £10,710 estimated at £2k-£3k
Lot 224 Edward Lear by himself sold £10,710 estimated at £2k-£3k
Lot 5 a view of Wilpena painted by Barry himself sold for £21,420 versus an estimate of £3k-£5k
Lot 5 a view of Wilpena painted by Barry himself sold for £21,420 versus an estimate of £3k-£5k

Artistic Influence on His Comedy

His love of surrealism and modernist art influenced his comedic style, seen in the absurdity of his characters and his sharp satire. His appreciation for visual aesthetics was also evident in the flamboyant costumes and theatricality of Dame Edna Everage.

Barry Humphries’ art collection is a true reflection of his intellectual curiosity, humour, and love for the avant-garde, making him not just a performer but also a serious connoisseur of fine art.

Barry died on April 22, 2023, at the age of 89, a significant number of works from his collection along with pieces from his work as an entertainer such as Dame Edna’s flamboyant glasses were included in the first of a series of auctions, this first auction took place in London on February 13th and is called ‘Barry Humphries, the personal collection’, unsurprisingly the printed catalogue has completely sold out, however it’s still possible to view the auction online and I have highlighted the results for a few pieces from this remarkable very personal collection, which includes numerous pairs of Dame Edna’s trademark glasses along with Fine objects, original paintings and prints by various artists, plus a number of fine original paintings by Barry himself!

Barry really was a man of many talents and interests and he leaves behind a much larger legacy as one of the greatest satirists and entertainers of his time. While his humour, characters, and sharp social commentary remain an enduring part of comedy history; his contribution as an avid, determined and hugely knowledgeable art collector adds significantly to his much more widely known legacy as an entertainer.

Post auction insurance values

A very recent auction such as this one has arguably established a market or auction value represented by the prices achieved, however they do not represent a value for insurance purposes, they are only the price achieved on the day and on another day at another time the price may well be quite different. Therefore, it is important to have any new purchases valued for insurance and added to your policy schedule as soon as possible and from then on, have them re-valued on a regular basis, ideally every four years also with the rest of your collection.
Looking at the results of the sale, I’d say there were two distinct groups of buyers. Generally, prices for the traditional art, sculpture, and paintings were closer to their estimates than those for the Dame Edna souvenirs, dresses, glasses, and so on.

Barry Humphries was, as I saw him, a very serious collector who made significant financial sacrifices to amass such a fine ‘private collection’, as the auction title suggests. Strong prices were achieved for the traditional art, sculpture, and paintings, which sold much closer to their estimates. The more ‘frivolous’ Dame Edna souvenirs, strictly speaking not collected by Barry but ‘acquired’ over the years, were less predictable.

The top lot of the sale, Sand Dunes by Charles Conder, sold for £239,400 against an estimate of £200K to £300K, so spot on. I imagine the buyers of dresses and glasses had little or no interest in this painting or any of the other serious artworks. Quite understandably, they just wanted to own something as a memory of a celebrity they loved and weren’t too concerned about what they should pay.

I don’t envy the person who had to estimate the value of Edna’s glasses or stage costumes. Perhaps the estimates were perfectly reasonable if people hadn’t loved Dame Edna so much. In hindsight, they might appear cautious, but I think they were fair to begin with. After that, it simply became a matter of passion and a hugely enjoyable bidding war to determine the winners.

By contrast, prices for the paintings were more predictable as there were comparable results from past auctions, many likely bought by Barry himself. On average, these works sold closer to their estimates, though some did exceed expectations. That happens even in single-owner sales of non-famous people’s collections, where prices almost always exceed expectations. I once worked it out and found that, on average, the final total for a single-owner sale was 2.4 times the pre-sale low estimate.

As they say in football, this was a game of two halves. Fans of Dame Edna were on one side and, on the other, serious collectors of late 19th- and 20th-century British illustrators, Australian artists, and admirers of Oscar Wilde and his followers. It made for a truly memorable auction and great entertainment. The final sale total was £4,627,224.

Barry would have loved it!

CHARLES CONDER (1868-1909) Sand dunes, Ambleteuse. Price realised GBP 239,400 Estimate £200k-£300k.
CHARLES CONDER (1868-1909) Sand dunes, Ambleteuse. Price realised GBP 239,400 Estimate £200k-£300k.

To arrange a memorabilia valuation or an art valuation call us on 01883 722736 or email us at [email protected].

 

Iris Apfel Auction

Unapologeticaly Iris – The Iris Apfel Collection Auction

Highly anticipated, Christie’s Sale of Iris Apfel’s collection took place as a timed auction from New York, running from 28th January until 13th February. The sale included 220 lots from the late ‘Matriarch of Maximialism’s’ personal collection across fashion, furnishings, textiles, accessories and of course, jewellery.

Known and celebrated for her bold and bright signature style, Apfel was a renowned interior designer, fashion icon, model, curator and collector. Her irreverent, eclectic and playful style was absolutely reflected in the incredible lots on offer.

Accessories

It seems fitting that the lot to ‘kick off’ this stylish sale was a selection of eighteen pairs of glasses. In bright hues, zebra prints and heart shapes, this striking mixed lot certainly set the tone for the rest of the sale. Estimated initially at $400-600, the bids were sitting at over ten times that amount a mere few days into the two-week timed sale, and one lucky bidder secured this lot for $15,120.

Iris Apfel 1921 - 2024
Iris Apfel 1921 - 2024
Lot 1 - A CASE OF EIGHTEEN MULTICOLOR AND PATTERN EYEGLASS FRAMES. IRIS APFEL X ZENNI, 2021-2022
Lot 1 - A CASE OF EIGHTEEN MULTICOLOR AND PATTERN EYEGLASS FRAMES. IRIS APFEL X ZENNI, 2021-2022

Another lot that was unsurprisingly popular was lot 48, ten pairs of eyewear. Only two days into the sale the bidding was at $3,500 against a modest $200-300 estimate, and bidding concluded at an incredible $16,380.

Another lot of Apfel’s accessories included a selection of evening bags. Including all the hallmarks of Apfel’s signature style to include embroidery, bold colours, feathers and embellishments, this popular lot sold for $10,080.

Lot 48 - TEN PAIRS OF EYEWEAR
Lot 48 - TEN PAIRS OF EYEWEAR. VARIOUS DESIGNERS, INCLUDING CHRISTIAN DIOR, EMILIO PUCCI, LATE 20TH/21ST CENTURY
Lot 209 - SEVEN EVENING BAGS
Lot 209 - SEVEN EVENING BAGS LABELED OSCAR DE LA RENTA, CHADO RALPH RUCCI, ARTISTIC BOMBAY, THE REST UNLABELLED, LATE 20TH/21ST CENTURY
Iris Apfel Furniture

Furnishings

The daughter of an antique dealer and an expert on interiors (having decorated the White House for no less than nine Presidents!) bidders were offered a glimpse into Apfel’s extraordinary collection of interiors and decorative objects.

Animals were a huge feature in Apfel’s interiors collection, multiple paintings of Maltese dogs (a clear favourite), Black Forest bears, and even a giant carved ostrich were just a few of the animal lots on offer. The carved 1970s Italian ostrich stood 124cm high and had been featured in Apfel’s Architectural Digest issue of 2016, estimated at 6,000-8,000, this big bird sold for $16,380.

Vibrant prints, colours, and an eclectic mixture of items from Greek style all the way to the present day ensured the catalogue was a visual treat!

A personal favourite of mine was a pair of wonderful Italian armchairs. Modelled with a scallop shell back, dolphin armrests and raised on shell legs, these 20th century carved and silvered chairs exuded sheer opulence! Estimated at $2,000-3,000, these chairs reached $8,820. The back and seat in scallop-shell form, the arms modeled as dolphins raised on shell-form legs, the back legs on each example attached backwards. 40 in. (101.5 cm) high, overall.

Lot 23: A PAIR OF CIRCULAR BRASS HALL LIGHTS EACH MOUNTED WITH A CONTINENTAL CERAMIC PARROT.THE LIGHTS 20TH CENTURY, THE PARROTS LATE 19TH/20TH CENTURY
Lot 23: A PAIR OF CIRCULAR BRASS HALL LIGHTS EACH MOUNTED WITH A CONTINENTAL CERAMIC PARROT.THE LIGHTS 20TH CENTURY, THE PARROTS LATE 19TH/20TH CENTURY
Lot 86 - A PAIR OF ITALIAN SILVERED ARMCHAIRS
Lot 86 - A PAIR OF ITALIAN SILVERED ARMCHAIRS
Lot 85: SPANISH SCHOOL, 17TH CENTURY Portrait of Margarita Teresa (1651-1673), Infanta of Spain, and later Holy Roman Empress, Queen Consort of Germany Hungary and Bohemia, Archduchess Consort of Austria, in a red and silver silk gown and jewel-encrusted stomacher oil on canvas, in a painted oval 68.9 x 52.7 cm. $1,500-2,000. Sold for $17,640.

Fashion

Hotly anticipated was Apfel’s selection of fashion and couture pieces. Taking up just under half of the sale, there were ninety-six lots from Iris’s collection, ranging from group lots of unattributed vintage clothing at the lower end of the offering, all the way to custom couture pieces Iris wore in printed publications. This wonderful mixture of high-low dressing was absolutely Apfel’s trademark and lent an accessibility to collectors of all levels.


Designer garments by Carolina Herrera, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Moschino, Christian Dior, Alice & Olivia, Valentino, Prada, Jean Paul Gautier, Iris Apfel x H&M and countless other designers were offered with estimates from $100-200 to $1,200-1,800.

Lot 51 - A multicolour feather coat
Lot 51: A MULTICOLOR FEATHER COAT
LABELED DIOR HAUTE COUTURE, PARIS, 21ST CENTURY

Amongst the top sellers was this fabulous Dior Haute Couture feather coat that Apfel had been photographed in by James Mollison for the Collectors series, featured in a 2018 Issue of Christie’s Magazine. This piece instantly attracted bids and reached $9,000 very early on in the timed sale, finally settling at $11,970 at the conclusion of the sale.

Lot 32 - A MULTICOLOR BEADED AND EMBROIDERED ‘IVAN’ COAT. LABELED ALICE + OLIVIA BY STACEY BENDET, CIRCA 2022
Lot 32 - A MULTICOLOR BEADED AND EMBROIDERED ‘IVAN’ COAT. LABELED ALICE + OLIVIA BY STACEY BENDET, CIRCA 2022
Lot 38: A RED SATIN AND MULTICOLOR SEQUIN-ADORNED “IRIS” SKIRT LABELED ALICE + OLIVIA BY STACEY BENDET, 2018
Lot 38: A RED SATIN AND MULTICOLOR SEQUIN-ADORNED “IRIS” SKIRT LABELED ALICE + OLIVIA BY STACEY BENDET, 2018

A heavily beaded and embroidered coat by Stacey Bendet for Alice & Olivia in 2022 was also fought for by bidders and reached $6,048 against a $400-600 estimate.

Another garment by this designer was an eye-catching A-line skirt detailed with Iris’ own embroidered and sequinned portrait sold for $7,560.

Jewellery

Another layer of Apfel’s iconic style was of course her jewellery. This sale featured sixteen lots of jewellery, all beautifully bold and eye-catching!

Group lots of brightly coloured lucite bangles, costume jewellery acquired from travels to Eastern Europe, the Middle East, China and the Hindu Kush region, beaded necklaces, rhinestone suites, and Southwestern American jewels were all a part of this spectacular offering of stylish jewellery.

Lot 158 - A MIXED GROUP OF TURQUOISE COLORED JEWELRY IN LUCITE, RESIN AND SILVERED METAL
Lot 158 - A MIXED GROUP OF TURQUOISE COLORED JEWELRY IN LUCITE, RESIN AND SILVERED METAL

The top-selling lot for the jewellery was this wonderful selection of turquoise, lucite and resin costume jewellery. Featuring an Alexis Bittar bangle, Jianhui London necklaces and bracelet, Rara Avis bracelets, blue hardstone studded lucite cuffs and bangle among others, this beautiful collection sold for $9,450 against an estimate of $300-500.

Pieces from Apfel’s own line of costume jewellery Rara Avis, originally sold through the Home Shopping Network were also amongst the lots on offer. Her playful lucite bangles set with googly eyes were trademark Iris and one of the most popular designs from Rara Avis at the time. These typically retail on the secondary market between $300-400, however with the added provenance, this lot of fifteen bangles (six by Rara Avis) sold for $6,300.

Lot 14 - A GROUP OF MULTICOLOR LUCITE BANGLES.
Lot 14 - A GROUP OF MULTICOLOR LUCITE BANGLES.

To arrange a jewellery valuation, call us on 01883 722736 or email us on [email protected].

Old Masters Sales December 2024

I was very alarmed when I previewed the December Old Master sales in London that there weren’t many pictures, no masterpieces and too high a percentage of pictures were in less than perfect state.

What was going to happen? I felt very discouraged. I have talked before about the effects of geo-politics and the economy on the timing of Old Master sales, but why weren’t there more paintings appearing out of necessity – the old 3D chestnuts of death, divorce and destitution? Sotheby’s had just 26 lots of which two were of prints and two of late 19th Century pictures, hardly Old Masters. Christie’s was the same with 26 lots, one of which was sculpture and three late 19th Century pictures. The Day Sales were even thinner with sculpture, 19th Century paintings, watercolours, drawings and even Limoges enamels to bulk them out. It doesn’t bode well for the future.

As it happens, the sales, in relation to their estimates, were quite strong. Six lots failed to sell at Sotheby’s and the same at Christie’s, but there, the two auction houses diverge. The Sotheby’s total was £24.2M and Christie’s a very modest £13.99M.

Botticelli Madonna and Child
Sandro Botticelli Madonna and Child

The star of the Sotheby’s sale was a Botticelli Madonna and Child, that realized £9.96M; not far short of the Christie’s total. Botticelli is, of course, a magic name and this picture hadn’t been on the market for 120 years. They also had a handsome Stubbs of a Pointer in a Landscape. I love his work, but the colouring in this oil painting was most peculiar. The landscape, instead of being a vibrant green, as Constable would have painted it, was made up of smudgy pinks and browns, making it look like an aquatint! It made a sound £1.8M, nevertheless.

George Stubbs The Pointer
George Stubbs The Pointer

Christie’s had a powerful oil sketch of a prancing horse by van Dyck, which had a hastily sketched landscape on the reverse, so the purchaser, at £3.4M, got two for the price of one. They also offered an unusual still life by Clara Peeters of a Stack of Cheeses. This made £655,000 against an estimate of £100-150,000, just showing the continuing interest in works by female artists, especially when they are slightly off-beat.

Van Dyck Prancing Horse
Van Dyck Prancing Horse
Clara Peeters A Stack of Cheese
Clara Peeters A Stack of Cheese

My favourite offering of the week was the pair of what I suppose one would call ‘fancy pictures’, rather than portraits, that Bonhams offered. They were of a girl selling watercress and a girl selling flowers by the German artist Johan Zoffany, who worked for many years in London and was a founder member of the Royal Academy. I had catalogued this pair of paintings 30 years ago and was very surprised and sad when they failed to sell then. This time round, having established that a distant ancestor of the vendor had bought them directly from the artist, they took wing at a very healthy £991,000 with premiums.

Johann Zoffany The Watercress Seller and The Flowergirl
Johann Zoffany The Watercress Seller and The Flowergirl

What do these results tell us?  That the supply of good/great  is diminishing, but there is a market for them and the prices are strong. The same cannot be said of third-rate Old Masters. There is almost no demand at all. It’s not just a price correction, there aren’t any bids.

There will be more Old Master news after the February sales in New York, which looked much more interesting than their London counterparts, when I viewed the best lots in London last week. In particular, Sotheby’s are selling the remnants of the celebrated collection of Aso Tivitian. He was a philanthropic, Armenian billionaire who made his money out of microchips. He started life in New York as a cab driver before getting a scholarship to Columbia University. He has left a painting to the Frick and one to the Met in New York and over 330 works of art to the Clark Art Institute in Williamstown, Massachusetts.

The “remnants” are by no means lesser fry, they just don’t fit with the public collections he has supported. They are significant paintings in a wonderful state of preservation. He also collected great English furniture and European sculpture. Their sale should give us a more accurate idea of how much taste there is for Old Masters, currently.

The Anglesey Necklace

Inside the Record-Breaking Sale of the Anglesey Necklace

Sotheby’s Royal & Noble Jewels Sale took place in Geneva on Wednesday 13th November. This historic sale presented a spectacular selection of historic fine jewellery, with provenance relating to several royal and noble families, including Tsar Ferdinand of Bulgaria and his family, Countess Mona Bismarcak, King Umberto II of Italy, the Ducal House of Bavaria and the Princely Thurn und Taxis family. Featuring 174 lots, this auction featured a stunning selection of tiaras, necklaces, rings, suites, cufflinks, tie pins, cigarette cases, seals, pocket watches and many more jewels with illustrious provenance.

The Anglesey Necklace

The Anglesey Necklace
Formerly in the Collection of the Marquess of Anglesey. A Rare, Historic and Highly Important 18th century jewel. 1,600,000 - 2,200,000 CHF

Designed as a pair of old cushion-shaped diamond tassels connected by three rows of collet-set old cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds, length approximately 670mm, fitted case.

Undoubtedly the most anticipated lot of the sale was the Anglesey Necklace. This highly important and historic jewel is an incredibly rare survivor of the Georgian court, set with a breathtaking 300 carats of diamonds and crafted with hugely innovative techniques for the time. An outstanding jewel to be in private hands, this piece has been known as the Anglesey Necklace, owned by the Paget family for centuries, thence a private collector, and offered for auction as the centrepiece to this historical sale. Estimated at 1,600,000 – 2,200,000 CHF (£1.4 to 1.9 million), this significant Georgian necklace finally sold at 3,550,000 CHF (£3,154,246.00).

Formerly in the collection of the Marquess of Anglesey, the Anglesey Necklace has featured in two important jewellery exhibitions of the 20th century, first in 1959 as part of The Ageless Diamond Loan exhibition in London, sitting alongside many famous Royal and aristocratic diamond jewels including the Williamson Pink Diamond and the brooch set with the Cullinan III and IV diamonds belonging to Queen Elizabeth II. Twenty years later in 1979, the necklace featured in the American Museum of Natural History’s Bicentennial Exhibition.

A Marie Antoinette Connection? The lore of the Anglesey Necklace

The lore surrounding this jewel carried a huge significance and of course an impact on the subsequent value. Although there is no formal or documented evidence of a connection between the Anglesey necklace and the jewel that sparked the French Revolution, there are of course compelling factors that could plausibly link the two.

The sheer grandeur and scale of this piece narrows down the few noble ladies who could have owned this jewel. Set with nearly 300 carats of rare, Golconda diamonds (the South African mines were not discovered until 1867) and encased within unconventional, innovative and cutting-edge open back settings to allow the full radiance of these valuable stones.

There are no documents detailing this piece in the collection of the Paget family until the later part of the 19th century. From its creation in the late 18th century, this is a monumental jewel to not be featured in inventories and documents of the time. As Sotheby’s point out,

“it is unclear exactly how the Paget family came in possession of this diamond jewel, a link to the first Marquess seems plausible given its date.”

In 1785, a diamond necklace created for Marie Antoinette was stolen in Paris. Records show that six months later, a London jeweller William Gray purchased 300 diamonds from the Marie Antoinette necklace totalling 600 stones. Stylistically, the tassels on the Anglesey necklace and the sketches of Marie Antoinettes necklaces do appear incredibly similar, which adds to this compelling tale.

More recently, in American-born British conservative politician and society figure, Sir Henry “Chips” Channon’s diary published in 2022, there is reference to this seeming connection. He mentions a part of Queen Marie Antoinette’s infamous necklace,

“at least two ropes of it, the rest, according to history, was broken up before the French Revolution but I believe the Anglesey tassels, which Marjorie sometimes wears, are a part of it.” 

Marjorie Paget, Marchioness of Anglesey
Marjorie Paget, Marchioness of Anglesey

Sir Cecil Beaton photographed the Anglesey Necklace, as it was then known, being worn as a négligé by the glamorous and sophisticated Marjorie Paget, Marchioness of Anglesey, during George VI’s coronation 1937. The necklace was also worn at Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953.

Irrespective of the alleged connection to the French Revolution, the Anglesey Necklace is a rare survivor of an incredibly opulent Georgian Court. Designed to be worn in many ways, knotted at the neck, worn as a négligé, draped over the back, or even as a belt, this superb diamond necklace is without a doubt “one of the most outstanding Georgian jewels” (Andres White Correal – Head of Royal and Noble Jewels, Chairman, Sotheby’s Jewellery), and a historic result at auction for jewellery of the period.

To find out more about our jewellery valuation service by calling us on 01883 722736 or emailing [email protected]

Elisabetta Sirani

The Legacy of Elisabetta Sirani: Art, Fame, and Mystery

This week’s female artist is the fascinating Elisabetta Sirani (1638-1665).

She was born in Bologna on January 8th 1638 to Margherita and Giovanni Andrea Sirani. Fortunately for her, her father Gian’Andrea Sirani was a favourite pupil of Guido Reni and took over his practice as teacher and master in the first Life School in Bologna. Naturally, Elisabetta studied under her father and, therefore, absorbed the technique of Guido. She also studied the paintings of other great Bolognese baroque painters such as Annibale Carracci, Simone Cantarini and Carlo Cignani. She was well educated, liked music and was familiar with the Bible, lives of the Saints and classical mythology, all of which provided subject matter for her paintings.

By 1654, when she was only 16, she took over the running of her father’s workshop, as Giovanni Andrea had become incapacitated by Gout. I am not sure why Gout was so prevalent in previous centuries and caused so much trouble. Joseph Banks in the late 18th Century, for example, would take to a wheelchair for several months at a time. Enough on Gout!

Elisabetta Sirani Timoclea killing the Captain of Alexander the Great
Elisabetta Sirani – Self Portrait

From this moment on, Elisabetta, the eldest of four children became the family’s main breadwinner by a combination of income from her portraits and other commissions and tuition fees. She had more than a dozen pupils and set up the first lay, as opposed to convent, school for women artists. She was also a prolific painter, as well as celebrated teacher. She produced over 200 paintings, 13 altarpieces, 15 etchings and hundreds of drawings. In fact, she was so prolific that many people accused her of using pupils to paint the pictures, which was, after all, standard studio practice. However, Elisabetta tended to sign her pictures and in order to rebuke the accusations that she did not paint them herself, invited her accusers on May 13th 1664 to her studio to watch her paint a portrait in a single sitting!

She became a celebrity and anyone of status visiting Bologna would ask to be invited to her studio to watch her at work. Her clientele was made up of Kings, Princes, Dukes, Cardinals, rich merchants and the church, not only from Bologna but across Europe. All of this is surprising, as she was dead by the age of 27. The cause of her death is the subject of mystery and speculation. Some say she was poisoned by a jealous maid, others that she developed ulcers because of her excessive workload.

Elisabetta Sirani – Madonna and Child
Portia wounding her thigh

In any event, the city of Bologna went into mourning at her death and she was given a most elaborate funeral. A massive catafalque was created with a life size sculpture of Elisabetta inside it. There was music composed in her honour by the most famous musicians in Bologna and orations and poems written in honour of the “Lamented Paintbrush”. She was buried in the Basilica of San Domenico in Bologna, in the same tomb as Guido Reni, who had been her father’s tutor.

A word on the Catafalque (temple of honour)

What we are looking at is a design for the catafalque by Matteo Borboni (c.1610-1667) who oversaw the decorations for her funeral. The finished monument was made of wood painted to look like marble and the life-size statue of Elisabetta at her easel was made of wax. This gives you some idea of the scale of the temple and the high regard in which Elisabetta “Gem of Italy” was held.

If you are lucky enough to own one of her paintings, make sure it is properly insured. An average Madonna and Child is worth between £50,000 and £80,000. The top price at auction is $505,000 for “Portia wounding her thigh”, sold at Sotheby’s New York in 2008.

A drawing of Elisabetta’s Catafalque by Matteo Barboni (1610-1667)
Sothebys Pop Culture Auction September 2024

Sotheby’s Pop Culture Sale: A Star-Studded Auction from Music to Film

During September, Sotheby’s London held their inaugural ‘Popular Culture’ sale.

The market for memorabilia has been a focus for international auction houses in recent years. Sotheby’s historically was one of the first major players in memorabilia but chose to move away from the field in the early 2000s. Recently, with several highly successful sales internationally and after the unprecedented interest generated by last year’s Freddie Mercury auction, Sotheby’s announced in early 2024 the introduction of their European Popular Culture department.

This first online auction contained 65 lots from across the spectrum of music, television, and film memorabilia. The exhibition preview drew over 1,000 visitors making it clear the appeal of Pop Culture for potential buyers.

The earliest pieces were early 1960s Beatles related memorabilia – while the most modern was a costume from the yet to be release Gladiator II.

One of the most eye-catching pieces was a CyberMaster helmet worn in the 2022 series of Doctor Who! (Lot 61). The CyberMaster’s are villainous characters with a design reminiscent of the iconic Cybermen – instantly recognisable to Sci-Fi fans. The lot had been donated by the BBC to the auction and was one of several items sold to benefit the Film + Television Charity, who support those who working behind the scenes in the industry. The combination of a charitable cause and striking headwear led to the lot exceeding its estimate of £4,000 – 6,000 – fetching £9,600 (inc. BP).

Sotheby’s London, Popular Culture, August/September 2024, Lot 62, Gladiator II: A Screen-used Hero Costume for the Rhino-Riding Gladiator ‘Glyceo’, Paramount Pictures, 2024, £9,600
Sotheby’s London, Popular Culture, August/September 2024, Lot 61, Doctor Who: A CyberMaster Helmet, BBC Studios, 2022, £9,600

Other lots sold on behalf of the Film + Television Charity were the (aforementioned) complete costume used in the highly anticipated Gladiator II (Lot 62). The movie is due for release in November 2024 – the costume providing a sneak preview into production quality and characters. It is rare for a complete outfit to appear at auction prior to the film’s premiere. The costume has been visible in the trailer and will feature as uniform of a gladiator ‘Glyceo’ who can be seen riding a rhinoceros into an arena prior to battle. This lot was an opportunity to acquire a piece from a future classic. Against the estimate of £5,000 – 8,000 it achieved a total of £9,600 (inc. BP).

Vinyl proved popular with collectors during sale – and indicated the ongoing strength of this market.

Lot 28 was an example of a collectable sought by Beatles and vinyl aficionados alike – a sealed 1st state copy of the controversial ‘Yesterday And Today’ LP.  This version of the album has a sleeve dubbed the ‘Butcher Cover’. It was one of the most shocking images of The Beatles and the era. Released by Capitol Records in Canada and the USA in 1966 the cover photograph for ‘Yesterday and Today’ was taken by Robert Whitaker (1939-2011).

Lot 33 was a Steinway grand piano, manufactured in 1972 and purchased by EMI for use at their Abbey Road Studios in 1973. The piano, which was installed in Studio 3, was in constant use from 1973 to 2016. The quality of the piano, appreciate by those recording on it.

The Steinway Model A was used on recordings of notable artists including Pink Floyd, Radiohead, Amy Winehouse, Paul McCartney, Kanye West and Lady Gaga amongst others. Pieces used at Abbey Road seldom appear at auction and garner high prices. The estimate of £150,000 – 200,000 proved accurate with the eventual total cost being £192,000.

Queen collectables have been a growth area over the past decade. Lot 39 was a Jean Paul Gautier designed leather jacket. The garment was worn by Freddie Mercury during his final stage singing performance, in April 1988. This jacket had been gifted by Freddie to a close friend, she had subsequently donated it to charity and the provenance stated it had benefited the Angles Aids Orphanage in 2001. Here against the estimate of £20,000 – 30,000 it sold for £72,000.

Lot 37 was a good set of four autographed promotional photographs of the band. Despite the estimate of £6,000 – 8,000 they sold for £22,800. Meanwhile, lot 34 was a varied collection 325 polaroid photographs of stars, obtained during the 1970s – 1980s. The collection not only included the members of Queen, but also The Rolling Stones, The Eurythmics, Status Quo, Bee Gees, Run D.M.C but actors and sports stars such as Muhammed Ali, Michael Caine, and Ben Kingsley. This unique archive sold for £108,000 (*est. £20,000 – 30,000).

Two important musical instruments achieved the highest prices of the auction.

Lot 33, Abbey Road Studios, A Steinway Model A Grand Piano Housed And Used In Studio 3, 1973-2016, £192,000

The image, depicts The Beatles in white lab coats, surrounded by decapitated dolls and butchered meat. It was created as a black humoured, surrealist breakaway from the usual images of the group and apparently inspired by Whitaker’s own reflections on Beatlemania.

So shocking was the image to audiences it was swiftly withdrawn and recalled. To save costs, many of the ‘Butcher Cover’ sleeves were overlayed with a new photograph of the band, known by collectors as the ‘Trunk Cover’ – a rather vanilla image of The Beatles surrounding a steamer trunk.

Sotheby’s London, Popular Culture, August/September 2024, Lot 28, The Beatles: A Rare ‘Yesterday And Today’, First State Sealed Mono Alan Livingston Copy, 1966, £48,000

Lot 36 was a rare, limited edition 7” blue vinyl copy of Queen’s ‘Bohemian Rhapsody / I’m In Love With My Car’. Only two hundred pressings of this blue vinyl were produced by EMI. They were created as gifts for the attendees of a dinner held at Selfridges in July 1978. Despite Queen not attending the event, they were presented with framed copies – Freddie’s own (numbered 2) appearing in last year’s Freddie Mercury auction and selling for £69,850.

The copy for offered here, numbered 108, was presented to a typist secretary who worked at EMI’s Hayes offices. Included with the lot, were a further gift from the dinner two ‘EMI Records’ branded wine glasses – the lot far exceeded the pre-sale estimate of £5,000 – 7,000 eventually reaching £18,000.

Lot 36, Queen: A Rare Blue Vinyl Pressing Of The Single ‘Bohemian Rhapsody / I’m In Love With My Car’, 1978, £18,000

The version of the LP available here was a rare unopened and sealed copy of the ‘Butcher Cover’ record. The lot had been part of the collection of the former President of Capitol Records. This piece had been intended to be returned to the factory and pasted over, with the ‘Trunk Cover’ image. Instead, it was taken home by the record companies President, and subsequently forgotten – only to be discovered years later, alongside thirteen other LP’s (four stereo and ten mono).

The pre-sale guide of £40,000 – 60,000 reflected the scarcity of the piece, eventually selling for £48,000 (inc. BP).

Timing can be everything with auctions – three guitars contained within the sale had important Oasis provenance. Their sale was announced coincidentally as Oasis revealed their reformation and 2025 reunion tour.

Sotheby’s London, Popular Culture, August/September 2024, Lot 43, Oasis: An Epiphone Les Paul Standard Electric Guitar, Owned & Used By Noel Gallagher, £132,000
Sotheby’s London, Popular Culture, August/September 2024, Lot 44, Oasis: An Epiphone EA-250 Electric Guitar, Owned & Stage-Played By Noel Gallagher, £48,000
Sotheby’s London, Popular Culture, August/September 2024, Lot 45, Oasis/Johnny Marr: A Gibson Flying V Electric Guitar Formerly Owned By Johnny Marr, Used By Noel Gallagher, £36,000

All these instruments had previously belonged to or been used by Oasis’s, legendary founder, songwriter, and guitarist Noel Gallagher. The most important of these was lot 43 an Epiphone Les Paul Standard – immediately recognisable to fans and a seminal instrument for the group. The guitar was key in the band’s early history (1993/4) when Noel Gallagher owned only a small number of guitars (just two guitars and a bass being available the group). Noel played it on stage, on television, as well as during the recording of the music video for the record breaking single ‘Supersonic’.

With a pre-sale estimate of £60,000 – 80,000 it achieved the second highest price of the auction at £132,000.

The other two instruments offered by Sotheby’s included Lot 44 an Epiphone EA-250, previously owned by Noel Gallagher and again featured on the sleeve of the ‘Supersonic’ single. It was notably played during an early television performance in July 1994. Here, the cherry redburst finished guitar sold for £48,000 (est. £20,000 – £30,000).

Lot 45 had a dual Smiths / Oasis provenance. The 1980 Gibson Flying V was acquired by The Smith’s iconic guitarist and songwriter, Johnny Marr in 1989. Marr loaned it to Noel Gallagher – who subsequently used it on the 1994 recording of Oasis’s debut album ‘Definitely Maybe’. This guitar, a baton in British and Manchester music history sold for £36,000 (est. £20,000 – 30,000).

Overall, the sale achieved a total of just under £1 million.

Coining it in: How a routine valuation unearthed a six-figure valuation

Coining it in: How a Routine Valuation Unearthed a Six-Figure Treasure

A recent discovery by one of our experienced valuers, Alastair Meiklejon during a Walk-Through Valuation,  led to an exceptional financial opportunity for our client, highlighting the crucial importance of the need for everyone to have a valuation and greater understanding of their assets.

The item, part of an inherited collection, had never been insured and was presented to Alastair alongside several other pieces during the assessment. The owner, unaware of its true value, had initially dismissed it as insignificant.

However, due to Alastair’s sharp attention to detail, this valuable asset was uncovered, turning what could have been an overlooked piece into an exciting opportunity, weeks of discovery and a big decision for our client.

Read on to discover Alastair’s account of this remarkable find.

“If there is a specific thing that fills me with an equal mix of terror and expectation it’s an unchecked or unloved box/bag of coins….

While the market for coin collecting seems to have become less popular over the last few years, it is clear that amongst the higher echelons of the hobby – it has boomed – with the rarest of coins hitting the highest prices ever known.

This brings me to one of my favourite encounters with coins, or in fact for any items I have dealt with – and it happened earlier this year.

It happened during a Walk Through Valuation – a brilliant product that presents a great option for clients to get a good overview of the items they have in their property, without needing to have a full valuation. While it doesn’t offer such an in-depth report, it does cover a lot within the three or so hours needed to complete it, and this was one such valuation that was worth its weight in gold.

And, as I was to discover, this was worth far more than that…

The client presented me with a box containing a few gold coins, and whilst this isn’t unusual, there was a good collection of American Double Eagles. These are usually considered to be a pretty good find in most valuations, however there was more at the bottom of the box.

There in an unassuming taped-up box, with ‘Polish Money’ scribbled on the tape, was what could well be one of the biggest numismatic discoveries of the last decade.

King Sigismund III of Poland and Lithuania ruled from 1587-1632, and like all good leaders, autocrats and despots – he loved a gold coin with his face on it, usually to commemorate a battle or something along those lines.

One of these such coins was a 10 ducat piece, one of the most valuable pieces of its time and usually given as an award to dignitaries or important people to the crown. This specific coin has been described as commemorating ‘The Siege of Moscow’ and ‘Treaty of Dywilino’ and was minted in 1618.

Polish/Lithuanian 10 Ducat piece

So, if you can picture the racing heart and brain overload when before me, in a small brown box was one of these coins. The client was from a Polish family who had to come to Britain in the 1930s following Nazi persecution, and sat me down to tell me the history of the coin, and the family.

Whilst I cannot give too much away, the heart-wrenching story of something that was all too common less than a hundred years ago is still fresh in my mind to this very day, and in my mind adds to the historical value, if not the financial value.

So, what happened next?

After discussion with the client and authentication from one of the most knowledgeable coin academics in the world, it was decided that for them to keep the coin would be too much of a risk and the part it could play in changing the lives of the owners was too much to ignore.

The coin was featured as the final lot in Spink’s Coinex auction in London on September 26th. With nearly 700 items up for sale, it was a lengthy auction, but this coin stole the spotlight. Bidding opened robustly at £85,000 online, even before the live auction kicked off. However, what followed exceeded all expectations. Not only did the final bid shatter the top estimate, but it also set a new world record; it was the most valuable Polish coin to sell at auction! The coin ultimately sold for an astounding £130,000, delivering an unforgettable result for the client.”

 

You can watch the moment the gavel went down here:

Castellani Micromosaic Brooch

Jewellery Pick of the week – Castellani Micromosaic Brooch

This week’s pick is an extraordinary micromosaic brooch by Castellani I had the delight of discovering in an inherited collection. Much to our surprise, amongst the treasured and loved jewellery was an original box containing this perfectly well kept brooch. The brooch is circular and set throughout with blue and red micromosaic, in closed-back setting, only 3cm in diameter.

Castellani Micromosaic Brooch

A red and blue micromosaic brooch by Castellani

So why is it so special?

Firstly due to its age. Dating from the 1860s, it is extremely rare to not miss at least one tesserae in a micromosaic piece, let alone one that has been around for 170 years.

Castellani Micromosaic Brooch

The above brooch was sold at Christie’s in 2011 for Euro 31,040, against an estimate of Euro 8,000-12,000, and had a missing tile.

No dents are present in the item’s soft gold, which is another key aspect of its uniqueness.

And it is also signed on the back with a double C (no Chanel was not the first one to use a double C as a maker’s mark!).

Castellani Micromosaic BroochCastellani Micromosaic Brooch
A brooch by Castellani

Castellani’s founder, Fortunato Pio Castellani, opened up shop in Rome in 1814 and is commonly described as launching the archaeological revival movement in jewellery. This passion came a few years after opening his shop, hearing his friend Michaelango Caetani speak about recreating gold to look ancient. With the opening of the Etruscan Regolini- Galassi tombs in 1836, Castellani was granted access to view the jewellery. With further fascination for archaeological finds, Castellani’s jewellery became more and more popular.

Using various exquisite techniques, such as wiring and granulation, Castellani was able to imitate ancient jewellery. The week’s brooch has a ropetwist border, adding to it a sense of completion.

So what’s the price tag on such a rare piece?

At auction, the item would be valued at £1,500-2,500. A similar example sold for £2,375 including premium in 2018 at Bonhams. It was orange on a blue background.

Castellani Micromosaic Brooch
A orange and blue micromosaic brooch by Castellani

Another piece is currently for sale privately for over £18,000. This brooch is blue and green.

Castellani Micromosaic Brooch
A green and blue micromosaic brooch by Castellani

And though I was able to find two almost identical pieces for sale, over a decade separates their sale date. Which goes to show how rare brooches of this style and make are. If you find one… Grab it and keep the box!

 

Old Master Sales July 2024

The Old Master market, judging by the London sales in early July, continues to be split between the desirable and the unloved. The Day Sales, for the “unloved” were very flat affairs. Christie’s managed a total of £3.489M for 170 lots, with 36 unsold – mostly sculptures and watercolours, which they now include with oil paintings as there is such a dearth of viable lots; while Sotheby’s total was £2.178M for 182 lots, 65 of which were bought in.

The evening sales painted a much rosier picture, with only 10 out of 58 lots failing to sell on the day, although they may have found buyers, subsequently. Christie’s had much the better sale, in fact, their wonderful Titian of The Rest on The Flight into Egypt made over £5M more than the whole of the Sotheby’s sale! It was estimated at £15-25M and was knocked down for £17.56M including buyer’s premium. Other star lots at Christie’s include the beautiful Quentin Metsys of The Madonna of the Cherries which made £10.66M including buyer’s premium to the Getty Museum, against an estimate of £8-12M. It is interesting to note that this picture was offered by Christie’s in 2015 described as a studio work and made £200,000. At that time, a green curtain, painted at a later date, obscured the beautiful landscape seen through the window. Subsequent cleaning and restoration have revealed that this is the prime version of a much-copied composition. There was also a handsome Frans Hals Portrait of a Gentleman, which made a solid £5.7M.

It was a bad week for George Stubbs the great Liverpudlian, 18th Century horse painter, however. His magnificent Mares and Foals offered by Christie’s with an estimate of £7-10M failed to find a buyer, as did the fine double horse portrait by him offered at Sotheby’s with an estimate of £400,000-600,000.

The Christie’s evening sale achieved a very healthy £43,594,800, which was their best result for 10 years, while Sotheby’s total was a less impressive £12.366M.

One of my favourite pictures of the week, was the view of a Baroque Sculpture Gallery by the Dordrecht painter Samuel van Hoogstraten, which made £356,000 including buyer’s premium at Bonhams. Hoogstraten was a man of many talents, poet, painter, art theoretician and sometime pupil of Rembrandt. There is a wonderful trompe l’oeil, peep show with views of the Interior of a 17th Century Dutch House, by him in the National Gallery, London. It is well worth a visit.

The message from the week’s sales is that if you have a masterpiece by an Old Master make sure the insurance value is high enough and if you have works by minor masters, check current values to make sure your premium isn’t too high.

 

Read more articles about Old Masters here.

Vivienne Westwood the Personal Collection - A Review

Vivienne Westwood the personal collection – a review

June is one of the most important months in the European fashion calendar with Milan Men’s Fashion week and Paris Haute Couture Week, showcasing forthcoming styles.

This year, however, perhaps the more significant occasion for fashion historians took place at Christie’s, London – the sale of the personal collection of British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood.

 

Dame Vivienne Westwood (1941-2022) was a seminal British fashion designer and linchpin of the Punk movement. Her designs simultaneously captured and redefined quintessential British fashion.

The Christie’s auction included pieces worn by Vivienne Westwood from her own collections. The auction was offered in two parts, Part I – a live day sale (including 95 lots) held on 25th June and Part II – an online auction (including 179 lots) closing on the 28th June 2024.

Proceeds from the sale were to be donated to a number of charities important to Westwood: Amnesty International, Medecins Sans Frontieres, Greenpeace and The Vivienne Foundation.

The highest price achieved during the auction reflected these values. Lot 1 – ‘THE BIG PICTURE – Vivienne’s Playing Cards, Collect the Cards, Connect the Cards’ – a series of 10 signed digital prints. Though conceived in 2017, they were printed in 2024 – with Vivienne signing the blank sheets prior to printing in 2022. Each suit was designed by Vivienne to represent those who have had a positive or negative impact on humanity and the environment. The prints used images and symbols recognisable from her career spanning six decades. With 100% of the sale proceeds being donated to Greenpeace, the lot had a total selling price of £37,800.

Her route to becoming one of fashions leading figures, was much like Vivienne herself, unconventional.

She was born in Cheshire, spending her childhood between Cheshire and the county of Derbyshire. When Vivienne was 17, her father took the decision to move his family to Harrow (now in Greater London). She attended Harrow School of Art to study fashion but did not enjoy the course or believe a woman would be able to earn a living with this career. After a spell working in a factory, Vivienne chose primary school teaching as an alternative occupation (sharing her knowledge seemed to be a lifelong endeavour – she continued to teach fashion throughout her life – fashion designer Bella Freud described her as “the greatest teacher I have ever known” [Vogue, December 2022]).

Vivienne Westwood continued to make her own clothes, by the early 1960s was married with a son. During the mid 1960s she met Malcolm McClaren – the man influential on her perception of the possibilities of art and fashion – he would become her second husband.

The pair collaborated on a vision of an entire shop (developed from McClaren’s existing stall) – selling clothes, memorabilia and 1950s inspired pieces for the rebellious, located on at 430 Kings Road, Chelsea. This location was to change the course of fashion and music history – and would be connected with the Vivienne Westwood brand throughout her career.

The shop’s first incarnation dubbed ‘Let It Rock!’ opened in 1971. With each changing collection the store changed its name (‘Too Fast to Live to Young to Die’ 1973, ‘Sex’ 1974 – 1976, and ‘Seditionaries’ 1976 – 1980), – becoming a focal point for the burgeoning punk movement. For these later incarnations Vivienne created what we would now call the Punk Aesthetic – with fetish wear, graphic designs, and accessories of chains and safety pins. The band the Sex Pistols were formed by Malcolm McClaren through the shop (members Glen Matlock and Sid Vicious both worked there) and their name chosen in part to promote it.

By the early 1980’s Vivienne Westwood was not yet a household name and her innovations generally under appreciated. As punk faded, a new scene grew – dubbed by Vivienne ‘New Romantic’. The shop rebranded to ‘World’s End’.

Vivienne held her first fashion collection ‘Pirates’ in 1981.

Christie’s chose to sell Vivienne’s wardrobe in chronologic order – with the earliest dating ensemble created as part of the ‘Witches’ collection (1983) (her first to be shown in Paris and her final collaboration with McClaren).

Lot 2 was from the ‘Witches collection – A navy blue two-piece outfit bearing the ‘World’s End’ label, estimated at £4,000 – 6,000. The garments had been inspired by Vivienne’s meeting artist Keith Haring in late 1982. The total selling price here was £8,190.

Prior to the sale the viewing was packed with celebrities and Sartorialists looking to add to their collections, or simply get a glimpse of a career in microcosm – the sale more typical of a V&A exhibition than auction.

During the preview Christie’s projected one of Vivienne’s quote’s ‘The art lover is a freedom fighter’. With portraiture in mind, Christie’s displayed pieces from the Vivienne Westwood auction alongside paintings included in their forthcoming Old Masters sale. Lot 30 a dress created for the Autumn/ Winter 1998/ 1999 ‘Dressed to Scale’ collection was viewed alongside Sir Peter Lely’s ‘Portrait of Barbara Villiers’ [Lot 20, Old Masters, Christie’s, 2nd July 2024, £567,000]). The corseted piece of silk taffeta fetched the highest price for clothing realising £32,720.

Similarly, two lots included clothing from the AW 1997/8 ‘Five Centuries Ago’ Collection. This show was directly inspired by garments depicted in Tudor and Jacobean portraiture, which had been exhibited at the Tate Gallery in 1996. Lot 23 was a flannel two-piece suit worn by Vivienne on the runway at the close of this show. Estimated at £2,000 – 3,000 it achieved £8,190. Whilst lot 23 a black and gold brocade dress sold for £8,820 (against an estimate of £1,200 – 1,800).

Lot 4 was a three-strand faux pearl necklace and matching earrings produced for the Autumn / Winter 1991/1992 ‘Portrait’ collection. Vivienne had worn the jewellery during publicity for her Swatch Watch campaign – again showing the impact of historic imagery and faux pearls becoming part of her signature style. Estimate at £800 – 1,200 the set sold for £5,040.

The Orb is the symbol most closely associated with the Vivienne Westwood brand. It was conceived in 1986 and first appeared in the ‘Harris Tweed’ Autumn/ Winter 1987/ 1988 collection. Several lots of costume jewellery were available with the Orb central to the design. Lot 9 (estimated at £600 – 900) was a knuckle duster orb ring, created in 1992. Now instantly recognisable as a Vivienne Westwood piece, it sold for £4,043. Lots 10, an orb choker, and 11, a pair of orb earrings, both from the 1993/4 ‘Anglomania’ collection, sold for £10,080 and £4,788 respectively.

This ‘Anglomania’ collection was the first to feature Vivienne’s own tartan – again a style now synonymous with the brand – and marked the beginning of her creative partnership with husband Andreas Kronthaler (which would continue over their almost 35 years together). Vivienne met Andreas in 1988 whilst teaching fashion design in Vienna. The tartan was named ‘McAndreas’ after him and produced by weavers Locharron. Lot 12 was a two-piece tartan suit utilising the fabric, here selling for £5,292 (inc. BP).

The ‘Anglomania’ show was memorable, due to Naomi Campbell’s catwalk tumble whilst wearing a pair of super elevated platform shoes. Lot 13 was a velvet jacket, identical to that worn by Campbell during the show, offered together with a blouse. Estimate at £800 – 1,200 it sold for £11,340.

Several pairs of platform shoes were included in the auction – the highest price achieved for footwear was lot 39 – A pair of brown leather ‘Animal Toe’ heeled ‘Trainer Shoes’ from the AW 2002/3 ‘Anglophilia’ Collection. These sold for £6,048.

From the same collection and inspired by Elizabeth II Golden Jubilee celebrations was lot 40 – a complete ensemble from the Gold Label, against a pre-sale guide of £1,500 – 2,500 it sold for £13,860.

Lot 68 was given special attention during the viewing and placed in a space alone. The satin ‘Cinderella’ dress in ice blue colour was created as part of the 2011 ‘Gaia The Only One’ collection. Taking influence from ballet and 18th century fashion it achieved ten times its mid estimate figure selling for a total of £25,200.

Part I was a white glove, 100% sold auction – achieving a sale total including buyer’s premium of £465,192.

Part II included further items from Vivienne’s collection – many of them being individual garments and accessories.

Lot 105 was of costume jewellery produced for the 1993 ‘Grand Hotel’ collection and reflected Vivienne Westwood’s earlier career. The ‘Sex’ choker and earrings sold for £7,560 (inc B.P).

Several of the pieces could have been purchased for inclusion in a contemporary wardrobe. Lot 193 was a striking blanket coat from the AW 2004/5 ‘Exhibition’ collection. The graphic fabric, in a punk / graffiti inspired motif, sold for £4,410 (inc. B.P).

From the later part of Westwood’s career was an unusual handmade headdress designed for AW 2017/18 (lot 258). Inscribed ‘Ecotric’ in felt pen and manufactured from pieces associated with waste, it achieved £2,520.

A lot which seemed to show how 1950s style continued to influence Westwood was 104 – a faux leopard fur coat from the AW 1991/2 ‘Dressing Up’ collection. Here the estimate was £1,500 – 2,500, it achieved £6,930.

Lot 162 showed the cross-over in Westwood collections of punk symbolism, with historical classical inspired pieces and contemporary prints. From the ‘Summertime’ collection, Spring/ Summer 2000 it included a long sleeve Lycra top and a silk skirt – selling for within estimate at £2,142.

An ensemble which highlighted the continuing influence of the punk style alongside the importance of her environmental message was lot 232 – a jersey t-shirt from the 2012 ‘War and Peace’ collection. Printed with the Gaia family tree and a climate change map of the world, it realised £2,016.

Towards the end of the auction were several pieces designed by Vivienne Westwood’s husband and current brand Creative Director, Andreas Kronthaler. Produced for Vivienne Westwood label and from Vivienne’s wardrobe, lot 272, a brass necklace with tooth shaped charms from ‘Rock Me Amadeus’ Collection, 2020 – the estimate here was £500 – 800 but total price of £3,276.

The highest price achieved during the online auction was not for clothing, but for the neon sign, specially commissioned by Christie’s to display at the King Street headquarters. In two pieces, totalling over 10 meters in diameter, it was not included in the printed catalogue, despite this it eventually sold for £30,240 (inc. BP).

As with Part I – Part II was 100% sold achieving a total of £289,296, bringing the combined figure for the two sales to just over £750k.

 

Read more articles by Stephanie Connell.