K is for Kyanite

Introduction

K is for – Kyanite, a gemstone which is more frequently being used in modern jewellery and is a favourite of designers such a Pippa Small. But what is this beautiful blue stone and what do you need to know about caring for it?

Colour

Sometimes mistaken for sapphire, kyanite was named in 1789 by Abraham Gottlieb Werner and is derived from the Greek word ‘kyanos’ which is in reference to its typically blue hue though it can also be found in other colours including green, grey and rarely yellow, pink and orange. A strongly pleochroic material, kyanite is a trichroic stone meaning three distinct colours can be seen depending on orientation though our eyes only allow us to distinguish two at a time. The orange variety often has weak pleochroism. Most material has a ‘glass-like’ vitreous or pearly lustre and is transparent to translucent.

Chemistry and Localities

Kyanite is an aluminium silicate mineral (Al2SiO5) and belongs to the triclinic crystal system, most commonly forming in sprays of blade-like crystals but distinct euhedral crystals can also be found and are highly prized by gem crystal collectors as specimens. Kyanite is the high-pressure preferring polymorph of the minerals Andalusite and Sillimanite, which means that the three minerals have the same chemical composition but different crystal systems. The most significant localities are Kenya, Mozambique, Madagascar and the USA.

Use as a Gemstone

Kyanite is difficult to facet and polish due to its perfect cleavage and differential hardness. When cut parallel to the c-axis (direction of growth), it has a hardness of 4 to 4.5 but when cut perpendicular to the c-axis, it has a hardness of 6 to 7.5. Whilst some material may be relatively free from inclusions, most kyanite seen in jewellery will be included or colourzoned. This is especially true of larger stones. A rare phenomenon called chatoyancy or ‘cat’s-eye’ has been reportedly found in some kyanites when cut en cabochon.

Due to its variable hardness and brittle nature, kyanite is not particularly suitable for wearing in rings or bracelets and a protective collet setting is preferable to minimise damage from wear. It is suitable for other jewellery items such as earrings and pendants which are less likely to encounter wear and tear of the stones.

Care should be taken when cleaning kyanite and they should not be placed in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Instead, a soft brush (a baby’s toothbrush is perfect) with some warm soapy water is recommended.

Other Uses

Kyanite is also used in refractory and ceramic products like high-refractory strength porcelain and other porcelains such as dentures and bathroom fixtures. Its resistance to heat also makes it useful in the manufacture of cutting wheels, insulators and abrasives.

Gem Testing

Although it was previously mentioned that kyanite could be visually mistaken for sapphire, gemmological testing easily confirms the identification of these materials. Kyanite has a refractive index of 1.710 to 1.735 whereas sapphire has a refractive index of 1.76 to 1.77. A difference in optical character along with specific gravity testing also distinguishes between the two.

Value

Lower quality, heavily included material can be purchased for a mere few pounds (GBP) per carat but cleaner, higher quality blue stones and rarer coloured kyanites can achieve hundreds of pounds per carat.

Photomicrography – What it is and how it helps us in determining the value of a gem

As a valuer and gemmologist I work with gemstones daily. Testing, grading and valuing coloured gems is a personal highlight of my work and it was around 5 years ago when testing a Ceylon sapphire that I first fell in love with photomicrography.

I noticed that viewing the stone under the microscope allowed me to dive deeper into understanding the gem and its value. Since then, what was a routine part of gem testing has become a hobby of mine and I can spend hours viewing one gemstone, trying to capture the perfect photomicrograph. In 2021 I was awarded second place in the Gem-A photography competition for this image.

So what is photomicrography?

Put simply, photomicrography is the photography of objects (gemstones in this case) under a microscope.

To begin, I start by thoroughly cleaning the gemstone or item of jewellery I am working on. It’s important not to have any dirt, grease, or dirt on the stone prior to inspection. I will then spend some time viewing the stone in several positions and angles to allow me to find the perfect inclusion scene for my photography. It’s not uncommon for me to spend 30 minutes just getting the perfect lighting and angle for my image. Sometimes I take several photographs at very slightly different focal lengths and then stack the images together using computer software. This can create a sense of depth within the finished piece. This image is made from a stack of 20 photomicrographs.

What can photomicrography tell us about a gemstone?

Natural or Synthetic?

With a higher level of zoom than a jeweller’s loupe, the microscope allows us a more in-depth view of the gem. This can allow us to determine if a gemstone is natural or synthetic; in this image of a synthetic ruby for example where we can see curved striae indicative of Verneuil Flame Fusion growth. In the case of natural stones, we may find crystal inclusions, colour-zoning and/or fingerprints. The microscope can also be a useful step in identifying synthetic diamonds.

Treatments

We can also detect treatments such as coating, dyeing and fracture filling. This image shows a natural ruby which has been lead-glass filled to improve its apparent clarity. This is an important treatment to be able to identify before carrying out any repairs as the filler is unstable and can degrade severely under high heat, like that of a jeweller’s torch – or by cleaning in ultrasonic or steam cleaners. You will see from the image that the surface of the stone appears ‘crazed’ under magnification. At a higher level of magnification we may also encounter bubbles within the glass, another tell-tale sign of treatment.

Heat treatment is considered a standard treatment within the trade for most gemstones but for sapphires and rubies most importantly, evidence of no heat treatment can increase the stone’s value greatly if the stone is otherwise of nice quality. This image shows undissolved rutile ‘silk’ inclusions within a Sri Lankan sapphire. This is evidence of no, or very low heat treatment and allowed me to value the stone accordingly.

In the following image we see amber containing ‘sun spangles’, which are indicative of heat treatment.

Origin Determination

Another important use of photomicrography is determining the origin of a gemstone. In this image we can see a three-phase inclusion which contains a liquid within a cavity, a gas, and a solid which in this case is a calcite crystal. There are also some blocky two-phase inclusions visible. This emerald was determined to be of Zambian origin. Determining the origin of a gemstone allows us to value it more accurately as some localities carry a premium, such as Colombian Muzo emeralds and Burmese sapphires and rubies from the infamous Mogok.

Let’s look at a price comparison to show how origin affects a gem’s value. In the case of this emerald from Zambia, the retail price per carat was £4950. The equivalent stone of same quality but with a Colombian origin would have a retail price per carat of £5850, that’s more than an 18% price difference.

Conclusion

For me, photomicrography is an incredibly useful tool which allows me to accurately value gemstones. But its also become a passion and something I thoroughly enjoy doing. I am always trying to improve on my image quality and find new stones with interesting inclusions which people may not have seen before. If you’d like to see more of my photomicrography, you can check out my Instagram page: Instagram.com/Sammantha_maclachlan_fga_ltd