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Designer Beach Bags 2024

Beach Bag Ready!!

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There’s nothing like a stylish, thoughtfully crafted beach bag to complete your resort wear ensemble and ensure all your personal essentials are within reach, and with the Great British Summer upon us we thought there was no better time to review this season’s most fabulous beach bags with a couple of rainy-day options thrown in, because, well, you know!

This year, the most sought-after brands have you covered, with Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Chanel offering this season’s most desirable beach bags and accessories with even a designer chocolate sauce for your ice cream.

Aside from the fact that a designer handbag can make a great investment, there are numerous factors to consider beyond your bag’s appearance when shopping for your perfect match. It makes it easier that most of the choices nowadays are as functional as they are chic. This year there are some beautiful vibrant options available, and it seems bigger is better.

Here’s our top designer beach bags, to suit any of your form and functional needs. Many of these are sure to become year-round accessories and the best part is they are all available to buy now, no wait list, even with Hermès!! So, let’s dive straight in!

Hermès

Hermès offer a fabulous range of beach bags and accessories and you can guarantee you will be the chicest person on the beach. Not only this but, a Hermès handbag always makes a great investment, with retail prices going up every year.

This season’s hottest selection comprises of:

Hermès From My Window.

Designed by Nigel Peake the collection is bold, colourful, and graphical which is a signature style of the artist with multiple perspectives being represented, with one or more windows opening out onto the world.

They are from cotton, canvas and wood, they are the perfect accessory for this summer, and they are also available to purchase directly from the website, with no wait list!

This example is retailing for £1,850.

Another great example by Hermès is the ‘Escale a a Plage’ beach bag, designed by Matthieu Cosses, in canvas and currently retails for £1,850, a bargain when compared to the price of a Birkin and Kelly.

Hermès not only have a wonderful collection of handbags but also beach towels with this bold and colourful example in Summer Games print, retailing for £600.

Christian Dior

Christian Dior produce some classic, timeless designs which always prove exceptionally popular, and like Hermès, their retail prices also increase in value every year, making them ever so popular on the open market.

The hat basket bag is made in Italy and stands out with its elegant silhouette combining functionality and refinement. It is hand-woven using artisanal techniques in natural wicker. The style features top handles and a blue Dior Oblique jacquard interior drawstring pouch. The Christian Dior Paris signature adorns the front. The spacious bag is completed by an adjustable and removable embroidered shoulder strap that allows it to be carried by hand, worn over the shoulder or crossbody. With the Christian Dior Paris signature on the front, it retails for £4,100.

Gucci

This year Gucci has taken its inspiration from the summer spirit and beach clubs on the Italian coast. The House’s straw accessories shed new light on the traditional material in vibrant colours and iconic motifs.

From the Lido Collection, this tote bag features brown leather straps across a natural base. The name of the House appears as a straw Gucci patch in keeping with the warm weather feel and retails for £2,030.

Chanel

Chanel never disappoints when it comes to handbags and their beach bags are no exception. This large cotton crochet & gold-tone metal tote in beige, pink & light green retails for £8,170.

Beach sets do very well on the open market, with this great set selling for just under £1,800 at auction in 2022.

Prada

Prada have produced some beautiful neutral tones this summer, this example of a medium wicker and linen blend tote bag retails for £1,750.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton’s latest spring-summer collection is landing in boutiques and it’s the perfect opportunity to refresh your accessory lineup. Whether you’re planning a getaway to the sun or embracing a city staycation, they’ve curated the hottest LV bags for your closet. From timeless hobo styles to sleek crossbody designs, these trendy companions promise to elevate your adventures in style.

Fun summer items such as a surf style Pochette Voyage Pouch retails for £850 and a Mini Golf Bag that can be yours for £2,490.

Speedy P9 Bandoulière

The Speedy P9 Bandoulière by Pharrell Williams is undeniably one of the hottest bags of the moment. Originally unveiled during Pharrell’s Men’s Spring-Summer 2024 collection, the Speedy P9 Bandoulière swiftly captured attention with its luxe appeal. Despite its origin in the menswear collection, this bag has become a coveted item for both men and women alike. However, getting your hands on one may prove to be quite the challenge and as such some are being listed on the resell market for three times the retail price of £6,850.

And finally, Louis Vuitton have just released their very own chocolate spread!! Its only available in two locations, a pop-up boutique in Singapore and their Paris store. With these limited supplies the secondary market for this designer chocolate spread has gone crazy with some examples selling for up to £500.

So, whether you are indulging in some chocolate spread and ice cream this summer, or a new beach bag, remember that having an up-to-date insurance document for your luxury belongings is extremely important. Doerr Dallas Valuations can provide you with an an insurance valuation, so you can relax and enjoy the beach, knowing that if the worst should happen, you’re properly insured, even if it’s your precious chocolate spread!!!

 

Read more articles by Helen Doyle

Vivienne Westwood the Personal Collection - A Review

Vivienne Westwood the personal collection – a review

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June is one of the most important months in the European fashion calendar with Milan Men’s Fashion week and Paris Haute Couture Week, showcasing forthcoming styles.

This year, however, perhaps the more significant occasion for fashion historians took place at Christie’s, London – the sale of the personal collection of British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood.

 

Dame Vivienne Westwood (1941-2022) was a seminal British fashion designer and linchpin of the Punk movement. Her designs simultaneously captured and redefined quintessential British fashion.

The Christie’s auction included pieces worn by Vivienne Westwood from her own collections. The auction was offered in two parts, Part I – a live day sale (including 95 lots) held on 25th June and Part II – an online auction (including 179 lots) closing on the 28th June 2024.

Proceeds from the sale were to be donated to a number of charities important to Westwood: Amnesty International, Medecins Sans Frontieres, Greenpeace and The Vivienne Foundation.

The highest price achieved during the auction reflected these values. Lot 1 – ‘THE BIG PICTURE – Vivienne’s Playing Cards, Collect the Cards, Connect the Cards’ – a series of 10 signed digital prints. Though conceived in 2017, they were printed in 2024 – with Vivienne signing the blank sheets prior to printing in 2022. Each suit was designed by Vivienne to represent those who have had a positive or negative impact on humanity and the environment. The prints used images and symbols recognisable from her career spanning six decades. With 100% of the sale proceeds being donated to Greenpeace, the lot had a total selling price of £37,800.

Her route to becoming one of fashions leading figures, was much like Vivienne herself, unconventional.

She was born in Cheshire, spending her childhood between Cheshire and the county of Derbyshire. When Vivienne was 17, her father took the decision to move his family to Harrow (now in Greater London). She attended Harrow School of Art to study fashion but did not enjoy the course or believe a woman would be able to earn a living with this career. After a spell working in a factory, Vivienne chose primary school teaching as an alternative occupation (sharing her knowledge seemed to be a lifelong endeavour – she continued to teach fashion throughout her life – fashion designer Bella Freud described her as “the greatest teacher I have ever known” [Vogue, December 2022]).

Vivienne Westwood continued to make her own clothes, by the early 1960s was married with a son. During the mid 1960s she met Malcolm McClaren – the man influential on her perception of the possibilities of art and fashion – he would become her second husband.

The pair collaborated on a vision of an entire shop (developed from McClaren’s existing stall) – selling clothes, memorabilia and 1950s inspired pieces for the rebellious, located on at 430 Kings Road, Chelsea. This location was to change the course of fashion and music history – and would be connected with the Vivienne Westwood brand throughout her career.

The shop’s first incarnation dubbed ‘Let It Rock!’ opened in 1971. With each changing collection the store changed its name (‘Too Fast to Live to Young to Die’ 1973, ‘Sex’ 1974 – 1976, and ‘Seditionaries’ 1976 – 1980), – becoming a focal point for the burgeoning punk movement. For these later incarnations Vivienne created what we would now call the Punk Aesthetic – with fetish wear, graphic designs, and accessories of chains and safety pins. The band the Sex Pistols were formed by Malcolm McClaren through the shop (members Glen Matlock and Sid Vicious both worked there) and their name chosen in part to promote it.

By the early 1980’s Vivienne Westwood was not yet a household name and her innovations generally under appreciated. As punk faded, a new scene grew – dubbed by Vivienne ‘New Romantic’. The shop rebranded to ‘World’s End’.

Vivienne held her first fashion collection ‘Pirates’ in 1981.

Christie’s chose to sell Vivienne’s wardrobe in chronologic order – with the earliest dating ensemble created as part of the ‘Witches’ collection (1983) (her first to be shown in Paris and her final collaboration with McClaren).

Lot 2 was from the ‘Witches collection – A navy blue two-piece outfit bearing the ‘World’s End’ label, estimated at £4,000 – 6,000. The garments had been inspired by Vivienne’s meeting artist Keith Haring in late 1982. The total selling price here was £8,190.

Prior to the sale the viewing was packed with celebrities and Sartorialists looking to add to their collections, or simply get a glimpse of a career in microcosm – the sale more typical of a V&A exhibition than auction.

During the preview Christie’s projected one of Vivienne’s quote’s ‘The art lover is a freedom fighter’. With portraiture in mind, Christie’s displayed pieces from the Vivienne Westwood auction alongside paintings included in their forthcoming Old Masters sale. Lot 30 a dress created for the Autumn/ Winter 1998/ 1999 ‘Dressed to Scale’ collection was viewed alongside Sir Peter Lely’s ‘Portrait of Barbara Villiers’ [Lot 20, Old Masters, Christie’s, 2nd July 2024, £567,000]). The corseted piece of silk taffeta fetched the highest price for clothing realising £32,720.

Similarly, two lots included clothing from the AW 1997/8 ‘Five Centuries Ago’ Collection. This show was directly inspired by garments depicted in Tudor and Jacobean portraiture, which had been exhibited at the Tate Gallery in 1996. Lot 23 was a flannel two-piece suit worn by Vivienne on the runway at the close of this show. Estimated at £2,000 – 3,000 it achieved £8,190. Whilst lot 23 a black and gold brocade dress sold for £8,820 (against an estimate of £1,200 – 1,800).

Lot 4 was a three-strand faux pearl necklace and matching earrings produced for the Autumn / Winter 1991/1992 ‘Portrait’ collection. Vivienne had worn the jewellery during publicity for her Swatch Watch campaign – again showing the impact of historic imagery and faux pearls becoming part of her signature style. Estimate at £800 – 1,200 the set sold for £5,040.

The Orb is the symbol most closely associated with the Vivienne Westwood brand. It was conceived in 1986 and first appeared in the ‘Harris Tweed’ Autumn/ Winter 1987/ 1988 collection. Several lots of costume jewellery were available with the Orb central to the design. Lot 9 (estimated at £600 – 900) was a knuckle duster orb ring, created in 1992. Now instantly recognisable as a Vivienne Westwood piece, it sold for £4,043. Lots 10, an orb choker, and 11, a pair of orb earrings, both from the 1993/4 ‘Anglomania’ collection, sold for £10,080 and £4,788 respectively.

This ‘Anglomania’ collection was the first to feature Vivienne’s own tartan – again a style now synonymous with the brand – and marked the beginning of her creative partnership with husband Andreas Kronthaler (which would continue over their almost 35 years together). Vivienne met Andreas in 1988 whilst teaching fashion design in Vienna. The tartan was named ‘McAndreas’ after him and produced by weavers Locharron. Lot 12 was a two-piece tartan suit utilising the fabric, here selling for £5,292 (inc. BP).

The ‘Anglomania’ show was memorable, due to Naomi Campbell’s catwalk tumble whilst wearing a pair of super elevated platform shoes. Lot 13 was a velvet jacket, identical to that worn by Campbell during the show, offered together with a blouse. Estimate at £800 – 1,200 it sold for £11,340.

Several pairs of platform shoes were included in the auction – the highest price achieved for footwear was lot 39 – A pair of brown leather ‘Animal Toe’ heeled ‘Trainer Shoes’ from the AW 2002/3 ‘Anglophilia’ Collection. These sold for £6,048.

From the same collection and inspired by Elizabeth II Golden Jubilee celebrations was lot 40 – a complete ensemble from the Gold Label, against a pre-sale guide of £1,500 – 2,500 it sold for £13,860.

Lot 68 was given special attention during the viewing and placed in a space alone. The satin ‘Cinderella’ dress in ice blue colour was created as part of the 2011 ‘Gaia The Only One’ collection. Taking influence from ballet and 18th century fashion it achieved ten times its mid estimate figure selling for a total of £25,200.

Part I was a white glove, 100% sold auction – achieving a sale total including buyer’s premium of £465,192.

Part II included further items from Vivienne’s collection – many of them being individual garments and accessories.

Lot 105 was of costume jewellery produced for the 1993 ‘Grand Hotel’ collection and reflected Vivienne Westwood’s earlier career. The ‘Sex’ choker and earrings sold for £7,560 (inc B.P).

Several of the pieces could have been purchased for inclusion in a contemporary wardrobe. Lot 193 was a striking blanket coat from the AW 2004/5 ‘Exhibition’ collection. The graphic fabric, in a punk / graffiti inspired motif, sold for £4,410 (inc. B.P).

From the later part of Westwood’s career was an unusual handmade headdress designed for AW 2017/18 (lot 258). Inscribed ‘Ecotric’ in felt pen and manufactured from pieces associated with waste, it achieved £2,520.

A lot which seemed to show how 1950s style continued to influence Westwood was 104 – a faux leopard fur coat from the AW 1991/2 ‘Dressing Up’ collection. Here the estimate was £1,500 – 2,500, it achieved £6,930.

Lot 162 showed the cross-over in Westwood collections of punk symbolism, with historical classical inspired pieces and contemporary prints. From the ‘Summertime’ collection, Spring/ Summer 2000 it included a long sleeve Lycra top and a silk skirt – selling for within estimate at £2,142.

An ensemble which highlighted the continuing influence of the punk style alongside the importance of her environmental message was lot 232 – a jersey t-shirt from the 2012 ‘War and Peace’ collection. Printed with the Gaia family tree and a climate change map of the world, it realised £2,016.

Towards the end of the auction were several pieces designed by Vivienne Westwood’s husband and current brand Creative Director, Andreas Kronthaler. Produced for Vivienne Westwood label and from Vivienne’s wardrobe, lot 272, a brass necklace with tooth shaped charms from ‘Rock Me Amadeus’ Collection, 2020 – the estimate here was £500 – 800 but total price of £3,276.

The highest price achieved during the online auction was not for clothing, but for the neon sign, specially commissioned by Christie’s to display at the King Street headquarters. In two pieces, totalling over 10 meters in diameter, it was not included in the printed catalogue, despite this it eventually sold for £30,240 (inc. BP).

As with Part I – Part II was 100% sold achieving a total of £289,296, bringing the combined figure for the two sales to just over £750k.

 

Read more articles by Stephanie Connell.

Wimbledon & Tennis – The History and Memorabilia

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British Summer is here – time for strawberries and cream as sports fans head to the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club for the most historic tournament in the tennis calendar – the 2024 Wimbledon Championships have arrived.

With Wimbledon and tennis in mind we will be looking at the sports history, and some of the most interesting pieces relating to tennis on the open market in recent years.

Tennis has a fascinating and long history dating back over 800 years. The sport can be traced back to 12th century France, and the game jeu de paume. Players of this earliest form of the game used their hands to hit the ball.

European Monarchs took to the sport and courts could be found throughout the continent with courtiers and Royalty competing. Louis X enjoyed it and is one of the earliest known players the game of the palm. During the 15th century, tennis courts could be found in the Burgundian court and several of the Italian courts.

The sport we would today describe as ‘Real tennis’ (or ‘court tennis’ and ‘royal tennis’) – can be seen as the closer precursor to the modern sport of Lawn Tennis. The racquet become a key component of the game, having been introduced from the 16th century.

British monarch, Henry VII and later Henry VIII both played Real Tennis. In 1530 Henry VIII had a court built at Hampton Court, and enjoyed playing at a number of his other palaces. French monarchs Francois I and Henry II were also notable early players.

A series of Old Master paintings illustrate the growth of tennis in Royal palaces. During the 16th century Flemish painter Lucas Gassel (c.1485 – 1568/9) produced a number of works on the Biblical theme ‘Episodes from the story of David and Bathsheba’. These works are unusual for their inclusion of then modern sporting pastimes within the landscape. One such example was sold at auction by Bonhams in July 2011 (Lot 114, Old Masters, 6th July 2011) – The grounds of a Renaissance palace with episodes from the story of David and Bathsheba. The work features one of the earliest depictions of a tennis court – with a rope for a net and tiled floor. Coincidentally the painting also includes another game in progress – an early form of croquet! The work eventually achieved £624,000 (including BP) no doubt due to the important sporting history.

The earliest known book relating to the tennis, Trattato del giuoco della palla, was written by Italian Antonio Scaino Da Salo (1524-1616) and first published in 1555. The text, written in three parts, occasionally appears on the open market. In November 2013, Christies London sold a copy bound in a single volume for £11,875.

Despite tennis’s reputation as the ‘Sport of Kings’, by the early 19th century it had fallen out of fashion – and had been declining in Britain since the days of Puritan rule during the Interregnum.

The later games of rackets, fives and badminton all helped form the creation of tennis today.

The modern game of Lawn Tennis, or simply ‘tennis’ as we called it was developed in the mid 19th century. Its invention is often credited to Major Walter Clopton Wingfield, who from 1874, sold sets that included all the equipment needed to play the sport.

More recently friends Major Thomas Henry Gem (known as Harry Gem) a solicitor, writer and soldier from Birmingham and Juan Bautista Luis Augurio Perera Orfila (known as Augurio Perera) a Spanish born merchant who had lived in the West Midlands since the age of four, have been credited as forerunners to Wingfield.

The pair played the game of ‘rackets’ locally and having become frustrated by the cost and complexity decided to make some alterations. Modern research suggest they began experimenting in 1859.

The pair chose to play their game outdoors on Perara’s croquet lawn, with rules developed from similar games. They founded (alongside two local doctors) the Leamington Club in 1874 (renamed the Leamington Lawn Tennis Club) – the first lawn tennis club.

Major Walter Clopton Wingfield was a Welsh army officer and inventor – importing bouncing rubber balls from Germany as part of his sets was a notable development. His game – originally called Sphairstike, was ideal for those who owned a croquet lawn. The sets he created included all the equipment required to play tennis and directly led to the popularity of lawn tennis.

Wingfield’s very early sets were retailed by French and Co. and have occasionally appeared at auction. In October 2019 ‘Sphairistike or Lawn Tennis’ set was sold at Shropshire auctioneers Trevanion and Dean. The remaining contents included three rackets manufactured in 1874 and was estimated at £3,000 – 5,000, eventually selling for a hammer price of £17,000.

The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club opened in Wimbledon during July 1868 simply called All England Croquet Club. Lawn tennis was introduced in 1875 with the first gentlemen’s competition being held in July 1877 – resulting the following year in a name change to included lawn tennis.

Memorabilia relating to these early days of Wimbledon is rare and pieces highly sought by collectors. In September 2021 a programme for the tournament held at All England Croquet and Lawn Tennis Club Wimbledon on 5th to 12th July 1880 was sold at Graham Budd Auctioneers. Carefully inscribed on the back page with the winners of each match it sold for a hammer price of £6,500.

This year marks 140 years since the first Wimbledon Ladies Singles and Gentlemen’s doubles tournaments held in 1884.

By the late 19th century Lawn Tennis had become popular internationally and tournaments were being held in globally. A poster recently sold by Swann Auction Galleries in New York was described as the “first American tennis poster promoting a tournament”.

Dating from 1896, the poster advertised The Western Lawn Tennis Tournament, held at the Kenwood Country Club in mid July. This stylish lithograph designed by Edward Penfield (1866-1925) fetched $11,250 (inc. BP).

The early 20th century brought tennis notable international players, who could be defined as ‘Sports Stars’. French multi-grand slam winning sportswoman Suzanne Lenglen (1889-1938) was such a player. Lenglen, arguably redefined what it was to be female sports person. She changed tennis fashion, wearing clothes practical for playing tennis rather than meeting the conventions of the day (such as corsets). The decision allowed her more freedom of movement.

Photographer Jacques-Henri Lartigue (1894-1986), famed for capturing of sporting events, took a series of photographs of Lenglen training.

These images, extremely evocative of the period, capture Lenglen’s playing style. In October 2017 Phillips Auctioneers, New York, sold an example of this series, a gelatin silver print signed by the photographer for a total of $13,750.

By the 1930s Wimbledon had become a hugely important event in the British sporting year. Tennis and its style fit perfectly with the Art Deco age. This is reflected in pieces produced for the modern home during this period. Designers such as ceramic artist Clarice Cliff expressed this in their work. In March 2024, West Midlands auctioneers Fielding’s sold a Clarice Cliff twoperson early morning breakfast set in the ‘Tennis’ pattern design for £7,200 (hammer price + BP over £9k).

On the open market pieces from key players of the 1930s intermittently emerge. In 2013, auctioneers Heritage (USA) sold the Wimbledon Gentlemen’s Singles trophy given to American tennis champion Ellsworth Vines. It sold for $47,800 (inc. BP) (Lot 80052, Sports Auction, Heritage Auctioneers, 1-2 August 2013).

Today, some of the most famous sporting figures of the 1920s and 1930s, are recognised by the wider general public due to fashion labels carrying their names. Two legends are French player Rene Lacoste and British player Fred Perry.

Frederick John Perry (1909-1995) had a prolific tennis career winning eight grand slams including three consecutive Wimbledon Singles titles. Prior to Andy Murray’s win in 2013, Fred Perry’s was the last British player to win a Gentlemen’s singles title in 1936. His gold winners medal awarded for this victory over Gotfried von Cramm in that tournament was offered at auction in June 2021 by Graham Budd. The piece sold for a hammer price £20,000. (Lot 205, Sporting Memorabilia, Graham Budd Auctioneers, 7th June 2021).

By the late 20th century tennis was able to hold an influence more broadly. In September 1973, tennis icon Billie Jean King played an exhibition match against male player and former Wimbledon Champion, Bobby Riggs – the game has since dubbed ‘Battle of the Sexes’. The competition was adapted into the 2017 movie of the same title starring Emma Stone and Steve Carell. The two-player competed in Houston for $100,000 in prize money. Billie Jean King won the match in straight sets. A notable piece of memorabilia from the contest was sold by Bonhams New York in December 2017 – the racquet used by Billie Jean King during the match. With a portion of the proceeds being donated to the Women’s Sports Foundation, the lot sold for $125,000 (inc BP).

As the influence of the sport has continued to expand, objects have been given names to capture their tennis connection. This is true of the ‘eternity’ bracelet or ‘line’ bracelet often referred to as a “tennis bracelet”. It is believed that the term tennis bracelet was coined after an incident during a US Open tennis match in 1987. Chris Evert, winner of 18 women’s grand slam titles, stopped her match to retrieve a missing diamond line bracelet – the new name was commonplace soon after.

The 21st century has produced some of the greatest players in tennis (and therefore Wimbledon) history. Serena Williams, Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal for example have all proved to have influence far beyond tennis.

In 2021 Roger Federer held two auctions from his career at Christies, in aid of his foundation. Among the notable lots during the online and live auctions were three rackets, used during the fourth round, quarter final and finals of the Wimbledon Championships in 2019. The set were estimated at £7,000 – 10,000 but achieved an estimate smashing £162,500. (Lot 234, Roger Federer Collection, Christies, 14th July 2021).

Similarly, Rafael Nadal’s racket used during the French Open Final in 2018 and again during the Wimbledon Semi-finals in the same year sold earlier this year at Sotheby’s. The piece, which was signed by the player, achieved a total of just over $33,000 (Lot 8, Zenith Sports Artifacts, Sothebys NY, 11th April 2024). While the tennis racket used by Novak Djokovic to win the 2011 Wimbledon Championship sold in September 2023 at Graham Budd auctioneers for £36,000 (hammer price total over £45k) (Lot 425, Sporting Memorabilia, Graham Budd Auctioneers, 5th September 2023).

Fashion and accessories continue to be one of the areas in which tennis is hugely influential. Watch maker Richard Mille approached Rafael Nadal in 2008 about working on a watch for the player. Nadal, who did not wear a watch was initially unconvinced about the idea. Richard Mille went on to design the RM27, a lightweight watch, perfected to the players specification. In May 2024 Bonhams Hong Kong offered a rare limited edition prototype Richard Mille/Rafael Nadal RM27-01 produced circa 2014.

It achieved HKD$9.1 million (equivalent to just over £900,000).

The Wimbledon tournament has been connected to the Rolex brand for over 40 years and since they first sponsored the competition in 1978. The popular Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Datejust is recognised by collectors as the ‘Wimbledon’ design due to its close association with the championships. These watches appear at auction regularly – in November 2023 Dreweatts sold a stainlesssteel bracelet example produced circa 2022 for a hammer price of £7,000. (Lot 302, Fine Jewellery, Dreweatts, 16th November 2023).

Now on to this year – memorabilia from future sporting icons is something to look out for. Pieces relating to younger players, competing in this year’s Wimbledon Championships are pursued by collectors. In April 2024 a tennis ball signed by the 2023 Wimbledon Men’s Singles Champion – Carlos Alcaraz – was offered at Sotheby’s. Used during the US Open tennis in 2022, the ball achieved a total selling price of $1,524 (lot 33, Zenith | Sports Artifacts, Sotheby’s – NY, April 11th 2024).

Wishing all those visiting the Wimbledon Championships this year a fantastic fortnight.

 

Read more articles by Stephanie Connell

This week’s pick – Trooping the Colour and Princess Catherine

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What fan of Princess Catherine would I be if this week’s pick didn’t focus on her one-off appearance for the King’s birthday?

Princess Catherine delighted the nation on the 15th June by attending the celebrations. With her family by her side and gleaming smile, I don’t think anyone could tell she was undergoing any treatment.

She wore a Jenny Packham dress, reworked from last year’s coronation.

Long-sleeved with thin black piping at the waist and an oversized bow on her lapel, she completed the look with a white Philip Treacy headpiece, white pumps and a black clutch.

As for the jewellery, the Princess of Wales wore Cassandra Goad Cavolfiore earrings in 18ct yellow gold, set with 2mm white cultured pearls and approximately 0.30ct of diamonds. These retail for £5,620.

One could accentuate the look with the matching Carioca cuff bracelet by Cassandra Goad, retailing for £9,580.

As a Colonel of Irish Guards, the Princess added to her jewels, the Irish Guards Regimental brooch.

The Irish Guards, to whom the Princess wrote a letter wishing them good luck for the event and to let them know how proud she was of them, were among the British troops participating in the parade.

Little fact about this year’s Trooping of the Colour: for the first time in more than 100 years, soldiers on parade were allowed to have beards, approved by the King earlier this year and which applies across the Army.

The Princess has once again shown how devoted and courageous she is: being scrutinised by millions during these times could certainly not have been easy. But, let’s be honest, she smashed it! My only glamour during my treatment was putting on my wig for very special occasions!

Though delighted to see the Princess at a public event, she has warned she is “not out of the woods yet” and it will be some time before she makes another appearance.

Until her treatment is over, I wish her and all those affected by the disease much strength.

The Trooping of the Colour marks the official birthday of the British Sovereign and has been celebrated in June for over 260 years.

Over 1400 parading soldiers, 200 horses and 400 musicians participate, together with an RAF fly-past.

The operational soldiers wear the ceremonial uniform of red tunics and bearskin hats and are inspected by the Sovereign once they reach Horse Guard’s Parade in Whitehall. The parade moves from Buckingham Palace and down The Mall to Horse Guard’s Parade and carries on to Whitehall.

Getting to the root of it – woods in furniture

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Wood is one of the greatest resources that mother nature has ever given us, from buildings, ships, cars, paper, its uses are pretty much universal. There is nothing involved in our everyday lives that doesn’t involve wood, and that may well be a unique quality.

In our world, and fairly low on the food chain in terms of global importance, is furniture. We all know that wood has been used since the dawn of time for making chairs, benches and many other items that make us more comfortable, but what woods have been used, and why?

Mahogany

Possibly the term that you will see the most when it comes to antique furniture, for the most part of the 18th and 19th centuries, it really was the most popular material for quality furniture. Mahogany is actually a term for three types of wood in the Swietenia variety of trees, comprising the San Domingo, Cuban, and Honduras, with a significant amount of this wood originally coming from Jamaica and the South Americas. Many of the pedigree woods are now covered by CITES regulations and subsequently modern items are made from crossbred trees that create very similar woods. Identifying mahogany is slightly tricky as there are so many variations, but the general appearance is that of a reddish brown material with fine grains, and next to no voids or pockets.

Walnut

Before mahogany and the ability to transport wood across the seas, walnut was one of the most valuable woods used for furniture construction. Elizabethan documents indicate that walnut wood, specifically from France, was regularly used in the construction of the most majestic pieces across the land. Following a particularly bad winter in 1709, the French actually blocked any exportation of the wood in order to protect it from foreign hands, which is where we start to see an influx of walnut veneers upon lesser quality wood bases, it is also where the very attractive polished burr varieties became popular. In some ways it is a similar wood to mahogany put with a more buttery colour, and with a swirling grain. The burr varieties can be found with an even more pronounced colouration, spots and pockets.

Oak

Possibly the most symbolically English tree in existence, the oak has been used since the middle ages in furniture making and one of the only woods on this list not originally used for its appearance, but its sheer practicality and useability. The wood itself was always considered more of a working wood with items made in the material known as ‘Country pieces’ with 18th century items often made in different woods, the oak being the cheapest. However, in the 20th century a resurgence in popularity in oak caused many reproduction pieces to be made, and also interesting pieces made by new designers such as Mouseman of Kilburn. Identifying oak is a lot easier than most woods, considering the nature of the wood, it is usually seen in more simple items with a heavy grain and uniform colour.

Rosewood

One of the true superstars of antique furniture, rosewood has been used for elaborate pieces of furniture for centuries and as such some of the most expensive pieces of furniture from certain periods, often seen as an upgrade from a standard mahogany piece, its rich deep brown hues really do capture the style of certain pieces. Also, some of the best Scandinavian mid-century pieces are made in rosewood, which leads to a certain problem that the industry has recently had to deal with. The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) has declared certain type of rosewood as an ‘Endangered Species’, meaning that certification may be needed in order to sell, or even insure some pieces.

Exotic & other woods

Of course, there are as many different types of woods as there are trees – we see many pieces of 19th century continental furniture in fruitwoods, which generally are a lovely rich orangey colour, but with a lot of grain and inconstancies.

Pine, which is without any doubt the best material for a kitchen table ever thought of, with red wine stains and children’s pen marks always adding to the patina.

Ash, Beech, Maple, Yew, Teak, Elm… the list goes on with many woods being exclusive to certain types of furniture or locations, but with so many different types to explore.

While some furniture values in the last twenty years may not have proven to be an escalating asset, the top levels of antique furniture continue to soar in value to the right client.

 

Read more articles by Alastair Meiklejon.

Pick of the week highlights of the Bonhams jewellery sale

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I had the pleasure of viewing the upcoming jewellery sale at Bonhams on New Bond Street this week. I received such a warm greeting from an old colleague at the front desk, and proceeded to head to the viewing room. Now, some might say they are too scared or intimidated to walk through these halls, let alone have the audacity to look at a jewellery sale on display. But here’s the secret… It’s open to everyone! And you should take advantage of these viewings. Think of it as a free museum entrance with endless exhibitions of exceptional goods, which have been, more often than not, hidden away from the public for generations.

I had the pleasure of being shown some highlights of this 118 lot sale.

These included a pair of Castellani sapphire bracelets from 1865.

These bracelets of Byzantine inspiration really are beautifully made. Castellani is one of the best when it comes to archaeological revival style jewellery and these pieces are no exception. “To have one bracelet is wonderful but to have two is very rare” said Jean Ghika, Global Head of Jewellery. With an estimate of £25,000 – 35,000, I am sure they will find a new home.

Still in the antique jewellery section of the sale are these spectacular “Night and Day” diamond earrings.

Still in their original box, these earrings can be altered depending on the mood. One can wear the diamonds for a dash of dazzle or cover them up with the cannetille beads. It is an extraordinary piece and statement to earlier craftmanship. They have an estimate of £12,000 – 18,000.

It should come as no surprise that my eye was immediately drawn to an early 20th century Cartier piece: an enamel and diamond fob watch circa 1910.

The delicate purple guilloché enamel is highlighted by a central diamond and a diamond border. The reverse is everything that makes Cartier watches: blue steeled hands, engine-turned dial and attention to detail. The very attractive estimate of £6,000 – 8,000 is bound to call out collectors.

Amongst the highlights is a sapphire and diamond cluster ring, circa 1890 with an estimate of £60,000 – 80,000. Why the price tag? That would be due to the origin of the sapphire: Kashmir with no evidence of treatment. Though a little abraided on the facet edges, a quick repolish would restore this stone and ring to its original glamourous state.

This piece shows once more the importance of getting gems certificated, as origin or colour and clarity can affect its value dramatically. This is even more apparent with the “Toi et Moi” blue and pink diamond crossover ring by Mouawad.

Both diamonds weigh a little over 5 carats, natural Fancy Intense Blue colour, VVS2 clarity and natural Fancy Purple-Pink colour, I1 clarity.

Bonhams says: “It is estimated that as little as 1 in 10,000 gem-quality diamonds extracted from the Earth’s crust show noticeable colour and of these stones, an exceedingly small percentage are blue or pink. The majority of these rare marvels of nature are under 2.00 carats in weight and stones exceeding 5.00 carats, are even rarer. Stones with high intensity colour grades such as ‘Fancy Deep’, ‘Fancy Vivid’ and ‘Fancy Intense’ are considered some of the most desirable colour classifications by GIA.” Due to its rarity the estimate for this ring is £1,000,000 – 1,500,000.

The Bonhams London Jewels sale that was held on 13th June garnered extraordinary results, with a total of £6,590,562, with 78% sold by lot.

Montblanc – Elegance in writing through a digital age

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If anyone has watched the recent interpretation of The Talented Mr Ripley on Netflix, the originally titled ‘Ripley’, you will have seen such a plethora of stylish items, from Salvatore Ferragamo shoes to Alfa Romeos, and one of the most focused items appears to be Dickie Greenleaf’s pen. The Montblanc Meisterstuck 149 almost playing a starring role in the series.

Whilst there are many brands that create stunning pens, there really is only one choice when it comes to the real top level writing instruments that people long for. In the same way that Omega might actually make a better diving watch than Rolex, 99% of people still dream of owning a Submariner.

The brand started life in Germany in 1906, producing luxury writing instruments under various different names until 1909 when the name Montblanc became the famous brand that we know today. Inspired by one of the most famous mountains in the world, the emblem that is still used today is their representation of a snow-capped mountain, and features heavily in their products and publicity. Later on, the nibs of all Meisterstuck (German for Masterpiece) pens would be engraved with the number 4810, to represent the height in metres of the mountain the brand is named after.

During World War II, the factory that produced their range was destroyed and they had to rely on a facility in Denmark to produce their instruments, however post war they managed to shine with many new ranges being released and slowly becoming the brand that most people know them as.

During the 1960s and 1970s, and after being taken over by Alfred Dunhill, they became even more exclusive, abandoning the less expensive models and producing even more exquisite and elaborate examples of fantastic writing instruments with celebrities all queuing up to buy them. By the 1980s, if you were a rock star signing a contract, or a world leader signing a negotiation, you would be doing it with a Montblanc.

In the last 40 years, Montblanc has become synonymous with the art collaboration pens that they have embraced with items retailing for around the £8,000 mark, but with their jewelled collaborations have broken records The Montblanc Boheme Royal selling for a staggering £1.1 million. The Collaboration with Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Mystery masterpiece’ selling for just short of £550,000 and numerous other watches within their collections selling for astonishing figures.

The good news is, if you just want to write and enjoy a quality pen, Montblanc still have you covered in 2024 with a lovely ballpoint pen, the Pix available for £240… so if writing is your passion, and even if you aren’t signing multi million pound deals, one can still enjoy the elegance that a good pen brings.

Jewellery Pick of the Week Cannes Film Festival

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It should come as no surprise to those who have read my previous articles that I would have chosen Cannes Film Festival for this week’s pick. A red carpet is always a good opportunity to see some of the most beautiful haute couture and jewellery which are inaccessible to most of us. Today I am looking at jewellery pieces by Tiffany & Co. worn by Camille Cottin – for whom I happen to have written a feature length jewellery heist screenplay.

As Mistress of Ceremony of the 77th Cannes Festival, and ambassador for Tiffany & Co., the spectacular French actress wore Tiffany Edge diamond drop earrings. These are set with 3.27cts of diamonds, mounted in platinum and 18ct yellow gold and retail for £32,800.

That same evening for the gala’s opening dinner, while still adhering to a very chic and elegant style, she sported another Tiffany & Co. suite from the HardWear collection.

Her neck was adorned with the Tiffany HardWear Graduated Link Necklace in yellow gold and pavé diamonds. It retails for £72,500 and is set with 9.07cts of diamonds.

The earrings en suite are set with 1.18cts of diamonds and retail for £15,800.

This particular jewellery line comes in white, yellow and rose gold, and can, as demonstrated the last few days, be worn to any circumstances, it really is a girl’s best friend.

The choice in design from Tiffany & Co. jewellery seems to resonate the theme of this year’s opening ceremony: women at the forefront of film and creativity. Camille Cottin’s speech mentioned #MeToo movement, the extraordinary Meryl Streep was awarded the Palme d’Or after a moving speech by Juliette Binoche, and Greta Gerwig (director of Barbie) was appointed President of the jury, six years after the last female jury president Cate Blanchett, in 2018. The HardWear collection says it all in its name and in its polished smooth and geometric lines. How could a jewellery collection be more perfect to echo both femininity and power.

To find out more about our jewellery valuation service, call us on 01883 722736 or email [email protected]

This Week’s Jewellery Pick

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I recently finished the multiple award-winning show The Marvellous Mrs Maisel. And if you haven’t seen it yet, you know what you’ll be doing straight after reading this article!

The main character, Midge Maisel, played to perfection by Rachel Brosnahan is based on Joan Rivers.

Other characters are real, such as Lenny Bruce, others fictional. Created by Amy Sherman-Palladino, it portrays women’s experiences in the mid-20th century, focusing specifically on a young Jewish woman trying it to make it on the comedy scene.

The series is mostly set in the late 50s and 60s and the costume and jewellery are divine. Costume designer Donna Zakowska created a dream wardrobe for all the characters, earning her awards for her creativity.

Not only are the dresses and jewels visually stunning, they add and carry the story, they are a story of their own. Today I will look at the pearls used in the series and especially one set of doublestrand cultured pearls which Mrs Maisel wears for her first official stand-up at the Gaslight Café (a sticky downtown New York club where the great Joan Rivers also performed).

In this moment she experiences great success, slightly undermined by some misogynistic remarks, then put to right by her estranged husband, and the outfit is perfect and effective. A black dress complemented by a pearl necklace.

The double-strand is strung and knotted with 6mm peach cultured pearls. The pearls appear to be uniform in shape, colour and lustre.

And when looking to purchase pearls, these are the most determining factors in assessing pearl necklaces. In this scene, the choice of colour sends the message of softness, being peach and not gold, and also lets us extrapolate that she could become very successful in the future, the pearls being almost golden. Mrs Maisel and her success shine thanks to the peachy colour and also due to the pearls’ lustre. Lustre measures the rate of light reflecting off the surface of the pearl and the sharpness of reflection visible on its surface. We often describe these as poor, fair, good and excellent. The better the lustre, the more radiance and glow they emit.

The pearls are also well matched and round. Their shape in this scene is key. She is trying to make a name for herself in a male dominated industry, all the while maintaining and celebrating her femininity and exposing her marital instability and struggles as a mother. The roundness works brilliantly.

Though the above baroque pearl necklace comes with a generous price tag of £7,500 they would have sent a very different message than perfectly round pearls.

It was common practise to have faux pearls at the time and they were very effective. In today’s market they do not have any value. The costs of cultured pearls vary greatly depending on the factors mentioned above, amongst others. But essentially, their value depends on what they mean and signify to the wearer.

To arrange a jewellery valuation call us on 01883 722736 or email us on [email protected].

 

Protecting the Cash in the Attic

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Frequently, for those whose homes are filled with antiques and art – particularly when they have been treasured family possessions for generations – potential replacement values for insurance can be overlooked.

Whilst jewellery and silver are often undervalued for insurance – recent costs having increased – there are certain types of objects which can be discounted completely.

With that in mind, Doerr Dallas Valuations would like to share a few examples where interesting history and excellent quality have led to growing value and this fact may lead to under insurance.

Georgian Costume Jewellery

The 18th and early 19th centuries were a time of great innovation and advances in technology. One of the fields in which this was obvious was jewellery design. With sumptuary laws being ignored, and with a growing middleclass keeping up with the latest trends, the desire to own the most fashionable jewellery became widespread. This demand was met by advances in artificial stone production – what would now be described as paste jewellery. Paste stones could be manufactured in a range of dazzling colours – mimicking – or even more vivid than their precious stone equivalents. It made jewellery more affordable to the fashionable of the day.

Costume jewellery, in terms of its financial value, has often been disregarded in comparison with fine jewellery equivalents. However, in recent years a strong market for costume jewellery as a whole is evident. Recently, the Georgian paste jewellery market has strengthened resulting in rocketing prices.

At auction, estimates have been smashed – in February 2023 a suite of blue paste jewellery (parure) comprised of a necklace (which would have been attached by a ribbon), a bracelet and a pair of earrings was offered in auction (Woolley & Wallis lot 148) with an estimate of £200 – £300. The eventual total selling price was over £25,000!

Domestic Metalware

Objects made from brass, copper and pewter may appear ordinary but again their values can be surprising. Lighting, fire grates, door furniture, mortars are all things to consider when arranging an insurance valuation.

Early pieces are highly prized by collectors and their replacement value can be in the thousands. In a recent auction, (The Chapman Pewter Collection – Bishop Miller; April 2023) a rare pewter candlestick manufactured during the reign of Elizabeth I/ James I achieved a selling price of over £30,000 (Lot 43). If you are uncertain as to the origin of your metalware, it is always best to consult a specialist valuer.

Furniture

In recent years the antique furniture market has been much maligned, with reports of the decrease in values being widespread. While the market may not be that of the 1980s, quality antique furniture continues to be esteemed and seeking replacements competitive.

Modest oak and antique country furniture should be closely looked at when considering insurance. Windsor chairs, mule chests, dressers and farmhouse tables are respected amongst collectors.

Treen

In a similar vein to country furniture and domestic metalware – treen – domestic objects made from wood may have been disregarded. In this fierce collecting field, prices can be surprising and some objects extremely rare.

 

 

Toys, Games and Juvenilia

When considering a valuation, looking at the playroom or nursery may not be the first area for attention but with the market for antique toys and games proving ever popular, replacing these treasured possessions can be costly.

Important and interesting 18th and 19th century dolls houses are collected not only by those interested in toys, but for those with a passion for architectural history. These microcosms of the family home often include complete furniture and decoration – showing how families lived and operated their homes. To replace good examples, the anticipated cost will be upwards of £10,000.

Rocking horses have a history which dates back thousands of years – the toy in the current form has existed since the 19th century. Rocking horses, both antique and modern, are a focal point for a playroom and as such should often be insured. When looking to acquire a good 19th or early 20th century example, one should budget over £2,000.

Playing cards, board games and games compendiums may be valuable depending upon age, manufacturer and scarcity. Toy specialists can offer guidance on teddies, dolls and antique toys and games.

Exploring the hidden treasures in your attic could be a delightful journey down memory lane. These items which hold dear memories close to your heart might even surprise you with their financial value.