Category Archives: Our Team News

Affordable Modern Masters

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Article by Jonathan Horwich

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Lucian Freud, Francis Bacon, Pablo Picasso, David Hockney, Pierre Auguste Renoir are just a few of the Titans of Modern Art. They all have stellar international reputations, with their finest works being fought over by mega-collectors worldwide and making millions.

This leaves us mere mortals, who might aspire to own a work by any of these greats, without hope; the assumption being that price precludes ownership. Thus, collectors may totally discount the possibility of acquiring anything at more affordable prices.

However, there are buying opportunities out there for all of these artists which may not seem immediately obvious. When faced with astronomical prices for finished major works, collectors should be encouraged to look below the surface for less apparent opportunities…

For example, during Francis Bacon’s early career in the 1930s, he worked as a commercial furniture and rug designer. After the war he emerges as the great painter we know today, and of course his paintings are now out of financial reach to the masses. However, his rugs, although expensive, and his much cheaper surviving pieces of furniture, offer some buying opportunities, (no.’s 1-2). As do his limited-edition prints, each one is signed by him, even all three works in a Triptych, (no.’s 3-5).

Following this theme, I looked for more affordable pieces. Among my favourite finds is no. 7, Lucian Freud’s artist’s palette. It is one he actually used and still has all his signature colours. Equally, Freud’s etchings are accessible and affordable and they are a direct link to his skill as a draughtsman. The process of making an etching involves the artist drawing his subject direct onto the printing plate, and so is only one step away from an original drawing in my mind.

I think David Hockney offers us the greatest number of different buying opportunities, from faxes, to iPad drawings, to office-made, limited-edition ink jet prints and he is still finding new ways to make art, which at 83 is truly remarkable!

 

 

 

‘Guitars – Rock ‘n’ Roll Never Dies!

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An early Rickenbacker Frying Pan

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By Alastair Meiklejon, Senior Valuer

A late 1950s Les Paul

It happens every year, and it’s the ultimate guilty pleasure.
The Eurovision Song Contest this year was hotly anticipated in the wake of last year’s cancellation of the annual parade of the great (and not so great) in European pop, and it certainly didn’t fail to get the viewers talking. Our entry suffered a rather incredible snub from the public of an entire continent which was possibly an achievement in itself. However, the obvious and clear winner on the night was in fact a rock band hailing from… Rome, Italy.
Maneskin, with their entry ‘Zitti e buoni’ stole the hearts of Europe and despite the political voting from the vast majority of the judging panels, took their overwhelming score from the public vote. Now, what made this win special was the band’s clear love of the rock image, which over the decades has defined itself as: lots of guitars, not a lot of shirts.
During their acceptance speech their lead singer Damiano David declared that “Rock and Roll Never Dies” and that comment could never be truer than now. The eternal icon of Rock has to be the electric guitar. It has made heroes, millionaires, and icons, so why are old guitars making incredible prices across the globe?
The electric guitar started out in the 1930s as a way for jazz musicians and some country acts to amplify their sound when performing to an audience and this was the case for the next couple of decades. Rickenbacker, (more about them later), developed a pick-up for a slide guitar made by National, and this was dubbed the ‘Frying Pan’ due to its culinary outline.
The 1950s were really the start of the solid body electric. Leo Fender brought out the ‘Broadcaster’, whilst Gibson, who were already well known for their big-box jazz guitars, brought out the ‘Les Paul’, which was designed by Les Paul, alongside Ted McCarty, who was probably one of the most important people in the music industry that you have never heard of. His innovations at Gibson during this period really can’t be overlooked.
During this golden era of guitars, more models would evolve such as the Stratocaster – which possibly, alongside the Les Paul, is the most recognisable instrument of all time. The Gibson 335 – undoubtedly the most versatile guitar one can play – and lots of other models like the
SG, Explorer, Jaguar, Jazzmaster and two of my personal favourites – the Gretsch 6120, and the Rickenbacker 360/12.
Fast forward to 2021 and what are the most popular guitar models right now? Well, it’s exactly the same as it was in the 50s, 60s, 70s (not the 80s – blame hair metal) and 90s. They got it right first time.
This leads us into why vintage guitars command so much money. While a modern USA Stratocaster can be bought for under £1000 why does a guitar that looks exactly the same from 1958 cost maybe 40 times as much? Well, whilst my learned friend David Dallas would rightly comment that some artists produce better paintings during certain parts of their career – it’s the same with guitars. The early ones were made with far better components; the pick- ups were wound by hand and the amount they produced in a year was probably lower than gets produced in a day in 2021. The other big factor that simply can’t be accounted for is “feel” …. hardly a technical term, but I was very fortunate enough to once play a 1958 Les Paul Standard, which is now a £500,000 guitar and there are simply no words to describe how different the weight, fingerboard, sound or just overall ‘feel’ are. That’s why musicians and collectors are happy to pay the big money for these items.
So, alongside Rock and Roll, the electric guitar is certainly a survivor and has outlasted the formats it was designed to be played on many times, and no doubt, when downloads are old technology, the guitar will still be at the forefront making the music.

A mid 1950s Fender Stratocaster

Why I Love Researching Artists and Paintings

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By Dave Dallas, Old Master Specialist

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Image 0125 George Frederick Harris

I was recently asked by a collector friend in New York to do some research on the American painter G F Harris. All I had to go on were his initials. I subsequently discovered he is called Gregory Frank Harris, was born in 1953 and paints pretty girls by the sea in an accomplished latter-day Impressionist style.
However, before I discovered his true identity, I stumbled on a 19th century Welsh painter George Frederick Harris, who was born in Birmingham on October 30th 1856, but lived most of his life in Merthyr Tydfil. Merthyr was an unlikely place for a would-be artist in the Victorian age as it was a town with strong coal mining roots, but it was prosperous and this led to it having a large Jewish community. In fact, it had its own Synagogue and the pink opaline glass lamps from this building are now in the collection of the St Fagan’s National Museum of History, Cardiff.

Queenie
Rolf Harris

George Frederick Harris was a decent portrait and still-life painter, I don’t know how successful he was but there are over 40 paintings by him in public art collections. In 1920 he left Wales for Australia but sadly died of pneumonia in Sydney 4 years later.
His artistic legacy, however, lives on in his grandson, Rolf. Rolf entertained many children in the UK in the 1960s with his broad-brush painting technique, singing to himself on live British television and painting briskly with a decorator’s brush. The seemingly random first strokes then turned into a cabin amongst palm trees or whatever. The trick was to try and work out what the subject was before he finished the painting.
In 2005, he painted a portrait of H.M. The Queen. Now he is detained at her displeasure. You never know what you are going to unearth when you start a little gentle research.

Girls on a beach

My Highlights from the Sotheby’s Old Master Sale in April 2021

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By Dave Dallas, Old Master Specialist

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Sotheby’s Old Master Sale, which ended on April 28th, produced a total of just over £2m which is a fair reflection on the dullness of the things on offer. There were the usual unwanted portraits, swooning saints and boers carousing.

However, the picture that stood out for me, and to be fair, to Sotheby’s, as it was picked as one of their 5 highlights of the sale, was an atmospheric view of Santa Maria della Salute seen from the lagoon by David Roberts, R.A..

I have always loved oil sketches done on the spot and this one is painted in very thin oil paint, more like a watercolour technique on paper laid down on panel. When an artist is trying to catch the play of light across a landscape, or in this case, the sea, it necessitates working at speed and the beauty of this is that the artist does not have time to conform to the conventions of his day. Roberts was the son of a shoemaker from near Edinburgh and such was his facility for drawing architecture that he was known as the Scottish Canaletto.

You would never guess this David Roberts was painted in the 1850s. It is timeless, which is why, despite being only 12 ½ x 21 ins, it made over £32,000. Quite rightly!


David Roberts, R.A. (1796-1864)
Venice, a view of the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute
Oil on paper21 x 121/2 ins

Below is a plein-air (outdoor) oil sketch by Jean Honoré Fragonard done in the 1760s, which looks like a 20th Century work of art.


Jean Honoré Fragonard (1732-1806)
Mountain Landscape at Sunset, c. 1765
Oil on paper
Approx. 8 ½ x 13 ins

 

Silver – What’s Hot and What’s Not?

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Jenny Knott, Silver and Jewellery Specialist

Silver is a commodity which is in an interesting place. Last year the price rose hugely, in line with gold, and as a result of global economic concerns. Typically, when there is economic uncertainty the price of precious metals rises because they are a safe haven. The silver price has now declined again, also in line with gold, but many people believe that the price of silver is being suppressed (conspiracy theorists have a field day with the control banks and governments may have over this) and that it may rise dramatically in the medium to long term. To this end there are people collecting/hoarding silver against this possibility. Sometimes these people will buy from dealers who have picked up uncommercial items and are happy to sell them on at slightly above scrap price.

Image of Georgian silver tea service

A Georgian silver tea service – not much called for in entertaining today

Silver is also interesting because whilst gold is, by and large, used for decorative purposes silver is used a lot in industry, particularly in medical equipment, electronics, the nuclear industry and many other areas so the price is indexed against these uses too. For example, the price of platinum is greatly reduced now because it is no longer in demand for catalytic converters in diesel cars.

Image of a silver claret jug

A silver claret jug – still a beautiful addition to the sideboard

So, this brings us on to what is and isn’t saleable in the silver market.

Image of a novelty silver mustard pot in the form of an owl

A novelty silver mustard pot in the form of an owl – very much a collector’s item today

The most apposite question to ask would be “Is it useful, is it rare or is it beautiful?” If it ticks one or more of these boxes the market is extremely strong. If not, then silver may be worth little over scrap. To give some examples, in the 20th century wedding presents were often silver gifts, cruets sets, tea sets, fish eaters and servers. As we no longer used ground white pepper, or tend to make tea in a silver tea pot or even eat our fish with fish eaters, the prolific examples of these relatively ordinary things are not in great demand. However, there is a huge appetite for unusual items, novelty items, maybe a mustard pot in the shape of an owl or a mouse? Tableware is always popular; candlesticks, claret jugs, wine coasters and some flatware are greatly in demand.

image of a silver cup made by Omar Ramsden

A silver cup made by Omar Ramsden – still much sought after today

Finally, the rare. Dealers and collectors will battle over rare silver, pieces by sought after makers across the ages, for example Paul Storr, Paul de Lamerie, Hester Bateman and the Bateman family, Liberty, Omar Ramsden, to name but a few. These are a handful of the makers across the years whose work is highly sought after. Bateman pieces can be acquired relatively inexpensively, whereas pieces by de Lamerie would command seriously high prices. All would be in demand. As is silver with unusual hallmarks, for example provincial silver and also early silver.

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Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965) – Painting as a Pastime

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Jonathan Horwich, Modern Art Specialist

It’s 1915 and the First World War is raging. Winston Churchill, now aged forty, was in the thick of the fighting, leading his men at Ypres. It was while resting behind enemy lines at Ploegsteert, nicknamed ‘Plug Street’ by the Tommies, that he first picked up a brush to paint for the first time. His reasons for doing so are most eloquently expressed by Churchill himself in the introduction to his book ‘Painting as a Pastime’ first published in 1947.

Image of painting by Winston Churchill, Plug Street, 1915

Plug Street, 1915. Oil on canvas. 51 x 60 cm
Painted during WW1 while Churchill was resting with his men behind the battle lines at Ploegsteert near the front at Ypres.
In the National Trust collection at Churchill’s home , Chartwell, Kent

“Happy are the painters, for they shall not be lonely. Light and colour, peace and hope, will keep them company to the end, or almost to the end, of the day. To have reached the age of forty without ever handling a brush or fiddling with a pencil, to have regarded with mature eye the painting of pictures of any kind as a mystery, to have stood agape before the chalk of the pavement artist, and then suddenly to find oneself plunged in the middle of a new and intense form of interest and action with paints and palettes and canvases, and not to be discouraged by results, is an astonishing and enriching experience. I hope it may be shared by others. I should be glad if these lines induced others to try the experiment which I have tried, and if some at least were to find themselves dowered with an absorbing new amusement delightful to themselves, and at any rate not violently harmful to man or beast.”

The Loup River, Alpes Maritimes 1936 by Sir Winston Churchill 1874-1965

THE LOUP RIVER, ALPES MARITIMES, 1930. Oil on canvas. 20 1/8×24 (51·5×61). Presented by the artist 1955. Exh: R.A., 1947 (174); R.A. Diploma Gallery, March–August 1959.
The picture was painted in 1930, and the site lies about five hundred yards from where the main Cagnes to Grasse road crosses the river.
It was one of the two pictures Churchill exhibited at the R.A. in 1947 and were submitted to the Selection Committee under the name ‘David Winter’.

Churchill soon found that watercolours were not his ideal medium, and instead switched to the more robust medium of oil paint – as ‘you can more easily paint over your mistakes’. Early encouragement came from an amateur prize he won for “Winter Sunshine, Chartwell,” a bright reflection of his Kentish home. Also, under the pseudonym Charles Morin, he sent five paintings to be exhibited at the Paris Salon in the 1920s, where four were sold for £30 each. However, making money was not the incentive, then or ever. It was simply the sheer delight of painting that accounted for Churchill’s devotion.

Image of painting by Winston Churchill, Tower of the Koutoubia Mosque.

Tower of the Koutoubia Mosque. Signed with initials ‘W.S.C.’ (lower right). Oil on canvas. 45.7 x 61 cm.
The world auction record holder for Churchill sold on behalf Angelina Joli for £8,285,000 in January 2021 the only painting Churchill completed during WW2 and gifted to President Roosevelt, probably the most historically Important picture by Churchill.

He readily received tuition and guidance from some of the leading artists of the day such as Sir John Lavery, Sir William Nicholson and Walter Richard Sickert. This led, in 1947, to the then president of the Royal Academy, Sir Alfred Munnings, suggesting Churchill submit two works to the annual Summer Exhibition. Churchill was eventually persuaded, on the proviso that they be submitted under the pseudonym of David Winter. Both pictures were accepted, with one being acquired later for the National Collection by the Tate. A few years later during the first post-war Royal Academy Dinner in 1949, Churchill was made an Honorary Academician (Hon, R.A), the first and so far, only person to be awarded this honour.

Image of painting by Winston Churchill, JUG WITH BOTTLES

JUG WITH BOTTLES, signed W.S.C. (lower right). Oil on canvas board. Unframed: 51 by 35.5cm.; 20 by 14in.
Painted at Chartwell sold in Nov 2020 for £983,000

Churchill had a true craftsman’s dedication to his art and readily accepted the advice to visit Avignon and later the Cote d’Azur where he discovered artists who worshipped at the throne of Cezanne. He also acknowledged the inspiration he derived from his many visits to Marrakech, Morocco.

Image of painting by Winston Churchill, MIMIZAN

MIMIZAN, signed with initials. Oil on canvas, 56.5 by 36cm.; 22¼ by 14in. Executed circa the 1920s
SImage of painting by Winston Churchillold June 20128 for £430,000
Gifted by the Artist to Field Marshal Viscount Montgomery of Alamein in 1950

Churchill sought and found tranquillity in his art. His much-quoted words, summing up his expectations of celestial bliss; “When I get to heaven, I mean to spend a considerable portion of my first million years in painting, and so get to the bottom of the subject…”

Image of painting by Winston Churchill, THE SCUOLA DI SAN MARCO VENICE

THE SCUOLA DI SAN MARCO VENICE, signed with initials. Oil on canvas, 50.5 by 61cm.; 20 by 24in. Executed in 1951.
Churchill loved Venice, he spent his honeymoon there in 1908, this picture was painted on a family holiday at the Lido in 1951.
Sold Nov 2015 for £500,000

By far the best and most enjoyable way to get to know the man and his art is to visit his beloved Chartwell in Kent. Now owned and run by the National Trust, Churchill’s paintings and artefacts are all around the house, but for me the revelation is the Garden studio which is full of Churchill’s paintings, hung corner to corner almost, with his paints, brushes and easel all set out as if he were returning shortly… not to be missed!

Image of painting by Winston Churchill, View of Blenheim Palace through the branches of a cedar

View of Blenheim Palace through the branches of a cedar. Oil on canvas. 61 x 51 cm
A view of Churchill’s childhood home painted in 1920 and gifted to Churchill’s daughter Mary Soames, and sold from her estate collection sale in December 2014
for £566,000

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Hallmarks

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Jenny Knott, Silver and Jewellery Specialist

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Hallmarking is one of the oldest forms of consumer protection. It dates back to 1300 when Edward 1st instituted a statute for the assaying or testing of precious metals. The purpose of this was to make sure that silver in production for domestic use would have the same fineness as that of coin silver. The standard of silver was therefore set as the same as that of coinage. This is ‘sterling’ silver and denotes silver in which pure silver makes up at least 92.5% of the content, the rest being alloy. This alloy is necessary to make pure silver, which is soft and malleable, into silver that is more user friendly, but still attractive and workable.

The hallmark for Paul Storr. London 1810

The hallmark for Paul Storr. London 1810

There is a theory that the term ’sterling’ comes from the word Easterlings – who were people experienced in coin making, from the Eastern German states brought to England in the reign of Henry II to improve the quality of the coinage.
The original statute allowed wardens from the Company of Goldsmiths in London to circulate around the workshops in the city and test the silver and gold. At that time, silver was assayed and marked with the lion’s head, which is still the symbol of the London assay office today. The term for a lion at the time was ‘leopart’ and so it became known as a leopard’s head, though as you can see from the images it is a lion.
Gradually gold too came to be assayed and bore the same leopard’s head mark. In 1363, the maker’s mark started to be added. Originally this was a pictorial mark, as literacy was negligible in much of the population. Over time this changed, and the maker’s or sponsor’s initials became more common. Silver plate, however, bore pictorial marks for many centuries and sometimes still does.
A century later the date letter was added. This came about when the Goldsmiths acquired their own hall and employed an assayer to test and mark pieces that were submitted for testing. The date letter enabled people to know who the assayer at the time had been, and therefore who could be held to account for standards.

Below Victorian hallmark for London 1860

Below Victorian hallmark for London 1860. Maker’s Edward and John Barnard

This gives us three of four marks which we are accustomed to seeing on silver and gold. The final mark is the town of the city. In theory, the Goldsmith’s Hall in London had jurisdiction over the whole of the country, but in practice, it was difficult for provincial makers to bring items to London to be assayed. It is also likely that the London makers took little interest in their provincial colleagues dismissing them as inferior. However, there is plenty of evidence that gold and silver work of high quality was being produced all over the country and there was a demand to have this recognised. In 1423 Henry VI appointed York, Newcastle, Lincoln, Norwich, Bristol, Salisbury and Coventry as having their own borough mark or ‘touch’; albeit that the London Goldsmiths still claimed the right of control over all silver and gold. These days early provincial marks are highly sought after as these assay offices have long since closed. It’s worth noting that although certain cities have a reputation for particular items, for example Sheffield cutlery, Birmingham small wares, London marks are still associated with the largest and most prestigious commissions.
These days only four assay offices remain in Great Britain – London, Birmingham, Sheffield and Edinburgh.

Hallmark above for Birmingham 1927

Hallmark above for Birmingham 1927. The maker’s mark is Elkington and Co.

Birmingham’s town mark is an anchor, which seems odd given Birmingham’s lack of proximity to the sea. Silversmith, plate maker (and, incidentally, partner of James Watt the engineer) Matthew Bolton set up camp in London to campaign for an assay office in Birmingham so that his burgeoning business could assay their goods locally. The silversmiths of Sheffield adopted a similar campaign. Whilst this lobbying continued, they stayed at the Crown and Anchor Inn and according to tradition, when they were successful in their submissions, they decided to use the symbols of the inn in which they had lodged as their city marks. They tossed a coin and Birmingham and got the anchor and Sheffield the Crown.

The £50 note with Matthew Boulton and James Watt.

The £50 note with Matthew Boulton and James Watt

In 1975 Sheffield changed its mark to a rose and in the same year, the assay offices brought their date letters, which had been individually attributed to each office, into alignment. Now all assay offices have the same year letter. Originally the date letters were changed on the day that the Goldsmith’s guild wardens were elected, which was St Dunstan’s day – May 19th. The Hallmarking Act of 1973 bought the remaining four British offices London, Birmingham, Sheffield, and Edinburgh into line with each other the date letter now changing on January 1st each year.
So next time you glance at the back of your fork and see those four little marks winking at you, you will know the centuries of history that caused them to look as they do.

Back to Life, Back to Reality

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Alastair Meiklejon, Senior Valuer

Back to Life, Back to Reality… Time to Review Home Security and Update Insurance Valuations?
Cobwebs.
Not something I thought I would ever write about, but this week I went to my summer house and caught a glimpse of the fantastic, top of the range Peloton exercise bike that I thought would be a great investment during the first lockdown. My justification was completely sound; “who knows how long this will last, if we can’t go outside then how am I going to get any exercise?” and so it arrived and it was coveted, admired and used extensively for the entire first three weeks of lockdown!
image of peloton bike
However, and possibly along with the rest of the country I then realised that I was maybe not going to see anyone for a while…was it going to be three months, a year? If this was the case, then why was I worried about my appearance! It was around this time it was also considered universally acceptable to maybe have a glass of wine around 3pm…. So, the lovely Peloton bike was now a rather expensive ugly ornament.
images of a home office
Many people during lockdown have made home improvements, refurbished rooms, purchased new items or even gone so far as to build the office or gym in the garden! Online shopping positively boomed during lockdown.

• In 2020 Global sales of art and antiques reached an estimated $50.1billion, and although the figure is down 22% on 2019, it is still above the 2009 recession low, when sales fell by 36% to $39.5 billion.
• Online Sales proved the big winner in 2020 as, despite overall sales dropping, online sales reached a record high of $12.4 billion, doubling in value from 2019 and increasing from 9% of total sales by value in 2019 to 25% in 2020 – the first time e-commerce sales exceeded that of general retail
• 90% of HNW collectors visited an Art Fair or Gallery Online Viewing Room in 2020

As for us, we were on first name terms with our local DPD driver who was bringing items from John Lewis pretty much on a daily basis, and whilst I had never even looked at a KitchenAid mixer before, I now knew it was my destiny to own one and it would somehow make this lockdown better. The similar fuzzy logic that was applied to the purchase of the Peloton bike.
image of kitchenaid mixer
So fast forward to today…
We are all gradually getting back to some form of normality, and as we all leave the house for longer periods of time and some of us return to our workplaces, we should not neglect home security. We need to remember to be vigilant and always think about ‘what the window cleaner can see!’
image of burglar entering a window
In some areas, burglary was reduced by up to 60% during the first lockdown (Source BBC) and whilst we could only hope that those figures will remain, the unfortunate fact remains that with increasing unemployment, they probably won’t.

• Lockdown and Covid means that Valuations are more than ever needed
• Overall sales figures might be down, but prices are not
• Valuations are still vital if a client wishes to be fully covered

So are the figures that you or your client have for home contents accurate, or do they need an up-to-date valuation? Is it time to review assets? To ensure home contents and valuables are correctly valued, so that you are protected and fully covered in the event of a claim?
We think so…

Art Deco Cartier Jewellery

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Aurélia Turrall, Jewellery Specialist

The Early Days of Cartier
In 1847 Louis-Francois Cartier takes over a studio in Paris, joined by his son Alfred, and later by his three grandsons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques. Within a decade their reputation precedes them and they provide jewellery to the Empress and Napoleon’s extended family.
The years 1910-1940 are considered by many experts to be the golden era for Cartier. It employed the finest designers and craftsmen, but not necessarily jewellery designers. They preferred to hire designers from all backgrounds: furniture designers and architects to get a fresh pair of eyes on jewellery design.
During the early 20th century, peace rules and the Exposition Universelle of April 1900 attracts over 50 million guests in 7 months. The Ritz opened its doors in 1898. It is overall a prosperous time during which Cartier move into their new quarters in the luxurious rue de la Paix, in Paris. From then, everything takes off. They have international purchasers, organise exhibitions abroad such as in St Petersburg to showcase exceptional pieces inspired by Easter and Christmas. When they officially open their new atelier (“shop”) rue de la Paix, they combine it with launching a new technique of jewellery making: setting stones and jewels into platinum all the while keeping the traditional style.
It was the beginning of a revolution yet to come in jewellery design and making.
The Beginnings of the Art Deco Movement
It’s generally agreed that the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris was the official launch of the Art Deco movement, though the style can be traced back at least a decade before.
The Great War is the catalyst for the movement to emerge. Women, having done men’s jobs during the war, come out of the shadow and step away from the delicate and fragile attire of the Belle Epoque era with bows, ribbons, swags, flowers, items mounted en-tremblant. From now on, angular stones, baguette and calibré-cut diamonds are favoured along with short hair “à la garçonne” (“like a boy”) and suits, giving women a masculine but sexy look.
Cartier Tank watch
Cartier Tank Original 1919
Art Deco was Synonymous with Freedom and Order
Launched in 1917, created by Louis Cartier and inspired by chaos, comes the Tank Original. This first wristwatch is rectangular, has a creamy-white dial which offsets the bold Roman numerals, chemin de fer chapter ring, with blue steel sword-shaped hands and a sapphire cabochon winder. The prototype was presented to General John Pershing of the American Expeditionary Force by Cartier himself and has become a symbol of chic and luxury.
It is a clear step away from the curves and fussiness of Art Nouveau with clear lines and no frills.
Louis Cartier, supposedly, was inspired by Renault F-17 tanks as seen from above: the brancards representing the tracks of the tank and the square case its main housing.
The wristwatch is a real symbol of freedom. No longer attached to your attire, there is freedom of movement in the wrist. It resonates the desire for structure in the midst of chaos, it celebrates technology and new machinery.
Art Deco Jewellery Echoes New Clothes and Hair Fashion
In jewellery, the Edwardian and Belle Epoque style are no longer accepted. Heavy tiaras are replaced with head pieces called bandeau.
Cartier bandeau
Bandeau Cartier
Queen mother wearing a Cartier bandeau made up of three of the five bracelets which her husband, King George VI bought for her.
Cartier diamond bandeau Christie's
A diamond bandeau by Cartier sold by Christie’s in November 2019 for almost £900,000.
Some more “modest” bandeau would have been set with tarlatan and beads rather than diamonds. Or if jewellery was adorned with diamonds, smaller sized diamonds and gems were used, breaking from the past which favoured very large stones. Pieces were now set with detailed calibré-cut stones, meaning they are usually square or rectangle and cut to fit a piece.
The Art Deco head pieces were light and had straight lines rather than garlands found in Belle Epoque jewellery for example. It fits short hair and with that comes longer earrings for example and sautoir (long necklaces).
Cartier pearl sautoir
A Cartier pearl and diamond sautoir, circa 1925, sold at Christie’s in May 2012. Estimate £60,000-85,000 sold for approx. £400,000
Pearls are an important component for Cartier and were a sure thing to buy, until the Wall Street crash in 1929.
Monochrome Art Deco
In the earlier years of Art Deco jewellery, pieces were monochrome, black and white were key. Using rock crystal, onyx and diamonds as key gems. In the wake of the Great War, many were in mourning.
Cartier rock crystal bangle
A diamond and rock crystal bangle, sold at Christie’s for $204,000 in Oct 2000.
This price reflects the constant desire for the sleek sober but luxurious look of Art Deco monochrome pieces, a style always in vogue and not likely to disappear anytime soon.
Vogue states that “A woman, in Paris, who knows how to dress, is almost always dressed in black. Not through laziness but by sophistication.”
The Move to New Materials and Daring Combinations
As we move forward so does the colour scheme in jewellery. Cartier attempts daring combinations of colours which no one had previously tried. There are two factors which contribute to this new direction. In the Cartier archives, we find that Leon Bakst, a Russian painter and costume designer, and part of the Ballets Russes, was a great source of inspiration for Charles Jacqueau, one of the great designers for Cartier from 1909 until 1954. Leon Bakst had designed costumes for a ballet, Scherehazade, mixing only blues, greens and red. This had a big impact on Jacqueau. This colour combination had always been considered to be of bad taste until Jacqueau decided to take a risk and integrate it in his jewellery designs. Simultaneously, the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922 created waves in the Cartier design. Louis Cartier pushes his designers to familiarise themselves with all things Egyptian: heading to the Louvre to study their collection or simply walking through Paris, filled with Egyptian artefacts, to understand the style. Never before had anyone combined carnelian with turquoise and lapis lazuli, until now.
Renewed interest in Asian art meant that jade, lacquer, coral and enamel were also integrated. At this time, Jacques Cartier, who was running Cartier London, often travelled, and would return with many exquisite gems to be added to the Cartier jewels. These stones could be carved or made into cabochon. Cartier was the first to create these new colour and gem combinations. In the 1970s the style was named Tutti Frutti.
Contrast and Colour comes into Vogue
Collier Hindou
The Collier Hindou
Fransesca Cartier Brickell speaks about this necklace in her book “The untold story of the family behind the jewellery empire, The Cartiers”. The necklace belonged to Daisy Fellowes, the heiress to the Singer sewing machine. She had this necklace commissioned, using her own stones. It was designed to be tied at the back with a black silk cord, as would Indian jewels be. However, the big difference here is the use of sapphire, thought to bring bad luck in India. This is a statement of combining far away travels and traditional Western European gems. His daughter, the Comtesse of Casteja, inherited the necklace and in 1991 it was sold at Sotheby’s for $2,655,172. It was a world record for an Art Deco piece of jewellery sold at auction.
The Constant Desire for Exceptional Jewels
Tutti Frutti bracelet
Tutti Frutti ruby, sapphire, emerald, diamond and enamel bracelet, by Cartier, circa 1930
The meandering vines, set with carved rubies, emeralds, sapphires, calibré-cut onyx, black enamel and diamonds is the perfect marriage of West meets East, a perfect artful arrangement. It belonged to an American family and had been in the family for 30 years. It came up for sale at Sotheby’s on 28th April 2020, during the pandemic. It was presented online only, during a four-day sale, during which five bidders competed to purchase the bracelet. Its estimate was $600-800,000 and sold for $1,340,000. It has become a record for any jewel sold in an online-only auction and any jewel sold at auction in 2020. Sotheby’s stated that it “follows a trend observed across all our global jewellery auctions in 2019 in which more than half of the jewellery buyers place their bids online.” This bracelet also illustrates that demand for such exceptional jewels, even during the most challenging times, will always exist. Cartier’s exceptional savoir-faire is timeless.

How I met the FBI

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by David Dallas, Old Master Specialist

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This article is for those of you who missed the webinar about how I met the FBI.
Twenty years ago when I worked for Johnny Van Haeften in his Duke Street, St James’s Gallery, we became friendly with one of the top guys in the Art Squad.  One day we got a call from him asking us if we could help. Two colleagues in the Danish Art squad, who had been working undercover in Eastern Europe posing as dishonest collectors, were rumbled by the thieves and murdered.  It transpired that when they were confronted with the stolen paintings, they handled them in a very timid, unconvincing way.
So we were asked to give a demonstration to about 20 members of Interpol on how to handle a painting, what to look for and how to pass oneself off as a connoisseur.  Somehow the FBI got to hear of this and asked if they could send two operatives as well. Of course we said “yes” and a husband and wife team of FBI agents duly arrived with the European contingent.
We started by showing them what sturdy things pictures really are, whether they are painted on canvas, panel or copper, they don’t need to be handled with kid gloves.  We didn’t exactly throw the pictures at them, but we let them hold them and pass them around to one another.

The agents were mildly surprised that Johnny and I started examining the pictures by looking at their reverse side first.  We pointed out that Old Master paintings (those painted before 1800), often have collection seals made of sealing wax glued to the panel or stretcher, if it is a painting on canvas.  These seals are the clue to the provenance or history of the painting.  King Charles I even branded the panels in his collection with the royal cypher CR!  In the case of 19th Century paintings, the reverse can often reveal inscriptions and signatures of the artists and 20th Century paintings are very likely to have Exhibition labels glued to the stretcher or frame and these too, can be clues to provenance and also add glamour and prestige to a painting if a label shows it has been exhibited in a major public art gallery.

We also taught them to look at the frames and try to determine what materials they are made of.  If the frame is made of carved wood and then gilded in 24 carat gold leaf, which are very expensive materials, the implication is that this is a painting that someone thought highly of in the past and you should take it seriously, too.
Finally, we turned to the front of the pictures.  We showed our pupils that before we looked at the surface under a magnifying glass, we took in the whole picture to see how well the composition works. Then came the magnifying glass.  If a criminal is watching you whilst you handle the magnifying glass, you have to wield it in a believable manner. You can’t just randomly explore the surface. Johnny and I showed them that we were looking for two things under magnification.
We would look at various different parts of the painting to see how well executed the details were and at the same time, we could determine the condition of the paint layer.  Historic restoration can leave the surface abraded, as the action of wiping a solvent on a rag or cotton wool swab across the paint causes friction and a cleaning solvent that can dissolve old varnish can dissolve paint too.  Original condition is crucial to the value of a painting and any true connoisseur would know that.
The final tool one needs to know about, especially when determining condition, is the Ultra Violet lamp. All experts carry one.  They are just as useful for examining porcelain or furniture as they are for paintings.  They only work in a darkened room.
When you bombard a painting with UV light it gives off a slightly green haze, but any later paint, such as restoration to a damage, shows up black. It gives you a very precise indication of condition.
We showed them how dirty varnish fluoresces turquoise and how to assess what proportion of the surface is new paint.  There then followed a lively session of Q and A and we and the cops parted as good friends. The FBI visited us whenever they were in London.
If you are going to pass yourself off as a connoisseur you have to be confident. So whatever you do, as an undercover cop, when handling a painting do it with brio and you might just live to tell the tale.
To show how tough paintings are I am reminded of a wonderful vignette that took place in New Bond Street one mid-July afternoon in the 1970s.

The last Old Master sale of the season had just taken place at Sotheby’s and a dealer called Raymond Romari had bought a large Flemish landscape on a piece of wavy copper. As chance would have it, New Bond Street was being re-tarmacked and when Raymond stepped out on to the sunny street, he had an idea. In those days, there was a news stand on the street outside Sotheby’s and you had to pay for the Evening Standard then.
Raymond bought two copies and flagged down the driver of the steam roller. He asked him if he would mind driving over his picture! He said he would be delighted to do so. As a small crowd gathered round, Raymond laid one open copy of the Evening Standard on the tarmac, placed the copper panel face down and the second copy of the Evening Standard on top of it. To cheers from the crowd, he waved the steamroller forward. When it had finished its manoeuvre, Raymond had a perfectly flat picture and no paint loss. I think he might have been lucky that he got away with it! Don’t try this at home!