Category Archives: Our Team News

L for Lapis Lazuli

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Lapis lazuli is one of the oldest stones recorded, a favourite gem for amulets and scarabs in ancient Egypt. Lapis lazuli artefacts have been found at excavations of the Predynastic Egyptian site Naqada (3300–3100 BC) and was used for Tutankhamun’s gold mask.

It has been mined as early as 7570 BC in Afghanistan and is mentioned in the Old Testament, referred to as “sapphire”. Exodus 24:10: “And they saw the God of Israel, and there was under his feet as it were a paved work of a sapphire stone…” Scholars agree that the Latin reference to the blue gem “lapidis sapphirine” is in fact lapis lazuli, not sapphire.

The name comes from the Latin lapis, “stone,” and the Persian lazhuward, “blue.” The mineral is formed of multiple components: lazurite, sodalite, calcite, and pyrite – nicknamed “fool’s gold” and appear as gold flecks.

Lapis lazuli is known for its intense blue, with the most prized colours ranging from greenish blue to violetish blue and highly saturated medium to dark tone. If other minerals are present, it will alter its appearance and may have an impact on the desirability. Specks of “gold” pyrite are highly acceptable, however if there is an excess of white calcite the gem will be less valuable. The lower grade lapis lazuli is green and dull in appearance. The more lazurite, the deeper the blue, often referred to as royal blue. The more pyrite, the greener the gem.

Afghanistan, and more specifically the northeastern province of Badakhshan, has always, and still does, produce the most prized lapis lazuli. In fact, the trade name for the highest quality lapis lazuli is nicknamed Persian or Afghan and contains very little or no calcite or pyrite. The condition to access the lapis lazuli are ruthless.

Unfortunately recent events have pushed the mineral to now be classified as a conflict mineral as the “6,500 year old lapis mines are driving corruption, conflict and extremism in the country. Global Witness has found that the Taliban and other armed groups are earning up to 20 million dollars per year from Afghanistan’s lapis mines, the world’s main source of the brilliant blue lapis lazuli stone, which is used in jewellery around the world.”

Other trade names include Russian or Siberian. These variations contain pyrite and might contain some calcite. Chilean is another trade name with obvious calcite traces and often green. Though the names refer to geographic locations, the stones may not be mined there.

Lapis lazuli’s use has always been very versatile. It can be cut into beads, inlaid in rings, fashioned into bowls and carved into ornamental objects.

Due to its intense blue colour, the gem became a favourite amongst Renaissance painters. Lapis lazuli was crushed and the blue pigment was named ultramarine, from the Latin “ultramarinus”, meaning beyond the sea.

The 17th century Dutch painter Johannes Vermeer used this very expensive pigment in abundance in his paintings.

Several others made use of ultramarine in their iconic artworks.

The use of lapis lazuli was synonymous with great wealth. It is not surprising that in the Medici Chapel in Florence the gem is heavily represented, such as on the Altar of the Chapel of Princes.

However due to its classification as a conflict gem, will demand, availability and use in jewellery continue to thrive?

Taking the financial sting out of stressful times

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Death and divorce are two of the most stressful events we will potentially deal with during our lifetime. Navigating either situation is distressing enough without having to deal with the complexities of the financial side as well. When it comes to establishing accurate valuations and future living costs, expert support comes into its own.

Here, our silver and jewellery consultant, Jenny Knott, speaks to the Founder and Managing Director of Pennywise Consultants, Alison Porter, about the synergy between our businesses and the importance of working together to support clients during these difficult and emotional life events.

It takes a village

Most of us are familiar with the saying that it takes a village to raise a child. The idea being that a community of people are required to provide a safe, healthy and nurturing environment where children can thrive. It is such a powerful message that Hillary Clinton adopted it for her book ‘It Takes a Village’.

Pennywise Consultants (experts in lifestyle budgeting for divorce and contentious probate) believe that ‘it takes a village …’ either to get divorced or make a claim under the Inheritance Act 1975. Doerr Dallas also subscribes to this view and we have therefore willingly partnered with Pennywise to ensure that our clients acquire accurate valuations and adequate insurance premiums, both of which are critical for their legal teams to achieve a successful outcome.

What kind of help is available?

As independent experts in financial lifestyle analysis, Pennywise specialises in the creation of impartial lifestyle and household budgets, working with clients to help them establish how much money they need to live their lives. This should never be based on best guesses. A strong, evidence-based schedule is the most successful way to demonstrate your case.

Put simply, if you need to know how much money you require to finance your personal life, as well as your children, pets and property, then Alison and her team are there for you.

For more than a decade, their niche service, analysing expenditure and income streams in divorce cases and Inheritance Act Disputes, has helped countless individuals to achieve fair financial settlements. As Alison says, “Economic fair play is our goal. Accuracy and impartiality are how we achieve it.”

How much is enough?

So, how much money do you need for the rest of your life?

It’s a big scary question, but when you are preparing to challenge how a lovedone’s estate has been divided up, or you’re uncoupling your finances during divorce, it’s crucially important to get it right.

Handing over a list of your expenditures can feel really unnerving, but the Pennywise team acts with the utmost discretion and professionalism. They are kind (but firm), providing the practical support that will help you achieve the fairest financial outcome from a position of strength.

Alison explains, “Whether applied to divorce or contentious probate cases, our Future Budget Estimates give solicitors an evidence based report that can be used in legal proceedings. They need to be robust and withstand cross-examination.

We’re meticulous when it comes to preparing a budget and we can back up every number. We’re also passionate about ensuring clients have a full understanding of their budget so they can face cross examination with confidence.”

“Many of our budgets have led to out of court settlements after being used as an effective mediatory tool so, more often than not, we save our clients some money too.”

Knowing the value

For our part, our Doerr Dallas colleagues are here to ensure you have your possessions and property valued correctly. While most clients are alert to changes in property prices, the fluctuations in valuations of personal belongings may not be front of mind.

Having an up-to-date valuation of your Patek Philippe Nautilus or Hermes Kelly bag is vital, given that it is a legal obligation to disclose the true value of any chattel over £500 in case of a divorce.

It is also crucial, that your less obvious chattels are correctly valued. Many of our clients can find that they are overpaying insurance premiums on certain pictures and items of furniture and vastly underpaying on others. It would be a mistake to think you can import old valuation figures into the arena of divorce or contentious probate and assume this is an accurate assessment.

The problem of undervaluing is familiar to Alison too. “Clients frequently under-estimate the value of their possessions, usually due to lack of knowledge, but sometimes intentionally,” says Alison. “In either case, when they provide an insurance quotation, we need to be sure it is reliable.

We therefore find Doerr Dallas Valuations invaluable when securing quotations both for insurance premiums and security.”

Handbags

The Hermes Birkin 25 bag retails around £7,800 RRP, but sadly you can’t buy one from Hermes, unless you are a regular customer with a long-standing relationship with Hermes. So therefore, you would need to go to the secondary market to find one. However, you can’t buy one for under £25,000.

A good example of when things go the other way are brands, such a Michael Kors, Longchamp – even Versace in some cases!

Watches

The Rolex – Daytona has been around for over 50 years but still looks amazing and people want it more than ever… the base model of the newer incarnations should retail around £12,500 – but again they are difficult to find unless you have a good relationship with your watch retailer, so the secondary market is the only place to go and they will set you back £25,000-£30,000 on average.

Watches that don’t hold their value are certain fashion items, or anything by TAG Heuer. Whilst they present a pretty good buy at usually under £5,000 for a good useable watch, the secondary market sees them plummet to some times in the hundreds, as they just don’t command the respect of the premium brand.

Your trusted team

We are delighted to work with Pennywise knowing that they are trusted by top law firms, often working with high and ultra-high net worth individuals with complex needs, encompassing international lifestyles.

Both Alison’s team and ours at Doerr Dallas will provide impartial, professional valuations and guidance. In addition, we will do our utmost to help clients navigate through what can seem overwhelming, and we will do it with kindness and courtesy.

Oscars 2023, Dazzled by Snakes, Green Gems and Timeless Chic

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Bvlgari strikes again with their Serpenti collection wrapped around Angela Bassett, Cara Delevingne and the outstanding screenwriter Phoebe Waller-Bridge.

Angela Bassett wore matching diamond-set necklace and bangle by Bvlgari, mounted in 18ct white gold. A similar necklace was sold at Sotheby’s in November 2021 with an estimate of CHF 220,000 – 325,000. The necklace set with approximately 70 carats of diamonds sold for CHF 252,000 (approximately £230,000).

Bvlgari retails a diamond-set bangle in white gold for £81,000 and is set with just under nine carats of diamonds.

Angela Bassett

Simpler versions of the bracelet can be found in yellow or rose gold for £5,300.

Matching her Dolce & Gabbana gown, Phoebe Waller-Bridge wore a diamond and emerald-set Serpenti necklace mounted in rose gold.

Bvlgari currently retails a rose gold diamondset Serpenti Viper necklace in rose gold for £45,900, with 4.41 carats of diamonds.

One of the show stoppers of the evening was stunning Cara Delevingne. In the style of Old Hollywood, she embodied chic and glamour in an off the shoulder Elie Saab gown with bow and high leg slit.

The outfit was completed with diamond and emeralds in the form of Serpenti threestrand necklace matching bracelet, Serpenti Seduttori earrings and ring.

From the same Seduttori emerald and diamond collection, a ring currently retails for £12,700. The coiled body is set with 0.57 carat of diamonds and the eyes are highlighted by 0.20 carat pear-shaped emeralds.

Moving away from the Serpenti collection was the appearance of the Diva’s Dream jewellery collection worn by Rainsford Qualley, Andie MacDowell’s daughter.

Chic and understated, the earrings are set with mother-of-pearl and mounted in white gold. The Diva’s Dream mother-of-pearl earring range is priced from £2,130 to £2,760 with a diamond surround.

For those not adorned in Bvlgari, exquisite green-gemmed jewellery certainly made a statement on the red carpet.

Sofia Carson wore a superb Chopard emerald and diamond necklace featuring seven octagonal-shaped emeralds totalling 122.49 carats along with 92.57 carats of pear-shaped, marquise, baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds set in white gold jewellery from the brand’s “Haute Joaillerie Collection.”

Fellow actress Jessica Chastain also opted for Haute Joaillerie collection from Franco- Italian designer Gucci, complementing the strapless sequined gown also by the designer. However, unlike Sofia Carson, the green gems were not emeralds but tsavorites, a form of garnet, 80 carats worth.

Other famous jewellery designer to include the green gem in its design is Cartier, with the famous Panthère collection.

This diamond, onyx, and tsavorite garnet necklace was sold for GBP 37,500 at Sotheby’s in June 2016.

Cartier was certainly a contender for the most jaw-dropping piece of jewellery of this 95th Award ceremony with a large pear-shaped yellow sapphire worn by Deepika Padukone.

Though yellow sapphires are less expensive than yellow diamonds, they are nonetheless breathtakingly beautiful and perfectly accentuate any black outfit!

Understated? Perhaps not quite, but maybe more subtle than the Serpenti collection, the yellow sapphire necklace by Cartier was my winner for this year’s Oscars. Not to say I would turn down being draped in Bvlgari Serpenti jewels to accept my award for best screenplay!

This might just be one Diva’s Dream but then anything’s possible in Hollywood, so carry on dreaming…

The Nude

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For the next in my series of articles on what inspires artist to paint, I have chosen The Nude. This is such a vast subject, that I intend to look at Western Art, exploring only paintings from the Renaissance to the present day. Of course sculpture has a very important part to play in the history of The Nude, but for the most part, I am going to ignore it for brevity’s sake.

Sir Kenneth Clark, as he was then, in his brilliant book “The Nude”, (published by John Murray 1956), begins chapter one thus:

“The English language, with its elaborate generosity, distinguished between the naked and the nude. Naked is to be deprived of our clothes and the word implies some of the embarrassment which most of us feel in that condition. The word nude, carries, in educated usage, no uncomfortable overtone. The vague image it projects into the mind is not of a huddled and defenceless body, but of a balanced, prosperous and confident body: the body re-formed.”

Since classical antiquity, the human body has been central to art. We are mostly familiar with sculpture, as so little painting has survived. During the Renaissance, excavations of ancient sites in Rome, Naples and elsewhere unearthed a vast treasure trove of naked gods and goddesses.

These antiquities invited scholars, collectors and artists alike to embrace a classical notion of ideal beauty and Diana, Venus, Danae, Sea Nymphs and various other creations of Greek and Roman mythology became a rich seam for admirers of the nude to mine. Gods and goddesses seldom wore clothes!

The Bible, too has a store of subjects involving the nude from Adam and Eve in the garden of Eden to Lot and his daughters and Bathsheba.

The obvious potential for eroticism, was reduced by certain conventions in depicting the nude. The bodies, although adult, were hairless and had the look of polished marble rather than flesh – the look of a classical statue, as opposed to a “page 3” girl. This anodyne look, with a few subtle variations, lasted until the mid-19th Century.

There was a convention that allowed little boys to be painted completely naked and they are, frequently, as Cupid and Putti (winged cherubs). Little girls, however, have their lower abdomens covered by draperies. Sometimes adult females are draped too but the folds in the draperies often merely accentuate what is hidden.

The 17th Century ushers in a new aesthetic in Western painting. The dramatic light and shade of Caravaggio’s art in Italy found its way to the North of Europe, via Utrecht artists who worked in Rome. Rembrandt was one who embraced this new realism. When he painted his mistress, Hendrikje Stoffels, as “Bathsheba at Her Bath”, she is very much a woman of flesh and blood. Rembrandt records her rather large feet and hands and slightly tubby torso. He also includes the lump in her left breast, which may have been the cause of her death, aged 39, but her death may have been caused by the Plague, which killed thousands in Amsterdam in 1663. In any event, she is nothing like the classical ideal nude of a century earlier.

With the painting of François Boucher in 18th Century Paris, we return to a notion of ideal beauty. Against a background of political and social turmoil, Boucher depicts a world where elegant and beautiful gods and goddesses float and frolic blissfully.

In the 19th Century painters had a new and potentially devastating invention to contend with, photography. What could a painter do, that a photograph could not? The answer is, interpret the object in front of it, rather than merely record it, which is why, nearly 200 years after the invention of photography we still have war artists.

Édouard Manet’s “Olympia”, exhibited at The Paris Salon in 1865, is partly a return to the ideal, with Olympia’s marmoreal body, but it is also a snapshot of the moment her maid arrives with a bunch of flowers.

In England, three decades after Olympia, John William Godward is painting Campaspe as a living sculpture. She is not as pale as Olympia, but she is definitely statuesque and conventional, to conform with Victorian sensibilities. It is worth remembering that some Victorians draped the legs of their pianos, as legs were suggestive – of what I wonder? Furthermore, librarians separated books by male and female authors, lest they jostle against one another on the bookshelves – I think I know what they are getting at, the possibility of two books turning into a library.

Now we come to the 20th Century, when, as we all know, the rule book is thrown out of the window. There is no norm. Whilst Amadeo Modigliani, is painting an ideal nude, inspired by Italian Renaissance painting, Picasso is producing Cubist nudes in strokes of muted grey and Egon Schiele is producing sexually explicit nudes, which still have the power to shock profoundly and are the subject of censorship in many parts of the world. I’m not going to illustrate one!

Surrealism, of course, has its own take on the nude and Rene Magritte’s “Attempting the Impossible” of 1928 has the artist wearing a brown suit painting a living female nude model in 3-D, standing in the same space that he occupies. It is a witty take on Art imitating Art. The model is little more than a painted statue.

No Study of The Nude is complete without an in depth look at the work of Lucian Freud, a man obsessed with the nude, although he hated the word. In his maturity, he possessed a technique which uses thick impasto (paint) with light scumbles (like light washes) over the top to create a sense of the colour and texture of living flesh. Freud’s sitters are as far removed from the ideal as it is possible to be. The men often appear vulnerable and awkward, as do many of his women.

Sue Tilley, the model for one of his most famous nude portraits, “Benefits Supervisor Sleeping”, became a muse for him in the 1990s. The painting of her asleep on a sofa in Freud’s studio is a masterpiece of observation, empathy and reportage. She is seen from above, lying on his sofa, and the sense of her volume and the space she occupies is breathtaking. She sold at Christie’s for $33.6M, which, at the time, was the world record for a living artist.

The Nude has provoked much thought and inspired the spilling of litres of ink over the centuries. The Guerilla Girls, a group of anonymous American female artists produced a poster of Ingres’ “Grande Odalisque”, a white-skinned female nude seen from behind, with a gorilla’s head and in bold type posed the question: “Do women have to be naked to get into the Met. Museum?” It went on to say “Less than 5% of the artists in the Modern Art Sections are women, but 85% of the nudes are female”.

Through all the convulsions and twists that art has taken from the Renaissance, through Abstraction to the modern day, it is interesting to reflect that Life Classes, drawing the human body using a live model, still go on in every corner of the globe. There are three within a five mile radius of where I live ! To be able to draw the human form is clearly the starting point of all art.

World record prices at auction for the artists mentioned:

Lucas Cranach £9.43M
Cavaliere d’Arpino £325,000
Rembrandt van Rijn £20.2M
François Boucher $2.4M
Édouard Manet $65.126M
John William Godward £1.3M
Amadeo Modigliani $170M
Pablo Picasso $179M
Rene Magritte £59.4M
Lucian Freud $86.2M

New York Leads the Way in Old Masters

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The recent Old Master Sales in New York, at the end of January, were in marked contrast to the December results in London. For a start, there were many more sales, three of them single owner catalogues, but then there are probably more serious collectors of Old Masters in the New York and Boston areas, than the rest of the world put together!

The combined sales of Christie’s and Sotheby’s totalled $171.5M (£139.4M), beating the previous New York record of $133M (£97.1M), achieved in 2021 and dwarfing the £51.05M for London in December.

Apart from the huge number of good collections and collectors in the Eastern Seaboard of the USA, a minor contributing factor to the success of that arena, is that New York is the favoured destination for UK dealers to place their “sleepers” (discoveries), which, like all paintings, will forfeit 20% of their gross profit if sold in the UK. The USA is treated as an export sale and, therefore, is exempt for dealers operating under “The Special Scheme” for art and antiques.

I have chosen three pictures from these sales to illustrate, because they are the three I would most like to take home, perhaps in my next life.

The continued strengthening of prices for Old Masters means that anyone who owns one should consider having it revalued.

A few of my favorite glitz from the SAG Awards 2023

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This year’s big winner of the evening was the family adventure Everything Everywhere All at Once whose leading actress Michelle Yeoh won the award for Female Actor in a Leading Role.

Just as she did for the Bafta, she dazzles us once again with spectacular pieces by Moussaieff including a yellow diamond and diamond ring, set with a 21.02 carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond between pear-shaped diamond shoulders.

To put this into perspective, a 3.03 carats Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond ring mounted in platinum is currently up for sale at Sotheby’s online for USD 195,000. I leave it to your imagination to work out the cost of the above 21 carats diamond!

She paired the ring with a pair of chandelier yellow diamond and diamond earrings.

The earrings are set with 24.70 carats of pear shaped Fancy Intense Yellow diamonds, and 11.08 carats of pear-shaped and brilliant-cut white diamonds.

The outfit was finished with a Richard Mille wristwatch for which she is also a brand ambassador.

Fellow actor Ke Huy Quan, who won the Outstanding Performance by Male Actor in a Supporting role category and made history by being the first Asian actor to win this SAG award, looked dashing with a De Beers brooch from The Alchemist of Light high jewellery collection, set with a 2.70 carat oval Fancy Grey diamond within a blue aluminium surround.

The beautiful collection by De Beers include the Ascending Shadows Small Earrings.

Set with two central diamonds each weighing 1.01 carats and 1.02 carats, E, VS2, within a surround of diamond, the total weight adding to 6.30 carats and mounted in 18 carat white gold, 18 carat rose gold, titanium & aluminium. These currently retail for £94,500. Similar designs of the collection include a headband, necklace and cocktail ring.

Other red carpet nominees and actors wearing De Beers exceptional pieces included Angela Bassett, Li Jun Li, Hannah Einbinder, and Katherine Waterston. Cara Delevingne dazzled in a “few” De Beers pieces.

These included: The Alchemist of Light ‘Midnight Aura’ Necklace set in 18 carat white gold with 74.73 carats of diamonds, The Alchemist of Light ‘Midnight Aura’ Earrings set in 18 carat black rhodium plated white gold with 9.58 carats of diamonds, a diamond line bracelet set in platinum with 17.03 carats of diamonds, Volute Ring set in platinum with 6.80 carats of diamonds, Adonis Rose Pear
Diamond Ring set in platinum with 5.40 carats of diamonds, a diamond eternity band set in platinum with 6.14 carats of diamonds, and a round brilliant diamond eternity band set in platinum with 7.15 carats of diamonds.

The Volute diamond ring can be yours for USD 218,000.

One of my favourite red carpet actresses is Zendaya. She is faultless! And this year’s 29th ceremony of the SAG awards was no exception. Nominated for Best Female Actor in a Drama Series for her starring role as Rue in HBO’s Euphoria, she paired her pastel pink Valentino Haute Couture gown with a Bvlgari bib necklace set with aquamarine, tanzanite and morganite.

Later that night, to present an award, she changed outfits and wore a Bvlgari chocker centrally-set with an oval -shaped aquamarine.

I always say that a red carpet is not quite complete without a Bvlgari Serpenti necklace. Emily Blunt’s Oscar de la Renta gown was styled with a pink gold choker with diamonds and rubies from Bvlgari’s
new collection celebrating Serpenti’s 75th anniversary, along with pavé diamond earrings and a platinum ring.

A similar Bvlgari Serpenti diamond and ruby necklace sold at Sotheby’s in July 2022 for HKD 1,625,000 (approximately £171,375).

 

One can have its own Bvlgari Serpenti collection with this Serpenti Seduttori ring for £9,000 or Serpenti necklace for £20,900.

And who knows, perhaps draped in Bvlgari, the SAG awards might have the pleasure of having you walk down its red carpet next year…

Who wore what, your guide to the BAFTA 2023 glitz

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Since 2010, the Prince of Wales has been the President of the Baftas and on Sunday, the Princess of Wales, was, as always, an example of chic, elegance and forward thinking while restyling an Alexander McQueen dress she previously wore in 2019.

She paired the white one-shouldered gown with Cascading floral earrings by Zara, selling for £17.99.

The Prince of Wales was seen wearing a Rolex while the host of the BAFTAs, Richard E. Grant was spotted wearing two watches: a Tank by Cartier, set to UK time, gifted by his wife and a chronograph set to Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) in memory of his late father.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other dapper attendees included Regé-Jean Page, who combined his fitted suit with diamond double-clips. These clips are a classic of the 1920s and are typically set with brilliant, baguette and calibré-cut diamonds. Calibré-cut stones are gems that have been cut to fit a precise setting.

Sotheby’s had a sale estimate of CHF 4,800-7,500 for this diamond double-clip brooch in July 2022 and in fact advertised it worn in a similar manner as Regé-Jean Page.

He also sported a Cartier watch, Santos de Cartier, which ranges from £3,550 for a small model steel design to £61,000, mounted in rose gold.

Regé-Jean Page was not the only one seen wearing the diamond clips on a suit. Fellow actor Paul Mescal wore a similar clip by Cartier.

Regé-Jean Page was not the only one seen wearing the diamond clips on a suit. Fellow actor Paul Mescal wore a similar clip by Cartier.

Designed by Francesca Amfitheatrof, it is connected to uniform rows of silver Tahitian pearls together with matching earrings. “Your effort to focuson rewearing and repurposing led us to this necklace. Using Tahitian pearls, gold, diamonds and a 23.78 carats Nigerian Tourmaline, all from existing pieces. I loved making this necklace for you!” said Amfitheatrof.

The actress also wore a gold and diamond ring from Louis Vuitton Stellar Times High jewellery collection, for which she has been a brand ambassador since June 2022. Other jewellery designers have reinvented their collection using their legacy designs. “Frédéric Boucheron innovated, over 130 years ago, with feather creations strong in symbolism and style” and at this year’s BAFTAs Angela Bassett looks sublime wearing the brands Plume de Paon earrings.

Measuring 6cm and set with under 6 carats of diamonds, the earrings retail for £94,100 in white gold and £85,500 in rose gold. You can read more about the stunning creations from the designer in my article B for Boucheron.

Other show stoppers included the jewellery by Moussaieff worn by Michelle Yeoh.

Moussaieff is renowned for its exceptional gems, including diamonds weighing up to 100 carats for sale in their Bond Street store. The items worn by the actress did not disappoint when it comes to the wow factor. She was seen wearing a Burmese ruby and diamond bangle, diamond earrings, and Burmese pink sapphire ring to complement her pink Dior outfit. To finalise the look, she opted for a Richard Mille wristwatch. One of the most unique watches by the brand, RM27-04 Rafael Nadal, can be bought for just under £2 million on the secondary market.

If over a £1 million is simply too much to spend on a watch, why not “settle” for a beautiful Omega wristwatch, seen worn by Eddie Redmayne.

The actor is brand ambassador and does his job to perfection! The pink dial steel Omega Constellation currently retails for £2,900.

But a red carpet event would not be complete without some Bvlgari Serpenti necklaces. This was the jewellery of choice for a few actresses, such as Lashana Lynch, who very cleverly wore the seprent’s head in her back with matching earrings (currently out of stock but retailing for £29,500 and set with a little over 2 carats of diamonds). A similar necklace was sold at Sotheby’s for USD920,000 in April 2019.

Julianne Moore effortlessly wore the Bvlgari necklace, or perhaps were there two or three?

Red carpets are always a delight to discover new jewels, and ways of wearing them and pairing them  with outfits. Let there be sparkles and glitz!

The Art of Picasso

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Pablo Picasso died on April 8, 1973, which makes 2023 the 50th anniversary of his death. Incidentally it is also exactly 50 years since I started my career in the Art world at Thomas Agnew in Old Bond Street, where I first had the privilege of handling Picasso’s work.

Picasso was very much a polymath, sculptor, printmaker, ceramicist and all round genius who was always making art and is widely regarded as one of the most influential artists of the 20th century. He was a pioneer of the Cubist movement and his groundbreaking works continue to captivate audiences around the world. On the 50th anniversary of his death, it is a time to reflect on his legacy and contribution to art and the world. Picasso’s works can be seen in many of the world’s most famous museums and galleries, and continue to inspire new generations of artists.

His impact on the art world continues to be felt today and many very well known and highly regarded artists have been influenced by Picasso’s groundbreaking style and innovative techniques, including:

  1. Georges Braque: A close collaborator of Picasso’s during the development of Cubism, Braque was deeply influenced by Picasso’s work and the two artists had a major impact on each other’s style.
  2. Juan Gris: A Spanish painter and sculptor, Gris was also a key figure in the Cubist movement and was heavily influenced by Picasso’s work.
  3. Henri Matisse: While Matisse is known for his distinctive style, he was also influenced by Picasso’s use of colour and form, and the two artists maintained a close friendship throughout their careers.
  4. Joan Miró: A Spanish surrealist artist, Miró was inspired by Picasso’s bold experimentation with form and colour, and the two artists were close friends.
  5. Frida Kahlo: While Kahlo is primarily known for her distinctive self-portraits, she was also influenced by Picasso’s innovative approach to portraiture and the two artists shared a close friendship.

Place and culture was a great influence on Picasso and he lived in many different places throughout his life, some of the most significant include;

  1. Barcelona, Spain: Picasso was born in Malaga, Spain, but spent much of his childhood and early artistic career in Barcelona.
  2. Paris, France: In 1904, Picasso moved to Paris, which was then very much seen as the centre of the art world, and he lived and worked there for many years. During this time, he was associated with the Cubist movement and developed many of his most famous works.
  3. Cannes and Antibes, France: After World War II, Picasso spent much of his time in the south of France, living and working in the towns of Cannes and Antibes.
  4. Mougins, France: In 1961, Picasso moved to the small town of Mougins in the south of France, where he lived until his death in 1973.

Pablo Picasso’s work can be divided into several distinct periods, each characterised by its own dominant colour palette. Some of the most well-known colour periods of Picasso’s work are:

  1. The Blue Period (1901-1904): During this period, Picasso’s works were primarily painted in shades of blue and blue-green, with themes of poverty, loneliness, and sadness.
  2. The Rose Period (1904-1906): This period saw a shift to warmer, pinkish hues, and the introduction of more playful themes such as circus performers and harlequins.
  3. The African-Influenced Period (1907-1909): In this period, Picasso was influenced by African art and started incorporating abstract and geometric shapes into his works, resulting in a bold and experimental style.
  4. The Analytical Cubism Period (1909-1912): During this period, Picasso and Georges Braque developed the style of Analytical Cubism, characterised by fragmented and abstracted forms.
  5. The Synthetic Cubism Period (1912-1919): This period saw a further simplification of form, with the use of cut-out paper and printed materials incorporated into the paintings.

While these are some of the most significant colour periods of Picasso’s work, it is important to note that Picasso was always experimenting and evolving, and his style changed frequently throughout his very long career of almost unceasing endeavour to make art.

Some of his most well-known works include:

There are dozens of exhibitions taking place around the globe all marking this major anniversary each taking a differing approach, the link below gives you a taste of their variety dates and locations, hopefully you will be able to get to see at least one of them to witness for yourself the energy and sheer creative genius of Pablo Picasso.

Click here to read more about the dozens of exhibitions worldwide marking the 50th anniversary of Pscasso’s death.

 

Helen’s guide for that special Valentine’s day gift

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Valentine’s is a day that is dedicated to love. It originated as a Christian feast day honouring Saint Valentine, a martyr who lived in the 3rd century AD. It is now a day for people to express their love and appreciation for their significant others, friends, and family.

Some people choose to exchange gifts of jewellery and what better gift than one that you can see your loved one wear and can make a great investment for the future. The gift that keeps on giving!

Here is Helen’s guide and suggestions on the perfect gift for Valentine’s Day.

Firstly, let’s look at the things to consider when choosing jewellery:

A good thing to consider is the rarity of a piece. Antique or vintage jewellery can increase in value due to its rarity. Jewellery set with fine quality gemstones can also command very high prices at retail and auction.

Rubies and pink sapphires make an excellent choice for valentine’s day.

The Italian Jeweller Pomellato have some beautifully designed gem-set jewellery that sells very well at auction. This beautiful bracelet was estimated £4000 – £6000 at Bonhams in 2022.

Below is an example of a 4.02ct ruby that sold at Sotheby’s in 2021 for $63,000. The excellent quality stone was accompanied by a report from GRS (Gem Research Swiss lab) stating that the ruby was of Mozambican origin with no indications of heating.

As well as rarity, the quality and craftsmanship of a piece of jewellery can make a huge difference to its value. High-quality jewellery made with fine materials and gemstones can also increase in value over time.

Another important factor is market demand. Diamond jewellery is always in high demand and popular both at retail and auction. Diamond single stone rings remain the most popular choice for an engagement ring. Other examples of popular diamond jewellery include earrings, pendants, and bracelets.

Here is an example of a stunning diamond line bracelet by De Beers retailing for £92,500. De Beers are famous for their exquisite selection of diamond jewellery.

Jewellery made by some well-known brands and designers, such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. can make great investments and they also have many romantically themed designs perfect for Valentine’s Day.

Pieces from these brands often increase in value over time due to their popularity.

Here is an example of a Cartier Love bangle that went through auction in 2005 and sold for £600 including premium. This bangle in today’s market would sell for more than £4000. That’s a huge increase in value.

Bonhams 2005 Cartier love bangle sells for £600.

Bonhams 2022 Cartier love bangle sells for £4080.

Diamonds also make a great investment and remain a classic choice for Valentine’s Day.

This is a colour D, IF clarity diamond is valued at over £100,000.

Diamonds have been traded since the 4th century, they have stood the test of time and this longevity is a testament to their strength, rarity and beauty.

In many ways their value is protected by rising mining, manufacturing, shipping, and insurance costs involved in bringing a diamond to market and this helps to maintain their value.

As Marilyn Monroe sang… “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend.”

The best way to select a diamond is to familiarise yourself with their grading system. During the middle of the 20th century The Gemmological Institute of America (GIA) created a grading system for diamonds. It is now recognised globally as the universal method for assessing the quality of a stone.

It can be extremely helpful as it tells you the quality of what you are purchasing and its these specific details that establish a diamonds value.

The system focuses on the Four C’s, which stand for Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat.

Colour

When it comes to colour in diamonds, it’s more about what you can’t see. When grading colour, we are assessing the absence of colour, a measurement of the degree of colourlessness in a stone.

It’s measured from D (perfectly white) to M (Yellow) see the below scale.

The most valuable on the scale are pure white, D colour.

Clarity

The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale has six categories

  • Flawless (FL) No inclusions and no blemishes visible under 10x magnification
  • Internally Flawless (IF) No inclusions visible under 10x magnification
  • Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2) Inclusions so slight they are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification
  • Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2) Inclusions are observed with effort under 10x magnification, but can be characterized as minor
  • Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2) Inclusions are noticeable under 10x magnification
  • Included (I1, I2, and I3) Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification which may affect transparency and brilliance

Here is a visual example of the clarity scale

The most valuable having a clarity grade of flawless, most commercial diamonds have a clarity of VS / SI.

Here is an example of a colour D, clarity IF diamond selling for £500,000.

Carat

A diamonds weight is represented by carat weight. All else being equal, diamond price increases with diamond carat weight because larger diamonds are rarer and more desirable. The increase in price between a 0.99ct diamond and a 1.00ct diamond is huge even though there is a very minute size difference, this is because commercially a 1.00ct diamond is more desirable.

Cut

A diamond with optimum proportions and cut will display the best amounts of fire and brightness, that lovely effect that makes diamonds so unique and beautiful. You will often see the grade of a cut ranging from excellent to poor recorded on certificates.

Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. select the best quality diamonds for their jewellery.

Designer Jewellery

Cartier

Cartier is a very well-known luxury jewellery brand with a long history of creating luxurious and elegant jewellery, here are some of their most popular designs.

The Love Collection

The Cartier Love Collection is a classic design that has become synonymous with the brand. It’s simple, yet elegant with designs available in gold and platinum and some set with diamonds and gemstones.

Both diamond love bracelets retail for £40,700, the rose gold version would work particularly well for Valentine’s Day.

This plain rose gold version retails for £6350.

The Trinity Collection

The Cartier Trinity Collection is also a very popular choice. Made up of three bands of yellow, white, and rose gold, the pieces are said to be a symbol of love, friendship, and loyalty. A great message to send on Valentine’s Day.

They are available in a variety of styles with some set with diamonds.

Here is one of the more commonly seen versions with diamonds set to one of the bands.

This diamond set example retails for £6,150.

This diamond set version retails for £32,400 and would make a lovely gift with its use of rose, yellow and white gold.

There are also pendants, earrings, and bracelets available in the same design.

A very rare version is a bangle set with white, pink, and yellow diamonds, which retails for £250,000!

Cartier are not only known for their jewellery but also have a great selection of watches. The Tank Française watch is a classic design that was first introduced in 1917. It has since become one of the brand’s most iconic watches. These watches are very popular and sell well, they are perfect for someone looking for an alternative to jewellery on Valentine’s Day. Cartier also have a great selection of gentleman’s watches.

This gold and diamond Tank Française retails at Cartier for £26,300.

This stainless-steel version retails for £4200.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Another famous jewellery brand is Van Cleef & Arpels (VCA). Two models which are hugely popular and collectable are the ‘Alhambra’ and ‘Ballerina’.

The iconic Alhambra design has clovershaped motifs often set with various gemstones. They come in various designs such as long chains, bracelets, rings, and earrings.

The red gem Carnelian is set in this Alhambra VCA pendant and retails for £1490.

The malachite version of the Alhambra design is now very rare and no longer produced by VCA, therefore the secondary market has overtaken the retail price when the piece was still available.

This one sold for £28,000 at Christies in 2018. Another iconic design by VCA is the Ballerina collection which features delicate, dancing ballerina-inspired designs. They were inspired by a collaboration with Benjamin Millepied, the new dance director at the Paris Opéra, and his wife, the actress Natalie Portman.

These designs are no longer produced by VCA and make great money when they come up at auction.

The above turquoise, ruby and diamond Ballerina brooch by Van Cleef & Arperls sold for $218,000 in 2017 at Christies New York.

This diamond, ruby, sapphire, and emerald version sold for £6000 at auction in 2010. They would make a great gift if a loved one who has a passion for dancing, or perhaps you met on a wedding dance floor!

Tiffany & Co.

We couldn’t talk about great jewellery designers without mentioning Tiffany & Co. They have released many iconic designs over the years and here are some examples of their most popular.

The “Return to Tiffany” Collection features classic and timeless designs, such as heart lockets and charm bracelets engraved with ‘Return to Tiffany & Co. New York’ its most famous store.

Tiffany & Co. are particularly well-known for their diamond engagement rings; in fact, the “Tiffany Setting” ring is iconic. Rings can sell for hundreds of thousands of pounds depending on the quality and size of the diamond. Perhaps the epitome of romantic jewellery, a Tiffany engagement ring!

Another great example of Tiffany & Co jewellery is designed by Jean Schlumberger. He was one of the 20th century’s most gifted artists and his designs have been described as deeply imaginative, as well as being extremely desirable.

This beautiful enamel bracelet retails for just under £50,000.

Schlumberger’s designs at Tiffany & Co. were known for their whimsical interpretations of natural forms. He was especially inspired by sea creatures and other animals. Now he is most known for his enamel bangles and his diamond kisses rings. These are extremely popular at retail and at auction.

The kisses ring retails for £11,200.

Schlumberger began working for Tiffany & Co in 1956 and his original designs can sell for very high prices at auction.

This bird on a rock brooch set with a large Citrine weighing 61.20ct sold for £37,000 at auction.

Antique Jewellery

Art Deco

Antique jewellery can also make a great investment and is often romantically themed.

Art Deco jewellery is characterised by its geometric shapes and bold use of colour, making it a popular and romantic choice for special occasions.

Engagement rings from the Art Deco period are very popular, the target design was given as a token of love because it represented the bullseye shot by cupid’s arrow.

This diamond and ruby Art Deco target ring retails for £46,000.

Art Deco jewellery also sells very well at auction.

Victorian Jewellery

Queen Victorian reigned from 1839 to 1901 and the styles of the Victorian period are very intimately connected with the different stages in her life.

In 1840 Queen Victoria married the love of her life Prince Albert and this had a huge influence on jewellery styles. The theme for jewellery was love with motifs of hands, hearts, crosses, and knots to represent an eternal bond between two people. Snakes also featured, symbolising promise and being in love forever.

This diamond heart retails for £1500 and is set with 0.50ct of rose-cut diamonds a cut often used in the Victorian period.

This Victorian Lovers knot ring is another example of the romantic jewellery from the Victorian period. This retails for £1300.

This example of a ‘forget me not’ ring is set with an onyx that has been beautifully decorated with bright cushion-cut diamonds in the shape of a pansy. The pansy represents the message ‘pensée à moi’ which translates to ‘think of me’.

The theme of romance remained abundant throughout Victoria’s reign with lockets becoming increasingly popular. Wearers enjoyed holding pictures of loved ones inside.

Valentine’s Day is a special time to show your love and a piece of jewellery can be the perfect way to do so.

So, why not make this Valentine’s Day extra special with a beautiful and meaningful gift that’s lasts a lifetime and says I love you.

But remember to add to your insurance policy and get an up-to-date valuation next Valentine’s Day as the retail replacement value may have increased!

The Ivory Bill – Addressing the Elephant in the room

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What it means for you and your clients

February 2020, Rachel Doerr and I were sat in the law offices of Mishcon de Reya, having been asked to attend a discussion debating the 2018 Ivory Bill and how the enforcement and understanding of it would take place. Fast forward two months, and due to Covid, Ivory was the last thing on the minds of the government, or anyone else for that matter.

So, 2023 we are now at the point where the Ivory Bill of 2018 should now be clear in everyone’s minds, if you own ivory, or have clients with ivory – it’s even more important.

What Is It?

The Ivory Bill of 2018 was created to ensure that the United Kingdom was at the forefront of regulatory measures to assist in the reduction of the worldwide trade of ivory.

What was wrong with the old legislation?

To put it in simple terms – the understanding of the law. Many people unknowingly sold or bought ivory items that by definition, were illegal – but without expert opinion (and in some cases carbon dating equipment) it would have been impossible to be sure of what items were and were not legal, so the Ivory Bill 2018 was created.

What does the ivory bill mean now, in 2023?

The sale of most items of ivory within the United Kingdom is now illegal, therefore they will have no commercial value, there are some exemptions – here are the published examples by The Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs;

1. De minimis

Items with a volume of less than 10% by volume, and which were made prior to 1947. Items with this volume of ivory are not traded for their ivory content, and as such do not contribute to poaching. This limit will mean the UK has amongst the toughest approaches to this category of exemption internationally.

2. Musical instruments

Musical instruments with an ivory content of less than 20% and which were made prior to 1975. This will cover the vast majority of commonly used and traded instruments and accessories, such as pianos and violin bows.

3. Portrait miniatures

Portrait miniatures produced prior to 1918. Portrait miniatures are a discrete category of item which, although painted on thin slivers of ivory, are not valued for their ivory content. Sales of portrait miniatures will not fuel, directly or indirectly, the continued poaching of elephants.

4. The rarest and most important items of their type

Items made of, or containing, ivory produced prior to 1918 which are assessed by an independent advisory institution as of outstandingly high artistic, cultural or historical value, and are an example of the rarest and most important item of their type. These items are not valued for their ivory content, and the trade in them will not fuel the poaching of elephants.

5. Museums

Commercial activities which include sales, loans and exchanges to, and between, accredited museums. This ban will not affect the display of historic, artistic and cultural items to members of the public by accredited museums.

How does this impact my clients who own items of ivory?

If your client owns any items that fall outside of the exemptions this means they have no commercial value in the United Kingdom and cannot be sold under the Act.

If they are Exempt this means they potentially have a monitory value and will require a certificate of exemption from DEFRA to prove this before you can sell the item using the declare ivory scheme or hire out service.

It has become clear that some major insurers are now asking for any item that contains ivory to now have a certificate of exemption before it is insured – this can include many items, from furniture, to silver, and many other items. This will mean having a DEFRA certificate in the name of the client, not the retailer that it may have been purchased from.

Ivory was used for many purposes in the 17th to 19th centuries whether that be for decorative or practical purposes and people may be surprised as to what includes ivory in their construction.

At Doerr Dallas Valuations we can help clients identify what may need certificates, and assist them in applying for them – speak to our team to find out how you can make sure you or your clients don’t fall through the cracks of this legislation that will impact the industry nationwide.