Helen’s guide for that special Valentine’s day gift

Valentine’s is a day that is dedicated to love. It originated as a Christian feast day honouring Saint Valentine, a martyr who lived in the 3rd century AD. It is now a day for people to express their love and appreciation for their significant others, friends, and family.

Some people choose to exchange gifts of jewellery and what better gift than one that you can see your loved one wear and can make a great investment for the future. The gift that keeps on giving!

Here is Helen’s guide and suggestions on the perfect gift for Valentine’s Day.

Firstly, let’s look at the things to consider when choosing jewellery:

A good thing to consider is the rarity of a piece. Antique or vintage jewellery can increase in value due to its rarity. Jewellery set with fine quality gemstones can also command very high prices at retail and auction.

Rubies and pink sapphires make an excellent choice for valentine’s day.

The Italian Jeweller Pomellato have some beautifully designed gem-set jewellery that sells very well at auction. This beautiful bracelet was estimated £4000 – £6000 at Bonhams in 2022.

Below is an example of a 4.02ct ruby that sold at Sotheby’s in 2021 for $63,000. The excellent quality stone was accompanied by a report from GRS (Gem Research Swiss lab) stating that the ruby was of Mozambican origin with no indications of heating.

As well as rarity, the quality and craftsmanship of a piece of jewellery can make a huge difference to its value. High-quality jewellery made with fine materials and gemstones can also increase in value over time.

Another important factor is market demand. Diamond jewellery is always in high demand and popular both at retail and auction. Diamond single stone rings remain the most popular choice for an engagement ring. Other examples of popular diamond jewellery include earrings, pendants, and bracelets.

Here is an example of a stunning diamond line bracelet by De Beers retailing for £92,500. De Beers are famous for their exquisite selection of diamond jewellery.

Jewellery made by some well-known brands and designers, such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. can make great investments and they also have many romantically themed designs perfect for Valentine’s Day.

Pieces from these brands often increase in value over time due to their popularity.

Here is an example of a Cartier Love bangle that went through auction in 2005 and sold for £600 including premium. This bangle in today’s market would sell for more than £4000. That’s a huge increase in value.

Bonhams 2005 Cartier love bangle sells for £600.

Bonhams 2022 Cartier love bangle sells for £4080.

Diamonds also make a great investment and remain a classic choice for Valentine’s Day.

This is a colour D, IF clarity diamond is valued at over £100,000.

Diamonds have been traded since the 4th century, they have stood the test of time and this longevity is a testament to their strength, rarity and beauty.

In many ways their value is protected by rising mining, manufacturing, shipping, and insurance costs involved in bringing a diamond to market and this helps to maintain their value.

As Marilyn Monroe sang… “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend.”

The best way to select a diamond is to familiarise yourself with their grading system. During the middle of the 20th century The Gemmological Institute of America (GIA) created a grading system for diamonds. It is now recognised globally as the universal method for assessing the quality of a stone.

It can be extremely helpful as it tells you the quality of what you are purchasing and its these specific details that establish a diamonds value.

The system focuses on the Four C’s, which stand for Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat.

Colour

When it comes to colour in diamonds, it’s more about what you can’t see. When grading colour, we are assessing the absence of colour, a measurement of the degree of colourlessness in a stone.

It’s measured from D (perfectly white) to M (Yellow) see the below scale.

The most valuable on the scale are pure white, D colour.

Clarity

The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale has six categories

  • Flawless (FL) No inclusions and no blemishes visible under 10x magnification
  • Internally Flawless (IF) No inclusions visible under 10x magnification
  • Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2) Inclusions so slight they are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification
  • Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2) Inclusions are observed with effort under 10x magnification, but can be characterized as minor
  • Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2) Inclusions are noticeable under 10x magnification
  • Included (I1, I2, and I3) Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification which may affect transparency and brilliance

Here is a visual example of the clarity scale

The most valuable having a clarity grade of flawless, most commercial diamonds have a clarity of VS / SI.

Here is an example of a colour D, clarity IF diamond selling for £500,000.

Carat

A diamonds weight is represented by carat weight. All else being equal, diamond price increases with diamond carat weight because larger diamonds are rarer and more desirable. The increase in price between a 0.99ct diamond and a 1.00ct diamond is huge even though there is a very minute size difference, this is because commercially a 1.00ct diamond is more desirable.

Cut

A diamond with optimum proportions and cut will display the best amounts of fire and brightness, that lovely effect that makes diamonds so unique and beautiful. You will often see the grade of a cut ranging from excellent to poor recorded on certificates.

Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. select the best quality diamonds for their jewellery.

Designer Jewellery

Cartier

Cartier is a very well-known luxury jewellery brand with a long history of creating luxurious and elegant jewellery, here are some of their most popular designs.

The Love Collection

The Cartier Love Collection is a classic design that has become synonymous with the brand. It’s simple, yet elegant with designs available in gold and platinum and some set with diamonds and gemstones.

Both diamond love bracelets retail for £40,700, the rose gold version would work particularly well for Valentine’s Day.

This plain rose gold version retails for £6350.

The Trinity Collection

The Cartier Trinity Collection is also a very popular choice. Made up of three bands of yellow, white, and rose gold, the pieces are said to be a symbol of love, friendship, and loyalty. A great message to send on Valentine’s Day.

They are available in a variety of styles with some set with diamonds.

Here is one of the more commonly seen versions with diamonds set to one of the bands.

This diamond set example retails for £6,150.

This diamond set version retails for £32,400 and would make a lovely gift with its use of rose, yellow and white gold.

There are also pendants, earrings, and bracelets available in the same design.

A very rare version is a bangle set with white, pink, and yellow diamonds, which retails for £250,000!

Cartier are not only known for their jewellery but also have a great selection of watches. The Tank Française watch is a classic design that was first introduced in 1917. It has since become one of the brand’s most iconic watches. These watches are very popular and sell well, they are perfect for someone looking for an alternative to jewellery on Valentine’s Day. Cartier also have a great selection of gentleman’s watches.

This gold and diamond Tank Française retails at Cartier for £26,300.

This stainless-steel version retails for £4200.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Another famous jewellery brand is Van Cleef & Arpels (VCA). Two models which are hugely popular and collectable are the ‘Alhambra’ and ‘Ballerina’.

The iconic Alhambra design has clovershaped motifs often set with various gemstones. They come in various designs such as long chains, bracelets, rings, and earrings.

The red gem Carnelian is set in this Alhambra VCA pendant and retails for £1490.

The malachite version of the Alhambra design is now very rare and no longer produced by VCA, therefore the secondary market has overtaken the retail price when the piece was still available.

This one sold for £28,000 at Christies in 2018. Another iconic design by VCA is the Ballerina collection which features delicate, dancing ballerina-inspired designs. They were inspired by a collaboration with Benjamin Millepied, the new dance director at the Paris Opéra, and his wife, the actress Natalie Portman.

These designs are no longer produced by VCA and make great money when they come up at auction.

The above turquoise, ruby and diamond Ballerina brooch by Van Cleef & Arperls sold for $218,000 in 2017 at Christies New York.

This diamond, ruby, sapphire, and emerald version sold for £6000 at auction in 2010. They would make a great gift if a loved one who has a passion for dancing, or perhaps you met on a wedding dance floor!

Tiffany & Co.

We couldn’t talk about great jewellery designers without mentioning Tiffany & Co. They have released many iconic designs over the years and here are some examples of their most popular.

The “Return to Tiffany” Collection features classic and timeless designs, such as heart lockets and charm bracelets engraved with ‘Return to Tiffany & Co. New York’ its most famous store.

Tiffany & Co. are particularly well-known for their diamond engagement rings; in fact, the “Tiffany Setting” ring is iconic. Rings can sell for hundreds of thousands of pounds depending on the quality and size of the diamond. Perhaps the epitome of romantic jewellery, a Tiffany engagement ring!

Another great example of Tiffany & Co jewellery is designed by Jean Schlumberger. He was one of the 20th century’s most gifted artists and his designs have been described as deeply imaginative, as well as being extremely desirable.

This beautiful enamel bracelet retails for just under £50,000.

Schlumberger’s designs at Tiffany & Co. were known for their whimsical interpretations of natural forms. He was especially inspired by sea creatures and other animals. Now he is most known for his enamel bangles and his diamond kisses rings. These are extremely popular at retail and at auction.

The kisses ring retails for £11,200.

Schlumberger began working for Tiffany & Co in 1956 and his original designs can sell for very high prices at auction.

This bird on a rock brooch set with a large Citrine weighing 61.20ct sold for £37,000 at auction.

Antique Jewellery

Art Deco

Antique jewellery can also make a great investment and is often romantically themed.

Art Deco jewellery is characterised by its geometric shapes and bold use of colour, making it a popular and romantic choice for special occasions.

Engagement rings from the Art Deco period are very popular, the target design was given as a token of love because it represented the bullseye shot by cupid’s arrow.

This diamond and ruby Art Deco target ring retails for £46,000.

Art Deco jewellery also sells very well at auction.

Victorian Jewellery

Queen Victorian reigned from 1839 to 1901 and the styles of the Victorian period are very intimately connected with the different stages in her life.

In 1840 Queen Victoria married the love of her life Prince Albert and this had a huge influence on jewellery styles. The theme for jewellery was love with motifs of hands, hearts, crosses, and knots to represent an eternal bond between two people. Snakes also featured, symbolising promise and being in love forever.

This diamond heart retails for £1500 and is set with 0.50ct of rose-cut diamonds a cut often used in the Victorian period.

This Victorian Lovers knot ring is another example of the romantic jewellery from the Victorian period. This retails for £1300.

This example of a ‘forget me not’ ring is set with an onyx that has been beautifully decorated with bright cushion-cut diamonds in the shape of a pansy. The pansy represents the message ‘pensée à moi’ which translates to ‘think of me’.

The theme of romance remained abundant throughout Victoria’s reign with lockets becoming increasingly popular. Wearers enjoyed holding pictures of loved ones inside.

Valentine’s Day is a special time to show your love and a piece of jewellery can be the perfect way to do so.

So, why not make this Valentine’s Day extra special with a beautiful and meaningful gift that’s lasts a lifetime and says I love you.

But remember to add to your insurance policy and get an up-to-date valuation next Valentine’s Day as the retail replacement value may have increased!

The Ivory Bill – Addressing the Elephant in the room

What it means for you and your clients

February 2020, Rachel Doerr and I were sat in the law offices of Mishcon de Reya, having been asked to attend a discussion debating the 2018 Ivory Bill and how the enforcement and understanding of it would take place. Fast forward two months, and due to Covid, Ivory was the last thing on the minds of the government, or anyone else for that matter.

So, 2023 we are now at the point where the Ivory Bill of 2018 should now be clear in everyone’s minds, if you own ivory, or have clients with ivory – it’s even more important.

What Is It?

The Ivory Bill of 2018 was created to ensure that the United Kingdom was at the forefront of regulatory measures to assist in the reduction of the worldwide trade of ivory.

What was wrong with the old legislation?

To put it in simple terms – the understanding of the law. Many people unknowingly sold or bought ivory items that by definition, were illegal – but without expert opinion (and in some cases carbon dating equipment) it would have been impossible to be sure of what items were and were not legal, so the Ivory Bill 2018 was created.

What does the ivory bill mean now, in 2023?

The sale of most items of ivory within the United Kingdom is now illegal, therefore they will have no commercial value, there are some exemptions – here are the published examples by The Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs;

1. De minimis

Items with a volume of less than 10% by volume, and which were made prior to 1947. Items with this volume of ivory are not traded for their ivory content, and as such do not contribute to poaching. This limit will mean the UK has amongst the toughest approaches to this category of exemption internationally.

2. Musical instruments

Musical instruments with an ivory content of less than 20% and which were made prior to 1975. This will cover the vast majority of commonly used and traded instruments and accessories, such as pianos and violin bows.

3. Portrait miniatures

Portrait miniatures produced prior to 1918. Portrait miniatures are a discrete category of item which, although painted on thin slivers of ivory, are not valued for their ivory content. Sales of portrait miniatures will not fuel, directly or indirectly, the continued poaching of elephants.

4. The rarest and most important items of their type

Items made of, or containing, ivory produced prior to 1918 which are assessed by an independent advisory institution as of outstandingly high artistic, cultural or historical value, and are an example of the rarest and most important item of their type. These items are not valued for their ivory content, and the trade in them will not fuel the poaching of elephants.

5. Museums

Commercial activities which include sales, loans and exchanges to, and between, accredited museums. This ban will not affect the display of historic, artistic and cultural items to members of the public by accredited museums.

How does this impact my clients who own items of ivory?

If your client owns any items that fall outside of the exemptions this means they have no commercial value in the United Kingdom and cannot be sold under the Act.

If they are Exempt this means they potentially have a monitory value and will require a certificate of exemption from DEFRA to prove this before you can sell the item using the declare ivory scheme or hire out service.

It has become clear that some major insurers are now asking for any item that contains ivory to now have a certificate of exemption before it is insured – this can include many items, from furniture, to silver, and many other items. This will mean having a DEFRA certificate in the name of the client, not the retailer that it may have been purchased from.

Ivory was used for many purposes in the 17th to 19th centuries whether that be for decorative or practical purposes and people may be surprised as to what includes ivory in their construction.

At Doerr Dallas Valuations we can help clients identify what may need certificates, and assist them in applying for them – speak to our team to find out how you can make sure you or your clients don’t fall through the cracks of this legislation that will impact the industry nationwide.

Art on Yachts

What art to put in your super yacht and how to look after it, might seem to be the ultimate in first world problems, but due to the everincreasing growth of the yacht market, these questions are fast being real issues for many UHNW individuals, with a knock-on effect for the insurance industry.

Ownership of a luxurious super yacht has become the new status symbol for the ultra-wealthy, over taking ownership of a private jet which was the status symbol of 90s and early 2000s. The ability to cruise the Caribbean or the Mediterranean in total privacy in your own floating hotel, whilst simultaneously advertising loudly your enormous wealth carries much appeal to many ultra-wealthy.

Once you have your new super yacht – the decision of what you put in it in terms of artwork is the next challenge – the interiors must match the exterior in the glamour stakes! But housing art on a yacht in a maritime environment brings with it a unique set of concerns and issues – from theft to damage, from casual mishandling by inexperienced staff to the effect of salt in the atmosphere. There are a number of issues which need to be considered from the start when housing art on a yacht.

How to Protect Artwork on Board

With the strength of the art market pushing values ever upwards, it is not unusual for the value of art on board a super yacht to be worth millions of pounds. It is, therefore, essential that owners consider how best to protect their collection on board from damage, bearing in mind that a maritime environment brings with it a unique set of conditions which need to be taken into account. Clearly the most obvious of these factors are ‘physical forces’, such as the variable levels of movement caused by waves and wind. Other factors which can damage or harm artwork on board include:

  • Temperature variations
  • Excessive light and UV
  • Excessive humidity and salt
  • Pests
  • Pollutants
  • Water damage
  • Fire hazards
  • Thieves and vandals
  • Dissociation (the loss of information surrounding the object’s provenance or history)

The air quality and temperature within each room is important: humidity is bad for art, as is salt, air and direct sunlight – you always have to be aware of humidity and heat on board. The most effective way to counter these threats is to try to maintain as stable an environment on boards as possible. Luckily, modern super yachts are now designed with air-conditioning, lighting and humidity control systems that rival those found in art galleries.

As ‘physical forces’ like movement and vibrations are significantly greater at sea, on board artwork must be securely fastened to the yacht or hung with museum glue for extra secure installation. It is also important that owners consider the salinity of the air at sea and how this could affect artworks. In many cases, bespoke framing and cases can help prevent light and external damages as well – the purpose being to create as adding harmonious an environment on board as possible.

Installing Artwork on Yachts Correctly to Reduce the Risk of Damage

Installing artwork on board a moving boat is considerably more complicated than hanging a work of art in a static environment. It is not possible to simply hang a painting on board, not as simple as installing in a client’s house – it needs to be screwed to the wall and secured against sudden movement. The same applies for sculptures and objects, which all need to be fixed firmly and securely. Here ‘museum glue’ comes into play and – it is a clear product that fixes objects to surfaces (though not irrevocably) to stop them shifting in a swell.

Insurance and Security

A working alarm system is an obvious starting point and essential to gain insurance cover. Similarly, special alarm systems which alert the crew to atmospheric changes may be required for higher value collections.

Marine insurance policies are rarely standardised and general marine insurances will not normally cover artwork as a norm, so owners need to insure their artwork on board with a separate and specialist art policy. These policies often require an annual renewal inspection of both the artwork and the general environment in which it is housed, due to the specific nature of the environment on board a ship. Insurance companies generally expect owners to employ a professional art management service to guarantee maximum protection where all possible negative influences are avoided from day one.

It should also be remembered that many contain geographical navigational limits. Beyond such limits, the yacht will be off-cover unintentionally.

Other insurance clauses for art and super yacht owners to consider is that rules and taxation brackets vary between countries, with artwork to be imported and taxed under a ‘temporary admission basis.’ Different import tariffs apply depending on where the ship is physically when the artwork is imported and loaded on board. It is in the owner’s best interests to understand these variations as it will cost dearly if they get it wrong. Import tax rates for importing art in the EU and UK vary from 5% to 13% – a mistake in where art importation is registered can cost dearly.

Strict insurance requirements mean that even museums must fulfil high standards before important pieces are allowed to be shown and the same applies for a super yacht. As a rule of thumb, the more expensive the artwork, the more attention needs to be given to how it is transported, stored and displayed.

Staff Training

Damage to artwork by accident or mishap is one of the most common causes of insurance claims on artwork housed on a vessel. This is not surprising when one considers that most people have very limited experience in how to handle artwork. The scope for costly accidents to happen as a result of unintentional negligence is high and the most efficient way to counter this is to ensure that all staff receive specialist training on how to handle various types of artworks and what to do should an accident happen.

Often these actions are not complicated, and in some cases, they are just common sense, however, if all crew members are made aware of potential threats to artwork, then the risk of expensive mistakes is mitigated. Simple measures such as wearing art handling gloves, and knowing how to carry and store paintings efficiently sound basic but it’s at the core of successful collection management. Equally important is training in what to do in the event of an accident – often more damage can be done unwittingly post-accident than the accident itself. In most cases the less that is done to an object or artwork after an accident is better in the long run. Staying calm and assessing the situation before diving in is always recommended. The first point to note is that the crew should generally do absolutely nothing. Trying to fix something without the requisite skills can make matters worse.

There are a number of companies who can arrange flexible training course in on board collection management – most notably the UK based company ‘Art on Superyachts’. Courses can be developed which are both flexible and modular, which give an overview of the art world, the art market and what is involved in the study of art history. Additional art handling modules teach the management, care and handling of valuable objects on board along with the full scope of collectors’ services. The cost of focused training for yacht crews is a very wise investment for any yacht and art owner to make. Ultimately, awareness and vigilance are the key to protecting any on board art collections.

How to care for and store your handbags so they retain their value

Handbags are in higher demand than ever before, and this once niche market has now become a prominent global industry.

Over the last 10 years the secondary market for luxury handbags has soared and as a result prices and popularity have increased. Like some models of Rolex and Patek Phillippe watches, where demand outweighs supply, consumers are willing to pay a premium on the secondary market. This, as well as retailers increasing their prices and long waiting lists, makes some brands and models excellent investments.

Hermès

The Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags are iconic and even getting a place on the lengthy waiting list is like trying to enter an extremely exclusive club, if not harder. Furthermore, once you have reached the point where you are offered a handbag the choice is often very limited. This makes the secondary market for these bags unbelievably strong as consumers are willing to pay a premium for the choice that is simply not available at retail.

As well as the Birkin and Kelly, another great investment are the custom Hermès bags, also known as Special Order or HSS. These are identified by their Horseshoe Stamp. Directly from Hermès, these bespoke designs are only offered to a select number of collectors, with some waiting years to finally own one. They are typically made in the Birkin, Kelly or Constance style. They get to choose materials, colour, a range of contrasting stitching in bi-colour or tri-colour variations, and special hardware. They are very popular second-hand and make fantastic investment pieces.

Of course, I must mention the Hermès Himalaya bags. Famously the most expensive bag in the world. They are made from niloticus crocodile hide and have a subtle gradation in colour from white to grey, said to resemble the snow-capped Himalayas. Seen in the Birkin and Kelly style, the hardware is white gold and pave set with diamonds. These bags are the epitome of luxury and in 2021, one achieved over £400,000 at auction.

Hermès are known for their vibrant and unique colour combinations. However, they also have an expert eye for neutral colours and offer a wide spectrum of neutral shades. These are very popular when it comes to the secondary market because they are so versatile when worn and they remain timeless.

Chanel

I can’t speak about investment without mentioning Chanel. The Classic Chanel comes in various sizes and colours, all of which remain extremely popular and make a great investment.

Similar to the Classic is the smaller more compact Wallet on Chain or WOC, also a very popular style.

Interesting Limited Editions such as this one fly on the second-hand market.

Louis Vuitton

The iconic Louis Vutton monogram pattern remains as popular as ever.

Over the years they have done some great collaborations, such as in 2017 with artist Jeff Koons. These bags are very popular with collectors.

The classic designs are timeless, such as the Speedy, Elma and Pochette, which are always popular.

Caring For Your Bag

So often I am asked what to invest in and I hope the above helps. However, something else that is extremely important to a bag’s value is its condition and is often not considered as much as it should be by the owner. So, here are my top tips on how to store your beloved handbags so they retain their value.

Storage

Bags should be stored upright in a dust bag and never piled on top of each other. To retain your bags shape it should be stuffed inside with acid free tissue paper when not in use. This will help the structure retain its rigidity. Don’t over stuff a bag, you just want the handbag to keep its shape without stretching the fabric.

Don’t hang your bag by its handle or strap as over time this might lead to it becoming stretched or result in the handle losing its shape. If your bag has a detachable strap, you may want to consider storing it separately.

If your bag has an undetachable chain handle, such as the Chanel Classic and WOC, tuck it inside the bag. This will ensure the exterior isn’t scratched. Be careful not to press the chain against the exterior or interior as it can leave an indent.

Keep your handbag out of direct sunlight as this can bleach the colour.

Most designer bags come with a dust bag for a reason. When your bag isn’t in use, take advantage of the dust bag by using it to store your bag safely. Doing this will minimise oxidation, which is one of the leading causes of natural decay in leather.

Water resistance

Water and leather should never mix. Leather is very permeable and can leave a stain.

If you get water on your bag, dab it off immediately with a dry soft cloth and then leave it to dry naturally.

Another assumption is that, because a bag costs a lot, it must automatically be weather-resistant. This is often not the case.

High-quality and designer handbags often cost their price because they are made from the most delicate materials, meaning that rain and harsh sunlight can affect their lifespan. If the weather is harsh, in terms of either temperature or rainfall, then take extra measures to protect your bag. Hermès bags come with a rain cover to protect them from water marks.

Know what your handbag is made from

Knowing what sort of leather your bag is made from is invaluable when it comes to taking care of it.

One of the most common assumptions is that all designer leather handbags are made from the same material.

Typically, the most common leathers that high-end designers use, range from canvas to lambskin leather, cowhide leather and exotic skins.

Researching the type of leather your bag is made from enables you to understand how it can be maintained and kept pristine.

Smells and Stains

Smells and stains can de-value a handbag.

The smell of smoke on a handbag is almost impossible to get rid of. So, keeping the bag out of smoky environments is important. Also be careful not to spray perfume around the handbag.

Think about what you store in your handbag and how it might stain the interior. Pen and lipstick stains are very difficult to remove so just keep them in a separate bag if you need to carry around liquids or cosmetics.

For bags in storage, giving them a little air every now and then will stop them from developing a musty smell. Plus this is the perfect opportunity to admire them.

Enjoy

My final advice is to enjoy your handbags. I find when I am wearing my favourite handbag it can make me feel empowered and 10 feet tall. So above all make sure you enjoy them, albeit responsibly…

Year of the Rabbit – Rabbits in art

To celebrate the Chinese New Year and the start of the Lunar New Year on the 22nd January we thought we would look at the rabbit, our friendly bunny.

So, what might we expect from this new year?

The rabbit is a symbol of longevity, peace, and prosperity in Chinese culture. 2023 is predicted to be a year of hope. People born in a Year of the Rabbit are believed to be vigilant, witty, quick-minded, and ingenious.

Rabbits have been seen as a symbol of sex and fertility since antiquity. In ancient Rome rabbits were frequently depicted as the animal of Venus. Conversely the rabbit was used by artists of the Middle Ages and Renaissance as a symbol of sexual purity and was often depicted alongside the Madonna and Child.

For those wanting to celebrate the Year of the Rabbit, you can purchase a £5 gold coin from The Royal Mint. If you have something more elaborate in mind, Christian Dior have produced a watch for this auspicious year, which retails at £29,000.

We could, however, simply celebrate the role of the rabbit in art over many centuries. See how the furry creature has inspired artists throughout the years.

Wishing everyone a Happy Year of the Rabbit.

K is for Kyanite

Introduction

K is for – Kyanite, a gemstone which is more frequently being used in modern jewellery and is a favourite of designers such a Pippa Small. But what is this beautiful blue stone and what do you need to know about caring for it?

Colour

Sometimes mistaken for sapphire, kyanite was named in 1789 by Abraham Gottlieb Werner and is derived from the Greek word ‘kyanos’ which is in reference to its typically blue hue though it can also be found in other colours including green, grey and rarely yellow, pink and orange. A strongly pleochroic material, kyanite is a trichroic stone meaning three distinct colours can be seen depending on orientation though our eyes only allow us to distinguish two at a time. The orange variety often has weak pleochroism. Most material has a ‘glass-like’ vitreous or pearly lustre and is transparent to translucent.

Chemistry and Localities

Kyanite is an aluminium silicate mineral (Al2SiO5) and belongs to the triclinic crystal system, most commonly forming in sprays of blade-like crystals but distinct euhedral crystals can also be found and are highly prized by gem crystal collectors as specimens. Kyanite is the high-pressure preferring polymorph of the minerals Andalusite and Sillimanite, which means that the three minerals have the same chemical composition but different crystal systems. The most significant localities are Kenya, Mozambique, Madagascar and the USA.

Use as a Gemstone

Kyanite is difficult to facet and polish due to its perfect cleavage and differential hardness. When cut parallel to the c-axis (direction of growth), it has a hardness of 4 to 4.5 but when cut perpendicular to the c-axis, it has a hardness of 6 to 7.5. Whilst some material may be relatively free from inclusions, most kyanite seen in jewellery will be included or colourzoned. This is especially true of larger stones. A rare phenomenon called chatoyancy or ‘cat’s-eye’ has been reportedly found in some kyanites when cut en cabochon.

Due to its variable hardness and brittle nature, kyanite is not particularly suitable for wearing in rings or bracelets and a protective collet setting is preferable to minimise damage from wear. It is suitable for other jewellery items such as earrings and pendants which are less likely to encounter wear and tear of the stones.

Care should be taken when cleaning kyanite and they should not be placed in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Instead, a soft brush (a baby’s toothbrush is perfect) with some warm soapy water is recommended.

Other Uses

Kyanite is also used in refractory and ceramic products like high-refractory strength porcelain and other porcelains such as dentures and bathroom fixtures. Its resistance to heat also makes it useful in the manufacture of cutting wheels, insulators and abrasives.

Gem Testing

Although it was previously mentioned that kyanite could be visually mistaken for sapphire, gemmological testing easily confirms the identification of these materials. Kyanite has a refractive index of 1.710 to 1.735 whereas sapphire has a refractive index of 1.76 to 1.77. A difference in optical character along with specific gravity testing also distinguishes between the two.

Value

Lower quality, heavily included material can be purchased for a mere few pounds (GBP) per carat but cleaner, higher quality blue stones and rarer coloured kyanites can achieve hundreds of pounds per carat.

A review of the December Old Master Sales in London

December is an exciting month, not just because Christmas is coming, it is also the last hurrah for the Old Master Painting season in London. Sotheby’s had the better pictures and therefore, the better of the results. Their Day Sale (lesser fry) at a total of £3.34M was roughly three times the value of Christie’s at £1.185M. Furthermore, Christie’s had a large total of lots unsold on the day, 40 out of 104 lots.

The Evening Sale (the top lots) followed a similar pattern with Sotheby’s sale to talling £32.72M, with Christie’s coming in at a more modest £13.14M. In fact, Sotheby’s top lot, Titian’s ‘Venus and Adonis’, at £11.1M made almost as much, on its own, as Christie’s whole sale.

They had a beautiful still life by the Haarlem painter Floris van Dijck, very similar in composition to the painting in the Rijksmuseum and one of my favourite pictures in that collection. This made £2.09M against a pre-sale estimate of £600,000-£800,000.

Also estimated at £600,000 – £800,000 was a dramatic seascape by Ivan Konstantinov Aivazovsky titled ‘The Wrath of the Seas’. I was particularly interested to see what happened to this painting, by a 19th Century Russian artist, bearing in mind what is going on in Ukraine. On the day it made a very healthy £1.729M, proving that Aivazovsky has an international reputation and is not just for local consumption!

During the view at Christie’s, I was intrigued to speculate what would happen to two portraits, in particular. The first was a portrait of Erasmus by Hans Holbein the Younger, court painter to Henry VIII and the second was, to my mind, a very beautiful portrait of Henrietta Maria, by Sir Anthony van Dyck, court painter to Charles I.

In the event, they both disappointed with the Holbein making £1.12M against an estimate of £1-1.5M and the Van Dyck limping away at £2.44M against an estimate of £2-4M. The highest price was £2.92M (estimate £2-3M) for ‘Reading Party’ by the French Rococo artist Jean Francois de Troy.

These sales told us nothing new about taste for Old Masters, but they did reinforce what I said in July and that is that there is keen interest in paintings by good hands, fresh to the market and in good state. Selling lesser things, which have been seen before, is a struggle.

Princess Catherine’s jewellery

From Everyday Mum To Future Queen, A Jewel For Every Occasion

It all started with a proposal…

One of the most famous items of jewellery the Princess of Wales has come to possess, is the “Royal Blue” sapphire engagement ring, which belonged to her mother-in-law, the late Princess Diana. It is probably the most famous sapphire, weighing 12 carats and set within a surround of brilliant-cut diamonds.

In 1981, chosen by the then Prince Charles, for Diana, from the official royal jewellers Garrard, the sapphire ring cost £50,000. Because of the provenance and history of the ring, it has become a priceless piece of jewellery, but one could estimate its current price to be around £500,000.

The world’s most expensive sapphire to sell at auction was sold at Sotheby’s Hong Kong on the 7th October 2015. It weighed 27.68 carats of natural Kashmir origin and made $6,702,564, $242,415 per carat.

For her wedding, Queen Elizabeth II lent the Cartier Halo Tiara to the Duchess. It was made in 1936 and comprises of 739 brilliant-cut diamonds and 149 baguette-cut diamonds, and it was purchased by King George VI (then still Duke of York) for his wife, Elizabeth (who we all know better as the Queen Mother), which she wore to a charity ball at Claridge’s in London, their first gala outing since the official ending of the lengthy court mourning period for the late King George V.

To match Catherine’s engagement ring, the Duke of Cambridge gifted a pair of sapphire and diamond cluster earrings from his mother’s personal collection. The Princess simply had them altered to be drops rather than clips.

The Princess is often seen combining her engagement ring with a classic 33mm Cartier Ballon Bleu wristwatch. Mounted in stainless steel, it is decorated with Roman numerals, fluted crown with a synthetic spinel cabochon, silvered guilloché opaline dial, blued-steel sword-shaped hands, sapphire crystal and steel bracelet. It currently retails for £5,400.

When Catherine gave birth to Prince George, Prince William gifted her the Eclipse diamond ring by Annoushka. It is set with 0.23ct total of diamonds and retails at £1,500.

She wears it in combination with her engagement ring.

For the arrival of Princess Charlotte, the then Duke of Cambridge this time choose another designer, Kiki McDonough, and gifted the Duchess a pair of green tourmaline and green amethyst drop earrings.

She was first spotted wearing these during the couple’s tour of India in 2016. Though these were made-to-order for the Princess, you can currently get a pair of similar earrings (below) from the designer for £3,700. These are green amethyst and diamond earrings, mounted in yellow gold.

The Princess owns several pieces by the designer: 18 pairs of earrings and three necklace to date.

Here are some examples:

The Princess has jewellery for every occasion, as can be expected. Her everyday jewels include the above by designer jewellers, but Catherine also favours high street jewellery, such as the below by Accesorize.

These are no longer available but can be found on eBay ranging from £48 to a whopping £96.96 (plus £10.77 for postage!).

It was rumoured that when Prince Louis was born, the Prince gave Catherine a citrine ring, but it was discovered by fans that the Princess had previously worn it in 2008 while celebrating her birthday.

The ring is beautiful and has meaning for the Princess. She was also seen wearing it for the premiere of the last James Bond film, No Time to Die, to match the golden sequinned gown by Jenny Packham.

Perhaps my favourite dress worn by the Princess.

When the Princess is not at a red carpet event or formal gala, the mother of three has been seen to wear a necklace by Spells of Love retailing for £85, suspending three medallions with the initial of each child.

Catherine also wears a Merci Maman necklace gifted to her by her sister, Pippa, after the birth of Prince George in 2014.

For more formal wear, the Princess has been seen wearing brooches, tiaras and exceptional necklaces, such as the four-row pearl chocker, created using a collection of cultured pearls gifted to the Queen by the Japanese government which Catherine wore to Prince Philip’s funeral in April, 2021. In mourning, the Royals don’t wear colour, so pearls are pure, white, and unflashy. This tradition comes from Queen Victoria, who did not want to wear any colour following the death of her husband Prince Albert.

The late Princess Diana also wore it to a state banquet in the Netherlands.

A very sombre then Duchess of Cambridge wore the historical chocker for the Queen’s funeral earlier this year.

The Princess combined the tiara worn by the late Princess Diana (above) with her engagement ring of course but also the Royal Family Order brooch, representing the late Monarch within a diamond surround.

The tiara, called the Lover’s Knot tiara, was lent to Diana as seen below, then went back to the Queen, and upon her passing, is now worn exclusively by Princess Catherine.

Several of Queen Elizabeth’s II jewels will have been passed down to the Queen Consort and several to Catherine.

Recently, the Princess wowed us with this stunning emerald and diamond choker. She stepped out at the Earthshot Prize Awards in Boston in a bright green gown by Solace London, paired with an emerald-and-diamond choker, once owned by Princess Diana. The choker itself was first owned by Queen Mary in 1911, and later presented to Diana as a wedding gift to Prince Charles in 1981.

In this year’s Christmas pictures, the Princess wears a pair of ruby and diamond cluster earrings, made by Soru in Turkey, and retail for £145.

Whatever the occasion, Princess Catherine never disappoints with her exquisite outfits and matching jewellery. And on this special occasion, I wish her a very Happy Birthday.

Watches Review 2022

Well, what a year it has been in the watch world – from the Patek Phillipe Nautilus almost becoming a quarter of a million-pound stainless steel watch…. to thousands of people all around the planet fighting for a £200 Swatch, there couldn’t have been more ups and downs, even if you were writing from Downing Street.

2022 started as 2021 finished, with soaring prices for the most unavailable watches on the market; the Nautilus, Hulk, Royal Oak, Daytona, Aquanaut and many others, all trading at, so far, above their recommended retail price, that it almost became laughable. The secondary market was booming and I, personally was giving valuations on some watches on a monthly basis, due to the fluctuations we were experiencing at the time.

When the market changed, in April/May of 2022 we knew that prices were going to drop – and to be honest, I anticipated a heavier drop than we saw, with some in demand watches still trading at three times their original price in December. Hopefully collectors who bought in the last 2 years are still looking at long term investment pieces.

The Omega Speedmaster has long been regarded as one of the ‘go to’ pieces to have in any major watch arsenal. Its rugged good looks, sensible size, and moon landing history have given it more than half a century of desirability, and last year it was even more desirable than ever – but not in a way that die-hard mechanical watch fans would have anticipated….

The ‘Moonswatch’ was released in 2022, with possibly the biggest marketing push that anyone has seen for a watch, blending the aesthetics of a traditional Omega Moonwatch, and the inexpensive practicality and sense of fun that Swatch have done peerlessly for many decades. The result caused uproar around the planet with near riots in London and Paris, and police being called to many other cities. The most desirable watch on the market for the year was actually a £220 plastic quartz watch, and with nowhere near enough examples, the secondary market went wild with certain examples reaching 10 times their retail value, with people camping out to buy one and then unashamedly selling them the next day on internet auction sites.

Thankfully, this market has calmed a little, with Swatch assuring potential customers that this is not a limited release and eventually there will be enough to go around. But as I write this in January 2023, it is still very difficult to get hold of an example, with some models virtually impossible.

We saw new releases from many of the major house, with Rolex continuing their theme of fancy dials and variations on classic models, such as a left handed version of the GMT Master II. Due to its green and black ceramic bezel, playfully nicknamed ‘Spirte’ or ‘Destro’, caused quite the stir when it was dropped, somewhat trading at over twice its original retail price, from £22,000 to even £30,000, its been one of last years unexpected stars – but if it has Rolex on the dial, it can never be that unexpected.

After the 5711 Nautilus was discontinued the options available to Patek Phillipe were probably immense – how could they change what has become one of the most desirable watches of the current era, if not any era? Well, they were bold! The 5811 is now 1mm bigger than the watch it replaces. I suppose the question is why would you change a winning formula and this proves that.

So, what does 2023 have instore for us?

I believe that whilst all the major brands are going to continue releasing ground-breaking watches with possibly a major offensive of movements, I think that some older watches are going to begin to fall into the modern vintage category and such classics as the much overlooked 16710 GMT Master from 1989-2007, becoming more desirable and prices increasing. There will undoubtedly be some surprises – look out for changes in the Daytona line, as this has been mooted for quite a while now.

Will prices rise or fall?

This is always going to be the question that everyone asks me, and as a valuer, it would be unprofessional to speculate. Whilst 2022 saw prices drop, they were still at the same kind of level they were 12 months ago, so that brings a distinct amount of confidence in watches as a commodity. The demand is still there and will continue to grow as people become more interested – needless to say 12 months is a long time in the watch industry!

Robert Herrick: Poems of Christmas

The poem ‘To Daffadills’ beginning ‘Faire Daffadills, we weep to see/You haste away so soon’ graces many an anthology. It is often mistakenly thought of as by Wordsworth. But the author was Robert Herrick, a 17th-century country vicar who made a speciality of lyric verse in short lines. Although Herrick’s life was a quiet one, yielding few facts, his work displays an appealing hedonism and deep preoccupation with the fleeting nature of time. He penned the famous lines: ‘Gather ye Rose-buds while ye may/Old Time is still a flying’ which open the poem ‘To the Virgins, to make much of Time’.

Hesperides: or The Works both Humane and Divine of Thomas Herrick, printed in London for John Williams and Francis Eglesfield, in 1648, contained the poet’s collected verse. As the ‘humane’ poems occupy 398 pages of the octavo volume, compared to just 79 pages for the divine, one can deduce that sacred subjects were not his favourite. Hesperides remained an under appreciated book for two centuries, though Anthony Wood recorded that the volume made Herrick ‘much admired in the time … especially by the generous and boon loyalists’ (Wood, Athenae Oxonienses, 1721, II, pp. 122-123). It is a rare book today. Sotheby’s sold the Stockhausen copy for $35,000 in 2015, and the Huth copy for £15,000 in the same year.

One subject that seems to bridge the secular and religious divide in Hesperides is Christmas. Herrick’s Christmas poems include two splendid carols, sung before James I at Whitehall and set to music by Henry Lawes, as well as ‘An Ode of the Birth of Our Saviour’. In the latter, the poet is deeply shocked that the ‘pretty Baby’ and ‘Kingly Stranger’ should have his birthplace in a ‘base Out-stable’, preferring him to possess a cradle of ‘interwoven osiers fragrant posies/Of daffodils and roses’. This is the country cradle of rushes deployed in nativity scenes such as Georges de la Tour’s Adoration of the Shepherds. ‘As Gospel tells’ the actual cradle ‘Was nothing else,/But here a homely manger’. But the poet promises to totally transform the conditions spoken of in the Gospel. The baby’s rough clothing will be exchanged for silks sewn with ‘precious jewels’ and ‘lily-work’, the manger will be turned into a chamber of ivory and amber:

But we with silks, not crewels,
With sundry precious jewels,
And lily-work will dress thee;
And as we disposses[s] thee
Of clouts, we’ll make a chamber,
Sweet babe, for Thee, of ivory,
And plaister’d round with amber.

The allusions to silks, jewels and other precious commodities would have been made from a standpoint of knowledge as Herrick was born into a family of goldsmiths in 1591, the seventh child of Julia Stone and Nicholas Herrick. He was named after an uncle, Robert Herrick (or Heyrick), Member of Parliament for Leicester. Tragedy struck when, the year after his birth, his father died in a possible case of suicide (he fell from an upper window of his house in Cheapside two days after making his will). Fortunately, his uncle provided for him.

In 1607 Herrick was apprenticed to another uncle, Sir William Herrick, a goldsmith with close ties to James I. He got through six years of the ten year apprenticeship, then sought a different future in law. At the comparatively advanced age of 22, he matriculated at St. John’s College, Cambridge. Surviving letters to Sir William indicate that his nephew’s finances could barely cope with a year’s carousing at St. John’s, and he moved to Trinity Hall where he spent three more years reading law, graduating in 1617.

For reasons we don’t know Herrick never became a practising lawyer. In the twelve years between his graduation from Cambridge in 1617, and his appointment as vicar of Dean Prior ‘tantalisingly little’ is known for certain about his life (see poetryfoundation.org). It is widely accepted that he spent much of his time in London. Writing in the mid- 19th century, Henry Vizetelly described him as being ‘in familiar intercourse with the chief wits, and writers of the age. Herrick had for his early intimates Ben Jonson, [John] Selden, William Lawes the eminent composer, and Endymion Porter, groom of the chamber to the King, besides many others of equal note’ (Christmas with the Poets, London, David Bogue, 1851).

The teacher/pupil relationship with Ben Jonson (1572-1637) was real enough for Herrick to address five poems to him, including an epitaph. The first verse of ‘His Prayer to Ben. Jonson’ pays due homage to the great classicist, as a playwright ranked second only to Shakespeare:

When I a Verse shall make,
Know I have praid thee,
For old Religions sake,
Saint Ben to aide me.

Endymion Porter (1587-1649) was a diplomat and patron of the arts, fiercely loyal to Charles I, who also wrote verses. Both he and his wife, Olivia, niece to the Duke of Buckingham, were painted by van Dyck. While Herrick himself never married, he was preoccupied with women as a subject, writing about Julia and other ‘mistresses’ in as many as 158 poems. It is possible that none of the women he so admired in verse existed as real people.

It may have been owing to the influence of Endymion Porter that Herrick briefly obtained the position of assistant chaplain to the Duke of Buckingham, playing his part in the catastrophic expedition to free the French Huguenots on the Ile de Ré in 1627. But that was the beginning and end of his military career. He was appointed to the living of Dean Prior in South Devon in 1629, a post he took up in 1630, perhaps with the conscious aim of having more time and opportunity for his poetry.

Dean Prior in the 17th century must be regarded as extremely remote and therefore ideal for a hermit like Herrick. The nearest towns, Exeter and Plymouth, were almost a day’s ride away. London was a five-day trek. Though the vicarage next to the church was by no means ostentatious, the poet-clergyman never agitated for change and lived in Dean Prior for a total of 31 years, the period split into two by the civil war.

Whereas Robert Herrick was a royalist and traditional Anglican, and is often grouped among 17th-century ‘cavalier poets’, the population of the west country was strongly sympathetic to the Puritan cause. The Civil War which began in 1642 made his position precarious; in 1647 he was among 142 Devonshire clergymen expelled from their parishes because of their loyalty to the King. He went to live in Westminster, where he could be supported by his family and friends. His first period as vicar had lasted for 17 years. On his return to Devon at the Restoration of 1660, he served for 14 years more, ending with his death in 1674. While the 14th-century parish church of St. George the Martyr still stands, his gravestone has disappeared, exactly as he predicted it would.

Herrick would certainly have missed old friends on his return to the capital. Ben Jonson had died ten years earlier, William Lawes had been killed at the siege of Chester, Endymion Porter had fled abroad, returning to England only to die in poverty in 1649. ‘Selden alone survived in the enjoyment of a green old age’ (Vizetelly). New literary friendships were forged with Charles Cotton, translator of Montaigne and contributor to The Compleat Angler, and Sir John Denham, the bard of Cooper’s Hill. Herrick also had his octavo volume of poetry, largely written in Devon, to think about for the press. Being close to the printers must have been a stimulus despite the existence of this biblical quatrain preceding the errata:

For these transgressions which thou
here dost see
Condemne the Printer, Reader,
and not me;
Who gave him forth good Grain,
though he mistook
The Seed; so sowed these
Tares throughout my Book.

Herrick revised his work, carefully considered what order to place the poems in, and even went to the trouble of versifying the table of contents. The religious poems have an independent title, His Noble Numbers, and separate pagination; dated 1647, the year of his return from Dean Prior, they may originally have been intended for separate publication

Hesperides contains some 1400 lyrics in all, of which there are sixteen or so Christmas poems. While this is only a fraction of the content, it is hard to think of any other poet who has taken such pains to record the festivities. We are used to thinking of indulgent Christmases as a Victorian invention. Reading Herrick’s accounts of wassailing and other Christmas ‘ceremonials’ will show this to be a misconception. For Christmas traditions in 17th-century Devon are time honoured and have no identifiable beginning.

As opposed to being treated as a single day in modern fashion, Christmas drinking and feasting lasts for a whole season, coming to another climax on Twelfth Night, and even extending up to Candlemas Eve on 1st February. There is little if any mention of young children. It is maidens and young men who are at the centre of Herrick’s Christmas, and happy carousing, happy eating of plum pies and pastries, are the order of the day.

‘Ceremonies for Christmas’ is primarily about the lighting of the Christmas log. The speaker demands that it be brought into the room, accompanied by a suitable uproar of noise from the ‘merry boys’. Thanks to ‘my good dame’, a generous hostess, drinking opportunities are unlimited:

Come, bring with a noise, My merry, merry boys, The Christmas log to the firing; While my good dame, she Bids ye all be free And drink to your heart’s desiring.

The speaker next demands that the new block of wood for the Christmas fire be lit with a piece of the old wood, saved from the previous Christmas: ‘With the last year’s brand/Light the new block’. The middle stanza also refers to the ‘psaltries’ (or guitars) that have to be played as the wood kindles, bringing ‘sweet luck’. Once these ceremonies have been performed, the orders are to:

Drink now the strong beer,
Cut the white loaf here;
The while the meat is a-shredding
For the rare mince-pie,
And the plums stand by
To fill the paste that’s a-kneading.

It’s an abrupt end but typically matter of fact in manner. From this poem alone Herrick’s approval of wassailing or drinking to excess is unquestionable. However, his poem ‘Wassail’, written in 3-line stanzas, is ironically so called, for it takes to task the miserly household that refuses to open its doors for Christmas. Nothing is so grievous as the lack of beer. ‘Alas! We bless, but see none here/That brings us either ale or beer;/ In a dry house all things are near’. Neither are there any happy noises in a house ‘Where chimneys do for ever weep/For want of warmth, and stomachs keep,/With noise, the servants’ eyes from sleep’.

‘Twelfth Night or King and Queen’ describes the ‘cake full of plums’ (the ancestor of our Christmas pudding), and the election of the Twelfth Night king and queen by the successful recovery of a bean and pea hidden inside it: ‘Now, now the mirth comes/With the cake full of plums,/Where bean’s the king of the sport here’. Once the election is decided, the invitation is issued to all to ‘…make/Joy-sops with the cake’, and drink to a cup’s limits:

… let not a man then be seen here,
Who unurged will not drink,
To the base from the brink,
A health to the king and queen here.

The reference to ‘lamb’s wool’ in the penultimate stanza becomes less puzzling once ‘… a bowl full/With gentle lamb’s wool’ is recognised as the Devonshire name for a bowl of spiced beer. Herrick even provides a list of ingredients: ‘sugar, nutmeg and ginger,/With store of ale, too’, all necessary ‘to make the wassail a swinger’. Guests are encouraged to wassail the king and queen, and an assurance is given that the drinking is all good natured:

… though with ale ye be wet here,
Yet part ye from hence
As free from offence
As when ye innocent met here.

Herrick’s poems could be very short indeed. Two of the Christmas lyrics consist of only one 4-line stanza. ‘Another to the Maids’ warns the maids in a household against kindling the Christmas fire with ‘unwash’d hands’, the belief being that this will only put the fire out:

Wash your hands, or else the fire
Will not teend to your desire;
Unwash’d hands, ye maidens, know,
Dead the fire, though ye blow.

A second short poem, called simply ‘Another’, forms a companion-piece to the first, advising the maids to wassail the fruit trees in order to improve their fertility:

Wassail the trees, that they may bear
You many a plum and many a pear:
For more or less fruits they will bring,
As you do give them wassailing.

At fifty lines in length ‘A New Year’s Gift sent to Sir Simon Steward’ was one of the more ambitious Christmas poems. It is a composition that can be dated. Sir Simon (1575-1632) had been a student at Trinity Hall living on there for some years after his graduation. Besides combining the roles of a Justice of the Peace, High Sheriff, and MP, he was an occasional poet. Herrick sent him his long string of rhyming couplets in January, 1624, starting that no kind of bad political news would be the subject his letter. Instead Sir Simon should expect to find:

… here a jolly
Verse, crown’d with ivy and with holly,
That tells the winter’s tales and mirth,
That milkmaids make about the hearth,

In the mid stage of the poem various ‘Christmas sports’ and customs are affectionately named or mentioned, not least the choosing of the Twelfth Night king and queen. Sir Simon and his household are urged to read the poem, and ‘Remember us in cups full crown’d’. But the mood is not all joyful; in the final part Herrick touches on his favourite theme of the brevity of time, and insists that thoughts of future Christmases are preferable to ‘fled Decembers’. Better, it is suggested, to drink on until Father Bacchus ‘twirls the house about your ears’, attaching ‘your cares’ to the past year not the future one:

Then as yet sit about your embers,
Call not to mind those fled Decembers,
But think on those that are t’appear
As daughters to the instant year:
Sit crown’d with rosebuds, and carouse
Till Liber Pater twirls the house
About your ears; and lay upon
The year your cares that’s fled and gone.

However, the last piece of advice is light hearted. It is to enjoy the Christmas plays, and ‘Frolic the full twelve holidays’.

‘Ceremonies for Candlemas Eve’ is another poem about transience and the need to avoid regret. Who hasn’t taken down the Christmas decorations with a sense of relief and a feeling that it’s time to move on? Herrick captures that feeling, beginning his poem with the call to take down the Christmas greenery on Candlemas Eve (i.e. 1st February). He is happy to see a new plant, ‘the greener box … domineer’ instead. However, the box also has its time limit in the house, holding sway only up to ‘dancing Easter day’. His poem begins:

Down with the rosemary and bays,
Down with the mistletoe;
Instead of holly, now up-raise
The greener box (for show).
The holly hitherto did sway:
Let box now domineer
Until the dancing Easter day,
Or Easter’s eve appear.

As the year progresses, there is a recognisable succession of plants traditionally used for adornment. The ‘youthful box’ renews houses but when ‘Grown old, surrender must his place/Unto the crisped yew’. The yew is followed by the birch ‘And many flowers beside’ which do honour to Whitsuntide. In the final stanza, ‘green rushes’, ‘bents’ (so called because they are flowers which bend or droop?) and ‘cooler oaken boughs’ are considered ‘comely ornaments/To re-adorn the house’. But the poem does not end there.

Herrick adds an extra couplet to remind us that, as greenery goes in and out of favour in the house, so the shifts of time effect change in all things:

Green rushes, then, and sweetest bents,
With cooler oaken boughs
Come in with comely ornaments
To re-adorn the house.
Thus times do shift; each thing
his turn does hold;
New things succeed,
as former things grow old.

Through these varied poems Robert Herrick gives us a remarkably strong picture of what a 17th-century Christmas in Devon was like, something to think about as we are enjoying our Christmas in the early 21st century. Anyone interested in reading more of his work should consult the website luminarium.org where his poems are available online.