Coral…. Did you know?

There are six types of precious coral from deepest red to porcelain white and none are endangered.

Did you know that Mediterranean Rubrum coral is still dived for by hand by around 50 licenced divers at a depth of 50 metres? Japanese and Taiwanese coral is even deeper; at a depth of 80 metres to 300 metres and can only be harvested by a submersible with strict quotas.

Oxblood Rubrum coral

It is reef and shallow water coral, such as golden and black coral, that are endangered. These are known as common coral and reside on the global CITES protection list.

A suite of handmade Mediterranean coral jewellery, including a tiara and stomacher for a 19th century European royal family meber. Now in the Liverino coral museum in Naples.

Did you know that coral was used in Rome as early as 1500 BC? It has been used as amulets in the Catholic faith for centuries and revered in Buddhism. To this day it is an expression of status and wealth in Benin in Africa, Poland and Ukraine and it has been used as currency across the world.

Pierre Louis Jospeh de Coninck

In the Mediterranean, coral harvesting has been documented since the 15th century and its secrets and systems were passed down through each generation of a family. This industry was particularly buoyant at Torre Del Greco, a beautiful fishing village on the slopes of Vesuvius. Which for decades in the 1800’s saw almost every local family involved in the coral trade in some form from diving to forming the beads to selling the strings of coral. This development and success of the coral industry at Torre del Greco was arguably thanks to Ferdinand IV of Bourbon, who worked to regulate the fishing of coral from this area of Naples and protect local jobs. He recognised the huge demand for beautiful coral jewellery and religious accessories, the ownership of which was seen as a status symbol across Spain, Italy, Poland and Ukraine, which lasts to this day. Look through several Old Master paintings and you may well find coral pieces to denote protection and wealth.

Even good things come to an end and the Mediterranean monopoly on coral supply was to change in the 1870’s when a different species of coral, ‘Momo’ coral was discovered in Japan and later in Taiwan and Hawaii. These finds would open up coral appreciation to the world and the largest market for coral is now the Far Eastern market.

Rossetti

Collectors are starting to wake up to the beauty of coral that Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpels have been giving to their high net worth clients for over a century.

Precious coral, particularly antique and vintage pieces, are becoming very sought after and gaining good prices at European auctions. Keep an eye out for depth of colour and condition, and a smattering of diamonds is always nice too.

Vintage Coral

Did you know that the size of coral necklaces depend on the type and size of coral branch? Mediterranean coral can grow up to eight millimetres in diameter, however Midway coral from Hawaii up to 20 millimetres. Each piece of harvested coral from deep in the ocean is cleaned, divided and polished by hand into perfect beads, then matched into earrings and necklaces. It can take over a year to make a larger sized necklace.

A new harvest of Rubrum coral from the Mediterranean at the Livorino workshops

There is a huge market in China and the Far East for the top quality Oxblood and Momo coral pieces. So much of the finest coral will make it’s way there and prices rival that of fine jade.

However, you may well have vintage pieces in your jewellery box and I strongly suggest you review their value. It may just surprise you.

The Evolution and History of Diamond Cutting

Believed to be a gift from God, diamonds were first discovered in India in the 4th Century BC and were recognised for their hardness and strength. They were worn as adornments to ward off evil and provide protection in battle. Diamonds were also used as a medical aid; thought to cure illness and heal wounds when ingested. This was later dismissed, and it was thought that diamonds were highly poisonous; a rumour introduced to stop miners stealing diamonds by swallowing them.

Up until the 18th Century the only known source for diamonds was in India and their value was still considered much less than sapphires and rubies.

Alexander the Great opened a small trade between the East and the West in the mid-4th Century but it wasn’t until much later in the 14th and 15th century when diamonds entered Europe through Venice. They made their way north to Bruges, Antwerp and Amsterdam making these cities bustling diamond centres. It was at this point that European and Indian cutters begin to experiment with diamond cutting.

Point Cut Diamond

The earliest diamond cut is the point cut and was popular in the 15th Century. Cutters used diamond grit and olive oil to simply polish stones in their natural octahedral form. Olive oil was used due to its ability to tolerate the high temperatures caused by polishing.

Below is a diamond crystal in its natural octahedral form and a diamond ring set with multiple polished point cut diamonds.

Point cut diamonds are very rare as many of the original diamonds were re-fashioned as cutting techniques and styles changed. Here is an example of point cut diamond selling at auction for £11,000, well exceeding its pre-sale estimate of £1,800 – £2,400.

The Table Cut

In the mid-15th Century cutters designed the table cut diamond, they used the same polishing methods and simply removed the top point of the octahedral shape to produce a table.

This style of cutting possessed far better optical qualities than its predecessor, with greater brilliance and fire. It also displayed, when viewed from above, the impression of a table within a table, which fitted perfectly with Renaissance Europe’s love of classical proportions. The table cut became far more desirable than the point cut, which is why it is now rare to see examples of the point cut diamond as most were re-fashioned into the table cut.

Throughout the 16th and 17th century, variations of the table cut shape such as rectangles, triangles and tapered diamonds appeared.

Here are some more examples of diamonds with a table cut selling through auction.

The Rose Cut

The early 16th century saw the birth of the rose cut diamond. This made use of the flat rough instead of the octahedral crystal that we have seen so far. It proved the most efficient way to retain the weight of a flat crystal. The flat bottom and faceted domed top proved much more effective at displaying brilliance but not fire.

The Mazarin Cut

After developing and perfecting table and rose cuts, European cutters started to experiment with new cuts and styles. Cardinal Jules Mazarin requested that cutters in Europe designed a faceted diamond. The result was a cushion shaped diamond with 34 facets called the Mazarin cut, also known as the double cut.

The Old Single Cut

The mid-17th century saw the introduction of the single cuts. Like the point and table cut, the single cut resembled the shape of the octahedral rough. It also displayed more potential for brilliance than the table cut because it had more facets. This cut served as the basis for the modern brilliant cut and even today, the single cut is still used on smaller diamonds.

In the early 17th Century, the mines in India were running low on diamond source and European cutters needed more stones to continue experimenting with cuts. Luckily at this time, while miners were panning for gold in Minas Gerais, Brazil, a few odd crystals, and pebbles were found. Not knowing what they had discovered the miners used these stones to keep score during games of cards. It wasn’t until an official saw them that they realised that in fact it was a new diamond source.

The discovery of alluvial deposits in Brazil meant great things for the cutters in Europe. The diamonds rivalled those of India, and Brazil became the main source of diamonds for Europe.

At this time, Europe had a great desire to experiment and evolve the diamond cut, and there was an increasing interest in optical science. With the aid of advanced lighting and the modernisation of technologies, the developments of the first modern brilliant cuts could start to take place.

The Peruzzi Cut

The new rough from Brazil was used to create the first old mine cut also known as the Peruzzi Cut; this has the same number of facets as the round brilliant, but with a high pavilion it resembles a cushion shape. In 1750, a London jeweller called the new style of cut a passing fad and said the classic rose cut would outlast them all.

Today, antique cushion cut diamonds remain extremely popular and sell very well. Here are some examples – notice how almost all exceed their pre-sale estimates.

The round brilliant cut diamond

Years of experimentation with cutting led to the production of the modern brilliant. We can see examples of the modern brilliant cut being traced to the 1800’s. Henry Morse had been trying to achieve the optically efficient cutting design. It was however Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919 who published his PhD thesis called Diamond Design. This used mathematical calculations that considered how to display both brilliance and fire in a diamond. Tolkowsky understood that if a diamond was cut too shallow or too deep that the light entering the stone would leak out of the side; this discovery was achieved by systematically analysing the optics of a diamond. Although this was revolutionary for its time, there have been other claims on the perfectly proportioned diamond. In 1940, Eppler produced the European Cut and later in 1970 The IDC (International Diamond Council) also produced a set of ideal ranges.

Compared Results

These differing proportions are all aiming to show the viewer the perfect amount of brilliance and fire. Brilliance is the reflection of light from the back facets when viewed from the top of the stone. Fire is the splitting of white light into the spectral colours as the light passes through inclined facets.

Altering the angle of the crown will affect the balance of brilliance and fire.

Fancy Cuts

In more recent times we have seen variations of the round modern brilliant cut diamond. Cutters have applied the same perfected proportions displaying great amounts of fire and brilliance and applied them to the Pear and Marquise cuts. The Pear and Marquise cuts have been around for centuries but never before displayed the optimum optical properties. Furthermore, this led to the production of more fancy shapes in the brilliant cut; heart cut and princess cuts are now examples of this. Triangular diamonds cut in this way were even named the Trillion cut.

With many attributing factors that have been considered in the cutting of diamond throughout its evolution; from a polished octahedral crystal through to the brilliant cut diamond displaying fire and brilliance, I wonder what the next seven centuries will bring. Will our future generations look back and consider the brilliant cut diamond a primitive design compared to what this stone, advanced technologies and creative cutters achieve in the future?

 

Andy Warhol’s Birthday

Andy Warhol, born Andrew Warhola, was born on August 6, 1928, in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, to Slovakian immigrant parents. Andy was the fourth of five children, his father worked as a construction worker, and his mother was a homemaker and they lived in a working-class neighbourhood in Pittsburgh.

Andy was ‘dogged’ by illness, at the age of eight, he contracted a rare and severe illness called Sydenham’s chorea. This left him bedridden for several months, during which time his mother helped fill his days by giving him drawing lessons, which ignited his passion for art. Andy attended Schenley High School in Pittsburgh, where he demonstrated early artistic talent and where he was recognised and encouraged in these abilities. After graduating in 1945, he went on to study at the Carnegie Institute of Technology (now Carnegie Mellon University) in Pittsburgh.

After completing his studies in 1949, Andy moved to New York City, where he began his career as a commercial artist and illustrator. He worked for magazines, advertising agencies, and retail stores, quickly gaining recognition for his unique and imaginative art style.

By the late 1950s, he had started experimenting with Fine Art and had begun producing paintings, drawings, and prints. He found his inspiration in everyday objects and popular culture, leading him to create many of the works that would become iconic representations of the Pop Art movement and synonymous with Andy Warhol.

In the 1960s, he established his now famous studio space called “The Factory.” It was a hub for creative collaborations, attracting artists, musicians, writers, and celebrities, alike and it rapidly became a centre for the avant-garde in New York City.

Warhol’s fascination with celebrity culture led him to create portraits of many famous personalities, including Marilyn Monroe, Elvis Presley, and Elizabeth Taylor.

Andy Warhol’s creativity extended way beyond painting and drawing and he ventured into film, creating the experimental movies “Chelsea Girls” (1966) and “Empire” (1964), a slow-motion film of the Empire State Building.

Andy Warhol, well known for his contributions to the Pop Art movement and his choice of subjects for his art, was heavily influenced not only by celebrity and popular culture but also brand names, crime and for some reason car crashes. Some of his most famous paintings include the following:

The market for Warhol’s work has existed from day one and interest from buyers is truly international, with his work being sold across the world, where it is both a highlight and a mainstay of all the major and minor auction houses and galleries across the world. His major works continue to change hands for multi-million pound sums and the second and third most expensive Warhol works sold at auction to date are as follows:

Andy Warhol's art and history

Behind the scenes Andy Warhol is just as fascinating, here are a few little known facts about him.

Time Capsules:
Warhol was an avid collector and archivist. He had a fascination with preserving everyday items and created what he called “Time Capsules.” These Time Capsules were essentially cardboard boxes in which he stored various objects such as newspapers, correspondence, photographs, art supplies, and random items from his daily life. Over the years, he filled over 600 of these Time Capsules, which provide a unique insight into his life and the culture of the time.

Religious Devotion:
Despite his flamboyant and controversial public persona, Warhol was a devout Byzantine Catholic. He attended church regularly, and his religious beliefs played a significant role in his life. He even commissioned religious-themed artworks, including several portraits of Jesus Christ.

Art Collector:
Warhol was an enthusiastic art collector and he had his own extensive collection of art, including works by fellow contemporary artists and art pieces from various periods and styles. Following his death, Sotheby’s auction house held a nine-day auction in 1988 where they sold off more than 10,000 items from Warhol’s personal collection, which fetched tens of millions of dollars.

Underground Filmmaker:
As mentioned earlier in this piece Warhol is well-known for his contributions to the visual arts and he was also a pioneer in underground filmmaking. In the 1960s, he produced a series of experimental films that challenged traditional cinematic conventions. One of his most famous films is “Sleep” (1963), which depicts his friend John Giorno sleeping for over five hours. Warhol’s films often explored themes of monotony, voyeurism, and the passage of time.

Wig-Wearing Icon:
Andy Warhol’s signature silver-white wig became an essential part of his public image. He began wearing wigs in the 1960s to create a distinctive look, and it quickly became one of his trademarks. The wig allowed him to transform his appearance and present himself as an enigmatic figure in the art world and popular culture

Cookbook Author:
In 1959, Warhol and his friend Suzie Frankfurt co-authored a quirky and amusing cookbook titled “Wild Raspberries.” The book, which was never intended to be a practical guide to cooking, featured illustrations and handwritten recipes for dishes like “Omelet Greta Garbo” and “Piglet a la Cubist.” This limited edition book is now a highly sought-after collector’s item.

These lesser known facts highlight the diverse and eccentric aspects of Andy Warhol’s life and artistic pursuits. His impact on various forms of art and culture continues to be influential and celebrated to this day.

Throughout his life, Andy Warhol continued to push the boundaries of art, leaving a lasting impact on the art world and popular culture. His early experiences and upbringing shaped his artistic style and many of the themes he explored in his work.

 

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Posters, Film Ephemera and Comics

For those of you that have read my previous article on collectible comics you may ask the question, Why combine an article on posters, film ephemera and include comics as well?

Well, the simple answer is that comics now are just as much a part of film ephemera as posters, as one can see when Marvel release a new film from their vast range of available titles, the value of the comic that it is based on soars through the roof!

Look at titles such as Captain America – in April of 2022 the first of the series in a CGC graded 9.4 condition sold for $3.1 million, which even five years ago would have been unthinkable.

What is key to a comic book though, as well as a good title is of course the condition. If there are any marks, stains, tiny rips or even folds, it can wipe tens of thousands of dollars from the books value. Even since my last article on comic books, this has become even more paramount to achieving the ultra-high prices we have seen in the past few years. The way that collectors are now amassing their collections is that it has to be the very best, and if something better comes along – then they need to own it. This has fuelled the market in the last few years with some comics coming out of the woodwork, along with some well known examples.

The film poster market is something that anyone can get excited about – if you have a favourite film, it is very likely that they promoted it with a campaign of posters and as such, it is just as likely that you can source one in 2023. There are a few guidelines for poster that generally include only buying originals and for films that have attained either classic or cult status. So when looking to purchase be sure of authenticity and origin – for example posters in different languages can prove to be worth a lot less money than the native tongue, as seen in items from James Bond films. But in rarer forms, it can be worth even more, seen in the illustrated example of Casablanca from 1942. The film poster market is a tightrope so advice should always be sought out.

Film ephemera has again rocketed, with specific auction houses now specialising on huge sales from major Hollywood studios and collectors. That means you can buy anything from Harrison Ford’s infamous fedora hat (if you have the $300,000 that it recently achieved) to a helmet from a Stormtrooper, from the iconic Star Wars film series.

What has recently come to my attention after looking at quite a few collections over the last few years is actually…Pokemon cards.

This global phenomenon started back in 1996, when Pokemon was released as a trading card game, Pokemon – actually an abbreviated phrase meaning “Pocket monsters”. It quickly became a massive success with over 50 billion cards in circulation, which is a monumental figure. In recent years due to major celebrity endorsement, these items have sold on the secondary market for figures that could never have ever been imagined, as some of the rarest cards trading for over $1,000,000. With mythical collections being kept quiet and never discussed, it’s certainly going to be one of the hobbies and collectible items that stays with us for a long time.

So, should you wish to either buy up some old memories, or maybe invest in some new ones, the market for comic books, film ephemera and even Pokemon cards are clearly satisfying on many levels within the industry!

Rubies

Ruby is the birthstone for July

The name comes from the Latin ‘ruber’ meaning red. It is seen as a symbol of love and commitment. In Asia particularly, it is associated with luck, passion and power.

Burmese warriors had rubies set into their armour, as they believed they would offer them protection in battle. Some even had rubies embedded in their flesh for added security.

Rubies, like sapphires, are a form of corundum – the name for aluminium oxide. Unlike sapphires, which come in an array of colours, rubies are always red, and the colour derives from chromium in their chemical make-up. Shades vary from the ultra desirable, but challengingly named, pigeon’s blood ruby to much pinker varieties.

Historically, the most sought after rubies came from Burma (now Myanmar). However, nowadays Mozambique has become one of the largest suppliers of new rubies into the market.

After diamonds, rubies are the hardest of all gemstones and also the most expensive coloured gemstone.

Until recently, ‘The Sunrise Ruby’, which formed the centrepiece of a sensational ruby and diamond ring by Cartier, was the most expensive ruby in the world and the most expensive coloured stone. However, on 8th June 2023 Sotheby’s sold the world’s largest Mozambiquan ruby, which weighs 55.22 carats. It made a world record-breaking $34.8 million, thus becoming the largest and most valuable ruby ever to sell at auction.

The ruby and diamond necklace worn by Julia Roberts in the film Pretty Woman, was said to be worth about $750,000 shortly after the movie was made 30 years ago. The price of rubies has soared since then. Imagine what it might be worth today.

Old Master Sales, July, London

The Old Master Sales in London last week proved once again that freshness to the market and condition are key to paintings achieving spectacular prices. The perfect example of this was the beautiful Artist’s Studio with a Seamstress by the enigmatic Flemish painter Michael Sweerts (1618-1664), which came up at Christie’s.

This was painted in Rome sometime between 1646-1652 and was unknown to scholars having spent most of its life in a Belgian castle. It had never been cleaned or lined in its almost 400 year history and sold for an astonishing £12.6M (including premium), 6 times the previous world record for the artist! Christie’s also had a pair of recently re-discovered portraits by Rembrandt (1606-1669) which hadn’t been seen since 1824. Despite being on tiny oak panels measuring just 8 ½ x 6 ½ ins they made a well-deserved £11.2M (including premium).

One of the stars of Sotheby’s evening sale was the panel of the Pentecost by the unidentified 15th Century Bruges Painter, known as The Master of the Baroncelli Portraits. Despite appearing as recently as 2010 at Christie’s, where it sold for £4.19M, its beautiful execution and almost pristine condition helped it soar to £7.9M.

Sotheby’s also had a distinguished re-discovery in the form of a Saint Sebastian by Sir Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640). This canvas was probably painted in Rome around 1608 for the Spinola family of Genoa, but had spent most of the last 100 years in St Louis, Missouri, USA undetected. It had appeared at an auction there in 2008, catalogued as attributed to Laurent de la Hire (sic). With its new attribution, it sold for £4.9M.

The week of sales totalled well over £100M, the best result for 6 years with Christie’s evening sale generating £53.9M, while Sotheby’s came in at £39M. The day sales, of lesser fry, were much quieter with slightly higher BI rates. Sotheby’s sale totalled £911,000, Bonhams £1.35M and Christie’s just over £2M. On average, 70% of the lots offered found buyers on the day and more will have sold subsequently suggesting that although Old Masters are not as fashionable as contemporary paintings, there is still a market for them.

What to wear for Wimbledon

For Ascot it’s all about hats, at Henley it’s blazers, but what to wear for Wimbledon…?

Let’s start with jewellery and what more fitting piece than a tennis bracelet. One of the most sought after easily worn pieces in any capsule jewellery collection and beyond, this now ubiquitous item came to prominence in 1987 when, during a match in the U.S. Open, Chris Evert ‘lost’ her diamond bracelet when the clasp broke. Play was suspended so that it could be retrieved, which it was.

She later said “When I competed, I wanted to wear something that gave me confidence and empowered me, both as a woman and an athlete. My tennis bracelet added a personal element to my style on the court and served as a daily reminder that I can do and be anything.” Who wouldn’t want some of that?

This style of line bracelet has been popular since the Art Deco period, but it was Chris Evert that brought it to such wide prominence and caused the change of name.

Tiffany Victoria diamond tennis bracelet which retails for £19,700

You’ll also be needing a stylish watch and there is a plethora of choices endorsed by tennis stars. Roger Federer became a brand ambassador for Rolex in 2006 with what was, at the time the largest single endorsement for any professional athlete. He was contracted to Rolex for 10 years for which he received $15,000,000. Others now in the Rolex stable are Dominic Thiem for the Daytona; Garbiñe Muguruza with the DateJust and Jo-Wilfred Tsonga with the Milgauss. If you want to dress the part but favour other brands, Nadal wears a Richard Mille and Serena Williams an Audemars Piguet diamond outrage.

Perhaps you will fancy something unique and eye catching to adorn your outfit, you might look at vintage novelty tennis related items. These two tennis racket brooches were sold at auction and the ruby and diamond brooch is Edwardian and set with ruby, pearls and rose diamonds.

Last year Ralph Lauren unveiled new uniforms for the court officials. The instantly recognisable polo shirt is now produced in wide navy blue and white stripes and they stated that they were combining the heritage of the brand with sustainable modern fabrics and modern silhouettes.

As for the outfit itself no-one does Wimbledon better than The Princess of Wales. As Patron of the All England Club and a keen tennis player herself, she often attends the championships and well as presenting the trophies.

In 2022 she chose polka dots by Alessandra Rich and a bright yellow dress by Roskanda. If you wish to emulate her style, similar dresses are available by these designers at about £1,400 each.

Whatever your style choice and however you enjoy watching Wimbledon, we hope you enjoy the championships and regardless of your outfit, the event is definitely best served up with Pimm’s; and strawberries and cream.

David Hockney soon to be 86 on July 9th

David Hockney is one of my all time favourite British artists and throughout his career he has created many truly iconic paintings. While it’s subjective to determine the “most famous” ones, here are some of his most notable works:

These are just a few examples of David Hockney’s most famous paintings, but his extensive body of work covers a wide range of materials, dates, subjects and styles, showcasing his endless versatility as an artist.

David Hockney is a renowned British artist known for his contributions to the Pop Art movement and his vibrant, colourful paintings, drawings, and prints. Hockney was born on July 9, 1937, the fourth of five children in Bradford, W est Yorkshire. He demonstrated a keen interest in art from an early age.

Hockney’s parents were Kenneth and Laura Hockney. His father, Kenneth, was a conscientious objector during World War II and worked as a conscientious objectors’ medic. Hockney’s parents were supportive of his artistic endeavours, even though they did not initially understand his decision to pursue art as a career. Throughout his life, Hockney maintained a close relationship with his family, particularly with his mother, who played a significant role in his life and artistic journey.

He attended Bradford Grammar School and then Bradford College of Art from 1953 to 1957, where he gained a solid foundation in traditional artistic techniques and disciplines. His fellow students included Derek Boshier, Pauline Boty, Norman Stevens, David Oxtoby and John Loker. Later, he pursued higher education at the Royal College of Art in London from 1959 to 1962, where he met R B Kitaj and also featured alongside Peter Blake in an exhibition there called ‘New Contemporaries’ which heralded the arrival of British Pop Art, a period when his artistic style began to take shape and evolve.

In the 1960s, Hockney rose to prominence as a key figure in the Pop Art movement, which challenged the traditions of art by incorporating popular culture and everyday objects into artworks. Alongside artists like Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein, Hockney explored themes such as consumerism, mass media, and the impact of technology on society.

Here are a few examples of some of Hockney’s most expensive paintings at auction.

Here are some lesser-known facts about David Hockney: Hockney has a love of new Technology, especially that which will help him to make art, and he has embraced it in his artistic practice. He was an early adopter of the iPhone and iPad, and he has created numerous artworks using these devices. He even published a book of iPhone and iPad drawings titled “David Hockney: A Bigger Book.”

Hockney is secretly an author: In addition to his artistic endeavours, he has also authored several books. One notable example is “Secret Knowledge: Rediscovering the Lost Techniques of the Old Masters,” in which he explores the possibility that some of the Old Masters employed optical devices such as the camera obscura to aid in their artwork.

Stage design: Hockney’s creative talents extend beyond the realm of visual arts. He has designed sets for numerous operas, including productions at the Glyndebourne Festival Opera, the Metropolitan Opera, and the Los Angeles Opera. His stage designs are known for their vibrant colours and innovative use of space.

Dual nationality: Hockney holds both British and American citizenship. He moved to California in the 1960s and became inspired by the vibrant landscapes and lifestyle of Southern California, which greatly influenced his artwork during that period.

Knighthood: In 1990, David Hockney was awarded the Order of the British Empire (OBE) for his contributions to the arts. Later in 2012, he was further honoured with a knighthood, becoming Sir David Hockney.

Love for nature: Hockney is drawn to the beauty of nature and has spent considerable time painting landscapes, particularly in his native Yorkshire. He finds inspiration in the changing seasons and has captured the essence of nature’s colours and textures in his artwork.

David Hockney has had several close friends and acquaintances throughout his life, including notable figures from the art world, literature, and entertainment industry. Some of his close friends include, Peter Schlesinger, an artist and photographer, was one of Hockney’s closest friends and a frequent subject of his paintings. They were in a relationship during the late 1960s and early 1970s.

Celia Birtwell, a renowned textile designer and fashion icon, became friends with Hockney in the 1960s, and he often used her as a muse in his paintings. Birtwell’s vibrant and patterned fabrics also influenced Hockney’s artistic style. Ossie Clark was a British fashion designer and a close friend of Hockney. Clark’s designs were known for their bohemian style, and Hockney often collaborated with him, creating artwork inspired by Clark’s fashion. Jonathan Silver was a major patron and collector of Hockney’s work. He was a close friend of the artist and played a significant role in supporting and promoting his career at his gallery space at Salt’s Mill in Bradford.

At 86 David Hockney is a shining example of how making art and being constantly busy and creative can stop the years creeping up on you, long may he continue!

The Princess of Wales jewellery trooping the colour

What a year it has been for the Royal family and ceremonial events and on the 17th June, they did it again, for the King’s birthday, also known as Trooping the Colour. The Princess of Wales was as regal as ever, and her outfit full of meaning – as they usually are.

When I first glanced at her stylish green outfit, my first thought was how reminiscent of the late Queen it was.

But when looking closer at the jewellery, the true meaning of the green came to light. Earlier in the year The Princess of Wales took over the role from her husband as the 11th Colonel of the Irish Guards. Her outfit designed by the fashion designer Andrew GN is called “emerald green triple crème coat dress with satin trim” and retails for £2,839 and is a deliberate choice of colour on this very special occasion.

It is completed by handcrafted jewelled buttons which appear to be a mix of turquoise, chalcedony or chrysoprase, and echoes the British flag design.

The jewelled button was also carefully placed on the back of the wide trimmed hat, by Philip Treacy.

The coat dress was paired with her signature shamrock brooch which she has been seen wearing on St Patrick’s day.

The brooch of textured design, features a single emerald to the centre. It was crafted by Cartier and then presented to Princess Mary, the Princess Royal, by the regiment in 1961. Though others state that the piece may have belonged to Queen Alexandra first. When Princess Mary died, the brooch was sold at auction and bought by the regiment and it was worn by the Queen Mother until her death in 2002, followed by Princess Anne between 2002 and 2011, and is on these occasions, loaned by the regiment.

In 2014, a similar four-leaf clover brooch came up for auction, the brooch made in 1957 by Cartier sold for £2,000 (including buyer’s premium). Today, I would place an insurance replacement value of £10,000 on this brooch.

To complete the look, the Princess of Wales wore Princess Diana’s sapphire and diamond cluster earrings.

The earrings feature two cabochon sapphires within a diamond surround, each cluster connected by a single diamond. The earrings are said to be part of a suite gifted to Princess Diana for her wedding by the Crown Prince of Saudi Arabia. The suite comprises of Burmese sapphire and diamond pendant with matching earrings, a ring, bracelet, and a watch.

The author of The Queen’s Jewels, Leslie Field described the Saudi set as, “Made by Asprey, it consists of an enormous Burmese sapphire pendant set in a jagged sunray fringe of baguette diamonds and hung on a thin diamond necklace; a matching pair of earrings and ring; a two-row bracelet of brilliant-cut diamonds with a smaller version of the sapphire pendant as a centrepiece; and a wristwatch, the face set in the same diamond sunray fringe and the strap consisting of seven oval sapphires set in clusters of diamonds.”

In 2007, Sotheby’s sold a similar sapphire and diamond cluster ring, comprised of a 3.52cts Burmese sapphire within a diamond surround, totalling 5.50cts. It sold for USD 12,000 (including buyer’s premium). Today, I would place an insurance replacement value of at least £50,000 for this piece.

For every event, The Princess of Wales carefully curates and matches her outfits including jewellery with the attention to detail simply impeccable.

Look at for her next time and spot the details within her dress and jewellery.

As jewellery replacement values continue to increase, please can we remind you to update your insurance valuations and if you have never had a valuation please call us to discuss.

Art Basel

Last week’s Art Basel 2023 contemporary art fair, June 15 – June 18, defied forecasts of a market slowdown, with wealthy collectors buying works with seven or eight-figure price tags.

Described by its new chief executive Noah Horowitz as ‘the single most important annual event in the global art market’ and the ‘barometer of the industry’, Art Basel opened its doors to VIPs last Tuesday – the first two and a half days of the fair are traditionally reserved for wealthy collectors, before the doors open to the public from Thursday to Sunday.

Some 284 galleries representing more than 4,000 artists are represented at the fair in the Swiss city, which for one week every year becomes the centre of the global contemporary art market. Among them are regulars of the art event such as Gagosian, Hauser & Wirth, Pace, David Zwirner and Perrotin. Some 20 galleries from Europe, Africa, Asia and America will have a stand for the first time.

Three of the first-time labels are entering directly into the main Galleries sector, namely Blank projects (Cape Town), Empty Gallery (Hong Kong) and Offer Waterman (London). The Feature sector will host eight first-time exhibitors, including David Castillo (Miami), Thomas Erben Gallery (New York) and Gajah Gallery (Jakarta, Yogyakarta, Singapore), compared to 10 for the Statements sector.

Art Basel director Noah Horowitz hopes this year’s event helps maintain Art Basel’s status as the world’s leading contemporary art fair.

‘I am incredibly excited to welcome the international art community to Basel in June for another premier edition of our show and my first as the organization’s CEO,’ he said in a statement. ’Ranging from bold contemporary positions to rare presentations by 20th-century icons, our Basel fair will once again reaffirm its pre-eminent position as a platform for discovery and encounters that drive the art world.’

Alongside the contemporary art fair itself, visitors to Art Basel were able to discover some 20 special installations around Münsterplatz and downtown Basel.

One of these was a ‘sprawling superstructure’ designed by French-Moroccan artist Latifa Echakhch, a former Marcel-Duchamp Prize winner and Switzerland’s representative at the Venice Biennale in 2022. In addition, the city’s museums and cultural centres offered a wide range of exhibitions and events throughout the week.

While stock markets jitters and soaring interest rates had triggered predictions that the art market was cooling, that was not evident at the fair, where it was reported by Marc Glimcher, CEO of Pace NY ‘the art market seems quite healthy here in Basel. People are not paying crazy high prices, but they are not asking us to sell at crazy low prices either.’

At its VIP Day last Tuesday, Zurich’s Hauser & Wirth confirmed that they had sold a major 1996 spider sculpture by Louise Bourgeois to a US collector for US$22.5m (the most expensive sale of the day), and also an oil on canvas by US painter Philippe Guston for US$9.5m.

Similarly, New York’s Pace Gallery sold two fox sculptures from a new series by US artist Jeff Koons, even though one of the works had yet to be finished. They went for US$3m each. They also sold a Alexander Calder mobile for $2.8m and two smaller works by the artist, offered by his family, for $775,000 and $675,000. David Zwirner exhibited and sold Gerhard Richter’s oversized 2023 sculpture STRIP TOWER for $2.5m. Blue-chip work on the primary market that sold on VIP Day included a new painting by Jonas Wood, offered by David Kordansky Gallery for $2.5m.

Other highlights to be seen at the fair included a gorgeous sunset collured Rothko painting offered at $60m by Acquavalla Galleries; an impressive Picasso for $25m at Landau and a $14m Joan Mitchell triptych at Pace.

After a healthy rebound in 2021, the art market grew three percent in 2022 to US$67.8b, according to Art Basel’s annual art report published by Clare McAndrew.

McAndrew writes that while the first half of 2022 was marked by strong sales, and a number of record prices, the market was more subdued in the latter half due to political and economic instability, the war in Ukraine, increasing inflation rates, supply issues and looming recessions in key markets.

Whilst the Art Market is almost certainly cooling, this is a necessary correction that happens in the market every now and again. The market is still buoyant, with good things selling, but buyers are simply not paying over inflated prices. As art dealer David Nolan reported, ‘tricky times are often prime opportunities to buy art, with galleries more amenable to discounts and collectors looking to free up capital. There is such diversity in the types of people who come to Basel, many of whom budget specifically to buy at Art Basel, and who are less affected by the stock market and the interest rate fluctuations.’