Unapologeticaly Iris – The Iris Apfel Collection Auction

Posted on February 19, 2025February 19, 2025 by Liz Bailey

Highly anticipated, Christie’s Sale of Iris Apfel’s collection took place as a timed auction from New York, running from 28th January until 13th February. The sale included 220 lots from the late ‘Matriarch of Maximialism’s’ personal collection across fashion, furnishings, textiles, accessories and of course, jewellery.

Known and celebrated for her bold and bright signature style, Apfel was a renowned interior designer, fashion icon, model, curator and collector. Her irreverent, eclectic and playful style was absolutely reflected in the incredible lots on offer.

Accessories

It seems fitting that the lot to ‘kick off’ this stylish sale was a selection of eighteen pairs of glasses. In bright hues, zebra prints and heart shapes, this striking mixed lot certainly set the tone for the rest of the sale. Estimated initially at $400-600, the bids were sitting at over ten times that amount a mere few days into the two-week timed sale, and one lucky bidder secured this lot for $15,120.

Another lot that was unsurprisingly popular was lot 48, ten pairs of eyewear. Only two days into the sale the bidding was at $3,500 against a modest $200-300 estimate, and bidding concluded at an incredible $16,380.

Another lot of Apfel’s accessories included a selection of evening bags. Including all the hallmarks of Apfel’s signature style to include embroidery, bold colours, feathers and embellishments, this popular lot sold for $10,080.

Furnishings

The daughter of an antique dealer and an expert on interiors (having decorated the White House for no less than nine Presidents!) bidders were offered a glimpse into Apfel’s extraordinary collection of interiors and decorative objects.

Animals were a huge feature in Apfel’s interiors collection, multiple paintings of Maltese dogs (a clear favourite), Black Forest bears, and even a giant carved ostrich were just a few of the animal lots on offer. The carved 1970s Italian ostrich stood 124cm high and had been featured in Apfel’s Architectural Digest issue of 2016, estimated at 6,000-8,000, this big bird sold for $16,380.

Vibrant prints, colours, and an eclectic mixture of items from Greek style all the way to the present day ensured the catalogue was a visual treat!

A personal favourite of mine was a pair of wonderful Italian armchairs. Modelled with a scallop shell back, dolphin armrests and raised on shell legs, these 20th century carved and silvered chairs exuded sheer opulence! Estimated at $2,000-3,000, these chairs reached $8,820. The back and seat in scallop-shell form, the arms modeled as dolphins raised on shell-form legs, the back legs on each example attached backwards. 40 in. (101.5 cm) high, overall.

Fashion

Hotly anticipated was Apfel’s selection of fashion and couture pieces. Taking up just under half of the sale, there were ninety-six lots from Iris’s collection, ranging from group lots of unattributed vintage clothing at the lower end of the offering, all the way to custom couture pieces Iris wore in printed publications. This wonderful mixture of high-low dressing was absolutely Apfel’s trademark and lent an accessibility to collectors of all levels.

Designer garments by Carolina Herrera, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Moschino, Christian Dior, Alice & Olivia, Valentino, Prada, Jean Paul Gautier, Iris Apfel x H&M and countless other designers were offered with estimates from $100-200 to $1,200-1,800.

Lot 51: A MULTICOLOR FEATHER COAT
LABELED DIOR HAUTE COUTURE, PARIS, 21ST CENTURY

Amongst the top sellers was this fabulous Dior Haute Couture feather coat that Apfel had been photographed in by James Mollison for the Collectors series, featured in a 2018 Issue of Christie’s Magazine. This piece instantly attracted bids and reached $9,000 very early on in the timed sale, finally settling at $11,970 at the conclusion of the sale.

A heavily beaded and embroidered coat by Stacey Bendet for Alice & Olivia in 2022 was also fought for by bidders and reached $6,048 against a $400-600 estimate.

Another garment by this designer was an eye-catching A-line skirt detailed with Iris’ own embroidered and sequinned portrait sold for $7,560.

Jewellery

Another layer of Apfel’s iconic style was of course her jewellery. This sale featured sixteen lots of jewellery, all beautifully bold and eye-catching!

Group lots of brightly coloured lucite bangles, costume jewellery acquired from travels to Eastern Europe, the Middle East, China and the Hindu Kush region, beaded necklaces, rhinestone suites, and Southwestern American jewels were all a part of this spectacular offering of stylish jewellery.

The top-selling lot for the jewellery was this wonderful selection of turquoise, lucite and resin costume jewellery. Featuring an Alexis Bittar bangle, Jianhui London necklaces and bracelet, Rara Avis bracelets, blue hardstone studded lucite cuffs and bangle among others, this beautiful collection sold for $9,450 against an estimate of $300-500.

Pieces from Apfel’s own line of costume jewellery Rara Avis, originally sold through the Home Shopping Network were also amongst the lots on offer. Her playful lucite bangles set with googly eyes were trademark Iris and one of the most popular designs from Rara Avis at the time. These typically retail on the secondary market between $300-400, however with the added provenance, this lot of fifteen bangles (six by Rara Avis) sold for $6,300.

To arrange a jewellery valuation, call us on 01883 722736 or email us on [email protected].

What makes Austrian emeralds so rare and unique?

Posted on February 14, 2025February 14, 2025 by Liz Bailey

A lot that stood out to me around the salerooms last week was this this pretty cluster ring. Sold at Woolley & Wallis and described as ‘An unusual emerald and diamond ring, late 19th century,’ this ring was set with a principal oval emerald cabochon and surrounded by cushion shaped diamonds.

Accompanied by a certificate from Gemmological Certification Services, the emerald’s origin was stated as Austrian, with indications of moderate clarity enhancement. The unusual factor, then, in this lot was the origin of the emerald! Usually at auction we can see Zambian (increasingly!) and the historically favoured Colombian emeralds. An emerald from an altogether different locale in Austria, was an unusual thing indeed!

The Austrian emerald deposit lies in the Habachtal Valley. Located in the Hohe Tauern National Park, and a favourite with hikers, this valley is known for its emerald deposits and rich mining history!

The first written reference to the Habachtal emeralds is in 1797, although in 1992, Roman jewels in the Treasure of Lyon-Vaise included emerald necklaces and earrings set with emeralds mined in the Habachtal Valley. These pieces are thought to have been buried for fear of Germanic raids and the coins allow its burial to be dated to after AD 258.

The first international appearance of Habachtal emeralds was in 1861 at the London World Industrial Exhibition. Mining operations by Samuel Goldschmidt began in the early 1860s, and he sold these crystals from his Viennese storefront. Following his death in the 1870s, the mines were ran by various English companies until around 1913 – purportedly selling the stones as ‘Indian emeralds’ “because the deposit was not known to most of the people in gem trade and would have sold for a much lower price.” (Laing Antiques).

The ring above dates to this later period of English owned mining in the Habachtal area and could well have been originally sold as an ‘Indian’ emerald. Identifying features for Habachtal emeralds are typically heavily included, with “highly-ordered graphite, and extremely water-rich melt inclusions.” (Rainer, 2020). Sold as Indian emeralds and typically assessed as lower quality owing to their multiple inclusions, examples of Habachtal emeralds are not frequently identified! Below is an example of a diamond and 2.10ct Austrian emerald ring currently retailing for €14,500.

Habachtal emeralds are still mined in the present day, although it much lower quantities than the late 19^th century. The yield is typically small scale and is reserved for collectors of specimens, much like the example below sold at Christies in 2023.

To arrange your own jewellery valuation, call us on 01883 722736 or email us on [email protected]

The year of the snake, or the year of Serpenti?

Posted on January 29, 2025January 29, 2025 by Liz Bailey

Bulgari’s Serpenti Watch Collection, its History and Value

Arguably one of Bulgari’s most iconic collections across both jewellery and watches, the Serpenti collection has been and continues to be a firm favourite. Seen adorning countless celebrities, from Elizabeth Taylor in the early days of the Serpenti watch, to Adele in the present day, who has been spotted wearing her yellow gold and diamond set Serpenti watch to basketball games, these timepieces are a wonderful blend between sculpture, design and watchmaking. With a new edition of Serpenti watches launched in January of this year, the Serpenti watches have had a hold over watch collectors for over 75 years.

The first Bulgari Serpenti collection was launched in 1948, created from the brand’s Tubogas technique patented in 1881– featuring gold or steel strips wrapped around a core. This simple yet effective design was the unassuming starting point for the breathtakingly detailed creations that were to follow.

It was in the 1960s that the Bulgari Serpenti watch gained its scales and cult status. Featuring individually applied enamel and gemstone hexagonal scales to each Serpenti watch and movements hidden within the mouth of each snake, Bulgari created wearable sculptures that were frequently seen gracing film stars and Vogue magazine covers. Although prevalent in mainstream media, fewer than 100 of these early Serpenti bracelet watches were created, and the variety in their designs, dials and movements is remarkable.

We would recommend an insurance valuation in the region of £150,000-175,000 each for the above pieces.

Bulgari did not just use neutral, earth tones for its 1960s Serpenti bracelet watches. Bright enamelled creations in pink, green, blue, yellow, red and cream were created in this creative and colourful decade.

More complex a creation still are the gem-set Serpenti watches. Incredibly rare and sought after by collectors, examples set with turquoise, tiger’s eye, lapis lazuli and even onyx scales were meticulously created. One such example is currently available to purchase on 1^st Dibs for £542,000. Set throughout with individual coral cabochon scales and accented with pear cut ruby eyes, this piece is adorned with a Jaeger Le-Coultre movement. This particular piece was exhibited at the Houston Museum of Natural Science as part of the Bulgari: 130 Years of Masterpieces, Houston, Texas, May 2 – October 5, 2014.

1970s and 80s Serpenti Watches

Having previously collaborated with esteemed watchmakers such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and later Movado in creating the tiny movements for these snake bracelet watches, Bulgari began to produce its own movements from around 1978 onwards, and this decade marked a return to the its Tubogas roots, with comparatively slimmed down designs of snakes that wrapped twice or three times around the wearer’s wrist.

The Modern Day Serpenti Watch

In 2009, Bulgari marked its 125^th anniversary by reintroducing the Serpenti in a new, more geometric form. This more contemporary look aligned with Bulgari’s Serpenti jewellery line and continues to feature in the brand’s most current collections.

The most recent iterations of the Serpenti watch were launched on 21^st January 2025. For the first time ever, Serpenti watches with in-house BVS100 automatic movements are available to purchase. Designed with an exhibition case back to highlight the movement, these watches will retail anywhere from $10,200 for a steel model, all the way to $52,000 for a rose gold Serpenti, and €139,000 for the diamond-set Serpenti Seduttori. These will be available to purchase in the UK from April.

Valuations of Bulgari Serpenti Watches

Bulgari’s current Serpenti collection of watches to purchase in the UK currently are retailing between £4,920 and £83,000 at the time of writing. As seen above, the sculptural snake creations from the 1960s hold the most value owing to their rarity, the sheer craftsmanship involved and of course their place in design history. With the ongoing innovation and sartorial appetite for these iconic watches continuing to flourish, we would expect subsequent values to increase, particularly for earlier models and limited references.

Make Mine a Marquise! The Fancy Cut Set to Shine in 2025

Posted on January 22, 2025January 23, 2025 by Liz Bailey

Whilst 2024 was undoubtedly the year of the oval engagement ring, 2025 looks to feature the marquise cut much more prominently!

According to the Rapaport Diamond Report Volume 47, no. 48 – marquise cut diamonds are benefitting from an “excellent market – the most expensive fancy shape – supported by shortages.” According to the list, these exclusive shapes can currently price in at up to 15% more than their shorter fancy cut counterparts – suggesting that these elongated fancy cuts are set for a good year ahead.

Celebrity influence naturally plays a role in the demand for fancy shapes. Selena Gomez’s engagement ring from Benny Blanco in December 2024 features a principal marquise cut diamond. Paying homage to her 2015 song “Good for You” in which she compares herself to a marquise cut diamond, this ring features a sizeable marquise cut stone accented beautifully with a round brilliant cut diamond band.

History of the Marquise Cut

The marquise shape is an elongated oval with pointed ends. This distinctive navette shape diamond dates to 18th century France and King Louis XV, who commissioned a stone fashioned in the shape of his lover Marquise de Pompadour’s lips. The marquise cut diamond was born!

Value Factors of Marquise Cut Diamonds

Universally with natural diamonds, of course the famous 4 Cs (colour, clarity, cut, carat weight) are the key determining factors for value with these stones. The better the colour grade either on the colourless or fancy colour scale, with minimal inclusions, excellent cut grade and maximum carat weight are all attributes of the most valuable stones.

Another incredibly important factor to consider particularly for elongated fancy shapes such as the marquise cut is the proportion, and more specifically, the length to width ratio! This ratio is deduced by dividing the length by the width – and much is due to personal preference however owing to the alignment of the facets, a slight deviation of the LWR or cut grade can result in undesirable optical effects such as the dreaded ‘bow tie’ (a dark shadow to the centre of the stone). This visually heavy optical effect of course not only minimises the brilliance of the stone but has a negative impact on the value.

Buyer Beware!

Above is an image of a 1ct marquise cut lab grown diamond, currently available to purchase online at only £365. As seen in the past year, the price of production for lab grown diamonds and therefore their subsequent retail prices are at an all-time low, with long term valuations set to look even lower and resale value almost negligible for synthetic diamonds.

To compare as closely as possible, 1ct natural marquise cut diamonds with identical colour, clarity and cut grades, fluorescence and similar length-width ratio to the above lab grown stone (D, VS1, Excellent, none, 1.9-2.3) are retailing currently between £3,500 and £8,290 on a reputable online retailers website.

This massive discrepancy in prices and of course continued value for natural stones is not to be taken lightly – we would recommend purchasing your natural diamonds from a reputable source, with notable laboratory certification, and of course, ensuring that in the long run you have adequate and continued cover through a thorough insurance valuation from our specialist team.

The Pearl Renaissance

Posted on January 13, 2025January 23, 2025 by Liz Bailey

According to Jewellery Net’s Pearl Report 2024-5, “The pearl industry is witnessing a renaissance of sorts, ushered in by shifting perceptions of the pearl among a more discerning clientele.” Eagerly awaited by jewellers, retailers and auctioneers for some time, this ‘renaissance’ certainly appears to be bolstering values and signalling a buoyancy in the top end of the market, in particular for fine cultured pearls that had previously been waning.

The pearl report points towards the ‘sustainable nature’ of pearls as a key factor in attracting a refreshed and renewed interest, as well as attention from a younger ‘Gen Z’ demographic. Indeed, it appears that in 2024, the secondary market at auction has reflected this, with continued high prices for natural pearls, and a revived interest in certain aspects of the cultured pearl market.

Natural pearls:

In terms of desirability, natural saltwater pearls have been and continue to be the most sought-after type of pearls at auction. Performing steadily and consistently well in years gone by, 2024 echoed a strength in the market for rare larger pearls, blemish free, with a pleasing body colour and where applicable evenly matched within a jewel. Other factors such as designer attribution, historical provenance and market scarcity also played a key role in achieved prices across 2024.

Christies witnessed the sale of some spectacular natural pearl jewellery this year, frequently fetching hammer prices in excess of six figures. One such example was a natural saltwater pearl and diamond single strand necklace. Featuring forty-three pearls (eleven of which were cultured) graduating in size from 7.25mm to 12.20mm, this piece achieved a final hammer price of $378,000 in their June New York Magnificent Jewels Auction.

Remarkably, in this same sale, a pair of slightly baroque natural saltwater pearl and diamond earrings measuring 14.8mm in diameter each achieved a hammer price of $277,200, demonstrating the demand for these relatively rare, large, well matched natural saltwater pearls in the international market.

Fine Victorian natural pearl jewellery performed incredibly well at auction this year, with some of the highest hammer prices achieved going to late 19^th century pieces. A spectacular enamel, pearl, diamond and gem-set piece by Marcus & Co dating to 1895 sold at Bonhams this June for a staggering £165,500. This piece was set with two natural pearls, to include a 13.5mm bouton pearl, and a later 13.25ct natural pearl drop together with over 15 carats of diamonds. This beautiful lot achieved the highest hammer price for pearl jewellery sold at Bonhams in 2024, and achieved a house record for jewellery by Marcus & Co.

A fabulous auction result for Gloucestershire saleroom Chorleys was achieved in the same month, with a Victorian natural saltwater pearl necklace and detachable pendant/brooch. Showcasing a principal natural pearl of 8.46ct, a sizeable natural pearl drop, and slightly graduated natural saltwater pearl beads measuring 5.2mm-6.9mm, this piece fetched a hammer price of £85,000.

Elsewhere, records were set this year with the largest ever discovered natural freshwater pearl from Scotland selling in August. This impressive round freshwater pearl measured 10.5-10.6mm in diameter and fetched a £75,000 hammer against an estimate of £40,000-60,000.

Cultured pearls

Previously the victim of a downturn in value, hammer prices for cultured pearls in 2024 were incredibly promising. With some fantastic prices achieved for the finest cultured pearls on offer, this market trend offered a glimpse into a hopefully much more buoyant future for cultured pearls – although it is worth noting that low prices and unsolds remained the general pattern for smaller, worse quality and unattributed cultured pearl jewellery.

Top hammer prices this year were reserved for large, well-matched, symmetrical round cultured pearls, with a great lustre and blemish-free surface. One such example was a necklace by the ‘founder’ of cultured pearls’ eponymous company Mikimoto. Featuring one long strand of 140 round cultured pearls measuring at least 12mm in diameter each and terminating with a pavé set diamond clasp, this piece reached $44,800 at Bonhams in September 2024. For the sake of comparison, a Mikimoto strand of 8mm pearls, nearly twice the length with similar pavé set diamond clasps sold for £5,500 in 2021.

Cultured pearls set in designer jewellery also achieved great hammer prices at auction. Featuring much smaller cultured pearls at only 3.5-4mm each, an exquisitely made gem-set sautoir by Van Cleef & Arpels dating to 1975 caught the attention of bidders at Bonhams in June of this year, and subsequently sold for £38,400 inclusive of buyer’s premium.

Similarly, a more contemporary design in the form of cuff bangle by Bulgari set with sixteen cultured pearls of around 7.5-8mm in diameter together with 7-8 carats of pavé set diamonds sold at Christies Paris in the same month for €25,200. A similar example of a Bulgari Parentesi bangle set with twelve cultured pearls and approximately 7 carats of diamonds remained unsold with an estimate of £6,000-8,000 at an auction in November 2022.

These examples show an extremely promising upwards turn for fine cultured pearl jewellery in 2024, which – with any luck, will stabilise if not grow well into 2025.

Conch and Melo pearls

Conch and Melo pearls are another category of natural pearls to retain a high desirability and value, weathering the ‘storm’ experienced by their cultured counterparts. Owing to their rarity, gorgeous hue, and unique ‘flamed’ lustre, these non-nacreous pearls have long been incredibly valuable. Auction results of 2024 echoed this continued buoyancy in value, with a fine 19mm melo pearl and sapphire ring by Hemmerle selling at Bonhams in June for £52,100 inclusive of premium.

An impressive suite of jewellery comprising no less than seven conch pearls set within a pair of drop earrings and a cocktail ring was accompanied by two GIA reports and sold at Christies Hong Kong for HK$1,008,000 in May.

Whether set in jewellery or offered as a loose gemstone, conch and melo pearls remain highly sought-after, with a 24.54ct melo pearl selling in 2022 for $31,875, and a 10.01ct conch pearl selling in the previous year for $11,475 at Bonhams.

Keeping in mind the strength of prices for both natural and cultured pearl jewellery across the salerooms in 2024, it is vital to ensure that your insurance valuations offer adequate cover and that your jewellery is documented by a specialist.

For further information on our insurance valuations from our nationwide team of specialists, contact us via [email protected].

Under the Tree: What our team are hoping for this Christmas

Posted on December 18, 2024December 18, 2024 by Doerr Dallas Valuations

We’ve asked our fabulous team of valuers and admin staff, what they would like to find under the christmas tree if money were no object. Find out what they picked below…

Rachel Doerr, Managing Director

“After a visit to Boodles in Knightsbridge, I couldn’t stop thinking about this Knot White Gold Diamond Ring – it really caught my eye. The design is just stunning, and the diamonds have such a gorgeous sparkle. It’s the kind of piece that feels timeless, and I’d love to find it under the tree. Another thing I’d be happy with is a pair of single-stone diamond earrings. They’re simple, classic, and would go with pretty much anything. And if I’m being really wishful, I’d also be thrilled with two black labrador puppies. They’d bring so much joy and energy to the house – definitely the best kind of Christmas surprise!”

David Dallas, Old Master Specialist

“I have taken this question rather literally! Dressing the Christmas tree with the children and now grandchildren is a seasonal tradition not only in the Dallas household, but almost everywhere in the Christian world.
Whenever I am in New York in December, I go to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, where there is a 20ft Christmas tree underneath which is grouped a nativity scene made of beautiful 18th Century Neapolitan Creche Figures and animals, which have been loaned by Loretta Howard and her family since 1957.
I’m not sure if one could ever find figures the quality of Loretta Howard’s, but even 19th Century Crib Figures can be in excess of £600 each, so they would cost a small fortune. Please be generous Santa!”

Alastair Meiklejon, Senior Valuer

‘When Christmas comes each year it is a time for not only giving presents, but writing cards and getting in touch with people that you may not have spoken to throughout the year – whilst modern times dictate that you can email, or message – there is still something special about receiving a letter from a loved one, and what better way to do it than with a Montblanc pen. Whilst many people look at the ultra valuable fountain pens that they are well known for – I would opt for the entry level roller ball. With all the style and class of the bigger relations, but with a fraction of the cost”

Ben Hanly, Impressionist, Post-War & Contemporary Art Specialist

Alas, what I really, really want under the tree this Christmas is not going to happen…
Although I am a picture man through and through, what people might not know, is that I adore antiquities and early sculpture…. I suppose as dark secrets go, it’s not that bad!
What I saw in an auction in November was a superb Khmer stone figure of a standing Goddess from Cambodia, dated to the 11th-12th AD – estimated at £5,000-8,000. I know this is not a small amount of money (it’s Christmas so who cares about reality!) – but the sculpture was amazing, and a perfect example of art from this period when the Cambodian civilisation was at its peak (anyone been to Angkor Wat?).
The sculpture is so simple and elegant, and the condition is excellent – discounting the missing arms and head! Unfortunately, I was not the only one with good taste – the work was bought by someone else with more money than myself for £8,000 plus fees. All I can hope for is that the buyer was in fact my wife who bought it as my surprise Christmas treat! Fingers crossed!

Jonathan Horwich, Modern & Contemporary Art Specialist

“I would like to see a watercolour or two by Eric Ravilious (British, 1903-1942) under the tree, his work is sublime and uniquely English, his skill with watercolour is second to none and he faithfully follows in the footsteps of the great Masters of 19th Century watercolour painting tradition such as JMW Turner – Around £80 to 120,000 for something like this…”

Jenny Knott, Silver & Jewellery Specialist

“I have always loved Christmas and all the traditions that go with it. When I first worked at Bonhams Knightsbridge fresh out of university and earned a pittance, I would cross the road to Harrods once a week and buy a single decoration from their Christmas shop. Since then, I have bought Christmas tree decorations from all over the world and clever Father Christmas has given my children a decoration every year since they were born, so that they now have enough to decorate Christmas trees of their own. I would love therefore to have another decoration to add to my collection, perhaps something from the Georg Jensen range, always stylish and classy. The Scandinavians really do know how to do Christmas. However, if I am really allowed to indulge myself, I would love a delicate Edwardian natural pearl and diamond necklace. Something that could be worn everyday or with evening dress. This would give me great joy, transcend the vagaries of passing fashion and be something to pass on to my daughter in due course. I’ll have to wait and see if I’ve been naughty or nice and what Father Christmas has in store for me!”

Annabell Parry, Jewellery Specialist

“They are a variation on the classic chandelier earrings but were popular in the 1800’s and often have rose cut, old mine cut and old European cut diamonds which were cut for candlelight and worn by beautiful wealthy women who had daytime and nighttime versions. Nowadays I would happily settle with a pair glittering in the winter evenings at a snug private dinner.
Surviving pairs of these earrings are rare as they were so decadent they have often been broken down during tough times. Therefore, because of their rarity, the value of a good pair is considerable so should any ever come up at auction there is always fierce international bidding and could be argued to be a savvy purchase and investment. I’ve sourced my ball gown, carriage and Prince just waiting for the finishing touch …..at a rough guess £80 – £100k”

Aurélia Turrall, Jewellery Specialist

“I’d like to find a diamond-set Trinity ring by Cartier. Cartier’s reputation needs no explaining. Their craftmanship remains unique, stylish and guarantees longevity. The Trinity ring is the perfect gift as it comprises the three gold colours, ready to suit any skin tone, and the diamonds add sparkle which is what Christmas is all about when it comes to the ladies’ gifts! It is ingenious of the brand to offer this ring in so many different options. The ring that I would like only has one band pavé-set with diamonds, and can be small or classic.”

Francesca Orme, Jewellery Specialist

“I would love to see a small wrapped parcel with a red box!!! And inside this striking incredible ring by Cartier. It’s not very old- 1970’s but I just love the design and how wearable it is! It makes a real statement but the fact that it’s made up of lots of small graduated pieces, with lapis lazuli floral top and diamond highlights, makes it delicate at the same time. £25,000- a steal!!!!

Richard Fattorini, Rare Books & Manuscripts, Historical Photographs and Maps Consultant Specialist

“Under the Christmas tree I’d be thrilled to discover a signed or inscribed copy of Ian Fleming’s novel Casino Royale which introduced the world to the now legendary British spy James Bond. The book was first published in 1953 with a dust-jacket devised by the author, and with a modest first print run of 4,728 copies. The book was an enormous success and Ian Fleming went on to write a further 13 novels in the series, which have sold more than 100 million copies to date. A first edition in a dust-jacket will cost from £10,000-30,000 depending on condition, and a signed or inscribed copy from £30,000-125,000 depending on the inscription.”

Stephanie Connell, Senior Valuer & Collectors Specialist

“If i were to find one special piece under the Christmas tree it would be a Cecil Beaton design for the stage production of ‘Coco’ starring Katherine Hepburn. These designs are a combination of three 20th century legends – Cecil Beaton was at the height of his powers as an artist and costume designer. The musical starred the all time leading multi Academy Award winning actress Katherine Hepburn as Coco Chanel. Chanel in turn is the most influential fashion designer of the 20th century! Bonhams recently sold a very good example created for the 1969 production which would be a very special gift.”

Liz Bailey, Jewellery, Silver & Watch Specialist

“I would just love to receive some vintage Elsa Peretti under the tree! This year has really shone a light on her wonderful designs in the fashion world, I have well and truly been ‘influenced,’ seeing celebrities such as Rosie Huntington-Whiteley stacking up their Peretti bone cuffs over simple and stylised outfits. I personally could see myself wearing one of her lovely vase pendants, a vintage one of course would be preferable but I would be thrilled with this one currently retailing at £4,100.
… If Santa is feeling flush this year, I would definitely love to add to my watch collection! A Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 101 collection wristwatch would be a dream Christmas present! This 1970s example was set throughout with nine carats of baguette cut diamonds – the perfect blend of fine jewellery and watchmaking innovation – the 101 movement was created in 1929 and is renowned for being, still to this day, the world’s smallest mechanical movement ever made – weighing just one gram!

Fiona Hamilton, Silver Specialist

“Chinchillas normally cost between £80 and £200 and make excellent pets! Originating from the rocky slopes of The Andes they live together in large colonies, so cute!

Or I’d also love to see an Art Deco Day and Night ring from the 1920s, multiple rings in one! £3,315.51- 1st Dibs”

Ashley Crawford, Asian Art Specialist

“If I could receive any gift this holiday season, I would choose this terracotta figure of a court lady from the Tang Dynasty that I was fortunate enough to view in person at Sotheby’s New York during Asia Week this year. The Tang Dynasty has always been one of my favorite periods of Chinese history, not only from an art historical standpoint, but also because of the freedoms that court women enjoyed compared to in the surrounding dynasties. Terracotta sculptures of such women shed insight into their daily lives and interests, such as riding horses, playing music or dancing in women-only ensembles, or displaying the latest fashion trends. Tang court ladies are either portrayed as very thin or round, with the latter shown here in this 8th-century example. Her large zhuimaji (“falling off the horse”) hairstyle is modeled after the concubine Yang Guifei and is characteristic of the period, as are her long sleeves extending well beyond her hands.There is no shortage of Tang ladies in the Asian art market, meaning that unusual or high-quality examples perform significantly better at auction. This Tang lady is notable for her size, condition, and provenance.”

Jane Vann, Valuations & Private Client Services Administrator

“A few years ago, 2016 to be precise, Adele headlined on the Pyramid stage at Glastonbury. As always, her performance was exceptional in her typically down-to-earth way, complete with her ‘potty’ mouth as she calls it! But apart from her singing and language, another thing stood out for me – her bracelet! Her outfit that night was a lovely Boho style dress, complemented with this lovely bracelet that I had to Google to find out what it was, as I’d never seen one before! Since then, everyone is wearing them, including Queen Camilla, who can regularly be seen wearing her turquoise example! I’m quite sure that Queen Camilla’s will not be fake, which probably can’t be said for all the women and girls I see wearing them now! It is of course the Vintage Alhambra bracelet with 5 motifs.”

Kristin Panagiotou, Administration Manager

“As a massive Prince fan, I would love to receive a copy of the new book Prince: Icon. Prince: Icon is a photography book curated by Steve Parke, former art director at Paisley Park, and contributions from those close to him, with new and rarely seen images of the artist, from album covers, performances, candid snapshots and portraits to name a few. I was fortunate to attend a Prince concert when I was in high school and his music, art and creativity has continued to inspire me since then. This book would be a perfect addition to my Prince music and memorabilia collection. ”

Jenny Serra, Marketing Manager

“I am a big kid at heart and love the magic of Christmas each year. What I would really love is to visit Lapland and pretend for a few days that it’s all real – completely immerse myself in all the Christmassy goodness. I would visit Father Christmas, feed the reindeer, travel by sleigh, play in the snow and drink cocoa by a roaring fire. I can’t think of anything I’d enjoy more!”

Inside the Record-Breaking Sale of the Anglesey Necklace

Posted on November 15, 2024November 22, 2024 by Liz Bailey

Sotheby’s Royal & Noble Jewels Sale took place in Geneva on Wednesday 13^th November. This historic sale presented a spectacular selection of historic fine jewellery, with provenance relating to several royal and noble families, including Tsar Ferdinand of Bulgaria and his family, Countess Mona Bismarcak, King Umberto II of Italy, the Ducal House of Bavaria and the Princely Thurn und Taxis family. Featuring 174 lots, this auction featured a stunning selection of tiaras, necklaces, rings, suites, cufflinks, tie pins, cigarette cases, seals, pocket watches and many more jewels with illustrious provenance.

The Anglesey Necklace

Designed as a pair of old cushion-shaped diamond tassels connected by three rows of collet-set old cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds, length approximately 670mm, fitted case.

Undoubtedly the most anticipated lot of the sale was the Anglesey Necklace. This highly important and historic jewel is an incredibly rare survivor of the Georgian court, set with a breathtaking 300 carats of diamonds and crafted with hugely innovative techniques for the time. An outstanding jewel to be in private hands, this piece has been known as the Anglesey Necklace, owned by the Paget family for centuries, thence a private collector, and offered for auction as the centrepiece to this historical sale. Estimated at 1,600,000 – 2,200,000 CHF (£1.4 to 1.9 million), this significant Georgian necklace finally sold at 3,550,000 CHF (£3,154,246.00).

Formerly in the collection of the Marquess of Anglesey, the Anglesey Necklace has featured in two important jewellery exhibitions of the 20^th century, first in 1959 as part of The Ageless Diamond Loan exhibition in London, sitting alongside many famous Royal and aristocratic diamond jewels including the Williamson Pink Diamond and the brooch set with the Cullinan III and IV diamonds belonging to Queen Elizabeth II. Twenty years later in 1979, the necklace featured in the American Museum of Natural History’s Bicentennial Exhibition.

A Marie Antoinette Connection? The lore of the Anglesey Necklace

The lore surrounding this jewel carried a huge significance and of course an impact on the subsequent value. Although there is no formal or documented evidence of a connection between the Anglesey necklace and the jewel that sparked the French Revolution, there are of course compelling factors that could plausibly link the two.

The sheer grandeur and scale of this piece narrows down the few noble ladies who could have owned this jewel. Set with nearly 300 carats of rare, Golconda diamonds (the South African mines were not discovered until 1867) and encased within unconventional, innovative and cutting-edge open back settings to allow the full radiance of these valuable stones.

There are no documents detailing this piece in the collection of the Paget family until the later part of the 19^th century. From its creation in the late 18th century, this is a monumental jewel to not be featured in inventories and documents of the time. As Sotheby’s point out,

“it is unclear exactly how the Paget family came in possession of this diamond jewel, a link to the first Marquess seems plausible given its date.”

In 1785, a diamond necklace created for Marie Antoinette was stolen in Paris. Records show that six months later, a London jeweller William Gray purchased 300 diamonds from the Marie Antoinette necklace totalling 600 stones. Stylistically, the tassels on the Anglesey necklace and the sketches of Marie Antoinettes necklaces do appear incredibly similar, which adds to this compelling tale.

More recently, in American-born British conservative politician and society figure, Sir Henry “Chips” Channon’s diary published in 2022, there is reference to this seeming connection. He mentions a part of Queen Marie Antoinette’s infamous necklace,

“at least two ropes of it, the rest, according to history, was broken up before the French Revolution but I believe the Anglesey tassels, which Marjorie sometimes wears, are a part of it.”

Sir Cecil Beaton photographed the Anglesey Necklace, as it was then known, being worn as a négligé by the glamorous and sophisticated Marjorie Paget, Marchioness of Anglesey, during George VI’s coronation 1937. The necklace was also worn at Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953.

Irrespective of the alleged connection to the French Revolution, the Anglesey Necklace is a rare survivor of an incredibly opulent Georgian Court. Designed to be worn in many ways, knotted at the neck, worn as a négligé, draped over the back, or even as a belt, this superb diamond necklace is without a doubt “one of the most outstanding Georgian jewels” (Andres White Correal – Head of Royal and Noble Jewels, Chairman, Sotheby’s Jewellery), and a historic result at auction for jewellery of the period.

To find out more about our jewellery valuation service by calling us on 01883 722736 or emailing [email protected]

Slow and Steady? The Enduring Appeal of Cartier’s Tortue Wristwatch

Posted on November 13, 2024November 22, 2024 by Liz Bailey

French for ‘Turtle,’ the Cartier Tortue gets its name from its distinctive tortoise shell shaped case. The Tortue was Cartier’s third ever watch case design, predating even the ever-popular Tank. Louis Cartier had just introduced the Santos-Dumont in 1904 and the Tonneau in 1906 when he designed the Tortue in 1912.

Cartier’s First Ever Chronograph

The Tortue started out as a time-only watch but in 1928, both a minute repeater and a single-button chronograph were introduced. The Tortue Monopusher was in fact Cartier’s first ever chronograph timepiece. These early pieces are incredibly rare, and less than fifteen pieces have ever surfaced on the open market. In 2002, Antiquorum sold a 1929 Cartier Tortue ref. 20797 – a rare example of a minute repeating watch and at the time thought to have been the only minute repeater made by Cartier during the Art Deco period. This piece set auction records, and achieved a hammer of CHF 993,500, or £877,871.50. Two years later in 2004, Antiquorum unearthed and sold a 1928 example of a Tortue Minute Repeater ref. 20797 and this piece achieved $640,500.

Throughout the 20th century, Cartier have produced many variations of the Tortue, in steel, yellow gold and platinum. Popularised as a ladies watch and gaining celebrity fans such as Cate Blanchett and Patti Smith, these watches have been available to purchase on the secondary market, performing steadily on an upwards trajectory.

For example, the Cartier Tortue reference 2496C which was produced from 1998-2008 is a time-only, 34mm, 18ct yellow gold watch with silvered dial and classic Cartier dial with Roman numeral markers, chapter ring and blued steel Breguet style hands. According to Chrono 24, the average value of this watch took a typical post-covid dip from those dizzy heights in watch collecting, however has been steadily increasing over the last 18 months, with the average sale figure on the secondary market now sitting at £12,500 (rising from a modest £5,000 pre-covid).

Re-imagined and launched at this year’s Watches & Wonders, the 2024 Privé Tortue is the eighth instalment in Cartier’s latest Privé collection. Celebrating 112 years since the inception of the original Cartier Tortue, the maison introduced a collection of time-only and more excitingly chronograph Privé Tortue models, each limited to 200 numbered pieces – except for a diamond and platinum monopusher (or monopoussoir in French) watch limited to 50 pieces.

Model	Production Quantity	Price at Watches & Wonders 2024 (Source: Hodinkee)
Platinum Privé Tortue Monopoussir Watch	200	€53,000
Yellow Gold Privé Tortue Monopoussir Watch	200	€46,000
Platinum Privé Tortue Watch	200	€31,100
Yellow Gold Privé Tortue Watch	200	€27,900
Platinum Diamond Privé Tortue Watch	50	€67,735 (£56,500, Source: Cartier)

With production numbers limited and many models already sold out – at the time of writing only the platinum diamond Privé Tortue and the platinum Privé Tortue were still available to purchase new from Cartier – it will be interesting to see the rise in value for these timepieces, particularly the Monopoussir references with their sleek classic design, impressively ‘simple’ one button chronograph complication and distinctive red ruby cabochon crown.

In what remains an ever-changing market, current and up-to-date and specialist watch valuations are incredibly important to ensure that your collection is adequately covered. For an insurance valuation of your collection from our specialist, nationwide team, contact our team via [email protected] or visit our website www.doerrvaluations.co.uk.

World’s Second Largest Gem-Quality Diamond Unearthed in Historic Find

Posted on September 26, 2024November 25, 2024 by Liz Bailey

What will happen to the stone that has dominated international headlines for the last month?

The discovery of a 2,492 carat diamond from the Karowe Mine, Botswana in August of 2024 will come as news to very few. This incredible discovery was publicised across every major international news channel following the announcement from Canadian owned corporation Lucara on 21^st August.

Images of the rough diamond filling the palm of a hand, positioned alongside a diminutive golf ball for size reference, as well as videos of the stone being inspected and admired by Botswana’s president Mokgweetsi Masisi have filled news feeds worldwide. Rightly so, this incredible find is the largest gem-quality diamond uncovered since the discovery of the 3,106 carat Cullinan diamond from the Premier No. 2 Mine in Cullinan, South Africa in 1905.

The Cullinan Diamond – a Precedent?

When the largest ever diamond was unearthed nearly 100 years ago, South Africa was still a British colony. The Cullinan was offered for sale in London in 1905 and failed to sell initially. It was purchased in 1907 by the Transvaal Colony government and was subsequently presented as a gift to King Edward VII by Prime Minister Louis Botha.

The 3,106 carat rough stone was sent to Amsterdam to be cut by Joseph Asscher & Co (famed for creating the Asscher cut in 1902). It purportedly took Joseph Asscher four days to prepare the stone to cleave, and eight months to polish the original rough stone into nine large principal stones and ninety-seven small brilliant cuts.

Clockwise from top left: II, I, III, IX, VII, V, IV, VI, VIII.

The yield of the nine largest stones are detailed in size order and the entirety of the collection is housed within the collection of the Crown Jewels as follows:

Cullinan I – otherwise known as the Star of Africa –530.20 carat pear-cut stone. Set in the Sovereign’s Royal Sceptre.

Cullinan II – 317.40 carat cushion-cut stone. Set into the band of the Imperial State Crown.

Cullinan III – 94.40 carat pear-cut stone. Set into Queen Mary’s Crown.

Cullinan IV – 63.60 carat cushion-cut stone. Set into Queen Mary’s Crown.

Cullinan V – 18.80 carat pear-triangular cut stone. Set into Queen Mary’s Crown.

Cullinan VI – 11.50 carat marquise-cut stone. Set into a diamond and emerald necklace, Crown Jewels.

Cullinan VII – 8.80 carat marquise-cut stone. Set into a brooch alongside the Cullinan XIII, Crown Jewels.

Cullinan VIII – 6.80 carat oblong-cut stone. Set into Queen Mary’s Delhi Durbar parure.

Cullinan IX – 4.39 carat pear-cut stone. Set into the Cullinan IX ring, Crown Jewels.

A fair comparison? The Lucara Diamond vs. the Cullinan Diamond

As of January 2024, the Cullinan I diamond alone was purportedly valued at $430 million. However, there are notable differences in these discoveries aside from their size, and the context in which they were unearthed.

Location and Diamond Type: The Lucara Diamond hails from Botswana – featured in Lucara’s press release is a reference to Type IIa diamonds from this source. Type IIa diamonds are incredibly rare, with no measurable impurities such as nitrogen or boron. This lack of impurities results in an exceptional colour and clarity that has long been prized and intrinsically far more valuable than other colourless diamond types. Similarly, the Cullinan diamond was mined from a source known to yield Type IIa diamonds. In both cases, there is no confirmation of diamond type, merely speculation at this stage.

Cutting Techniques – Brilliantly recorded in Matthew Hart’s Diamond: A Journey to the Heart of an Obsession (2002), Joseph Asscher hand polished and faceted the Cullinan diamond, purporting “that when he prepared to cleave the largest diamond ever known … he had a doctor and nurse standing by and when he finally struck the diamond … he fainted dead away”. Advances in technology since the Cullinan’s time have ensured a CAD mapping of possible diamond cuts, and precision laser cutting that remove any chance of human error and also maximise the yield from a crystal.

Different times – It goes without saying that politics and customs are incredibly different nowadays, it is highly likely the diamond will be offered for sale and not be presented to a monarchy! Potential buyers of the stone include the LVMH group, who purchased a 1,758 carat stone from Lucara in 2019 for an undisclosed sum, or Laurence Graff of Graff Diamonds, who purchased the ‘Lesedi La Rona’ 1,109 carat stone from the same mine in 2017 for $53 million.

A contemporary comparison – the Graff ‘Lesedi La Rona’

Above: Laurence Graff inspecting the 1,109 carat Lesedi La Rona

Discovered in November 2015 at the same location as the 2,942 carat diamond in question, the ‘Lesedi La Rona’ weighed 1,109 carats and was named “Our Light” in the Tswana language. At the time, this remarkable find was also the world’s second largest gem-quality diamond to ever have been discovered. Similarly to the Cullinan, the Lesedi La Rona was initially offered for sale at Sothebys in 2016, failing to sell with a reserve of $70 million.

Nevertheless, the Lesedi La Rona piqued the interest of Laurence Graff of the prestigious eponymous Graff diamonds and was purchased in 2017 for $53 million. Speaking of his purchase, Graff said “This was the first time in over 100 years that the chance to cut such a historic stone had presented itself, which was tremendously exciting,..We had an immense duty to cut the very, very best diamond imaginable from the Lesedi La Rona. We had to do justice to its impeccable natural beauty.”

The planning for cutting the Lesedi La Rona was meticulous. The diamond was so large that the team at Graff could not analyse the stone with their existing equipment. A new scanner was built specifically for this stone with custom software to cater for its size and scale. After months of analysis, the plan for cutting and polishing the diamond was agreed, and the cutting of the stone could begin.

It took two years to cut the Lesedi La Rona. The diamond was cut with state-of-the-art lasers and required hundreds of hours for the table facet of the principal stone alone. Polished by Graff’s team, the Lesedi La Rona finally yielded 67 diamonds, including a double record-breaking 302.37 carat square emerald cut – the world’s largest square emerald cut diamond.

This principal diamond was named the Lesedi La Rona, and also holds the world’s record as the largest diamond with the highest colour and clarity ever certified by the GIA, with D colour, and “high clarity.” This stone was unveiled in November 2019, and is still owned by Laurence Graff

The Lesedi La Rona’s sister stone is also a record-breaking diamond. Named ‘The Infinity Diamond’ this stone is a 157.80 carat D colour heart-shaped diamond. It’s the world’s largest heart-shaped diamond of this quality.

Set into Graff’s Twombly tiara, the Infinity Diamond is still in the possession of Graff. The remaining 65 diamonds were offered for sale to Graff’s clientele in 2019, and prices for these pieces have not been published. Ranging from 1 to 26 carats, these stones all bear a GIA report number and ‘Lesedi La Rona’ laser inscription to the girdle.

The fate and value of the 2,942 carat Lucara diamond remains unclear. Speculations in the Financial Times have reported that the stone could be worth upwards of $40 million in today’s market. Who will be the buyer of the stone? And what record breaking and yield maximising configuration of faceted diamonds will be revealed? Perhaps the largest ever pear cut diamond (this would have to beat ‘The Rock’ at 228.31 carats – selling at Christies in 2019 for £17.7 million) or perhaps it will supersede the world records already set by the Lesedi La Rona, with a 303 carat + square emerald cut, or a 158 carat + heart cut. No further information has been released at this time, so we will wait to see the impressive yield that this crystal will produce!

Jewels from the ‘Earl of Abergavenny’ Shipwreck Spark New Fascination

Posted on September 18, 2024November 25, 2024 by Liz Bailey

The infamous Earl of Abergavenny cargo ship sunk in 1805 off the coast of Weymouth with William Wordsworth’s brother John Wordsworth as the captain of the vessel. Known as one of the UK’s most horrific maritime disasters, the wreck involved the loss of 250 lives. Reaching the headlines 219 years later, the wreckage has now been granted protected status as of 14^th August 2024.

The ship’s cargo, estimated at around £70,000 at the time, is said to be worth £7.5 million today. The Earl of Abergavenny was transporting over 60 chests of silver bullion as well as countless artefacts that were excavated in 1980 and now housed in the Portland Museum, Dorset. One such find was a single gold cufflink, bearing the initials J.W., and so widely assumed to be the possession of Captain John Wordsworth.

Titanic Relics – Waltham Pocket Watch Sets Auction Record

Captain John Wordsworth’s cufflink is not the only shipwrecked jewel to hit the headlines this year. In April, a gold pocket watch worn and recovered from Titanic passenger John Jacob Astor broke auction records with a hammer price of £900,000 at Henry Aldridge & Son. This auction result marks the highest price achieved for any single artefact recovered from the Titanic.

Waltham Pocket Watch — The 14ct gold Waltham pocket watch originally owned by John Jacob Astor. Sold in April 2024 for £1.1 million inclusive of fees. For reference, unassociated 14ct Waltham pocket watches are available to buy from £1,300-£6,500 on Chrono24.

The General Abbatucci ArtefactsThe staggering uplift in value for these remarkable survivors of unthinkable disasters is ever increasing. Historic Shipwreck sales include Christie’s 2009 sale of ‘The General Abbatucci Cargo’ which saw a sale total of over £280,000.

The General Abbatucci sank on 7 May 1869, sailing from Marseilles, France, to Civitavecchia in Italy. Believed to be carrying cargo destined for The Vatican, the wreck was found nearly 127 years later and much of the cargo sold through Christie’s South Kensington in a 270 lot sale featuring bullion, chains, watch cases and jewellery, mainly presented in group lots.

In the last couple of years, pieces from this remarkable 2009 sale have resurfaced, accompanied by their provenance and certificate of authenticity. Below is a fine Victorian watch chain, available to purchase from Bentley & Skinner for £7,750.

A Victorian gold watch chain from the General Abbatucci Shipwreck. Bentley & Skinner £7,750.

Two further lots to re-appear at auction in the last couple of years featured at Woolley & Wallis sales. These lots were catalogued together with their original lot numbers from the 2009 Christie’s sale, and can demonstrate a rise in value, even from an auction standpoint.

A mid-19th century gold cruciform pendant, set with a cushion-shaped diamond, the cross decorated with layered and textured gold ivy leaves, 2.9cm wide. Sold for £551. Previously part of a group lot 28 in The Abbatucci Cargo Sale 7th October 1997, selling for £748 (both figures inclusive of fees).

A mid-19th century gold necklace, of tubular construction, entwined in coiled wire, in yellow gold, 41cm long. Sold for £2,624. Previously lot 180 in The Abbatucci Cargo Sale 7th October 1997, selling for £863 (both figures inclusive of fees).

With the clear uplift in value and an enduring, timeless fascination with these surviving relics both in the auction and retail worlds, it will be highly interesting to see the long-term trajectory for these pieces. With such tales remaining at the forefront of the news this year, values and desirability of these rare historic pieces are set to rise even further, particularly for those items with clear provenance and traceability to historic sales such as the Abbatucci Cargo Sale. For an up-to-date auction valuation of your own treasures, do get in contact with our nationwide team of specialists.

To find out more about our jewellery valuation services, call us on 01883 722736 or read more here.