Valentine’s Day Luxury Gift Guide

Posted on February 4, 2026February 4, 2026 by Helen Doyle

Love is in the air, and this year, we’re taking romance to a whole new level! Whether you’re celebrating a long-term partner, a new flame, a friendship or yourself, our Valentine’s Luxury Gift Guide is here to help you find the wow factor.

Here is our selection of breathtaking pieces that do more than just dazzle; they are timeless investments that pair high-end elegance with lasting value.

Solange Azagury-Partridge

In the quiet, Victorian thoroughfares of West London sits a boutique that feels less like a traditional jeweller and more like a surrealist dreamscape. This is the home of Solange Azagury-Partridge, a designer who has spent over three decades proving that fine jewellery doesn’t have to be serious, but it must be spectacular.

From her cult-classic Hotlips rings to her tenure as the Creative Director of Boucheron, Solange has carved a niche as the “thinking woman’s jeweller.” Her work is defined by Chromance a term she coined to describe her deep, romantic obsession with colour.

Solange’s career didn’t start with a formal apprenticeship; it started with a kiss. In 1987, she designed her own engagement ring: a large, rough diamond perched precariously on a bold gold band. It was a rejection of the pristine aesthetic of the time.

By 1995, she launched her most famous creation: The Hotlips Ring, a plump, enamelled pout. The British Red version sits proudly in the V&A’s permanent collection.

A perfect valentines day gift, Hotlips by Solange offers these fabulous rings in silver and gold and of course vibrant colours. They would make the perfect Valentine’s Day gift.

Van Cleef & Arpels

VCA is legendary for its beautiful jewellery designs. The Frivole collection is the house’s modern floral masterpiece.

Launched in 2003, the Frivole line is a poetic tribute to nature, characterised by beautiful gem set adorned flowers with heart-shaped petals. Forget traditional flowers this year, the go to is VCA Frivole collection.

They also offer examples set with Pigeon-Blood Rubies & Emeralds, While the classic collection features diamonds, modern variations frequently come set in rose and yellow gold

This Frivole ring with 8 flowers featuring rubies and emeralds retails for £11,700.

Another classic, the Between the Finger rings by VCA, these rings feature two floral motifs that appear to “float” between the fingers, connected by a hidden band.

Graff

Not traditionally known for watches, Graff’s ladies’ timepieces represent the pinnacle of jewellery that also tell the time. Known as the “King of Diamonds,” Laurence Graff’s influence is evident in signature collections like the Butterfly, where marquise and pear-shaped diamonds are meticulously set to mimic fluttering wings, and the Spiral, which features hypnotic, concentric circles of pavé set stones.

For those seeking the ultimate in exclusivity, Graff’s High Jewellery Secret Watches such as the Princess Butterfly are fine jewellery timepieces. Functional and beautiful. Classic Butterfly Diamond and Ruby watch on an alligator skin strap retails for £132,000.

Rolex

The new Rolex Land-Dweller watch, unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025 is a sports model reminiscent of the 1970s Oyster quartz featuring a Flat Jubilee bracelet that flows seamlessly into a restyled, barrel-shaped Oyster case.

Inside, the Land-Dweller has a striking honeycomb motif dial and exceptionally slim profile of just 9.7 mm. Available in 36 mm and 40 mm sizes, the collection is offered in white Rolesor (steel and white gold), 18ct Everose gold, and 950 platinum with the signature ice-blue dial.

Hermès

Hermès handbags are the definitive benchmark of luxury with the Birkin and Kelly handmade by a single artisan using the house’s signature saddle-stitching technique, a process that can take up to 25 hours per bag. They are made from premium leathers like Togo and Epsom, or rare exotics such as Niloticus crocodile, these bags are widely considered as the most sort after fashion accessory and investment opportunity at the same time. Due to strictly controlled production and high global demand, most Hermès models not only retain their retail value but often appreciate on the secondary market.

With the Birkin and Kelly being very hard to get hold of, there are other designs available to purchase directly from the Hermès website but be quick they do have limited availability. At the time this article was written the Hermès Poche Cliguets handbag was available to purchase in Etoupe Swift calf skin leather with palladium hardware for £5,590.

The perfect Valentine’s gift deserves the perfect protection. Beyond the initial spark of the ‘big reveal,’ the most thoughtful gesture is ensuring your new assets are correctly insured. Whether it’s a rare timepiece, a designer handbag, or a work of art, Doerr Dallas Valuations offers professional valuation services to give you and your loved ones total security against the unexpected.

Valuation Trends and Risks to Know in 2026

Posted on January 28, 2026January 29, 2026 by Liz Bailey, Jenny Knott, Richard Fattorini, Stephanie Connell, Jonathan Horwich, Alastair Meiklejon and Helen Doyle

Valuation Trends are shifting as we move into 2026, shaped by changing collector behaviour, evolving tastes and ongoing volatility across global markets. From jewellery, watches and handbags to art, rare books, silver and collectables, understanding where values are moving and why has never been more important. In this article, our specialists share their insight into the key valuation trends to watch in 2026 and explain what they mean for owners, collectors and those responsible for ensuring assets are accurately insured.

Jewellery

Liz Bailey, Jewellery, Watch & Silver Specialist

“As we have seen in 2025, the price of gold has reached record breaking levels and I can see no slowing of this trend into 2026. With a near 60% price increase last year, it will be crucially important to maintain regular valuations. We would expect to see a stabilisation in the market for natural diamonds, particularly steady in round brilliants under 2ct, and price spikes continuing for elongated fancy shapes and unique cuts over 2ct. In the gemstone market, a continued and constant premium placed on natural, saturated and high-quality gemstones of a favourable origin, which may prove increasingly difficult to source on the international market. Antique, signed, and unique pieces to remain in high demand, and designer price hikes to only push replacement values for insurance. If I could urge clients one thing for their jewellery collection this year, please ensure that you have a comprehensive and up to date valuation that accounts for these market factors – inadequate cover is not a trend that we want to see in 2026!“

Collectibles & Memorabilia

Stephanie Connell, Senior Valuer & Collector Specialist

“With a new generation evident in the market, acquiring pieces coveted in their youth I anticipate continuing growth in modern collectables. The trend towards objects from the early 2000s is gaining momentum with record prices recently in sports trading cards, and movie memorabilia from this period. With 2026 being a World Cup year football memorabilia may also be one to watch.”

Rare Books & Comics

Richard Fattorini, Rare Books & Manuscripts, Historical Photographs and Maps Consultant

“In 2026 I expect the rare book market to remain resilient and quietly buoyant with steady growth rather than a speculative boom. Auction activity continues to expand, driven by online platforms and new online auction houses specialising in rare books and works on paper that have widened access for collectors. Top-tier works selling for £100,000+ with strong provenance, historical importance or exceptional condition are likely to hold or increase in value. By contrast, more ordinary collectible titles may see flatter prices. A younger, more diverse generation of buyers in the 35-50 age bracket is reshaping tastes, with increased interest in genre fiction, science and books that tell compelling stories rather than simply fitting a traditional canon.

In 2025 the global top 10 books and works on paper sold at auction were dominated by Americana and American sports cards, together with a first Superman comic from 1939, an 18th century Mughal manuscript of an epic based on the Shahnama, and one of four copies of William Blake’s Songs of Experience (1793).

The results demonstrate that there are buyers out there for the best items, and collecting has never been easier with so many online platforms. The challenge for booksellers and auctioneers in 2026, as always, is finding the great material to meet the demands of collectors.”

Luxury Handbags

Helen Doyle, Jewellery, Watch & Handbag Specialist

“In 2026, the resurgence of the tote is a defining trend. These large handbags have become essential for fashionistas who need a single bag that they can use for the gym, take to the office or on a weekend shopping trip. Chanel continues to offer a great variety of shopping totes, while the Louis Vuitton Neverfull remains a staple and is available in various sizes and designs. Other brands leading this movement are The Row and Saint Laurent, for those seeking ultimate luxury, the bold Hermes Birkin 40 is the standout choice for a high-end tote. These designs can be priced anywhere from £1500 up to £55,000.

2026 also sees a significant revival of old classics, as several iconic handbags from previous decades return to the spotlight. At Celine, Michael Rider has reintroduced Phoebe Philo’s classic Phantom handbag, adding a “smiley” zip to lean into its long-standing nickname. Likewise, we are seeing refreshed iterations of the Lady Dior and the Fendi Baguette, alongside a sharp rise in the popularity of the Chloé Paddington and the Balenciaga City bag.

In terms of aesthetics and materials, specific hardware and textures define the 2026 look. Chains have become a dominant feature across many collections; while Chanel has historically been central to this style, brands such as Ferragamo, Valentino, and Stella McCartney are now heavily incorporating chain details into their newest designs. Additionally, the tactile trends of 2025 are proving to have staying power. Shearling remains a popular choice for added texture, while the colour palette for the year is grounded in sophisticated neutral tones and rich brown suedes.”

Silver

Jenny Knott, Jewellery & Silver Specialist

“If you’ve been watching silver at all, it feels a little like observing the quiet underdog of the precious-metals family suddenly step into the spotlight. The reliable, understated sibling has started to make the headlines, although it’s not a completely straightforward story.

Over the past five years, silver has shifted from a relatively modest performer to one of the standout commodities in global markets. The spot price – the price at which sterling silver is traded – more than doubled between 2021 and 2025, reaching £50–£60 per ounce by the end of 2025 and then peaking at £73 per ounce last week. By historical standards, this is extraordinary, even when set against previous market surges.

There is, however, a more disconcerting side to the story. While silver’s financial prominence has grown, its role as a domestic commodity, for example, in flatware, tea sets and decorative pieces, has continued to weaken. These uses once formed a central part of silver’s cultural cachet but rising prices and changing tastes have led consumers to step back from buying some traditional silverware.

For those who already own silver, this shift has had dramatic consequences. The intrinsic value of household silver has risen sharply, although this is partly offset by dealers being forced to cut their margins. Put bluntly, a single silver table fork is now likely to contain around £140 in silver value alone.

Therefore, what was a relatively quiet market until around 2023 has become strikingly dynamic. The gains seen in 2025 and early 2026 would once have seemed almost unimaginable outside the gold market. The result is a fascinating intersection of macroeconomic forces and cultural change, making silver one of the most compelling commodities to watch.”

Watches

Alastair Meiklejon, Senior Valuer & Watch Specialist

“In 2026 the watch market has reached the ‘calmly tidying up’ era….prices are well off the post-pandemic peak (about 33% down), but they’ve stopped face-planting at a rate of knots and even crept up 5%(ish) over the last year, but this is only in some markets.

Many watch retailers January 2026 updates back that up – the “Overall Market Index rose +1.1% in December 2025, with Rolex +0.6%”not exactly fireworks, but a lot steadier than 2022–23 vibes when some people were crying into their watch boxes.

Where it still gets spicy is the ‘coloured dial tax’, especially on Rolex. For example, secondary market currently puts the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 (124300) at £6500 market vs £4750 retail, so still over list.
And the brighter variants are another level – the yellow dial is £12,500, while the celebration turquoise is £11,500 – so yes, the market’s cooled, but the right dial still makes people forget what retail means.”

Contemporary Art

Jonathan Horwich, Contemporary Art Specialist

“Looking ahead to 2026, you can expect a continued and growing focus on female artists at auction. This spans all periods, from contemporary practitioners through to Old Masters and 19th-century European painters. Demand is no longer confined to a single category, and this broader interest is already reflected in stronger and more consistent prices.

There is also sustained momentum behind African and regional African art. While figurative work has dominated in recent years, attention is shifting towards abstract painting. This is bringing a wave of new artists to market, supported by increased institutional and collector interest. Given the depth and quality of material available, this area is likely to remain a key growth sector, with valuation levels continuing to evolve as the market matures.”

Antique Furniture

Alastair Meiklejon, Senior Valuer & Watch Specialist

“In 2026, antique furniture is a simple equation – the headline pieces still go bananas, while the everyday stuff stays more price-sensitive. Last year gave us a perfect top end vs. normal world contrast – J.R.R. Tolkien’s Merton College desk made £330,200 at Christie’s which I wrote about not so long ago, and was pure provenance power. And in the broader furniture-as-trophy bracket, François-Xavier Lalanne’s Hippopotame Bar hit $31.4m at Sotheby’s in December 2025, whilst not exactly antique furniture, it does indicate that market changing and becoming just as important…

At the other side of the market, though, it’s much more selective.

Victorian sideboards, mixed-condition dining sets, and ‘perfectly nice’ brown case furniture can still be surprisingly attainable because buyers are picky….

Where people will stretch is for the right, unmolested examples – original surfaces, honest wear, good colour, and clean provenance. Major auction houses these days literally frame desirability around provenance and patina – and collectors are widely wary of heavy refinishing because it strips character and can dent value. So, clients should take note that actually, that stain from 50 years ago, might not have been as bad as imagined….”

With valuation trends moving quickly across multiple markets, regular professional valuations remain the simplest way to stay informed and properly protected. If you would like advice or need an updated valuation, get in touch with our team to arrange a valuation.

Under the Christmas Tree

Posted on December 18, 2025December 24, 2025 by Jenny Serra

What are our team hoping for this Christmas?

Rachel Doerr – Managing Director

“I was asked recently what you buy a girl who has everything! After some thought, I remembered meeting with the jewellery designer, Lotte Leigh Fine Jewellery who creates and designs jewellery completely unique and deeply personal, so when thinking of myself, I decided this would be the perfect gift. I was left jewellery by my late mother, and I would love to rework those pieces into something new that I would wear every day. It would be a wonderful way to keep her close, carry those memories and give them a new life in a way that feels truly my own. So, I cannot wait to sit down with Lottie to start my journey.”

David Dallas – Chief Executive

“I’ve spent all my adult life and some of my childhood loving John Constable. I have been lucky enough to own a few oil paintings by him, temporarily, but I’ve always had to sell them. This Christmas, what I really want, is a drawing by him that I can keep. He is quite prolific, carrying a large and a small sketchbook with him wherever he went even on honeymoon! So, they come up at auction quite often. He has what they used to call “a good pencil” in other words he can draw beautifully. Any rural scene by the great man would do. “I never saw an ugly thing in my life: for let the form of an object be what it may – light, shade, and perspective will always make it beautiful”, is what Constable once said and when he is the man recording that object in pencil on paper, it is true. The little drawing that came up at Woolley and Wallis in 2023 would do. £16,500 isn’t that much, dear mother-in-law!”

Aurélia Turrall – Jewellery Specialist

“Money does seem to always get in the way of getting the most exquisite jewellery. Seeing as this is not the case for this year’s Christmas presents, I would choose to have the grand nœud de corsage de l’Impératrice Eugénie, stolen at the Louvre on 19th October. How I hear you asking? Or firstly I’d place pay for the greatest, fearsome, most Talented detective: Inspector Jacques Clouseau to find the stolen jewel and catch the criminals (one is currently still on the loose). It is such a shame to think that this 19th Century jewel, which would have required hundreds of hours of work to complete, might have been broken into pieces, as I write this. In 1864, Eugénie decided to stop wearing the imposing jewel, made of gold and silver and measuring 22.2cm long, 10.5cm wide. It was then sold in 1887 (during a nine-day auction when the French government sold most of the Crown jewels, keeping only a few considered National Treasures) to Caroline Astor, and subsequently to the Duke of Westminster for his daughter Lady Lettice Grosvenor, bought by jeweller Ralph Esmerian in 1980, acquired by the Louvre in 2008… And finally stolen last month.

So, Inspector Clouseau, if there’s ever a good time to come out of Hollywood retirement, now would be it! The French government needs you, and so do I for my Christmas present wish to come true!”

Annabell Parry, Jewellery Specialist

“2025 has seen colour and craftsmanship become more sought after in a jewellery world of offerings increasingly with no soul. It was with utter delight I discovered Castro Smith and his beautiful, hand engraved jewels and signet rings. His award winning designs have been featured around the world but works quietly in the UK with skills often considered old-fashioned but to me they are beautiful and evoke the essence of true handcrafted devotional gifts. Please, please may I find the Rabbit and the Moon signet ring under the tree this year, only available to order from £2500.”

Ashley Innes, Asian Art Specialist

“If I could receive any gift this holiday season, I would choose an incredibly rare large ruby-ground sgraffiato yangcai “lotus” bottle vase that I enjoyed viewing at person at Sotheby’s New Bond Street earlier this autumn as part of Asian Art in London. This Qianlong-period porcelain vase knocked preauction estimates out of the ballpark in November, selling for 304,800 GBP, when it was only estimated to sell for 100,000 GBP – 200,000 GBP! I love the elegance of the yuhuchunping shape, a traditional Chinese form with a long, slender neck and a bulbous bottom. The vase employs the yangcai technique, a form of wucai technology reserved for foreign colors of the period. The sgraffiato, a carving through the top layer so that the next layer is visible, showcases the exquisite level of craftsmanship from the Imperial kilns at Jingdezhen. As my favorite color is pink, I would be delighted to find this in my stocking – but perhaps not hanging over the fireplace, given the vase’s delicate nature!”

Fiona Hamilton – Silver Specialist

“If I could wish for a dream gift this Christmas it would be a little patch of land on the North West coast of Scotland. Having spent family holidays there from the 1980s to the current day, it holds a special place in my heart. From Arisaig to Achiltibuie, the deserted beaches, turquoise water, and star-studded skies are truly magical. Personal experience shows that the best defence against the dreaded midgies is a beach fire and the famous four seasons in one hour should be embraced! A place to unwind away from daily life, often with no phone signal, it’s the perfect haven.”

Jonathan Horwich, Contemporary & Modern Art Specialist

“I would like to have this wonderful, tiny (11.3 x 23.5 cms) cloud study by one of the greatest English landscape artist of all time, John Constable (1776-1837). I came across Constable Cloud Studies in my first job in a West End Gallery many years ago now, we had three in stock and each one was a gem, I promised myself that one day I would own one. This one sold at auction for £453,600 on July 1st this year, so it may be a bit of a stretch for me just now , so it would be a very welcome surprise to find this one under the tree on Christmas morning!”

Katinka Monkman, Executive Assistant

“After spotting the Boodles Tennis Bracelet, I couldn’t help but think it would be the perfect Christmas gift. As someone who plays for a local Division 2 tennis team in Sussex, it feels like such a fitting piece — elegant, classic, and with just the right amount of sparkle to capture the spirit of the game. Since starting my new role at Doerr Dallas Valuations in April, I have developed an even greater appreciation for beautifully crafted jewellery, and this bracelet really stands out to me. It is timeless yet meaningful, and I can just imagine how special it would feel to wear it, both on and off the court.”

Kristin Panagiotou, Administration Manager

“Underneath my Christmas tree this year I would love to find the photographic print, Dairy Queen at Night from front, US 6, Iowa City, IA 1988, by American photographer Jim Dow. This image holds a special place in my heart. When I look at it, childhood memories of summer nights and walks to this specific ice cream parlour down the street with my family flood back into my mind. What I love about photography is how one simple image can evoke so many feelings and emotions, and this one fills me with so much happiness. While it doesn’t necessarily look the same, this ice cream shop is still there! Dependent upon the size, a limited edition print can be purchased from $3,000-$9,000. ”

Liz Bailey, Jewellery, Watch & Silver Specialist

“It is so hard to narrow down what I’d like under the tree this year – I’ve seen so many fabulous pieces in collections that have been added to my wishlist! One watch definitely remains, and having seen their 150th anniversary display at Dubai Watch Week I would simply love an Audemars Piguet Frosted Mini Royal Oak. The frosted effect is created through a hammering technique using the culet of a diamond, and these watches have been worn by icons such as Raye and Serena Williams. To add some sparkle to my jewellery collection, I’d certainly be on the lookout for a piece from the new Tiffany Bird on a Rock collection, reimagining the original 1965 design by Jean Schlumberger. I was fortunate enough to try on the Lovebirds ring, and it was indeed love at first sight. The watch costs a cool £56,600 and the ring a mere £32,200!”

Richard Fattorini, Rare Books & Manuscripts, Historical Photographs and Maps Consultant Specialist

“I have always admired the beauty and skill that goes into creating an illuminated manuscript, and this autumn I was thrilled to visit Chantilly to view an exhibition of one of the most famous and beautiful illuminated medieval manuscripts in the world, the Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry. This spectacular manuscript on parchment was created in the early 1400s for John, Duc de Berry, the brother of King Charles V of France, by Limbourg brothers Paul, Johann and Herman and used rare and expensive pigments, including lapis lazuli, and pure gold. A single illuminated page from this book would be worth millions, but other medieval illuminated manuscripts by lesser artists can be purchased for a few hundred pounds. This Christmas I would be overjoyed to receive an illuminated leaf which would let me connect with a world that valued slow craft, symbolism, and the power of storytelling. The calligraphy, colours, details and gold illumination invite contemplation, reminding one to slow down and appreciate artistry in its purest form. It would be a gift that blends beauty, scholarship, and wonder, something timeless in an increasingly digital world.”

Alastair Meiklejon, Senior Valuer

“Is a red octagonal box too obvious? Possibly. But then again, Who honestly cares, And this watch….this glorious, green-dialed, 18ct yellow-gold beauty, is not here for subtle nods and polite applause. It’s here to enter the room before you do. Cartier, frankly, have been on a quiet (and sometimes not-so-quiet) tear over the last few years, and this might just be one of the greats of the line. Let us remember: the Ballon Bleu was a hit the moment it landed. I know, because I sprinted out and bought one. The big one. The too big one. But here’s the thing, by the time I’d realised it was too big, I was already emotionally invested. Like a slightly impractical dog, or a Pelaton – You don’t return it; you adapt your life around it. And now? Cartier have gone and done this. A green dial in yellow gold that pops harder than champagne corks on the riviera. The price of £15,200 mean its only two bottles of house red off what could be deemed a ’sensible purchase’ and nothing says Christmas like gold and green…..honestly – look it up!”

Francesca Orme, Jewellery Specialist

“I have wanted one of these for a long time. These genius ‘Love Letters’ bracelets are one of Pragnell’s very clever inventions. It gives you the opportunity to create your own bracelet online if you can’t get to the showroom, by choosing the letters or words you would like, with the option of symbols such as a heart, in-between or next to…You can pave set with diamonds whichever links you would like too!.
I would put my twin boys names with a heart between that is pave set with diamonds.. These are so wearable that I don’t think I’d ever take it off!”

Jenny Knott, Silver Specialist

“On December 1st I tune my radio to Classic FM and immerse myself in Christmas music. I enjoy more recent Christmas tunes too, and although I have had enough of rocking around the Christmas tree long before Christmas day, I’ve never enough of the snow. Indeed, ‘Let it snow, let it snow let it snow’. So, to indulge myself this Christmas, my money no object Christmas present under the tree would be tickets to Vienna to hear Christmas music at the Hofburg Palace and something appropriate to wear for a snowy Christmas concert, perhaps this diamond and blue topaz snowflake sautoir by KiKi McDonough. It’s a snip at £9500, so let’s hope that it’ll be nestling somewhere amongst the pine needles.”

Helen Doyle, Jewellery, Handbag & Watch Specialist

“This Christmas I would love a Chanel 2.55 handbag under the tree. More than just an accessory, the Chanel 2.55 is a wearable piece of fashion history, with virtually every design detail carrying a personal connection to the life of its creator, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Unveiled in February 1955, the bag’s name is simply its birth certificate: 2 for the month and 55 for the year.
The bag’s revolutionary design was centred around the long shoulder chain, which was a fashion breakthrough that finally freed women’s hands.
Perhaps the most fascinating element is a secret that lies beneath the surface: a discreet zippered compartment hidden inside the front flap. Legend holds that Coco Chanel used this small, private pocket in her original bag to store her love letters, a quiet nod to her personal romantic history.”

Stephanie Connell, Senior Valuer & Collector Specialist

“Under the Christmas tree, if money were no object, I would like to discover something I would have dreamt of owning as a child, a Dinosaur! Sotheby’s recently sold a mounted Ceratosaurus skeleton – Ceratosaurus were a species carnivorous dinosaur, with a name referencing the slight horn between is nostrils. The example sold by Sotheby’s, was around 150 million years old. The skeleton was that of a juvenile. Money would really have to be no object – it fetched just over $30.5 million.”

Jenny Serra, Marketing Manager

“I was on the hunt recently for a new handbag, and not being of neutral tastes, I spotted this fabulous limited edition pink and red Epsom bag from Hermes. The classic shape but bold colour way would make it such a fun bag to use – and a definite conversation starter! Costing around £25,000 I’m pretty sure it’s beyond my husbands budget, but a girl can dream!”

The Smart Guide to Investment Worthy Christmas Gifts

Posted on December 10, 2025December 11, 2025 by Liz Bailey and Helen Doyle

Christmas gifts do not have to lose value the moment they are unwrapped. Some become worn, forgotten or replaced within a year. Others hold their ground and in some cases grow in value over time. This guide looks at investment worthy Christmas gifts that balance beauty with long term appeal. From jewellery and watches to silver and handbags, these are pieces chosen to be enjoyed now and valued well into the future.

Our Specialists Liz Bailey and Helen Doyle give their insight into where to spend your money for the best investment this festive season.

Liz Bailey - Jewellery, Silver & Watch Specialist

Old Cut Diamonds

The most talked-about engagement of the year has sparked a renewed interest in old cut diamonds. Taylor Swift’s 8-10ct old mine cut diamond ring by Kindred Lubeck has propelled these charming cuts into the limelight and demand, particularly for elongated old mine and European cuts has soared. I can see no slowing of this trend into 2026, with these stones expressing their own unique characteristics which are the antithesis to the ideal proportions and symmetry of the round brilliant cut.

Natural Diamonds

There seems to be a theme with my picks, however I would say that the present is a great time to buy natural diamonds, if you have a clear idea what you are looking for. The assimilation of lab-grown diamonds into the market (amongst other global factors) has of course had a dampening on the price of diamonds for the past few years. Alternative natural diamond products, such as ‘grey’ or ‘salt and pepper’ diamonds have been increasingly popular in the US in particular as an assured alternative to the lab grown stone. These heavily included gemstones are definitely not my recommendation. This year has seen some incredible fancy coloured diamonds sell at auction (including the Desert Rose pictured above – this sold for $8.8 million in December) and we can reasonably expect the demand and appreciation for these incredibly rare, naturally formed stones to only increase over time.

Pieces with Provenance

This year in particular has demonstrated the uplift in value for provenanced items. From Nancy Astor’s Cartier tiara selling at Bonhams in June for £889,400 inclusive of premium, to the Titanic couple’s pocket watch selling last month at Henry Aldridge & Son for £1.78 million, and the York Rose brooch, given to one of the Queen mother’s bridesmaids at her wedding in 1923, selling at Noonans for £15,000. In the age of technology and super swiping, the market is increasingly drawn to tangible, personal and entirely unique tokens of our history and heritage, as demonstrated by these record breaking results on the open market.

Independent Watches

Following fresh new talent in the watch space, with design and mechanically led independents is another way to support innovation and enhance your collection. Launches over the past five years from the likes of Toledano & Chan, Berneron, and Anoma have been produced in limited numbers, gained international recognition and waitlists, so it certainly pays to state your interest early. A great spotlight for new talent is the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize semi-finalist list, providing 20 new releases from exciting independents each year.

1970s Aesthetic Dress Watches

If this years’ well publicised launches of the Vacheron Constantin 222, Piaget Andy Warhol and the Rolex Land-Dweller are indicative of anything, it’s that the 1970’s sports-dress watch aesthetic is back. Reimagining iconic designs from this admittedly tumultuous time in fine watchmaking, this year has seen the return of the stylised yet functional dress watch, bold curved cases and eye-catching designs. Prudent and sartorial purchases would be original examples from the era such as the Vacheron Constantin 222 ref. 46003, and of course the early Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref 5402, or this year’s Land-Dweller models, particularly in the platinum or Everose gold.

Universal Genève

A brand to watch in the coming months of course is Universal Genève. This iconic heritage brand re-launched this year under Breitling’s ownership and has teased re-releases of much-loved vintage models. Gérald Genta’s time-only Polerouter has already been re-released, and admirers of the brand are looking forward to the possibility of a contemporary Tri-Compax, a full calendar chronograph and a Cabriolet, a reversible dress watch originally launched in the 1930s. Watches from the re-release, or exemplary vintage pieces are expected to rise with the rebirth of the brand – search for the ‘Nina Rindt’ Compax, or the 1940s Aero and Film-Compax models.

Helen Doyle - Jewellery, Handbag & Wristwatch Specialist

Hermes

As the holiday season draws near, the search for the truly unforgettable gift begins. While many presents offer fleeting joy, few possess the enduring allure, prestige, and tangible value of the Hermès Birkin bag. More than just an accessory, a Birkin is a profound statement a timeless masterpiece that serves as both the ultimate Christmas surprise and an exceptionally shrewd financial investment.

Picture the moment: unwrapping a gift to reveal the signature orange box, the anticipation building toward the iconic silhouette of a hand-stitched Birkin. Gifting a Hermès Birkin is not merely an act of generosity; it is the ultimate gesture of appreciation, cementing its status as a legendary Christmas morning reveal.

The bag’s appeal as a gift stems from its scarcity and heritage. The meticulous craftsmanship, involving a single artisan working for hours, results in a piece of art that transcends seasonal trends. Its classic, functional design ensures it will be cherished and utilised for generations. For the discerning recipient, a Birkin represents access to one of the world’s most exclusive clubs, symbolising success, sophistication, and impeccable taste.

While its aesthetic value is undeniable, the true magic of the Birkin lies in its remarkable performance as an investment. In an era where alternative assets are increasingly sought after, the Birkin has consistently proven its resilience and ability to appreciate.

Hermès strictly limits the production and sale of the Birkin, maintaining a powerful demand which ensures that the secondary market commands significant premiums. Due to its highly restrictive acquisition process from the boutique, the resale value of a Birkin often exceeds its retail price immediately after purchase.

The bag’s investment potential is dramatically highlighted by recent auction results. Bags with exceptional provenance, particularly those directly owned and used by the bag’s namesake, Jane Birkin, are currently driving the absolute top of the secondary market. With her original handbag selling for a record breaking $10.1 million USD at Sothebys in July this year.

And more recently another bag personally owned by the icon called the Birkin Voyageur sold for $2.86 million USD at auction in Abu Dhabi. The sale included a handwritten French inscription from Birkin that translates to: “My Birkin bag, my globetrotting companion.”

Here is an example of a Hermes Birkin 25 exceeding its retail price at auction.

Gucci

Staying with handbags another luxury accessory that increases its worth over time is the Gucci handbag.

Choosing a Christmas gift is often a desire-driven decision, but an investment purchase can also be made when it comes to Gucci. Known for their timeless classics and beautiful designs. Gucci’s strategy often involves diving deep into its rich archive reissuing iconic bags from the 1950s, 60s, and 90s, such as the Jackie 1961, Diana, and Horsebit 1955. These heritage reissues are instantly considered “forever pieces” that appeal across generations, ensuring they are perpetually in demand. This timeless approach, coupled with the brand’s high global visibility and instantly recognisable logos the GG monogram, the Horsebit, and the Web stripe ensures consistent demand. Furthermore, Gucci increases its retail prices often once or twice a year. Since 2024 some models have increased between 2-15%. They are also made of high-quality, durable materials, notably their proprietary GG Supreme canvas and robust textured leathers, which guarantees the item’s longevity and structural integrity over decades a crucial element for preserving value.

When selecting the perfect Gucci gift this Christmas, focus on models that celebrate the brand’s distinguished history rather than seasonal designs. The bags that consistently demonstrate the highest investment-grade performance are those rooted in the brand’s most recognisable heritage hardware and silhouettes. For example, the Gucci Jackie 1961, famed for its half-moon hobo shape and signature piston clasp, remains a top investment. Currently retailing for £3090.

Similarly, the structured Gucci Horsebit 1955 shoulder bag, featuring the iconic equestrian hardware, is also highly successful retailing for £2400.

A more distinctive choice, the Gucci Diana, known for its historical bamboo handles (often modernised with neon straps) retailing for £3270

Finally, the quilted GG Marmont and the canvas-based Ophidia lines offer slightly more accessible entry points, while still offering high brand recognition and durability. Retailing for £1170.

This Christmas, transcend the fleeting trends and make a statement with an investment-grade Gucci bag. It is a present that combines high style with financial sense, destined to be treasured for a lifetime.

Van Cleef and Arpels

A gift that is both beautiful and holds its value: a piece of high jewellery from Van Cleef & Arpels will not disappoint The French Maison is revered for its commitment to exquisite craftsmanship, poetic designs, and, most famously, its iconic symbols of luck. Some of their beautiful designs can make good investments that appreciate over time, making them the ultimate heirloom Christmas present.

The Iconic Alhambra Collection

The Alhambra collection is a great choice. The collection offers three main variations, each with strong investment potential:

Vintage Alhambra: These pieces remain faithful to the aesthetic of the first long necklace created in 1968. They feature medium-sized motifs bordered by the brand’s signature gold beading. The Vintage Alhambra pendant and five-motif bracelet are quintessential and highly reliable investment pieces. This bracelet retails for £6400.

Magic Alhambra: Synonymous with grandeur and opulence, this sub-collection features larger, asymmetrical clover motifs, often combining multiple ornamental stones. The newest additions include transformable long necklaces that can shift from a long sautoir to a shorter necklace or bracelet, adding versatility and value. This Magic mother of pearl and chalcedony long chain retails for £33,200.

Sweet Alhambra: This sub-collection features the iconic motifs in a delicate, miniature form. The smaller motifs offer a more accessible entry point to the brand and are often favoured for stacking or as a first piece of VCA jewellery. The Sweet Alhambra Watch blends ornamental stones and guilloché gold into a beautiful, bracelet-like composition. These diamond earring retail for £5650:

Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery is more than a jewel it’s a lasting investment in elegance, history, and the perennial charm of good luck.

Diamond jewellery

Choosing a diamond gift this Christmas is more nuanced than ever. The emergence of lab-grown diamonds has presented buyers with a fundamental choice: the historic, finite value of a mined stone versus the modern affordability and scale of a created one.

Both natural and lab-grown diamonds are, physically, and visually identical. The critical difference lies in their origin and, critically for a gift of value, their long-term investment potential.
Natural diamonds, formed deep within the Earth over billions of years, command a higher price due to their inherent rarity and the high cost of mining. They have a finite supply, which historically supports better value retention.

In contrast, lab-grown diamonds are created in high-tech laboratories over weeks and are significantly cheaper, often costing 60% to 85% less than their natural counterparts of comparable quality. This makes them ideal for maximising carat size and clarity within a set budget.

As production technology advances and supply increases, lab-grown diamonds generally depreciate quicker, offering lower initial resale value.

Therefore, if the primary goal is purchasing a stone with the strongest likelihood of retaining its worth over decades, a natural diamond may be the better choice.

Tiffany & Co. diamond pieces consistently and significantly outperform non-branded jewellery on the resale market, elevating them to a true investment gift. This exceptional performance is driven by the brand’s instant global recognition, which provides a powerful value premium. Many classic Tiffany engagement rings and diamond accessories have great investment potential. You can guarantee a certain quality of diamond when purchasing Tiffany for every single stone they must adhere to meticulous, in-house quality standards that often exceed the general industry norms.

Try to focus on timeless signature styles. Classics like the renowned Tiffany Setting solitaire ring, or iconic collections such as the T1 and the Lock.

Vintage or limited-edition designs from the Maison can be particularly appealing to collects. For the savvy buyer, remember to treat the packaging as part of the investment: retaining the original signature blue box, the diamond certificate, and the proof of purchase is essential, as these items enhance the piece’s credibility and significantly boost its resale appeal.

This Christmas, whether you choose a dazzling Tiffany Solitaire pendant or an architecturally stunning Elsa Peretti “By the Yard” diamond necklace, you are giving a gift that represents both enduring beauty and lasting financial worth.

Tiffany rings can retail anywhere from £1500 – £500,000 depending on the size of the diamond.

Boodles

For over 225 years, Boodles has stood as a beacon of British luxury, renowned for its innovative design, impeccable craftsmanship, and extraordinary diamonds. Choosing a piece from this respected, family-owned Maison as a Christmas gift offers more than just momentary sparkle; it represents a sound investment, and Boodles provides the rare opportunity to give a gift of both beauty and financial longevity.

Founded in Liverpool in 1798, Boodles maintains a strong connection to its British identity, It is known for its Exceptional Diamonds and Designs. Boodles sources “important and high-value white and fancy coloured diamonds” directly from major gem centres, investing heavily in its stock of top-tier stones.

They are celebrated for their distinctive designs, like the instantly recognisable Raindance ring, which features in the V&A’s permanent collection as an example of iconic British design, and the use of the rare Ashoka-cut diamond, ensure that Boodles pieces are unique, instantly identifiable, and consistently in demand.

This combination of superior materials and unique design is crucial for value retention.

This boodles ring retails for £30,300:

This Ashoka diamond bracelet retails for £78,800:

Choosing a Boodles gift this Christmas is a statement that honours tradition while embracing contemporary design. Whether selecting an elegant Boodles Diamond Tennis Bracelet, a roulette piece, the timeless Raindance design or a single eternity ring is a gift that promises both emotional joy on Christmas morning.

Antique jewellery

Antique jewellery is defined as pieces over 100 years old and offers a compelling dual proposition: it is a unique, exquisite Christmas present and a surprisingly shrewd investment that often appreciates over time. Antique pieces offer a rare chance to own a wearable piece of history.

The enduring value of antique jewellery is underpinned by several factors that new pieces cannot replicate. First is Rarity and Scarcity. Antique pieces were generally made in smaller production runs and often by hand using techniques no longer practised, such as intricate filigree work or specific hand-cut diamond styles (like the Old Mine or Rose cuts). This finite supply, combined with increasing collector demand, drives up market value.

Jewellery from highly coveted periods such as the delicate, platinum-heavy Edwardian era (1901–1915) or the bold, geometric Art Deco era (c. 1915–1938) is particularly sought after.

Giving an antique jewel is like passing on a chapter of history, allowing the recipient to weave their own narrative into the piece. It is the ultimate sustainable luxury, representing a commitment to recycling and slow fashion. Whether it’s a romantic, sentimental Victorian locket, a delicate Edwardian diamond pendant, or a vibrant, angular Art Deco ring featuring sapphires and emeralds, an antique piece guarantees the recipient will own something truly one-of-a-kind.

For those looking to invest wisely this holiday season, certain periods offer the best combination of availability and value retention:

Art Deco (1915–1938): Highly collectible. Look for geometric designs, platinum settings, and contrasting colours like onyx and jade.
Edwardian (1901–1915): Prized for its lightness and delicacy, often featuring platinum, diamonds, and pearl accents in lacy, openwork settings (filigree).
Victorian (1837–1901): Offers a wide range of styles from romantic (early period) to sentimental (lockets, cluster rings).

To ensure a wise investment, always source your piece from a trusted antique dealer who can provide accurate dating, assess condition, and verify the piece’s materials and craftsmanship. When you gift an antique jewel this Christmas, you are not just purchasing a luxury item; you are securing a timeless treasure that promises to grow in value and history for generations to come.
This diamond and cultured pearl choker retails for £28,750:

Luxury Designer handbags

Finding the perfect Christmas gift is often a balancing act between style, desire, and long-term value.

Few items master this trifecta quite like a classic luxury handbag. Far from being a mere fashion accessory, select designer bags from brands such as Chanel, and Louis Vuitton are solidified their status as genuine alternative investment assets.

Chanel bags are a similarly shrewd investment, primarily due to the brand’s aggressive pricing strategy.

Chanel regularly increases the retail prices of its core classic such as the Classic Flap Bag and the 2.55 Reissue. The Medium Classic Flap, for instance, has nearly doubled its retail price in less than a decade.

These consistent and often steep price hikes mean that a Chanel bag purchased today is inherently likely to be worth significantly more just a few years later. Gifting a classic Chanel is essentially locking in value for the recipient now before the next scheduled increase raises the entry price further. Other reliable investments include the Louis Vuitton Neverfull.

This Neverfull retails for £1,430:

The Chanel Classic retails for £8,850 although the jumbo is over £10,000:

To ensure your luxury gift retains its maximum investment potential, focus on iconic styles, classic colours (like black, beige, or gold), and durable materials (like Caviar leather or Monogram canvas).

Furthermore, the recipient should be advised to treat the bag with care, as a bag in pristine condition will always command the highest price. Crucially, the original documentation including the receipt, authenticity card, and dust bag must be preserved. These items are non-negotiable for serious collectors, as they inspire confidence and significantly enhance the bag’s credibility and value in the global resale market.

Gemstones

While diamonds dominate the classic jewellery market there is also great value in coloured gemstones.

Giving a gift of a fine ruby, sapphire, or emerald this Christmas provides not only a beautiful, deeply personal treasure but also a surprisingly strong financial asset.

Fine rubies, sapphires, and emeralds are often much rarer than diamonds of comparable quality, and this scarcity has driven explosive price growth in recent years. For instance, top-quality, untreated rubies particularly the prized “pigeon blood” red from historic Burmese mines can command a higher price per carat than the most expensive coloured diamonds. Similarly, rare varieties like Paraíba Tourmaline (known for its neon blue-green hue) and Alexandrite (famous for its colour-changing properties) have seen annual price increases of 20% or more, solidifying their position as highly sought-after investment stones.

Beyond the financial performance, coloured gemstones make an unparalleled Christmas gift because they possess inherent meaning and personality. They offer a vast palette of hues that can be precisely matched to a loved one’s taste, personal style, or even their birth month, adding a layer of thoughtful personalisation unmatched by a standard white diamond. For instance, gifting a Vivid Green Emerald (May’s birthstone) or a Kashmir Blue Sapphire (September) connects the item to the recipient’s identity and history.

Untreated Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald that have an intense, vivid colour make a great gift and investment as do certified, unheated Burmese Ruby or an unheated Kashmir Sapphires.

The Rare & Rising Stars such as Spinel which is often mistaken for a ruby, and Paraíba Tourmaline are experiencing rapid price appreciation due to limited supply and high collector interest, making them excellent choices.

This beautiful emerald ring retails for £80,000:

If you need any help valuing your luxury items this Christmas, After all, what’s the point of owning a breathtaking timepiece or a magnificent piece of art if the thought of loss keeps you from truly celebrating it?

Think of a professional, up-to-date valuation as the ultimate peace-of-mind package. It’s not just a dusty document; it’s the golden ticket that guarantees your favourite possessions, the sparkle in your safe and the masterpieces on your walls, are truly protected. When life throws a curveball (or an unexpected calamity!), knowing you have air-tight, agreed-upon coverage means you can quickly move past the stress and reintroduce that joy back into your collection.

So, go ahead and uncork the champagne! By taking this simple, responsible step, you’re not just protecting an asset; you’re future-proofing your happiness and ensuring that the spectacular stories and craftsmanship embodied by your luxury items will continue, no matter what. Celebrate your taste, celebrate your collection, and celebrate the fact that you’ve got them perfectly covered!

Why handbags should form part of your insurance valuation

Posted on September 18, 2025September 18, 2025 by Helen Doyle

It is a frequent occurrence for me as a Handbag specialist working for Doerr Dallas Valuations to travel to a job with the expectation of valuing 20 handbags, only to discover there are 200, so why do these appreciating assets with great investment potential get overlooked by their owners when it comes to insurance? While assets such as diamonds, jewellery and watches are commonly itemised, handbags are, often disregarded. Such oversights can prove disastrous in unforeseen circumstances, and given current market trends, individuals may be astounded by the significant appreciation in these assets value.

The world of exclusive handbags is made up of many brands often renowned for their unparalleled craftsmanship, heritage, and scarcity. At the pinnacle is Hermès, with its iconic Birkin and Kelly bags being the epitome of luxury, often having extensive waiting lists and achieving astronomical prices on the resale market due to their limited availability and meticulous handcrafting. Chanel follows closely, celebrated for its timeless quilted designs like the Classic Flap, which embody enduring elegance and sophistication. Louis Vuitton stands out with its rich history in trunk-making and its globally recognised monogrammed canvas, producing highly coveted bags like the Neverfull and Speedy. We can’t discuss designer handbags without mentioning Dior, famed for its Lady Dior and Saddle bags, and Gucci, known for its distinctive motifs and popular styles like the Jackie bag. Not forgetting Prada, with its sleek and minimalist designs, Saint Laurent, recognised for its modern aesthetic and the Sac De Jour, Fendi and its iconic Baguette, Loewe for its innovative and artisanal leather goods, and Bottega Veneta, celebrated for its distinctive Intrecciato weave and understated luxury. Goyard the Parisian trunk maker with its iconic Goyardine canvas and finally The Row founded in 2006 by Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen, known for its minimalist design and often lacking any visible branding or hardware. Of course, the list continues however these brands are popular examples which collectively represent the ultimate in exclusivity, artistry, and investment in the realm of high-end handbags.

There are a few things which also contribute to the value of a designer handbag and one of those is the skin. Popular leathers used by Dior and Hermès include smooth calfskin. A more durable grained calfskin used by Chanel and referred to as Caviar is a popular choice for a Classic whilst Louis Vuitton’s Epi leather is also very popular for a Speedy. Hermès also use pebbled options called Togo and Clemence. Prada’s favours scratch-resistant Saffiano. Let’s not forget the soft supple lambskin used often by Chanel and Dior. It may be personal preference; some leathers can be more popular than others, selling out quicker. There is however, when it comes to value, a clear leader in this race. Handbags made of exotic skins seem to appreciate at a greater rate than others. Prized for their distinctive textures, inherent rarity, and the unparalleled craftsmanship required to work with them. Materials such as crocodile and alligator are among the most coveted and are distinguished by their unique scale patterns and available in various finishes from high-gloss to matte. The rarest and most expensive Hermès Birkin and Kelly are often made of exotic leathers. The Hermès Himalaya, made of niloticus crocodile hide, sold at auction in 2022 for just over $450,000! Making it one of the most expensive handbags to ever go through auction. Another example is Ostrich leather, instantly recognisable by its characteristic quill marks, offering a durable yet supple option that develops a rich patina over time, also a staple in Hermès’s exclusive collections. Furthermore, lizard skins present a more delicate, intricate scale pattern, often favoured for smaller, exquisitely detailed bags, while python and other snake skins provide striking natural patterns and a distinctive tactile feel, frequently incorporated by brands like Gucci and Fendi to add an element of bold, exotic allure.

Here is the Hermes Himalayan which sold at Sothebys in 2022:

Each brand come in a vast array of styles, each serving different purposes and aesthetics, reflecting both timeless elegance and contemporary trends. The foundational styles include the tote bag, shopper, crossbody, top handle handbags, and clutches to name a few. The shoulder bag is a classic, designed to hang from the shoulder with a single strap, varying greatly in size and structure, from Chanel’s iconic Classic Flap to Fendi’s Baguette, which is often more compact. Crossbody bags feature a long strap worn across the body, offering hands-free convenience and security, typically smaller in size and popular for casual outings. Top-handle bags, such as the Hermès Kelly or Dior Lady Dior, are characterized by a rigid handle at the top, exuding sophistication and often requiring a more formal carry. For evening wear, clutches are small, strapless bags held in the hand, while minaudieres are even smaller, often rigid and highly embellished, designed for just the essentials. More unique styles include the hobo bag, known for its slouchy, crescent shape and soft construction, and the backpack, which has been elevated to luxury status by designers like Louis Vuitton and Gucci.

Here is a Gucci Jackie 1961 from the Gucci website retailing for £2820:

Here is a Louis Vuitton Alma from the Louis Vuitton website retailing for £2750:

Here is a The Row from The Row website retailing for £5190:

With the rise in the handbag market, which by 2034 is estimated to be worth 60 billion dollars, also sadly comes a rise in reported thefts. Some people are looking to track their handbags using Apple Air Tags and Bluetooth devices. The market for this is still relatively young. Although tracking your precious Birkin may be hard, there are many more experts out there to help you stay clear of any fakes.

So how do I know what I am purchasing is real?

Authenticating a designer handbag requires a keen eye and knowledge of the brand’s specific characteristics, as counterfeiters become increasingly sophisticated. While no single factor is definitive, a combination of observations can help determine a bag’s authenticity.

As experts in handbags, we will look at the craftsmanship and quality. Authentic designer bags are meticulously made and go through stringent checks before being able to leave the factory.

We look very closely at the level of stitching, there should be no loose threads, frayed edges, or inconsistent spacing. There certainly shouldn’t be any sign of glue. Hardware (zippers, clasps, buckles, feet) should feel substantial and high-quality, often engraved with the brand’s logo in a precise, clear manner. The plating should be even and not chipped or tarnished. Zippers should glide smoothly without snagging.

Chanel Stitching:

We also pay close attention to the materials used. Genuine designer bags utilise premium leathers (calfskin, lambskin, exotic skins) or high-grade canvases that feel luxurious, have a specific texture, and often a unique scent. Counterfeit bags often use cheaper, synthetic materials that feel rigid, plasticky, or look overly shiny, and may have a chemical smell. For bags with monograms, like Louis Vuitton or Goyard, inspect the pattern alignment; it should typically be symmetrical and continuous across seams, with logos often intentionally cut off at specific points to maintain consistency.

We scrutinise the brand’s markings. This includes examining the logo placement, font, and spacing, both on the exterior and interior. Check for specific serial numbers, date codes, or authenticity cards, and understand where they should be located and what format they should follow for that particular brand and model. For example, Chanel bags have serial numbers that match a sticker inside and an authenticity card, while Louis Vuitton uses date codes. Hermès bags often have blind stamps indicating the year and artisan. Research the specific model you’re interested in, as these details vary widely by brand, collection, and even production year.

Consider the seller and price. If the price seems too good to be true, it almost certainly is. Authentic designer bags rarely come with significant discounts outside of authorised sales. Reputable sellers, whether boutiques, authorised retailers, or trusted pre-owned platforms, offer guarantees of authenticity. Be wary of sellers who cannot provide original receipts, dust bags, or boxes, or who refuse to provide detailed photos. While these accessories can also be faked, their absence is a red flag. Consulting with an expert is often the most reliable way to confirm a bag’s legitimacy, especially for high-value purchases.

The resale market for designer handbags has undergone a dramatic transformation in the last decade, shifting from a niche, somewhat stigmatised sector to a booming, mainstream industry. This evolution is driven by several key factors, profoundly impacting prices.

Here is an example of Hermes selling for more than their retail prices at auction

In the last decade there has been a huge increase in dedicated online resale platforms and auctions selling designer items. At the beginning of my career a handbag being offered at auction would have been jammed in a miscellaneous section in-between the medals and silver, whereas now specific designer auctions dominate multimillion pound auctions every year. There are better experts in the field with professional authentication services, high-quality photography, and streamlined selling processes, significantly mitigating concerns about counterfeits and making it easier for both buyers and sellers to participate. This increased trust and convenience have normalised the idea of buying and selling pre-owned luxury, expanding the market to a wider demographic.

Examples of changes in the resell market over time with a Hermes Kelly selling at Christies in 2007 for £400 and in 2023 selling at Bonhams for £7650:

Sustainability has also become a powerful driving force. As consumers, particularly Gen Z and Millennials, become more eco-conscious, the concept of circular fashion – extending the lifecycle of goods – has gained immense traction. Purchasing a pre-owned designer bag aligns with sustainable values, reducing demand for new production and minimizing environmental impact, making resale an attractive, guilt-free option for luxury consumption.

Finally, and perhaps most crucially, the escalating retail prices of new designer bags and often extensive waiting lists or difficulty in obtaining a bag at retail have pushed many consumers towards the resale market. Iconic styles from brands like Chanel and Hermès have seen significant, often biannual, price hikes. For instance, some Chanel Classic Flap bags have more than doubled in price in less than a decade.

Furthermore, for highly coveted models such as the Chanel Classic and Hermès Kelly and Birkin resale prices have soared, often appreciating significantly beyond their original retail cost, effectively making them investment assets. Reports show some designer handbag models have seen valuation spikes of up to 83% over the past 10 years, with Hermès Kelly bags increasing by 129% and Chanel Classic Flap bags by 132% in value. This phenomenon is particularly true for limited editions or bags with long waiting lists.

So, If you own a collection of handbags but lack a professional valuation, your bags may not be accurately valued or insured. It’s not enough to simply consider the retail price. If you needed to replace a bag, you’d likely have to purchase it on the secondary market, where its cost could be significantly higher than the retail price.

Birkin No.1: Jane’s Own Handbag Goes Under the Hammer

Posted on July 10, 2025August 13, 2025 by Helen Doyle

Jane Birkin’s original Birkin bag, a legendary prototype that sparked the creation of one of the world’s most iconic and coveted handbags, is currently being sold at Sotheby’s in Paris.

This historic piece, distinguishable by unique features like its attached shoulder strap and “J.B.” stamp, was designed for Birkin in 1984 after a chance encounter. Having been used by Birkin for nearly a decade and previously auctioned for charity in 1994, it has since been owned by a private collector and exhibited in prestigious museums. Now, as the highlight of Sotheby’s “Fashion Icons” sale running from 26th June to 10th July, this black leather artifact, still bearing traces of its storied past, including humanitarian stickers and even cat bite marks, is poised to fetch a significant sum, potentially setting a new record for a Birkin bag at auction.

This isn’t just any Birkin; it’s the very first one ever made, custom-designed for Jane herself and it boasts seven unique design elements that you won’t find in any other Birkin bag, making this prototype truly a unique buy.

So, let’s start with how it came about. In 1984, Jane Birkin found herself on a flight from Paris to London, seated next to Jean-Louis Dumas, the then chief executive of Hermès. Birkin was struggling with her existing handbag – a wicker basket – whose contents had spilled across the aisle. She expressed her frustration to Dumas, lamenting the difficulty of finding a stylish yet functional bag large enough to hold all her essentials, especially baby bottles (she had her daughter Lou Doillon at the time). Dumas, ever the visionary, was intrigued by her predicament. He listened intently as Birkin described her ideal bag: something softer than a rigid briefcase, but still substantial enough to be practical for everyday use. He then sketched a design on the spot, reportedly on the back of an airplane sickness bag – a rectangular, supple holdall with a distinctive flap and clochette. Thus, the concept for the Birkin bag was born.

It’s not the first time one of Jane Birkin’s Hermes Handbags has been sold at auction, in 2021 at Bonham’s her Birkin 35 in Togo sold for £119,000, five times its presale estimate!

The sale of Jane Birkin’s Original Birkin is slightly more significant in that it’s the very first one ever made, custom-designed for Jane herself, based on her ideas and it boasts seven unique design elements that you won’t find in any other Birkin bag, making this prototype truly a unique buy.

Shoulder strap

Perhaps the most striking detail of the bag is its integrated shoulder strap. This wasn’t just a design choice; it’s a feature that was never replicated in any commercially produced Birkin. Though Hermès later offered a limited edition with a detachable strap in the 1990s, Jane’s original stands alone as the only Birkin to boast a fixed, non-removable shoulder strap.

Size

Breaking from the standard 40 and 35 sizes of the Hermès Birkins, Jane’s Original Birkin offered a distinct hybrid design. It ingeniously combined the sleek width and height of a Birkin 35 with the more spacious depth of a Birkin 40, another truly unique specification.

Hardware

Initially, it featured gilded brass hardware. This early detail evolved when the Birkin officially launched, moving to gold-plated hardware distinguished by a check mark stamp. As the Birkin line matured, Hermès diversified its hardware choices, eventually offering palladium, rose gold, and other finishes.

Rings / Pontet

Another unique detail is its closed metal rings which the leather straps thread through to close the bag, this is reminiscent of the Hermès Sac Haut à Courroies (HAC). In contrast, early commercial Birkin’s, introduced until the early 1990s, featured rings open at the bottom. Today’s Birkin bags now display rings that are open at the top.

Studs and zippers

Hers features notably smaller bottom studs than those found on later production bags. Additionally, its zippers were sourced from Éclair, a detail unique to this prototype. In the 1990s, Hermès partnered with Riri, who remains the exclusive zipper manufacturer for all Birkin bags today.

Initials

More than just an accessory, it was a deeply personal extension of herself, proudly marked with her “J.B.” initials on the front flap. It quickly became her constant companion, often cradled close in her arms as she took it everywhere. The bag’s well-loved condition eloquently speaks to years of dedicated use by the iconic actress and singer, embodying her inimitable style and spirit.

And finally, a rather quirky element, Jane Birkin preferred natural, well-maintained nails over polished fake nails. Ever practical, she kept a nail clipper readily accessible, tethered to a chain inside her Birkin and hanging from the shoulder strap’s base, ensuring her nails were always perfectly trimmed.

This prototype was more than just a fashion statement; it became inseparable from Jane herself. She carried it daily for nearly a decade, and its well-worn condition reflects her life on the move. Her Birkin served not only as a functional accessory but also as a canvas for her activism. Jane famously adorned it with stickers supporting Médecins du Monde and UNICEF, transforming the luxury handbag into a powerful symbol of her humanitarian efforts.

The impending sale of Jane Birkin’s original Birkin prototype at Sotheby’s is poised to significantly impact the broader Hermès market. By potentially fetching a record-breaking sum, this historic auction will not only set a new benchmark for bags with unparalleled provenance but also likely elevate the perceived value and desirability of all Birkin bags, from new releases to vintage models, across the primary and secondary markets. This event powerfully reinforces Hermès’ narrative as the epitome of luxury, craftsmanship, and timeless investment, further solidifying the Birkin’s status as the most coveted handbag in the world and intensifying collector interest in rare and unique pieces.

Update! The Birkin sold at auction for an incredible £7.4m, becoming the most valuable handbag ever sold at auction.

The Perfect Jewellery Gift for Valentine’s Day: Iconic Pieces They’ll Love

Posted on February 5, 2025August 13, 2025 by Helen Doyle

Valentine’s Day is celebrated annually on 14th February and has a surprisingly complex and layered history, blending ancient Roman traditions with Christian beliefs and medieval romance.

By the Victorian era, Valentine’s Day became a widely celebrated occasion, with flowers becoming common traditions. Today, Valentine’s Day is a global holiday expressing love and affection through various gestures and celebrations. There are also variations of the holiday including Galentine’s when one can celebrate friendships.

However you choose to celebrate, there is no getting away from the fact that it is fast approaching. With that in mind I am here to provide you with some expert guidance on how to choose the best items of jewellery this Valentine’s, for the one you love.

Tiffany & Co.

Arguably the most romantic of jewellers in the world, we couldn’t write about Valentine’s Day without mentioning Tiffany & Co., particularly a Tiffany & Co. engagement ring.

In 1887, Charles Lewis Tiffany, founder of Tiffany and Co., acquired an exceptional fancy yellow diamond from a mine in South Africa and it is known as The Tiffany diamond. It has been displayed in various settings throughout its history, with its most notable appearance as a pendant on a diamond necklace worn by Audrey Hepburn during a promotion of Breakfast at Tiffany’s in 1961.

The diamond, originally weighing 287.42 carats in its rough form, was sent to Paris where Tiffany’s chief gemmologist, Dr. George Frederick Kunz, cut the fancy yellow diamond into a beautiful, brilliant cushion-cut. It was here where Tiffany’s remarkable association with exquisite diamonds began.

Nowadays Tiffany & Co. is known to produce the most iconic engagement rings in the world, with the most popular style being The Tiffany Setting, distinguished by its 6 prongs/claws. This arrangement elevates the diamond well above the band allowing maximum light to enter the stone from all angles, therefore enhancing the diamond’s natural brilliance and sparkle and minimizing the amount of metal covering the stone. It is also held on a simple plain band ensuring that the diamond remains the centrepiece. Sales of the Tiffany engagement ring equate for 26% of their total sales. This remarkable success can be attributed to the iconic status of the brand, particularly the legendary Tiffany Setting introduced in 1886.

The price of a Tiffany Setting ring ranges anywhere from a few thousand up to six figure sums depending on the quality of the diamond.

The 1.65ct diamond single stone ring above has an insurance value of £75,000

Cartier Love bracelet

Nothing says love like a Cartier love bracelet. Created in 1969 by Italian jewellery designer Aldo Cipullo for Cartier, the bracelet was born as a unisex ‘modern handcuff’ with Cartier making the radical decision to leave the functional or decorative screws visible.

Its oval shape means it sits tight around the wearer’s wrist, and its physically screwed on to signify the permanence of true love, since two people are needed to secure the screws. The Love bracelet has become a symbol of love and commitment due to this design.

Today the bracelet is just as popular and it is rumoured that New York hospitals keep mini Love screwdrivers on the wards, in case they need to remove the bracelet in an emergency.

Its longevity and success is down to the design, according to Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s director of image, style and heritage. “For me, the Love bracelet is a success worldwide since it was created because of a combination of many different dimensions – first design, and second, symbolism. The design is linked to its meaning, because the screw, is the meaning of the object and the symbolic value is immediately visible through the very simple idea,” he explains. “The Love bracelet has become a permanent staple in modern style.”

Nowadays, the Cartier Love bracelet is seen on the wrists of many famous celebrities, including the Duke and Duchess of Sussex sporting matching Love bracelets on the cover of TIME magazine in 2020, while Meghan has been spotted wearing hers on numerous occasions over the years.

This year Cartier have released a brand-new Love Bracelet with a width of 4.8mm it the medium size with a slimmer and thicker versions available. This new version has an insurance value of £5,850.

Van Cleef and Aprels Alhambra

The Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra collection is seen as a symbol of enduring femininity, luck and love. It was in 1968 when the brand’s designers were captivated by the four-leaf clover motif and incorporating Art Deco influences, they created the iconic Alhambra pendant, with the initial design featuring a stylised quatrefoil shape set with mother-of-pearl.

It quickly gained popularity and over the years, the collection has expanded to encompass various interpretations of the Alhambra theme: bracelets, necklaces, earrings, rings and even watches, all adorned with gemstones and precious metals like mother-of-pearl, onyx, carnelian, turquoise, and diamonds.

De Beers Talisman

The De Beers Talisman collection is a line of fine jewellery that prominently features rough diamonds, highlighting their raw beauty by juxtaposing them with polished diamonds, creating a unique aesthetic that celebrates the natural, unrefined quality of rough stones, while still showcasing De Beers’ expertise in diamond cutting and setting.

The collection often utilises their “serti poinçon” technique to encapsulate the rough diamonds in the metal, giving them a distinct appearance.

The unisex collection is enjoyed by men and women.

Ruby

Rubies have been treasured throughout history for their beauty and symbolic meaning of passion, love, power, protection, and good luck. They feature prominently in royal crowns, ancient artifacts, and works of art. Fine rubies are gemstones prized for their vibrant red hue, intense brilliance, and enduring beauty.

They belong to the corundum mineral family, which also includes sapphires. Their mesmerizing red colour comes from trace amounts of chromium in their chemical structure. The most desirable rubies exhibit a vivid “pigeon’s blood” red – a rich, saturated hue with a hint of blue undertones. Other shades include purplish-red, orangish-red, and brownish-red, but the “pigeon’s blood” remains the rarest and most sought-after. It is the colour, clarity and origin which can contribute to a rubies value along with a lack of any lab treatment. Large fine natural examples with good colour can command very high prices.

Locations, like Myanmar (Burma), Madagascar, and Mozambique, are known for their exceptional quality.

No matter what gift you give or recieve this Valentine’s Day, ensure that you get it accurately valued for insurance purposes by calling us on 01883 722736 or emailing us on [email protected].

Under the Tree: What our team are hoping for this Christmas

Posted on December 18, 2024December 2, 2025 by Rachel Doerr

We’ve asked our fabulous team of valuers and admin staff, what they would like to find under the christmas tree if money were no object. Find out what they picked below…

Rachel Doerr, Managing Director

“After a visit to Boodles in Knightsbridge, I couldn’t stop thinking about this Knot White Gold Diamond Ring – it really caught my eye. The design is just stunning, and the diamonds have such a gorgeous sparkle. It’s the kind of piece that feels timeless, and I’d love to find it under the tree. Another thing I’d be happy with is a pair of single-stone diamond earrings. They’re simple, classic, and would go with pretty much anything. And if I’m being really wishful, I’d also be thrilled with two black labrador puppies. They’d bring so much joy and energy to the house – definitely the best kind of Christmas surprise!”

David Dallas, Old Master Specialist

“I have taken this question rather literally! Dressing the Christmas tree with the children and now grandchildren is a seasonal tradition not only in the Dallas household, but almost everywhere in the Christian world.
Whenever I am in New York in December, I go to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, where there is a 20ft Christmas tree underneath which is grouped a nativity scene made of beautiful 18th Century Neapolitan Creche Figures and animals, which have been loaned by Loretta Howard and her family since 1957.
I’m not sure if one could ever find figures the quality of Loretta Howard’s, but even 19th Century Crib Figures can be in excess of £600 each, so they would cost a small fortune. Please be generous Santa!”

Alastair Meiklejon, Senior Valuer

‘When Christmas comes each year it is a time for not only giving presents, but writing cards and getting in touch with people that you may not have spoken to throughout the year – whilst modern times dictate that you can email, or message – there is still something special about receiving a letter from a loved one, and what better way to do it than with a Montblanc pen. Whilst many people look at the ultra valuable fountain pens that they are well known for – I would opt for the entry level roller ball. With all the style and class of the bigger relations, but with a fraction of the cost”

Ben Hanly, Impressionist, Post-War & Contemporary Art Specialist

Alas, what I really, really want under the tree this Christmas is not going to happen…
Although I am a picture man through and through, what people might not know, is that I adore antiquities and early sculpture…. I suppose as dark secrets go, it’s not that bad!
What I saw in an auction in November was a superb Khmer stone figure of a standing Goddess from Cambodia, dated to the 11th-12th AD – estimated at £5,000-8,000. I know this is not a small amount of money (it’s Christmas so who cares about reality!) – but the sculpture was amazing, and a perfect example of art from this period when the Cambodian civilisation was at its peak (anyone been to Angkor Wat?).
The sculpture is so simple and elegant, and the condition is excellent – discounting the missing arms and head! Unfortunately, I was not the only one with good taste – the work was bought by someone else with more money than myself for £8,000 plus fees. All I can hope for is that the buyer was in fact my wife who bought it as my surprise Christmas treat! Fingers crossed!

Jonathan Horwich, Modern & Contemporary Art Specialist

“I would like to see a watercolour or two by Eric Ravilious (British, 1903-1942) under the tree, his work is sublime and uniquely English, his skill with watercolour is second to none and he faithfully follows in the footsteps of the great Masters of 19th Century watercolour painting tradition such as JMW Turner – Around £80 to 120,000 for something like this…”

Jenny Knott, Silver & Jewellery Specialist

“I have always loved Christmas and all the traditions that go with it. When I first worked at Bonhams Knightsbridge fresh out of university and earned a pittance, I would cross the road to Harrods once a week and buy a single decoration from their Christmas shop. Since then, I have bought Christmas tree decorations from all over the world and clever Father Christmas has given my children a decoration every year since they were born, so that they now have enough to decorate Christmas trees of their own. I would love therefore to have another decoration to add to my collection, perhaps something from the Georg Jensen range, always stylish and classy. The Scandinavians really do know how to do Christmas. However, if I am really allowed to indulge myself, I would love a delicate Edwardian natural pearl and diamond necklace. Something that could be worn everyday or with evening dress. This would give me great joy, transcend the vagaries of passing fashion and be something to pass on to my daughter in due course. I’ll have to wait and see if I’ve been naughty or nice and what Father Christmas has in store for me!”

Annabell Parry, Jewellery Specialist

“They are a variation on the classic chandelier earrings but were popular in the 1800’s and often have rose cut, old mine cut and old European cut diamonds which were cut for candlelight and worn by beautiful wealthy women who had daytime and nighttime versions. Nowadays I would happily settle with a pair glittering in the winter evenings at a snug private dinner.
Surviving pairs of these earrings are rare as they were so decadent they have often been broken down during tough times. Therefore, because of their rarity, the value of a good pair is considerable so should any ever come up at auction there is always fierce international bidding and could be argued to be a savvy purchase and investment. I’ve sourced my ball gown, carriage and Prince just waiting for the finishing touch …..at a rough guess £80 – £100k”

Aurélia Turrall, Jewellery Specialist

“I’d like to find a diamond-set Trinity ring by Cartier. Cartier’s reputation needs no explaining. Their craftmanship remains unique, stylish and guarantees longevity. The Trinity ring is the perfect gift as it comprises the three gold colours, ready to suit any skin tone, and the diamonds add sparkle which is what Christmas is all about when it comes to the ladies’ gifts! It is ingenious of the brand to offer this ring in so many different options. The ring that I would like only has one band pavé-set with diamonds, and can be small or classic.”

Francesca Orme, Jewellery Specialist

“I would love to see a small wrapped parcel with a red box!!! And inside this striking incredible ring by Cartier. It’s not very old- 1970’s but I just love the design and how wearable it is! It makes a real statement but the fact that it’s made up of lots of small graduated pieces, with lapis lazuli floral top and diamond highlights, makes it delicate at the same time. £25,000- a steal!!!!

Richard Fattorini, Rare Books & Manuscripts, Historical Photographs and Maps Consultant Specialist

“Under the Christmas tree I’d be thrilled to discover a signed or inscribed copy of Ian Fleming’s novel Casino Royale which introduced the world to the now legendary British spy James Bond. The book was first published in 1953 with a dust-jacket devised by the author, and with a modest first print run of 4,728 copies. The book was an enormous success and Ian Fleming went on to write a further 13 novels in the series, which have sold more than 100 million copies to date. A first edition in a dust-jacket will cost from £10,000-30,000 depending on condition, and a signed or inscribed copy from £30,000-125,000 depending on the inscription.”

Stephanie Connell, Senior Valuer & Collectors Specialist

“If i were to find one special piece under the Christmas tree it would be a Cecil Beaton design for the stage production of ‘Coco’ starring Katherine Hepburn. These designs are a combination of three 20th century legends – Cecil Beaton was at the height of his powers as an artist and costume designer. The musical starred the all time leading multi Academy Award winning actress Katherine Hepburn as Coco Chanel. Chanel in turn is the most influential fashion designer of the 20th century! Bonhams recently sold a very good example created for the 1969 production which would be a very special gift.”

Liz Bailey, Jewellery, Silver & Watch Specialist

“I would just love to receive some vintage Elsa Peretti under the tree! This year has really shone a light on her wonderful designs in the fashion world, I have well and truly been ‘influenced,’ seeing celebrities such as Rosie Huntington-Whiteley stacking up their Peretti bone cuffs over simple and stylised outfits. I personally could see myself wearing one of her lovely vase pendants, a vintage one of course would be preferable but I would be thrilled with this one currently retailing at £4,100.
… If Santa is feeling flush this year, I would definitely love to add to my watch collection! A Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 101 collection wristwatch would be a dream Christmas present! This 1970s example was set throughout with nine carats of baguette cut diamonds – the perfect blend of fine jewellery and watchmaking innovation – the 101 movement was created in 1929 and is renowned for being, still to this day, the world’s smallest mechanical movement ever made – weighing just one gram!

Fiona Hamilton, Silver Specialist

“Chinchillas normally cost between £80 and £200 and make excellent pets! Originating from the rocky slopes of The Andes they live together in large colonies, so cute!

Or I’d also love to see an Art Deco Day and Night ring from the 1920s, multiple rings in one! £3,315.51- 1st Dibs”

Ashley Crawford, Asian Art Specialist

“If I could receive any gift this holiday season, I would choose this terracotta figure of a court lady from the Tang Dynasty that I was fortunate enough to view in person at Sotheby’s New York during Asia Week this year. The Tang Dynasty has always been one of my favorite periods of Chinese history, not only from an art historical standpoint, but also because of the freedoms that court women enjoyed compared to in the surrounding dynasties. Terracotta sculptures of such women shed insight into their daily lives and interests, such as riding horses, playing music or dancing in women-only ensembles, or displaying the latest fashion trends. Tang court ladies are either portrayed as very thin or round, with the latter shown here in this 8th-century example. Her large zhuimaji (“falling off the horse”) hairstyle is modeled after the concubine Yang Guifei and is characteristic of the period, as are her long sleeves extending well beyond her hands.There is no shortage of Tang ladies in the Asian art market, meaning that unusual or high-quality examples perform significantly better at auction. This Tang lady is notable for her size, condition, and provenance.”

Jane Vann, Valuations & Private Client Services Administrator

“A few years ago, 2016 to be precise, Adele headlined on the Pyramid stage at Glastonbury. As always, her performance was exceptional in her typically down-to-earth way, complete with her ‘potty’ mouth as she calls it! But apart from her singing and language, another thing stood out for me – her bracelet! Her outfit that night was a lovely Boho style dress, complemented with this lovely bracelet that I had to Google to find out what it was, as I’d never seen one before! Since then, everyone is wearing them, including Queen Camilla, who can regularly be seen wearing her turquoise example! I’m quite sure that Queen Camilla’s will not be fake, which probably can’t be said for all the women and girls I see wearing them now! It is of course the Vintage Alhambra bracelet with 5 motifs.”

Kristin Panagiotou, Administration Manager

“As a massive Prince fan, I would love to receive a copy of the new book Prince: Icon. Prince: Icon is a photography book curated by Steve Parke, former art director at Paisley Park, and contributions from those close to him, with new and rarely seen images of the artist, from album covers, performances, candid snapshots and portraits to name a few. I was fortunate to attend a Prince concert when I was in high school and his music, art and creativity has continued to inspire me since then. This book would be a perfect addition to my Prince music and memorabilia collection. ”

Jenny Serra, Marketing Manager

“I am a big kid at heart and love the magic of Christmas each year. What I would really love is to visit Lapland and pretend for a few days that it’s all real – completely immerse myself in all the Christmassy goodness. I would visit Father Christmas, feed the reindeer, travel by sleigh, play in the snow and drink cocoa by a roaring fire. I can’t think of anything I’d enjoy more!”

The ultimate guide to buying handbags

Posted on November 20, 2024November 22, 2024 by Helen Doyle

What to buy second-hand, spotting fakes and caring for your handbags so they retain their value.

A symbol of luxury, designer handbags are often crafted with meticulous attention to detail. Brands like Hermès, for example, employ skilled artisans to hand-stitch their bags using the finest materials. This commitment to quality ensures that these bags are not just fashion accessories, but timeless investments. Other luxury brands, such as Chanel and Louis Vuitton, share this dedication to craftsmanship and durability.

Certain designer handbags, especially limited editions or classic models can appreciate significantly over time, making them valuable assets.

The second-hand market is thriving with popular brands like Chanel, Hermès, and Louis Vuitton with some achieving more than their retail value due to high demand.

The second-hand handbag market is projected to grow at a CAGR of 6.10% from 2023 to 2033. This indicates a strong and steady growth trajectory for the industry.

As consumer preferences continue to shift towards sustainable and affordable luxury, the second-hand handbag market is poised to further expand in the coming years.

Demand for handbags on the resale market has never been higher, and this once small industry is booming. In fact, investing in a handbag is a smart way to spend your money.

Some brands and models can make higher prices at auction than their current retail value.

See below Hermès Birkin selling at auction for £16,500.

A Rouge VIF Ostrich Leather Birkin 30

Sold: £16,500 GBP

December 1 -10 2021
London, United Kingdom

Purchasing pre-owned designer handbags offers multiple benefits. Firstly, it promotes sustainability by reducing waste in the fashion industry. Secondly, it allows buyers to discover unique vintage or limited-edition models that are no longer in production. Thirdly, these handbags often boast high-quality materials and craftsmanship, ensuring durability and style. Finally, buying second-hand provides access to a wider range of trends and styles that may not be available in retail stores.

Here are some examples to show how the market has changed over time.

See below increase in a Kelly handbag in 2007 selling for £400 and in 2023 selling for £7650.

Hermès, A Kelly Bag 1950 – 1960

Est: £300 GBP – £500 GBP
Sold: £400 GBP

Christie’s
November 21, 2007
London, United Kingdom

See below Louis Vuitton and Chanel classic from a sale in Christies 2006 as a group lot and selling for only £480.

Hermès: a Bleu Indigo Clemence Leather Retourne Kelly 32

Sold: £7,650 GBP

March 9, 2023
London, United Kingdom

A ‘Speedy’ Bag by Louis Vuitton & a handbag by Chanel

Est: £300 GBP – £500 GBP
Sold: £480 GBP

September 28, 2006
London, United Kingdom

So which brands sell well on the secondary market?

Hermès

Hermès has a rich history dating back to the 19th century and has produced iconic handbags that have become symbols of elegance and sophistication. Originally founded as a harness workshop, Hermès expanded into leather goods and accessories, eventually introducing its first handbag, the “Haut à Courroies,” designed for carrying riding gear. Nowadays it houses some of the most expensive handbgas ever sold with iconic designs like the Kelly and Birkin, named after Grace Kelly and Jane Birkin respectively, have become highly sought-after by collectors and fashion enthusiasts. Each Hermès handbag is meticulously handcrafted using high-quality materials, ensuring timeless style and durability.

The Hermès Kelly and Birkin are among the most desired handbags in the world, making them excellent investments and highly collectible items. Due to the meticulous craftsmanship and use of rare materials and leathers, Hermès produces a limited number of bags each year. This scarcity, combined with the lengthy waitlists, often drives consumers to the resale market where they can find a wider selection and immediate availability. Despite the premium prices on the resale market, the demand for these iconic bags remains strong.

Look below at examples of the same bag sold in 2005 for £5,760 and 2022 for £11,000.

A black Crocodile Hermès Kelly Bag

Est: £2,000 GBP – £4,000 GBP
Sold: £5,760 GBP

Christie’s
September 29 2005
London, United Kingdom

Hermès: a Black shiny Porosus Crocodile Selllier Kelly 32 1984

Est: £7,000 GBP – £10,000 GBP
Sold: £11,000 GBP

Bonhams
October 4 2022
London, United Kingdom

Kelly and Birkin handbag

The Kelly Bag

The Birkin Bag

It’s not just the secondary market where the value of these handbags increases. Hermes like many other brands increase their retail prices at least once a year and when we look at this over their lifespan, we can start to see why they make such good investments. In the 1950s a standard Kelly bag could have been purchased for $900, by the 60s the same bag cost $1,300, the 70s $2,400, the 80s $4,000, the 90s $5,100 and at the turn of the century it cost $7,400. Today, that exact bag has increased in value to $10,000 – $15,000. The same increase is seen with Birkin bags with a standard Birkin setting customers back $2,000 in 1980, $2,750 in 1990, $4,000 at the turn of the century, and today they sell for up to $20,000!

There are some other Hermès handbags which make great investments.

Hermès Special Order

Exotic skins

This Niloticus Crocodile handbag has achieved over £400,000 at auction.

See below price example of Hermès handbag at auction.

A rare tri colour Hermès Himalaya, 1997

Sold £5,500

June 2022

A vache naturelle, Rouge H Calf Box, Violet Veau Doble

Sold £1,624

June 2009

Chanel

In the 1920s, Chanel introduced their first handbag designs, often made from jersey and in 1929 they launched their first rectangular-shaped bag. By 1955, this rectangular bag featured quilted leather, a chain-strap shoulder bag, a Mademoiselle lock, and a red lining and it started to look like the iconic design we know today. In 2005, Karl Lagerfeld reissued the 2.55 bag, solidifying its status as a timeless classic. In the 1980s, Lagerfeld further expanded Chanel’s handbag offerings with the introduction of the Classic Flap Bag. Chanel handbags continue to be highly sought-after luxury item. The brand’s commitment to quality and innovation ensures that each handbag is a work of art, making them timeless icons in the world of fashion.

The Chanel 2.55 and Classic Flap bags have experienced significant price increases over the years, reflecting their status as highly sought-after luxury items. Since 2016, Chanel has implemented annual price hikes, leading to a more than doubling of prices for certain models. The Medium Chanel Classic Flap, for instance, has seen its price soar from $4,900 to $10,800.

See below example of the 2.55

See below example of the Chanel Boy Bag

Below is an example of a Chanel Classic exceeding its sale estimate.

Chanel – a double flap classic handbag, quilted black lambskin with yellow tone hardware

Est: £1,200 GBP – £1,800 GBP

Sold: £5,000 GBP

Dawsons Auctioneers

September 22, 2022

Here is an example of a Chanel handbag selling at auction in 2003 for only $200.

Classic Chanel Black Handbag Black Quilted Jersey

Est: $300 USD – £400 USD
Sold: £200 USD

Doyle New York
April 09 2023
New York, NY, US

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton, a pioneer in luxury travel goods, has a rich history intertwined with its iconic handbags. Founded in 1854 by Louis Vuitton, the brand initially gained recognition for its innovative flat-topped trunks. Later, Georges Vuitton, Louis Vuitton’s son, introduced the iconic LV monogram canvas, which became a symbol of luxury and status.

In the early 20th century, Louis Vuitton expanded its offerings beyond luggage to include handbags. The Keepall, Speedy, and Alma bags became early classics, each with its unique design and purpose. As the brand continued to evolve, it expanded its product range to include a wider variety of handbags, collaborating with renowned designers to create limited-edition pieces.

Today, Louis Vuitton handbags are renowned for their exceptional craftsmanship, timeless designs, and high-quality materials. The LV monogram canvas remains a signature element of many Louis Vuitton handbags, symbolizing the brand’s heritage and luxury. Louis Vuitton’s ability to blend tradition with innovation has ensured its enduring popularity, making its handbags coveted possessions for fashion enthusiasts worldwide.

Their classic designs are timeless, for example the Louis Vuitton Speedy, first released in the 1930s, is a great handbag that can be purchased for under £1,000 on the resale market.

See below examples of an LV going through auction.

Louis Vuitton Speedy 25 Handbag

Est: £500 USD – £600 USD
Sold: £950 USD

Vogt Galleries Texas
February 27, 2021
San Antonio, TX, US

A Louis Vuitton Black Mini Hand Bag

Est: £2,000 USD – £2,500 USD
Sold: £2,000 USD

Empire Auction House
July 07, 2020
Flushing, NY, US

See below limited-edition Louis Vuitton Speedy selling for $2,500 at auction.

Louis Vuitton ‘Game On Speedy
Bandouliere 30’ Bag

Est: £3,000 USD – £5,000 USD
Sold: £2,500 USD

Austin Auction Gallery
December 09, 2022
Austin, TX, US

See below limited-edition selling at auction

Louis Vuitton ‘Jeff Koons Master’s Rubens Speedy’

Est: £4,000 USD – £6,000 USD
Sold: £3,000 USD

Austin Auction Gallery
December 09, 2022
Austin, TX, US

Louis Vuitton FW 2022 LV Paint Can (Virgil Abloh)

Est: £0 USD – £0 USD
Sold: £3,000 USD

GWS Auctions
October 08, 2022
Agoura Hills, CA, US

The very best investment pieces by LV are the limited-edition versions.

Here are the top five most popular designer handbags of 2024

Chanel 2.55 Flap Bag: A timeless classic, this iconic bag continues to be a top choice for many.
Hermès Birkin: Renowned for its exclusivity and craftsmanship, the Birkin remains a coveted luxury item.
Louis Vuitton Speedy: A versatile and stylish bag, the Speedy is a popular choice for everyday use.
Dior Lady Dior: A sophisticated and elegant bag that has been a staple in the fashion world for years.
Prada Re-Edition 2000 Nylon Bag: This retro-inspired bag has experienced a resurgence in popularity, thanks to its functional design and playful aesthetic.

Caring correctly for your handbag can help retain its value and can significantly extend the life of your designer handbag.

To maintain the pristine condition of your designer handbag, regular cleaning is essential. For everyday dirt and grime, gently wipe the surface with a soft, dry cloth.

Proper storage is also essential. Always store your bag in its original dust bag to protect it from dust, moisture, and light. Stuff the bag with acid-free tissue paper or a soft cloth to maintain its shape. Avoid exposing your bag to extreme conditions such as direct sunlight, heat and humidity. To prevent excessive wear and tear, rotate your bags in your collection.

Avoid overloading your bag, as this can strain the handles and stitching. Protect your bag from water damage by avoiding exposure to rain or moisture. If it does get wet, dry it immediately with a soft cloth. Don’t store makeup or pens in your handbag as these can mark the inside. Try to limit exposure to perfumes, lotions, and other chemicals that can damage the materials.

Spotting A Fake Handbag

If you decide to purchase a handbag on the secondary market its important to make sure its genuine. Remember a genuine designer handbag will be made of the very best quality fabrics and finished to a very high standard. They will have to pass a very strict quality control test before even being allowed to be sold, so if you have a bag that doesn’t ooze quality, it’s time to investigate a little further.

Here’s some tips for spotting those pesky fakes.

Construction and fabric

Fake handbags are often poorly constructed which can result in the shape being compromised. This can result in the overall shape being different to the real thing as well as puckering of corners and sections not sitting flat or quite as they should.

The fakers will often focus heavily on the exterior of a handbag and usually skimp on internal features such as lining, therefore it’s good to really assess the inside and check if the fabric lies flat without visible lumps and bumps, it certainly should in a genuine handbag.

Take note of the fabrics pattern and how it flows through the handbag. They should match at seams and through pockets and flaps as if there were no join at all and it was just a continuation of the fabrics design. This is a simple thing that can be quickly assessed and is something the fakers often fail to achieve.

Knowing the defining features of some commonly used fabrics can be a great tool at spotting a fake. The fakers often make silly mistakes when replicating details such as painting on what should be textured or making it larger or smaller than it should be.

Here’s a list of popular fabrics and their defining characteristics.

Louis Vuitton Canvas

The canvas used by Louis Vuitton is very hard wearing and robust and comes in a Monogram or Damier pattern, there are multiple variations of this in different colours and finishes. The material is also very slightly textured and can have a purple undertone.

Louis Vuitton Epi Leather

Epi Leather used by Louis Vuitton is a very hard-wearing and textured fabric with a matt finish which is very popular. Fakers often paint on the textured look or sometimes it’s much more over emphasised than it should be.

Louis Vuitton Vachetta

Louis Vuitton use Vachetta which is a light beige, untreated Italian leather often used on the trim and handles. Due to being untreated it can age and go darker over time a process called Patina. This development of the leather is individual to each bag and no two will age in the same way. An old used LV with its trim or handles in perfect condition could be a sign that bag is fake.

Chanel Lambskin

Lambskin leather is very popular for Chanel and should feel soft to the touch and have a visibly smooth appearance. It is of superior quality and easy to distinguish from the feel and appearance which isn’t often achieved by the counterfeiters. If you are inspecting a lambskin leather bag, ensure it feels extremely soft to the touch.

Chanel Caviar Leather

Caviar leather is made from pebbled calf leather and is popular in Chanel handbags. It has a bubbly appearance and is textured. Its durable and less likely to scratch and mark than lambskin. When you run your hands over genuine caviar leather you should feel raised dimple. This is often over embellished by the fakers.

Exotic skins

Exotic Skins should be purchased with the CITES which is a passport for the skin. There are certain characteristics that differentiate alligator and crocodile from ostrich and python. Faked exotic leathers are often made of embossed leather.

Stitching

Most designer handbags are expertly sewn by machine except for the Hermès Kelly and Birkin that are sewn by hand. In all cases the stitching should be finished to an exceptionally high level inside and out with a high number of stitches used to maintain the shape and quality of a bag. A low number of stitches or stitching that is coming undone could be a sign of a fake.

There should be no signs of glue or loose threads and the presence of these should make you suspicious.

The number of stitches can be very important. The quilted fabric on a Chanel should feature between 8 to 11 stitches per side of each panel. The fakers often use a lower number of stitches to create the same look, so counting these can help spot a fake.

A vintage Chanel with a chain should have one metal link without the leather threaded through. A modern version will feature one link with the leather folded back on itself and stitched through. This is a feature often missed by the fakers so check the chains, its easy and super quick to do.

Serial Number

Serial numbers can tell you a great deal about a handbag and most designers use them except for some vintage models.

It can tell you the age and the location where the bag was made. Use this information to your advantage, If you are buying a pre-owned designer handbag and the seller says they purchased it in Paris in 2008, check that the number corresponds to this information.

Below is a list of where you can find the serial numbers for each designer

Chanel
The serial number can be found inside the main compartment to the bottom left. In the form of a sticker, the code is very securely attached, and these rarely come off.

Louis Vuitton
The code is embossed on a tag or on the inside of a pocket. They can be a little tricky to find. Louis Vuitton do not come with an authenticity card. Some vintage models don’t have a code.

Gucci
The serial code is embossed under the Gucci label inside of the bag.

Hermès
Hermès bags don’t have a serial number but they do have a letter to identify the date they were manufactured. This letter is usually embossed into the leather.

The lack of a serial number in a modern handbag should raise an alarm. When checking serial numbers yourself, check they follow the format listed in the table below.

Louis Vuitton 2007 – 2021
Two letters followed by four numbers. The first two letters represent the factory location. The first and third numbers represent the week of the year, and the second and forth numbers represent the year.

Louis Vuitton 1990 – 2006
Two letters followed by four numbers. The first two letters represent the factory location. The first and third numbers represent the month and the second and forth numbers represent the year.

Louis Vuitton 1980 – 1990
Two letters followed by three or four digits. The letters represent the factory location, and the first two numbers represent the year, and the 3rd number represents the month.

Chanel
1984 – 1986
Serial number has six digits.

Chanel
1986 – 2004
Serial number has seven digits.

Chanel
2005 onwards
Serial number has eight digits

Packaging & Authenticity Cards

Not all authenticity cards are authentic!

A common characteristic seen in a fake Chanel authenticity card is an iridescent or rainbow effect. Chanel do not issue cards with this feature and Louis Vuitton and Hermès do not come with authenticity cards at all.

The packaging is another place where the fakers tend to focus less attention. Packaging should have the same luxurious high-quality finish as the original handbag. Check the logo is central, the handles of a bag should not come wrapped in plastic. Is the dust cover the correct colour? It should be mustard yellow for LV and white or black for Chanel.

The Hardware & Logos

The hardware should be excellent quality and smooth without rough edges. Clasps should work well and be good quality with no sharp edges.

Here are some classic characteristics you should see in real hardware.

Chanel

The brand stamp should be in the correct style of font and quality of the stamp should be good. The fakers use a thinner font.

Chanel

Inspect the CC lock closely it can feature either a raised or flat finish. The right C should overlap the left C at the top and the left C overlap the right C at the bottom. Replica locks generally feature minor mistakes such as the shape of the Cs, the placement of additional metal above the lock, and even the style of the interlocking Cs.

Chanel

The lock stem itself is another feature worth checking. Authentic lock stems are made from 24K gold plate and even when used for a lengthy period will still maintain its condition. Replicas, however, are generally plated with gold which will peel off after use. When the lock is twisted open it should feel springy.

Chanel

The real giveaway is the stamping mark on the back plate of the clasp. If you open the bag and look at the back of the turnstile lock you will see the back plate. Chanel attaches this using flat screws only alongside a clear font with even spacing. Replicas may use different type of screws and various other styles of lettering and font on the back plate.

Louis Vuitton

The quality of the padlock should be excellent with the engraving clear and crisp. One notable detail is the use of the perfectly round O in Vuitton, and the L has a short tail with the top of the T’s almost touching.

Louis Vuitton

Padlocks and Keys are made of brass or plated and are numbered, with the same number on the key. Look out for some numbers are used more commonly than others, such as 448.

Louis Vuitton

The lock and keys are normally numbered. Those beginning with 3 (3XX) were made before 2009 and those beginning with a 4 (4XX) were made after. Be aware that they have begun making padlocks with 3 again now so this should just be a guide. When dating a LV best to rely on the serial number.

Louis Vuitton

The lock should read: Louis Vuitton – Made in France or Paris. A padlock saying Made in Paris is probably fake as ‘made in’ always is followed by a country not a city. It is predominately vintage handbags that say Made in France as more recently they started making bags in different countries, so they dropped this.

This guide should help you if you are thinking about purchasing a new or preowned designer handbag. However, it is also extremely important to have an up-to-date valuation for luxury items. This will ensure that your bag is adequately covered in case of theft, loss, or damage. As designer handbags go up in value over time, a recent valuation helps determine the appropriate level of insurance coverage. It can protect your investment and give you peace of mind knowing your luxury item is adequately insured.

Beach Bag Ready!!

Posted on July 11, 2024August 13, 2025 by Helen Doyle

There’s nothing like a stylish, thoughtfully crafted beach bag to complete your resort wear ensemble and ensure all your personal essentials are within reach, and with the Great British Summer upon us we thought there was no better time to review this season’s most fabulous beach bags with a couple of rainy-day options thrown in, because, well, you know!

This year, the most sought-after brands have you covered, with Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Chanel offering this season’s most desirable beach bags and accessories with even a designer chocolate sauce for your ice cream.

Aside from the fact that a designer handbag can make a great investment, there are numerous factors to consider beyond your bag’s appearance when shopping for your perfect match. It makes it easier that most of the choices nowadays are as functional as they are chic. This year there are some beautiful vibrant options available, and it seems bigger is better.

Here’s our top designer beach bags, to suit any of your form and functional needs. Many of these are sure to become year-round accessories and the best part is they are all available to buy now, no wait list, even with Hermès!! So, let’s dive straight in!

Hermès

Hermès offer a fabulous range of beach bags and accessories and you can guarantee you will be the chicest person on the beach. Not only this but, a Hermès handbag always makes a great investment, with retail prices going up every year.

This season’s hottest selection comprises of:

Hermès From My Window.

Designed by Nigel Peake the collection is bold, colourful, and graphical which is a signature style of the artist with multiple perspectives being represented, with one or more windows opening out onto the world.

They are from cotton, canvas and wood, they are the perfect accessory for this summer, and they are also available to purchase directly from the website, with no wait list!

This example is retailing for £1,850.

Another great example by Hermès is the ‘Escale a a Plage’ beach bag, designed by Matthieu Cosses, in canvas and currently retails for £1,850, a bargain when compared to the price of a Birkin and Kelly.

Hermès not only have a wonderful collection of handbags but also beach towels with this bold and colourful example in Summer Games print, retailing for £600.

Christian Dior

Christian Dior produce some classic, timeless designs which always prove exceptionally popular, and like Hermès, their retail prices also increase in value every year, making them ever so popular on the open market.

The hat basket bag is made in Italy and stands out with its elegant silhouette combining functionality and refinement. It is hand-woven using artisanal techniques in natural wicker. The style features top handles and a blue Dior Oblique jacquard interior drawstring pouch. The Christian Dior Paris signature adorns the front. The spacious bag is completed by an adjustable and removable embroidered shoulder strap that allows it to be carried by hand, worn over the shoulder or crossbody. With the Christian Dior Paris signature on the front, it retails for £4,100.

Gucci

This year Gucci has taken its inspiration from the summer spirit and beach clubs on the Italian coast. The House’s straw accessories shed new light on the traditional material in vibrant colours and iconic motifs.

From the Lido Collection, this tote bag features brown leather straps across a natural base. The name of the House appears as a straw Gucci patch in keeping with the warm weather feel and retails for £2,030.

Chanel

Chanel never disappoints when it comes to handbags and their beach bags are no exception. This large cotton crochet & gold-tone metal tote in beige, pink & light green retails for £8,170.

Beach sets do very well on the open market, with this great set selling for just under £1,800 at auction in 2022.

Prada

Prada have produced some beautiful neutral tones this summer, this example of a medium wicker and linen blend tote bag retails for £1,750.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton’s latest spring-summer collection is landing in boutiques and it’s the perfect opportunity to refresh your accessory lineup. Whether you’re planning a getaway to the sun or embracing a city staycation, they’ve curated the hottest LV bags for your closet. From timeless hobo styles to sleek crossbody designs, these trendy companions promise to elevate your adventures in style.

Fun summer items such as a surf style Pochette Voyage Pouch retails for £850 and a Mini Golf Bag that can be yours for £2,490.

Speedy P9 Bandoulière

The Speedy P9 Bandoulière by Pharrell Williams is undeniably one of the hottest bags of the moment. Originally unveiled during Pharrell’s Men’s Spring-Summer 2024 collection, the Speedy P9 Bandoulière swiftly captured attention with its luxe appeal. Despite its origin in the menswear collection, this bag has become a coveted item for both men and women alike. However, getting your hands on one may prove to be quite the challenge and as such some are being listed on the resell market for three times the retail price of £6,850.

And finally, Louis Vuitton have just released their very own chocolate spread!! Its only available in two locations, a pop-up boutique in Singapore and their Paris store. With these limited supplies the secondary market for this designer chocolate spread has gone crazy with some examples selling for up to £500.

So, whether you are indulging in some chocolate spread and ice cream this summer, or a new beach bag, remember that having an up-to-date insurance document for your luxury belongings is extremely important. Doerr Dallas Valuations can provide you with an an insurance valuation, so you can relax and enjoy the beach, knowing that if the worst should happen, you’re properly insured, even if it’s your precious chocolate spread!!!