Category Archives: Aurélia Turrall News

Discovering Sotheby’s Auction

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Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal collection

On the 6th and 7th November, Sotheby’s Geneva will be auctioning some of the finest antique jewellery from the 1900s, described as Belle Epoque jewellery. This collection is unique in that it groups prestigious gems, such as emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and natural pearls, but also in that these pieces have been kept intact all this time. It is becoming increasingly rare to find pieces from over a century ago. Jewels are very often broken up and stripped of their gems and metal. It is, in my opinion, a great shame, as the craftmanship of that period was stunning and very refined.

Belle époque jewels are characterised by bows, ribbons, swags and flowers, and items mounted en tremblant. Meaning to tremble, en tremblant diamond-set flowerheads (for the most part) are attached to a thin metal wire spring which trembles with movement. This gives the illusion of life and allows light to reverberate into the diamonds, bouncing off and reflecting “fire”, all the colours of the rainbows. It is often found on tiaras, brooches or devant de corsage such as lot 1089 of the sale.

Gifted by Philipp, Duke of Württemberg (1838-1917) as a wedding gift to his bride Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria – Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg (1845 –1927 in 1865, it is composed of natural saltwater pearls and approximately 60 – 75 carats of diamonds. It comes with an estimate of CHF270,000 – 450,000 (approximately £245,000 – 410,000).

Selling with the same estimate is a natural pearl and diamond brooch, circa 1865.

It is set with a first button-shaped pearl, measuring approximately 14mm and suspends a larger drop, measuring approximately 19mm. They are highlighted by approximately ten carats of diamonds.

This piece and its estimate are an indication of exceptional provenance but also reinforce the importance of having certificates for unique gems. These two pearls have reports from the reputable laboratory SSEF in Switzerland. When looking to insure or sell, reports will be a key part of valuing an item correctly.

In the example of the above brooch, if the pearls were not natural, its value would be mainly in the diamonds. It is their natural origin that give it a hefty price tag.

What do we call natural pearl?

Natural, as opposed to cultured pearls, are created in the wild, without human intervention. Cultured pearls are grown in farms and commonly are bead nucleated. This means a nacre has been formed around a nucleus as way for the pearl of defending itself. The pearls are then collected anywhere from six months to 3 years depending on the type and environment in which they are grown.

To illustrate further the uniqueness of the pearl and diamond brooch sold by Sotheby’s (above), the retailer Hancocks, who deals with antique jewellery, currently sells a natural pearl and diamond brooch for £22,500 (below). The pearl measures approximately 11mm and there are close to five carats of diamonds.

There are a variety of jewellery for women of course in this sale but also for men. Beautiful emerald cufflinks for example are also for sale.

The above cufflinks are centrally colletset with rose-cut diamonds within a navette-shaped emerald terminal. They belonged to the Tsar of Bulgaria and have an estimate of CHF3,600 – 5,500 (approximately £3,200 – 5,000).

Cufflinks and medals were worn with uniforms for balls, together with neck badges such as the below.

This beautiful gem-set neck badge has an estimate of CHF36,000 – 55,000 (approximately £32,000 – 50,000) and is adorned with a Ceylon sapphire, accompanied by an SSEF report stating it has no indication of heat treatment.

In this instance again, a report is essential and its findings are reflected in the estimate. Heat treatment is often used in sapphires to deepen a stone’s colour and, although a common practise, can detract from a gem’s value. The key factors of quality of this sapphire, together with provenance and other gems in the piece makes it a stunning piece.

This collection embodies the late 19th century, early 20th century era of court, wars and balls with delicate attires and military uniforms. Waltzes and lavish court dinners with men and women draped with the most exceptional jewellery, reflected who they were in society, and if judging by the quality of these pieces, it is no surprise they could have been considered semi-Gods.

On a personal note, I wish great success for this sale in association with Duke Philipp of Württemberg, who I had the extreme pleasure of working with at Sotheby’s.

Nephrite

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Nephrite can be found in three major locations: northwestern China, Siberia and British Columbia, though China has been said to provide to best quality nephrite, such as the “mutton fat”.

The mines in British Columbia formed in the Mesozoic, 251.9 to 66.0 million years ago, when Pangea started to separate and dinosaurs walked the planet.

Nephrite, along with jadeite, is often referred to as jade. It comes in an array of colours and can be translucent to opaque.

Although nephrite comes in various colours, it is usually less pronounced than in jadeite. What else differentiates jadeite from nephrite? Their chemical composition to start with. This would be difficult to identify when out shopping for a jade necklace, but jadeite’s composition is: NaAlSi2O6 and nephrite’s is Ca2(Mg,Fe)5Si8O22(OH)2.

The deposits location is also different. Jadeite is only found in Myanmar as opposed to nephrite, which ranges across the borders.

Nephrite is harder than jadeite, making it a good candidate for sculptures.

Nephrite rates 6 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale. The Mohs scale of mineral hardness was created by Friedrich Mohs in 1822 and determines the scratch resistance of minerals when scratched by another mineral.

The Mohs scale is used to manufacture everyday objects: your mobile phone’s screen glass is made of a material that scratches at level 6, some at level 7.

Compared to jadeite, if nephrite chips, it will have a more waxy texture to it and could leave a powdery residue.

Though it may scratch, it is nonetheless a hard gemstone, made up of minuscule interlocking minerals which form a larger one, this is called a metamorphic gem. It was in fact hard enough for when man first made tools.

Due to its relative hardness and arrays of colours in which it comes, it is very sought after. However, jadeite is more valuable than nephrite, but the latter remains a great contender for jewellery pieces and for being carved and polished.

This autumn (2023) Sotheby’s HK is offering for sale the below fire opal, icy jadeite and diamond brooch with an estimate of HKD40,000-50,000 (approximately £4,000-5,000).

Nephrite comes in all shapes and forms. The above is set with two cabochon nephrite. A common and traditional piece of jewellery is the hololith bangle, made out of one piece of stone.

“Bi”, a flat disc with hole in the middle and representing heaven, is also made of one piece of stone.

They can be fashioned into any shape or form, it’s no wonder why they are one of Hollywood’s favourite go to pieces for a chic and understated statement.

Actress Emilia Clarke wore these exquisite earrings to the Emmys, and though they are most likely to be jadeite jade rather than nephrite, there are some affordable pieces retailing with similar spark.

Such as these teardrop earrings selling for £300.

Or this beaded necklace, retailing for £2,500.

If money is not an issue, then perhaps, its counterpart in jadeite jade could be an option, as with the opposing jadeite jade necklace, which sold with Sotheby’s in 2020, for USD 10.4 million.

Perhaps this is the price to pay for a little bit of heaven, as Confucius described jade, and who wouldn’t want that?

The Princess of Wales jewellery trooping the colour

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What a year it has been for the Royal family and ceremonial events and on the 17th June, they did it again, for the King’s birthday, also known as Trooping the Colour. The Princess of Wales was as regal as ever, and her outfit full of meaning – as they usually are.

When I first glanced at her stylish green outfit, my first thought was how reminiscent of the late Queen it was.

But when looking closer at the jewellery, the true meaning of the green came to light. Earlier in the year The Princess of Wales took over the role from her husband as the 11th Colonel of the Irish Guards. Her outfit designed by the fashion designer Andrew GN is called “emerald green triple crème coat dress with satin trim” and retails for £2,839 and is a deliberate choice of colour on this very special occasion.

It is completed by handcrafted jewelled buttons which appear to be a mix of turquoise, chalcedony or chrysoprase, and echoes the British flag design.

The jewelled button was also carefully placed on the back of the wide trimmed hat, by Philip Treacy.

The coat dress was paired with her signature shamrock brooch which she has been seen wearing on St Patrick’s day.

The brooch of textured design, features a single emerald to the centre. It was crafted by Cartier and then presented to Princess Mary, the Princess Royal, by the regiment in 1961. Though others state that the piece may have belonged to Queen Alexandra first. When Princess Mary died, the brooch was sold at auction and bought by the regiment and it was worn by the Queen Mother until her death in 2002, followed by Princess Anne between 2002 and 2011, and is on these occasions, loaned by the regiment.

In 2014, a similar four-leaf clover brooch came up for auction, the brooch made in 1957 by Cartier sold for £2,000 (including buyer’s premium). Today, I would place an insurance replacement value of £10,000 on this brooch.

To complete the look, the Princess of Wales wore Princess Diana’s sapphire and diamond cluster earrings.

The earrings feature two cabochon sapphires within a diamond surround, each cluster connected by a single diamond. The earrings are said to be part of a suite gifted to Princess Diana for her wedding by the Crown Prince of Saudi Arabia. The suite comprises of Burmese sapphire and diamond pendant with matching earrings, a ring, bracelet, and a watch.

The author of The Queen’s Jewels, Leslie Field described the Saudi set as, “Made by Asprey, it consists of an enormous Burmese sapphire pendant set in a jagged sunray fringe of baguette diamonds and hung on a thin diamond necklace; a matching pair of earrings and ring; a two-row bracelet of brilliant-cut diamonds with a smaller version of the sapphire pendant as a centrepiece; and a wristwatch, the face set in the same diamond sunray fringe and the strap consisting of seven oval sapphires set in clusters of diamonds.”

In 2007, Sotheby’s sold a similar sapphire and diamond cluster ring, comprised of a 3.52cts Burmese sapphire within a diamond surround, totalling 5.50cts. It sold for USD 12,000 (including buyer’s premium). Today, I would place an insurance replacement value of at least £50,000 for this piece.

For every event, The Princess of Wales carefully curates and matches her outfits including jewellery with the attention to detail simply impeccable.

Look at for her next time and spot the details within her dress and jewellery.

As jewellery replacement values continue to increase, please can we remind you to update your insurance valuations and if you have never had a valuation please call us to discuss.

How to care for your Jewellery

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When discussing cleaning and caring for one’s jewellery, we often forget that metals need TLC and can also be damaged by everyday products and may result in discolouration. Gold, silver and platinum can all be affected by chemicals such as perfumes, hair spray and cosmetics. The discolouration results in the alloy (other metals mixed with gold, silver or platinum) being affected by the chemicals, the gold itself remains intact.

Why has my bracelet turned green?

This is due to the copper used as an alloy with the gold, it does not mean your jewellery is fake gold simply that it has been exposed to chemicals and perhaps even sweat.

Other very sensitive components of jewellery affected by chemicals are pearls. Pearls are porous and will absorb whatever they are in contact with.

Cosmetics will damage your pearls permanently. Over time they can also lose their moisture and result in cracking and discolouration. One can place a wet cotton next to pearls to help with moisture and should always avoid swimming in a chlorinated pool with pearls. Other porous gems include turquoise and opal which also need to be treated with extra attention.

Discolouration does not always happen as a result from exposure to chemicals. Just as old paintings are shunned from sunlight and kept at a cool temperature, certain gemstones should also be kept in the dark and in a controlled temperature environment to avoid fading. These gems include amethyst, topaz, shell cameos and kunzite.

So how should I clean my jewellery?

The use of ultrasonic cleaners can be an answer. However, this should only be used when advised to do so by an industry professional.

Ultrasonic cleaners generate tiny vibrations which loosens dirt on and around gems. In some cases these vibrations can damage gemstones, for example those with surface reaching fractures and which have been filled with oils, resin or substance filler. Pearls and other organic gems such as amber, coral and ivory should not be placed in the ultrasonic.

The ultrasonic is a great way to clean diamonds, which attracts the most dirt and grease out of all the gems (please seek professional advice before using this equipment), and after a few minutes in the machine, it is like getting a brand new piece of jewellery.

If I can’t use the ultrasonic, what are the safest ways to clean jewellery?

The oldest tricks can sometimes really be the best ones. Two simple ingredients are needed to clean most gems: washing up liquid (no detergent) and warm water. Dipping your jewellery in this mixture and letting it sit for a while will soften the accumulated dirt and allow it to fall off. One can also use a soft bristle toothbrush to remove the remaining dirt. Make sure you then rinse the soap off the jewellery.

The toothbrush should not be used on pearls as this can scratch the delicate surface (the nacre) of the pearl. Instead one can use a make up brush and use the same ingredients of soapy warm water to clean any dirt. Simply air dry your strand of pearl on a clean soft piece of fabric, whilst avoiding touching the string and dirtying it. If you notice your string is dirty and brittle, make sure to have it restrung regularly to avoid any disaster.

How should one store their jewellery?

As we mentioned, pearls, opals, coral, turquoise and shell should not be kept in a dry or hot environment. Silver should be placed in anti-tarnish pouches and should never be in contact with rubber bands.

I always recommend separating gem-set jewellery from each other as they can scratch each other’s surfaces. This also applies when travelling. Throwing all of one’s jewellery in the same pouch is asking for trouble! Small individual plastic zip pouches are ideal and jewellery boxes are perfect to make sure your jewellery is kept out of harm’s way.

It can get overwhelming when trying to remember how to care for everything in one’s possession. In simple words I would advise to wear and enjoy your jewellery as much as possible and it should bring you more joy than fear of damaging it! So, if worry takes over enjoyment, it might be time to get your jewellery appraised and perhaps even sell for someone else to cherish.

L for Lapis Lazuli

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Lapis lazuli is one of the oldest stones recorded, a favourite gem for amulets and scarabs in ancient Egypt. Lapis lazuli artefacts have been found at excavations of the Predynastic Egyptian site Naqada (3300–3100 BC) and was used for Tutankhamun’s gold mask.

It has been mined as early as 7570 BC in Afghanistan and is mentioned in the Old Testament, referred to as “sapphire”. Exodus 24:10: “And they saw the God of Israel, and there was under his feet as it were a paved work of a sapphire stone…” Scholars agree that the Latin reference to the blue gem “lapidis sapphirine” is in fact lapis lazuli, not sapphire.

The name comes from the Latin lapis, “stone,” and the Persian lazhuward, “blue.” The mineral is formed of multiple components: lazurite, sodalite, calcite, and pyrite – nicknamed “fool’s gold” and appear as gold flecks.

Lapis lazuli is known for its intense blue, with the most prized colours ranging from greenish blue to violetish blue and highly saturated medium to dark tone. If other minerals are present, it will alter its appearance and may have an impact on the desirability. Specks of “gold” pyrite are highly acceptable, however if there is an excess of white calcite the gem will be less valuable. The lower grade lapis lazuli is green and dull in appearance. The more lazurite, the deeper the blue, often referred to as royal blue. The more pyrite, the greener the gem.

Afghanistan, and more specifically the northeastern province of Badakhshan, has always, and still does, produce the most prized lapis lazuli. In fact, the trade name for the highest quality lapis lazuli is nicknamed Persian or Afghan and contains very little or no calcite or pyrite. The condition to access the lapis lazuli are ruthless.

Unfortunately recent events have pushed the mineral to now be classified as a conflict mineral as the “6,500 year old lapis mines are driving corruption, conflict and extremism in the country. Global Witness has found that the Taliban and other armed groups are earning up to 20 million dollars per year from Afghanistan’s lapis mines, the world’s main source of the brilliant blue lapis lazuli stone, which is used in jewellery around the world.”

Other trade names include Russian or Siberian. These variations contain pyrite and might contain some calcite. Chilean is another trade name with obvious calcite traces and often green. Though the names refer to geographic locations, the stones may not be mined there.

Lapis lazuli’s use has always been very versatile. It can be cut into beads, inlaid in rings, fashioned into bowls and carved into ornamental objects.

Due to its intense blue colour, the gem became a favourite amongst Renaissance painters. Lapis lazuli was crushed and the blue pigment was named ultramarine, from the Latin “ultramarinus”, meaning beyond the sea.

The 17th century Dutch painter Johannes Vermeer used this very expensive pigment in abundance in his paintings.

Several others made use of ultramarine in their iconic artworks.

The use of lapis lazuli was synonymous with great wealth. It is not surprising that in the Medici Chapel in Florence the gem is heavily represented, such as on the Altar of the Chapel of Princes.

However due to its classification as a conflict gem, will demand, availability and use in jewellery continue to thrive?

Oscars 2023, Dazzled by Snakes, Green Gems and Timeless Chic

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Bvlgari strikes again with their Serpenti collection wrapped around Angela Bassett, Cara Delevingne and the outstanding screenwriter Phoebe Waller-Bridge.

Angela Bassett wore matching diamond-set necklace and bangle by Bvlgari, mounted in 18ct white gold. A similar necklace was sold at Sotheby’s in November 2021 with an estimate of CHF 220,000 – 325,000. The necklace set with approximately 70 carats of diamonds sold for CHF 252,000 (approximately £230,000).

Bvlgari retails a diamond-set bangle in white gold for £81,000 and is set with just under nine carats of diamonds.

Angela Bassett

Simpler versions of the bracelet can be found in yellow or rose gold for £5,300.

Matching her Dolce & Gabbana gown, Phoebe Waller-Bridge wore a diamond and emerald-set Serpenti necklace mounted in rose gold.

Bvlgari currently retails a rose gold diamondset Serpenti Viper necklace in rose gold for £45,900, with 4.41 carats of diamonds.

One of the show stoppers of the evening was stunning Cara Delevingne. In the style of Old Hollywood, she embodied chic and glamour in an off the shoulder Elie Saab gown with bow and high leg slit.

The outfit was completed with diamond and emeralds in the form of Serpenti threestrand necklace matching bracelet, Serpenti Seduttori earrings and ring.

From the same Seduttori emerald and diamond collection, a ring currently retails for £12,700. The coiled body is set with 0.57 carat of diamonds and the eyes are highlighted by 0.20 carat pear-shaped emeralds.

Moving away from the Serpenti collection was the appearance of the Diva’s Dream jewellery collection worn by Rainsford Qualley, Andie MacDowell’s daughter.

Chic and understated, the earrings are set with mother-of-pearl and mounted in white gold. The Diva’s Dream mother-of-pearl earring range is priced from £2,130 to £2,760 with a diamond surround.

For those not adorned in Bvlgari, exquisite green-gemmed jewellery certainly made a statement on the red carpet.

Sofia Carson wore a superb Chopard emerald and diamond necklace featuring seven octagonal-shaped emeralds totalling 122.49 carats along with 92.57 carats of pear-shaped, marquise, baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds set in white gold jewellery from the brand’s “Haute Joaillerie Collection.”

Fellow actress Jessica Chastain also opted for Haute Joaillerie collection from Franco- Italian designer Gucci, complementing the strapless sequined gown also by the designer. However, unlike Sofia Carson, the green gems were not emeralds but tsavorites, a form of garnet, 80 carats worth.

Other famous jewellery designer to include the green gem in its design is Cartier, with the famous Panthère collection.

This diamond, onyx, and tsavorite garnet necklace was sold for GBP 37,500 at Sotheby’s in June 2016.

Cartier was certainly a contender for the most jaw-dropping piece of jewellery of this 95th Award ceremony with a large pear-shaped yellow sapphire worn by Deepika Padukone.

Though yellow sapphires are less expensive than yellow diamonds, they are nonetheless breathtakingly beautiful and perfectly accentuate any black outfit!

Understated? Perhaps not quite, but maybe more subtle than the Serpenti collection, the yellow sapphire necklace by Cartier was my winner for this year’s Oscars. Not to say I would turn down being draped in Bvlgari Serpenti jewels to accept my award for best screenplay!

This might just be one Diva’s Dream but then anything’s possible in Hollywood, so carry on dreaming…

A few of my favorite glitz from the SAG Awards 2023

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This year’s big winner of the evening was the family adventure Everything Everywhere All at Once whose leading actress Michelle Yeoh won the award for Female Actor in a Leading Role.

Just as she did for the Bafta, she dazzles us once again with spectacular pieces by Moussaieff including a yellow diamond and diamond ring, set with a 21.02 carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond between pear-shaped diamond shoulders.

To put this into perspective, a 3.03 carats Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond ring mounted in platinum is currently up for sale at Sotheby’s online for USD 195,000. I leave it to your imagination to work out the cost of the above 21 carats diamond!

She paired the ring with a pair of chandelier yellow diamond and diamond earrings.

The earrings are set with 24.70 carats of pear shaped Fancy Intense Yellow diamonds, and 11.08 carats of pear-shaped and brilliant-cut white diamonds.

The outfit was finished with a Richard Mille wristwatch for which she is also a brand ambassador.

Fellow actor Ke Huy Quan, who won the Outstanding Performance by Male Actor in a Supporting role category and made history by being the first Asian actor to win this SAG award, looked dashing with a De Beers brooch from The Alchemist of Light high jewellery collection, set with a 2.70 carat oval Fancy Grey diamond within a blue aluminium surround.

The beautiful collection by De Beers include the Ascending Shadows Small Earrings.

Set with two central diamonds each weighing 1.01 carats and 1.02 carats, E, VS2, within a surround of diamond, the total weight adding to 6.30 carats and mounted in 18 carat white gold, 18 carat rose gold, titanium & aluminium. These currently retail for £94,500. Similar designs of the collection include a headband, necklace and cocktail ring.

Other red carpet nominees and actors wearing De Beers exceptional pieces included Angela Bassett, Li Jun Li, Hannah Einbinder, and Katherine Waterston. Cara Delevingne dazzled in a “few” De Beers pieces.

These included: The Alchemist of Light ‘Midnight Aura’ Necklace set in 18 carat white gold with 74.73 carats of diamonds, The Alchemist of Light ‘Midnight Aura’ Earrings set in 18 carat black rhodium plated white gold with 9.58 carats of diamonds, a diamond line bracelet set in platinum with 17.03 carats of diamonds, Volute Ring set in platinum with 6.80 carats of diamonds, Adonis Rose Pear
Diamond Ring set in platinum with 5.40 carats of diamonds, a diamond eternity band set in platinum with 6.14 carats of diamonds, and a round brilliant diamond eternity band set in platinum with 7.15 carats of diamonds.

The Volute diamond ring can be yours for USD 218,000.

One of my favourite red carpet actresses is Zendaya. She is faultless! And this year’s 29th ceremony of the SAG awards was no exception. Nominated for Best Female Actor in a Drama Series for her starring role as Rue in HBO’s Euphoria, she paired her pastel pink Valentino Haute Couture gown with a Bvlgari bib necklace set with aquamarine, tanzanite and morganite.

Later that night, to present an award, she changed outfits and wore a Bvlgari chocker centrally-set with an oval -shaped aquamarine.

I always say that a red carpet is not quite complete without a Bvlgari Serpenti necklace. Emily Blunt’s Oscar de la Renta gown was styled with a pink gold choker with diamonds and rubies from Bvlgari’s
new collection celebrating Serpenti’s 75th anniversary, along with pavé diamond earrings and a platinum ring.

A similar Bvlgari Serpenti diamond and ruby necklace sold at Sotheby’s in July 2022 for HKD 1,625,000 (approximately £171,375).

 

One can have its own Bvlgari Serpenti collection with this Serpenti Seduttori ring for £9,000 or Serpenti necklace for £20,900.

And who knows, perhaps draped in Bvlgari, the SAG awards might have the pleasure of having you walk down its red carpet next year…

Who wore what, your guide to the BAFTA 2023 glitz

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Since 2010, the Prince of Wales has been the President of the Baftas and on Sunday, the Princess of Wales, was, as always, an example of chic, elegance and forward thinking while restyling an Alexander McQueen dress she previously wore in 2019.

She paired the white one-shouldered gown with Cascading floral earrings by Zara, selling for £17.99.

The Prince of Wales was seen wearing a Rolex while the host of the BAFTAs, Richard E. Grant was spotted wearing two watches: a Tank by Cartier, set to UK time, gifted by his wife and a chronograph set to Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) in memory of his late father.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other dapper attendees included Regé-Jean Page, who combined his fitted suit with diamond double-clips. These clips are a classic of the 1920s and are typically set with brilliant, baguette and calibré-cut diamonds. Calibré-cut stones are gems that have been cut to fit a precise setting.

Sotheby’s had a sale estimate of CHF 4,800-7,500 for this diamond double-clip brooch in July 2022 and in fact advertised it worn in a similar manner as Regé-Jean Page.

He also sported a Cartier watch, Santos de Cartier, which ranges from £3,550 for a small model steel design to £61,000, mounted in rose gold.

Regé-Jean Page was not the only one seen wearing the diamond clips on a suit. Fellow actor Paul Mescal wore a similar clip by Cartier.

Regé-Jean Page was not the only one seen wearing the diamond clips on a suit. Fellow actor Paul Mescal wore a similar clip by Cartier.

Designed by Francesca Amfitheatrof, it is connected to uniform rows of silver Tahitian pearls together with matching earrings. “Your effort to focuson rewearing and repurposing led us to this necklace. Using Tahitian pearls, gold, diamonds and a 23.78 carats Nigerian Tourmaline, all from existing pieces. I loved making this necklace for you!” said Amfitheatrof.

The actress also wore a gold and diamond ring from Louis Vuitton Stellar Times High jewellery collection, for which she has been a brand ambassador since June 2022. Other jewellery designers have reinvented their collection using their legacy designs. “Frédéric Boucheron innovated, over 130 years ago, with feather creations strong in symbolism and style” and at this year’s BAFTAs Angela Bassett looks sublime wearing the brands Plume de Paon earrings.

Measuring 6cm and set with under 6 carats of diamonds, the earrings retail for £94,100 in white gold and £85,500 in rose gold. You can read more about the stunning creations from the designer in my article B for Boucheron.

Other show stoppers included the jewellery by Moussaieff worn by Michelle Yeoh.

Moussaieff is renowned for its exceptional gems, including diamonds weighing up to 100 carats for sale in their Bond Street store. The items worn by the actress did not disappoint when it comes to the wow factor. She was seen wearing a Burmese ruby and diamond bangle, diamond earrings, and Burmese pink sapphire ring to complement her pink Dior outfit. To finalise the look, she opted for a Richard Mille wristwatch. One of the most unique watches by the brand, RM27-04 Rafael Nadal, can be bought for just under £2 million on the secondary market.

If over a £1 million is simply too much to spend on a watch, why not “settle” for a beautiful Omega wristwatch, seen worn by Eddie Redmayne.

The actor is brand ambassador and does his job to perfection! The pink dial steel Omega Constellation currently retails for £2,900.

But a red carpet event would not be complete without some Bvlgari Serpenti necklaces. This was the jewellery of choice for a few actresses, such as Lashana Lynch, who very cleverly wore the seprent’s head in her back with matching earrings (currently out of stock but retailing for £29,500 and set with a little over 2 carats of diamonds). A similar necklace was sold at Sotheby’s for USD920,000 in April 2019.

Julianne Moore effortlessly wore the Bvlgari necklace, or perhaps were there two or three?

Red carpets are always a delight to discover new jewels, and ways of wearing them and pairing them  with outfits. Let there be sparkles and glitz!

Princess Catherine’s jewellery

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From Everyday Mum To Future Queen, A Jewel For Every Occasion

It all started with a proposal…

One of the most famous items of jewellery the Princess of Wales has come to possess, is the “Royal Blue” sapphire engagement ring, which belonged to her mother-in-law, the late Princess Diana. It is probably the most famous sapphire, weighing 12 carats and set within a surround of brilliant-cut diamonds.

In 1981, chosen by the then Prince Charles, for Diana, from the official royal jewellers Garrard, the sapphire ring cost £50,000. Because of the provenance and history of the ring, it has become a priceless piece of jewellery, but one could estimate its current price to be around £500,000.

The world’s most expensive sapphire to sell at auction was sold at Sotheby’s Hong Kong on the 7th October 2015. It weighed 27.68 carats of natural Kashmir origin and made $6,702,564, $242,415 per carat.

For her wedding, Queen Elizabeth II lent the Cartier Halo Tiara to the Duchess. It was made in 1936 and comprises of 739 brilliant-cut diamonds and 149 baguette-cut diamonds, and it was purchased by King George VI (then still Duke of York) for his wife, Elizabeth (who we all know better as the Queen Mother), which she wore to a charity ball at Claridge’s in London, their first gala outing since the official ending of the lengthy court mourning period for the late King George V.

To match Catherine’s engagement ring, the Duke of Cambridge gifted a pair of sapphire and diamond cluster earrings from his mother’s personal collection. The Princess simply had them altered to be drops rather than clips.

The Princess is often seen combining her engagement ring with a classic 33mm Cartier Ballon Bleu wristwatch. Mounted in stainless steel, it is decorated with Roman numerals, fluted crown with a synthetic spinel cabochon, silvered guilloché opaline dial, blued-steel sword-shaped hands, sapphire crystal and steel bracelet. It currently retails for £5,400.

When Catherine gave birth to Prince George, Prince William gifted her the Eclipse diamond ring by Annoushka. It is set with 0.23ct total of diamonds and retails at £1,500.

She wears it in combination with her engagement ring.

For the arrival of Princess Charlotte, the then Duke of Cambridge this time choose another designer, Kiki McDonough, and gifted the Duchess a pair of green tourmaline and green amethyst drop earrings.

She was first spotted wearing these during the couple’s tour of India in 2016. Though these were made-to-order for the Princess, you can currently get a pair of similar earrings (below) from the designer for £3,700. These are green amethyst and diamond earrings, mounted in yellow gold.

The Princess owns several pieces by the designer: 18 pairs of earrings and three necklace to date.

Here are some examples:

The Princess has jewellery for every occasion, as can be expected. Her everyday jewels include the above by designer jewellers, but Catherine also favours high street jewellery, such as the below by Accesorize.

These are no longer available but can be found on eBay ranging from £48 to a whopping £96.96 (plus £10.77 for postage!).

It was rumoured that when Prince Louis was born, the Prince gave Catherine a citrine ring, but it was discovered by fans that the Princess had previously worn it in 2008 while celebrating her birthday.

The ring is beautiful and has meaning for the Princess. She was also seen wearing it for the premiere of the last James Bond film, No Time to Die, to match the golden sequinned gown by Jenny Packham.

Perhaps my favourite dress worn by the Princess.

When the Princess is not at a red carpet event or formal gala, the mother of three has been seen to wear a necklace by Spells of Love retailing for £85, suspending three medallions with the initial of each child.

Catherine also wears a Merci Maman necklace gifted to her by her sister, Pippa, after the birth of Prince George in 2014.

For more formal wear, the Princess has been seen wearing brooches, tiaras and exceptional necklaces, such as the four-row pearl chocker, created using a collection of cultured pearls gifted to the Queen by the Japanese government which Catherine wore to Prince Philip’s funeral in April, 2021. In mourning, the Royals don’t wear colour, so pearls are pure, white, and unflashy. This tradition comes from Queen Victoria, who did not want to wear any colour following the death of her husband Prince Albert.

The late Princess Diana also wore it to a state banquet in the Netherlands.

A very sombre then Duchess of Cambridge wore the historical chocker for the Queen’s funeral earlier this year.

The Princess combined the tiara worn by the late Princess Diana (above) with her engagement ring of course but also the Royal Family Order brooch, representing the late Monarch within a diamond surround.

The tiara, called the Lover’s Knot tiara, was lent to Diana as seen below, then went back to the Queen, and upon her passing, is now worn exclusively by Princess Catherine.

Several of Queen Elizabeth’s II jewels will have been passed down to the Queen Consort and several to Catherine.

Recently, the Princess wowed us with this stunning emerald and diamond choker. She stepped out at the Earthshot Prize Awards in Boston in a bright green gown by Solace London, paired with an emerald-and-diamond choker, once owned by Princess Diana. The choker itself was first owned by Queen Mary in 1911, and later presented to Diana as a wedding gift to Prince Charles in 1981.

In this year’s Christmas pictures, the Princess wears a pair of ruby and diamond cluster earrings, made by Soru in Turkey, and retail for £145.

Whatever the occasion, Princess Catherine never disappoints with her exquisite outfits and matching jewellery. And on this special occasion, I wish her a very Happy Birthday.

Meet the jewellery team – Aurélia & Jenny

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Profile – Aurélia Turrall

Jewellery Specialist

Aurélia has over 20 years’ experience in the auction industry. After graduating from King’s College London with BA Hons, she started her career in Business Development and Client Services at Christie’s and Sotheby’s Paris. She went on to obtain her Graduate Gemmologist degree from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Relocating from Paris to London, Aurélia joined the Jewellery department at Bonhams, dealing with client valuations and auction preparations.

Experience

Aurélia has a Bachelor of Arts degree from King’s College London and a Baccalaureate in Economics and Literature. She speaks English, French being her native language, and some Spanish. Aurelia has also had experience of working with specialist lenders Borro and working for SYMEV (French Association of Auctioneers) in Paris where she was Head of Communications.

About

In her spare time, Aurélia writes feature length screenplays and children books. Being able to value clients’ jewellery is what she loves to do and she has been privileged to handle some unique pieces.

Spot-light

Aurélia’s favourite piece valued was an Art Déco pigeon blood ruby and diamond three-stone ring by Cartier.

Covering

  • London, Greater London
  • East of England
  • South West, South East
  • Guernsey & Jersey

Profile – Jenny Knott

Silver & Jewellery Specialist

Jenny has been working in the Silver and Jewellery industry for over 35 years. She is a graduate of Reading University, where she gained a BA Hons in English literature. She joined Bonham’s auctioneers in Knightsbridge as a post-graduate in the silver, jewellery, clocks and watches departments, specialising in silver and jewellery. Jenny soon rose to the position of deputy head of the department.

Experience

Her career has seen her run Bonham’s highly successful Gentlemen’s sales. Jenny worked with the John Lewis Partnership for 25 years, supplying them with antique jewellery for their retail sales. She also enjoyed working with Bloomingdales in the United States for many years, supplying cufflinks and gentlemen’s accessories. Both these roles involved training their staff.

Furthermore, she worked with the Buckingham Palace team and supplied their store, lectured extensively in the UK (including lectures to NAFAS and the National Association of Jewellers) and in the States on her specialist areas. Jenny has also co-curated a cufflink exhibition with The Goldsmiths Company. She is highly experienced in insurance and probate work and continues alongside doing valuations, supplying antiques, particularly wine related items, to the Rothschild Waddesdon Trust and National Trust.

About

Jenny is very sporty and loves the outdoors. In her spare time, you’re likely to find her out and about, walking her dog, playing tennis, cycling, or skiing down a mountain.

Spot-light

Jenny’s favourite things to value are quirky or unusual antique pieces, both silver and jewellery. She also loves wonderful enamel work be it Fabergé, Scandinavian enamel or French guilloché enamelling.

Covering

  • London, Greater London
  • East of England
  • South West, South East
  • Oxfordshire & Warwickshire