Under the Christmas Tree

Under the Tree: What our team are hoping for this Christmas

We’ve asked our fabulous team of valuers and admin staff, what they would like to find under the christmas tree if money were no object. Find out what they picked below…

Boodles The Knot Medium White Gold Diamond Ring

“After a visit to Boodles in Knightsbridge, I couldn’t stop thinking about this Knot White Gold Diamond Ring – it really caught my eye. The design is just stunning, and the diamonds have such a gorgeous sparkle. It’s the kind of piece that feels timeless, and I’d love to find it under the tree. Another thing I’d be happy with is a pair of single-stone diamond earrings. They’re simple, classic, and would go with pretty much anything. And if I’m being really wishful, I’d also be thrilled with two black labrador puppies. They’d bring so much joy and energy to the house – definitely the best kind of Christmas surprise!”

“I have taken this question rather literally! Dressing the Christmas tree with the children and now grandchildren is a seasonal tradition not only in the Dallas household, but almost everywhere in the Christian world.
Whenever I am in New York in December, I go to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, where there is a 20ft Christmas tree underneath which is grouped a nativity scene made of beautiful 18th Century Neapolitan Creche Figures and animals, which have been loaned by Loretta Howard and her family since 1957.
I’m not sure if one could ever find figures the quality of Loretta Howard’s, but even 19th Century Crib Figures can be in excess of £600 each, so they would cost a small fortune. Please be generous Santa!”

Under the Christmas Tee - Nativity
Under the Christmas Tree - Creche Figures

‘When Christmas comes each year it is a time for not only giving presents, but writing cards and getting in touch with people that you may not have spoken to throughout the year – whilst modern times dictate that you can email, or message – there is still something special about receiving a letter from a loved one, and what better way to do it than with a Montblanc pen. Whilst many people look at the ultra valuable fountain pens that they are well known for – I would opt for the entry level roller ball. With all the style and class of the bigger relations, but with a fraction of the cost”

Alas, what I really, really want under the tree this Christmas is not going to happen…
Although I am a picture man through and through, what people might not know, is that I adore antiquities and early sculpture…. I suppose as dark secrets go, it’s not that bad!
What I saw in an auction in November was a superb Khmer stone figure of a standing Goddess from Cambodia, dated to the 11th-12th AD – estimated at £5,000-8,000. I know this is not a small amount of money (it’s Christmas so who cares about reality!) – but the sculpture was amazing, and a perfect example of art from this period when the Cambodian civilisation was at its peak (anyone been to Angkor Wat?).
The sculpture is so simple and elegant, and the condition is excellent – discounting the missing arms and head! Unfortunately, I was not the only one with good taste – the work was bought by someone else with more money than myself for £8,000 plus fees. All I can hope for is that the buyer was in fact my wife who bought it as my surprise Christmas treat! Fingers crossed!

Khmer stone figure of a standing Goddess from Cambodia

“I would like to see a watercolour or two by Eric Ravilious (British, 1903-1942) under the tree, his work is sublime and uniquely English, his skill with watercolour is second to none and he faithfully follows in the footsteps of the great Masters of 19th Century watercolour painting tradition such as JMW Turner – Around £80 to 120,000 for something like this…”

“I have always loved Christmas and all the traditions that go with it. When I first worked at Bonhams Knightsbridge fresh out of university and earned a pittance, I would cross the road to Harrods once a week and buy a single decoration from their Christmas shop. Since then, I have bought Christmas tree decorations from all over the world and clever Father Christmas has given my children a decoration every year since they were born, so that they now have enough to decorate Christmas trees of their own. I would love therefore to have another decoration to add to my collection, perhaps something from the Georg Jensen range, always stylish and classy. The Scandinavians really do know how to do Christmas. However, if I am really allowed to indulge myself, I would love a delicate Edwardian natural pearl and diamond necklace. Something that could be worn everyday or with evening dress. This would give me great joy, transcend the vagaries of passing fashion and be something to pass on to my daughter in due course. I’ll have to wait and see if I’ve been naughty or nice and what Father Christmas has in store for me!”

Under the Christmas Tree - Annabell

“They are a variation on the classic chandelier earrings but were popular in the 1800’s and often have rose cut, old mine cut and old European cut diamonds which were cut for candlelight and worn by beautiful wealthy women who had daytime and nighttime versions. Nowadays I would happily settle with a pair glittering in the winter evenings at a snug private dinner.
Surviving pairs of these earrings are rare as they were so decadent they have often been broken down during tough times. Therefore, because of their rarity, the value of a good pair is considerable so should any ever come up at auction there is always fierce international bidding and could be argued to be a savvy purchase and investment. I’ve sourced my ball gown, carriage and Prince just waiting for the finishing touch …..at a rough guess £80 – £100k”

“I’d like to find a diamond-set Trinity ring by Cartier. Cartier’s reputation needs no explaining. Their craftmanship remains unique, stylish and guarantees longevity. The Trinity ring is the perfect gift as it comprises the three gold colours, ready to suit any skin tone, and the diamonds add sparkle which is what Christmas is all about when it comes to the ladies’ gifts! It is ingenious of the brand to offer this ring in so many different options. The ring that I would like only has one band pavé-set with diamonds, and can be small or classic.”

Cartier Lapis Lazuli ring

“I would love to see a small wrapped parcel with a red box!!! And inside this striking incredible ring by Cartier. It’s not very old- 1970’s but I just love the design and how wearable it is! It makes a real statement but the fact that it’s made up of lots of small graduated pieces, with lapis lazuli floral top and diamond highlights, makes it delicate at the same time. £25,000- a steal!!!!

“Under the Christmas tree I’d be thrilled to discover a signed or inscribed copy of Ian Fleming’s novel Casino Royale which introduced the world to the now legendary British spy James Bond. The book was first published in 1953 with a dust-jacket devised by the author, and with a modest first print run of 4,728 copies. The book was an enormous success and Ian Fleming went on to write a further 13 novels in the series, which have sold more than 100 million copies to date. A first edition in a dust-jacket will cost from £10,000-30,000 depending on condition, and a signed or inscribed copy from £30,000-125,000 depending on the inscription.”

Under the Christmas Tree - Stephanie

“If i were to find one special piece under the Christmas tree it would be a Cecil Beaton design for the stage production of ‘Coco’ starring Katherine Hepburn. These designs are a combination of three 20th century legends – Cecil Beaton was at the height of his powers as an artist and costume designer. The musical starred the all time leading multi Academy Award winning actress Katherine Hepburn as Coco Chanel. Chanel in turn is the most influential fashion designer of the 20th century! Bonhams recently sold a very good example created for the 1969 production which would be a very special gift.”

“I would just love to receive some vintage Elsa Peretti under the tree! This year has really shone a light on her wonderful designs in the fashion world, I have well and truly been ‘influenced,’ seeing celebrities such as Rosie Huntington-Whiteley stacking up their Peretti bone cuffs over simple and stylised outfits. I personally could see myself wearing one of her lovely vase pendants, a vintage one of course would be preferable but I would be thrilled with this one currently retailing at £4,100.
… If Santa is feeling flush this year, I would definitely love to add to my watch collection! A Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 101 collection wristwatch would be a dream Christmas present! This 1970s example was set throughout with nine carats of baguette cut diamonds – the perfect blend of fine jewellery and watchmaking innovation – the 101 movement was created in 1929 and is renowned for being, still to this day, the world’s smallest mechanical movement ever made – weighing just one gram!

Art Deco Day and Night Ring from the 1920s

“Chinchillas normally cost between £80 and £200 and make excellent pets! Originating from the rocky slopes of The Andes they live together in large colonies, so cute!

Or I’d also love to see an Art Deco Day and Night ring from the 1920s, multiple rings in one! £3,315.51- 1st Dibs”

“If I could receive any gift this holiday season, I would choose this terracotta figure of a court lady from the Tang Dynasty that I was fortunate enough to view in person at Sotheby’s New York during Asia Week this year. The Tang Dynasty has always been one of my favorite periods of Chinese history, not only from an art historical standpoint, but also because of the freedoms that court women enjoyed compared to in the surrounding dynasties. Terracotta sculptures of such women shed insight into their daily lives and interests, such as riding horses, playing music or dancing in women-only ensembles, or displaying the latest fashion trends. Tang court ladies are either portrayed as very thin or round, with the latter shown here in this 8th-century example. Her large zhuimaji (“falling off the horse”) hairstyle is modeled after the concubine Yang Guifei and is characteristic of the period, as are her long sleeves extending well beyond her hands.There is no shortage of Tang ladies in the Asian art market, meaning that unusual or high-quality examples perform significantly better at auction. This Tang lady is notable for her size, condition, and provenance.”

Ashley with Tang Sculpture
Alhambra Bracelet

“A few years ago, 2016 to be precise, Adele headlined on the Pyramid stage at Glastonbury. As always, her performance was exceptional in her typically down-to-earth way, complete with her ‘potty’ mouth as she calls it! But apart from her singing and language, another thing stood out for me – her bracelet! Her outfit that night was a lovely Boho style dress, complemented with this lovely bracelet that I had to Google to find out what it was, as I’d never seen one before! Since then, everyone is wearing them, including Queen Camilla, who can regularly be seen wearing her turquoise example! I’m quite sure that Queen Camilla’s will not be fake, which probably can’t be said for all the women and girls I see wearing them now! It is of course the Vintage Alhambra bracelet with 5 motifs.”

“As a massive Prince fan, I would love to receive a copy of the new book Prince: Icon. Prince: Icon is a photography book curated by Steve Parke, former art director at Paisley Park, and contributions from those close to him, with new and rarely seen images of the artist, from album covers, performances, candid snapshots and portraits to name a few. I was fortunate to attend a Prince concert when I was in high school and his music, art and creativity has continued to inspire me since then. This book would be a perfect addition to my Prince music and memorabilia collection. ”

Prince Icon book
Under the tree - lapland trip

“I am a big kid at heart and love the magic of Christmas each year. What I would really love is to visit Lapland and pretend for a few days that it’s all real – completely immerse myself in all the Christmassy goodness. I would visit Father Christmas, feed the reindeer, travel by sleigh, play in the snow and drink cocoa by a roaring fire. I can’t think of anything I’d enjoy more!”

Unveiling the Brilliance Lab-Grown Diamonds

When is a diamond not a diamond?

What do you call diamonds that are not formed underground but grown in a controlled environment that mimics the conditions under which natural diamonds develop? So, are they synthetic, lab-grown or factory grown or simply ‘diamonds’?

First of all, lets look at how you ‘grow’ those divine diamonds.

There are two popular ways to grow a diamond. Both involve starting with the ‘seed’ of another diamond. The first lab diamond was made in the 1960’s and the industry has changed massively in size and complexity in the intervening 65 years.

The growing of LGD’s is a little like the VHS and Betamax fight in the 1980’s. The first option is using a High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) system, where the seed is then placed amidst some pure graphite carbon and exposed to temperatures of about 1,500C and pressurised to approximately 1.5 million pounds per square inch in a chamber. The alternative model to make diamonds is called Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD). This was slower out of the starting blocks but the quality and size of diamonds produced using this method is arguably superior to HPHT.

This system involves putting the seed in a sealed chamber filled with carbon-rich gas and heating to around 800C. Under these conditions the gases begin to “stick” to the seed, growing a diamond carbon atom by atom.

No one knows quite yet who will win the fight like VHS did back in the day. Vast research development and investment is being put into both practises with neither side prepared to admit defeat yet.

LGD’s represent nature at its most perfect, at a fraction of the price of a natural diamond.

Retail

  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut LGD in 2021 – £16,500
  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut LGD in 2023 – £7,500
  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut certificated natural in 2021 – £55,000
  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut certificated natural in 2023 – £70,000

Some of the questions we are asked are ‘Are they real diamonds?’ and ‘Can you tell them apart from a natural diamond?’

The answer is yes to the first question. They test as a diamond (2.412 on a refractometer) visually and chemically identical to a natural diamond.

However, they can be told apart by those in the know.

Using LWUV and SWUV (long wave ultraviolet and short wave UV) the florescence of a factory made stone is an absolute giveaway. They often have a strong turquoise or purple colour that you never find in the natural world. The growth structure can also give away a man-made diamond because they were grown so quickly, the atomic structure does not have the same chance to settle into a classic framework.

The pricing of diamonds, whether natural or labgrown, depends on various factors such as carat weight, cut, colour, and clarity. While lab-grown diamonds are generally more affordable than their natural counterparts, the price difference is becoming more pronounced as technology advances and demand grows.

Natural diamonds are esteemed for their rarity, formed over millions of years deep within the Earth. Lab-grown diamonds, despite sharing the same physical and chemical properties, are sometimes perceived as less valuable due to their manufactured origin. Costs over the last two years has dropped in value of these stones while natural diamonds are keeping their value.

The latest findings propose that there is very little resale value for a LGD. Many auction houses will not take them and many of the large fine jewellery houses will not sell them including De Beers who set up their own LGD factory and company for their ‘Lightbox’ ranges. They stopped making engagement rings in 2022.

The marked retail price difference gives rise to the challenge in ensuring transparency and proper disclosure to the consumer. Some critics argue that buyers may not always be adequately informed about whether the diamond they are purchasing is natural or lab-grown.

Due to the price differential this could be a devastating find?

Did you know; if a diamond is marketed or sold or valued as a ‘diamond’, without a pre-fix such as lab-grown, synthetic etc, then it is assumed to be an earth grown natural diamond? All lab-grown diamonds of any shape or size must have a pre-fix to aid a consumer’s educated decision process.

During a recent valuation, a diamond ring was presented from a charming young man, who had purchased it to propose to his girlfriend. However, during our appraisal, Annabell had to give him the devastating news that it was not a natural diamond. He had purchased the stone for £38,000 when infact,the price should have been around £9,000– did the jewellers know it was lab grown?

This type of miss-selling has caused the potential for market confusion. Consumers might face challenges distinguishing between natural and lab-grown diamonds, impacting the perceived value of their purchases. So, it is important to buy your jewellery from a recognised jewellery company.

Having reviewed some of the challenges for LGDs verses natural diamonds, they are still hugely popular. In August 2023, LGD amounted to 50% of all diamonds purchased in America. Pandora, who are one of the world’s largest jewellery companies, uses LGD for many of their designs. Gems TV and ‘fashion jewellery’ brands are developing price sensitive ranges for LGDs and because of the size of the market and the lower margins being made, the producers are concentrating on melee size cut goods for watches and ‘halo’ rings and larger (2ct plus) ultra high quality diamonds, such as E & F colour VVS clarity.

So, are Lab-Grown Diamonds here to stay… the rise of lab-grown diamonds is indicative of a broader trend toward sustainable and ethical practices in the jewellery industry. While traditional diamonds maintain their allure and value, lab-grown diamonds are carving a niche for themselves, driven by consumer demand for more price sensitive choices. As technology continues to advance and consumers prioritise ethical considerations, lab-grown diamonds are likely to remain a significant player in the market. However, the coexistence of natural and lab-grown diamonds is expected, with each catering to different preferences and values. The issues associated with lab-grown diamonds against natural stones are multifaceted, touching upon perceived value, ethical considerations, disclosure, and market dynamics.

Will natural diamond values increase due to scarcity? Will women prefer to have a natural diamond on their finger rather than a lab-grown diamond or will price decide?

We wait and watch!

Coral…. Did you know?

There are six types of precious coral from deepest red to porcelain white and none are endangered.

Did you know that Mediterranean Rubrum coral is still dived for by hand by around 50 licenced divers at a depth of 50 metres? Japanese and Taiwanese coral is even deeper; at a depth of 80 metres to 300 metres and can only be harvested by a submersible with strict quotas.

It is reef and shallow water coral, such as golden and black coral, that are endangered. These are known as common coral and reside on the global CITES protection list.

Did you know that coral was used in Rome as early as 1500 BC? It has been used as amulets in the Catholic faith for centuries and revered in Buddhism. To this day it is an expression of status and wealth in Benin in Africa, Poland and Ukraine and it has been used as currency across the world.

In the Mediterranean, coral harvesting has been documented since the 15th century and its secrets and systems were passed down through each generation of a family. This industry was particularly buoyant at Torre Del Greco, a beautiful fishing village on the slopes of Vesuvius. Which for decades in the 1800’s saw almost every local family involved in the coral trade in some form from diving to forming the beads to selling the strings of coral. This development and success of the coral industry at Torre del Greco was arguably thanks to Ferdinand IV of Bourbon, who worked to regulate the fishing of coral from this area of Naples and protect local jobs. He recognised the huge demand for beautiful coral jewellery and religious accessories, the ownership of which was seen as a status symbol across Spain, Italy, Poland and Ukraine, which lasts to this day. Look through several Old Master paintings and you may well find coral pieces to denote protection and wealth.

Even good things come to an end and the Mediterranean monopoly on coral supply was to change in the 1870’s when a different species of coral, ‘Momo’ coral was discovered in Japan and later in Taiwan and Hawaii. These finds would open up coral appreciation to the world and the largest market for coral is now the Far Eastern market.

Collectors are starting to wake up to the beauty of coral that Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpels have been giving to their high net worth clients for over a century.

Precious coral, particularly antique and vintage pieces, are becoming very sought after and gaining good prices at European auctions. Keep an eye out for depth of colour and condition, and a smattering of diamonds is always nice too.

Vintage Coral

Did you know that the size of coral necklaces depend on the type and size of coral branch? Mediterranean coral can grow up to eight millimetres in diameter, however Midway coral from Hawaii up to 20 millimetres. Each piece of harvested coral from deep in the ocean is cleaned, divided and polished by hand into perfect beads, then matched into earrings and necklaces. It can take over a year to make a larger sized necklace.

A new harvest of Rubrum coral from the Mediterranean at the Livorino workshops

There is a huge market in China and the Far East for the top quality Oxblood and Momo coral pieces. So much of the finest coral will make it’s way there and prices rival that of fine jade.

However, you may well have vintage pieces in your jewellery box and I strongly suggest you review their value. It may just surprise you.

The one that got away…

Hindsight is a wonderful thing.

Back in 2005, I was newly married, London based and high on life. Money was tight, but we were cool. I’ve always loved poster art. Remember Athena? Later New York subway graffiti album cover art and band posters. Maybe because that’s all I could afford. At that time we read alternative magazines, went to all manner of clubs, listened to house music and drank Smirnoff ice.

However, the Country was also at war. Mobile phone and personal computers were becoming commonplace, and the traditional methods of communication and control were on the wane. There felt a real burgeoning of youthful expression against the ‘accepted norm’. Artists such as Faile, Eulus and Banksy, to name but a few, were hosting the odd show and having read an article on Banksy, an early Internet search took me to the now notorious and now defunct ‘Pictures on Walls’.

On their website was Banksy’s CND Soldiers and Jack and Jill. Signed copies were £156.50. I forget how much the unsigned copies were.

So, for my birthday we went all in and bought a signed Banksy CND soldiers. Limited Edition of 350. Arrived rolled up in a tube! It shows two soldiers in full combat gear surreptitiously painting a red CND sign on a wall. I loved it. It said everything about my views on the current war, the bold colours, glorious details and it was subversive in a very nice way!

We had it framed and it hung in our house, carefully shaded from sunlight for 10 years.

By 2016, I was a single mum of two boisterous boys whose parkour moves were practised upon all pieces of furniture and under the gaze of the, often wonky, CND soldiers. I had followed in the rise of Banksy and one day realised I really should insure it. An art broker friend suggested to have it insured for between £7,000 and £10,000. I was stunned. I simply did not have the money to ensure the picture, coupled with the fact I needed a new kitchen.

So, with the help of my broker, a nice Belgian gentleman offered an astounding £14,000 (inc fees) and also offered to pay for packing and transport. I did offer it to the Andipa gallery in Knightsbridge, but they felt £7,000 was the most they would go to.

So, off my Banksy went to Belgium, as part of a pension pot, and I built a lovely kitchen. However, within a couple of years the same picture went for £32,000 at auction and now commands in the region of £50,000.

Yes, I am gutted I sold the picture, as it would be in my pension pot now. However, that piece of art gave a single mum the chance to have a new heart to her home. To feel good about having people over and to look to the future. The one that got away, yes, but left great memories, and sometimes that might be more worthwhile.

Pandemic Pearls – Biggest shock for Years?

Pearls – the gem that will go with everything, crosses the generations and decades. Safe, predictable, eternal. Is now the time to reassess their value?

Thanks to the Chinese market, there has been a growing production of quality fresh-water and saltwater pearls over the last decade. The downside of this monumental growth is that the market is arguably becoming saturated.

This is borne out in the price of pearls at auction. Japanese salt water Akoya, good Chinese fresh water and even small Tahitian pearls keep on under-performing and can be picked up for next to nothing.

This situation may be about to undergo a seismic change.

If I can cast your mind back to 2020, the world literally stopped. Not only the obvious things such as air travel and carefree shopping, but the thousands of ‘route to market’ supply lines. This included the people who support and make those supply lines run like clockwork – Normality went on hold.

Pearl Creation

The industry of Pearl farming and production walks a delicate tightrope between man and nature. There are many different types of pearl bearing molluscs, who have their own specific growth cycle, but to make a generalisation each pearl mollusc is either dived for by hand or is born, raised and seeded in stringently checked temperatures with the correct food, space and daylight. This process generally can take between 2-4 years of consistent care and attention – this was not possible during the pandemic.

During the global lockdowns, pearl growers, specialists, itinerant labourers and their vital support network all returned home. For the first time in decades, the seasonal flow of global pearl farming ground to a halt as there simply were not enough people to assure the continuity especially for South Sea, Tahitian and fine quality pearls.

Take the case of Paspaley in Northern Australia, a threegeneration pearl farming family who produce some of the most beautiful pearls in the world. They were so affected by the pandemic that they applied for and received a licence for specialised staff to continue working, but they were only allowed to work on boats moored offshore so there was no chance of Covid spreading. Even with this intervention their normal levels of production were curtailed.

This seismic shock to the usual farming life has caused a gap in the pearl production world and a shadow over future yields over the next few years.

Only time will tell what the quality and yield will be but it is understood by those in the know that it will take 2-3 years to get ‘back to normal’.

The basic economic principal of supply and demand may come to bear with reduced gem quality pearls coming to the market where the prices may harden and quite likely increase. Not only will this hopefully invigorate the auction pearl market but also remind pearl owner’s to have their pieces re-valued. Depending on how this industry is affected, Covid may have caused the pearls in your jewellery box to be very under-valued. A once predictable and safe commodity may have a trick in the tail and prove to be more valuable than they once were.