Keep on Running…a look at the Sneaker (Trainers!) Collector’s Market

Why do people collect? Sometimes it can be a fascination with a subject matter, and sometimes a desire to be a completist – to own everything produced by a certain artist, or manufacturer.

A few years ago, I was asked to value a sneaker (that’s trainers here in the U.K.) collection and my eyes were opened to a burgeoning sub culture that is on the increase and shows absolutely no sign of abating.

The collection comprised around 250 pairs of mint (‘boxfresh’ in sneaker speak) shoes that had been bought as art pieces and collectables, rather than something anyone would ever dream of wearing. It included rare pieces from manufacturers that we all know, such as Nike and Adidas but with particularly limited runs and designed by musicians and traditional artists.

The collector was keen to tell me about the way in which the market has changed over the years, and nowadays it involved waiting in line at a retailer and being allowed to purchase only one pair of sneakers. On some occasions, he had recruited friends to go with him so that he could buy more than one pair. The value of the shoes traditionally doubled as soon as they left the store and could be seen for sale on internet sites within hours.

signed pair of Nike Air Jordan 1s

Signed pair of Nike Air Jordan 1s

For insurance, the collection was valued at £480,000. This no doubt will have changed in the last 24 months, with markets changing in the same way as traditional art and new designers dominating the hierarchy of sneaker chic, it’s a culture that just keeps on running…
Even Sotheby’s on-line store features a trainers section. In fact, the signed pair of Nike Air Jordan 1s above have become the most expensive trainers sold at auction, fetching over £460,000 at their online auction of 17 May 2020.

The Nike Air Jordan 1s were game-worn by Michael Jordan in 1985 after being made exclusively for the legendary NBA Chicago Bulls player.

Nike Air Mag Back to the Future 2016 – £26,500

One of recent year´s most famous sneakers – owned by, for example, the Slovakian rapper Rytmus. This reference to the legendary movie Back to the Future was released back in 2011 in a quantity of 1500 pairs. Several years later, in 2016, fans demanded a re-release, which they got – but only 89 more pairs were made, which pushed the Nike Air Mag Back to the Future 2016´s into the top 10 of the most expensive sneakers

Nike Air Mag Back to the Future 2016

Nike Air Mag Back to the Future 2016

Nike Moon Shoe – over £330.000

This shoe was designed by Nike´s co-founder Bill Bowerman for the 1972 Olympics qualifiers. It’s the only remaining preserved pair of this shoe, and it is also unique because the sole was literally made in a waffle maker!The sneakers were auctioned off at Sotheby’s by collector Miles Nadal in July 2019, officially making them the world’s most expensive shoes for many.

Nike Moon Shoe 1972

Nike Moon Shoe 1972

Converse Fastbreak, worn by Michael Jordan – £144,000

This is where we start reaching astronomical prices. This crazy price tag wasn´t caused by the sneaker´s rarity or the use of expensive materials. The third pair on our list was owned by Michael Jordan himself – he won the 1984 Olympic games in the USA in these shoes.

Converse Fastbreak worn by Michael Jordan

Converse Fastbreak worn by Michael Jordan

Air Jordan 12 OVO (Drake Edition) – £75,600

What you see in front of you is the result of a collaboration between the Jordan brand and rapper Drake’s brand OVO (October’s Very Own). At first glance, they don’t seem like anything special. However, at a Toronto Raptors game, Drake gave a pair of these sneakers (with a retail price slightly over $200) to one lucky fan, who managed to sell the shoe for an incredible $100000 on eBay, which made them the second most expensive Jordan sneaker at the time. A lesson to be learned from this is that going to a Toronto Raptors game might be worth it, not only for the entertainment value.

Air Jordan 12 OVO Drake Edition

Air Jordan 12 OVO Drake Edition

 

Film Posters

 

With the Sotheby’s James Bond Poster sale on 5th of November this year, and a huge collection going under the hammer on the same day at Prop Store the market for movie posters has never been stronger, but is it the artwork, the iconic characters, or in fact the memories surrounding the time of their release that fans are buying into?

Dr No movie poster

Dr No movie poster, 1962

One of the highlights at the Sotheby’s sale is of course the original Bond film; “Dr No”- it’s 1962 production created one of the most valuable and recognisable franchises of all time and is still referred to as one of the best of the films ever released – the much delayed latest offering may give it a run for its money, but it’s doubtful. With a top estimate of £25,000 the UK issued poster outshines its American counterpart not only in value, but in style – these posters were designed to bring attention to the masses and of course the ever suave Connery holding a smoking pistol surrounded by scantily clad young ladies certainly did just that.

Away from the Bond sale, Prop Store has some iconic moments in film history all through the sale – “Jaws” from 1975 must be one of the most recognised film posters of all time, with the lone swimmer in the targets of the elusive shark ready to pounce, it instantly brings the legendary theme by John Williams to mind and probably helped to terrify a generation of beach swimmers for years to come, surprisingly with a low estimate of only a few hundred pounds, it seems good value to me.

Jaws movie poster

Jaws movie poster, 1975

So why has the humble poster become so valuable? The truth is that it’s simplicity and infinitely researched creation is designed to appeal to so many people that having the images of a promotional studio item is very appealing – one could argue (and many probably will) that an original film poster could be as important a piece of art socially as many of the wonderful pieces of top tier art that we see every year, just less exclusive.

So what poster would I have on my walls? Well, unfortunately for my wallet – Prop Store happens to have an original poster from “Raiders of The Lost Ark” the first in the fantastic trio of 1980s adventure classics (note purposeful non inclusion of the 2008 effort) and with a lead character so important to the era, one forgets that Indiana Jones wasn’t even part of the title for the first film.

Raiders of the Lost Ark Movie Poster

Raiders of the Lost Ark movie poster

An antiquity searching, Nazi killing, mid 20th century archaeologist with a battle cry of “It belongs in a museum!” Seems an unlikely hero, but for a young history obsessed schoolboy in Gloucestershire “Indie” quickly became my idol, and whilst my searches have never quite matched his, I would like to think there is still time….

Out of the Closet – are your clothes insured adequately?

As a general valuer, I still find it remarkable that the most shut off and private room of the house, is usually the one that hides the biggest mistakes, faux pas, successes, lucky finds – and ultimately valuable items in the property.

The humble wardrobe has for years been the item that comes last in a hierarchy of importance throughout the home – after paintings, sculpture and antiques it would almost seem vulgar to add up those collections of cashmere jumpers and boxed sets of Agent Provocateur underwear that you haven’t quite found the right time for.


So why is the wardrobe often overlooked? One could argue that accumulation plays a big part in this – if a client spends £2000 on a coat, would they contact their broker? Maybe not, but after five years of a new winter warmer every year, that figure starts to rise rapidly…also clothing just being a functional item went out in The Stone Age, clothes have been about style, exclusivity, and quality for centuries and that has created a fairly modern phenomenon – the clothes collector.

Whilst we all have items in the closet that hardly ever get used (for me it is a pair of trainers, used exclusively from January 1st – 7th annually, and a rather ill-advised pale blue suit bought for a garden party in the mid noughties) there are clients of mine that seasonally will spend over £100,000 on clothing and it will only be worn once or twice – this isn’t unusual, and strangely it seems to be becoming more common.

If you haven’t read my previous article on Birkin handbags, please do – it will give you an insight into this fascinating subject and go some distance to explaining why these items receive so much attention and earth-shattering prices. Shoes for many people fall into a similar category of not just simple things that you purchase and wear, but footwear that is lusted after, desired, and envied.

With all of these things considered, does that mean that every HNW client has £1,000,000 of clothing – no, but what it does mean is that a lot of these clients have not considered that the suit they had made at Henry Poole will no longer cost them £2,000, and that pair of Ferragamo’s may have even doubled since they bought them before that cruise, even a simple pair of jeans is almost £100 these days, and I wonder how many people have factored in swimwear or scarves?

What is very clear is that today’s collectables can be displayed, or worn and they all can still change value at an astonishing rate and need to be reviewed regularly. One of my current favourite trends is the astonishing market for rare basketball sneakers (that’s trainers in English) where the secondary market surpasses even Rolex for the biggest increase in value as soon as they walk, or at least are carried out of the shop.

Whilst a valuer cannot go through every drawer in a dressing room, it’s important to establish the client’s taste and style. Getting to know the client and their spending habits is vital to an accurate valuation – that and a keen eye for a pair of Gucci loafers…

Hermes Birkin Handbag

Hermes – Birkin Handbags

20th Century Iconic Art, without the Baggage

A handbag is by definition an item of luggage that carries one’s items in a simple and yet practical manner. However, in the world of designer and haute couture pieces, it’s much, much more than that.

In the last 20 years, collecting has waned in numerous fields, long gone are the days when that ultra-desirable piece of porcelain from Eastern Germany caused a furore in the auction world… there are however a new breed of collectors who consider exclusivity, style and quality to be of a far higher imperative than age or other factors.

The best place to start with any overview of handbags is the classic Birkin by Hermes. Whilst it is nowhere near the oldest, or most original bag on the market – it defines what has become the phenomenon of collecting what many might consider to be an everyday item.

Hermes Classic Birkin 35

The Birkin was originally designed by Jean-Louis Dumas in the early 1980s and named after the English actress and sometime muse of Serge Gainsbourg, Jane Birkin. Designed to contain all that a lady needed from make up to a hairbrush, and no doubt a few packets of Gauloises.

Since its initial launch the Birkin has become what can only be described as the near definition of a Veblen item, with demand far outstripping availability. It was an instant investment from day one and many collectors now long for those early bags that represented the ethos of the Birkin, in maybe its purest form.

When looking at collections of handbags, one is often struck by the lack of use that these items actually have. I have clients that purchase a £25,000 bag for Royal Ascot, and it will see the light of day for maybe 12 hours at most, then become relegated to the ‘also ran’ shelf at the back of the undoubtably extensive wardrobe.

Hermes Birkin exclusive design by George Condo – gifted by Kanye West to Kim Kardashian

What still shocks me, and usually the owners of these glamorous items, is their ever-increasing values. The most basic, (if the word ‘basic’ should ever be applied to a Birkin), usually increases by at least 15% each year. The very nature of the way that these are produced means that replacing an item, like for like, is pretty much impossible unless you can find one on the ever increasing (but often over inflated) secondary collectible handbag market.

Naturally, over the years bags that have been long since discontinued have gained an almost legendary, mythical status with some exotic skin models reaching astronomical figures, well into the £100,000s bracket. What’s strange is that there are still some bags out there that were purchased still in private collections that are used every day, and the owners have no idea of their potential value.

As a valuer I see, on a weekly basis, these iconic, almost legendary pieces of artwork relegated to a general contents category when it comes to insurance, when in fact they exemplify a modern collectible – certainly not just baggage.

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Patek Phillipe and Audemars Piguet with Gerald Genta – The King of Haute Horlogerie and Design

 

Is Gerald Genta the greatest wristwatch designer of all time? It’s a question that will cause debates around the watchmaking world, however what cannot be denied is that with a CV like his, it would certainly take a career of some distinction to stand against him in any serious argument.

Gerald Genta’s designs for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (left) and the Patek Philippe Nautilus

Starting at Universal Geneve in the 1950s, Genta started a trend of creating some of the most instantly recognisable watches of the 20th Century, with one his first pieces being the understated and yet iconic Polerouter Microtor – setting the tone for much of his later and much lauded career.
Whilst the 1970s could be (and are by many) considered a decade that taste forgot, Genta was inspired and came up with two de facto design classics – still revered today and most probably will be in production for quite a while – The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1971, and the Patek Phillipe Nautilus in 1976.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 4100, 1981

These watches completely changed everyone’s view on luxury watch manufacturing, for many years the definition of which was a precious metal case, with as many complications as one could muster, or even understand. Initially both watches were cases in stainless steel and the measurements at the time were fairly hefty – whilst a 39mm case in 2020 is nothing to get excited about, back in the early 70s it was a complete revelation.
At ten times the cost of a Rolex Submariner, this watch was pulling no punches and it was clear what market it was presenting itself to, it wasn’t a tool watch, it was a clear luxury style piece – but with all the foundations of heritage with the brand.
It was during this period he also worked on designs for IWC and Cartier. Whilst all of his pieces had a certain je ne sais quoi, they all were unique and retained the Genta DNA that set them apart from the more pedestrian offerings from the big players, something that certainly was needed during the quartz crisis that nearly destroyed the Swiss watch industry.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700, 1981

The joy of both the Nautilus and the Royal Oak is that there are models to suit all budgets – from under £10,000 for a gold and steel version of both models, right up to over a million pounds for some incredibly ‘esoteric’ models encrusted with more diamonds than the average royal tiara. The key with these both the Patek Phillipe and the Audemars Piguet is knowing the models and their differences and desirability factor – it can be tens of thousands of pounds difference, for what may look to the untrained eye, a very similar timepiece.
Genta carried on designing, and running moderately successful watch brands for many years after the groundbreaking designs of his portfolio became as recognisable as the brand they represented, and inspired many ‘tribute’ style watches for years to come. Gerald Genta died in 2012 and left not only a heritage for many brands, but a basis of design that keeps on reinventing itself, and will for years to come.

Comic Valuations

Comics – No Laughing Matter!

Superman, Ironman, Spider-Man, and Batman…..a multi billion dollar film industry that has stood the test of time and still attracts new fans on a weekly basis. With four Avengers films alone taking up spaces in the top ten highest-grossing films of all time, and Black Panther just outside at number eleven it’s an ever growing franchise with spin off series, merchandise and products every year.

Most fans are aware that originally these characters were invented for comic books published by either DC Comics, or Marvel Comics, with Superman arriving back in 1939 and Batman a year later. However, more recently we are seeing clients looking at Comic Books as an interesting and inventive form of investment with prices of rare and mint comics making well into the millions.
The collecting of comic books is not a new thing, generations of fans have been scouring auctions and trading for years, but in the last 20 years, with the advent of the internet , the comic book has become a fantastically transportable asset with a great worldwide audience – much like the films.

There are three factors to consider when looking at a comic book;
Least importantly is provenance – whilst there are great collections throughout the world, it only attracts a small premium.

Superman #1 (DC 1939) 5.0 graded Valued for insurance £750,000

Secondly is rarity – these were books meant for reading and as such so few survived probably more than a month before the next issue was out with the next instalment depicting the journey of our favourite superhero.

The last and possibly most important is condition – collectors want the best and will pay for that privilege. In most arenas condition is subjective, however in comics it is not – there are rules and standards that dictate what grade it should be given. In the higher echelons of comic books the difference between a 9.4 and a 9.5 can be as much as £50,000 so accuracy is vital.

Avengers #1 (Marvel 1963) 9.6 graded Valued for insurance £420,000

Fashion and the huge film industry plays a huge part in the value fluctuation of certain books, and we have personally seen comics increase in value by as much as 60% overnight when one of the film studios announce their next project with a plethora of new Hollywood superstars. What this does mean is that regular valuation is vital in order to protect these assets, and we would always recommend a 12 monthly appraisal with the higher value comics.

The Importance of Having your Watches Valued

You can buy a perfectly reliable and accurate watch for £100 or you can buy one for £1million plus.   Of the top 10 brands, most have about 10 ranges each with about 10 models – plus the myriad of other lesser brands, so getting watch valuation prices accurate is very important.

It’s in the makers’ interest to ring the changes and bring out new models on a regular basis – no self-respecting Manchester United footballer’s wife could be seen today wearing a 2010 model Cartier watch and it’s not often a new model will sell for less than its predecessor, so a watch can quickly become underinsured.

With very, very few exceptions the second-hand value of a watch can be as little as a half or quarter of its new retail price of the current comparable model.  So from both the insured’s and the insurers’ points of view (and the watch valuer’s too!) it is very important to establish if the policy offers ‘new for old’ or ‘like for like’ cover.

There are only two UK based watch manufacturers so 99% of watches sold here are imported so are subject to currency fluctuation. Precious metal and gem stone prices are also prone to price changes – and as most of the top brand models are hand made the cost of skilled watch makers is an important factor in a watch’s retail price.

Condition can be an important factor and should be checked and commented on in a watch valuation.  Particularly in a precious metal watch with a bracelet rather than a leather strap where clasps, buckles and links can wear over time, there’s a risk of the watch falling off with consequent damage or loss.  Also, gem set watches should be checked for claw and setting wear – to source a suitable replacement stone and get it mounted by a skilled setter can be a very expensive exercise.

watch_1

Watch fakes (or replicas!)

I must mention fakes – or replicas as the makers prefer to call them! 30 years ago the first Rolex fakes came on the scene and even to the untrained eye they were unconvincing, they weighed half what an original did, they often had quartz movements rather than automatic and  some even had spelling mistakes on the dial.  The 18 carat gold parts of the original watches were made of thin gold plate which could wear through in a couple of months. The new ones are very much better and can be embarrassingly convincing, however most of the better watch brands will have a numbering system, stamping an individual serial number on a watch and in some cases the model range number, so with a bit of research we can be pretty sure. Just a quick ‘trick of the trade’ note on fakes – since about 1980 all Cartier watches with roman numerals will have a secret ‘signature’ on the dial. You may need a quizzing glass or similar but look carefully at all the straight lines of the roman numerals and one of them will not be a line but is the name Cartier spelt out in tiny letters – it’s a detail very hard and expensive to replicate. Cartier change where this ‘signature’ is each year, so you can get an approximate date for the watch, also.
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If the insured is in the position of having to buy a replacement for a lost or stolen watch we do recommend that for the major brands they go to an official agent.  There are many ‘on line’ sites offering very tempting discounts, but problems can occur with warranty and repair claims. Also, in the event of wishing to sell the watch, having original receipts, paperwork and boxes will add value.

We normally recommend an annual review and a revaluation every 3 years and a condition inspection every three.

Our watch valuation document will give full details of the watch, noting individual serial numbers and model references where possible, and a close-up photograph, so in the event of a claim or a ‘post loss’ identification situation.

Call us today to enquire about an appointment on 01883 722736 or email [email protected] or visit our website www.doerrvaluations.co.uk