Lunar New Year

Lunar New Year, which begins on 10 February in 2024, is the largest festival in many East and Central Asian cultures. Lunar New Year typically falls on the second new moon following the winter solstice. In China, this festival is also called Chinese New Year or the Spring Festival. Each year highlights one of twelve animals in the Shengxiao, the Chinese Zodiac.

This year will be the year of the dragon, one of the most prevalent symbols in East and Central Asian material culture. People born in the year of the dragon are characterized as intelligent, lucky, and charismatic. Dragons have historically been depicted in forms such as embroidery, porcelain, sculpture, paintings, jade, ivory, and furniture.

Dragons are particularly popular in embroidery, one of East Asia’s oldest decorative arts traditions, originating in China during the late Neolithic period. From the first century CE, silk embroidery technology spread to Japan, Korea, and Central Asia. Throughout the centuries, Chinese symbols, imagery, and embroidery techniques continued to have significant influences on embroidery practices across Asia. Dragons, also originating in China, have a long history in East Asian art forms. Dragon imagery dates to at least the Zhou period (1046-256 BCE), where it functioned as a totem to which small agricultural clans prayed for rain and protection from fires. This is why many East Asian dragons, such as those depicted in the much later Meiji tapestry below, are often depicted in ponds or seas. Water dragons symbolize prosperity for the owner. While imperial robes are the most famous form of dragon embroidery today, everyday water dragons comprise a far larger quantity of objects that have survived. This is particularly a result of the Ming Dynasty’s (1368-1644) rapidly growing merchant class, which increased the demand for silk embroidery and continued into the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).

In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, there was unprecedented Western demand for Chinese and Japanese silk embroidery, as China and especially Japan opened foreign trade. Export markets were already popular within Asia and Europeans had long enjoyed fine examples of handwoven dragon embroideries. As foreign demand grew, China and Japan mass produced silk embroidery in export markets for the first time. Improved technology and the advent of embroidery factories also contributed to this rapidly increasing market, which catered to Western tastes. In the early 20th century, silk was China’s largest export commodity. By the 1930s, this demand subsided due to the rise of synthetic fibers. Today, regardless of the medium, dragons continue to enjoy popularity in Asia and throughout the world.

Old Master Sales December 2023

The December Old Master Sales were rather lacklustre with the three major London salerooms, Christie’s, Sotheby’s and Bonhams reporting combined totals for their five sales of £55.8M, just less than December 2022’s feeble total of £56.3M.

One can hardly blame consignors for not wishing to offer great paintings at auction in the current geo-political climate. These totals would have been nearly 40% lower but for an early Rembrandt of the Adoration of the Magi sold by Sotheby’s to the guarantor for £9.5M and two Canalettos (1697-1768) (not a pair, but part of a set of Venetian views), sold at Christie’s for £8.2M. They had never previously been published and were, therefore, ‘fresh’ to the market.

Interestingly, the Rembrandt at Sotheby’s, had been offered by Christie’s Amsterdam, two years ago, as ‘Circle of Rembrandt’, with an estimate of €10-15,000. It was knocked down to the Sotheby’s consignor for €860,000. So, somebody else had recognised its potential, too.

My favourite painting from all the sales was the most unusual ‘The Virgin in Prayer’, by the enigmatic Flemish artist, Michiel Sweerts (1618-1664).

This is a picture within a picture. Sweerts paints himself, peeping shyly round the edge of a framed picture of the Virgin in Prayer, which he has painted and, which he is showing to you, the onlooker, with a cloudy sky behind him. It is a touching picture, not only for the sacred nature of the central subject, but because here is the apprehensive artist, watching anxiously to gauge your response to his painting. It made a well-deserved £1.4M hammer price, 3 ½ times the lower estimate.

If the market is wary of exposing Old Master masterpieces at the current time, no such worries affected the group of beautiful Rembrandt etchings collected by the discerning Sam Josefowitz. There were some great rarities offered amongst the 70 lots offered in a dedicated catalogue and every print was in excellent condition. This was a collection for connoisseurs and museum curators. Every lot sold, mostly well above the top estimate and 51 world records were achieved for individual subjects. This catalogue and the 5 prints offered in their Old Master sale, grossed Christie’s £10.2M including buyer’s premium. The front cover lot of a Sea Shell, (Conus Marmoreus), which measures 97 x 132 mm and is an etching, engraving and drypoint on laid paper, made £730,800 with buyer’s premium. It is a natural object of profound beauty and simplicity. It was the top price of the sale and proves that whatever market conditions prevail, masterpieces will find their true level.

Year of the Dragon

In East Asian cultures, the Year of The Dragon in the Zodiac is marked with power, energy and fortune, with strength and intelligence assured of those born during this period.

Whilst every symbol holds a special place in East Asian cultures, the dragon has always held a significant place in the nations folklore and history, with emperors associating themselves with the dragon as a symbol of imperial authority and strength.

The dragon has often been used for many decorative items throughout history in the art world and even further afield. At Doerr Dallas we thought we would talk you through some of the most glorious examples of this most auspicious figure.

1. Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers – Recits de Voyages collection

Vacheron Constantin, despite usually being a very conservative watch brand have recently introduced this impactful piece in a series of multicultural one-offs. Included in the stunning line-up is an ode to China, with a five-clawed dragon realised in grisaille enamel. The 16th century technique uses white enamel on a dark enamel base to emphasise the interplay of light and shadow without the use of vibrant colours.

2. An early 20th century Chinese Dragon carpet

The carpets of the far east have always been fascinating to many people and this example is no different.

Stunning golden dragons on a deep indigo blue background with a classical T pattern border design, it is supposed that the figures from which they were derived, once symbolised thunder and clouds.

3. A mid 19th century Tibetan painted chest of drawers

The number 12 figures prominently in Tibetan astrology, making this simple chest’s dozen drawers the perfect canvas to honour the year of the dragon. Tibetan astrology recognizes a 12-year cycle, characterized by 12 animals, including the dragons that wind their way on this expressively painted cabinet. The gessoed dragons symbolize ambition, dignity and success. Camouflaged by lush flowers and vines, each writhing dragon clutches in its claws a lotus flower, a symbol of purity and perfection, and a peach, a symbol of immortality.

4. A 20th century Chinese Jardiniere upon stand

This monumental cloisonné enamel jardinière is a superb example of 20th century Chinese design. The jardinière is of traditional form, rising from a narrow foot to a flared shoulder and culminating in a rolled rim. The body is profusely adorned with cloisonné enamel designs over the white enamel ground: dragons, waves, floral patterns, and other motifs abound. The piece is supported by a wooden stand, each of the stand’s four legs ornately carved and finished.

So whilst the images of other Zodiac figures such as the Rat, Dog, Rabbit and others all have their fans, it’s clear that the Dragon really does hold a special place in the heart of the Chinese people and judging by the popularity of the items relating to it, all over the world.

Cartier and Tiffany rocked at the Golden Globes…

“It’s the most wonderful time of the year…” and I don’t mean Christmas. My favourite time of the year is now, for all the red carpet gowns and jewels. So many impressive pieces displayed at this year’s Golden Globes. This year, I take a look at the two usual suspects that never miss: Cartier and Tiffany & Co., both symbols of chic and glamour, using the finest craftsman and precious gems.

One of my all time favourite actresses is Jennifer Lawrence, and she was faultless with her “simple” velvet gown and diamond-set Tiffany & Co. jewels.

The necklace was composed of a series of princess-cut diamonds, suspending to the front an 11 carat diamond pear-shaped drop. Her earrings were decorated with a total of 6 carats of untreated blue sapphire and diamond surround, mounted in platinum and 18 carat yellow gold. She matched these with a diamond ring and nothing too big which could distract from the Dior clutch.

It was a big year for singer/songwriter Dua Lipa, with a nomination for Best Original Song for the Barbie movie.

She dazzled the crowds with a 1962 gold and platinum Tiffany & Co. necklace. It is set throughout with oval, pear and briolette-cut yellow beryls and brilliant-cut diamonds. A similar piece, dating from 1967, sold in June last year, 2023, at Christie’s for USD $189,000, set with approximately 86 brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing 7.00 carats.

The singer completed her look with a yellow sapphire and diamond cluster ring.

Another very talented singer/songwriter is Jon Batiste. He was superb with a few Tiffany & Co. jewels which sparkled on his Dior suit.

The necklace is from the HardWear collection. It is set throughout with fancy links, each set with brilliant-cut diamonds and mounted in 18 carat yellow gold. This necklace currently retails for £70,000. However, there are several other options retailing from £550 mounted in silver, to £215,500 set with diamonds and mounted in rose gold.

A lovely addition to the necklace was the platinum and 18 carat gold Starfish brooch by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. It is decorated with a three carat aquamarine and diamond surround. The Starfish collection ranges from silver, selling for £365, to yellow gold, retailing at £3,450.

While Tiffany & Co. draped several artists, Cartier High Jewellery was the brand of choice for actress Julianne Moore.

She wore a spectacular gold and petrified wood necklace of reptile inspiration. Composed of 57 links, each set with white and yellow diamonds.

Echoing that style of individual panels is the Panthère de Cartier necklace set with almost 2,000 white, orange, yellow and brown diamonds, totalling just under 40 carats. A truly unique piece and a statement to Cartier’s savoir-faire.

The Panthère collection has several options of bracelets, watches and necklaces.

The actor Jared Leto, usually known for taking daring fashion risks, wore a simple 18 carat white gold and diamond Panthère de Cartier necklace.

It is set with two emerald eyes, 309 diamonds, weighing a total of 3.24 carats and highlighted by calibré-cut onyx. It currently retails for £78,500.

The Panthère collection is as desirable as ever and Cartier will always be a go to jeweller for any red carpet event.

£5k spend – Jewellery Investment Mission

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Mary Waterfall, Jewellery Specialist

The Brief: My Great Aunt Winnie has kindly gifted me £5K in her will. However she has also specified that I must spend it on something within my field of expertise, something that I believe will increase in value over the next five to ten years.
The Options:
1) Gold
My immediate thought is that I would invest it in gold. The gold price does fluctuate but over a long period of time it usually increases. As I write this, in the final months of 2020, the gold price is quite high. One of the reasons for this is because of the uncertainty in the stock market due to the COVID 19 pandemic, traditionally when share prices go down, the gold price goes up. My plan would therefore be to wait until the markets stabilise, which could take a year or two, to ensure I’m not buying gold at a price peak time. I would then go to auction and buy gold in the form of Sovereigns, chains etc., put it all in a safe for five to ten years, keep an eye on the markets and look for an opportune time to sell and hopefully profit on the investment. I wouldn’t sell at auction though because I would have to pay commission for the privilege. I would go to a jewellers/dealers who buys gold. Then tend to give you a better price per gram the greater quantity you have.
However, that all sounds very good but I wouldn’t get much enjoyment out of that experience. I don’t really wear plain gold jewellery so it would just be locked away and not looked at. Wouldn’t my Great Aunt Winnie prefer me to buy something I would actually wear and love? So my next thought is:
2) Vintage Designer Jewellery
Historically the vintage jewellery of certain brands, such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, can hold and increase in value. Pieces made in the early to mid-twentieth century can be very desirable and sought after. Clearly it’s a piece by piece case and does not apply to all jewellery made at this time. The ‘rule’ doesn’t necessarily apply to more modern designer jewellery such as the Cartier Love bangle. If you do an auction house online search for these bangles you will see many examples come up. The market is pretty flooded with them at the moment and some of them are the amazingly impressive fakes that are coming out of Dubai, some of which are hard to tell from a genuine bangle if you don’t know what you are looking for.

image of Fake Cartier Love Bangle

Fake Cartier Love Bangle

There is also a bit of a myth that if the jewellery is ‘old’ it will naturally increase in value. Again it depends on the piece but generally this is not the case. I was recently asked to value a diamond bangle that had been marketed as ‘Georgian’ and ‘very rare’. However in reality it was a modern piece manufactured in India and was not as valuable as originally thought.
So I know I need to have my wits about me if purchasing at auction. Another question is will I actually find such a piece that is £5k or under because such items can command high prices.
There are a lot of beautiful brooches out there, which were highly fashionable at the time but not so nowadays. I may be tempted by something like these earrings.

image of gold earrings

Cartier earrings c1970

They are by Cartier, circa 1970 and sold for £3800 plus buyers premium. They are beautifully made, signed and numbered by Cartier and I would wear and enjoy them. However I may also be tempted to extend my search and try and find something within my price range that was made by Cartier slightly earlier.
Conclusion
I think there is more certainty of a profit in strategy one but more fun and enjoyment in strategy two. Which would you choose?
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Under Pressure – The Exponential Growth of Underinsurance

The Exponential Growth of Underinsurance

As 2023 drew to a close, I look back on the year and reflect on the subjects I have found myself discussing most and even on the morning of the 27th of December at 9am I received a call from a long term client of ours whom is not only well respected, but incredibly astute, and this case highlights without a shred of doubt, the biggest problem in our collective industry currently.

A client of theirs is looking to insure a collection of jewellery with insurance values ranging from £1,000 – £20,000 – individually not huge sums, but collectively a significant amount. The figures have been gathered through somewhat standard avenues of what was paid for the item and “what we think it is worth/or worth to us”.

In my estimation, the collection is probably underinsured by a figure close to 50%, and on some individual items, close to 75%. We are now working out when we can get to the client as soon as possible in the New Year.

Whilst it may have been considered the ‘elephant in the room’ for many years, brokers and insurers are now discussing the problems that underinsurance can cause. We all know that the implications of underinsurance can be catastrophic, but how do we pass that knowledge on to clients and give them the knowledge that they need to make an informed decision about their cover, and having a professional valuation?

A recent example occurred during the summer, of which I was part of the team assessing a large estate that had been inherited from parents of a well known farming family. The figures provided were done so in the mid 1990s, and index linked from that date, with a figure of around £250,000 for the entire contents of the property.

Following the valuation, the figures were certainly surprising to the client, and the broker.

  • A general contents figure of £200,000
  • An antiques and collectibles figure of £210,000
  • A silver figure of £101,000
  • An art figure of £210,000

What astounded me is that despite being a heritage property, the insured still had all the contents in one general contents pot, with no specific categories indicated on their policy. Following the valuation, the client and broker now have a far better image of what they are insuring with correct figures for different areas, representing far better value for the client and a far better risk evaluation for the broker and insurer.

A recent survey completed by one of the biggest insurers of hight net worth clients in the United Kingdom has revealed that 67% of their clients need more guidance and assistance with their collections. This offers great potential for brokers to have the conversation with their clients about how they can help and offer an ever greater service.

What is clear is that the market is changing, with people’s tastes moving from more traditional avenues of collections and investment. The same survey indicated that 44% of high net worth clients invested in jewellery, and the same percentage in watches, which have both seen exponential growth in the last decade.

The great opportunity that a valuation always offers for the client is not only knowing the value of specific items within their collections, but also the figures of the collection total in addition to the individual items mentioned previously, so one can gather a ‘snapshot’ of the property.

So, should the subject of under insurance still be swept under the rug? Well, if its increased in value by 60% in the last five years, probably not.

The Art Market 2023

2023 in the Art Market has been one of readjustment and realignment, but thankfully not collapse – a market correction rather than the much talked about free-fall of the market.

2022 ended on a fever pitch high, with a slew of blockbuster auctions and record-breaking auctions – the Macklowe Collection brought in $922m at Sotheby’s, the Anne Bass Collection achieved $383m at Christie’s, and the Paul Allen Collection achieving just over $1.6b also at Christie’s – taking the honour of being the first sale to top the billion-dollar mark.

Yet even as these records were being made, savvy pundits predicted a gloomier future for 2023 which turned out to be true.

Surprisingly, it was the top end of the market, with its superior quality and strong provenance, that failed to deliver the goods in 2023. It was badly hit in comparison to 2022, generating a little more than half the sales value compared to the previous years. In 2023, the most expensive artworks at auction paled in comparison to last year. The top 100 lots at auction this year totalled $2.4 billion, compared to $4.1 billion in 2022.

Why is this? Experts cite higher interest rates, continued inflations, and the ongoing turbulence in the financial markets as reason for the dip – but economic jitters aren’t the only factor at play. The continuing war in Ukraine continues to negatively effect the global economy, as no doubt, the current Israeli/Palestinian war will too. Added to this, the post-pandemic exuberance of spending that fuelled the market in late 2021 and 2022 has certainly levelled off.

Across every category in the market, sales contracted in 2023 – but some were hit harder than others.

All of this has had a negative effect on the market – spooking all but the motivated seller from consigning their treasures to an increasingly unpredictable and volatile market. Just like the property market, why would you sell in a falling market? As a result, the number of works coming to auction hit a three-year low in the year’s first five months, and the contraction is most extreme on the high end. The May marquee auctions of Modern and Contemporary art in New York were noticeably underwhelming. The three main auction houses grossed an aggregate $1.4bn (with fees), significantly lower than the $2.5bn achieved the previous May, according to data provided by Pi-eX (the Londonbased art auction analysis firm).

Similarly, the up until now extra-hot, speculative/flip led market for young ultra contemporary artists also cooled down dramatically, with demand being far more measured than in 2022. In May 2022 in New York, Sotheby’s The Now sale of 23 recent works by coveted, hard-to-source names had been a bidding frenzy that achieved $72.9m. In stark contrast, just over a year later in June this year, Sotheby’s 14-lot London version of The Now format took £8.7m ($11m). This market had been characterised by heavy speculation and flipping by collectors keen to turn a quick (and often significant) profit on here to untested newcomers to the secondary market. However, market jitters have calmed this market down noticeably – with less activity from ‘flippers’ producing less demand and lower prices.

The biggest decline was in the Impressionist and Modern sector, whose sales plummeted by almost 30 percent year over year. The Postwar and Contemporary category had a slightly smaller dip of 23 percent. Ultra- Contemporary art, once the fastestgrowing category, took a tumble as the froth surrounding the market for young artists began to dissolve. It shrunk by 26 percent year over year. The most stable category turned out to be Old Masters, whose revenue declined a comparatively modest 6 percent. It remains one of the smallest markets by dollar value, second only to ultracontemporary (which covers around two dozen years of artistic production, while Masters embraces nearly six centuries).

Each of the big 3 auction houses saw their sales figures contract in 2023. Christie’s narrowly beat Sotheby’s in the race for the top spot, generating $8.9 million more in fine-art sales by mid 2023. Both houses saw revenue decline in the first five months of the year compared with the equivalent period in 2022. Christie’s was down 23 percent while Sotheby’s was down 20 percent. Hardest hit was Phillips, which reported $255 million in art sales, a 29 percent dip year over year, after reaching a record high in 2022.

In terms of the geographic split of the art market, the top three players stayed the same. The US reconfirmed it preeminence in this regard, albeit with sales down by 25 percent from the equivalent period in 2021, 2020, and 2019. China similarly reconfirmed its place as the second largest market, but in contrast to the US, its total sales spiked by more than 110 percent during the same period. The increase illustrates the continuing strength of the Chinese collector market, but it also reflects a statistical anomaly whereby several Chinese auction houses, including Poly International and Yongle Auctions, postponed their 2022 autumn sales to early 2023 in order to comply with government lockdowns, boosting the country’s spring results.

The UK market experienced a decline in sales of 27 percent but still held third place in the global art market. The impact of Brexit and the increase in overall in logistical and importation costs still continue to effect the profitability of Britian’s historic art market.

During the pandemic and the associated lockdowns, online and digital sales increased out of necessity and market survival and drove global art sales for this period. Now that in-person auctions have fully returned, online fineart sales are hitting a plateau—but they remain far above pre-pandemic levels. A total of $155.8 million worth of fine art was sold in online-only sales at Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Phillips, Bonhams, and Artnet Auctions in the first five months of the year. That’s down 5 percent from the equivalent period in 2022 and down 64 percent from 2021, when many high-profile sales had not yet returned to being held in-person. The 2023 total remains more than 300 percent higher than 2019, when online sales generated just $35.5 million in the year’s first five months. What has changed is the comfort level of collectors to purchase via online routes – the average price in 2023 for an online purchase has dropped to $17,794 which is lower than since 2019.

In conclusion, 2023 – whilst certainly not a bullish year, it has still proved to be a strong market with no collapse foreseen in the near future. Bearing in mind the overall global uncertainties, and the fact that purchasing art is not a survival purchase, this is no mean feat!

Adoration of the Magi and Shepherds

“A cold coming, we had of it, just the worst time of year for a journey and such a long journey”, is how T.S. Eliot’s ‘Journey of the Magi’ begins. Semi-desert can be very cold on a clear night, and we know it was clear, because the wise men were following a star.

No-one knows when our saviour was born, but the early, persecuted Christians, probably celebrated Jesus’ birth on December 25th because the Romans were celebrating ‘Sol Invictus’, the birth of the unconquered sun, and Saturnalia when people feasted, exchanged gifts and did not have time to watch what the subversive Christians were up to.

In 336A.D., when Constantine, a Christian convert was Emperor, the church in Rome began to formally celebrate Christmas Day on December 25th.

As a child, I was fascinated by descriptions of the aftermath of his birth – the Adorations by Magi and Shepherds and started a collection of secondhand Christmas cards of these subjects. What particularly fascinated me was the contrast between the elaborately dressed Magi, a Magus is a wise man, with their extravagant and costly gifts adoring the Christ child and the simplicity and piety of the shepherds in their ragged clothes and offering a precious lamb as a gift.

Two of my favourite treatments of this subject are The Adoration of the Shepherds by Gerrit van Honthorst in The National Gallery and the Portinari Altarpiece in the Uffizi. Honthorst (1592-1656), was a Dutchman from Utrecht, who with two friends visited Rome in the early 17th Century and fell under the spell of Caravaggio and adopted his dramatic use of chiaroscuro (light and shade). He was known as Gherardo dalle Notti, Gerard of the Night, in Rome. This picture was painted there in 1610.

Adoration of the Child by Gerard van Honthorst

The Portinari Altarpiece was commissioned by Tomasso Portinari, a prominent banker, working for the Medici in Bruges, from the brilliant Flemish artist Hugo van der Goes (c.1430/40-1482) around 1472-5. The shepherds have coarse, sunburnt faces, rough hands and grimy fingernails, all of which is accentuated when one looks at the beautiful Virgin Mary, with her pale skin and delicate hands.

Portinari Altarpiece Hug van der Goes

Contrast these depictions of simple, pious shepherds, with Benozzo Gozzoli’s (c.1421-1497) ‘Procession of the Magi’ in the Palazzo Medici Riccardi in Florence.

The richly caparisoned horses, the smartly attired attendants and the exotically dressed Magi exude a sense of wealth and power. Benozzo and at least one assistant completed this miraculous fresco over a few months in 1459.

Procession of the Magi

These paintings remind me of happy Christmases past, and my scrapbook of Old Master adorations.

Winter Landscapes

Have you ever stopped to wonder why, in the ‘Golden Age’ of English landscape painting (1750-1850), there are so few winter landscapes by the major practitioners of the genre. In the 18th Century there are none by George Lambert, Richard Wlson or Thomas Gainsborough and one has to rely on examples by lesser fry such as de Loutherbourg, J.C. Ibbetson and George Smith of Chichester.

In the next generation we have just a handful. ‘A Frosty Morning’ painted by J.M.W. Turner (1775-1851) of 1812, a copy of Jacob Ruysdael, by John Constable ( 1776-1837), who loved Ruysdael’s paintings and owned 4 of them and two by Francis Danby, A.R.A (1793-1861). The Danbys are ‘An Ice Slide’ of 1849, exhibited at the R.A. in 1850 and a study of children skating outside a woodman’s cottage, painted in the early 1820s.

It seems to be very odd there are so few, when one considers how many winter landscapes were painted in the Netherlands in the 17th Century and how prized by collectors and admired by artists in England such paintings were.

I think in large part it is due to studio practice in the late 18th and early 19th Centuries. Artists would go out sketching from Spring to Autumn, when the weather was relatively clement and then work up the sketches into finished easel pictures in the winter.

Constable travelled with a large and a small sketchbook everywhere he went, to record things of interest, including on honeymoon. I would like to hear from anyone who has a better explanation!

12 Days of Christmas

In 2014, Sotheby’s sold a copy of ‘Mirth Without Mischief’ for $23,750, dating from 1780 in which the first version of the famous Christmas carol Twelve Days of Christmas appeared for the first time.

Some historians believe it could be French and could have been created as a memory game, to help Christians learn and remember the principles of their faith. Though this could and has been refuted by some, let’s have a look at what is gifted during the Twelve Days of Christmas.

On the first day of Christmas, my true love gave to me a partridge in a pear tree.

Day 2: two turtle doves
Day 3: three French hens
Day 4: four calling birds
Day 5: five gold rings
Day 6: six geese a-laying
Day 7: seven swans a-swimming
Day 8: eight maids a-milking
Day 9: nine ladies dancing
Day 10: 10 lords a-leaping
Day 11: 11 pipers piping
Day 12: 12 drummers drumming

Someone on the internet has very kindly converted what the cost of all those presents would be in today’s currency and this comes to approximately £35,000.

With this budget, here is my choice for what I would wear during the Twelve Days of Christmas.

The Twelve Days start on the 25th December, and in keeping with the festive red and religious aspect of the celebrations, an early 19th Century garnet and pearl cannetille cross pendant, which sold at Bonhams for £1,500.

On the 26th, with the nights still closing in early, a moonstone necklace such as this Edwardian pendant necklace selling for £995, to shimmer and capture all the starlight.

On the 27th, an emerald and diamond three-stone ring, such as the below selling for £2,950 at Fenton to echo the Christmas tree which might be losing a few needles by now…

On the 28th, it always feel like dates have ceased to matter, so as a special reminder, this Rolex DateJust 1601 in stainless steel, selling for £4,400. Discreet and elegant, it is worn as jewellery.

On the 29th, perhaps a night out in a restaurant dreaming of that sky trip would require novelty cufflinks, as these enamel and silver cufflinks by Francis & Deakin, selling for £315.

On the 30th, one will have a quiet night in before the New Year celebrations. It could be a night to remember and remind that wonderful person just how much you love them with a fancy coloured-diamond ring from De Beers. The below cluster ring is set with a 0.52ct fancy yellow diamond, VS1, within a surround and shoulder set with brilliant-cut diamonds and retails for £7,250.

On the 31st, to celebrate the new year offered to us as a gift, one could purchase these vintage Chanel earrings for £1,370 decorated with bows, like a gift to unwrap.

2024 will be the year of the Dragon in Chinese culture. Dragons symbolise courage, power and protection.

Therefore, to start the year, on the 1st January, let us internalise all these elements and choose to wear a dragonset jewel such as the Fabergé Palais Tsarkoye Selo Red Locket with Dragon Surprise by Fabergé, retailing for £12,000.

The 2nd January calls for a quiet cuppa, and how best to accessorise than with Tea for Two bangle by Hermès £485, decorated with enamel.

On the 3rd, perhaps one is gifting the last few presents of the season and this trio of brooches would make a lovely addition to any jewellery collection, sold for only £280 at Dawsons Auctions a few days ago.

The list wouldn’t be complete without referring to The Princess of Wales jewellery. The Princess is one to reuse dresses and outfits so we could certainly get inspired by her look from last year with the goldplated earrings she wore last Christmas from Cezanne, retailing for £100. No one will notice they aren’t sapphires…!

Finally, as we look to the future and the warmer weather to come, on the 5th January I would recommend the mother-of-pearl Sweet Alhambra bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels, retailing for £1,300. The butterfly motif reminds us that spring is not too far away, and with it the promise of longer days filled with possibilities…

All these gorgeous gifts bring us to a total of £32,855, well within our budget and enough to splurge on that meal, extra gift or trip away. Best Wishes to all.