Category Archives: News

Jewellery Remodelling and Rediscovering Lost Treasures

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In an age where sustainability reigns as a paramount concern, the world of luxury is undergoing a profound transformation. Amidst this shift, an ancient practice finds renewed relevance: jewellery remodelling. Beyond mere aesthetics, this artful process breathes new life into forgotten treasures, championing environmental stewardship while indulging in the opulence of the past.

For those unsure of where to begin their jewellery remodelling odyssey, fear not – expert guidance from professionals like Lottie Leigh awaits. With a refined process honed over time, clients are gently ushered through the labyrinth of design possibilities. Even the most uncertain find clarity through collaborative visioning, discovering desires they didn’t know they had. It’s a journey of self-discovery as much as it is about transforming jewels, guided by passion and precision.

A Tradition of Elegance: From Aristocracy to Modernity

The art of jewellery remodelling is steeped in history, tracing its roots back through centuries of opulent adornment. From the courts of European monarchs to the palaces of Asia, this practice has long been a hallmark of aristocratic taste. Notably, the royal family has been a bastion of jewellery remodelling, with illustrious examples found in the treasure troves of the Princess of Wales. Pieces once cherished and now languishing in drawers find new life through thoughtful redesign – a testament to the enduring allure of sustainable luxury.

The Digital Canvas: Bringing Dreams to Life with CAD/3D Design

Innovation meets tradition in Lottie Leigh’s digital atelier, where dreams take shape with unparalleled precision, all driven by you. Here’s how Lottie facilitates this process: Through the marvels of CAD/3D design, you, as the client, assume full control, meticulously crafting every detail of your envisioned piece. Imagine this: a 360-degree image displayed on a screen, granting you the ability to explore and refine your creation to perfection.

But it doesn’t end there. Once your design is finalised, Lottie employs 3D printing technology to materialise it. This means you can not only see but also physically try on your design, ensuring it aligns seamlessly with your style and preferences. After all, being able to see and try on the design before anything is made is paramount. How can you truly know you love something without experiencing it firsthand?

This transformative tool not only streamlines the design process but also transcends geographical barriers, enabling seamless remote collaboration from inception to completion. It’s a modern twist on an ancient art, where imagination knows no bounds.

From Old to New: Trading Unworn Treasures for Fresh Beginnings

For those seeking to breathe new life into dormant jewels, an option exists to trade and upgrade unworn gemstones. Whether it’s diamonds, sapphires, or emeralds or other precious gems, these forgotten treasures find new purpose in bespoke creations. This exchange not only revitalises collections but minimizes environmental impact, aligning with the ethos of sustainable luxury. It’s a journey of transformation – a testament to the timeless allure of reinvention.

In the tapestry of luxury, jewellery remodelling stands as a beacon of sustainability and elegance – a testament to the enduring allure of heirloom treasures and the boundless creativity of human ingenuity. From the hallowed halls of royalty to the ateliers of modern artisans, this artful practice bridges past and present, leaving an indelible mark on both history and the future. As we embark on this odyssey of remembrance and renewal, may each jewel shine brightly, a testament to the timeless union of luxury and sustainability.

Doerr Dallas are delighted to have Lottie share her knowledge and expertise with us and our client base. Many of us have pieces gifted to us by our family members that are sitting in drawers that sadly we do not wear as fashion changes, so having an option to redesign is wonderful.

It is always important to remember that once you have ‘redesigned’ a piece of jewellery the need for re-valuing becomes more important. At the moment, with jewellery prices on the high street increasing; the price of gold going up daily, we are recommending to our clients to update their jewellery valuations if their current valuation was over two years ago.

To arrange a jewellery valuation give us a call on 01883 722736 or email us on [email protected]

 

This Week’s Jewellery Pick

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I recently finished the multiple award-winning show The Marvellous Mrs Maisel. And if you haven’t seen it yet, you know what you’ll be doing straight after reading this article!

The main character, Midge Maisel, played to perfection by Rachel Brosnahan is based on Joan Rivers.

Other characters are real, such as Lenny Bruce, others fictional. Created by Amy Sherman-Palladino, it portrays women’s experiences in the mid-20th century, focusing specifically on a young Jewish woman trying it to make it on the comedy scene.

The series is mostly set in the late 50s and 60s and the costume and jewellery are divine. Costume designer Donna Zakowska created a dream wardrobe for all the characters, earning her awards for her creativity.

Not only are the dresses and jewels visually stunning, they add and carry the story, they are a story of their own. Today I will look at the pearls used in the series and especially one set of doublestrand cultured pearls which Mrs Maisel wears for her first official stand-up at the Gaslight Café (a sticky downtown New York club where the great Joan Rivers also performed).

In this moment she experiences great success, slightly undermined by some misogynistic remarks, then put to right by her estranged husband, and the outfit is perfect and effective. A black dress complemented by a pearl necklace.

The double-strand is strung and knotted with 6mm peach cultured pearls. The pearls appear to be uniform in shape, colour and lustre.

And when looking to purchase pearls, these are the most determining factors in assessing pearl necklaces. In this scene, the choice of colour sends the message of softness, being peach and not gold, and also lets us extrapolate that she could become very successful in the future, the pearls being almost golden. Mrs Maisel and her success shine thanks to the peachy colour and also due to the pearls’ lustre. Lustre measures the rate of light reflecting off the surface of the pearl and the sharpness of reflection visible on its surface. We often describe these as poor, fair, good and excellent. The better the lustre, the more radiance and glow they emit.

The pearls are also well matched and round. Their shape in this scene is key. She is trying to make a name for herself in a male dominated industry, all the while maintaining and celebrating her femininity and exposing her marital instability and struggles as a mother. The roundness works brilliantly.

Though the above baroque pearl necklace comes with a generous price tag of £7,500 they would have sent a very different message than perfectly round pearls.

It was common practise to have faux pearls at the time and they were very effective. In today’s market they do not have any value. The costs of cultured pearls vary greatly depending on the factors mentioned above, amongst others. But essentially, their value depends on what they mean and signify to the wearer.

Protecting the Cash in the Attic

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Frequently, for those whose homes are filled with antiques and art – particularly when they have been treasured family possessions for generations – potential replacement values for insurance can be overlooked.

Whilst jewellery and silver are often undervalued for insurance – recent costs having increased – there are certain types of objects which can be discounted completely.

With that in mind, Doerr Dallas Valuations would like to share a few examples where interesting history and excellent quality have led to growing value and this fact may lead to under insurance.

Georgian Costume Jewellery

The 18th and early 19th centuries were a time of great innovation and advances in technology. One of the fields in which this was obvious was jewellery design. With sumptuary laws being ignored, and with a growing middleclass keeping up with the latest trends, the desire to own the most fashionable jewellery became widespread. This demand was met by advances in artificial stone production – what would now be described as paste jewellery. Paste stones could be manufactured in a range of dazzling colours – mimicking – or even more vivid than their precious stone equivalents. It made jewellery more affordable to the fashionable of the day.

Costume jewellery, in terms of its financial value, has often been disregarded in comparison with fine jewellery equivalents. However, in recent years a strong market for costume jewellery as a whole is evident. Recently, the Georgian paste jewellery market has strengthened resulting in rocketing prices.

At auction, estimates have been smashed – in February 2023 a suite of blue paste jewellery (parure) comprised of a necklace (which would have been attached by a ribbon), a bracelet and a pair of earrings was offered in auction (Woolley & Wallis lot 148) with an estimate of £200 – £300. The eventual total selling price was over £25,000!

Domestic Metalware

Objects made from brass, copper and pewter may appear ordinary but again their values can be surprising. Lighting, fire grates, door furniture, mortars are all things to consider when arranging an insurance valuation.

Early pieces are highly prized by collectors and their replacement value can be in the thousands. In a recent auction, (The Chapman Pewter Collection – Bishop Miller; April 2023) a rare pewter candlestick manufactured during the reign of Elizabeth I/ James I achieved a selling price of over £30,000 (Lot 43). If you are uncertain as to the origin of your metalware, it is always best to consult a specialist valuer.

Furniture

In recent years the antique furniture market has been much maligned, with reports of the decrease in values being widespread. While the market may not be that of the 1980s, quality antique furniture continues to be esteemed and seeking replacements competitive.

Modest oak and antique country furniture should be closely looked at when considering insurance. Windsor chairs, mule chests, dressers and farmhouse tables are respected amongst collectors.

Treen

In a similar vein to country furniture and domestic metalware – treen – domestic objects made from wood may have been disregarded. In this fierce collecting field, prices can be surprising and some objects extremely rare.

 

 

Toys, Games and Juvenilia

When considering a valuation, looking at the playroom or nursery may not be the first area for attention but with the market for antique toys and games proving ever popular, replacing these treasured possessions can be costly.

Important and interesting 18th and 19th century dolls houses are collected not only by those interested in toys, but for those with a passion for architectural history. These microcosms of the family home often include complete furniture and decoration – showing how families lived and operated their homes. To replace good examples, the anticipated cost will be upwards of £10,000.

Rocking horses have a history which dates back thousands of years – the toy in the current form has existed since the 19th century. Rocking horses, both antique and modern, are a focal point for a playroom and as such should often be insured. When looking to acquire a good 19th or early 20th century example, one should budget over £2,000.

Playing cards, board games and games compendiums may be valuable depending upon age, manufacturer and scarcity. Toy specialists can offer guidance on teddies, dolls and antique toys and games.

Exploring the hidden treasures in your attic could be a delightful journey down memory lane. These items which hold dear memories close to your heart might even surprise you with their financial value.

Angelica Kauffman

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Angelica Kauffman (1741-1807), who was a founder member of the Royal Academy and one of the most soughtafter portrait painters of her generation, is the subject of a major retrospective Exhibition at the Royal Academy, the first of its type in Britain in my lifetime.

The press release from the R.A. describes her as “one of the most celebrated artists of the 18th Century” and indeed she was. She was born in Switzerland and trained under her father before moving to various cities in Italy, ending up in Rome in 1763 where she became friends with Nathaniel Dance, the English portrait and history painter.

He, like many of his male contemporaries, fell under the spell of Angelica and sent her portrait of the actor, David Garrick, painted in Rome, to the Free Society in London, where it caused a stir. Who was this Swiss girl in her very early 20s who could paint such a powerful portrait? Even the thought of this young girl staring into the face of a man 25 years her senior, as Garrick was, must have caused a frisson. When she arrived in London a year later, she was inundated with commissions to paint portraits. These she undertook and specialised in painting the most famous women of the day and “history” pictures, whose subjects were taken from classical history or literature and which depicted female protagonists, for the most part. This altered the direction of European Art.

History painting, despite the promotion of Sir Joshua Reynolds, President of The Royal Academy, who was rumoured to have had an affair with Angelica, whom he referred to as “Miss Angel”, was not very popular in England and Angelica left London for Italy in 1781. In that year she married Antonio Zucchi, a Venetian painter working in England and they lived first in Venice and latterly in Rome, where her salon/studio was to quote the R.A. flyer “a hub for the City’s cultural life”. Goethe and Canova were frequent visitors and Canova organised her funeral. She took Goethe on art appreciation trips every Sunday in Rome and contemporaries described her as “the most cultivated woman in Europe”.

But what of her paintings themselves? I confess that I have always found them rather unlovable. I was steeped in classical mythology and history as a child, so I don’t find her subject matter dry or forbidding. It is her palette and technique I don’t like. She is painting in the age of Neo-Classicism, so one expects a clarity of line, which is wholly missing in her work. It may be that the smudgy outlines are a result of her early training in Italy, where the Sfumato Technique was so popular. This avoids harsh outlines and encourages a smokey, blurred edge to figures and draperies. This blurriness has, to my mind, crept into her choice of colours too, which lack purity and brilliance. Angelica likes dirty golds, muddy oranges, and beige. Compare her self-portrait with that of her younger contemporary Elizabeth Vigee-Le-Brun (1753-1842) and tell me who you think is the greater painter. Finally, with so much of her work based on ideas of Classical beauty, I am not sure she is any good at catching a likeness. Compare her portrait of her friend and admirer, Sir Joshua Reynolds, with one of Reynolds’ own self-portraits. We know exactly what Reynolds looked like, because he painted himself so many times and they do not vary, except in age.

Angelica’s portrait does not look anything like him. It could be anybody.

I am sorry, Angelica, to make these harsh judgements about your work, but I have always felt you were overrated as a painter, not as a human being. I would have loved to have sat next to you at dinner.

Anyway, don’t take my word for how good or bad Angelica Kauffman is as a painter. It is just my opinion.

Over the past few decades, her reputation has soared and she has an international following. Her prices at auction have followed suit. Twenty-two of her paintings have made six figure sums and the top price is $1.1M. Most of these pictures have been group portraits, but not all. In 2001 Sotheby’s sold a self-portrait by Angelica, in a painted oval, for over £420,000. Anyone who has inherited a painting by Angelica Kauffman should be aware of current auction prices to make certain they are properly insured.

Security Safe

Safes & Why You Need Them

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Jenny Cooper at Insafe shares her tips and recommendations on why you need safes for insurance.

Whether you own a prized collection of watches, a family heirloom with high sentimental value, or a large selection of jewellery, if you keep valuables in your home your insurance company will encourage you to purchase a safe.

But why do you need a safe? And what should you consider when purchasing one?

Selecting the right safe is very important. A home safe is a great tool for keeping your valuables secure, but there are several factors to consider to ensure that you have the right level of protection and that your insurance is valid.

The Association of Insurance Surveyors are a respected body of risk control experts working in the UK insurance market. Only safes that have been fully tested and certified by independent testing houses will gain an AiS certificate.

Beyond security, safes help keep important documents in one place, so there is no more rummaging through drawers or cabinets searching for documents or keys; everything is conveniently stored in one secure location.

But even once you’ve selected a reputable safe company, there are still several factors to think about. Below is a rundown of what your considerations should be when selecting a safe.

Protection from Theft

Home burglaries are an unfortunate reality, with thieves often targeting cash, jewellery and other easily transportable valuables. A securely installed safe acts as a deterrent, thwarting opportunistic theft attempts and safeguarding your assets against unauthorised access. Its robust construction and intricate locking mechanisms serve as formidable barriers against intrusion, making it significantly harder for burglars to pilfer your possessions.

We would even recommend using more than one safe. That way, if the burglars discover one safe, they won’t be aware of the other.

Fire Protection

Fireproof safes are specifically designed to withstand extreme conditions, ensuring that your belongings remain intact. In the event of a fire, a safe can protect your most valuable documents:

  1. A copy of your Will
  2. Birth certificates / Marriage certificates
  3. Important documents
  4. Passports
  5. Savings books

During such an event, being able to prove your identity can be very important, especially when your world is already turned upside down.

Alarm System Connection

The option of safe locks with duress systems can be obtained in collaboration with the clients’ alarm providers for integration.

Lock Mechanisms: The Heart of Security

At the core of every safe lies its lock mechanism, the quintessential component responsible for fortifying its defences against unauthorised access. Lock technology has evolved significantly over the years, offering a diverse array of options tailored to individual preferences and security requirements.

Keys vs Keypads

Traditional key locks, with their time -tested simplicity, remain a popular choice for many homeowners. Operating on a basic principle of aligning tumblers within the lock cylinder, they provide reliable security without the complexities associated with electronic systems. However, their vulnerability to key theft/duplication, or the risk of misplaced keys, highlights the importance of diligent key management practices.

In the digital age, electronic keypad locks have emerged as a modern alternative, combining convenience with cutting-edge security features. PIN codes replace traditional keys, allowing quick, hassle-free access to your valuables with the benefit of reducing the risk of keys within the property being lost, stolen or copied.

Cash Rating

Safes are sold and listed according to their cash and valuables rating. This determines the level of cover guaranteed by the safe manufacturer and insurer. Jewellery/valuables cover is always ten times the cash rating.

The following is a guide as to the typical grades of safes available. For example, if you have a Grade 1 safe, this will allow you to keep £10k worth of cash/£100k jewellery inside the safe.

Safe Grade Cash Rating Jewellery Rating
Grade S2 £4,000 £40,000
Paramount £5,000 £50,000
Grade 0 £6,000 £60,000
Grade 1 £10,000 £100,000
Grade 2 £17,000 £175,000
Grade 3 £35,000 £350,000
Grade 4 £60,000 £600,000
Grade 6 £100,000 £1 million
Grade 6 £150,000 £1.5 million

Digital locking systems offer greater security, ease of use, and customisation options, making them a preferable choice for safeguarding valuables in modern safes. Halo locking system is the only certified safe lock in the market which can be retro fitted to Grade 2 and above safes to increase the rating.

Insurers will work with safe companies to provide the increases. We would therefore emphasise the importance of choosing a safe equipped with a Halo locking system and a digital keypad. This combination ensures complete peace of mind regarding your security.

Size

It might seem obvious but making sure that you buy the correct sized safe for your home is very important. In home safes with high cash and valuables ratings, the safe walls are often very thick, this gives the illusion that the safe is bigger than it is. Make sure to check the internal size and that it meets your requirements.

If you have specific requirements and measurements, safes can be tailor made to your exact requirements, dimensions, colour and locking. Bespoke styling options, finger-print locking, internal LED lighting, watch winders and other features can also be obtained.

Weight

The weight of your safe is particularly important if you plan to install your safe upstairs or if you live in a multi-storey building. Whilst new safes are much lighter, they are still difficult to manoeuvre if installed in the incorrect location.

Installation

It is recommended that safe installations are carried out by qualified safe engineers to ensure they meet the requirements of your insurance company.

In essence, a safe isn’t just a metal box with a lock; it’s a fortress for your valuables, providing protection and peace of mind at home. Within its sturdy walls, our cherished items find refuge, shielded from the uncertainties of the outside world.

Additionally, safes offer privacy, especially if you have prying eyes – it provides peace of mind knowing your privacy is protected.

For optimal security of your jewellery and watches, we strongly recommend revisiting and updating your valuation if it hasn’t been done in the last two years. The reason for sharing this article is that as values continue to rise, your safe’s cash rating may no longer be sufficient.

Jewellery Pick of the week – an alligator hinged bangle by Barry Kieselstein-Cord

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This week’s pick is a gold piece of jewellery with a lot of character and no gems. An alligator hinged bangle by Barry Kieselstein-Cord from the 1980s.

This bangle is made of 18ct yellow gold and realistically designed as an alligator with detailed teeth, eyes and skin. And it could be yours for £20,000.

It was offered at auction at Christie’s with an estimate of $4,000-6,000 and sold for $16,250, including premium.

So why the price tag? This item is a good example of how premium is added to craftsmanship. The bangle weighs a little over 100grms and has been worked and moulded with great care, attention and exceptional know-how.

Barry Kieselstein-Cord didn’t always work with gold. His first collection, dating 1972, was crafted in sterling silver. When we think of silver jewellery, one of the famous names that come to mind is George Jensen. Barry Kieselstein-Cord’s collection was bought and presented at Jensen’s flagship store on Madison Avenue in New York City (now closed).

He shot to stardom and his jewellery was soon a key accessory to have. Movie stars like Diane Keaton were quick to get their hands on this new stylist’s designs. He also worked closely with Calvin Klein and Helmut Newton.

His brand has extended into handbags over the years and are considered works of art. So much so that The Museum of Fine Arts in Houston exhibits his Alligator Trophy Handbag made in 1992.

He also created belt buckles, which caught the attention of the Spanish bull fighter El Cordobès who purchased a horse-head buckle in the 70s.

Whilst he was working with sterling silver he made a skull necklace for Mick Jagger’s 30th birthday and continues to this day to make iconic pieces. Though access to these is very limited and exclusive.

So if you want a piece of history, keep your eye on auctions and specialised vintage jewellery shops as these pieces are very rare and the market is scarce for these recognisable pieces.

Swatch – When the 80s were good, they were very good

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In the watch world, Swatch holds one of the most unique positions possible, not only do they manufacture some of the coolest affordable watches that you can buy, causing worldwide pandemonium for the latest model, but they still are a watch maker first and foremost still forging ahead with technology and creating new visions in horology – also, in doing so becoming one of the most successful brands not just of watches, but of luxury goods owning such iconic brands as Omega, Blancpain, Breguet and Harry Winston.

So where did Swatch start?

Whilst most horological big names will be able to quote 19th century dates and locations, Swatch became a watchmaker in 1983, and really as a reaction against the quartz crisis of the 1970s and 1980s that saw many of the big names in horology to the brink. You may gasp, but many of the big names that I talk about regularly almost sank into obscurity after mechanical watches fell out of favour during this period – Even Rolex had to resort to producing a battery powered watch, although even this now is very collectible.

One of the keys to their continued success is knowing their place in the market, never one to take on the brands that people long for, even their name actually meaning ‘second watch’ indicates that whilst not throw away items, they can be worn as fashion pieces and with such collaborations that would mean so.

Swatch in 2024 is the brand that everyone can wear, from somebody that just wants an inexpensive reliable watch, to somebody that wants a cutting edge design piece, with some serious style and street credentials.

The last couple of years have seen collaborations at the forefront of the brand’s successes, but actually they have been doing this from the very start, with watches in the 1980s inspired by Picasso, Keith Haring and many other artists all forming an important part of their history, and whilst you will have read about the recent work with Omega and Blancpain, some of the most interesting items have come recently from galleries and individual artists, with licensed watches sporting famous paintings by Botticelli from the Ufizzi gallery in Firenze, and Basquiat, Lichtenstein, Magritte and many others all appearing recently, with what I think is a very usable function – Swatch Pay, the ability to connect your credit cards with a watch that looks to all intents and purposes as far removed from an Apple Watch as is possible.

In the past few weeks, in addition to these great names we have seen a collaboration with the Tate Museum, giving us the opportunity to purchase some great watches with colours and designs that virtually explode from the wrist, now they are certainly not for the faint of heart, but in my opinion present a great opportunity to own a watch with designs by Leger, Chagall, Miro, Matisse, Turner and more…If none of the fine art subjects appeal, the ranges are endless with basic colourful watches featuring many different subject matters and if you really are stuck – Homer Simpson eating a donut…what other brand could possibly present so many options!

This Week’s Jewellery Pick

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This week I saw a lovely collection of antique jewels, dating from the mid-19th century. Mid-19th century felt ‘relatively’ close until I realised it was getting closer to being 200 years old rather than 100… If you’re like me, the 80s was still only 20 years ago! Enough revelation on how old I am and back to this beautiful collection.

The one piece which caught my eye was an onyx mourning brooch dated 1854.

The oval onyx plaque, measuring 4cm x 4.5cm, has an overlaid border of acanthus leaf gold detail, the central glazed compartment with a lock of hair within a surround of 31 seed pearls, in closed-back setting. The reverse was engraved with ‘In Memory of Henry Thomas, Sept 14th 1854, Oct 54 years & 11 Months’.

Though its value might be relatively low, around £500 for Insurance purposes and £200 for open market value, one can immediately sense the priceless sentimental value this piece had.

When Prince Albert died on 14th December 1861 of typhoid fever, Queen Victoria entered a state of mourning and wore black for the remainder of her life.

It was then that onyx became fashionable. The court was quick to follow the new strict “dress code”. With wars and epidemics, death was everywhere. The demand for hair for mourning jewellery was such that it is said an extra 50 tonnes of human hair a year was imported to England to meet the demand.

Though a very personal jewel, the demand for mourning jewellery is constant. The below items, comprising of two mid-19th century gold and enamel mourning brooches and an 1830s gold locket, sold at Bonhams for £1,000 (including premium).

Mourning jewels are both sad and a beautiful statement of the love someone has for a departed. Whether antique or new, it is a celebration of the life that once was.

Stay tuned for next week’s jewellery pick…

The Watch Market in 2024

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The ups and downs, smiles and frowns

It’s April, and whilst the majority of us are looking forward to spring flowers and slightly milder days, a large portion of the country are looking forward to another yearly event – The annual bonus.

But if you thought that bargains were available in the post-Christmas sales on luxury watches, you couldn’t be further from the truth – despite the huge increase in production that Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe managed in 2022, there are still waiting lists, still a huge grey market and in fact a reduction in production of 2% for Patek Philippe and a whopping 10% for Audemars Piguet, whilst Rolex managed to keep a flat level inventory.

March 2022 seems a long time ago now, 24 months have passed, and the view of the wristwatch world has changed completely. When the inevitable price drops started to happen in April 2023, many people were surprised, but I think the general consensus was that there was no way that prices could rise exponentially in the way they had done for the previous two years.

Between March of 2022 and 12 months later, the Bloomberg watch index showed a huge drop of £15,000 from around £45,000 to £30,000, which clearly indicated the way in which the market was moving. Looking at the figures from this, however, indicated that those figures were dictated more by six figure Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe watches losing almost 40% of their supposed secondary market rather than the middle ground of watches in the sub £100,000 market – yes ALL watches have taken a hit, but not to the degree of the absolute top end.

There are many reasons that the realignment of prices happened, not least the crumbling of bitcoin and the fact that most people had to go back to the office after COVID, the increase in production post-COVID, but also the concern of street crime. The fact that the BBC decided to cover the problem shows just how much of an issue it has become.

Right now, things appear to be levelling off though, in fact the prices of some watches appear to be increasing with the Rolex ‘Starbucks’ 126610LV actually increasing in value by 3.2% and completely bucking the trend for six figure watches. The Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1R seems to be rallying at a 2.8% increase – which even I wouldn’t have thought possible.

What is great though is that the industry hasn’t laid back and decided to just ride out the storm, more and more amazing pieces keep coming out – not least the simply stunning Piaget Polo ’79, which to my mind WILL be the watch of 2024 and over the summer, everyone will be seen wearing it. What is fascinating though is that because of this new release, it has had a huge impact on secondary values of other Piaget watches, whereas before a slightly niche jewellery brand, it is becoming the watch word, metaphorically and literally.

Aside from the Piaget, other new releases include an ‘interesting’ collaboration between Victoria Beckham and Breitling, creating a range of Chronomat watches, that they hope will appeal to a lot of male buyers as well as ladies, which will be a tall order. Farer have released a lovely cushion shaped compressor style stainless steel wristwatch, which is as bold as they come, and in my opinion a bit of a bargain as well, and at the other end of the market the Swatch x Blancpain ‘Ocean of the Storm’ is creating a lot of waves and if you can find one for £350, I suggest snapping it up.

Jewellery Valuation

Designer Jewellery Trends – An Upward Curve?

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There is no doubt that values in the designer jewellery field have seen uplifts in the past few years. A unique combination of the Post Pandemic luxury goods ‘boom’, an exponential rise in social media influences on buying patterns, wider inflation and bullion prices have all contributed to an incredibly buoyant and enduring atmosphere.

Similarly to the trends seen over the last couple of years in the watch market, particular designer brands saw a huge increase in popularity, visibility, and subsequent demand on the secondary market, with only a slight respite towards the end of 2023 (Reuters).

Coupled with retail prices ever increasing, the value of these ‘hot’ designer items have been pushed up on the secondary market. Value factors include condition, whether the piece has its box, and the perceived popularity or rarity of any gemstones used in the design.

Cartier

Whilst Cartier’s growth in the retail sphere appeared to be easing towards the end of last year, share prices and figures released in January 2024 display a definite upward curve driven by demand in Asia. This healthy overall trajectory has filtered down to the secondary market, with Cartier items at auction demonstrating a strong sales rate and frequently exceeding estimate.

‘Love’

The last retail price increase for Cartier was implemented in early 2023, with prices rising from anywhere between 3% to over 10%. The most sought-after and iconic collections naturally increased the most, with Pursebop estimating the retail price of an 18ct white gold Love Bracelet set with four diamonds increasing 7% to £12,200.

The Cartier ‘Love’ bangle is one of the most popular items of jewellery ever designed. Created by Aldo Cipullo in 1969 and were referred to as a ‘modern love handcuff,’ only removable with the help of a mini screwdriver.

Worth noting that some designs, including Aldo Cipullo original LOVE jewels from the 1960s onwards will always command a premium for their place in the brand’s design history. Another 1960s design by Cipullo to continue to grow in retail price is the Juste Un Clou, with a ‘small’ diamond set bangle selling for £4,850, and a diamond-set choker necklace now retailing at £105,000.

Cartier Trinity

This year, to celebrate 100 years of the Trinity Collection, Cartier has released two new designs, a re-edition of the XL bracelet and an XL version of the iconic ring. Maintaining the timeless appeal and enduring relevance of this beautiful collection has seen values continue to rise over decades, resulting in a classic collection that is still coveted a century after its creation.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Another brand under the Richemont umbrella is Van Cleef & Arpels. Van Cleef & Arpels was established in 1895 following the marriage of Estelle Arpels, daughter of a dealer in precious stones, and Alfred Van Cleef, son of a lapidary. Creating masterpieces such as the ‘invisible setting,’ the minaudière, and the zip necklace, this iconic jewellery house is perhaps best known in present times for the ‘Alhambra’ collection. Indeed, according to statistics by retailer Watch Pilot, in 2023, the Van Cleef Alhambra bracelet was the most Google searched item of jewellery by category.

VCA Alhambra

Designed in 1968 by Jacques Arpels to be symbolic for luck, the Alhambra Collection is designed around a series of quatrefoil ‘four leaf clover’ panels. Varying in designs with quantity, size, and gem material, these beautifully set clover shapes are truly emblematic of the brand. Worn by royalty and celebrities to include the likes of Princess Grace of Monaco, Elizabeth Taylor, Kate Middleton and many more, the Alhambra collection possesses a truly timeless appeal.

Since 2022, the retail price for an 18ct gold Alhambra bracelet with five mother of pearl motifs has increased by 5.3% to £3,950.

At auction, the Van Cleef Alhambra pieces that well exceeded estimates were limited edition runs and unique pieces that were impossible to procure from the retail market.

One such example was a striking collar necklace, formed from openwork Alhambra links in 18ct yellow gold, selling at Bonhams in 2022 for £50,000 against a £12,000-15,000 estimate.

Boodles

Boodle & Dunthorne was established in Liverpool in 1795, gaining a reputation as one of Britain’s finest jewellers. Rebranding to ‘Boodles’ in 2004, this coveted brand has designed several sought-after jewellery collections that continue to enjoy increases in value as the years go by. Collections such as the Velocity, Blossom, and Raindance are all designed and handcrafted in-house from Boodles’ workshops in the heart of London.

Raindance

Designed in 2000 and inspired by a trip to the Chelsea Flower Show in which Head of Design Rebecca Hawkins admired the way light played on raindrops, the Raindance Collection is seen as one of the brand’s most iconic collections. Indeed, the Victoria & Albert Museum has a Raindance ring on display as part of their ‘Best of British Design’ permanent exhibition.

Featuring a series of collet set diamonds in varying sizes and angles, these beautiful jewels are retailing from £3,400 for a single band set with three circular rubies or sapphires and a pair of brilliant cut diamonds. At the top end of the spectrum is the Raindance ‘Chelsea’ bracelet, set with over 15 carats of colourless and fancy pink diamonds at £134,400.

Celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2020, Boodles released a limited-edition ring, set in platinum and 18ct rose gold with colourless and Argyle pink diamonds. Varying in carat weights, these limited edition pieces will continue to grow in value and hold their own at auction. In 2023, one such example with approximately 2.80cts of diamonds sold at Tennants Auctioneers for £19,000. Meanwhile, a version of the design on Boodles website set with 4.25cts is available for purchase at £84,000.

To conclude, exquisitely constructed and expertly finished jewellery will always possess a value, and continue to rise according to demand, popularity and inflation over time.

Although trends and fashionable collections will alter and vary over the years, items from the premier jewellery houses, in good condition and with original boxes will retain a demand from collectors, jewellery lovers and indeed those new to the market. Pieces that possess an unusual or rare aspect, such as an early piece from the collection, limited edition runs, and unexpected gemstones can expect to exponentially increase in value over time.

With the clear discrepancy between open market value and retail replacement value, it is essential that clients are equipped with adequate cover for their items. For a specialist, informed and up to date valuation of your jewellery collection, contact our experienced, nationwide team at Doerr Dallas Valuations.