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Wimbledon & Tennis – The History and Memorabilia

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British Summer is here – time for strawberries and cream as sports fans head to the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club for the most historic tournament in the tennis calendar – the 2024 Wimbledon Championships have arrived.

With Wimbledon and tennis in mind we will be looking at the sports history, and some of the most interesting pieces relating to tennis on the open market in recent years.

Tennis has a fascinating and long history dating back over 800 years. The sport can be traced back to 12th century France, and the game jeu de paume. Players of this earliest form of the game used their hands to hit the ball.

European Monarchs took to the sport and courts could be found throughout the continent with courtiers and Royalty competing. Louis X enjoyed it and is one of the earliest known players the game of the palm. During the 15th century, tennis courts could be found in the Burgundian court and several of the Italian courts.

The sport we would today describe as ‘Real tennis’ (or ‘court tennis’ and ‘royal tennis’) – can be seen as the closer precursor to the modern sport of Lawn Tennis. The racquet become a key component of the game, having been introduced from the 16th century.

British monarch, Henry VII and later Henry VIII both played Real Tennis. In 1530 Henry VIII had a court built at Hampton Court, and enjoyed playing at a number of his other palaces. French monarchs Francois I and Henry II were also notable early players.

A series of Old Master paintings illustrate the growth of tennis in Royal palaces. During the 16th century Flemish painter Lucas Gassel (c.1485 – 1568/9) produced a number of works on the Biblical theme ‘Episodes from the story of David and Bathsheba’. These works are unusual for their inclusion of then modern sporting pastimes within the landscape. One such example was sold at auction by Bonhams in July 2011 (Lot 114, Old Masters, 6th July 2011) – The grounds of a Renaissance palace with episodes from the story of David and Bathsheba. The work features one of the earliest depictions of a tennis court – with a rope for a net and tiled floor. Coincidentally the painting also includes another game in progress – an early form of croquet! The work eventually achieved £624,000 (including BP) no doubt due to the important sporting history.

The earliest known book relating to the tennis, Trattato del giuoco della palla, was written by Italian Antonio Scaino Da Salo (1524-1616) and first published in 1555. The text, written in three parts, occasionally appears on the open market. In November 2013, Christies London sold a copy bound in a single volume for £11,875.

Despite tennis’s reputation as the ‘Sport of Kings’, by the early 19th century it had fallen out of fashion – and had been declining in Britain since the days of Puritan rule during the Interregnum.

The later games of rackets, fives and badminton all helped form the creation of tennis today.

The modern game of Lawn Tennis, or simply ‘tennis’ as we called it was developed in the mid 19th century. Its invention is often credited to Major Walter Clopton Wingfield, who from 1874, sold sets that included all the equipment needed to play the sport.

More recently friends Major Thomas Henry Gem (known as Harry Gem) a solicitor, writer and soldier from Birmingham and Juan Bautista Luis Augurio Perera Orfila (known as Augurio Perera) a Spanish born merchant who had lived in the West Midlands since the age of four, have been credited as forerunners to Wingfield.

The pair played the game of ‘rackets’ locally and having become frustrated by the cost and complexity decided to make some alterations. Modern research suggest they began experimenting in 1859.

The pair chose to play their game outdoors on Perara’s croquet lawn, with rules developed from similar games. They founded (alongside two local doctors) the Leamington Club in 1874 (renamed the Leamington Lawn Tennis Club) – the first lawn tennis club.

Major Walter Clopton Wingfield was a Welsh army officer and inventor – importing bouncing rubber balls from Germany as part of his sets was a notable development. His game – originally called Sphairstike, was ideal for those who owned a croquet lawn. The sets he created included all the equipment required to play tennis and directly led to the popularity of lawn tennis.

Wingfield’s very early sets were retailed by French and Co. and have occasionally appeared at auction. In October 2019 ‘Sphairistike or Lawn Tennis’ set was sold at Shropshire auctioneers Trevanion and Dean. The remaining contents included three rackets manufactured in 1874 and was estimated at £3,000 – 5,000, eventually selling for a hammer price of £17,000.

The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club opened in Wimbledon during July 1868 simply called All England Croquet Club. Lawn tennis was introduced in 1875 with the first gentlemen’s competition being held in July 1877 – resulting the following year in a name change to included lawn tennis.

Memorabilia relating to these early days of Wimbledon is rare and pieces highly sought by collectors. In September 2021 a programme for the tournament held at All England Croquet and Lawn Tennis Club Wimbledon on 5th to 12th July 1880 was sold at Graham Budd Auctioneers. Carefully inscribed on the back page with the winners of each match it sold for a hammer price of £6,500.

This year marks 140 years since the first Wimbledon Ladies Singles and Gentlemen’s doubles tournaments held in 1884.

By the late 19th century Lawn Tennis had become popular internationally and tournaments were being held in globally. A poster recently sold by Swann Auction Galleries in New York was described as the “first American tennis poster promoting a tournament”.

Dating from 1896, the poster advertised The Western Lawn Tennis Tournament, held at the Kenwood Country Club in mid July. This stylish lithograph designed by Edward Penfield (1866-1925) fetched $11,250 (inc. BP).

The early 20th century brought tennis notable international players, who could be defined as ‘Sports Stars’. French multi-grand slam winning sportswoman Suzanne Lenglen (1889-1938) was such a player. Lenglen, arguably redefined what it was to be female sports person. She changed tennis fashion, wearing clothes practical for playing tennis rather than meeting the conventions of the day (such as corsets). The decision allowed her more freedom of movement.

Photographer Jacques-Henri Lartigue (1894-1986), famed for capturing of sporting events, took a series of photographs of Lenglen training.

These images, extremely evocative of the period, capture Lenglen’s playing style. In October 2017 Phillips Auctioneers, New York, sold an example of this series, a gelatin silver print signed by the photographer for a total of $13,750.

By the 1930s Wimbledon had become a hugely important event in the British sporting year. Tennis and its style fit perfectly with the Art Deco age. This is reflected in pieces produced for the modern home during this period. Designers such as ceramic artist Clarice Cliff expressed this in their work. In March 2024, West Midlands auctioneers Fielding’s sold a Clarice Cliff twoperson early morning breakfast set in the ‘Tennis’ pattern design for £7,200 (hammer price + BP over £9k).

On the open market pieces from key players of the 1930s intermittently emerge. In 2013, auctioneers Heritage (USA) sold the Wimbledon Gentlemen’s Singles trophy given to American tennis champion Ellsworth Vines. It sold for $47,800 (inc. BP) (Lot 80052, Sports Auction, Heritage Auctioneers, 1-2 August 2013).

Today, some of the most famous sporting figures of the 1920s and 1930s, are recognised by the wider general public due to fashion labels carrying their names. Two legends are French player Rene Lacoste and British player Fred Perry.

Frederick John Perry (1909-1995) had a prolific tennis career winning eight grand slams including three consecutive Wimbledon Singles titles. Prior to Andy Murray’s win in 2013, Fred Perry’s was the last British player to win a Gentlemen’s singles title in 1936. His gold winners medal awarded for this victory over Gotfried von Cramm in that tournament was offered at auction in June 2021 by Graham Budd. The piece sold for a hammer price £20,000. (Lot 205, Sporting Memorabilia, Graham Budd Auctioneers, 7th June 2021).

By the late 20th century tennis was able to hold an influence more broadly. In September 1973, tennis icon Billie Jean King played an exhibition match against male player and former Wimbledon Champion, Bobby Riggs – the game has since dubbed ‘Battle of the Sexes’. The competition was adapted into the 2017 movie of the same title starring Emma Stone and Steve Carell. The two-player competed in Houston for $100,000 in prize money. Billie Jean King won the match in straight sets. A notable piece of memorabilia from the contest was sold by Bonhams New York in December 2017 – the racquet used by Billie Jean King during the match. With a portion of the proceeds being donated to the Women’s Sports Foundation, the lot sold for $125,000 (inc BP).

As the influence of the sport has continued to expand, objects have been given names to capture their tennis connection. This is true of the ‘eternity’ bracelet or ‘line’ bracelet often referred to as a “tennis bracelet”. It is believed that the term tennis bracelet was coined after an incident during a US Open tennis match in 1987. Chris Evert, winner of 18 women’s grand slam titles, stopped her match to retrieve a missing diamond line bracelet – the new name was commonplace soon after.

The 21st century has produced some of the greatest players in tennis (and therefore Wimbledon) history. Serena Williams, Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal for example have all proved to have influence far beyond tennis.

In 2021 Roger Federer held two auctions from his career at Christies, in aid of his foundation. Among the notable lots during the online and live auctions were three rackets, used during the fourth round, quarter final and finals of the Wimbledon Championships in 2019. The set were estimated at £7,000 – 10,000 but achieved an estimate smashing £162,500. (Lot 234, Roger Federer Collection, Christies, 14th July 2021).

Similarly, Rafael Nadal’s racket used during the French Open Final in 2018 and again during the Wimbledon Semi-finals in the same year sold earlier this year at Sotheby’s. The piece, which was signed by the player, achieved a total of just over $33,000 (Lot 8, Zenith Sports Artifacts, Sothebys NY, 11th April 2024). While the tennis racket used by Novak Djokovic to win the 2011 Wimbledon Championship sold in September 2023 at Graham Budd auctioneers for £36,000 (hammer price total over £45k) (Lot 425, Sporting Memorabilia, Graham Budd Auctioneers, 5th September 2023).

Fashion and accessories continue to be one of the areas in which tennis is hugely influential. Watch maker Richard Mille approached Rafael Nadal in 2008 about working on a watch for the player. Nadal, who did not wear a watch was initially unconvinced about the idea. Richard Mille went on to design the RM27, a lightweight watch, perfected to the players specification. In May 2024 Bonhams Hong Kong offered a rare limited edition prototype Richard Mille/Rafael Nadal RM27-01 produced circa 2014.

It achieved HKD$9.1 million (equivalent to just over £900,000).

The Wimbledon tournament has been connected to the Rolex brand for over 40 years and since they first sponsored the competition in 1978. The popular Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Datejust is recognised by collectors as the ‘Wimbledon’ design due to its close association with the championships. These watches appear at auction regularly – in November 2023 Dreweatts sold a stainlesssteel bracelet example produced circa 2022 for a hammer price of £7,000. (Lot 302, Fine Jewellery, Dreweatts, 16th November 2023).

Now on to this year – memorabilia from future sporting icons is something to look out for. Pieces relating to younger players, competing in this year’s Wimbledon Championships are pursued by collectors. In April 2024 a tennis ball signed by the 2023 Wimbledon Men’s Singles Champion – Carlos Alcaraz – was offered at Sotheby’s. Used during the US Open tennis in 2022, the ball achieved a total selling price of $1,524 (lot 33, Zenith | Sports Artifacts, Sotheby’s – NY, April 11th 2024).

Wishing all those visiting the Wimbledon Championships this year a fantastic fortnight.

 

Read more articles by Stephanie Connell

This week’s pick – Trooping the Colour and Princess Catherine

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What fan of Princess Catherine would I be if this week’s pick didn’t focus on her one-off appearance for the King’s birthday?

Princess Catherine delighted the nation on the 15th June by attending the celebrations. With her family by her side and gleaming smile, I don’t think anyone could tell she was undergoing any treatment.

She wore a Jenny Packham dress, reworked from last year’s coronation.

Long-sleeved with thin black piping at the waist and an oversized bow on her lapel, she completed the look with a white Philip Treacy headpiece, white pumps and a black clutch.

As for the jewellery, the Princess of Wales wore Cassandra Goad Cavolfiore earrings in 18ct yellow gold, set with 2mm white cultured pearls and approximately 0.30ct of diamonds. These retail for £5,620.

One could accentuate the look with the matching Carioca cuff bracelet by Cassandra Goad, retailing for £9,580.

As a Colonel of Irish Guards, the Princess added to her jewels, the Irish Guards Regimental brooch.

The Irish Guards, to whom the Princess wrote a letter wishing them good luck for the event and to let them know how proud she was of them, were among the British troops participating in the parade.

Little fact about this year’s Trooping of the Colour: for the first time in more than 100 years, soldiers on parade were allowed to have beards, approved by the King earlier this year and which applies across the Army.

The Princess has once again shown how devoted and courageous she is: being scrutinised by millions during these times could certainly not have been easy. But, let’s be honest, she smashed it! My only glamour during my treatment was putting on my wig for very special occasions!

Though delighted to see the Princess at a public event, she has warned she is “not out of the woods yet” and it will be some time before she makes another appearance.

Until her treatment is over, I wish her and all those affected by the disease much strength.

The Trooping of the Colour marks the official birthday of the British Sovereign and has been celebrated in June for over 260 years.

Over 1400 parading soldiers, 200 horses and 400 musicians participate, together with an RAF fly-past.

The operational soldiers wear the ceremonial uniform of red tunics and bearskin hats and are inspected by the Sovereign once they reach Horse Guard’s Parade in Whitehall. The parade moves from Buckingham Palace and down The Mall to Horse Guard’s Parade and carries on to Whitehall.

Getting to the root of it – woods in furniture

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Wood is one of the greatest resources that mother nature has ever given us, from buildings, ships, cars, paper, its uses are pretty much universal. There is nothing involved in our everyday lives that doesn’t involve wood, and that may well be a unique quality.

In our world, and fairly low on the food chain in terms of global importance, is furniture. We all know that wood has been used since the dawn of time for making chairs, benches and many other items that make us more comfortable, but what woods have been used, and why?

Mahogany

Possibly the term that you will see the most when it comes to antique furniture, for the most part of the 18th and 19th centuries, it really was the most popular material for quality furniture. Mahogany is actually a term for three types of wood in the Swietenia variety of trees, comprising the San Domingo, Cuban, and Honduras, with a significant amount of this wood originally coming from Jamaica and the South Americas. Many of the pedigree woods are now covered by CITES regulations and subsequently modern items are made from crossbred trees that create very similar woods. Identifying mahogany is slightly tricky as there are so many variations, but the general appearance is that of a reddish brown material with fine grains, and next to no voids or pockets.

Walnut

Before mahogany and the ability to transport wood across the seas, walnut was one of the most valuable woods used for furniture construction. Elizabethan documents indicate that walnut wood, specifically from France, was regularly used in the construction of the most majestic pieces across the land. Following a particularly bad winter in 1709, the French actually blocked any exportation of the wood in order to protect it from foreign hands, which is where we start to see an influx of walnut veneers upon lesser quality wood bases, it is also where the very attractive polished burr varieties became popular. In some ways it is a similar wood to mahogany put with a more buttery colour, and with a swirling grain. The burr varieties can be found with an even more pronounced colouration, spots and pockets.

Oak

Possibly the most symbolically English tree in existence, the oak has been used since the middle ages in furniture making and one of the only woods on this list not originally used for its appearance, but its sheer practicality and useability. The wood itself was always considered more of a working wood with items made in the material known as ‘Country pieces’ with 18th century items often made in different woods, the oak being the cheapest. However, in the 20th century a resurgence in popularity in oak caused many reproduction pieces to be made, and also interesting pieces made by new designers such as Mouseman of Kilburn. Identifying oak is a lot easier than most woods, considering the nature of the wood, it is usually seen in more simple items with a heavy grain and uniform colour.

Rosewood

One of the true superstars of antique furniture, rosewood has been used for elaborate pieces of furniture for centuries and as such some of the most expensive pieces of furniture from certain periods, often seen as an upgrade from a standard mahogany piece, its rich deep brown hues really do capture the style of certain pieces. Also, some of the best Scandinavian mid-century pieces are made in rosewood, which leads to a certain problem that the industry has recently had to deal with. The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) has declared certain type of rosewood as an ‘Endangered Species’, meaning that certification may be needed in order to sell, or even insure some pieces.

Exotic & other woods

Of course, there are as many different types of woods as there are trees – we see many pieces of 19th century continental furniture in fruitwoods, which generally are a lovely rich orangey colour, but with a lot of grain and inconstancies.

Pine, which is without any doubt the best material for a kitchen table ever thought of, with red wine stains and children’s pen marks always adding to the patina.

Ash, Beech, Maple, Yew, Teak, Elm… the list goes on with many woods being exclusive to certain types of furniture or locations, but with so many different types to explore.

While some furniture values in the last twenty years may not have proven to be an escalating asset, the top levels of antique furniture continue to soar in value to the right client.

 

Read more articles by Alastair Meiklejon.

Pick of the week highlights of the Bonhams jewellery sale

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I had the pleasure of viewing the upcoming jewellery sale at Bonhams on New Bond Street this week. I received such a warm greeting from an old colleague at the front desk, and proceeded to head to the viewing room. Now, some might say they are too scared or intimidated to walk through these halls, let alone have the audacity to look at a jewellery sale on display. But here’s the secret… It’s open to everyone! And you should take advantage of these viewings. Think of it as a free museum entrance with endless exhibitions of exceptional goods, which have been, more often than not, hidden away from the public for generations.

I had the pleasure of being shown some highlights of this 118 lot sale.

These included a pair of Castellani sapphire bracelets from 1865.

These bracelets of Byzantine inspiration really are beautifully made. Castellani is one of the best when it comes to archaeological revival style jewellery and these pieces are no exception. “To have one bracelet is wonderful but to have two is very rare” said Jean Ghika, Global Head of Jewellery. With an estimate of £25,000 – 35,000, I am sure they will find a new home.

Still in the antique jewellery section of the sale are these spectacular “Night and Day” diamond earrings.

Still in their original box, these earrings can be altered depending on the mood. One can wear the diamonds for a dash of dazzle or cover them up with the cannetille beads. It is an extraordinary piece and statement to earlier craftmanship. They have an estimate of £12,000 – 18,000.

It should come as no surprise that my eye was immediately drawn to an early 20th century Cartier piece: an enamel and diamond fob watch circa 1910.

The delicate purple guilloché enamel is highlighted by a central diamond and a diamond border. The reverse is everything that makes Cartier watches: blue steeled hands, engine-turned dial and attention to detail. The very attractive estimate of £6,000 – 8,000 is bound to call out collectors.

Amongst the highlights is a sapphire and diamond cluster ring, circa 1890 with an estimate of £60,000 – 80,000. Why the price tag? That would be due to the origin of the sapphire: Kashmir with no evidence of treatment. Though a little abraided on the facet edges, a quick repolish would restore this stone and ring to its original glamourous state.

This piece shows once more the importance of getting gems certificated, as origin or colour and clarity can affect its value dramatically. This is even more apparent with the “Toi et Moi” blue and pink diamond crossover ring by Mouawad.

Both diamonds weigh a little over 5 carats, natural Fancy Intense Blue colour, VVS2 clarity and natural Fancy Purple-Pink colour, I1 clarity.

Bonhams says: “It is estimated that as little as 1 in 10,000 gem-quality diamonds extracted from the Earth’s crust show noticeable colour and of these stones, an exceedingly small percentage are blue or pink. The majority of these rare marvels of nature are under 2.00 carats in weight and stones exceeding 5.00 carats, are even rarer. Stones with high intensity colour grades such as ‘Fancy Deep’, ‘Fancy Vivid’ and ‘Fancy Intense’ are considered some of the most desirable colour classifications by GIA.” Due to its rarity the estimate for this ring is £1,000,000 – 1,500,000.

The Bonhams London Jewels sale that was held on 13th June garnered extraordinary results, with a total of £6,590,562, with 78% sold by lot.

Montblanc – Elegance in writing through a digital age

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If anyone has watched the recent interpretation of The Talented Mr Ripley on Netflix, the originally titled ‘Ripley’, you will have seen such a plethora of stylish items, from Salvatore Ferragamo shoes to Alfa Romeos, and one of the most focused items appears to be Dickie Greenleaf’s pen. The Montblanc Meisterstuck 149 almost playing a starring role in the series.

Whilst there are many brands that create stunning pens, there really is only one choice when it comes to the real top level writing instruments that people long for. In the same way that Omega might actually make a better diving watch than Rolex, 99% of people still dream of owning a Submariner.

The brand started life in Germany in 1906, producing luxury writing instruments under various different names until 1909 when the name Montblanc became the famous brand that we know today. Inspired by one of the most famous mountains in the world, the emblem that is still used today is their representation of a snow-capped mountain, and features heavily in their products and publicity. Later on, the nibs of all Meisterstuck (German for Masterpiece) pens would be engraved with the number 4810, to represent the height in metres of the mountain the brand is named after.

During World War II, the factory that produced their range was destroyed and they had to rely on a facility in Denmark to produce their instruments, however post war they managed to shine with many new ranges being released and slowly becoming the brand that most people know them as.

During the 1960s and 1970s, and after being taken over by Alfred Dunhill, they became even more exclusive, abandoning the less expensive models and producing even more exquisite and elaborate examples of fantastic writing instruments with celebrities all queuing up to buy them. By the 1980s, if you were a rock star signing a contract, or a world leader signing a negotiation, you would be doing it with a Montblanc.

In the last 40 years, Montblanc has become synonymous with the art collaboration pens that they have embraced with items retailing for around the £8,000 mark, but with their jewelled collaborations have broken records The Montblanc Boheme Royal selling for a staggering £1.1 million. The Collaboration with Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Mystery masterpiece’ selling for just short of £550,000 and numerous other watches within their collections selling for astonishing figures.

The good news is, if you just want to write and enjoy a quality pen, Montblanc still have you covered in 2024 with a lovely ballpoint pen, the Pix available for £240… so if writing is your passion, and even if you aren’t signing multi million pound deals, one can still enjoy the elegance that a good pen brings.

Jewellery Pick of the Week Cannes Film Festival

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It should come as no surprise to those who have read my previous articles that I would have chosen Cannes Film Festival for this week’s pick. A red carpet is always a good opportunity to see some of the most beautiful haute couture and jewellery which are inaccessible to most of us. Today I am looking at jewellery pieces by Tiffany & Co. worn by Camille Cottin – for whom I happen to have written a feature length jewellery heist screenplay.

As Mistress of Ceremony of the 77th Cannes Festival, and ambassador for Tiffany & Co., the spectacular French actress wore Tiffany Edge diamond drop earrings. These are set with 3.27cts of diamonds, mounted in platinum and 18ct yellow gold and retail for £32,800.

That same evening for the gala’s opening dinner, while still adhering to a very chic and elegant style, she sported another Tiffany & Co. suite from the HardWear collection.

Her neck was adorned with the Tiffany HardWear Graduated Link Necklace in yellow gold and pavé diamonds. It retails for £72,500 and is set with 9.07cts of diamonds.

The earrings en suite are set with 1.18cts of diamonds and retail for £15,800.

This particular jewellery line comes in white, yellow and rose gold, and can, as demonstrated the last few days, be worn to any circumstances, it really is a girl’s best friend.

The choice in design from Tiffany & Co. jewellery seems to resonate the theme of this year’s opening ceremony: women at the forefront of film and creativity. Camille Cottin’s speech mentioned #MeToo movement, the extraordinary Meryl Streep was awarded the Palme d’Or after a moving speech by Juliette Binoche, and Greta Gerwig (director of Barbie) was appointed President of the jury, six years after the last female jury president Cate Blanchett, in 2018. The HardWear collection says it all in its name and in its polished smooth and geometric lines. How could a jewellery collection be more perfect to echo both femininity and power.

To find out more about our jewellery valuation service, call us on 01883 722736 or email [email protected]

Jewellery Remodelling and Rediscovering Lost Treasures

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In an age where sustainability reigns as a paramount concern, the world of luxury is undergoing a profound transformation. Amidst this shift, an ancient practice finds renewed relevance: jewellery remodelling. Beyond mere aesthetics, this artful process breathes new life into forgotten treasures, championing environmental stewardship while indulging in the opulence of the past.

For those unsure of where to begin their jewellery remodelling odyssey, fear not – expert guidance from professionals like Lottie Leigh awaits. With a refined process honed over time, clients are gently ushered through the labyrinth of design possibilities. Even the most uncertain find clarity through collaborative visioning, discovering desires they didn’t know they had. It’s a journey of self-discovery as much as it is about transforming jewels, guided by passion and precision.

A Tradition of Elegance: From Aristocracy to Modernity

The art of jewellery remodelling is steeped in history, tracing its roots back through centuries of opulent adornment. From the courts of European monarchs to the palaces of Asia, this practice has long been a hallmark of aristocratic taste. Notably, the royal family has been a bastion of jewellery remodelling, with illustrious examples found in the treasure troves of the Princess of Wales. Pieces once cherished and now languishing in drawers find new life through thoughtful redesign – a testament to the enduring allure of sustainable luxury.

The Digital Canvas: Bringing Dreams to Life with CAD/3D Design

Innovation meets tradition in Lottie Leigh’s digital atelier, where dreams take shape with unparalleled precision, all driven by you. Here’s how Lottie facilitates this process: Through the marvels of CAD/3D design, you, as the client, assume full control, meticulously crafting every detail of your envisioned piece. Imagine this: a 360-degree image displayed on a screen, granting you the ability to explore and refine your creation to perfection.

But it doesn’t end there. Once your design is finalised, Lottie employs 3D printing technology to materialise it. This means you can not only see but also physically try on your design, ensuring it aligns seamlessly with your style and preferences. After all, being able to see and try on the design before anything is made is paramount. How can you truly know you love something without experiencing it firsthand?

This transformative tool not only streamlines the design process but also transcends geographical barriers, enabling seamless remote collaboration from inception to completion. It’s a modern twist on an ancient art, where imagination knows no bounds.

From Old to New: Trading Unworn Treasures for Fresh Beginnings

For those seeking to breathe new life into dormant jewels, an option exists to trade and upgrade unworn gemstones. Whether it’s diamonds, sapphires, or emeralds or other precious gems, these forgotten treasures find new purpose in bespoke creations. This exchange not only revitalises collections but minimizes environmental impact, aligning with the ethos of sustainable luxury. It’s a journey of transformation – a testament to the timeless allure of reinvention.

In the tapestry of luxury, jewellery remodelling stands as a beacon of sustainability and elegance – a testament to the enduring allure of heirloom treasures and the boundless creativity of human ingenuity. From the hallowed halls of royalty to the ateliers of modern artisans, this artful practice bridges past and present, leaving an indelible mark on both history and the future. As we embark on this odyssey of remembrance and renewal, may each jewel shine brightly, a testament to the timeless union of luxury and sustainability.

Doerr Dallas are delighted to have Lottie share her knowledge and expertise with us and our client base. Many of us have pieces gifted to us by our family members that are sitting in drawers that sadly we do not wear as fashion changes, so having an option to redesign is wonderful.

It is always important to remember that once you have ‘redesigned’ a piece of jewellery the need for re-valuing becomes more important. At the moment, with jewellery prices on the high street increasing; the price of gold going up daily, we are recommending to our clients to update their jewellery valuations if their current valuation was over two years ago.

To arrange a jewellery valuation give us a call on 01883 722736 or email us on [email protected]

 

This Week’s Jewellery Pick

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I recently finished the multiple award-winning show The Marvellous Mrs Maisel. And if you haven’t seen it yet, you know what you’ll be doing straight after reading this article!

The main character, Midge Maisel, played to perfection by Rachel Brosnahan is based on Joan Rivers.

Other characters are real, such as Lenny Bruce, others fictional. Created by Amy Sherman-Palladino, it portrays women’s experiences in the mid-20th century, focusing specifically on a young Jewish woman trying it to make it on the comedy scene.

The series is mostly set in the late 50s and 60s and the costume and jewellery are divine. Costume designer Donna Zakowska created a dream wardrobe for all the characters, earning her awards for her creativity.

Not only are the dresses and jewels visually stunning, they add and carry the story, they are a story of their own. Today I will look at the pearls used in the series and especially one set of doublestrand cultured pearls which Mrs Maisel wears for her first official stand-up at the Gaslight Café (a sticky downtown New York club where the great Joan Rivers also performed).

In this moment she experiences great success, slightly undermined by some misogynistic remarks, then put to right by her estranged husband, and the outfit is perfect and effective. A black dress complemented by a pearl necklace.

The double-strand is strung and knotted with 6mm peach cultured pearls. The pearls appear to be uniform in shape, colour and lustre.

And when looking to purchase pearls, these are the most determining factors in assessing pearl necklaces. In this scene, the choice of colour sends the message of softness, being peach and not gold, and also lets us extrapolate that she could become very successful in the future, the pearls being almost golden. Mrs Maisel and her success shine thanks to the peachy colour and also due to the pearls’ lustre. Lustre measures the rate of light reflecting off the surface of the pearl and the sharpness of reflection visible on its surface. We often describe these as poor, fair, good and excellent. The better the lustre, the more radiance and glow they emit.

The pearls are also well matched and round. Their shape in this scene is key. She is trying to make a name for herself in a male dominated industry, all the while maintaining and celebrating her femininity and exposing her marital instability and struggles as a mother. The roundness works brilliantly.

Though the above baroque pearl necklace comes with a generous price tag of £7,500 they would have sent a very different message than perfectly round pearls.

It was common practise to have faux pearls at the time and they were very effective. In today’s market they do not have any value. The costs of cultured pearls vary greatly depending on the factors mentioned above, amongst others. But essentially, their value depends on what they mean and signify to the wearer.

Protecting the Cash in the Attic

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Frequently, for those whose homes are filled with antiques and art – particularly when they have been treasured family possessions for generations – potential replacement values for insurance can be overlooked.

Whilst jewellery and silver are often undervalued for insurance – recent costs having increased – there are certain types of objects which can be discounted completely.

With that in mind, Doerr Dallas Valuations would like to share a few examples where interesting history and excellent quality have led to growing value and this fact may lead to under insurance.

Georgian Costume Jewellery

The 18th and early 19th centuries were a time of great innovation and advances in technology. One of the fields in which this was obvious was jewellery design. With sumptuary laws being ignored, and with a growing middleclass keeping up with the latest trends, the desire to own the most fashionable jewellery became widespread. This demand was met by advances in artificial stone production – what would now be described as paste jewellery. Paste stones could be manufactured in a range of dazzling colours – mimicking – or even more vivid than their precious stone equivalents. It made jewellery more affordable to the fashionable of the day.

Costume jewellery, in terms of its financial value, has often been disregarded in comparison with fine jewellery equivalents. However, in recent years a strong market for costume jewellery as a whole is evident. Recently, the Georgian paste jewellery market has strengthened resulting in rocketing prices.

At auction, estimates have been smashed – in February 2023 a suite of blue paste jewellery (parure) comprised of a necklace (which would have been attached by a ribbon), a bracelet and a pair of earrings was offered in auction (Woolley & Wallis lot 148) with an estimate of £200 – £300. The eventual total selling price was over £25,000!

Domestic Metalware

Objects made from brass, copper and pewter may appear ordinary but again their values can be surprising. Lighting, fire grates, door furniture, mortars are all things to consider when arranging an insurance valuation.

Early pieces are highly prized by collectors and their replacement value can be in the thousands. In a recent auction, (The Chapman Pewter Collection – Bishop Miller; April 2023) a rare pewter candlestick manufactured during the reign of Elizabeth I/ James I achieved a selling price of over £30,000 (Lot 43). If you are uncertain as to the origin of your metalware, it is always best to consult a specialist valuer.

Furniture

In recent years the antique furniture market has been much maligned, with reports of the decrease in values being widespread. While the market may not be that of the 1980s, quality antique furniture continues to be esteemed and seeking replacements competitive.

Modest oak and antique country furniture should be closely looked at when considering insurance. Windsor chairs, mule chests, dressers and farmhouse tables are respected amongst collectors.

Treen

In a similar vein to country furniture and domestic metalware – treen – domestic objects made from wood may have been disregarded. In this fierce collecting field, prices can be surprising and some objects extremely rare.

 

 

Toys, Games and Juvenilia

When considering a valuation, looking at the playroom or nursery may not be the first area for attention but with the market for antique toys and games proving ever popular, replacing these treasured possessions can be costly.

Important and interesting 18th and 19th century dolls houses are collected not only by those interested in toys, but for those with a passion for architectural history. These microcosms of the family home often include complete furniture and decoration – showing how families lived and operated their homes. To replace good examples, the anticipated cost will be upwards of £10,000.

Rocking horses have a history which dates back thousands of years – the toy in the current form has existed since the 19th century. Rocking horses, both antique and modern, are a focal point for a playroom and as such should often be insured. When looking to acquire a good 19th or early 20th century example, one should budget over £2,000.

Playing cards, board games and games compendiums may be valuable depending upon age, manufacturer and scarcity. Toy specialists can offer guidance on teddies, dolls and antique toys and games.

Exploring the hidden treasures in your attic could be a delightful journey down memory lane. These items which hold dear memories close to your heart might even surprise you with their financial value.

Angelica Kauffman

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Angelica Kauffman (1741-1807), who was a founder member of the Royal Academy and one of the most soughtafter portrait painters of her generation, is the subject of a major retrospective Exhibition at the Royal Academy, the first of its type in Britain in my lifetime.

The press release from the R.A. describes her as “one of the most celebrated artists of the 18th Century” and indeed she was. She was born in Switzerland and trained under her father before moving to various cities in Italy, ending up in Rome in 1763 where she became friends with Nathaniel Dance, the English portrait and history painter.

He, like many of his male contemporaries, fell under the spell of Angelica and sent her portrait of the actor, David Garrick, painted in Rome, to the Free Society in London, where it caused a stir. Who was this Swiss girl in her very early 20s who could paint such a powerful portrait? Even the thought of this young girl staring into the face of a man 25 years her senior, as Garrick was, must have caused a frisson. When she arrived in London a year later, she was inundated with commissions to paint portraits. These she undertook and specialised in painting the most famous women of the day and “history” pictures, whose subjects were taken from classical history or literature and which depicted female protagonists, for the most part. This altered the direction of European Art.

History painting, despite the promotion of Sir Joshua Reynolds, President of The Royal Academy, who was rumoured to have had an affair with Angelica, whom he referred to as “Miss Angel”, was not very popular in England and Angelica left London for Italy in 1781. In that year she married Antonio Zucchi, a Venetian painter working in England and they lived first in Venice and latterly in Rome, where her salon/studio was to quote the R.A. flyer “a hub for the City’s cultural life”. Goethe and Canova were frequent visitors and Canova organised her funeral. She took Goethe on art appreciation trips every Sunday in Rome and contemporaries described her as “the most cultivated woman in Europe”.

But what of her paintings themselves? I confess that I have always found them rather unlovable. I was steeped in classical mythology and history as a child, so I don’t find her subject matter dry or forbidding. It is her palette and technique I don’t like. She is painting in the age of Neo-Classicism, so one expects a clarity of line, which is wholly missing in her work. It may be that the smudgy outlines are a result of her early training in Italy, where the Sfumato Technique was so popular. This avoids harsh outlines and encourages a smokey, blurred edge to figures and draperies. This blurriness has, to my mind, crept into her choice of colours too, which lack purity and brilliance. Angelica likes dirty golds, muddy oranges, and beige. Compare her self-portrait with that of her younger contemporary Elizabeth Vigee-Le-Brun (1753-1842) and tell me who you think is the greater painter. Finally, with so much of her work based on ideas of Classical beauty, I am not sure she is any good at catching a likeness. Compare her portrait of her friend and admirer, Sir Joshua Reynolds, with one of Reynolds’ own self-portraits. We know exactly what Reynolds looked like, because he painted himself so many times and they do not vary, except in age.

Angelica’s portrait does not look anything like him. It could be anybody.

I am sorry, Angelica, to make these harsh judgements about your work, but I have always felt you were overrated as a painter, not as a human being. I would have loved to have sat next to you at dinner.

Anyway, don’t take my word for how good or bad Angelica Kauffman is as a painter. It is just my opinion.

Over the past few decades, her reputation has soared and she has an international following. Her prices at auction have followed suit. Twenty-two of her paintings have made six figure sums and the top price is $1.1M. Most of these pictures have been group portraits, but not all. In 2001 Sotheby’s sold a self-portrait by Angelica, in a painted oval, for over £420,000. Anyone who has inherited a painting by Angelica Kauffman should be aware of current auction prices to make certain they are properly insured.