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Cartier and Tiffany rocked at the Golden Globes…

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“It’s the most wonderful time of the year…” and I don’t mean Christmas. My favourite time of the year is now, for all the red carpet gowns and jewels. So many impressive pieces displayed at this year’s Golden Globes. This year, I take a look at the two usual suspects that never miss: Cartier and Tiffany & Co., both symbols of chic and glamour, using the finest craftsman and precious gems.

One of my all time favourite actresses is Jennifer Lawrence, and she was faultless with her “simple” velvet gown and diamond-set Tiffany & Co. jewels.

The necklace was composed of a series of princess-cut diamonds, suspending to the front an 11 carat diamond pear-shaped drop. Her earrings were decorated with a total of 6 carats of untreated blue sapphire and diamond surround, mounted in platinum and 18 carat yellow gold. She matched these with a diamond ring and nothing too big which could distract from the Dior clutch.

It was a big year for singer/songwriter Dua Lipa, with a nomination for Best Original Song for the Barbie movie.

She dazzled the crowds with a 1962 gold and platinum Tiffany & Co. necklace. It is set throughout with oval, pear and briolette-cut yellow beryls and brilliant-cut diamonds. A similar piece, dating from 1967, sold in June last year, 2023, at Christie’s for USD $189,000, set with approximately 86 brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing 7.00 carats.

The singer completed her look with a yellow sapphire and diamond cluster ring.

Another very talented singer/songwriter is Jon Batiste. He was superb with a few Tiffany & Co. jewels which sparkled on his Dior suit.

The necklace is from the HardWear collection. It is set throughout with fancy links, each set with brilliant-cut diamonds and mounted in 18 carat yellow gold. This necklace currently retails for £70,000. However, there are several other options retailing from £550 mounted in silver, to £215,500 set with diamonds and mounted in rose gold.

A lovely addition to the necklace was the platinum and 18 carat gold Starfish brooch by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. It is decorated with a three carat aquamarine and diamond surround. The Starfish collection ranges from silver, selling for £365, to yellow gold, retailing at £3,450.

While Tiffany & Co. draped several artists, Cartier High Jewellery was the brand of choice for actress Julianne Moore.

She wore a spectacular gold and petrified wood necklace of reptile inspiration. Composed of 57 links, each set with white and yellow diamonds.

Echoing that style of individual panels is the Panthère de Cartier necklace set with almost 2,000 white, orange, yellow and brown diamonds, totalling just under 40 carats. A truly unique piece and a statement to Cartier’s savoir-faire.

The Panthère collection has several options of bracelets, watches and necklaces.

The actor Jared Leto, usually known for taking daring fashion risks, wore a simple 18 carat white gold and diamond Panthère de Cartier necklace.

It is set with two emerald eyes, 309 diamonds, weighing a total of 3.24 carats and highlighted by calibré-cut onyx. It currently retails for £78,500.

The Panthère collection is as desirable as ever and Cartier will always be a go to jeweller for any red carpet event.

£5k spend – Jewellery Investment Mission

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The Brief: My Great Aunt Winnie has kindly gifted me £5K in her will. However she has also specified that I must spend it on something within my field of expertise, something that I believe will increase in value over the next five to ten years.
The Options:
1) Gold
My immediate thought is that I would make a jewellery investment and invest it in gold. The gold price does fluctuate but over a long period of time it usually increases. As I write this, in the final months of 2020, the gold price is quite high. One of the reasons for this is because of the uncertainty in the stock market due to the COVID 19 pandemic, traditionally when share prices go down, the gold price goes up. My plan would therefore be to wait until the markets stabilise, which could take a year or two, to ensure I’m not buying gold at a price peak time. I would then go to auction and buy gold in the form of Sovereigns, chains etc., put it all in a safe for five to ten years, keep an eye on the markets and look for an opportune time to sell and hopefully profit on the investment. I wouldn’t sell at auction though because I would have to pay commission for the privilege. I would go to a jewellers/dealers who buys gold. Then tend to give you a better price per gram the greater quantity you have.
However, that all sounds very good but I wouldn’t get much enjoyment out of that experience. I don’t really wear plain gold jewellery so it would just be locked away and not looked at. Wouldn’t my Great Aunt Winnie prefer me to buy something I would actually wear and love? So my next thought is:
2) Vintage Designer Jewellery
Historically the vintage jewellery of certain brands, such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, can hold and increase in value. Pieces made in the early to mid-twentieth century can be very desirable and sought after. Clearly it’s a piece by piece case and does not apply to all jewellery made at this time. The ‘rule’ doesn’t necessarily apply to more modern designer jewellery such as the Cartier Love bangle. If you do an auction house online search for these bangles you will see many examples come up. The market is pretty flooded with them at the moment and some of them are the amazingly impressive fakes that are coming out of Dubai, some of which are hard to tell from a genuine bangle if you don’t know what you are looking for.

image of Fake Cartier Love Bangle

Fake Cartier Love Bangle

There is also a bit of a myth that if the jewellery is ‘old’ it will naturally increase in value. Again it depends on the piece but generally this is not the case. I was recently asked to value a diamond bangle that had been marketed as ‘Georgian’ and ‘very rare’. However in reality it was a modern piece manufactured in India and was not as valuable as originally thought.
So I know I need to have my wits about me if purchasing at auction. Another question is will I actually find such a piece that is £5k or under because such items can command high prices.
There are a lot of beautiful brooches out there, which were highly fashionable at the time but not so nowadays. I may be tempted by something like these earrings.

image of gold earrings

Cartier earrings c1970

They are by Cartier, circa 1970 and sold for £3800 plus buyers premium. They are beautifully made, signed and numbered by Cartier and I would wear and enjoy them. However I may also be tempted to extend my search and try and find something within my price range that was made by Cartier slightly earlier.
Conclusion
From a jewellery investment perspective I think there is more certainty of a profit in strategy one but more fun and enjoyment in strategy two. Which would you choose?
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Under Pressure – The Exponential Growth of Underinsurance

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The Exponential Growth of Underinsurance

As 2023 drew to a close, I look back on the year and reflect on the subjects I have found myself discussing most and even on the morning of the 27th of December at 9am I received a call from a long term client of ours whom is not only well respected, but incredibly astute, and this case highlights without a shred of doubt, the biggest problem in our collective industry currently.

A client of theirs is looking to insure a collection of jewellery with insurance values ranging from £1,000 – £20,000 – individually not huge sums, but collectively a significant amount. The figures have been gathered through somewhat standard avenues of what was paid for the item and “what we think it is worth/or worth to us”.

In my estimation, the collection is probably underinsured by a figure close to 50%, and on some individual items, close to 75%. We are now working out when we can get to the client as soon as possible in the New Year.

Whilst it may have been considered the ‘elephant in the room’ for many years, brokers and insurers are now discussing the problems that underinsurance can cause. We all know that the implications of underinsurance can be catastrophic, but how do we pass that knowledge on to clients and give them the knowledge that they need to make an informed decision about their cover, and having a professional valuation?

A recent example occurred during the summer, of which I was part of the team assessing a large estate that had been inherited from parents of a well known farming family. The figures provided were done so in the mid 1990s, and index linked from that date, with a figure of around £250,000 for the entire contents of the property.

Following the valuation, the figures were certainly surprising to the client, and the broker.

  • A general contents figure of £200,000
  • An antiques and collectibles figure of £210,000
  • A silver figure of £101,000
  • An art figure of £210,000

What astounded me is that despite being a heritage property, the insured still had all the contents in one general contents pot, with no specific categories indicated on their policy. Following the valuation, the client and broker now have a far better image of what they are insuring with correct figures for different areas, representing far better value for the client and a far better risk evaluation for the broker and insurer.

A recent survey completed by one of the biggest insurers of high net worth clients in the United Kingdom has revealed that 67% of their clients need more guidance and assistance with their collections. This offers great potential for brokers to have the conversation with their clients about how they can help and offer an ever greater service.

What is clear is that the market is changing, with people’s tastes moving from more traditional avenues of collections and investment. The same survey indicated that 44% of high net worth clients invested in jewellery, and the same percentage in watches, which have both seen exponential growth in the last decade.

The great opportunity that a valuation always offers for the client is not only knowing the value of specific items within their collections, but also the figures of the collection total in addition to the individual items mentioned previously, so one can gather a ‘snapshot’ of the property.

So, should the subject of under insurance still be swept under the rug? Well, if its increased in value by 60% in the last five years, probably not.

The Art Market 2023

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2023 in the Art Market has been one of readjustment and realignment, but thankfully not collapse – a market correction rather than the much talked about free-fall of the market.

2022 ended on a fever pitch high, with a slew of blockbuster auctions and record-breaking auctions – the Macklowe Collection brought in $922m at Sotheby’s, the Anne Bass Collection achieved $383m at Christie’s, and the Paul Allen Collection achieving just over $1.6b also at Christie’s – taking the honour of being the first sale to top the billion-dollar mark.

Yet even as these records were being made, savvy pundits predicted a gloomier future for 2023 which turned out to be true.

Surprisingly, it was the top end of the market, with its superior quality and strong provenance, that failed to deliver the goods in 2023. It was badly hit in comparison to 2022, generating a little more than half the sales value compared to the previous years. In 2023, the most expensive artworks at auction paled in comparison to last year. The top 100 lots at auction this year totalled $2.4 billion, compared to $4.1 billion in 2022.

Why is this? Experts cite higher interest rates, continued inflations, and the ongoing turbulence in the financial markets as reason for the dip – but economic jitters aren’t the only factor at play. The continuing war in Ukraine continues to negatively effect the global economy, as no doubt, the current Israeli/Palestinian war will too. Added to this, the post-pandemic exuberance of spending that fuelled the market in late 2021 and 2022 has certainly levelled off.

Across every category in the market, sales contracted in 2023 – but some were hit harder than others.

All of this has had a negative effect on the market – spooking all but the motivated seller from consigning their treasures to an increasingly unpredictable and volatile market. Just like the property market, why would you sell in a falling market? As a result, the number of works coming to auction hit a three-year low in the year’s first five months, and the contraction is most extreme on the high end. The May marquee auctions of Modern and Contemporary art in New York were noticeably underwhelming. The three main auction houses grossed an aggregate $1.4bn (with fees), significantly lower than the $2.5bn achieved the previous May, according to data provided by Pi-eX (the Londonbased art auction analysis firm).

Similarly, the up until now extra-hot, speculative/flip led market for young ultra contemporary artists also cooled down dramatically, with demand being far more measured than in 2022. In May 2022 in New York, Sotheby’s The Now sale of 23 recent works by coveted, hard-to-source names had been a bidding frenzy that achieved $72.9m. In stark contrast, just over a year later in June this year, Sotheby’s 14-lot London version of The Now format took £8.7m ($11m). This market had been characterised by heavy speculation and flipping by collectors keen to turn a quick (and often significant) profit on here to untested newcomers to the secondary market. However, market jitters have calmed this market down noticeably – with less activity from ‘flippers’ producing less demand and lower prices.

The biggest decline was in the Impressionist and Modern sector, whose sales plummeted by almost 30 percent year over year. The Postwar and Contemporary category had a slightly smaller dip of 23 percent. Ultra- Contemporary art, once the fastestgrowing category, took a tumble as the froth surrounding the market for young artists began to dissolve. It shrunk by 26 percent year over year. The most stable category turned out to be Old Masters, whose revenue declined a comparatively modest 6 percent. It remains one of the smallest markets by dollar value, second only to ultracontemporary (which covers around two dozen years of artistic production, while Masters embraces nearly six centuries).

Each of the big 3 auction houses saw their sales figures contract in 2023. Christie’s narrowly beat Sotheby’s in the race for the top spot, generating $8.9 million more in fine-art sales by mid 2023. Both houses saw revenue decline in the first five months of the year compared with the equivalent period in 2022. Christie’s was down 23 percent while Sotheby’s was down 20 percent. Hardest hit was Phillips, which reported $255 million in art sales, a 29 percent dip year over year, after reaching a record high in 2022.

In terms of the geographic split of the art market, the top three players stayed the same. The US reconfirmed it preeminence in this regard, albeit with sales down by 25 percent from the equivalent period in 2021, 2020, and 2019. China similarly reconfirmed its place as the second largest market, but in contrast to the US, its total sales spiked by more than 110 percent during the same period. The increase illustrates the continuing strength of the Chinese collector market, but it also reflects a statistical anomaly whereby several Chinese auction houses, including Poly International and Yongle Auctions, postponed their 2022 autumn sales to early 2023 in order to comply with government lockdowns, boosting the country’s spring results.

The UK market experienced a decline in sales of 27 percent but still held third place in the global art market. The impact of Brexit and the increase in overall in logistical and importation costs still continue to effect the profitability of Britian’s historic art market.

During the pandemic and the associated lockdowns, online and digital sales increased out of necessity and market survival and drove global art sales for this period. Now that in-person auctions have fully returned, online fineart sales are hitting a plateau—but they remain far above pre-pandemic levels. A total of $155.8 million worth of fine art was sold in online-only sales at Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Phillips, Bonhams, and Artnet Auctions in the first five months of the year. That’s down 5 percent from the equivalent period in 2022 and down 64 percent from 2021, when many high-profile sales had not yet returned to being held in-person. The 2023 total remains more than 300 percent higher than 2019, when online sales generated just $35.5 million in the year’s first five months. What has changed is the comfort level of collectors to purchase via online routes – the average price in 2023 for an online purchase has dropped to $17,794 which is lower than since 2019.

In conclusion, 2023 – whilst certainly not a bullish year, it has still proved to be a strong market with no collapse foreseen in the near future. Bearing in mind the overall global uncertainties, and the fact that purchasing art is not a survival purchase, this is no mean feat!

Adoration of the Magi and Shepherds

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“A cold coming, we had of it, just the worst time of year for a journey and such a long journey”, is how T.S. Eliot’s ‘Journey of the Magi’ begins. Semi-desert can be very cold on a clear night, and we know it was clear, because the wise men were following a star.

No-one knows when our saviour was born, but the early, persecuted Christians, probably celebrated Jesus’ birth on December 25th because the Romans were celebrating ‘Sol Invictus’, the birth of the unconquered sun, and Saturnalia when people feasted, exchanged gifts and did not have time to watch what the subversive Christians were up to.

In 336A.D., when Constantine, a Christian convert was Emperor, the church in Rome began to formally celebrate Christmas Day on December 25th.

As a child, I was fascinated by descriptions of the aftermath of his birth – the Adorations by Magi and Shepherds and started a collection of secondhand Christmas cards of these subjects. What particularly fascinated me was the contrast between the elaborately dressed Magi, a Magus is a wise man, with their extravagant and costly gifts adoring the Christ child and the simplicity and piety of the shepherds in their ragged clothes and offering a precious lamb as a gift.

Two of my favourite treatments of this subject are The Adoration of the Shepherds by Gerrit van Honthorst in The National Gallery and the Portinari Altarpiece in the Uffizi. Honthorst (1592-1656), was a Dutchman from Utrecht, who with two friends visited Rome in the early 17th Century and fell under the spell of Caravaggio and adopted his dramatic use of chiaroscuro (light and shade). He was known as Gherardo dalle Notti, Gerard of the Night, in Rome. This picture was painted there in 1610.

Adoration of the Child by Gerard van Honthorst

The Portinari Altarpiece was commissioned by Tomasso Portinari, a prominent banker, working for the Medici in Bruges, from the brilliant Flemish artist Hugo van der Goes (c.1430/40-1482) around 1472-5. The shepherds have coarse, sunburnt faces, rough hands and grimy fingernails, all of which is accentuated when one looks at the beautiful Virgin Mary, with her pale skin and delicate hands.

Portinari Altarpiece Hug van der Goes

Contrast these depictions of simple, pious shepherds, with Benozzo Gozzoli’s (c.1421-1497) ‘Procession of the Magi’ in the Palazzo Medici Riccardi in Florence.

The richly caparisoned horses, the smartly attired attendants and the exotically dressed Magi exude a sense of wealth and power. Benozzo and at least one assistant completed this miraculous fresco over a few months in 1459.

Procession of the Magi

These paintings remind me of happy Christmases past, and my scrapbook of Old Master adorations.

Winter Landscapes

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Have you ever stopped to wonder why, in the ‘Golden Age’ of English landscape painting (1750-1850), there are so few winter landscapes by the major practitioners of the genre. In the 18th Century there are none by George Lambert, Richard Wlson or Thomas Gainsborough and one has to rely on examples by lesser fry such as de Loutherbourg, J.C. Ibbetson and George Smith of Chichester.

In the next generation we have just a handful. ‘A Frosty Morning’ painted by J.M.W. Turner (1775-1851) of 1812, a copy of Jacob Ruysdael, by John Constable ( 1776-1837), who loved Ruysdael’s paintings and owned 4 of them and two by Francis Danby, A.R.A (1793-1861). The Danbys are ‘An Ice Slide’ of 1849, exhibited at the R.A. in 1850 and a study of children skating outside a woodman’s cottage, painted in the early 1820s.

It seems to be very odd there are so few, when one considers how many winter landscapes were painted in the Netherlands in the 17th Century and how prized by collectors and admired by artists in England such paintings were.

I think in large part it is due to studio practice in the late 18th and early 19th Centuries. Artists would go out sketching from Spring to Autumn, when the weather was relatively clement and then work up the sketches into finished easel pictures in the winter.

Constable travelled with a large and a small sketchbook everywhere he went, to record things of interest, including on honeymoon. I would like to hear from anyone who has a better explanation!

12 Days of Christmas

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In 2014, Sotheby’s sold a copy of ‘Mirth Without Mischief’ for $23,750, dating from 1780 in which the first version of the famous Christmas carol Twelve Days of Christmas appeared for the first time.

Some historians believe it could be French and could have been created as a memory game, to help Christians learn and remember the principles of their faith. Though this could and has been refuted by some, let’s have a look at what is gifted during the Twelve Days of Christmas.

On the first day of Christmas, my true love gave to me a partridge in a pear tree.

Day 2: two turtle doves
Day 3: three French hens
Day 4: four calling birds
Day 5: five gold rings
Day 6: six geese a-laying
Day 7: seven swans a-swimming
Day 8: eight maids a-milking
Day 9: nine ladies dancing
Day 10: 10 lords a-leaping
Day 11: 11 pipers piping
Day 12: 12 drummers drumming

Someone on the internet has very kindly converted what the cost of all those presents would be in today’s currency and this comes to approximately £35,000.

With this budget, here is my choice for what I would wear during the Twelve Days of Christmas.

The Twelve Days start on the 25th December, and in keeping with the festive red and religious aspect of the celebrations, an early 19th Century garnet and pearl cannetille cross pendant, which sold at Bonhams for £1,500.

On the 26th, with the nights still closing in early, a moonstone necklace such as this Edwardian pendant necklace selling for £995, to shimmer and capture all the starlight.

On the 27th, an emerald and diamond three-stone ring, such as the below selling for £2,950 at Fenton to echo the Christmas tree which might be losing a few needles by now…

On the 28th, it always feel like dates have ceased to matter, so as a special reminder, this Rolex DateJust 1601 in stainless steel, selling for £4,400. Discreet and elegant, it is worn as jewellery.

On the 29th, perhaps a night out in a restaurant dreaming of that sky trip would require novelty cufflinks, as these enamel and silver cufflinks by Francis & Deakin, selling for £315.

On the 30th, one will have a quiet night in before the New Year celebrations. It could be a night to remember and remind that wonderful person just how much you love them with a fancy coloured-diamond ring from De Beers. The below cluster ring is set with a 0.52ct fancy yellow diamond, VS1, within a surround and shoulder set with brilliant-cut diamonds and retails for £7,250.

On the 31st, to celebrate the new year offered to us as a gift, one could purchase these vintage Chanel earrings for £1,370 decorated with bows, like a gift to unwrap.

2024 will be the year of the Dragon in Chinese culture. Dragons symbolise courage, power and protection.

Therefore, to start the year, on the 1st January, let us internalise all these elements and choose to wear a dragonset jewel such as the Fabergé Palais Tsarkoye Selo Red Locket with Dragon Surprise by Fabergé, retailing for £12,000.

The 2nd January calls for a quiet cuppa, and how best to accessorise than with Tea for Two bangle by Hermès £485, decorated with enamel.

On the 3rd, perhaps one is gifting the last few presents of the season and this trio of brooches would make a lovely addition to any jewellery collection, sold for only £280 at Dawsons Auctions a few days ago.

The list wouldn’t be complete without referring to The Princess of Wales jewellery. The Princess is one to reuse dresses and outfits so we could certainly get inspired by her look from last year with the goldplated earrings she wore last Christmas from Cezanne, retailing for £100. No one will notice they aren’t sapphires…!

Finally, as we look to the future and the warmer weather to come, on the 5th January I would recommend the mother-of-pearl Sweet Alhambra bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels, retailing for £1,300. The butterfly motif reminds us that spring is not too far away, and with it the promise of longer days filled with possibilities…

All these gorgeous gifts bring us to a total of £32,855, well within our budget and enough to splurge on that meal, extra gift or trip away. Best Wishes to all.

Victorian Christmas Paintings: A Glimpse Into Festive Traditions

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Much of what we associate with Christmas today, with the exception of After Eights and Christmas jumpers, stems almost entirely from the Victorian era (1837-1901). Prince Albert introduced all of his German family’s Christmas traditions to the Royal household following his marriage to Queen Victoria in 1840. Christmas trees, cards, turkeys with all the trimmings and Christmas stockings were all enthusiastically taken up by Queen Victoria and as the key influencer of her day, her loyal subjects followed and fully embraced all the young Queen’s new and exciting festive family traditions.

Charles Dickens wrote about Christmas and Victorian painters in Europe and America alike brought these Christmas scenes and people to life. Santa Claus was brought to life by the American illustrator Thomas Nast who also invented the Christmas Card, another stroke of Victorian genius that brought a little bit of festive splendour through letterboxes around the world during the festive season.

Here are some common themes and elements found in Victorian Christmas paintings:

1. Family Gatherings: Victorian Christmas paintings frequently feature scenes of families coming together to celebrate the holiday. These gatherings often take place in beautifully decorated homes, with family members enjoying each other’s company.

2. Decorations: The Victorians were known for their elaborate Christmas decorations. Paintings from this era often showcase festively decorated Christmas trees adorned with candles, ornaments, and tinsel. Mistletoe and holly were also commonly used to decorate homes.

3. Gifts and Presents: Gift-giving was an important aspect of Victorian Christmas celebrations. Paintings might depict scenes of children eagerly unwrapping their presents, or the presentation of gifts to family members.

4. Caroling: Christmas carolers, often dressed in traditional Victorian clothing, are a common subject in these paintings. Carolers would go from house to house, singing festive songs to spread cheer.

5. Snowy Scenes: Many Victorian Christmas paintings depict snowy landscapes and scenes, introducing the idea of a “white Christmas.”

6. Feasting: A Victorian Christmas feast was an important tradition, and you can find paintings that feature festive tables laden with roast meats, puddings, and other holiday treats.

7. The Yule Log: The Yule log was a symbol of warmth and light during the Christmas season. Some paintings show families gathered around a fireplace with a burning Yule log.

8. Christmas Cards: Victorian Christmas cards, which gained popularity during this era, often featured sentimental and picturesque scenes. Paintings might show people exchanging or displaying these cards.

9. Acts of Charity: The Victorians placed a strong emphasis on acts of charity and goodwill during the Christmas season. Some paintings depict scenes of people helping the less fortunate, emphasising the importance of giving during the holiday.

10. Father Christmas: The modern image of Santa Claus, known as Father Christmas in the UK, started to take shape during the Victorian era. Paintings might feature the jolly figure of Father Christmas, sometimes dressed in green or other colours, distributing gifts to children.

Prominent artists of the Victorian era, such as John Callcott Horsley (British, 1817-1903) Thomas Nast, (American1840-1902) and Sir John Gilbert (British1817-1897), created Christmas-themed works that have become iconic representations of the holiday. These paintings continue to be cherished for their ability to capture the nostalgia and spirit of Victorian Christmas celebrations.

Watches in the Movies

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Thirty years ago, we wouldn’t be having this conversation. The art of film making in the early 1990s meant that story telling ranked far higher above the constant worry that film makers these days have that a prop might have been out of place, or even worse out of period.

My first experience of this was very early on in life (clearly, I was destined to be picky). It was after watching the fantastic film Backbeat about Liverpool’s finest export during the early Hamburg days. Now whilst the script may have embellished a few historical truths, what was clearly incorrect was some of the equipment used by The Beatles during the film – and if I at 12 years old could tell that some of the microphones were from the 1980s, well I am pretty sure that some other people could too, but – these were those halcyon days before the internet – where once ignorance was bliss, now there would be threads appearing and probable apologies by the directors.

So, in 2023, details count more than ever, and in recent years there has been a concerted effort to make sure that nobody can pick up on the little things that the average movie goer would never actually pick up on, but somebody would notice…. probably on the internet.

In the recent Oppenheimer film, we saw what can only be described visual love affair between Christopher Nolan and Hamilton watches, all historically accurate pieces for the film and when worn in chronological order by (the soon to be Oscar winning) Cillian Murphy, Emily Blunt, and Matt Damon. Nolan is a particular chap, and in this case, it has worked incredibly well – at the point of writing this, he has been rumoured to be talking with the Broccoli family – and I for one would love to see what he does with the Bond watch, especially after the last 20 years of pretty much the same Omega Seamaster.

Going back a little bit, let’s look at a few watches that got it totally 100% right before the time of internet forums and continuity enthusiasts….

First of all, if any watch defines the understated magnificence of a military piece, it’s the classic that is the Porsche Design Orfina Chronograph. As timeless as Tom Cruise’s face appears to be, it was one of the stars of the 1986 film Top Gun, and again was used in the visually incredible 2022 Maverick incarnation. As a true aerophile and pilot, Cruise will have made sure that the PVD coated watch was totally correct, and it was – and still looks amazing to this day.

Panerai are one of those brands that you love or cannot stand… and for those of you that have met me, you will know that I have a small collection of the oversized military based watches, that do get worn regularly – as far as utility watches go, they don’t get much simpler. Daylight was one of the first major times that one of the watches appeared on the silver screen with no less than Sylvester Stallone appearing alongside the PAM5218-201/A as pretty much co-stars in the film.

Panerai up until 1993 had not actually been available to the public, so this outing was really one of the first times the brand had been given major exposure, and subsequently went on to be a mainstay of the oversized watch world.

watches in the movies - Daylight

What is clear, as has been indicated by such modern films as Oppenheimer, and even the Barbie film (check out Ryan Gosling’s TAG Heuer collection) is that the watch world care about details, and because of that, film makers are paying more attention….

watches in the movies - oppenheimer

The Rebirth of the Icons

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There are many designer handbags which have stood the test of time and remain iconic, bags like the Chanel Classic and the Hermès Birkin. But this year has seen a rise in handbag icons being sourced from the archives, from the Gucci Horsebit design through to Prada’s re-issue nylon collection and unsurprisingly that’s driving up interest in the vintage originals.

We already know that over the last few years there has been a substantial rise in demand for preowned designer handbags. Brands such as Hermès, Chanel and Louis Vuitton make exceptional prices on the resale market with consumers paying a premium for a second-hand handbag. However, this year, with some retailers reissuing designs from the archives it has prompted a resurgence in some classic vintage styles. This has had a positive impact on what they achieve on the resell market. Here are our most popular designs for 2023, you may want to check the back of your wardrobe!

GUCCI

The Gucci Horsebit

This year Gucci has reissued Tom Ford’s 2003/2004 Horsebit clutch. The new designs feature the Italian fashion house’s signature hardware, and an updated chain. It comes in an array of colours and prints, including Gucci’s classic monogram design and iconic stripe. 20 years ago, this design was hugely popular for Gucci and this reissue has prompted an increase in the resell value for the original early noughties models. Here are some of the new designs issued by Gucci:

The Gucci Horsebit 1955 in Crocodile retails on Gucci’s website for £21,970.

HERMÈS

The Kelly

We can’t discuss popular handbags without mentioning Hermès. The Kelly was first popularised by Grace Kelly, and appeals to both investors and buyers alike.

Here is a vintage Kelly selling for £9,562.50 at Bonhams in 2021:

Hermès accessories are a real investment and will always stand the test of time. Their limited availability only adds to their desirability, and it is always worth hunting for that special piece.

Below is a charm selling at auction for between £4,000 – £6,000:

The Birkin

The Birkin is always in huge demand, with limited availability and exceptional craftsmanship, they remain, as ever, elegant and recognisable. They make real collector’s items.

Named after Jane Birkin, this example is her original black Togo Birkin 35 selling at auction for £119,000 in 2021.


FENDI

The Fendi Baguette handbag

There’s a huge appetite for Fendi at the moment, specifically for the Baguette, with sales of the style booming.

Thanks to the Y2K trend, the Fendi Baguette has proved popular this season. Channel your inner Carrie Bradshaw with a sequinned version.

DIOR

Dior Saddle Bag

Dior’s Saddle Bag first made an appearance in Dior’s 1999 spring/summer ready-to-wear show. It is thought to have been inspired by a 1976 Helmut Newton photograph entitled ‘Saddle I, Paris’. However, this theory has never been verified by Dior.

Here is the Saddle Bag selling at auction for €2,040:

Lady Dior

The iconic Lady Dior packs a lot of history. It was first created in 1995 and named after Diana, Princess of Wales. It was originally gifted to her by Bernadette Chirac, the First Lady of France at the time. During the most recent season of ‘The Crown’ the Lady Dior started to gain a lot of attention on social media.

In 2022 Dior launched what they described as “the (re)brith of an icon”, the Lady 95.22.

An example of a Lady Dior selling at auction for £7,650:

PRADA

First released in 1984, Prada’s Nylon Bags are just as desirable as they were 40 years ago. The revival has been so popular, that last year’s Prada’s Re-Nylon Re-Edition 2000 mini bag was named as Lyst’s ‘Handbag of the Year’. It’s reported that web searches increased by 131 per cent, with views for #pradanylonbag generating over 4.2 million views.

Proof that practicality and luxury can go hand-in-hand!

Gucci Horsebit Handbags - Handbag icons

 

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