Rowing in Style: CHANEL Brings Luxury to The Boat Race

Posted on April 10, 2025April 10, 2025 by Aurélia Turrall

This year’s long awaited boat race will take place on Sunday 13 April along the 4.25 miles between Putney and Mortlake and sees the teams of Oxford and Cambridge compete in this much beloved sporting event, established in 1829.

So why is a jewellery specialist reporting on this particular sporting event?

That’s because this year, the event, which is attended by over 250,000 spectators on the riverbank, watched on live television by millions and broadcast on the BBC, is sponsored by Chanel and will be known as The CHANEL J12 Boat Race.

“On behalf of the wider Boat Race community, we are so thrilled to welcome CHANEL as our new Title Sponsor.

We knew when we first met, on June 10 – the same date as the first ever Boat Race in 1829 – that they understood the appeal of our event and we’re very confident that their involvement will help us take the event to new places and new people, as well as enhancing it for our millions of existing followers.” Says Siobhan Cassidy, Chair of The Boat Race Company Ltd.

But why J12? The Chanel J12 is a unisex watch launched in 2000 by the luxury brand Chanel. It comes in white, black, with or without diamonds, and is mounted in ceramic and usually ranges in between £3,000 and £16,600.

The below J12 retails for £5,000 and is one of my personal favourites. Dress it up or down, it suits every occasion, well almost!

The diamond-set version retails for £16,600 and is also mounted in ceramic and stainless steel.

The name of the collection was inspired by the early 20^th century J Class 12-metre race boats.

Gabrielle Chanel, aka Coco Chanel, was an avid sportswoman. And most clothes of early 20^th century were rather restrictive. Stepping away from the Belle Epoque era with swags and flowers, jewels mounted en tremblant, Coco Chanel was one of the pioneers of short hair “à la garçonne” worn with stylish suits. New textured and fashion styles allowed women to dress as they choose to, with more freedom to enjoy the sports they wanted to such as cycling and horse riding. Newfound freedom, giving women a more masculine but still sexy look.

It is at the same time that Cartier had created the wristwatch, the Santos-Dumont. No more cumbersome watch chains and pocket watches. A simple turn of the wrist and voilà!

But for this event it is Chanel leading the way, rather than Cartier. Perhaps more synonymous of polo events and other horse related sports.

The President of CHANEL Watches & Fine Jewellery, Frédéric Grangié says “We are delighted to sign a strategic partnership with The Boat Race who share the same values of collective endeavour and the pursuit of excellence. It’s an honour to be the first ever official timekeeper in the race’s 195-year history to simultaneously become Title Sponsor and principal Partner.

“Synchronicity in rowing is as crucial to the race as watchmaking craftsmanship to ensure accurate timing. Every rower, like every mechanism in a watch, must work together as one; the balance, the weight and the oar movements must all be impeccably timed.

“We look forward to working with The Boat Race over the coming years to bring this partnership to life, through the world of CHANEL and our iconic J12 watches.”

For the last 25 years the J12 has not disappointed its clientèle and Chanel has adapted new styles and versions of this now iconic watch. The key to success is indeed reinvention. Such as their Premiere collection which has seen many tweaks over the years since its launch in 1987.

The below watch mounted in stainless steel retails for £4,400 and is a classic.

But Chanel launched in 2024 a version of the watch with headphones integrated: the Premiere Sound H10166. It retails for £12,600.

Innovation, reinvention and… quality. Those trademarks are key to Chanel and they have once again proven why they are a leading luxury brand.

We wish the teams best of luck!

Barry Humphries: a Passionate Book Collector

Posted on April 10, 2025April 10, 2025 by Richard Fattorini

While Barry Humphries’ flamboyant stage personas of Dame Edna Everage and Sir Les Paterson captivated audiences worldwide, his private passion lay in art collecting and the dedicated and determined pursuit of rare book collecting, amassing a library of some 7,000 volumes.

A Lifelong Love of Books

Barry Humphries’ fascination with books began while growing up in Melbourne, Australia and he had to overcome the resistance of his mother who disapproved of his second-hand book-buying habit. Humphries recalled his mother asking “Do you have to buy these bits and pieces? You never know where they’ve been!”; one day he came home from school to discover that his mother had given all his books away to the Salvation Army. When he asked why, his mother exclaimed “Because you’ve already read them!” A lesser person may have been deterred, but this episode appears to have inspired Humphries to collect even more.

The Collector’s Eye

Humphries’ literary tastes were broad, but he had a particular fondness for decadent and fin de siècle literature. He collected works by authors such as Oscar Wilde, Aubrey Beardsley, Max Beerbohm, and Ronald Firbank—writers known for their wit, eccentricity, and subversive takes on society. His library included rare first editions, signed copies, and obscure publications that many modern readers may not have encountered. He also collected Gothic novels, ghost stories and his library shelves were packed with the works of William Beckford, Matthew “Monk” Lewis, Wilkie Collins, M.R. James, Edgar Allan Poe, M.P. Shiel and Ambrose Bierce.

His passion also extended beyond English-language works, with an appreciation for French literature and he was particularly drawn to Symbolist and Surrealist writers, Charles Baudelaire, and finely illustrated editions. Humphries also had an eye for fine bindings and his library shelves were full of gilt-tooled goatskin bound volumes by great binders of the 20^th century.

On 13 February Christie’s held a live auction titled “Barry Humphries: The Collection”. The 241 lot sale featured paintings by the Australian impressionist artist Charles Conder, Dame Edna dresses and glasses; the sale also included a select group of some 80 rare books and manuscripts from Humphries’ private library which revealed a glimpse of the riches contained within.

Record Results

Many of the highest prices fetched for books in the Christie’s sale were for works by Oscar Wilde. Leading the Wilde selection was a special signed limited edition of The Importance of Being Earnest published in 1899, which was copy number 1 of just 12 large paper copies in a fine gilt decorated vellum binding designed by Charles Shannon. This copy had been presented by Wilde to his publisher Leonard Smithers and sold for £138,600, the second highest price recorded at auction. A first edition deluxe large-paper copy of the same work limited to 100 copies and signed by Wilde fetched £44,100.

Other notable results for works by Wilde included a record £35,280 bid for a first edition of A House of Pomegranates (1891) helped by the presence of two autograph manuscript pages by Wilde for his short story The Fisherman and his Soul. A deluxe large paper copy of The Picture of Dorian Gray limited to just 250 signed copies and with an autograph letter by Wilde bound-in fetched £50,400.

Among other highlights from the library sold at Christie’s was an original pen and ink design by Aubrey Beardsley for The Yellow Book which realised £60,480 and an illustrated autograph letter by Beardsley to his publisher that sold for £32,000.

A first edition of Aleister Crowley’s The Diary of Drug Fiend (1922) made a record £32,760 (estimate £2000-3000) due to its rare original pictorial dust-jacket of which very few examples survive. An inscribed copy of Matthew Lewis’s 1796 Gothic novel The Monk fetched a record £30,240 (estimate £2500-3500) and a presentation copy of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s This Side of Paradise (New York, 1920) realised £4,410.

The Barry Humphries auction at Christies realised a total of £4.6 million, of which the books and manuscripts accounted for almost £1 million.

A Second Selection from Barry Humphries’ Library

Following on from the success of the February sale, Forum Auctions held a sale on 26 March billed as “The Library of Barry Humphries”. This sale of 243 lots of books and manuscripts also offered works on paper and a few objets from Humphries’ library, including bronze sculptures and bookends. In the Forum catalogue introduction Rupert Humphries described his father’s library as follows: “Thick curtains were shut to keep out natural lights, and deep purple, red, black and yellow spines lined the sagging shelves with books stacked two, sometimes three layers deep. Many in morocco leather boxes with ornate gilt designs that he had commissioned […] The warm glow of iridescent glass lamps and a heavy art-deco chandelier, the smell of incense in the air. It was like a setting from one of the decadent stories he loved so much, maybe Prince Zaleski’s dilapidated abbey in Wales.”

Leading the Forum results was a superb set of four special editions of Evelyn Waugh’s novels, Decline and Fall, Vile Bodies, A Handful of Dust, and Black Mischief. These were each limited to just 12 copies printed for the author. This particular set had been presented by Waugh to Thomas Balston, director of the publishers Duckworth and Co. who had given Waugh his first advance for his biography of Rosetti. This handsome set bound in blue morocco fetched £19,530.

The sale was arranged chronologically and began with books from the late 18^th century, notably a collection of books by and from the library of the novelist and eccentric English dilettante William Beckford (1760-1844). Highlights included a first edition of Beckford’s novel Vathek (1786) which was handsomely bound in red morocco and had been owned by Lady Caroline Lamb which realised £10,080. The same price was bid for a second edition of Samuel Rogers’s poem Human Life which contained an original watercolour portrait of the author as well as Beckford’s typically caustic comments written in pencil.

One of the outstanding bindings was an Art Nouveau design by a pioneer of modern German bookbinding Paul Kersten which realised £11,500. A first edition of Charles Baudelaire’s Les Fleurs du Mal (1857) was bid to £10,710; a rare presentation copy of Mrs Riddell’s Weird Stories (1882) fetched £6930; and Arthur Machen’s own copy of his collection of short stories The House of Souls (1906) made £2016.

A Legacy in Literature

The Forum sale realised a total of £615,000 with 87.2% of lots sold. Rupert Humphries concluded his introduction by commenting “As this sale commences I like to think that [my father] will be happy knowing that a little part of him will continue to be treasured in other libraries and bookcases around the world, and perhaps even in a few old book shops”. I have no doubt to say I am certain they will and I like to think that others will be inspired to start their own collections of books on whatever subjects or authors interest them.

Book Valuations

For books that are sold at auctions like this, we would suggest insurance values that match the price they sold for at auction – at least in the immediate period after the sale.

Valuing books is complex because their worth depends on multiple factors beyond age and rarity. Condition is crucial – a book with its original dust jacket can be worth many times more than one without, especially for 20th-century first editions. Inscriptions and signatures also impact value, but not always positively; a book signed by the author to a notable figure can increase its worth significantly, while a generic inscription may have little effect. Provenance matters too – books from famous collections or with unique associations often command higher prices. Additionally, first editions vary by publisher, print run, and issue points, making identification and valuation a specialised skill requiring detailed knowledge and expertise.

If you have a collection of books, photographs or maps, get in touch to arrange an up to date valuation by emailing us on [email protected] or call us on 01883 722736.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Tribute to Paris, the City of Pearls

Posted on April 3, 2025April 2, 2025 by Liz Bailey

Last month, jewellery specialist Liz Bailey visited the ‘Paris – City of Pearls’ Exhibition hosted by Van Cleef & Arpels L’Ecole School of Jewellery Arts. Held at the Hôtel de Mercy-Argenteau, nestled in a busy Parisian boulevard, VCA’s L’Ecole hosts regular lectures and exhibitions. Running until June of this year is this wonderful exhibition, documenting Paris’ unique position as the undisputed European ‘City of Pearls.’

Featuring pieces from France’s Third Republic onwards, the exhibition traces the exciting period from the late 1860s when many pearls found their way to the most prestigious jewellers in Paris on the Place Vendome and Rue de la Paix from the Arab and Persian Gulf. These great jewellers avidly sought out the finest pearls to adorn the aristocratic elite.

Examples from the French Art Nouveau are also on display from Vever, Fouquet and Lalique. These pieces differed drastically from their Belle Epoque contemporaries that opted for small, uniform pink pearls from the Gulf. These creative pieces instead displayed the beautiful free forms of baroque and Mississippi pearls, with these designers frequently favouring their unusual shapes and colours, as well as their comparable availability! A personal highlight was this stunning corsage ornament dating to circa 1900 by Henry Vever, designed as a wonderful sprawling flower, the petals in the form of Mississippi pearls with diamond centres and stems, and breathtaking plique-a-jour enamel foliage.

During the height of ‘pearl-mania’ in the early 20^th century, Cartier was certainly one of the jewellers that created the most exquisite pieces, in jewellery and even watches. This exhibition displayed two beautiful Cartier bracelet watches, each with platinum cases and set with natural pearls to the crown, lugs and bracelet. It was in America however that the value of pearls reached its highest point, and in 1917 Jacques’ brother Pierre notoriously acquired his mansion on New York’s Fifth Avenue, acquired in exchange for a double strand pearl necklace.

The 1920s saw the Parisian fashion for pearls extend across the media, with these biogenic gems everywhere, from opera to cinema, literature posters and magazines. The International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts showcased some of the most spectacular designs of the time and was the impetus for some breathtaking Art Deco pearl jewellery. Whilst the fresh arrival of the cultured pearl from Japan was a part of the public consciousness at this time, “for a while the demand for the natural pearl continued to increase,” only weakened by the economic crisis of 1929 and further with World War II.

Post-war pieces in the exhibition included both cultured and natural pearl pieces, representative of the growth in popularity of cultured pearl jewellery from this point onwards, with many Parisian merchants such as the Rosenthals even moving to Tahiti to reorient their business around the region’s black pearls. Strict trading agreements and initiatives are in place between France and the Gulf region to ensure the sustainability and success of the pearl.

Contemporary pieces on display include the iconic JAR sheep’s head clip, created by the infamously mysterious Parisian jeweller in 2006, and sold at Christies Paris in 2021 for €500,000. Another breathtaking jewel was a the ‘Cadeau Imperial’, a natural pearl, mystery-set ruby and diamond multi strand collar necklace, dating to 2011.

From the sky-high value of pearls during the early 20^th century ‘pearl-mania,’ to the post-war cooling of prices and influx of cultured pearls onto the market, the values of pearls, as with any commodity, are subject to rise and fall. In the last year, we have seen a strengthening in prices for designer cultured pearl pieces, and a continued buoyancy for natural pearl pieces. To ensure your pearls are adequately covered, contact our team today for a specialist valuation.

L’Ecole School of Jewellery Arts was founded in 2012 with support from Van Cleef & Arpels, with schools in Paris, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Dubai and other locations. Created to make jewellery accessible to all and running a fantastic array of exhibitions, courses, podcasts and programmes, L’Ecole is certainly an organisation to be on any jewellery enthusiast’s radar! Paris City of Pearls will run until June of this year.

Holding it all together: The Key to Keeping Jewellery Secure

Posted on March 27, 2025April 2, 2025 by Jenny Knott

Eagle eyed observers at the Commonwealth Service on 11th March this year, noticed that something was absent from The Princess of Wales’ otherwise immaculate and eye-catching ensemble.

One tiny diamond was missing from the drop pearl and diamond earrings that she was wearing. These earrings had been gifted to Princess Diana by Collingwoods. They were a favourite of Diana and are now much loved by Princess Catherine. Few jewellery collections are better maintained than those of the Royal family, yet this event shows that accidents can happen to even the best cared for jewels. For those of us without entourages to look after these things, we need to be even more vigilant about our jewellery.

Buying, acquiring or even inheriting jewellery can be so wonderfully exciting that when picking out the perfect necklace, earrings, bracelet or ring, the last thing that most people consider is the clasp, catch or claws. However, we should give these much more attention, as this is that will keep those much prized stones in place, or even keep the necklace or bracelet around your neck or wrist. I write as someone who found a much loved chain link bracelet in an umbrella stand when it had broken as I took a coat off and inadvertently flung the bracelet into this receptacle. The discovery was several years after I thought I had lost it forever; not all mishaps end so well.

As heart-breaking as it is to discover your jewellery has been lost or damaged, it will add insult to injury to then be told that your insurance policy does not cover you. Jewellery insurance typically covers damage, theft, or loss, but whether it specifically covers clasps and settings depends on the terms of the policy. Many policies state that claws and clasps must be regularly checked by an expert and this, along with valuations, are often able to highlight possible problems before they become a disaster.

Things of which to be mindful include:

Remember that gold is a soft material, the higher the carat of gold the softer it is, therefore claws on rings are susceptible to wearing down, or catching on threads of clothes and peeling back.
Clasps on necklaces can suffer loss of their spring mechanism.
Links in a bracelet can wear and become thin, as can the shanks on rings, especially when worn stacked with other rings. Shanks can split.
Pearls and bead necklaces should always be knotted so stop beads spilling everywhere if broken. Knotted necklaces should be checked regularly, especially if they are frequently worn.

There are some easy ways to help mitigate against the chance of accidental damage or loss.

Rings:

Claws do not necessarily need to be replaced; they can often be retipped.

Clasps:

Clasps are critical to ensure that jewellery stays in place. There are many choices of clasps. The jump ring or spring ring clasp. This is the most common and consists of a metal jump ring with a spring loaded mechanism which opens and closes with applied pressure. The lobster claw clasp, which works in a similar way to the jump ring clasp but are often larger. Both work well unless the spring mechanisms fail. Antique necklaces often have box clasps, which have a tab or prong which fits into the ‘box’ and snaps into place. These work well as long as the fit stays tight.

Safety chains:

These are small chains attached to jewellery which add an extra level of additional security to prevent loss. On bracelets and necklaces, a safety chain will join the ends should the clasp fail. On a brooch it is often attached to a small pin which is to be used in tandem with the main brooch pin.

Earring backs:

Unless your earrings have integral fittings I think the safest fittings are alpha backs. You can see from the diagram that the posts are notched, and the spring clasps ensure that they can’t come away. If you have earrings with a shepherd’s crook fitting, which are common with antique pendant earrings, you can add an extra level of security with a plastic stopper.

As the Princess of Wales images proves accidents do happen but reducing the chances of mishaps might save your precious jewellery. Precious does not just apply to value, sentimental attachment can be far more emotive than actual cost.

The three crucial steps are:

Have clasps, claws and settings regularly checked by an expert, especially if after checking your policy your insurance is predicated on this as a requirement.
Repair and replace broken, elements in your jewellery and regularly restring necklaces.
Buy clasps, safety chains and earring backs that are best suited to the security of your jewellery.

TEFAF Maastricht: The Jewellery & Watches That Stole the Show

Posted on March 20, 2025March 20, 2025 by Liz Bailey

The European Fine Art Foundation, or TEFAF was founded in 1988, and holds two major international fairs per year, the TEFAF New York, covering Modern and Contemporary Art and Design, as well as its flagship event, the TEFAF Maastricht, which ran from 15^th-20^th March this year.

TEFAF Maastricht showcases 7,000 years of art history and provides international dealers and collectors with the opportunity to present and acquire fine and museum quality works, including paintings, sculpture, furniture, collectables, books, and of course – fine jewellery and watches.

If, like me, you have missed your first-class ticket to New York this week, here are my ‘top picks’ of the pieces on display at this year’s fair.

Surely one of the jewellery ‘headliners’ at this year’s fair is of course Van Cleef & Arpels, who were exhibiting around 30 pieces available to purchase from their heritage collection. A collection I would personally love to see, the selected pieces reflect the maison’s impact and excellence in 20^th century jewellery design.

The Orsay Bracelet, a platinum ruby and diamond bangle with VCA’s signature ‘mystery setting’ – an innovation in the 1930s of setting stones with seemingly no metal holding them in place – and a brand hallmark that continues into present collections. This bangle dates from 1994.

Another masterpiece on display is a platinum, turquoise and diamond necklace from the 1950s. Dating to circa 1955, this exquisite piece reflects the brand’s appreciation for jewellery history, decorated with floral garlands and a graduated design, and of course fine turquoise drops.

Epoque Fine Jewels from Belgium were also at the fair, exhibiting an incredible Art Nouveau gold, diamond, enamel and glass choker by René Lalique. Dating to circa 1905, this exceptional choker necklace is interspersed with Lalique’s wonderful glass panels moulded with thistle flowers and accented beautifully with a rich yellow gold setting, brown enamel border and sparkling diamond detailing. This was a real treat to see in person!

Contemporary jewels to really catch my eye from the fair are on offer from Hemmerle, Feng J and Margot Mckinney. Hemmerle are previewing a pair of beautifully naturalistic pinecone earrings cast in copper and white gold, and accented with natural pearls and diamonds. Meanwhile, Australian fourth generation jeweller Margot McKinney has a typically vibrant, vivid and colourful collection of jewels that encompass a wonderful exuberance and joy- it is hard to pick a favourite!

Somlo London of Burlington Arcade have on display two beautiful Patek Philippe pocket watches, each exceptional in their own right, with an option for him and for her.

The first is an 18ct gold Perpetual Calendar hunter pocket watch with equation of time. This fine timepiece dates to 1982, and is double stamped with Patek Philippe, and the retailer of the piece, Beyer of Zurich. A sophisticated, and complicated timepiece, this watch displays the difference between mean solar time, or our conventional time, and true solar time, based on the actual position of the sun. Owing to the Earth’s orbit, this discrepancy can fluctuate throughout the year, and is reflected in the -15 and +15 subsidiary scale to 12 – now how many watches can do that!

My second selection from Somlo is this beautifully decorated Patek Philippe fob watch, crafted circa 1889. Cased in 18ct gold and detailed with split pearls, this fob watch is hand painted to the case back with an enamel portrait of Saint Fabiola, an early Christian Saint.

So there we have it, my round up of the TEFAF works and exhibitors to keep on your radar, whether you are lucky enough to attend this international event, or, like me, will be looking on enviously! Let us know which pieces have caught your eye!

To arrange a jewellery valuation contact us on 01883 722736 or email [email protected]

Glasgow’s Burrell Collection: A Hidden Treasure in the Park

Posted on March 20, 2025March 20, 2025 by Fiona Hamilton

No cultural city break to Glasgow is complete without a visit to the fabulous Burrell Collection. This striking purpose-built museum opened in 1983.

The first year saw one million visitors through the doors and the opening helped launch the rebirth of the arts in Glasgow, a wonderful contrast to the previous decades of post-industrial decline.
This incredible collection comprises in the region of nine thousand exhibits, all of which were gifted to the city by William Burrell (1861-1958).

Burrell had very specific wishes regarding the housing of his collection and stipulated that in order for the collection to be fully appreciated visitors had to view it within a countryside setting. Finally, in 1983, after many years of searching for a the right location, the award-winning museum opened in Pollok Country Park to much critical and public acclaim. Situated in three hundred and sixty one acres of wooded parkland and gardens the site also boasts a herd of Highland Cattle!

Following a £68.25 million refurbishment, the museum reopened in 2017 after a closure of six years.

Glasgow shipping magnate Sir William Burrell (1861-1958) spent his childhood in Glasgow. His love for art became apparent when at aged fifteen he invested in his first acquisition, a painting, bought with money that had been given to him, ear-marked for the purchase of a cricket bat. This was to become the beginning of his love of art and antiques. After joining his father and brother in the family business he made some shrewd investments which then enabled him to carry on learning, researching and purchasing art for the rest of his life.

This remarkable collection is formed of an eclectic array of art and antiques, (including more than twenty works by Degas), Highlights include ‘The Thinker’ by Auguste Rodin, 12th century arms and armour, medieval works of art, a number of the world’s most important tapestries and a renowned collection of Chinese art.

By 1900 William Burrell was well respected collector who had built up his extensive knowledge and he was generous with loaning out items for exhibitions from his collection.

1901 saw the Glasgow International Exhibition, in Kelvingrove Park. Running from May until November of that year, displays included sculptures of soap, an Indian theatre and various works of art, one hundred and sixty of which were loaned by William Burrell.

Sir William was a strong believer in free education for everyone and he believed that the people of the city should have access to his remarkable collection. In 1944, he and his wife Constance generously gifted the Collection to the City of Glasgow.

I was fortunate enough to have been involved in a study day behind the scenes of The Burrell back in 1997. The warren-like basement holds a large percentage of the collection’s objects. Handling the beautifully catalogued and meticulously stored objets d’art, it felt like a day in Aladdin’s Cave and was an experience I will never forget.

Fiona’s pick of The Burrell

If I was to choose one item from the thousands on display it would have to be the mesmerising Greek cast Bronze of a young man, found at Thessaly and dating from 100BC – 100 AD.

Easily accessible by car and local train The Burrell Collection also boasts a light and airy café with park views, and a well-stocked shop making it perfect for a full day out.

See www.burrellcollection.com

“The Burrell Collection is one of Europe’s most beautiful museums…There is nowhere like this place”
Edwin Heathcote, Financial Times, March 2022.

Rachel Ruysch – The Flourishing Career of a Forgotten Old Master

Posted on March 12, 2025March 13, 2025 by David Dallas

Continuing on the theme of famous female Old Master painters, I am turning my attention to Rachel Ruysch (1664-1750). She has many virtues. Apart from being a wonderful painter, she has been very thoughtful to future generations of scholars by almost always signing her works and giving her age, so a chronology of her oeuvre is simple to work out. This is a practice she began at 15 and continued until she was 83, although she lived to be 86 and was married for 52 years.

She had several advantages at the start of her career. The first of which was being born in the Hague to Frederick Ruysch, a professor of anatomy and botany (she was to become the most famous flower painter of her generation) and Maria Post, whose uncle Frans was a distinguished landscape painter famous for his views painted in the Dutch colony of Nieuw Holland, in Brazil. Another boon was to be apprenticed to the brilliant Delft still life painter Willem van Aelst (1627-1683), who had so impressed Ferdinand II de Medici, when court painter in Florence, that he gave van Aelst a gold medal and chain at a public ceremony to acknowledge his genius.

Her early works are forest floor scenes in the manner of Matthias Withoos and Otto Marseus van Schrieck, which allowed her to introduce various insects and lizards amongst the plant roots, which she would have copied as a child in her father’s private museum. He had invented a technique for embalming plants and animals, the secrets of which he refused to divulge.

At the age of 15 she was apprenticed to Willem van Aelst and he taught her the art of composing bunches of flowers in a vase in a naturalistic way, even though many of the plants could not have been blooming at the same time. The meticulously painted petals are enlivened by dewdrops, ants, caterpillars and other plant-loving insects.

In 1693 she married the portrait painter Juriaen Pool and they subsequently had 10 children. Childcare was not a problem, as Rachel’s flower pieces sold for between 750-1,250 guilders. To put this in context, Rembrandt rarely received more than 500 guilders for a picture in his lifetime, but he did produce the ‘1000 guilder’ print. In the portrait of her by her husband, Juriaen Pool, she sits with her head in her right hand, a symbol of melancholy and genius, since antiquity, whilst her husband, who is in the background both physically and metaphorically, points to one of her pictures on the easel.

At the end of the century, she and Juriaen moved to The Hague and became members of the Painter’s Guild there in 1701. She was the first female member of the Artists’ Society, The Confrerie Pictura. From 1708-1716 she worked in Dusseldorf as Court Painter to Johann Wilhelm, the Elector Palatine.

She continued to produce brilliant flower still lifes into the middle of the 18th Century and her reputation was such that at her death in 1750, eleven poets paid their respects by writing poems about her.

Although she has always been a sought-after artist by connoisseurs, she is not a household name today. As she was a relatively prolific painter, over 250 works by her are known, she appears at auction on a regular basis, 71 paintings in the last 35 years. The world record price at auction is £1.65M and 9 of her paintings have made more than half a million dollars. If you would like to see works by Rachel Ruysch, The National Gallery in London has three. Furthermore, there is a wonderful exhibition dedicated to her work, currently at the Altepinakotech in Munich until March 16th. It then relocates to Toledo, Ohio from April 13th – July 22nd and ends its tour at the MFA in Boston from August 23rd to December 7th. I think it more than justifies a trip to New England in the fall!

PS…
When she was around the age of 50, she won 70,000 guilders in a lottery and gave up painting for a while!

Votes for Women: The Legacy of the Suffragettes

Posted on March 6, 2025March 10, 2025 by Fiona Hamilton

As we approach Spring and International Women’s Day, it seems the perfect time to take a moment to remember the huge sacrifices made by thousands of pioneering women in the 19th and early 20th century, in the bid to gain votes for women. Jeopardising their lives, safety and often their place in society this incredible group secured the right to vote for future generations.

Although it was as early as 1832 that the first petition of Women’s Suffrage was presented to Parliament, it was the years that followed which saw the movement gain momentum.

As one of the most recognisable names associated with the vote for women campaign Emmeline Pankhurst was involved with Women’s Suffrage from 1880 and was one of the original founding members of the Women’s Social and Political Union (WSPU), the motto of which was ‘Deeds Not Words. Led by an all-female staff, in a combination of paid and volunteer roles, 1906 saw the WSPU headquarters open in central London. This quickly became the base for planning the more confrontational stage of the campaign and the use of more radical tactics, and planned protests started to appear, alongside a more creatively-minded publicity campaign. A weekly newspaper was launched and by 1909 it had a circulation of an impressive 22,000. Various fundraising events and high profile demonstrations were planned throughout the ninety regional offices.

Following this increase in headline-catching protests more than thirteen hundred women were incarcerated, a large percentage in Holloway Prison, which became all female prison in 1903. The following poem was penned by Kathleen Emerson who was jailed for taking part in the mass window breaking in London, 1912.

The Women in Prison by Kathleen Emerson (1912)

Oh, Holloway, grim Holloway
With grey, forbidding towers!
Stern are they walls, but sterner still
Is woman’s free, unconquered will.
And though to-day and yesterday
Brought long and lonely hours,
Those hours spent in captivity
Are stepping-stones to liberty.

Although Millicent Fawcett, Christabel and Emmeline Pankhurst are amongst the most recognisable names in suffrage history it is a myth that the groups were made up of entirely middle-class white women. In fact, the cause attracted women of many classes and nationalities. It was reported by inmates at the time that depending on their class the women were treated very differently.

Having had a privileged upbringing, Queen’s Victoria’s goddaughter Sophia Duleep Singh, an important supporter of Indian heritage in Britain, dedicated much of her time to campaigns and worthy causes and became one of the more militant campaigners. We continue to pay tribute and recognise the selfless acts of the countless courageous women who fought against the odds for their future, the future of their families and of generations of women to come.

Selected significant dates:

1832
First petition on women’s suffrage presented to Parliament.
1889
The Women’s Franchise League is formed and aims to win the vote for married women as well as single and widowed women.
1897
Formation of the National Union of Women’s Suffrage Societies (NUWSS), led by Millicent Fawcett (1847-1929).
1903
The Women’s Social and Political Union (WSPU) is founded in Manchester by Emmeline Pankhurst (1858-1928).
1908
Hunger striking adopted as a WSPU strategy leading to forcible feeding in 1909.
1909
Muriel Matters hires an airship painted ‘Votes For Women’ to fly over The House of Commons dropping propaganda leaflets.
1913
‘The Cat and Mouse Act’, is introduced, targeting suffragettes on hunger-strike permitting them to be released into the community to then be rearrested once they had regained their health.
1914
Britain declares war on Germany on 4 August. 1914-18 saw an estimated two million women replace men in traditionally male jobs.
1918
The Representation of the People Act is passed on 6 February giving women the vote provided they are aged over 30 and either they, or their husband, meet a property qualification and women vote in a general election for the first time on 14 December with over eight million women eligible.
1928
The Equal Franchise Act is passed giving women equal voting rights with men. All women aged over 21 can now vote in elections. Fifteen million women are eligible.

Notable auction highlights of suffragette related ephemera

The above five lots were part of the auction ‘Votes For Women, the Lesley Mees Collection.’ Bonhams, Knightsbridge, 22 September – 33 October 2023. Photographs courtesy of Bonhams.
For further information, artefacts and objects relating to the campaign, please visit The London Museum.

To arrange a valuation please call us on 01883 722736 or email us on [email protected].

Who Inspires Us? The Women Who Drive Our Passion

Posted on March 6, 2025March 20, 2025 by Rachel Doerr

Rachel Doerr, Managing Director

“For me, it starts with my mum. She always encouraged me and pushed me forward. Her influence extended to the music she played, like Joni Mitchell, Diana Ross and Barbra Streisand. Their voices of strength left a lasting impression.
In my career, I have been lucky to have strong women believe in me, like Ann Coad and Christel Goldthorpe. Now, I am surrounded by an incredible team, from jewellery and silver specialists to our brilliant admin and marketing teams. On this special day, I want to thank them all.”

Aurélia Turrall, Jewellery Specialist

“The women who inspire me in my industry are my Doerr Dallas Valuations colleagues. Each and every one of these extraordinary women has a wealth of knowledge that is only fictionalised in most books and films. Each one excels in one specific area and everyday I try to better myself by learning from them all, whether it be knowledge on instruments and kit to purchase to perfect valuations, or knowledge about a specific jewellery brand, gemstone or period in time. The rise of AI means nothing when you work with such splendid minds!”

Stephanie Connell, Senior Valuer & Collectibles Specialist

“On International Women’s Day it is important to me to consider all of the female designers and artists whose work has been pivotal but whose names have been overlooked or forgotten. One such designer is Clara Driscoll. Clara was one of the most important glass designers of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Her work was produced for Tiffany Studios – so if you can imagine the famous Tiffany lamps – the design you’re thinking of was likely created by Clara Driscoll.”

Francesca Orme, Jewellery Specialist

“My grandmother Maria Valentini is who I’d like to recognise for International Women’s Day. An inspiration not only as a woman but my reason for loving working with jewellery and appreciating all aspects of it.”

Kristin Panagiotou, Administration Manager

“The former Vice-President, Kamala Harris, is someone who I find inspirational. As the first woman to hold the position of Vice-President, as well as the first South Asian American and first Black American, she tirelessly worked and continues to break boundaries by striving to improve immigration policy, women’s rights and gun violence to name a few. Through her perseverance, activism and commitment to fighting injustice she is an inspiration to all women, young and old.”

Fiona Hamilton, Silver Specialist

“Miranda Leslie née Grant is also from the Highlands of Scotland and came to Bonhams Edinburgh in 2002 as Head of Jewellery and Silver, becoming Managing Director in 2008. Miranda was charismatic, generous with her expansive knowledge, and supportive and I feel privileged to have had her as a mentor.”

Jenny Knott, Silver & Jewellery Specialist

“International Women’s day gives us an opportunity to remember the pioneering women upon whose shoulders we stand. I am inspired by women, who against the odds, and often in the face of personal loss and economic imperative, forged careers as silversmiths and businesswomen; most famously, but by no means uniquely, Hester Bateman. A few years ago, I came across the work of Rauni Higson. I love the naturalist flow to her work. Since seeing and valuing some of her pieces, I have followed her career. I love her sentiment that silver is ‘a magical material that responds to light like nothing else except perhaps the moon. It has entranced humans forever, and it is extraordinary malleability means that almost any form that can be imagined can be realised, with enough time, skill and patience’. Having been tutored herself by master craftsmen, she now mentors up and coming silversmiths. She lives and works in Snowdonia, and her connection to the landscape is self-eident in her work. For silversmithing to continue as a craft we need craftspeople like Rauni with her integrity, skill and innovation.”

Jenny Serra, Marketing Manager

“This year, my inspiration for International Women’s Day is the iconic Iris Apfel, who passed away last year at the age of 102. The recent auction of her clothes and jewellery highlighted just how remarkable she was. She secured her first modelling contract at 97 and lived boldly, unapologetically, and entirely on her own terms. Her fearless approach to life is something to aspire to. If I can make it to 100 while embracing even a fraction of that spirit, I would consider it an incredible achievement.”

Jane Vann, Private Client Services Administrator

“Anne, The Princess Royal, is a very inspirational, hard working & brave woman.
Her no nonsense approach has stood her in good stead for many years, enabling her to become a top level event rider and the first Royal to compete in the Olympic Games. She also had to endure an attempt in her life & failed kidnapping in 1974. She is probably the hardest working member of the Royal family & I really admire her dedication, determination & no fuss attitude – she is very inspirational!”

Ashley Crawford, Asian Art Expert

“One of my favorite female artists is Akiko Higashimura, an author of josei manga, or “women’s comics”. Higashamura has achieved wide success in what otherwise remains a male-dominated field, with her books translated into many languages and frequently adapted to anime and live-action TV series and films. Her plots feature imperfect heroines navigating their way through issues that women face in modern-day Japan. It goes without saying that Higashimura’s novels pass the Bechdel test! Higashimura and her heroines are admirable role models to celebrate this International Women’s Day and I’m looking forward to reading what she publishes next!”

Liz Bailey, Jewellery, Silver & Watch Specialist

“Doerr Dallas is host to a wonderful selection of women who I absolutely admire! From the wonderful MD Rachel, the team in marketing and administration to our selection of specialists. This group of women is immensely dedicated, knowledgeable and supportive of one another. The breadth and depth of knowledge of the team is something that I really appreciate and admire. The six of us jewellery girls have combined decades of experience – between us the amount of jewellery and watches we will have valued collectively is staggering! It is always a great pleasure to talk with and learn from the other specialists we have in the team, covering silver, collectables, Asian art, fashion and Russian works of art to name a few!”

To arrange a valuation for your items please call us on 01883 722736 or email us on [email protected]

Diamond Prices and Jewellery Insurance – The Truth Behind the Headlines

Posted on February 27, 2025February 27, 2025 by Annabell Parry

Anyone in the jewellery or related industries can’t open their laptop without being hit by another doom-laden headline about diamond prices.

The latest reports declare that Anglo American, the majority owner of De Beers, has published another vast write-down of its investment. Meanwhile, Alrosa, the Russian diamond giant, has been propped up by the Russian government. Both companies are reportedly stockpiling around $2 billion worth of unsold diamonds in an increasingly challenging global market, driven by geopolitical tensions and advancing technology.

These are mining giants, and the headlines are dramatic. However, it takes around two years for a diamond to move from the mine to the shop window. This is a crucial factor when valuing an engagement ring. Despite the headlines, these market shifts do not immediately affect valuations or replacement costs. Diamond prices fluctuate constantly, and experienced valuers rely on top trade sources such as RapNet. The best valuers consult at least three independent sources for each stone they assess.

A knowledgeable valuer will also understand the impact of Russian sanctions introduced in 2024, the conflict in the Middle East, and the downturn in Chinese middle-class spending. All of these factors influence diamond pricing and the ability to source replacements in case of loss.

The Danger of Headlines

Professional brokers, insurers, and jewellery owners are often short on time, scanning dozens of headlines each day. Decisions made solely on headlines risk being based on incomplete or misleading information. At worst, they could be influenced by an opinion piece paid for by a company with something to sell.

Diamonds hold a unique place in the retail market, as they have for centuries. Once reserved for royalty and the wealthiest elites, diamonds became a mainstream expectation by the 1950s, particularly as engagement rings for modern, independent women.

The Perception of Falling Prices

“But diamond prices are falling,” you may say.

Historically, younger buyers and the bridal market have been major consumers of small natural diamonds. However, over the past decade, their social feeds have been flooded with man-made diamonds (not ‘laboratory-grown’ which is a misnomer) and high-quality, stylish dress jewellery from brands like TJC and Pandora. The shift in pricing, environmental concerns, and changing consumer preferences have had a major impact on the lower-to-mid market.

It is true that diamonds under 1.50ct have seen price drops, in some cases by as much as 30%, as their key buyers have moved away.

Prices are per diamond for a round brilliant cut, F colour VS1 clarity GIA diamond Report in March of each year.

These are approximate selling prices in the UK at that time with the historic approximate retail margins and timely interest rates taken into consideration.

But Do Not Be Fooled

The high-net-worth market is thriving.

Diamonds over 2ct have always been beyond the reach of most buyers, making them the preferred size for professionals and affluent individuals. Second marriages, milestone anniversaries, or the sale of a business often drive purchases at this level. This is not the market that man-made diamonds have disrupted.

For high-net-worth and ultra-high-net-worth clients, jewellery values are not falling. Rubies bought in the 1990s, heirloom Art Deco and Cartier pieces, and upgraded engagement rings all hold their worth. In fact, many of my clients own multiple engagement rings, one for weekday wear and another for weekends.

Man-made diamonds are certainly purchased, but often as travel jewellery or gifts for daughters rather than as investment pieces.

A glance at recent fine jewellery auctions shows that branded vintage pieces from Cartier, Verdura, and Van Cleef & Arpels continue to command strong prices, along with larger, certified diamonds. These are not easily replaced and require an expert valuer to determine a proper replacement figure. Some brands such as Cartier and Tiffany increase their prices twice a year. On average the basic beautiful LOVE bangle from Cartier increases £300 every year.

New

Pragnalls Jewellers 1.51ct - £18,000	Pragnalls Jewellers 3.02ct - £74,650
Second Hand

Cartier yellow and white diamond cross over ring Wooley & Wallis auctioneers Estimate £4-6k Hammer £9.5k	Victorian antique cluster ring Harper Field Auctions Estimate £8,500 - £10,500, Hammer £28,500	1980's Cartier Panthere earrings $66,000 at Opulent Jewellers - USA

Additional Factors

Another important factor is the price of gold – the value of a 1 Troy Ounce of gold has increased 819% from 2000 – 2024, as displayed in this graph:

Pound / Dollar interest rates have fallen and retail margins have had to be pared back to compete with global and technological competition and wages for goldsmiths, polishers, cutters, apprentices, setters have in some cases tripled since 2000.

The Role of Professional Valuers

Valuing jewellery, like the value of a car, is a sum of its parts plus the brand, popularity, rarity and condition. One would not stop valuing cars because the price of steel had dipped. So too is the case for the valuation of diamond jewellery even when the markets are in flux.

Jewellery valuation is a specialised profession that does not always get the credit it deserves. It requires years, often decades, of expertise, and valuers do not typically shout about their knowledge.

But in a world flooded with misinformation and sensational headlines, their insight is more relevant than ever.

So, where do you get your information?

To arrange a jewellery valuation call us on 01883 722736 or [email protected]