Meet the Doerr Dallas Jewellery Department

Posted on April 13, 2021November 2, 2022 by Doerr Dallas Valuations

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As the team expands, we wanted to share how hugely proud we are of the unique breadth of industry experience, knowledge and impressive qualifications that our team have between them.
From James Lowe who has worked within the jewellery sector for an amazing 40+ years and is recognized as one of the most industry-respected Watch Specialists, to our amazing team of Gemmologists and NAJ Institute of Registered valuers, to our youngest and newly appointed jewellery specialist Aurelia Turrall who also speaks four languages!
They bring an eclectic mix of expertise in all areas, including modern, period and antique Jewellery. This allows us to not only send an industry-renowned Jewellery Specialist to clients, but further, we are able to provide an even more bespoke service by tailoring the valuer specifically to the items or collection to be valued.
We work throughout the UK and Europe, providing personal, professional, friendly and completely discreet valuations for Insurance, Inheritance Tax purposes, Divorce and Family Division and independent advice on buying and selling.
So, let’s meet them…

James Lowe – Silver, Jewellery and Watch Specialist

James has over 35 years’ experience in the industry and has worked for the Queen’s jewellers, The House of Garrard, London and enjoyed three years with Garrard in South Africa, buying and selling jewellery on behalf of their clients.
James is a qualified Fellow (FGA) and Diamond (DGA) member of The Gemmological Association of Great Britain.
James has also worked for both Bonhams and Sotheby’s in the Jewellery Departments but enjoys nothing more than working alongside Rachel which he has done since 2009!

Mary Waterfall – Jewellery Specialist

Mary Waterfall has over eighteen years’ experience in the jewellery trade, working in a variety of sectors. Having successfully completed her Gemmology Diploma, FGA, in 1999, Mary started her career in Hatton Garden working for the prestigious manufacturing company, Stephen Foster Jewellery and then for the diamond and gemstone dealer Bass Premier Company. She went on to obtain her Diamond Grading Diploma, DGA and gained valuable retail experience working for Tiffany & Co, Old Bond Street, London.
In 2003 Mary moved into the auction world, relocating to Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter and working as a specialist and cataloguer for Fellows, one of the leading auction houses in the West Midlands.
In 2014 Mary gained her qualification as a Registered Valuer and is proud to be a member of the NAJ’s Institute of Registered Valuers and The Gemmological Association of Great Britain.

Annabell Parry – Jewellery and Watches Specialist

Annabell has worked with international fine jewellery and watch brands for over 20 years. The daughter of an auctioneer and valuer, it was no surprise when she followed the family into the Jewellery industry after leaving University. Since 1995 she has worked with, amongst others, Boodles, Leo De Vroomen, Rolex, Patek Phillipe and Frank Muller where her work has revolved around certificated gemstones, high end watches, antique and handmade fine jewellery.
During those 25 years, she attained internationally recognised industry qualifications and affiliations and is a Registered Valuer with both valuing institutes of the United Kingdom. As an established specialist she enjoys finding forgotten gems and uncovering their family history.
MIRV – Member of the Institute of Registered Valuers / MJVA – Member of the Jewellery Valuers Association / Member of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain.
Professional Qualifications:

GA Cert – Gemmology Foundation from Gemmological Association of Great Britain (GEM-A)
PJ-Dip – Professional Jewellers’ Diploma from National Association of Jewellers (NAG)
CAT – Certificate of Appraisal Theory from National Institute of Registered Valuers (IRV)
CPAA – Certified Pearl Specialist with the Cultured Pearl Association of America (Pearls as One)

Jenny Knott – Silver & Jewellery Specialist

Jenny has been working in the Silver and Jewellery industry for over 35 years, she is a graduate of Reading University where she gained a BA Hons in English literature. She joined Bonham’s auctioneers in Knightsbridge as a post-graduate in the silver, jewellery and clocks and watches departments, specialising in silver and jewellery, Jenny soon rose to the position of deputy head of department.
Her career has seen her run Bonham’s highly successful Gentlemen’s sales alongside her passion for everything silver or that sparkles. Jenny also worked with the John Lewis Partnership for 25 years supplying them with antique jewellery for their retail sales. She also enjoyed working with Bloomingdales in the United States for many years, supplying cufflinks and gentlemen’s accessories. Both these roles involved training their staff.
During this time, she has been employed by The Royal Collection, lectured extensively in the UK (including lectures to NAFAS and the National Association of Jewellers) and in the States on her specialist areas. Jenny has also co-curated a cufflink exhibition with The Goldsmiths Company. She is highly experienced in insurance and probate work and continues alongside doing valuations supplying antiques, particularly wine related items, to the Rothschild Waddesdon Trust and National Trust.

Rebecca Bohle – Jewellery and Ceramics Valuer

Rebecca started her career over 25 years ago with Phillips Auctioneers in Edinburgh and Newcastle Upon Tyne where she rose to the position of Associate Director specialising in Ceramics and Glass before moving into the Jewellery department at Bonhams in Edinburgh.
With a passion for jewellery, Rebecca completed her certificate of gemmology and is a Member of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain. She has an accreditation of the De Beers Diamond Foundation Certificate.
Rebecca is adept at evaluating the authenticity, quality and value of both ceramics and jewellery and has catalogued a number of large private collections for both insurance, probate and sale.

Aurélia Turrall – Jewellery & Watches Specialist

Aurélia has over fifteen years’ experience in the auction industry. She started her career in Business Development and Client Services at Christie’s and Sotheby’s Paris. She went on to obtain her Graduate Gemmologist degree from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Relocating from Paris to London, Aurélia joined the Jewellery department at Bonhams, dealing with client valuations and auction preparations.
Aurélia has a Bachelor of Arts degree from King’s College London and a Baccalaureate in Economics and Literature. She speaks English, French being her native language, and some Spanish and Italian. Aurelia has also had experience of working with specialist lenders Borro and working for SYMEV (French Association of Auctioneers), Paris where she was Head of Communications.
Being able to value clients’ jewellery is what she loves to do and she has been privileged to value some amazing pieces.

Testimonials:-
I was asked to procure a jewellery valuation by my insurance company and my insurance broker recommended Doerr Dallas Valuations. Rachel called me to arrange a time for the valuation and explained the process very clearly. I asked for a quote and was pleasantly surprised as it was much lower than I had expected. When the valuer came, he was extremely diligent and efficient and I was very impressed with the valuation report when it arrived. Everything was photographed with detailed descriptions and I now realise that it is extremely important to have a proper record of what you own. I would highly recommend Doerr Dallas Valuations.
Nicola Horlick, CEO Money & Co., London
Rachel, we would like to say that your Jewellery specialist did a brilliant job and we want to thank her for her professionalism and dedication to get to the bottom of a few issues. Really great customer service.
Mr D. Nelson, Staffordshire
I wasn’t aware of the detail that your valuations would go into, my wife was so impressed. We did look up Annabell’s qualifications and experience etc and she certainly knows her subject. We didn’t realise how under valued/under-insured the jewellery was until we received your report. So thank you Rachel for looking after us.
Mr D. Boyle, Surrey
Jewellery valuations
We recommend a review of a jewellery insurance valuation at least every 3 years, due to price fluctuations in gold and diamonds. Also, some insurance policies have a clause requirement that clasps and settings require checking every 2-3 years. As part of our service we include a claps and a settings check. For collector watches we would suggest a desktop review annually to ensure prices are up to date.

Exploring the Bvlgari Jewellery Brand

Posted on March 29, 2021May 14, 2024 by Doerr Dallas Valuations

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Mary Waterfall, Jewellery Specialist

The luxury brand synonymous with style, power, boldness, vivacity and colour. As with most high end jewellers the story of Bvlgari is steeped in history.
It was founded in 1885 by Sotirios Boulgaris, a Greek Silversmith who relocated to Italy in 1881. He changed his name to Bulgari, which became Bvlgari in line with the classical Italian alphabet using a V in place of U.
Over the years the Bvlgari family have encapsulated the glamourous passionate Italian spirit in their jewellery design. They have produced magnificent pieces for royalty, the rich and the famous, truly embracing ‘The Dolce Vitta’
The Trombino ring is a classic example of this. Translated as ‘Little Trumpet’ the first was made in 1930 for Mrs Bvlgari. As you look at examples of this stunning ring you can almost hear a fanfare of trumpets serenading the central gem as it stands proud in a raised domed design complimented by pave set brilliant cut diamonds to the band and a line of graduated baguette cut diamonds. Both coloured gems and diamonds were used as the central stone, always of the finest quality and most spectacular colours. A real statement piece that has now become highly sought after and collectible at auction. One of the most famous examples being Elizabeth Taylor’s ‘Sugar Loaf’ sapphire and diamond Trombino ring which sold for $866,500 at auction in 2011.

I have not yet had the pleasure to appraise a Trombino ring, however one Bvlgari design I do regularly come across is the B.Zero1. This elegant, bold design is very accessible and has become one of Bvlgari’s most popular and successful collections. It was launched in 1999 and true to the company’s Italian heritage it was inspired by the architecture of Rome’s Colosseum. The ring is designed as a flat core band composed of one to five spiral lines that are sandwiched between two flat rings engraved with the brands logo. It is made using the Tubogas technique, which creates flexible bands without the use of solder. It is a stylish, simple comfortable collection that has been adapted over the years to create variety, incorporating different metals, ceramics and gemstones.

The B stands for Bulgari and the Zero1 marks it as the first design of the second millennium. The collection also includes pendants, bangles and earrings and it continues to thrive and evolve. The latest evolution is the Bzero1 Rock which is described by the company as an ‘unapologetic rulebreaker’ with its studded core.

The continued strength and popularity of the collection means prices continue to rise. The current price for a ring purchased in 2005 would be significantly higher that the price originally paid. Is this reflected in your current valuations? An example is this Bzero1 18ct white gold four band ring, pave set with diamonds which currently retails for £9,800. Is this value reflected in your insurance documentation?

£5k spend – Jewellery Investment Mission

Posted on March 23, 2021May 14, 2024 by Doerr Dallas Valuations

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Mary Waterfall, Jewellery Specialist

The Brief: My Great Aunt Winnie has kindly gifted me £5K in her will. However she has also specified that I must spend it on something within my field of expertise, something that I believe will increase in value over the next five to ten years.
The Options:
1) Gold
My immediate thought is that I would invest it in gold. The gold price does fluctuate but over a long period of time it usually increases. As I write this, in the final months of 2020, the gold price is quite high. One of the reasons for this is because of the uncertainty in the stock market due to the COVID 19 pandemic, traditionally when share prices go down, the gold price goes up. My plan would therefore be to wait until the markets stabilise, which could take a year or two, to ensure I’m not buying gold at a price peak time. I would then go to auction and buy gold in the form of Sovereigns, chains etc., put it all in a safe for five to ten years, keep an eye on the markets and look for an opportune time to sell and hopefully profit on the investment. I wouldn’t sell at auction though because I would have to pay commission for the privilege. I would go to a jewellers/dealers who buys gold. Then tend to give you a better price per gram the greater quantity you have.
However, that all sounds very good but I wouldn’t get much enjoyment out of that experience. I don’t really wear plain gold jewellery so it would just be locked away and not looked at. Wouldn’t my Great Aunt Winnie prefer me to buy something I would actually wear and love? So my next thought is:
2) Vintage Designer Jewellery
Historically the vintage jewellery of certain brands, such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, can hold and increase in value. Pieces made in the early to mid-twentieth century can be very desirable and sought after. Clearly it’s a piece by piece case and does not apply to all jewellery made at this time. The ‘rule’ doesn’t necessarily apply to more modern designer jewellery such as the Cartier Love bangle. If you do an auction house online search for these bangles you will see many examples come up. The market is pretty flooded with them at the moment and some of them are the amazingly impressive fakes that are coming out of Dubai, some of which are hard to tell from a genuine bangle if you don’t know what you are looking for.

Fake Cartier Love Bangle

There is also a bit of a myth that if the jewellery is ‘old’ it will naturally increase in value. Again it depends on the piece but generally this is not the case. I was recently asked to value a diamond bangle that had been marketed as ‘Georgian’ and ‘very rare’. However in reality it was a modern piece manufactured in India and was not as valuable as originally thought.
So I know I need to have my wits about me if purchasing at auction. Another question is will I actually find such a piece that is £5k or under because such items can command high prices.
There are a lot of beautiful brooches out there, which were highly fashionable at the time but not so nowadays. I may be tempted by something like these earrings.

Cartier earrings c1970

They are by Cartier, circa 1970 and sold for £3800 plus buyers premium. They are beautifully made, signed and numbered by Cartier and I would wear and enjoy them. However I may also be tempted to extend my search and try and find something within my price range that was made by Cartier slightly earlier.
Conclusion
I think there is more certainty of a profit in strategy one but more fun and enjoyment in strategy two. Which would you choose?

An unusual item I have valued

Posted on February 23, 2021May 14, 2024 by Doerr Dallas Valuations

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Mary Waterfall, Jewellery Specialist

An Unusual and Memorable Valuation
One of the most exciting facets of my profession is that I never know what I am going to see. When I embark on a valuation I usually have a list of the items I am going to appraise, such as: five gem set rings, three diamond necklaces, six bracelets etc… However those three necklaces could include anything from a dramatic 19^th century two row festoon, to a delicate Art Nouveau floriate pendant or a dazzling modern diamond single stone collet.
On this particular valuation day there were a number of brooches on the list. Brooches have unfortunately fallen from fashion these days and are not worn as much as they were last century. Therefore many of these beautiful jewellery examples are locked away in safes, or kept concealed in bedside cabinets and only get to see the light of day when being appraised by the likes of me. I actually feel quite privileged to get to see them and hear the owner speak of their history and the long forgotten memories that their reappearance suddenly trigger.

Mauboussin, shrimp brooch

One of the most striking pieces I have seen of late was rather unusual, a rose quartz and diamond brooch crafted in the form of a shrimp. The beautifully carved rose quartz panel curved to form the body and connected to the golden head with dancing tentacles, brilliant cut diamond eyes and textured detail. With gold overlaying the body to form the ‘legs’ and terminating at the skilfully scalloped tail. It spanned 11cms to give you an idea of size, so certainly would not be missed when worn to adorn a lapel or dress top. I can imagine it would be a real conversation starter at many a soiree.

Mauboussin, shrimp brooch, side view

The makers mark on the brooch was Mauboussin, a French jewellery company who are famous for their Art Deco and Retro pieces. The company dates back to 1827, but it started gaining international recognition and acclaim in the 1920’s. It is definitely a brand to look out for, especially at auction and antique shops because, as with many of the great designers, the older pieces tend to be so flamboyant, interesting and unique, compared to the more modern, especially from the Deco and Retro era.
The Mauboussin brand remains strong, with boutiques all over the world. Although it doesn’t have a shop in the UK, it would definitely be a store to explore when we are able to travel and go on foreign adventures again.
The second hand replacement value of this shrimp brooch is £6600 and the memory of this valuation will live with me for a long time.

New Appointment. Annabell Parry, Jewellery and Watches Specialist in our Birmingham Office

Posted on January 21, 2021November 2, 2022 by Doerr Dallas Valuations

We are delighted to announce that Annabell Parry has joined the team at Doerr Dallas Valuations. Annabell joins us as Jewellery & Watches specialist covering the North of England and The Midlands, and will also be undertaking valuations in our Birmingham office.
Annabell has worked with international fine jewellery and watch brands for over 20 years. The daughter of an auctioneer and valuer, it was no surprise when she followed the family into the Jewellery industry after leaving University. Since 1995 she has worked with, amongst others, Boodles, Leo De Vroomen, Rolex, Patek Phillipe and Frank Muller where her work has revolved around certificated gemstones, high end watches, antique and handmade fine jewellery.
During those 25 years, she attained internationally recognised industry qualifications and affiliations and is a Registered Valuer with both valuing institutes of the United Kingdom. As an established specialist she enjoys finding forgotten gems and uncovering their family history.
MIRV – Member of the Institute of Registered Valuers / MJVA – Member of the Jewellery Valuers Association / Member of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain.
Professional Qualifications:

GA Cert – Gemmology Foundation from Gemmological Association of Great Britain (GEM-A)
PJ-Dip – Professional Jewellers’ Diploma from National Association of Jewellers (NAG)
CAT – Certificate of Appraisal Theory from National Institute of Registered Valuers (IRV)
CPAA – Certified Pearl Specialist with the Cultured Pearl Association of America (Pearls as One)

What our clients are saying already:

Mr D. Nelson – I just would like to say that your colleague Annabell did a brilliant job and we did thank her for her professionalism and dedication to get to the bottom of a few issues. Really great customer service she was brilliant please pass on our thanks.
Mr D. Boyle – I wasn’t aware of the detail that Annabell went into, my wife was so impressed. We did look up Annabell’s qualifications and experience etc and she certainly knows her subject. We didn’t realise how under valued/under-insured the jewellery was until we received your report. So thank you Rachel for looking after us.

Jewellery valuations

We recommend a review of a jewellery insurance valuation at least every 3 years, due to price fluctuations in gold and diamonds. Also, some insurance policies have a clause requirement that clasps and settings require checking every 2-3 years. As part of our service we include a clasps and a settings check. For collector watches we would suggest a desktop review annually to ensure prices are up to date.

New Appointment – Annabell Parry, Jewellery and Watches Specialist in our Birmingham Office

Posted on January 19, 2021November 2, 2022 by Doerr Dallas Valuations

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GA Cert – Gemmology Foundation from Gemmological Association of Great Britain (GEM-A)
PJ-Dip – Professional Jewellers’ Diploma from National Association of Jewellers (NAG)
CAT – Certificate of Appraisal Theory from National Institute of Registered Valuers (IRV)
CPAA – Certified Pearl Specialist with the Cultured Pearl Association of America (Pearls as One)

What our clients are saying already:

Jewellery valuations

My favourite item that I have valued

Posted on November 24, 2020October 18, 2024 by Mary Waterfall

I feel very blessed to be a jewellery valuer because I get to see and examine some stunning pieces of jewellery. It’s actually quite hard to single out just one item as a favourite. I love more vintage pieces such as tiaras, gem set cocktail watches and anything from the Art Deco era. As I hold them I love to imagine who has worn them and how many amazing parties they have been to. My mind always wanders to the movie Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Holly Golightly dressed to the nines and going to countless ‘soirees’. I recently valued a beautiful old cut diamond festoon necklace and the owner sighed and said to her husband: ‘well darling I doubt I will be wearing it at any more balls at Buckingham Palace anytime soon……’
However if pressed to choose one particular item as a favourite it would have to be something set with sapphire. Sapphires are my all-time favourite gemstones, so much so that when I worked in the auction world and on the TV show Dickinsons Real Deal, I had to be really careful not to overestimate sapphire set pieces and give the clients over inflated expectations because I loved the gemstones!

Single sapphire ring. Valued for insurance at £30,950 NRV (New Retail Value)

I recently valued a single stone ring. It was set with a Ceylon sapphire weighing 13.73cts, measuring 12.4mm by 12.1mm. The stone came with a certificate stating there was no evidence of heat treatment, something which is becoming increasingly rare because nowadays most coloured gems undergo some form of treatment to enhance their colour. As I gazed into the gem with my 10X loupe I could see a multitude of natural inclusions. Inclusions are what I most love about gemmology. I just think it’s incredible that these beautiful gems have been formed in the earth over thousands of years, each is unique and each tells its own story through the inclusions that lie within. Examining them is like diving into another world and this particular gemstone was a real feast for the eyes, a gemmologist’s delight! I could have looked at it for hours and would have loved to have put it under a microscope. However I had to settle for a quick fix because as valuers we work under time constraints and don’t really have the luxury to truly enjoy and appreciate such magnificent pieces when they arise.

Typical sapphire inclusions

To the layperson the ring may look rather heavy and clunky. It’s set in platinum and weighs 21 grams. On the surface the sapphire facet edges are slightly rubbed. However for me, because of the magical world contained within, it was a real highlight and my favourite piece I have valued.

Diamonds and Coloured Gems… words of advice from our Jewellery specialist

Posted on October 14, 2020August 22, 2024 by James Lowe

At Doerr Valuations our team of jewellery specialists monitor prices and trends in the international market to make sure that you can be properly informed and looked after.
The jewellery market over the past few years has been unusually volatile for several reasons – some directly due to the general ‘woes of the world’ and some caused by some quite dramatic fluctuations in commodity, material and gem prices.

In 2007, the price per ounce of gold was around the $750 mark – it peaked late in 2012 at $1,890 – and fell back to just over $1,000 in 2014 although it’s edging up to the $1,910/oz mark today.
However, in pieces of gem set jewellery the gold value factor is not huge – the gem prices, manufacturing costs and retail profits are larger factors.

Diamonds, despite what De Beers say in their advertisements, are not rare. Huge deposits of good quality stones are regularly being found in mid-Africa and now Botswana has pretty well become the diamond centre of the world, with De Beers moving their headquarters there from London.

Mining techniques are better and more efficient, so there are more than enough stones to go around. Slackening demand from the Middle and Far East for many of the slightly lower grade stones and sizes have seen noticeable drops in market prices. De Beers and their fellow core suppliers have had to do a lot of juggling and adjustment to try and keep things on an even keel.
However, if the stone is exceptional in all of the three main quality criteria i.e. size, colour and clarity, it will still be very expensive. The trade price of a one carat flawless D colour (the best) stone, is well over twice the price of a one carat H colour and VVS2 clarity (both acceptable commercial qualities) stone.

There have been some exceptional auction prices in 2017 for coloured diamonds, specifically for pink and blue stones… Sotheby’s set a new world record in 4 April 2017 in Hong Kong, when the Pink Star, a 59.60-carat oval mixed-cut Fancy Vivid Pink internally flawless diamond, sold for HK$553 million / US$71.2 million (£57.3 million) including buyer’s premium.

Other spikes in the market include the pearl market, specifically the natural saltwater pearl market. Cultured pearls are natural beads ‘farmed’ in seawater by introducing man made beads in to the soft tissue of an oyster. The oyster’s reaction to these ‘irritations’ is to cover them in ‘nacre’, which is the lustrous shell like covering that we see on the pearl necklaces in most shops. The beads can be 4 or 5 mm in diameter so the thickness of the nacre coating can be pretty thin and lacking in lustre depth. In a natural seawater pearl the oyster takes in the occasional tiny grain of sand around which it builds up the layers of nacre, so in an 8 mm diameter natural pearl you may have 7 mm depth of nacre rather than 3 or 4 mm in a cultured pearl. If you put one of each of these pearls together the wonderful depth of lustre of the natural pearl is very apparent.

Again a laboratory certificate and an up to date valuation is a must. But the main problem for the pearl market is the arrival of freshwater pearls from China. These are farmed in rivers and lakes and not in oysters but in mussels. A mussel can produce more pearls, more often, but they can be of poor lustre and are prone to being misshapen. They are however very cheap and can be seen up to 15 mm in diameter.

Whilst auction prices for fairly modern ‘ordinary’ jewellery can very modest indeed – and a small fraction of its retail replacement price – the market for ‘big name’ pieces with good style and quality is as strong as ever. Cartier, early Tiffany, Boucheron, Bulgari, Buccellati, and Lalique all sell strongly. From the previous century there is a strong collectors’ market for work by Castellani and Giuliano and anything with an interesting historical or royal background will generally fare well.

You may find that the values may have stayed the same, but it is always worth confirming this and as part of Doerr Valuations service we can easily check this for you.

So, with the price of gold, diamonds and jewellery continually changing, seeking professional advice and having your jewellery reviewed annually is extremely important.

Call us today to enquire about an appointment on 01883 722736 or email [email protected] or visit our website www.doerrvaluations.co.uk

Caring For Your Jewellery

Posted on October 9, 2020August 22, 2024 by Mary Waterfall

The way people approach jewellery care can be very diverse. Some people constantly wear their jewellery and don’t even think to remove their diamond rings when gardening or kneading dough to make bread. Other people take their rings off all the time – to wash their hands, do the washing up etc, often with husbands shouting in the background ‘Where have you left them this time!!’
In my opinion, jewellery should be worn and enjoyed. It should be a source of pleasure and not locked away in a box or safe all the time for fear it may get dirty or damaged. I often get asked about the best way to clean jewellery, so I have included some advice and other tips in this article in the hope that somebody finds it useful.

Image of commercial jewellery cleaning solution

Jewellery cleaning bath

I usually advise people to soak their jewellery in warm soapy water and then give it a scrub over with a soft toothbrush. You can buy jewellery cleaner at most jewellers which is just as effective. Some people swear by soaking it in gin! I have to say I have not tried that one and can think of better things to do with a glass of gin!

It’s amazing how much dirt is attracted to the surface of diamonds and gems. Earrings that are constantly worn can collect a build-up of ‘ear cheese’ to the reverse, which will also have an impact on the way light interacts with the gemstones and consequently with their brilliance and sparkle. In these incidences a cocktail stick is useful in addition to the soapy water. I often have to clean jewellery in order to be able to grade and assess the quality of the gemstones. My clients are usually delighted at the renewed sparkle it brings.

Ear Cheese!

Ultrasonic cleaners use sound waves to break down the dirt that accumulates on the surface of jewellery. However, it is not safe to put all gem stones in them. Softer, more delicate stones can be damaged by the heat and vibrations of an ultrasonic. These include emerald, opal, tanzanite, lapis, amber and other organic stones. Gemstones that have been treated to enhance their colour and clarity can also be damaged by an ultrasonic.
Pearls are very soft and delicate and may partially dissolve if cleaned with an ultrasonic. It is best to wipe pearls with a soft cloth and never use alcohol or chemicals on them. It is worth remembering to spray perfume before you put on your pearl necklace, rather than spraying the perfume on the pearls.

Do ‘the tap test’ at least once a month

Another important thing to check on a regular basis is that the gemstones are secure in their settings. I have recently heard quite a few horror stories of how significant sized diamonds have fallen out and been lost. I recommend people do ‘the tap test’ at least once a month. All you do is hold the piece of jewellery securely, close to your ear and lightly tap on it. If you can hear any rattling the stones are probably loose in their setting and in need of attention. It’s also a good practice to check the fittings on necklaces and bracelets are secure as it may have implications on your insurance cover if they are not. At Doerr Dallas Valuations these checks form part of our valuation procedure.

Chopard

Posted on August 7, 2020August 21, 2024 by Mary Waterfall

Chopard has recently stepped into the spotlight as the official sponsors of the latest James Bond movie ‘No Time To Die’. Caroline Scheufele, the Artistic Director and Co President of the much loved brand, has designed a collection that embodies her vision of the modern ‘Bond girl’ and represents courage and determination. It is called The Happy Hearts Golden Hearts Collection and it is a limited edition of 7007 pieces. She has taken the classic ‘Happy Hearts’ and filled some of the usually openwork hearts with ethically mined rose gold, as well as adding the famous 007 logo.

In 1860 Louis Ulysse Chopard founded the luxury brand in Switzerland. He was a watch maker and gained a strong reputation with his innovative designs which took him overseas to such places as the court of Tsar Nicholas II in Russia. The company continued to thrive as it was passed down through the Chopard generations to Paul Louis and onto Paul Andre. However after the war the company met with challenging times, coupled with the fact that there was little interest from the next generation to continue the family business. Hence in 1963 Paul Andre sold the faltering brand to the Scheufele family, jewellers and watchmakers in Germany. Following on the tradition, they too have passed the company through the family generations, strengthening the brand and building the mighty Chopard empire that we know today. The current Company Presidents Caroline and Karl Fiedrich are a brother and sister team. Caroline has had a massive influence in developing the ladies collections, in particular their high end jewellery. While her brother has developed the gentlemen’s collections and the Chopard sports watches.

One of Caroline’s visions was to create gemstone masterpieces but without sight of the settings. She and her team created the magnificent ‘Magical Setting Collection’ which enhances the gems interaction with light, producing a magnificent sparkle because of the innovative setting technique

‘Happy Diamonds’ are perhaps the most famous Chopard collection. The free moving diamond collets dance freely within their transparent surround, symbolising freedom and a real ‘joie de vivre’. Their strapline being ‘little diamonds do great things’.

The Chopard brand is certainly doing ‘great things’ when it comes to ethical and responsible business practices. In 2013 they launched ‘The Journey to Sustainable Luxury’ which prioritises responsible sourcing of raw materials, environmental management and investment in people and local communities. The James Bond Collection is made using sustainably mined materials. The gold is mined by small scale operations that guarantee that the gold is extracted in an environmentally and ethically responsible way.
The necklace pictured above currently retails at £6,520. As with all luxury jewellery brands the prices continue to rise. When was the last time your jewellery was professionally appraised? Is your insurance cover adequate in the event of a claim?