Category Archives: Jewellery

The Evolution and History of Diamond Cutting

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Believed to be a gift from God, diamonds were first discovered in India in the 4th Century BC and were recognised for their hardness and strength. They were worn as adornments to ward off evil and provide protection in battle. Diamonds were also used as a medical aid; thought to cure illness and heal wounds when ingested. This was later dismissed, and it was thought that diamonds were highly poisonous; a rumour introduced to stop miners stealing diamonds by swallowing them.

Up until the 18th Century the only known source for diamonds was in India and their value was still considered much less than sapphires and rubies.

Alexander the Great opened a small trade between the East and the West in the mid-4th Century but it wasn’t until much later in the 14th and 15th century when diamonds entered Europe through Venice. They made their way north to Bruges, Antwerp and Amsterdam making these cities bustling diamond centres. It was at this point that European and Indian cutters begin to experiment with diamond cutting.

Point Cut Diamond

The earliest diamond cut is the point cut and was popular in the 15th Century. Cutters used diamond grit and olive oil to simply polish stones in their natural octahedral form. Olive oil was used due to its ability to tolerate the high temperatures caused by polishing.

Below is a diamond crystal in its natural octahedral form and a diamond ring set with multiple polished point cut diamonds.

Point cut diamonds are very rare as many of the original diamonds were re-fashioned as cutting techniques and styles changed. Here is an example of point cut diamond selling at auction for £11,000, well exceeding its pre-sale estimate of £1,800 – £2,400.

The Table Cut

In the mid-15th Century cutters designed the table cut diamond, they used the same polishing methods and simply removed the top point of the octahedral shape to produce a table.

This style of cutting possessed far better optical qualities than its predecessor, with greater brilliance and fire. It also displayed, when viewed from above, the impression of a table within a table, which fitted perfectly with Renaissance Europe’s love of classical proportions. The table cut became far more desirable than the point cut, which is why it is now rare to see examples of the point cut diamond as most were re-fashioned into the table cut.

Throughout the 16th and 17th century, variations of the table cut shape such as rectangles, triangles and tapered diamonds appeared.

Here are some more examples of diamonds with a table cut selling through auction.

The Rose Cut

The early 16th century saw the birth of the rose cut diamond. This made use of the flat rough instead of the octahedral crystal that we have seen so far. It proved the most efficient way to retain the weight of a flat crystal. The flat bottom and faceted domed top proved much more effective at displaying brilliance but not fire.

The Mazarin Cut

After developing and perfecting table and rose cuts, European cutters started to experiment with new cuts and styles. Cardinal Jules Mazarin requested that cutters in Europe designed a faceted diamond. The result was a cushion shaped diamond with 34 facets called the Mazarin cut, also known as the double cut.

The Old Single Cut

The mid-17th century saw the introduction of the single cuts. Like the point and table cut, the single cut resembled the shape of the octahedral rough. It also displayed more potential for brilliance than the table cut because it had more facets. This cut served as the basis for the modern brilliant cut and even today, the single cut is still used on smaller diamonds.

In the early 17th Century, the mines in India were running low on diamond source and European cutters needed more stones to continue experimenting with cuts. Luckily at this time, while miners were panning for gold in Minas Gerais, Brazil, a few odd crystals, and pebbles were found. Not knowing what they had discovered the miners used these stones to keep score during games of cards. It wasn’t until an official saw them that they realised that in fact it was a new diamond source.

The discovery of alluvial deposits in Brazil meant great things for the cutters in Europe. The diamonds rivalled those of India, and Brazil became the main source of diamonds for Europe.

At this time, Europe had a great desire to experiment and evolve the diamond cut, and there was an increasing interest in optical science. With the aid of advanced lighting and the modernisation of technologies, the developments of the first modern brilliant cuts could start to take place.

The Peruzzi Cut

The new rough from Brazil was used to create the first old mine cut also known as the Peruzzi Cut; this has the same number of facets as the round brilliant, but with a high pavilion it resembles a cushion shape. In 1750, a London jeweller called the new style of cut a passing fad and said the classic rose cut would outlast them all.

Today, antique cushion cut diamonds remain extremely popular and sell very well. Here are some examples – notice how almost all exceed their pre-sale estimates.

The round brilliant cut diamond

Years of experimentation with cutting led to the production of the modern brilliant. We can see examples of the modern brilliant cut being traced to the 1800’s. Henry Morse had been trying to achieve the optically efficient cutting design. It was however Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919 who published his PhD thesis called Diamond Design. This used mathematical calculations that considered how to display both brilliance and fire in a diamond. Tolkowsky understood that if a diamond was cut too shallow or too deep that the light entering the stone would leak out of the side; this discovery was achieved by systematically analysing the optics of a diamond. Although this was revolutionary for its time, there have been other claims on the perfectly proportioned diamond. In 1940, Eppler produced the European Cut and later in 1970 The IDC (International Diamond Council) also produced a set of ideal ranges.

Compared Results

These differing proportions are all aiming to show the viewer the perfect amount of brilliance and fire. Brilliance is the reflection of light from the back facets when viewed from the top of the stone. Fire is the splitting of white light into the spectral colours as the light passes through inclined facets.

Altering the angle of the crown will affect the balance of brilliance and fire.

Fancy Cuts

In more recent times we have seen variations of the round modern brilliant cut diamond. Cutters have applied the same perfected proportions displaying great amounts of fire and brilliance and applied them to the Pear and Marquise cuts. The Pear and Marquise cuts have been around for centuries but never before displayed the optimum optical properties. Furthermore, this led to the production of more fancy shapes in the brilliant cut; heart cut and princess cuts are now examples of this. Triangular diamonds cut in this way were even named the Trillion cut.

With many attributing factors that have been considered in the cutting of diamond throughout its evolution; from a polished octahedral crystal through to the brilliant cut diamond displaying fire and brilliance, I wonder what the next seven centuries will bring. Will our future generations look back and consider the brilliant cut diamond a primitive design compared to what this stone, advanced technologies and creative cutters achieve in the future?

 

Rubies

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Ruby is the birthstone for July

The name comes from the Latin ‘ruber’ meaning red. It is seen as a symbol of love and commitment. In Asia particularly, it is associated with luck, passion and power.

Burmese warriors had rubies set into their armour, as they believed they would offer them protection in battle. Some even had rubies embedded in their flesh for added security.

Rubies, like sapphires, are a form of corundum – the name for aluminium oxide. Unlike sapphires, which come in an array of colours, rubies are always red, and the colour derives from chromium in their chemical make-up. Shades vary from the ultra desirable, but challengingly named, pigeon’s blood ruby to much pinker varieties.

Historically, the most sought after rubies came from Burma (now Myanmar). However, nowadays Mozambique has become one of the largest suppliers of new rubies into the market.

After diamonds, rubies are the hardest of all gemstones and also the most expensive coloured gemstone.

Until recently, ‘The Sunrise Ruby’, which formed the centrepiece of a sensational ruby and diamond ring by Cartier, was the most expensive ruby in the world and the most expensive coloured stone. However, on 8th June 2023 Sotheby’s sold the world’s largest Mozambiquan ruby, which weighs 55.22 carats. It made a world record-breaking $34.8 million, thus becoming the largest and most valuable ruby ever to sell at auction.

The ruby and diamond necklace worn by Julia Roberts in the film Pretty Woman, was said to be worth about $750,000 shortly after the movie was made 30 years ago. The price of rubies has soared since then. Imagine what it might be worth today.

The Princess of Wales jewellery trooping the colour

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What a year it has been for the Royal family and ceremonial events and on the 17th June, they did it again, for the King’s birthday, also known as Trooping the Colour. The Princess of Wales was as regal as ever, and her outfit full of meaning – as they usually are.

When I first glanced at her stylish green outfit, my first thought was how reminiscent of the late Queen it was.

But when looking closer at the jewellery, the true meaning of the green came to light. Earlier in the year The Princess of Wales took over the role from her husband as the 11th Colonel of the Irish Guards. Her outfit designed by the fashion designer Andrew GN is called “emerald green triple crème coat dress with satin trim” and retails for £2,839 and is a deliberate choice of colour on this very special occasion.

It is completed by handcrafted jewelled buttons which appear to be a mix of turquoise, chalcedony or chrysoprase, and echoes the British flag design.

The jewelled button was also carefully placed on the back of the wide trimmed hat, by Philip Treacy.

The coat dress was paired with her signature shamrock brooch which she has been seen wearing on St Patrick’s day.

The brooch of textured design, features a single emerald to the centre. It was crafted by Cartier and then presented to Princess Mary, the Princess Royal, by the regiment in 1961. Though others state that the piece may have belonged to Queen Alexandra first. When Princess Mary died, the brooch was sold at auction and bought by the regiment and it was worn by the Queen Mother until her death in 2002, followed by Princess Anne between 2002 and 2011, and is on these occasions, loaned by the regiment.

In 2014, a similar four-leaf clover brooch came up for auction, the brooch made in 1957 by Cartier sold for £2,000 (including buyer’s premium). Today, I would place an insurance replacement value of £10,000 on this brooch.

To complete the look, the Princess of Wales wore Princess Diana’s sapphire and diamond cluster earrings.

The earrings feature two cabochon sapphires within a diamond surround, each cluster connected by a single diamond. The earrings are said to be part of a suite gifted to Princess Diana for her wedding by the Crown Prince of Saudi Arabia. The suite comprises of Burmese sapphire and diamond pendant with matching earrings, a ring, bracelet, and a watch.

The author of The Queen’s Jewels, Leslie Field described the Saudi set as, “Made by Asprey, it consists of an enormous Burmese sapphire pendant set in a jagged sunray fringe of baguette diamonds and hung on a thin diamond necklace; a matching pair of earrings and ring; a two-row bracelet of brilliant-cut diamonds with a smaller version of the sapphire pendant as a centrepiece; and a wristwatch, the face set in the same diamond sunray fringe and the strap consisting of seven oval sapphires set in clusters of diamonds.”

In 2007, Sotheby’s sold a similar sapphire and diamond cluster ring, comprised of a 3.52cts Burmese sapphire within a diamond surround, totalling 5.50cts. It sold for USD 12,000 (including buyer’s premium). Today, I would place an insurance replacement value of at least £50,000 for this piece.

For every event, The Princess of Wales carefully curates and matches her outfits including jewellery with the attention to detail simply impeccable.

Look at for her next time and spot the details within her dress and jewellery.

As jewellery replacement values continue to increase, please can we remind you to update your insurance valuations and if you have never had a valuation please call us to discuss.

How to care for your Jewellery

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When discussing cleaning and caring for one’s jewellery, we often forget that metals need TLC and can also be damaged by everyday products and may result in discolouration. Gold, silver and platinum can all be affected by chemicals such as perfumes, hair spray and cosmetics. The discolouration results in the alloy (other metals mixed with gold, silver or platinum) being affected by the chemicals, the gold itself remains intact.

Why has my bracelet turned green?

This is due to the copper used as an alloy with the gold, it does not mean your jewellery is fake gold simply that it has been exposed to chemicals and perhaps even sweat.

Other very sensitive components of jewellery affected by chemicals are pearls. Pearls are porous and will absorb whatever they are in contact with.

Cosmetics will damage your pearls permanently. Over time they can also lose their moisture and result in cracking and discolouration. One can place a wet cotton next to pearls to help with moisture and should always avoid swimming in a chlorinated pool with pearls. Other porous gems include turquoise and opal which also need to be treated with extra attention.

Discolouration does not always happen as a result from exposure to chemicals. Just as old paintings are shunned from sunlight and kept at a cool temperature, certain gemstones should also be kept in the dark and in a controlled temperature environment to avoid fading. These gems include amethyst, topaz, shell cameos and kunzite.

So how should I clean my jewellery?

The use of ultrasonic cleaners can be an answer. However, this should only be used when advised to do so by an industry professional.

Ultrasonic cleaners generate tiny vibrations which loosens dirt on and around gems. In some cases these vibrations can damage gemstones, for example those with surface reaching fractures and which have been filled with oils, resin or substance filler. Pearls and other organic gems such as amber, coral and ivory should not be placed in the ultrasonic.

The ultrasonic is a great way to clean diamonds, which attracts the most dirt and grease out of all the gems (please seek professional advice before using this equipment), and after a few minutes in the machine, it is like getting a brand new piece of jewellery.

If I can’t use the ultrasonic, what are the safest ways to clean jewellery?

The oldest tricks can sometimes really be the best ones. Two simple ingredients are needed to clean most gems: washing up liquid (no detergent) and warm water. Dipping your jewellery in this mixture and letting it sit for a while will soften the accumulated dirt and allow it to fall off. One can also use a soft bristle toothbrush to remove the remaining dirt. Make sure you then rinse the soap off the jewellery.

The toothbrush should not be used on pearls as this can scratch the delicate surface (the nacre) of the pearl. Instead one can use a make up brush and use the same ingredients of soapy warm water to clean any dirt. Simply air dry your strand of pearl on a clean soft piece of fabric, whilst avoiding touching the string and dirtying it. If you notice your string is dirty and brittle, make sure to have it restrung regularly to avoid any disaster.

How should one store their jewellery?

As we mentioned, pearls, opals, coral, turquoise and shell should not be kept in a dry or hot environment. Silver should be placed in anti-tarnish pouches and should never be in contact with rubber bands.

I always recommend separating gem-set jewellery from each other as they can scratch each other’s surfaces. This also applies when travelling. Throwing all of one’s jewellery in the same pouch is asking for trouble! Small individual plastic zip pouches are ideal and jewellery boxes are perfect to make sure your jewellery is kept out of harm’s way.

It can get overwhelming when trying to remember how to care for everything in one’s possession. In simple words I would advise to wear and enjoy your jewellery as much as possible and it should bring you more joy than fear of damaging it! So, if worry takes over enjoyment, it might be time to get your jewellery appraised and perhaps even sell for someone else to cherish.

The Crown Jewels for the Coronation

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On May 6th King Charles III will be crowned in Westminster Abbey. A tradition dating back nearly 1000 years since William the Conqueror who was crowned in 1066. Charles’s will be the 38th coronation in the Abbey, most, like Charles’s, having been conducted by the incumbent Archbishop of Canterbury.

We are expecting a simpler and more paired back coronation for King Charles, but this does not mean that it is going to be light on tradition and ceremony. This historic event will still be an occasion for spectacle and celebration.

It is a ceremony that has remained essentially the same for a thousand years and the Coronation Regalia are at the heart of proceedings, imbued as they are with cultural and spiritual significance. They represent the powers and responsibilities of the new King and the solemnity of the occasion.

The last time we saw some of the regalia of the coronation was on the late Queen’s coffin, which was adorned with the crown, orb and sceptre.

These three items will play an integral role at the heart of the coronation service, but they are not the only pieces that we will see on the day.

St Edward’s Crown is the crown historically used at the moment of coronation and worn by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth at her coronation in 1953.

It was made for Charles II in 1661, as a replacement for the medieval crown which had been melted down in 1649 by Parliamentarians. Charles will wear this crown. The crown is 22 carat gold, so almost pure gold. It stands 30 cm tall and weighs an impressive 5lb. It contains tourmalines, white and yellow topaz, rubies, amethysts, sapphires, garnets, peridot, zircons, spinel and aquamarines. The three superstar gems in the crown are the Black Prince’s ruby, the Stuart sapphire and the Cullinan II diamond. No wonder Queen Elizabeth used to practise wearing it before the coronation, so its weight was not overwhelming on the day.

Camilla, the Queen Consort, will wear the Queen Mary’s Crown. This was removed from display at the Tower of London for modification work ahead of the coronation. It is the first time in recent history that an existing crown will be used for the coronation of a Consort. For previous coronations a new crown was commissioned. However, as a concession to the prevailing economic climate; sustainability and efficacy this crown, originally made by Garrards for the 1911 coronation, is being repurposed. Some minor changes and additions will be undertaken by the Crown Jeweller. These changes will pay particular tribute to the late Queen Elizabeth, as the Crown will be reset with the Cullinan III, IV and V diamonds. These diamonds were part of Queen Elizabeth II’s personal jewellery collection for many years and were often worn mounted in brooches.

At the heart of the ceremony itself are the sceptre, orb and the coronation anointing spoon. The Sovereign’s Sceptre and Cross symbolises the crown’s power and governance. It has been used at the coronation of every monarch since 1661. It was first used by King Henry VIII in 1509 for his own coronation. It is a golden rod, enamelled and set with multiple gemstones, the best known of which is the Cullinan I, or Star of Africa, a heart-shaped diamond weighing a colossal 530.2 carats.

In the photograph of Queen Elizabeth’s coronation you will see a second sceptre. This is the Sovereign’s sceptre with Dove. It is also known as the rod of Equity and Mercy and depicts an enamel dove wings outstretched alighting on the golden orb and cross. It represents the monarch’s spiritual role as head of the Church of England.

The most ancient piece of the coronation regalia is the coronation anointing spoon. The monarch is anointed with holy oil. The Chrism oil which will be used on May 6th has already been consecrated in Jerusalem. The oil itself comes from olives grown on the Mount of Olives and has been infused with sesame, rose, jasmine and other essential oils.

The spoon is silver gilt. Its existence was first recorded in 1349, but it may be even older. It is ornate with a central division and has been used to anoint monarchs for nearly seven hundred years. The central division may have been so that the archbishop might dip two fingers into the holy oil as he anoints the head, breast and hand of the new monarch.

It is traditional that the choir sings ‘Zadok the Priest’ during this sacred part of the ceremony; music originally composed by Handel for the coronation of King George II in 1727 and which has become an integral part of the proceedings.

The anointing is followed by dressing of the monarch in the spectacular robe of cloth of gold called the Supertunica and the long Imperial Mantle. The monarch is then presented with other items from the Coronation Regalia.

These include the gold spurs, the jewelled Sword of Offering and the Armills. The Armills are gold bracelets representing sincerity and wisdom. It is at this point that the monarch also receives the Sovereign’s Orb, as well as a ring and two sceptres.

The Orb is placed in the right hand of the monarch, during the investiture as the symbol of sovereignty. As a cross mounted on a globe, it represents the Christian world and the power of God. It is a reminder to the monarch that their authority is given by God. It is bisected with applied bands incorporating clusters of emeralds, rubies, sapphires and rose diamonds between bands of pearls. Having been handed to the King, it will be removed and placed on the altar before the moment of crowning.

The King will also be presented with the pair of golden spurs. These were first included amongst the regalia of the coronation in 1189 at the coronation of Richard the Lionheart. These represent his ‘knightly values and virtues’, such as protecting the poor, and defending the church. The current spurs are gold, made in 1661 for Charles1 and adapted in 1820 for George IV. In the past, the spurs were attached to the sovereign’s feet, but on May 6th they will be held at the ankle of the king.

The Sovereign’s ring will be placed on his fourth finger. The ring has the cross of St George at the centre formed from five rubies, overlaying an octagonal cut sapphire and bordered with fourteen old cushion cut diamonds. The ring was originally made by Royal Goldsmiths and Silversmiths Rundell, Bridge and Rundell for the coronation of William IV. It is said to be a symbol of ‘kingly dignity’.

The coronation sword, also known as The Jewelled Sword of Offering, will be presented by the archbishop, who first blesses the sword and then presents it with the direction that it should be used for the protection of the good and the punishment of evil. First used in 1821 by George IV, it has been used at all coronations since 1902. Like the Sovereign’s ring, the sword, made from blued steel, with a gold, jewel encrusted hilt and jewelled leather scabbard, was a commission from Rundell Bridge and Rundell.

The ceremony culminates with the placing of the St Edward’s Crown on the monarch’s head, the actual ‘coronation’.

The new King will change his crown for The Imperial State Crown as he leaves the Abbey. This is the crown that he will wear for future state occasions like the annual opening of Parliament. Although set in gold with 2,868 diamonds, 269 pearls, 17 sapphires, 11 emeralds and four rubies, it weighs a mere 2.3lb and is a more practical choice. It was worn by the Queen when she left Westminster Abbey in 1953. It was originally made for the coronation of her father, King George VI, in 1937.

Many of us grew up listening to older relatives tell tales of the Queen’s coronation. Televisions were purchased for the first time for the occasion, families huddled round radios to hear the ceremony live, and there is the enduring account of Queen Salote Tupou III who refused to be cowed by the rain and rode through London in an open topped carriage. No doubt King Charles’s coronation will be a different meld of old, new and unexpected acts of generosity and kindness. We can but wish for a day of joy and hope, amidst the tradition and ceremony.

L for Lapis Lazuli

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Lapis lazuli is one of the oldest stones recorded, a favourite gem for amulets and scarabs in ancient Egypt. Lapis lazuli artefacts have been found at excavations of the Predynastic Egyptian site Naqada (3300–3100 BC) and was used for Tutankhamun’s gold mask.

It has been mined as early as 7570 BC in Afghanistan and is mentioned in the Old Testament, referred to as “sapphire”. Exodus 24:10: “And they saw the God of Israel, and there was under his feet as it were a paved work of a sapphire stone…” Scholars agree that the Latin reference to the blue gem “lapidis sapphirine” is in fact lapis lazuli, not sapphire.

The name comes from the Latin lapis, “stone,” and the Persian lazhuward, “blue.” The mineral is formed of multiple components: lazurite, sodalite, calcite, and pyrite – nicknamed “fool’s gold” and appear as gold flecks.

Lapis lazuli is known for its intense blue, with the most prized colours ranging from greenish blue to violetish blue and highly saturated medium to dark tone. If other minerals are present, it will alter its appearance and may have an impact on the desirability. Specks of “gold” pyrite are highly acceptable, however if there is an excess of white calcite the gem will be less valuable. The lower grade lapis lazuli is green and dull in appearance. The more lazurite, the deeper the blue, often referred to as royal blue. The more pyrite, the greener the gem.

Afghanistan, and more specifically the northeastern province of Badakhshan, has always, and still does, produce the most prized lapis lazuli. In fact, the trade name for the highest quality lapis lazuli is nicknamed Persian or Afghan and contains very little or no calcite or pyrite. The condition to access the lapis lazuli are ruthless.

Unfortunately recent events have pushed the mineral to now be classified as a conflict mineral as the “6,500 year old lapis mines are driving corruption, conflict and extremism in the country. Global Witness has found that the Taliban and other armed groups are earning up to 20 million dollars per year from Afghanistan’s lapis mines, the world’s main source of the brilliant blue lapis lazuli stone, which is used in jewellery around the world.”

Other trade names include Russian or Siberian. These variations contain pyrite and might contain some calcite. Chilean is another trade name with obvious calcite traces and often green. Though the names refer to geographic locations, the stones may not be mined there.

Lapis lazuli’s use has always been very versatile. It can be cut into beads, inlaid in rings, fashioned into bowls and carved into ornamental objects.

Due to its intense blue colour, the gem became a favourite amongst Renaissance painters. Lapis lazuli was crushed and the blue pigment was named ultramarine, from the Latin “ultramarinus”, meaning beyond the sea.

The 17th century Dutch painter Johannes Vermeer used this very expensive pigment in abundance in his paintings.

Several others made use of ultramarine in their iconic artworks.

The use of lapis lazuli was synonymous with great wealth. It is not surprising that in the Medici Chapel in Florence the gem is heavily represented, such as on the Altar of the Chapel of Princes.

However due to its classification as a conflict gem, will demand, availability and use in jewellery continue to thrive?

Oscars 2023, Dazzled by Snakes, Green Gems and Timeless Chic

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Bvlgari strikes again with their Serpenti collection wrapped around Angela Bassett, Cara Delevingne and the outstanding screenwriter Phoebe Waller-Bridge.

Angela Bassett wore matching diamond-set necklace and bangle by Bvlgari, mounted in 18ct white gold. A similar necklace was sold at Sotheby’s in November 2021 with an estimate of CHF 220,000 – 325,000. The necklace set with approximately 70 carats of diamonds sold for CHF 252,000 (approximately £230,000).

Bvlgari retails a diamond-set bangle in white gold for £81,000 and is set with just under nine carats of diamonds.

Angela Bassett

Simpler versions of the bracelet can be found in yellow or rose gold for £5,300.

Matching her Dolce & Gabbana gown, Phoebe Waller-Bridge wore a diamond and emerald-set Serpenti necklace mounted in rose gold.

Bvlgari currently retails a rose gold diamondset Serpenti Viper necklace in rose gold for £45,900, with 4.41 carats of diamonds.

One of the show stoppers of the evening was stunning Cara Delevingne. In the style of Old Hollywood, she embodied chic and glamour in an off the shoulder Elie Saab gown with bow and high leg slit.

The outfit was completed with diamond and emeralds in the form of Serpenti threestrand necklace matching bracelet, Serpenti Seduttori earrings and ring.

From the same Seduttori emerald and diamond collection, a ring currently retails for £12,700. The coiled body is set with 0.57 carat of diamonds and the eyes are highlighted by 0.20 carat pear-shaped emeralds.

Moving away from the Serpenti collection was the appearance of the Diva’s Dream jewellery collection worn by Rainsford Qualley, Andie MacDowell’s daughter.

Chic and understated, the earrings are set with mother-of-pearl and mounted in white gold. The Diva’s Dream mother-of-pearl earring range is priced from £2,130 to £2,760 with a diamond surround.

For those not adorned in Bvlgari, exquisite green-gemmed jewellery certainly made a statement on the red carpet.

Sofia Carson wore a superb Chopard emerald and diamond necklace featuring seven octagonal-shaped emeralds totalling 122.49 carats along with 92.57 carats of pear-shaped, marquise, baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds set in white gold jewellery from the brand’s “Haute Joaillerie Collection.”

Fellow actress Jessica Chastain also opted for Haute Joaillerie collection from Franco- Italian designer Gucci, complementing the strapless sequined gown also by the designer. However, unlike Sofia Carson, the green gems were not emeralds but tsavorites, a form of garnet, 80 carats worth.

Other famous jewellery designer to include the green gem in its design is Cartier, with the famous Panthère collection.

This diamond, onyx, and tsavorite garnet necklace was sold for GBP 37,500 at Sotheby’s in June 2016.

Cartier was certainly a contender for the most jaw-dropping piece of jewellery of this 95th Award ceremony with a large pear-shaped yellow sapphire worn by Deepika Padukone.

Though yellow sapphires are less expensive than yellow diamonds, they are nonetheless breathtakingly beautiful and perfectly accentuate any black outfit!

Understated? Perhaps not quite, but maybe more subtle than the Serpenti collection, the yellow sapphire necklace by Cartier was my winner for this year’s Oscars. Not to say I would turn down being draped in Bvlgari Serpenti jewels to accept my award for best screenplay!

This might just be one Diva’s Dream but then anything’s possible in Hollywood, so carry on dreaming…

A few of my favorite glitz from the SAG Awards 2023

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This year’s big winner of the evening was the family adventure Everything Everywhere All at Once whose leading actress Michelle Yeoh won the award for Female Actor in a Leading Role.

Just as she did for the Bafta, she dazzles us once again with spectacular pieces by Moussaieff including a yellow diamond and diamond ring, set with a 21.02 carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond between pear-shaped diamond shoulders.

To put this into perspective, a 3.03 carats Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond ring mounted in platinum is currently up for sale at Sotheby’s online for USD 195,000. I leave it to your imagination to work out the cost of the above 21 carats diamond!

She paired the ring with a pair of chandelier yellow diamond and diamond earrings.

The earrings are set with 24.70 carats of pear shaped Fancy Intense Yellow diamonds, and 11.08 carats of pear-shaped and brilliant-cut white diamonds.

The outfit was finished with a Richard Mille wristwatch for which she is also a brand ambassador.

Fellow actor Ke Huy Quan, who won the Outstanding Performance by Male Actor in a Supporting role category and made history by being the first Asian actor to win this SAG award, looked dashing with a De Beers brooch from The Alchemist of Light high jewellery collection, set with a 2.70 carat oval Fancy Grey diamond within a blue aluminium surround.

The beautiful collection by De Beers include the Ascending Shadows Small Earrings.

Set with two central diamonds each weighing 1.01 carats and 1.02 carats, E, VS2, within a surround of diamond, the total weight adding to 6.30 carats and mounted in 18 carat white gold, 18 carat rose gold, titanium & aluminium. These currently retail for £94,500. Similar designs of the collection include a headband, necklace and cocktail ring.

Other red carpet nominees and actors wearing De Beers exceptional pieces included Angela Bassett, Li Jun Li, Hannah Einbinder, and Katherine Waterston. Cara Delevingne dazzled in a “few” De Beers pieces.

These included: The Alchemist of Light ‘Midnight Aura’ Necklace set in 18 carat white gold with 74.73 carats of diamonds, The Alchemist of Light ‘Midnight Aura’ Earrings set in 18 carat black rhodium plated white gold with 9.58 carats of diamonds, a diamond line bracelet set in platinum with 17.03 carats of diamonds, Volute Ring set in platinum with 6.80 carats of diamonds, Adonis Rose Pear
Diamond Ring set in platinum with 5.40 carats of diamonds, a diamond eternity band set in platinum with 6.14 carats of diamonds, and a round brilliant diamond eternity band set in platinum with 7.15 carats of diamonds.

The Volute diamond ring can be yours for USD 218,000.

One of my favourite red carpet actresses is Zendaya. She is faultless! And this year’s 29th ceremony of the SAG awards was no exception. Nominated for Best Female Actor in a Drama Series for her starring role as Rue in HBO’s Euphoria, she paired her pastel pink Valentino Haute Couture gown with a Bvlgari bib necklace set with aquamarine, tanzanite and morganite.

Later that night, to present an award, she changed outfits and wore a Bvlgari chocker centrally-set with an oval -shaped aquamarine.

I always say that a red carpet is not quite complete without a Bvlgari Serpenti necklace. Emily Blunt’s Oscar de la Renta gown was styled with a pink gold choker with diamonds and rubies from Bvlgari’s
new collection celebrating Serpenti’s 75th anniversary, along with pavé diamond earrings and a platinum ring.

A similar Bvlgari Serpenti diamond and ruby necklace sold at Sotheby’s in July 2022 for HKD 1,625,000 (approximately £171,375).

 

One can have its own Bvlgari Serpenti collection with this Serpenti Seduttori ring for £9,000 or Serpenti necklace for £20,900.

And who knows, perhaps draped in Bvlgari, the SAG awards might have the pleasure of having you walk down its red carpet next year…

Who wore what, your guide to the BAFTA 2023 glitz

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Since 2010, the Prince of Wales has been the President of the Baftas and on Sunday, the Princess of Wales, was, as always, an example of chic, elegance and forward thinking while restyling an Alexander McQueen dress she previously wore in 2019.

She paired the white one-shouldered gown with Cascading floral earrings by Zara, selling for £17.99.

The Prince of Wales was seen wearing a Rolex while the host of the BAFTAs, Richard E. Grant was spotted wearing two watches: a Tank by Cartier, set to UK time, gifted by his wife and a chronograph set to Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) in memory of his late father.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other dapper attendees included Regé-Jean Page, who combined his fitted suit with diamond double-clips. These clips are a classic of the 1920s and are typically set with brilliant, baguette and calibré-cut diamonds. Calibré-cut stones are gems that have been cut to fit a precise setting.

Sotheby’s had a sale estimate of CHF 4,800-7,500 for this diamond double-clip brooch in July 2022 and in fact advertised it worn in a similar manner as Regé-Jean Page.

He also sported a Cartier watch, Santos de Cartier, which ranges from £3,550 for a small model steel design to £61,000, mounted in rose gold.

Regé-Jean Page was not the only one seen wearing the diamond clips on a suit. Fellow actor Paul Mescal wore a similar clip by Cartier.

Regé-Jean Page was not the only one seen wearing the diamond clips on a suit. Fellow actor Paul Mescal wore a similar clip by Cartier.

Designed by Francesca Amfitheatrof, it is connected to uniform rows of silver Tahitian pearls together with matching earrings. “Your effort to focuson rewearing and repurposing led us to this necklace. Using Tahitian pearls, gold, diamonds and a 23.78 carats Nigerian Tourmaline, all from existing pieces. I loved making this necklace for you!” said Amfitheatrof.

The actress also wore a gold and diamond ring from Louis Vuitton Stellar Times High jewellery collection, for which she has been a brand ambassador since June 2022. Other jewellery designers have reinvented their collection using their legacy designs. “Frédéric Boucheron innovated, over 130 years ago, with feather creations strong in symbolism and style” and at this year’s BAFTAs Angela Bassett looks sublime wearing the brands Plume de Paon earrings.

Measuring 6cm and set with under 6 carats of diamonds, the earrings retail for £94,100 in white gold and £85,500 in rose gold. You can read more about the stunning creations from the designer in my article B for Boucheron.

Other show stoppers included the jewellery by Moussaieff worn by Michelle Yeoh.

Moussaieff is renowned for its exceptional gems, including diamonds weighing up to 100 carats for sale in their Bond Street store. The items worn by the actress did not disappoint when it comes to the wow factor. She was seen wearing a Burmese ruby and diamond bangle, diamond earrings, and Burmese pink sapphire ring to complement her pink Dior outfit. To finalise the look, she opted for a Richard Mille wristwatch. One of the most unique watches by the brand, RM27-04 Rafael Nadal, can be bought for just under £2 million on the secondary market.

If over a £1 million is simply too much to spend on a watch, why not “settle” for a beautiful Omega wristwatch, seen worn by Eddie Redmayne.

The actor is brand ambassador and does his job to perfection! The pink dial steel Omega Constellation currently retails for £2,900.

But a red carpet event would not be complete without some Bvlgari Serpenti necklaces. This was the jewellery of choice for a few actresses, such as Lashana Lynch, who very cleverly wore the seprent’s head in her back with matching earrings (currently out of stock but retailing for £29,500 and set with a little over 2 carats of diamonds). A similar necklace was sold at Sotheby’s for USD920,000 in April 2019.

Julianne Moore effortlessly wore the Bvlgari necklace, or perhaps were there two or three?

Red carpets are always a delight to discover new jewels, and ways of wearing them and pairing them  with outfits. Let there be sparkles and glitz!

Helen’s guide for that special Valentine’s day gift

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Valentine’s is a day that is dedicated to love. It originated as a Christian feast day honouring Saint Valentine, a martyr who lived in the 3rd century AD. It is now a day for people to express their love and appreciation for their significant others, friends, and family.

Some people choose to exchange gifts of jewellery and what better gift than one that you can see your loved one wear and can make a great investment for the future. The gift that keeps on giving!

Here is Helen’s guide and suggestions on the perfect gift for Valentine’s Day.

Firstly, let’s look at the things to consider when choosing jewellery:

A good thing to consider is the rarity of a piece. Antique or vintage jewellery can increase in value due to its rarity. Jewellery set with fine quality gemstones can also command very high prices at retail and auction.

Rubies and pink sapphires make an excellent choice for valentine’s day.

The Italian Jeweller Pomellato have some beautifully designed gem-set jewellery that sells very well at auction. This beautiful bracelet was estimated £4000 – £6000 at Bonhams in 2022.

Below is an example of a 4.02ct ruby that sold at Sotheby’s in 2021 for $63,000. The excellent quality stone was accompanied by a report from GRS (Gem Research Swiss lab) stating that the ruby was of Mozambican origin with no indications of heating.

As well as rarity, the quality and craftsmanship of a piece of jewellery can make a huge difference to its value. High-quality jewellery made with fine materials and gemstones can also increase in value over time.

Another important factor is market demand. Diamond jewellery is always in high demand and popular both at retail and auction. Diamond single stone rings remain the most popular choice for an engagement ring. Other examples of popular diamond jewellery include earrings, pendants, and bracelets.

Here is an example of a stunning diamond line bracelet by De Beers retailing for £92,500. De Beers are famous for their exquisite selection of diamond jewellery.

Jewellery made by some well-known brands and designers, such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. can make great investments and they also have many romantically themed designs perfect for Valentine’s Day.

Pieces from these brands often increase in value over time due to their popularity.

Here is an example of a Cartier Love bangle that went through auction in 2005 and sold for £600 including premium. This bangle in today’s market would sell for more than £4000. That’s a huge increase in value.

Bonhams 2005 Cartier love bangle sells for £600.

Bonhams 2022 Cartier love bangle sells for £4080.

Diamonds also make a great investment and remain a classic choice for Valentine’s Day.

This is a colour D, IF clarity diamond is valued at over £100,000.

Diamonds have been traded since the 4th century, they have stood the test of time and this longevity is a testament to their strength, rarity and beauty.

In many ways their value is protected by rising mining, manufacturing, shipping, and insurance costs involved in bringing a diamond to market and this helps to maintain their value.

As Marilyn Monroe sang… “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend.”

The best way to select a diamond is to familiarise yourself with their grading system. During the middle of the 20th century The Gemmological Institute of America (GIA) created a grading system for diamonds. It is now recognised globally as the universal method for assessing the quality of a stone.

It can be extremely helpful as it tells you the quality of what you are purchasing and its these specific details that establish a diamonds value.

The system focuses on the Four C’s, which stand for Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat.

Colour

When it comes to colour in diamonds, it’s more about what you can’t see. When grading colour, we are assessing the absence of colour, a measurement of the degree of colourlessness in a stone.

It’s measured from D (perfectly white) to M (Yellow) see the below scale.

The most valuable on the scale are pure white, D colour.

Clarity

The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale has six categories

  • Flawless (FL) No inclusions and no blemishes visible under 10x magnification
  • Internally Flawless (IF) No inclusions visible under 10x magnification
  • Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2) Inclusions so slight they are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification
  • Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2) Inclusions are observed with effort under 10x magnification, but can be characterized as minor
  • Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2) Inclusions are noticeable under 10x magnification
  • Included (I1, I2, and I3) Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification which may affect transparency and brilliance

Here is a visual example of the clarity scale

The most valuable having a clarity grade of flawless, most commercial diamonds have a clarity of VS / SI.

Here is an example of a colour D, clarity IF diamond selling for £500,000.

Carat

A diamonds weight is represented by carat weight. All else being equal, diamond price increases with diamond carat weight because larger diamonds are rarer and more desirable. The increase in price between a 0.99ct diamond and a 1.00ct diamond is huge even though there is a very minute size difference, this is because commercially a 1.00ct diamond is more desirable.

Cut

A diamond with optimum proportions and cut will display the best amounts of fire and brightness, that lovely effect that makes diamonds so unique and beautiful. You will often see the grade of a cut ranging from excellent to poor recorded on certificates.

Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. select the best quality diamonds for their jewellery.

Designer Jewellery

Cartier

Cartier is a very well-known luxury jewellery brand with a long history of creating luxurious and elegant jewellery, here are some of their most popular designs.

The Love Collection

The Cartier Love Collection is a classic design that has become synonymous with the brand. It’s simple, yet elegant with designs available in gold and platinum and some set with diamonds and gemstones.

Both diamond love bracelets retail for £40,700, the rose gold version would work particularly well for Valentine’s Day.

This plain rose gold version retails for £6350.

The Trinity Collection

The Cartier Trinity Collection is also a very popular choice. Made up of three bands of yellow, white, and rose gold, the pieces are said to be a symbol of love, friendship, and loyalty. A great message to send on Valentine’s Day.

They are available in a variety of styles with some set with diamonds.

Here is one of the more commonly seen versions with diamonds set to one of the bands.

This diamond set example retails for £6,150.

This diamond set version retails for £32,400 and would make a lovely gift with its use of rose, yellow and white gold.

There are also pendants, earrings, and bracelets available in the same design.

A very rare version is a bangle set with white, pink, and yellow diamonds, which retails for £250,000!

Cartier are not only known for their jewellery but also have a great selection of watches. The Tank Française watch is a classic design that was first introduced in 1917. It has since become one of the brand’s most iconic watches. These watches are very popular and sell well, they are perfect for someone looking for an alternative to jewellery on Valentine’s Day. Cartier also have a great selection of gentleman’s watches.

This gold and diamond Tank Française retails at Cartier for £26,300.

This stainless-steel version retails for £4200.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Another famous jewellery brand is Van Cleef & Arpels (VCA). Two models which are hugely popular and collectable are the ‘Alhambra’ and ‘Ballerina’.

The iconic Alhambra design has clovershaped motifs often set with various gemstones. They come in various designs such as long chains, bracelets, rings, and earrings.

The red gem Carnelian is set in this Alhambra VCA pendant and retails for £1490.

The malachite version of the Alhambra design is now very rare and no longer produced by VCA, therefore the secondary market has overtaken the retail price when the piece was still available.

This one sold for £28,000 at Christies in 2018. Another iconic design by VCA is the Ballerina collection which features delicate, dancing ballerina-inspired designs. They were inspired by a collaboration with Benjamin Millepied, the new dance director at the Paris Opéra, and his wife, the actress Natalie Portman.

These designs are no longer produced by VCA and make great money when they come up at auction.

The above turquoise, ruby and diamond Ballerina brooch by Van Cleef & Arperls sold for $218,000 in 2017 at Christies New York.

This diamond, ruby, sapphire, and emerald version sold for £6000 at auction in 2010. They would make a great gift if a loved one who has a passion for dancing, or perhaps you met on a wedding dance floor!

Tiffany & Co.

We couldn’t talk about great jewellery designers without mentioning Tiffany & Co. They have released many iconic designs over the years and here are some examples of their most popular.

The “Return to Tiffany” Collection features classic and timeless designs, such as heart lockets and charm bracelets engraved with ‘Return to Tiffany & Co. New York’ its most famous store.

Tiffany & Co. are particularly well-known for their diamond engagement rings; in fact, the “Tiffany Setting” ring is iconic. Rings can sell for hundreds of thousands of pounds depending on the quality and size of the diamond. Perhaps the epitome of romantic jewellery, a Tiffany engagement ring!

Another great example of Tiffany & Co jewellery is designed by Jean Schlumberger. He was one of the 20th century’s most gifted artists and his designs have been described as deeply imaginative, as well as being extremely desirable.

This beautiful enamel bracelet retails for just under £50,000.

Schlumberger’s designs at Tiffany & Co. were known for their whimsical interpretations of natural forms. He was especially inspired by sea creatures and other animals. Now he is most known for his enamel bangles and his diamond kisses rings. These are extremely popular at retail and at auction.

The kisses ring retails for £11,200.

Schlumberger began working for Tiffany & Co in 1956 and his original designs can sell for very high prices at auction.

This bird on a rock brooch set with a large Citrine weighing 61.20ct sold for £37,000 at auction.

Antique Jewellery

Art Deco

Antique jewellery can also make a great investment and is often romantically themed.

Art Deco jewellery is characterised by its geometric shapes and bold use of colour, making it a popular and romantic choice for special occasions.

Engagement rings from the Art Deco period are very popular, the target design was given as a token of love because it represented the bullseye shot by cupid’s arrow.

This diamond and ruby Art Deco target ring retails for £46,000.

Art Deco jewellery also sells very well at auction.

Victorian Jewellery

Queen Victorian reigned from 1839 to 1901 and the styles of the Victorian period are very intimately connected with the different stages in her life.

In 1840 Queen Victoria married the love of her life Prince Albert and this had a huge influence on jewellery styles. The theme for jewellery was love with motifs of hands, hearts, crosses, and knots to represent an eternal bond between two people. Snakes also featured, symbolising promise and being in love forever.

This diamond heart retails for £1500 and is set with 0.50ct of rose-cut diamonds a cut often used in the Victorian period.

This Victorian Lovers knot ring is another example of the romantic jewellery from the Victorian period. This retails for £1300.

This example of a ‘forget me not’ ring is set with an onyx that has been beautifully decorated with bright cushion-cut diamonds in the shape of a pansy. The pansy represents the message ‘pensée à moi’ which translates to ‘think of me’.

The theme of romance remained abundant throughout Victoria’s reign with lockets becoming increasingly popular. Wearers enjoyed holding pictures of loved ones inside.

Valentine’s Day is a special time to show your love and a piece of jewellery can be the perfect way to do so.

So, why not make this Valentine’s Day extra special with a beautiful and meaningful gift that’s lasts a lifetime and says I love you.

But remember to add to your insurance policy and get an up-to-date valuation next Valentine’s Day as the retail replacement value may have increased!