Category Archives: Jewellery

This week’s pick – Trooping the Colour and Princess Catherine

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What fan of Princess Catherine would I be if this week’s pick didn’t focus on her one-off appearance for the King’s birthday?

Princess Catherine delighted the nation on the 15th June by attending the celebrations. With her family by her side and gleaming smile, I don’t think anyone could tell she was undergoing any treatment.

She wore a Jenny Packham dress, reworked from last year’s coronation.

Long-sleeved with thin black piping at the waist and an oversized bow on her lapel, she completed the look with a white Philip Treacy headpiece, white pumps and a black clutch.

As for the jewellery, the Princess of Wales wore Cassandra Goad Cavolfiore earrings in 18ct yellow gold, set with 2mm white cultured pearls and approximately 0.30ct of diamonds. These retail for £5,620.

One could accentuate the look with the matching Carioca cuff bracelet by Cassandra Goad, retailing for £9,580.

As a Colonel of Irish Guards, the Princess added to her jewels, the Irish Guards Regimental brooch.

The Irish Guards, to whom the Princess wrote a letter wishing them good luck for the event and to let them know how proud she was of them, were among the British troops participating in the parade.

Little fact about this year’s Trooping of the Colour: for the first time in more than 100 years, soldiers on parade were allowed to have beards, approved by the King earlier this year and which applies across the Army.

The Princess has once again shown how devoted and courageous she is: being scrutinised by millions during these times could certainly not have been easy. But, let’s be honest, she smashed it! My only glamour during my treatment was putting on my wig for very special occasions!

Though delighted to see the Princess at a public event, she has warned she is “not out of the woods yet” and it will be some time before she makes another appearance.

Until her treatment is over, I wish her and all those affected by the disease much strength.

The Trooping of the Colour marks the official birthday of the British Sovereign and has been celebrated in June for over 260 years.

Over 1400 parading soldiers, 200 horses and 400 musicians participate, together with an RAF fly-past.

The operational soldiers wear the ceremonial uniform of red tunics and bearskin hats and are inspected by the Sovereign once they reach Horse Guard’s Parade in Whitehall. The parade moves from Buckingham Palace and down The Mall to Horse Guard’s Parade and carries on to Whitehall.

Pick of the week highlights of the Bonhams jewellery sale

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I had the pleasure of viewing the upcoming jewellery sale at Bonhams on New Bond Street this week. I received such a warm greeting from an old colleague at the front desk, and proceeded to head to the viewing room. Now, some might say they are too scared or intimidated to walk through these halls, let alone have the audacity to look at a jewellery sale on display. But here’s the secret… It’s open to everyone! And you should take advantage of these viewings. Think of it as a free museum entrance with endless exhibitions of exceptional goods, which have been, more often than not, hidden away from the public for generations.

I had the pleasure of being shown some highlights of this 118 lot sale.

These included a pair of Castellani sapphire bracelets from 1865.

These bracelets of Byzantine inspiration really are beautifully made. Castellani is one of the best when it comes to archaeological revival style jewellery and these pieces are no exception. “To have one bracelet is wonderful but to have two is very rare” said Jean Ghika, Global Head of Jewellery. With an estimate of £25,000 – 35,000, I am sure they will find a new home.

Still in the antique jewellery section of the sale are these spectacular “Night and Day” diamond earrings.

Still in their original box, these earrings can be altered depending on the mood. One can wear the diamonds for a dash of dazzle or cover them up with the cannetille beads. It is an extraordinary piece and statement to earlier craftmanship. They have an estimate of £12,000 – 18,000.

It should come as no surprise that my eye was immediately drawn to an early 20th century Cartier piece: an enamel and diamond fob watch circa 1910.

The delicate purple guilloché enamel is highlighted by a central diamond and a diamond border. The reverse is everything that makes Cartier watches: blue steeled hands, engine-turned dial and attention to detail. The very attractive estimate of £6,000 – 8,000 is bound to call out collectors.

Amongst the highlights is a sapphire and diamond cluster ring, circa 1890 with an estimate of £60,000 – 80,000. Why the price tag? That would be due to the origin of the sapphire: Kashmir with no evidence of treatment. Though a little abraided on the facet edges, a quick repolish would restore this stone and ring to its original glamourous state.

This piece shows once more the importance of getting gems certificated, as origin or colour and clarity can affect its value dramatically. This is even more apparent with the “Toi et Moi” blue and pink diamond crossover ring by Mouawad.

Both diamonds weigh a little over 5 carats, natural Fancy Intense Blue colour, VVS2 clarity and natural Fancy Purple-Pink colour, I1 clarity.

Bonhams says: “It is estimated that as little as 1 in 10,000 gem-quality diamonds extracted from the Earth’s crust show noticeable colour and of these stones, an exceedingly small percentage are blue or pink. The majority of these rare marvels of nature are under 2.00 carats in weight and stones exceeding 5.00 carats, are even rarer. Stones with high intensity colour grades such as ‘Fancy Deep’, ‘Fancy Vivid’ and ‘Fancy Intense’ are considered some of the most desirable colour classifications by GIA.” Due to its rarity the estimate for this ring is £1,000,000 – 1,500,000.

The Bonhams London Jewels sale that was held on 13th June garnered extraordinary results, with a total of £6,590,562, with 78% sold by lot.

Jewellery Pick of the Week Cannes Film Festival

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It should come as no surprise to those who have read my previous articles that I would have chosen Cannes Film Festival for this week’s pick. A red carpet is always a good opportunity to see some of the most beautiful haute couture and jewellery which are inaccessible to most of us. Today I am looking at jewellery pieces by Tiffany & Co. worn by Camille Cottin – for whom I happen to have written a feature length jewellery heist screenplay.

As Mistress of Ceremony of the 77th Cannes Festival, and ambassador for Tiffany & Co., the spectacular French actress wore Tiffany Edge diamond drop earrings. These are set with 3.27cts of diamonds, mounted in platinum and 18ct yellow gold and retail for £32,800.

That same evening for the gala’s opening dinner, while still adhering to a very chic and elegant style, she sported another Tiffany & Co. suite from the HardWear collection.

Her neck was adorned with the Tiffany HardWear Graduated Link Necklace in yellow gold and pavé diamonds. It retails for £72,500 and is set with 9.07cts of diamonds.

The earrings en suite are set with 1.18cts of diamonds and retail for £15,800.

This particular jewellery line comes in white, yellow and rose gold, and can, as demonstrated the last few days, be worn to any circumstances, it really is a girl’s best friend.

The choice in design from Tiffany & Co. jewellery seems to resonate the theme of this year’s opening ceremony: women at the forefront of film and creativity. Camille Cottin’s speech mentioned #MeToo movement, the extraordinary Meryl Streep was awarded the Palme d’Or after a moving speech by Juliette Binoche, and Greta Gerwig (director of Barbie) was appointed President of the jury, six years after the last female jury president Cate Blanchett, in 2018. The HardWear collection says it all in its name and in its polished smooth and geometric lines. How could a jewellery collection be more perfect to echo both femininity and power.

To find out more about our jewellery valuation service, call us on 01883 722736 or email [email protected]

Jewellery Remodelling and Rediscovering Lost Treasures

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In an age where sustainability reigns as a paramount concern, the world of luxury is undergoing a profound transformation. Amidst this shift, an ancient practice finds renewed relevance: jewellery remodelling. Beyond mere aesthetics, this artful process breathes new life into forgotten treasures, championing environmental stewardship while indulging in the opulence of the past.

For those unsure of where to begin their jewellery remodelling odyssey, fear not – expert guidance from professionals like Lottie Leigh awaits. With a refined process honed over time, clients are gently ushered through the labyrinth of design possibilities. Even the most uncertain find clarity through collaborative visioning, discovering desires they didn’t know they had. It’s a journey of self-discovery as much as it is about transforming jewels, guided by passion and precision.

A Tradition of Elegance: From Aristocracy to Modernity

The art of jewellery remodelling is steeped in history, tracing its roots back through centuries of opulent adornment. From the courts of European monarchs to the palaces of Asia, this practice has long been a hallmark of aristocratic taste. Notably, the royal family has been a bastion of jewellery remodelling, with illustrious examples found in the treasure troves of the Princess of Wales. Pieces once cherished and now languishing in drawers find new life through thoughtful redesign – a testament to the enduring allure of sustainable luxury.

The Digital Canvas: Bringing Dreams to Life with CAD/3D Design

Innovation meets tradition in Lottie Leigh’s digital atelier, where dreams take shape with unparalleled precision, all driven by you. Here’s how Lottie facilitates this process: Through the marvels of CAD/3D design, you, as the client, assume full control, meticulously crafting every detail of your envisioned piece. Imagine this: a 360-degree image displayed on a screen, granting you the ability to explore and refine your creation to perfection.

But it doesn’t end there. Once your design is finalised, Lottie employs 3D printing technology to materialise it. This means you can not only see but also physically try on your design, ensuring it aligns seamlessly with your style and preferences. After all, being able to see and try on the design before anything is made is paramount. How can you truly know you love something without experiencing it firsthand?

This transformative tool not only streamlines the design process but also transcends geographical barriers, enabling seamless remote collaboration from inception to completion. It’s a modern twist on an ancient art, where imagination knows no bounds.

From Old to New: Trading Unworn Treasures for Fresh Beginnings

For those seeking to breathe new life into dormant jewels, an option exists to trade and upgrade unworn gemstones. Whether it’s diamonds, sapphires, or emeralds or other precious gems, these forgotten treasures find new purpose in bespoke creations. This exchange not only revitalises collections but minimizes environmental impact, aligning with the ethos of sustainable luxury. It’s a journey of transformation – a testament to the timeless allure of reinvention.

In the tapestry of luxury, jewellery remodelling stands as a beacon of sustainability and elegance – a testament to the enduring allure of heirloom treasures and the boundless creativity of human ingenuity. From the hallowed halls of royalty to the ateliers of modern artisans, this artful practice bridges past and present, leaving an indelible mark on both history and the future. As we embark on this odyssey of remembrance and renewal, may each jewel shine brightly, a testament to the timeless union of luxury and sustainability.

Doerr Dallas are delighted to have Lottie share her knowledge and expertise with us and our client base. Many of us have pieces gifted to us by our family members that are sitting in drawers that sadly we do not wear as fashion changes, so having an option to redesign is wonderful.

It is always important to remember that once you have ‘redesigned’ a piece of jewellery the need for re-valuing becomes more important. At the moment, with jewellery prices on the high street increasing; the price of gold going up daily, we are recommending to our clients to update their jewellery valuations if their current valuation was over two years ago.

To arrange a jewellery valuation give us a call on 01883 722736 or email us on [email protected]

 

This Week’s Jewellery Pick

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I recently finished the multiple award-winning show The Marvellous Mrs Maisel. And if you haven’t seen it yet, you know what you’ll be doing straight after reading this article!

The main character, Midge Maisel, played to perfection by Rachel Brosnahan is based on Joan Rivers.

Other characters are real, such as Lenny Bruce, others fictional. Created by Amy Sherman-Palladino, it portrays women’s experiences in the mid-20th century, focusing specifically on a young Jewish woman trying it to make it on the comedy scene.

The series is mostly set in the late 50s and 60s and the costume and jewellery are divine. Costume designer Donna Zakowska created a dream wardrobe for all the characters, earning her awards for her creativity.

Not only are the dresses and jewels visually stunning, they add and carry the story, they are a story of their own. Today I will look at the pearls used in the series and especially one set of doublestrand cultured pearls which Mrs Maisel wears for her first official stand-up at the Gaslight Café (a sticky downtown New York club where the great Joan Rivers also performed).

In this moment she experiences great success, slightly undermined by some misogynistic remarks, then put to right by her estranged husband, and the outfit is perfect and effective. A black dress complemented by a pearl necklace.

The double-strand is strung and knotted with 6mm peach cultured pearls. The pearls appear to be uniform in shape, colour and lustre.

And when looking to purchase pearls, these are the most determining factors in assessing pearl necklaces. In this scene, the choice of colour sends the message of softness, being peach and not gold, and also lets us extrapolate that she could become very successful in the future, the pearls being almost golden. Mrs Maisel and her success shine thanks to the peachy colour and also due to the pearls’ lustre. Lustre measures the rate of light reflecting off the surface of the pearl and the sharpness of reflection visible on its surface. We often describe these as poor, fair, good and excellent. The better the lustre, the more radiance and glow they emit.

The pearls are also well matched and round. Their shape in this scene is key. She is trying to make a name for herself in a male dominated industry, all the while maintaining and celebrating her femininity and exposing her marital instability and struggles as a mother. The roundness works brilliantly.

Though the above baroque pearl necklace comes with a generous price tag of £7,500 they would have sent a very different message than perfectly round pearls.

It was common practise to have faux pearls at the time and they were very effective. In today’s market they do not have any value. The costs of cultured pearls vary greatly depending on the factors mentioned above, amongst others. But essentially, their value depends on what they mean and signify to the wearer.

Protecting the Cash in the Attic

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Frequently, for those whose homes are filled with antiques and art – particularly when they have been treasured family possessions for generations – potential replacement values for insurance can be overlooked.

Whilst jewellery and silver are often undervalued for insurance – recent costs having increased – there are certain types of objects which can be discounted completely.

With that in mind, Doerr Dallas Valuations would like to share a few examples where interesting history and excellent quality have led to growing value and this fact may lead to under insurance.

Georgian Costume Jewellery

The 18th and early 19th centuries were a time of great innovation and advances in technology. One of the fields in which this was obvious was jewellery design. With sumptuary laws being ignored, and with a growing middleclass keeping up with the latest trends, the desire to own the most fashionable jewellery became widespread. This demand was met by advances in artificial stone production – what would now be described as paste jewellery. Paste stones could be manufactured in a range of dazzling colours – mimicking – or even more vivid than their precious stone equivalents. It made jewellery more affordable to the fashionable of the day.

Costume jewellery, in terms of its financial value, has often been disregarded in comparison with fine jewellery equivalents. However, in recent years a strong market for costume jewellery as a whole is evident. Recently, the Georgian paste jewellery market has strengthened resulting in rocketing prices.

At auction, estimates have been smashed – in February 2023 a suite of blue paste jewellery (parure) comprised of a necklace (which would have been attached by a ribbon), a bracelet and a pair of earrings was offered in auction (Woolley & Wallis lot 148) with an estimate of £200 – £300. The eventual total selling price was over £25,000!

Domestic Metalware

Objects made from brass, copper and pewter may appear ordinary but again their values can be surprising. Lighting, fire grates, door furniture, mortars are all things to consider when arranging an insurance valuation.

Early pieces are highly prized by collectors and their replacement value can be in the thousands. In a recent auction, (The Chapman Pewter Collection – Bishop Miller; April 2023) a rare pewter candlestick manufactured during the reign of Elizabeth I/ James I achieved a selling price of over £30,000 (Lot 43). If you are uncertain as to the origin of your metalware, it is always best to consult a specialist valuer.

Furniture

In recent years the antique furniture market has been much maligned, with reports of the decrease in values being widespread. While the market may not be that of the 1980s, quality antique furniture continues to be esteemed and seeking replacements competitive.

Modest oak and antique country furniture should be closely looked at when considering insurance. Windsor chairs, mule chests, dressers and farmhouse tables are respected amongst collectors.

Treen

In a similar vein to country furniture and domestic metalware – treen – domestic objects made from wood may have been disregarded. In this fierce collecting field, prices can be surprising and some objects extremely rare.

 

 

Toys, Games and Juvenilia

When considering a valuation, looking at the playroom or nursery may not be the first area for attention but with the market for antique toys and games proving ever popular, replacing these treasured possessions can be costly.

Important and interesting 18th and 19th century dolls houses are collected not only by those interested in toys, but for those with a passion for architectural history. These microcosms of the family home often include complete furniture and decoration – showing how families lived and operated their homes. To replace good examples, the anticipated cost will be upwards of £10,000.

Rocking horses have a history which dates back thousands of years – the toy in the current form has existed since the 19th century. Rocking horses, both antique and modern, are a focal point for a playroom and as such should often be insured. When looking to acquire a good 19th or early 20th century example, one should budget over £2,000.

Playing cards, board games and games compendiums may be valuable depending upon age, manufacturer and scarcity. Toy specialists can offer guidance on teddies, dolls and antique toys and games.

Exploring the hidden treasures in your attic could be a delightful journey down memory lane. These items which hold dear memories close to your heart might even surprise you with their financial value.

Jewellery Pick of the week – an alligator hinged bangle by Barry Kieselstein-Cord

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This week’s pick is a gold piece of jewellery with a lot of character and no gems. An alligator hinged bangle by Barry Kieselstein-Cord from the 1980s.

This bangle is made of 18ct yellow gold and realistically designed as an alligator with detailed teeth, eyes and skin. And it could be yours for £20,000.

It was offered at auction at Christie’s with an estimate of $4,000-6,000 and sold for $16,250, including premium.

So why the price tag? This item is a good example of how premium is added to craftsmanship. The bangle weighs a little over 100grms and has been worked and moulded with great care, attention and exceptional know-how.

Barry Kieselstein-Cord didn’t always work with gold. His first collection, dating 1972, was crafted in sterling silver. When we think of silver jewellery, one of the famous names that come to mind is George Jensen. Barry Kieselstein-Cord’s collection was bought and presented at Jensen’s flagship store on Madison Avenue in New York City (now closed).

He shot to stardom and his jewellery was soon a key accessory to have. Movie stars like Diane Keaton were quick to get their hands on this new stylist’s designs. He also worked closely with Calvin Klein and Helmut Newton.

His brand has extended into handbags over the years and are considered works of art. So much so that The Museum of Fine Arts in Houston exhibits his Alligator Trophy Handbag made in 1992.

He also created belt buckles, which caught the attention of the Spanish bull fighter El Cordobès who purchased a horse-head buckle in the 70s.

Whilst he was working with sterling silver he made a skull necklace for Mick Jagger’s 30th birthday and continues to this day to make iconic pieces. Though access to these is very limited and exclusive.

So if you want a piece of history, keep your eye on auctions and specialised vintage jewellery shops as these pieces are very rare and the market is scarce for these recognisable pieces.

This Week’s Jewellery Pick

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This week I saw a lovely collection of antique jewels, dating from the mid-19th century. Mid-19th century felt ‘relatively’ close until I realised it was getting closer to being 200 years old rather than 100… If you’re like me, the 80s was still only 20 years ago! Enough revelation on how old I am and back to this beautiful collection.

The one piece which caught my eye was an onyx mourning brooch dated 1854.

The oval onyx plaque, measuring 4cm x 4.5cm, has an overlaid border of acanthus leaf gold detail, the central glazed compartment with a lock of hair within a surround of 31 seed pearls, in closed-back setting. The reverse was engraved with ‘In Memory of Henry Thomas, Sept 14th 1854, Oct 54 years & 11 Months’.

Though its value might be relatively low, around £500 for Insurance purposes and £200 for open market value, one can immediately sense the priceless sentimental value this piece had.

When Prince Albert died on 14th December 1861 of typhoid fever, Queen Victoria entered a state of mourning and wore black for the remainder of her life.

It was then that onyx became fashionable. The court was quick to follow the new strict “dress code”. With wars and epidemics, death was everywhere. The demand for hair for mourning jewellery was such that it is said an extra 50 tonnes of human hair a year was imported to England to meet the demand.

Though a very personal jewel, the demand for mourning jewellery is constant. The below items, comprising of two mid-19th century gold and enamel mourning brooches and an 1830s gold locket, sold at Bonhams for £1,000 (including premium).

Mourning jewels are both sad and a beautiful statement of the love someone has for a departed. Whether antique or new, it is a celebration of the life that once was.

Stay tuned for next week’s jewellery pick…

Jewellery Valuation

Designer Jewellery Trends – An Upward Curve?

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There is no doubt that values in the designer jewellery field have seen uplifts in the past few years. A unique combination of the Post Pandemic luxury goods ‘boom’, an exponential rise in social media influences on buying patterns, wider inflation and bullion prices have all contributed to an incredibly buoyant and enduring atmosphere.

Similarly to the trends seen over the last couple of years in the watch market, particular designer brands saw a huge increase in popularity, visibility, and subsequent demand on the secondary market, with only a slight respite towards the end of 2023 (Reuters).

Coupled with retail prices ever increasing, the value of these ‘hot’ designer items have been pushed up on the secondary market. Value factors include condition, whether the piece has its box, and the perceived popularity or rarity of any gemstones used in the design.

Cartier

Whilst Cartier’s growth in the retail sphere appeared to be easing towards the end of last year, share prices and figures released in January 2024 display a definite upward curve driven by demand in Asia. This healthy overall trajectory has filtered down to the secondary market, with Cartier items at auction demonstrating a strong sales rate and frequently exceeding estimate.

‘Love’

The last retail price increase for Cartier was implemented in early 2023, with prices rising from anywhere between 3% to over 10%. The most sought-after and iconic collections naturally increased the most, with Pursebop estimating the retail price of an 18ct white gold Love Bracelet set with four diamonds increasing 7% to £12,200.

The Cartier ‘Love’ bangle is one of the most popular items of jewellery ever designed. Created by Aldo Cipullo in 1969 and were referred to as a ‘modern love handcuff,’ only removable with the help of a mini screwdriver.

Worth noting that some designs, including Aldo Cipullo original LOVE jewels from the 1960s onwards will always command a premium for their place in the brand’s design history. Another 1960s design by Cipullo to continue to grow in retail price is the Juste Un Clou, with a ‘small’ diamond set bangle selling for £4,850, and a diamond-set choker necklace now retailing at £105,000.

Cartier Trinity

This year, to celebrate 100 years of the Trinity Collection, Cartier has released two new designs, a re-edition of the XL bracelet and an XL version of the iconic ring. Maintaining the timeless appeal and enduring relevance of this beautiful collection has seen values continue to rise over decades, resulting in a classic collection that is still coveted a century after its creation.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Another brand under the Richemont umbrella is Van Cleef & Arpels. Van Cleef & Arpels was established in 1895 following the marriage of Estelle Arpels, daughter of a dealer in precious stones, and Alfred Van Cleef, son of a lapidary. Creating masterpieces such as the ‘invisible setting,’ the minaudière, and the zip necklace, this iconic jewellery house is perhaps best known in present times for the ‘Alhambra’ collection. Indeed, according to statistics by retailer Watch Pilot, in 2023, the Van Cleef Alhambra bracelet was the most Google searched item of jewellery by category.

VCA Alhambra

Designed in 1968 by Jacques Arpels to be symbolic for luck, the Alhambra Collection is designed around a series of quatrefoil ‘four leaf clover’ panels. Varying in designs with quantity, size, and gem material, these beautifully set clover shapes are truly emblematic of the brand. Worn by royalty and celebrities to include the likes of Princess Grace of Monaco, Elizabeth Taylor, Kate Middleton and many more, the Alhambra collection possesses a truly timeless appeal.

Since 2022, the retail price for an 18ct gold Alhambra bracelet with five mother of pearl motifs has increased by 5.3% to £3,950.

At auction, the Van Cleef Alhambra pieces that well exceeded estimates were limited edition runs and unique pieces that were impossible to procure from the retail market.

One such example was a striking collar necklace, formed from openwork Alhambra links in 18ct yellow gold, selling at Bonhams in 2022 for £50,000 against a £12,000-15,000 estimate.

Boodles

Boodle & Dunthorne was established in Liverpool in 1795, gaining a reputation as one of Britain’s finest jewellers. Rebranding to ‘Boodles’ in 2004, this coveted brand has designed several sought-after jewellery collections that continue to enjoy increases in value as the years go by. Collections such as the Velocity, Blossom, and Raindance are all designed and handcrafted in-house from Boodles’ workshops in the heart of London.

Raindance

Designed in 2000 and inspired by a trip to the Chelsea Flower Show in which Head of Design Rebecca Hawkins admired the way light played on raindrops, the Raindance Collection is seen as one of the brand’s most iconic collections. Indeed, the Victoria & Albert Museum has a Raindance ring on display as part of their ‘Best of British Design’ permanent exhibition.

Featuring a series of collet set diamonds in varying sizes and angles, these beautiful jewels are retailing from £3,400 for a single band set with three circular rubies or sapphires and a pair of brilliant cut diamonds. At the top end of the spectrum is the Raindance ‘Chelsea’ bracelet, set with over 15 carats of colourless and fancy pink diamonds at £134,400.

Celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2020, Boodles released a limited-edition ring, set in platinum and 18ct rose gold with colourless and Argyle pink diamonds. Varying in carat weights, these limited edition pieces will continue to grow in value and hold their own at auction. In 2023, one such example with approximately 2.80cts of diamonds sold at Tennants Auctioneers for £19,000. Meanwhile, a version of the design on Boodles website set with 4.25cts is available for purchase at £84,000.

To conclude, exquisitely constructed and expertly finished jewellery will always possess a value, and continue to rise according to demand, popularity and inflation over time.

Although trends and fashionable collections will alter and vary over the years, items from the premier jewellery houses, in good condition and with original boxes will retain a demand from collectors, jewellery lovers and indeed those new to the market. Pieces that possess an unusual or rare aspect, such as an early piece from the collection, limited edition runs, and unexpected gemstones can expect to exponentially increase in value over time.

With the clear discrepancy between open market value and retail replacement value, it is essential that clients are equipped with adequate cover for their items. For a specialist, informed and up to date valuation of your jewellery collection, contact our experienced, nationwide team at Doerr Dallas Valuations.

Unveiling the Brilliance Lab-Grown Diamonds

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When is a diamond not a diamond?

What do you call diamonds that are not formed underground but grown in a controlled environment that mimics the conditions under which natural diamonds develop? So, are they synthetic, lab-grown or factory grown or simply ‘diamonds’?

First of all, lets look at how you ‘grow’ those divine diamonds.

There are two popular ways to grow a diamond. Both involve starting with the ‘seed’ of another diamond. The first lab diamond was made in the 1960’s and the industry has changed massively in size and complexity in the intervening 65 years.

The growing of LGD’s is a little like the VHS and Betamax fight in the 1980’s. The first option is using a High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) system, where the seed is then placed amidst some pure graphite carbon and exposed to temperatures of about 1,500C and pressurised to approximately 1.5 million pounds per square inch in a chamber. The alternative model to make diamonds is called Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD). This was slower out of the starting blocks but the quality and size of diamonds produced using this method is arguably superior to HPHT.

This system involves putting the seed in a sealed chamber filled with carbon-rich gas and heating to around 800C. Under these conditions the gases begin to “stick” to the seed, growing a diamond carbon atom by atom.

No one knows quite yet who will win the fight like VHS did back in the day. Vast research development and investment is being put into both practises with neither side prepared to admit defeat yet.

LGD’s represent nature at its most perfect, at a fraction of the price of a natural diamond.

Retail

  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut LGD in 2021 – £16,500
  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut LGD in 2023 – £7,500
  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut certificated natural in 2021 – £55,000
  • 3ct G VS1 round brilliant cut certificated natural in 2023 – £70,000

Some of the questions we are asked are ‘Are they real diamonds?’ and ‘Can you tell them apart from a natural diamond?’

The answer is yes to the first question. They test as a diamond (2.412 on a refractometer) visually and chemically identical to a natural diamond.

However, they can be told apart by those in the know.

Using LWUV and SWUV (long wave ultraviolet and short wave UV) the florescence of a factory made stone is an absolute giveaway. They often have a strong turquoise or purple colour that you never find in the natural world. The growth structure can also give away a man-made diamond because they were grown so quickly, the atomic structure does not have the same chance to settle into a classic framework.

The pricing of diamonds, whether natural or labgrown, depends on various factors such as carat weight, cut, colour, and clarity. While lab-grown diamonds are generally more affordable than their natural counterparts, the price difference is becoming more pronounced as technology advances and demand grows.

Natural diamonds are esteemed for their rarity, formed over millions of years deep within the Earth. Lab-grown diamonds, despite sharing the same physical and chemical properties, are sometimes perceived as less valuable due to their manufactured origin. Costs over the last two years has dropped in value of these stones while natural diamonds are keeping their value.

The latest findings propose that there is very little resale value for a LGD. Many auction houses will not take them and many of the large fine jewellery houses will not sell them including De Beers who set up their own LGD factory and company for their ‘Lightbox’ ranges. They stopped making engagement rings in 2022.

The marked retail price difference gives rise to the challenge in ensuring transparency and proper disclosure to the consumer. Some critics argue that buyers may not always be adequately informed about whether the diamond they are purchasing is natural or lab-grown.

Due to the price differential this could be a devastating find?

Did you know; if a diamond is marketed or sold or valued as a ‘diamond’, without a pre-fix such as lab-grown, synthetic etc, then it is assumed to be an earth grown natural diamond? All lab-grown diamonds of any shape or size must have a pre-fix to aid a consumer’s educated decision process.

During a recent valuation, a diamond ring was presented from a charming young man, who had purchased it to propose to his girlfriend. However, during our appraisal, Annabell had to give him the devastating news that it was not a natural diamond. He had purchased the stone for £38,000 when infact,the price should have been around £9,000– did the jewellers know it was lab grown?

This type of miss-selling has caused the potential for market confusion. Consumers might face challenges distinguishing between natural and lab-grown diamonds, impacting the perceived value of their purchases. So, it is important to buy your jewellery from a recognised jewellery company.

Having reviewed some of the challenges for LGDs verses natural diamonds, they are still hugely popular. In August 2023, LGD amounted to 50% of all diamonds purchased in America. Pandora, who are one of the world’s largest jewellery companies, uses LGD for many of their designs. Gems TV and ‘fashion jewellery’ brands are developing price sensitive ranges for LGDs and because of the size of the market and the lower margins being made, the producers are concentrating on melee size cut goods for watches and ‘halo’ rings and larger (2ct plus) ultra high quality diamonds, such as E & F colour VVS clarity.

So, are Lab-Grown Diamonds here to stay… the rise of lab-grown diamonds is indicative of a broader trend toward sustainable and ethical practices in the jewellery industry. While traditional diamonds maintain their allure and value, lab-grown diamonds are carving a niche for themselves, driven by consumer demand for more price sensitive choices. As technology continues to advance and consumers prioritise ethical considerations, lab-grown diamonds are likely to remain a significant player in the market. However, the coexistence of natural and lab-grown diamonds is expected, with each catering to different preferences and values. The issues associated with lab-grown diamonds against natural stones are multifaceted, touching upon perceived value, ethical considerations, disclosure, and market dynamics.

Will natural diamond values increase due to scarcity? Will women prefer to have a natural diamond on their finger rather than a lab-grown diamond or will price decide?

We wait and watch!