Meet the jewellery team – Alastair Meiklejon

Over the next couple of weeks we will be introducing you to our amazing team…

Profile

Alastair has been involved in the wristwatch and antiques industry for over 20 years as an auctioneer and valuer. He has a particularly broad knowledge with interests and passions to include the following specialities; militaria, watches, automobilia, rock and pop, posters, comic books, and musical instruments.

Over the years watches have become as much pieces of jewellery and a celebration of mechanical art, as well as timepieces, as wristwatches specialist Alastair has had the pleasure of valuing some of the world’s great collections, including Patek Phillipe, Audemars Piguet, Voutilainen, Rolex, and many other great marques’.

Membership

Alastair is a qualified, professional member of the National Association of Valuers and Auctioneers and was elected a Fellow of The Royal Society of Arts in 2017.

About

In his spare time Alastair likes nothing more than enjoying a lovely meal with a nice bottle of red with family and friends. He has, in the past attempted to be a racing driver, however these days he’s happy watching a race from the comfort of his own seat.

Spot-light

Alastair’s favourite part of valuations is hearing the stories behind the item.

Covering

Contact

[email protected]

Is it all about the birkin?

So recently, I have been constantly asked my opinion on why it is that Hermes bags are the items that are most discussed, and in simple terms, it is because their prices fluctuate the most and the variety of pieces that are created are constantly in more demand than they could possibly ever produce. Therefore, the secondary market dictates that the prices have increased at an exponential rate over the last few years, with bags like the new Birkin Rock (Finally, A Men’s Birkin!), and the Kelly en Desordre being released it has guaranteed that collectors will flock to pretty much anything that they produce and then see prices increased by up to 200% on the grey market.

But what about the other big names, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Bottega Veneta…..?

Well, the answer to this question is not so easy…

Let’s start with Louis Vuitton; The Parisian brand has been at the forefront of luxury for over 150 years and in the last couple of decades has been considered to be one of the world’s most valuable luxury brands with not only luggage, but clothing, watches, fragrance and lots of other items in addition.

The monogram bags and purses are probably one of the worlds most instantly recognisable trademarks, and I would bet the vast majority of people would recognise an LV bag, over a Birkin.

Louis Vuitton has many different ranges of products and some standard pieces are a constant, or should I say ‘Classic’. Let’s look at the ‘Speedy 30’ which has been around for a little while, currently retailing at £1,110, it’s a great value little bag, but if we go back a few years…then the price was pretty much half of what it is today, and this has been the story with a lot of monogram pieces.

There is another side to Louis Vuitton. They make some exclusive pieces that one would really struggle to find, and this is where the values start to soar. For example, the Frank Gehry Iconoclast limited edition box – initially retailed around the £2,000 mark, now you will struggle to find one for less than £8,000 – if you can find one at all!

Chanel, of course, is another big player on the handbag market, and what is constantly very apparent is the annual price rise that comes from the luxury French fashion house. Figures of 8% to 10% each year is not uncommon with the most popular quilted bags such as the ‘Classic Small Handbag’ (it’s Chanel, they don’t need fancy names) coming in at over £7,000 in 2022 – this was until recently always considered a £5,000 market bag.

Many of the other brands that dominate the market for handbags, such as Prada, Gucci, and Bottega Veneta will continually release in demand pieces that continue to sell verywell, however, the demand for such items will only ever be at the initial point of sale with the secondary market being nowhere near as lucrative for the resellers, but there will always be the occasional item that goes against the tide and surprises even the experts.

Keeping your valuations up to date is so important as we see values increase in an 18 month period on these handbags….

Fluctuations of the market in the last few years

As with every market, jewellery prices will inevitably fluctuate, though I can’t say I’ve seen the price of precious stones go down in the last few years. Seen as a commodity by some and as a treasure by others, it’s important to understand the cost of remaking a unique piece of jewellery. It will be dictated by global demand for diamond (or other precious stones), gold, silver, palladium and other alloy metals and stones.

High worldwide demand for palladium – due to its key importance in the development of renewable energy – inevitably increases the cost of gold – based items of jewellery. Because of its softness, gold used in jewellery is mixed with alloys. Alloys are other metals, such as zinc, copper, nickel, iron, cadmium, aluminium, silver, platinum and palladium. This mix then alters its appearance, hardness and melting point. Palladium is a chosen favourite as an alloy metal. At today’s value, the scrap value for palladium is £41/gram compared to £21.50/gram for platinum, which then impacts gold jewellery pieces.

As an example, this 9ct gold gate bracelet with heart locket was estimated £70-£100 by Bonhams in 2005. Today’s estimate would most likely be £200-£300.

Designer pieces with diamonds are affected in a similar manner.

This diamond and gold bracelet by Kutchinsky (above) sold at Bonhams for £1,553 (including premium) in 2005.

A similar item by the same designer (below) sold for £2,550 (including premium) in 2019.

For insurance purpose, the above bracelet would receive a value of £8,000 as at 2022.

Coloured stones have also seen an increase in price.

This emerald and diamond cluster ring is set with an emerald weighing approximately 5.20 carats and approximately 1.15 carats of diamonds. It was previously valued at £42,000 in 2011 for insurance purpose. Eleven years on, it is now valued at £65,000.

One could try to apply generic inflation percentages as a tool to update valuations, however this is incorrect and will often lead to your jewellery being under or overvalued. In the case of the above ring, a formula trying to reflect inflation would be detrimental to the value of the ring.

Valuing jewellery should always be case by case, as some signed vintage pieces will increase over the years, but not at the same rate as precious gemstones for example. The market for an Art Déco Cartier wristwatch (as below), though rare, has a smaller market of potential buyers and sellers. Comparatively to coloured stones, the value for this wristwatch will never exceed a certain plateau. This watch currently retails for £35,000.

A similar wristwatch by Cartier (below) sold at Bonhams in 2017 for £16,250 (including premium) and would have most likely received an insurance value of £23,000.

Diamonds on the other hand continue to escalate at a steady pace.

These diamonds earstuds (above) are 4.01 carats and 4.04 carats respectively. They were valued for insurance purposes at £300,000 in 2012 and are now valued at £360,000.

The same applies to contemporary signed pieces such as the Alhambra collection by Van Cleef & Arpels.

The mother-of-pearl Alhambra necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels was sold for £9,950 less than ten years ago and now retails for £15,800. A steady increase reflecting world demand for durable contemporary and elegant jewellery by a reputable designer.

The jewellery market is not exempt from worldwide affairs and economic changes, but it will always have an added unquantifiable value: emotional value. Jewellery can be seen as an investment, but it still predominantly remains a purchase of pleasure and luxury, whichever gem or metal one chooses and whatever happens in the world.

General contents the invisible problem?

Every week we see record prices being achieved by some of the greatest artworks known to man, with some of the most glamorous jewellery and watches going to auction at incredible sums, but how often do you talk with your clients about the carpet in the drawing room, or the suite of furniture purchased in the 1990s?

Just this week we have heard more news about inflation and cost of living rising again, and potentially this could increase well into 2023 and beyond.

So how does this effect your mid – high net worth clients and their contents?

The value of items within the ‘General Contents’ section of most customers insurance schedule has been rising for many years, even before COVID–19 and the dreaded lockdowns of 2020.

According to the Office for National Statistics, the values that we are seeing are increasing year on year for general home furniture by around 16% per year so a settee purchased for £10,000 this time last year would now be costing £11,600, with garden furniture increasing by up to 25% per year. So why is this?

The cost of manufacturing has sky-rocketed since 2019, with many companies having issues recruiting staff and/or sourcing materials, in turn the supply chain has suffered with transport issues in abundance – it’s not unusual to see waiting times run in to months for some items.

Two of the items that I am constantly surprised by are curtains and carpets, with some of our clients spending six figure sums on carpeting their homes, and a pair of lavishly lined silk curtains for a 13ft high sash window costing nearly £10,000, however on paper these have only increased by around 5% this year – but, this is only for the material and not the fitters or the makers, so in turn I believe that these figures are increasing by around 24% with that same pair of curtains now costing £12,400.

Whilst statistics are not available for the inflation of electrical goods, this market is different as the advancement in technology means that many items are out of date the minute they are released, there has of course though been a general increase across the board in most items of this nature.

Clothing will continue to be an interesting question with a broad figure of 8.5% inflation across the board, this however will absorb the designer and couture elements alongside the high street fashion world, which does not always give a totally accurate reflection of the mid-high net worth spending habits.

Whilst each manufacturer is different and sometimes these inflation costs will be absorbed into the operating profit of the company, in most instances, and especially in High Net Worth accounts, it is passed on to the client.

When taking an overall look at your clients, by all means be sure to look at the fine art, the jewellery and many other of the ‘visible’ items that clearly will have changed in value, but be sure that you don’t ignore the invisible ones that may well mean your client is underinsured.

Walk-through Valuation – SPECIAL OFFER

The Walk Through Valuation is a beneficial offering for you or your clients if current content values are based on a ‘guestimate’ or a ‘rough idea’ to ensure the values provided are accurate and up to date. For the comfort and security and assurance that in the event of any claim you are covered why wouldn’t you?

You don’t want to find a claim is not paid in the event of a loss, so ensuring your insurer has a true reflection of your values is so important. The Walk Through Valuation is designed for the Mid Net Worth client to establish/categories the contents correctly, on a room by room, category by category basis, itemising items of single value, identifying issues and providing cross room photographs. We don’t value the jewellery but we will discuss/establish if the current cover
is adequate and any other areas of concern which would require a specialist visit.

A Senior valuer will attend the property to complete and the survey takes approximately 3 hours to complete. Our report will be issued within 15-20 working days providing recommended figures and illustrated.

So, to ensure you/your clients values are true and accurate, recommend the need for a Walk Through Appraisal today – up to 4 bedrooms – £525 plus VAT@ 20% including travel.

Call us today on 01883 722736 to book an appointment or email [email protected]

The Paul Allen collection

In the same way that ‘location, location, location’ has historically underpinned great property investment, ‘quality, quality, quality’ has always lain at the heart of great art collecting. The strength of this strategy of only buying the very best proven crystal clear with the spectacular results achieved by the recent auction of the art collection amassed by the late Microsoft co-founder, Paul Allen’s at Christie’s.

Split in two parts – Visionary: The Paul G. Allen Art Collection, was provocatively billed by Christie’s in their pre-sale marketing, ‘to be the largest and most exceptional art auction in history’, with predications that it would surpass $1 billion in sales for the first time in history, beating the $922.2m realised last by Sotheby’s in May last year’s Macklowe Collection.

Christie’s predictions turned out to be both true and conservative – Part I of the collection on 9th November saw 60 extraordinary works achieve a total of $1,506,386,000, with five paintings achieving prices above $100 million. The works in the sale sold 100 per cent by lot with 65 per cent of the lots selling above their high estimates. Part II of the collection on 10th November, went on to achieve an additional $115,863,500 for the remaining 95 works offered for sale. In total, the proceeds for the landmark series of sales, totalled and an extraordinary and ground-breaking $1,622,249,500 – all of which is being donated to the various charitable causes Paul Allen established and supported during his lifetime.

What makes the Allen collection so extraordinary, aside from the huge numbers attached to it, is that the collection was put together entirely by Allen himself in less than 30 years. The fact that a collection of such quality and size can still be amassed today, with so many masterworks being in museum collections and out of commercial circulation, is remarkable.

The scope of Allen’s collection is unusual in that it spanned more than 500 years, from Botticelli to Monet, from Picasso to Stella, from Seurat to Hockney. This breadth and variety of collecting is increasingly rare in today’s world, when most collectors tend to focus on a specific area of interest or particular artists, and develop collections which, although important, are more limited in their reach. Paul Allen’s collection and his method of collecting harks back to the height of American collecting in the late 19th and early 20th centuries when legendary collectors such as Frick, Rockefeller and Getty scoured the world for masterpieces across all genre and eras – the only prerequisite being quality. This type of collecting is a truly American phenomenon and demonstrates that when there is the rare combination of ambition, taste and limitless money, great things can happen.

What sets the Paul Allen Collection apart from others is the also fact that Allen himself oversaw each and every purchase himself, without the help of the ubiquitous art advisor who is the mainstay of most billionaire collectors. This personal engagement in the collection, reflects Allen’s strong interest in world culture and history, and gives the collection a personality which only great collections possess. As Paul Allen said, “When you look at a painting you’re looking into a different country, into someone else’s imagination, how they saw it.”

It was a given that such an extraordinary collection was always going to achieve extraordinary things when offered at auction – since the market is avaricious for works of this level. Christie’s performed their part superbly, and ran a slick international marketing campaign that promoted the collection worldwide. The results were stupendous.

The highest price achieved in the sale was for Georges Seurat’s 1888 Pointillist masterpiece, Les Poseuses, Ensemble (Petite version), which made $149.2m and smashed the previous Seurat world record by a multiple of four. The world icon is used far too often in modern parlance, but in this case, the word is truly deserved.

Similarly, Paul Cézanne’s 1880-1890 La Montagne Sainte-Victoire – a classic rendering of Cézanne’s most iconic of subjects – also smashed the $100m barrier, achieving $137.8m; and Gustav Klimt’s 1903 painting, Birch Forest, set a world record for a Klimt, selling for $104.6m.

Other notable sales included the highest price ever for a van Gogh painting, Verger avec cyprès, which sold for $117.2m. Paul Gauguin’s 1899, Maternité II made $105.7m, and Lucien Freud’s masterful portrait, Large Interior WII (after Watteau), made $86,265,000.

Further paintings by Éduard Manet, Pablo Picasso, David Hockney, Andrew Wyeth, and Georgia O’Keeffe, all went onto achieve strong prices, alongside sculptures by Alberto Giacometti, Alexander Calder and Max Ernst.

In contrast to these masterpieces of Impressionist and Modern Art, the collection also featured a number of significant old master paintings – most notably, Sandro Botticelli’s exquisite, Madonna of the Magnificat, which sold for a ‘relatively’ affordable $48,480,000m, when one considers the rarity of fully autograph works by Botticelli on the market.

One work, Lot 131, demonstrates to me more than any other work, the personal nature of the collection, and the discerning eye of the Paul Allen himself. It also happens to be the most modest work offered for sale. Measuring only 21cm high, it is an exquisite but fragmented Renaissance sculpture showing clasped hands of the Virgin Mary, catalogued as Circle of Donatello. The fact that a man such as Allen, who could afford any masterpiece in the world, was also drawn to such an exquisite but unassuming work, indicates the level of his sophistication, and proves that quality, should lead a collector when buying a work. The market agreed, and the little gem made 26 times its lower estimate and made $252,000.

J is for Jensen

The eponymous brand Georg Jensen epitomises the best of what we think of as Scandinavian design. Timeless yet innovative; made to the highest standards, yet often deliciously spare and simple. Their current web site opens with the phrase ‘Experience classic Scandinavian design at its most elegant and refined’. There is little to disagree with here, nearly 120 years after Jensen first started to make pieces for the Scandinavian market.

Today there are Georg Jensen shops and franchises worldwide. Producing and selling, jewellery, watches, tableware and giftware. Georg Jensen is perhaps best known for silver and the brand is still much associated with the style and principles of its founder.

It was tragic circumstances that lead Jensen to start producing silver in such a commercial way. He was born in 1866, the son of a knife grinder in a town to the north of Copenhagen. At the age of 14 he was apprenticed to a goldsmith where he studied for the next four years. Having been a jobbing silver and goldsmith for a further four years, he enrolled at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts in 1887, where
he studied sculpture.

After graduation he not only started to exhibit as a sculptor, but also started to study ceramics. For some years he tried to make a living as a ceramicist, but when his wife died, he was obliged to find a better way to make an income to support his young family and he turned to the production of silver and jewellery. However, his training in the wider range of fine Arts, a spell studying in Paris, and his interest in the naturalist styles of the Art Nouveau movement, combining flora and fauna into his work, remained a persistent theme and singled his designs out as materially different from those of others.

He was, like the members of the British Arts and Crafts movement, passionate about how pieces were made. He eschewed machinery and what he regarded as ugly mass produced pieces. It is a testament to his design principles and the quality of his manufacturing that many variants of the early designs are still in production today. He was committed to making beautiful pieces that were accessible to all budgets. This was handy, as the materials were less costly and therefore a smaller investment to an impoverished artisan. He used moonstones, amber, enamel, all in silver. After a highly successful early exhibition his pieces were in such demand that it is said he would put a sign in the workshop window saying ‘closed for repairs’, to buy himself some time to make more!

For many years he combined his work as a ceramicist with his silversmithing. The silversmithing was, however, far more lucrative and he had a young family to raise. He bought his first workshop in Copenhagen in 1904 and such was the appeal and quality of his design that by 1924 he had opened retail outlets in Berlin, London and New York. The New York store is of particular interest as it was run independently by Frederick Lunning, who had been a salesman for Jensen in Odense and Copenhagen and also opened the London shop. The first store New York Store, ‘Georg Jensen Handmade Silver’, was followed by a larger store on 5th Avenue selling a variety of homewares. This is still the case today.

One of Jensen’s skills was to recognise talent in others and employ their skills under the Jensen banner. They, in turn subscribed to both the design values and his insistence on high quality hand production. Over the century, Georg Jensen has employed numerous designers including Gundolph Albertus, Johan Rohde, Harald Nielsen and Henning Koppel.

If you own any Jensen pieces you will see, that as well as the classic Jensen stamp, many are signed with the name of their designer and also have a design number. If you acquire a piece of vintage Jensen, you will often be able to use these to trace the piece back to its origins.

He married four times, outliving three wives, he travelled widely, and experienced highs and lows artistically, emotionally and financially. Towards the end of his life, he was interviewed and asked about the purpose of Art. He replied “people worry too much about purpose. The object must…absorb the most beautiful abstracts from the nature that surrounds us.”

Designs showing beautiful abstracts from the nature that surrounds us.

Winslow Homer

I went to the Winslow Homer exhibition at the National Gallery last week and strongly recommend it to you. It is the first time his work has been shown en masse in the UK and there are no paintings by him in British Public Collections, despite his being a household name in the USA.

He started life painting scenes from the American Civil War and much of his work describes conflict, racial tensions, and other social problems. He also had a real obsession with the sea and spent nearly two years on the Northumbrian coast at Cullercoats, observing and recording the activities of the local fishing community and its struggle with the sea. For Homer, the sea was a source of pleasure, livelihood and terror depending on its mood. He painted numerous scenes of people being rescued from the tempestuous ocean.

I was very struck by a painting executed in 1904, which shows three men wearing sowesters and waterproofs in a rowing boat where the swell is so immense you can’t see the boat , and its title is ‘Kissing the Moon’. It reminded me of a passage in Joseph Conrad’s novella ‘Typhoon,’ where the waves are so great the characters in the boat see the moon disappear below the horizon and when it returns to view, appears to be dripping water. I wondered if this book could have had an influence on Winslow, so I googled it! Conrad began the novel in 1899 and it was subsequently serialized in Pall Mall Magazine between January and March 1902. It was first published in book form by Putnam in New York in 1902, two years before Winslow Homer painted the picture. I think I have answered my own question.

Winslow Homers don’t come up for auction very often, only 68 in the last 35 years. The world record for him (at auction ) was achieved in November 2014, by Sotheby’s in New York, when Mrs Paul Mellon’s ‘Watching the tide go out’, a tiny canvas, just over 12 x 16 in , made $4.5m.

An introduction to NFT’s for brokers – with Jonathan Horwich, Art specialist & Alastair Meiklejon, Senior Valuer

NFT’s are the latest trend in the art world, but many people do not understand them.

  • What are they?
  • How do they work – how do you “use” them?
  • Why do artists make them?
  • Why do collectors collect them?
  • How are they priced, sold and valued?
  • Are they worth anything?
  • What are the risks in buying them?
  • Can they be insured?

8 Problems with asset valuations clients may not recognise – what brokers need to know

This will be by Alastair Meiklejon, Senior Valuer & Wristwatch Specialist

When a client tells you they have a valuation for their assets a broker may breathe a sigh of relief – but that relief could be misplaced.

Alastair will share examples of documents Doerr Dallas Valuations have seen from clients and brokers that are inadequate and explain why this is the case. He will also share ideas and questions that may be useful for brokers to help them raise these issues with their clients in a non-confrontational way.

Making sure your client has correctly valued all their assets will:

  • Ensure you are offering the best service
  • Reduce the chance of issues at the point of claim
  • Ensure the risk is correctly underwritten, insured and priced
  • Potentially lead to higher (but correct) premiums, and hence higher commission
  • Protect your PI from claims that you did not correctly advise your client

There will be the opportunity for Q&A at the end of the session.

Audience: useful for all levels of experience, and for both personal lines and commercial client-facing broking staff. Particularly useful for those early in their careers.