This year, the iconic, elegant sports watch designed by Gérald Genta for Patek Philippe in 1976 turns 50. The Nautilus has seen five decades of popularity, with references, releases and innovations, blended with timeless design, that has captivated collectors young and old for all of this time. To celebrate this milestone for one of the most recognisable, coveted wristwatches, we thought we would take a look at some memorable references through time.
1976 – The first Patek Philippe Nautilus, the ‘Jumbo’ ref. 3700/1A
The 3700/1A was the first Nautilus ever released by Patek Philippe. In the midst of the quartz crisis, Patek Philippe released this bold, stainless steel dress watch with a cal. 28-255 C, ultra thin automatic movement, with an equally bold price of $3,100 (equivalent to around $17,000 today) making it the most expensive stainless steel watch in their catalogue, more expensive than some of their gold models.
Aside from being a brand-new sports/dress watch model, the design was unapologetic in size – boasting a ‘Jumbo’ 42mm stainless steel case and integrated bracelet. Reportedly drafted on a napkin by Genta, the shape for this iconic watch was inspired by portholes in ships. The ridged dial so recognised in contemporary Nautilus’ was also born here, said to be a ‘teak deck pattern.’ The 3700 was discontinued in the 1990s.
2006 – Debuted on the 30th Anniversary, the most renowned Nautilus ref. 5711
The 5711 was released in 2006 on the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus ‘Jumbo.’ Sticking with its design heritage, the case was 43mm in diameter including the ears, and featured a central sweeping seconds hand, within a three-part case. The 5711 was produced for fifteen years and featured three movements over the course of its time, as well as progressing dial variations – which can affect value fairly significantly. For example, the green and Tiffany & Co. dials released in the last years of the 5711’s production saw the boom of these models as ‘hype’ watches during the Covid watch bubble. The 5711 was officially discontinued in 2021.
Steel model originally retailed at $17,000 in 2006.
This hugely significant, celebrated reference has set auction records on the open markets for special editions. In 2021, a Tiffany dial 5711 set records at Philips in selling for $6.2 million. It was, however, swiftly dethroned in 2024 when a ref. 5711/1500A, with unique hand-engraved case by Patek Philippe, sold for around $7.65 million.
2014: The release of the Nautilus Time Travel Chronograph, ref. 5990/1A
The Nautilus, updated with chronograph and dual time functions was released at Baselworld in 2014. This model replaced the 2006 released 5980/1A with added complication and refined dial configuration. This stainless steel Nautilus measuring 40.5mm in diameter was powered by a new calibre CH 28-520 C FUS, with four complications – chronograph, date, day/night and travel time.
2016: The 40th Anniversary Limited Editions (1300/700 pieces) refs. 5976/1G-001 and 5711/1P-001
Two editions were released to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus, each with stamping to the dial to commemorate the anniversary. The white gold chronograph, with 44mm diameter, and a platinum time and date 40mm Nautilus.
Left: The Patek Philippe white gold diamond-set chronograph 40th Anniversary Nautilus, ref. 5976/1G-001. Retailed in 2016 at $96,390. We would place an approximate insurance replacement figure of £300,000 on this model.
Right: The Patek Philippe platinum diamond-set 40th Anniversary Nautilus, ref. 5711/1P-001. Retailed in 2016 at $113,400. We would place an approximate insurance replacement figure of £330,000 on this model.
2018 – The first-ever Nautilus Perpetual Calendar, ref. 5740/1G-001
The 5740/1G-001 made history for the Nautilus as the first ever with Grand Complication, in the form of a Perpetual Calendar. Released in 2018, this 40mm Nautilus retained the sleek profile of its predecessors.
Retailed in 2018 at CHF 105,000 (£99,500). We would place an approximate insurance replacement figure of £200,000 on this model.
2026 –The 50th Anniversary – Four New Models Announced in April at Watches & Wonders
The four new models announced for the 50th anniversary were described by Hodinkee as “large, small, and surprising.” The four models had no date function and no centre seconds. With three wristwatches and a desk clock, this broad offering caters to fans of the model with mid-size re-appearances, ‘Jumbo’ pieces, straps, bracelets and a novelty collector’s piece. The commemorative dates ’50 1976-2026’ have been moved from the dial in the 40th anniversary models, and engraved more subtly to the rotor of the cal. 240 movement, otherwise to the case back of the desk clock.
The 5610/1P-001 with an ultra-thin platinum 38mm case measuring 38mm in diameter, marking the return of the ‘medium’ size launched in the 1980s. With diamond set into the 9o’clock ear and white gold baton markers. Limited to 2,000 pieces. Priced at time of release at CHF 90,000 (£85,500).
The 5810/1G-001 features a white gold 41mm case with a sunburst blue dial, diamond indices and alternating polished/satin finished bracelet. Limited to 2,000 pieces. Priced at time of release at CHF 75,000 (£71,000)
The 5810G-001 features a white old case with sunburst blue dial, diamond indices and navy blue composite strap with cream stitching. Limited to 1,000 pieces. Priced at time of release at CHF 60,000 (£57,000)
The 958G shows the iconic Nautilus reinterpreted as a desk clock. Purportedly an idea by one of Patek Philippe’s apprentices, this cleverly engineered, bold timepiece adds the element of surprise to the 50th anniversary. Limited to 100 pieces. Priced at time of release at CHF 205,000 (£194,000)
We will await the value projection on the secondary market for these special 50th anniversary edition Nautilus, and indeed the other references featured in this article. For more information about our watch valuations, visit www.doerrvaluations.co.uk.
Liz worked in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter for one of the UK’s leading regional jewellery auction houses whilst completing her FGA and DGA qualifications from the Gem-A, achieving top marks in each.