Elsa Schiaparelli (1890 – 1973) was one of the most influential fashion designers of the inter-war period. Yet, for decades her work was often overlooked and underappreciated. With a major retrospective exhibition opening at the V&A later this month, and a resurgence in the modern ‘Schiaparelli’ brand, I will be exploring the market for rare, significant pieces which collectors’ clamour for.
Raoul Dufy (1877 – 1953) ‘Une presentation chez Schiaparelli’ 1935. This work illustrates the Maison Schiaparelli headquarters Hotel de Fontpertuis. Dufy collaborated and produced textile designers for Schiaparelli.
Sold at Christies New York, Lot 337, Impressionist and Modern Art Day Sale, 13th May 2025 for $189,000. (Insurance in the region of £250,000).
Who Was Elsa Schiaparelli?
What truly distinguished Elsa Schiaparelli from her contemporaries, was the embrace of the Avant Garde and particularly Surrealism. Schiaparelli collaborated with many of the 20th century’s most influential artists, from Dali to Dufy, Giacometti to Jean Cocteau. Schiaparelli’s entirely unconventional approach produced designs which blur the lines between fashion and wearable art. Her competitor Coco Chanel dismissively dubbed Elsa ‘that Italian artist who makes clothes.’
Born into an aristocratic Italian family, and with her father a noted scholar, Elsa grew up surrounded by books that sparked her imagination. Always unconventional, in her early twenties she rejected the suitor her parents deemed suitable and departed Rome for London. There, she met the enigmatic con man and self-styled ‘psychic’ William de Wendt, also known as William de Kerlor, amongst his aliases. The pair became engaged within 48 hours of meeting! They married in 1914, though Elsa’s parents allowance gave some financial comfort, life with de Kerlor could be precarious and they were frequently on the move. After de Kerlor was deported from England in 1915, they moved around cities in France. With the First World War raging and their personal circumstances increasingly difficult the couple sailed for New York in 1916.
It was during this transatlantic voyage that Elsa Schiaparelli formed a life changing connection with Gabrielle ‘Gaby’ Picabia – wife of Francis Picabia, noted Dada and Surrealist artist. The friendship was pivotal. Not only did Gaby provide support for Elsa when her husband abandoned her in New York after the birth of their daughter in 1920, she opened the door to an extraordinary circle. Through Gaby, Schiaparelli met some of the most important artists of the 20th century, including Man Ray and Marcel Duchamp.
In 1922 Schiaparelli relocated from New York to Paris, initially making ends meet by dealing in antiques and decorative objects. Through Picabia’s connections, she was introduced to the seminal fashion designer Paul Poiret. Despite her lack of formal training, Poiret encouraged Schiaparelli strides into fashion design.
The Rise of the Schiaparelli Fashion House
Her first notable success came with a trompe-l’oeil ‘bow’ or ‘cravat’ knitted sweater, which she designed and commissioned from local artisans in 1927. Once Elsa was spotted wearing it, the jumper was ordered in bulk by an American retail buyer.
Like the famous sweater, Schiaparelli’s first atelier built its reputation on the burgeoning trend for knitted ‘sports wear’. When a tennis outfit designed by Schiap (as she was known by friends) complete with culottes was worn by a player at the 1931 Wimbledon tournament, it caused a stir.
After establishing her own Haute Couture ‘Schiaparelli’ label, the business expanded rapidly in the early 1930s. Her bold unique designs attracted a stylish clientele, including major celebrities such as the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Katherine Hepburn, Vivien Leigh and Greta Garbo.
The Golden Age of Schiaparelli Couture
The brands most celebrated creative period ran from around 1935 until the outbreak of the Second World War. During this time Schiaparelli produced bi-annual themed collections, including ‘Circus’ (1937), ‘Zodiac’ (1938) inspired by Schiaparelli’s astronomer uncle, and ‘Pagan’ (1938) – these remain coveted by collectors today.
Why Schiaparelli Pieces Are Highly Collectable
To give a sense of the demand for these pieces, in February 2021, a complete outfit from the Zodiac collection came up for auction in Paris with an estimate of 15,000 – 30,000 euros. Demand was so intense, it ultimately sold for almost fifteen times this range, achieving 430,000 euros.
Similarly, in 2013 when a rare ‘Zodiac’ jacket was offered at auction in London and drew fierce bidding. The important piece sold for a remarkable hammer price of £110,000.
The ongoing success of the brand soon brought interest from Hollywood, Schiaparelli acting as costume designer for the legendary actress Mae West’s film ‘Every Day’s A Holiday’ (1937). Mae West personally insisted that Schiaparelli design costumes for the film, and plaster casts of her body were sent to Paris to ensure a perfect fit. Examples of the costumes made for the movie have been offered at auction. In 2017 one such outfit was included in the sale of the collection of the late actresses Debbie Reynolds and Carrie Fisher. At that time, it fetched $48,000. When the same outfit resurfaced in 2024 at Freeman’s Auctioneers in Chicago, this time outside of such an important sale it sold for $17,780.
Schiaparelli Jewellery and Surrealist Design
Towards the end of last year, Schiaparelli made the headlines, when a pair of oversized buttons appeared at auction in London. But what made them newsworthy? The vendor had originally bought them in a mixed lot of costume jewellery at a Derbyshire auction, for just £40.
The new owner was interested in their unusual design. After research it was revealed they had been designed for Elsa by her friend, the artist Alberto Giacometti. They were likely created for a jacket, similar to one made for the actress Marlene Dietrich.
Schiaparelli often utilised buttons as key elements of her striking style, but they are often unmarked, making identification challenging. These buttons were of bronze, depicting a female figure with arms raised. Although offered individually, each estimated at £5,000 – 8,000, they generated a great deal of attention, eventually selling for a combined total of £61,000.
Elsa was a true pioneer, introducing ground-breaking concepts that we now take for granted – from visible zips to the use of synthetic fabrics, and her signature colour, the never before seen ‘shocking pink’. She also developed the type of product innovations we would expect from any modern luxury fashion house. Costume jewellery was one such area. Dubbed ‘Junk’ jewellery these pieces can be valuable, though like the buttons are frequently unmarked. Schiaparelli appreciated unusual and new materials, and her jewellery often uses these rather than precious metals.
One standout is a rare necklace created for Schiaparelli by Jean Clément, a skilled plastics designer, who created many of the buttons for the brand. An example appeared in a Sotheby’s Paris fashion auction in July 2018. This rare piece is almost identical to one included in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Demand for pieces this scarce is strong, insects were a recurring motif of surrealism and Schiaparelli’s own designs. Despite the necklace being offered with an estimate of 15,000 – 20,000 euro, it far exceeded expectations selling for 85,000 euro.
Another unsigned necklace, also manufactured in 1938 for Schiaparelli’s ‘Pagan’ collection was sold by Bonhams Paris in April 2024. This time using gilded and enamelled base metal reached just short of €3,500.
Surrealist Collaborations with Salvador Dalí
Schiaparelli collaborated with her friend Salvador Dali on several pieces, including arguably her most famous creation the ‘Shoe Hat’ – a surreal piece of millinery, designed to look like an upturned heeled shoe. Another stylish collaboration was the ‘Lobster Dress’, featuring a Dali-designed lobster, famously worn by Wallace Simpson.
These garments are exceptionally rare. More commonly, collectors encounter scent bottles and cosmetics designed by Dali for the Schiaparelli brand.
Their first joint project came in the form of the ‘Telephone Dial’ powder compact, produced in 1935. Clients could choose different colours, including black or tortoiseshell, and add personalised engraving. These objects are again unsigned and do appear occasionally on the open market. In late 2025 an example was included in a London auction. Against an estimate of £800 – 1200 it sold for £2,210.
Post-war Dali designed a bottle for the Schiaparelli fragrance ‘Le Roy Soleil’, including a glass bottle manufactured by Baccarat. These are popular with collectors. When a complete bottle and case appeared at auction in the US in 2021 it sold for $4,250.
Iconic Schiaparelli Perfumes and Collectables
Fragrance was a cornerstone of the Schiaparelli brand, so much so the company created a dedicated perfume department. Its most successful scent was ‘Shocking’, named after the signature shocking pink The bottle was just as eye-catching, designed to mimic the plaster cast of Mae West’s famously voluputous figure Elsa had received a couple of years prior. This wonderfully surreal silhouette acted as the inspiration for Jean Paul Gautier’s perfume bottles still sold today.
In 2019, several Schiaparelli products from Mae West’s own collection were sold in Beverly Hills. included the perfume she inspired. Thanks to the exceptional provenance the collection far exceeded its $500 – $700 estimate, selling for $3,125.
Another pioneering product was ‘Snuff’, a men’s cologne release in 1939. Its bottle design, in the form of a pipe, was taken from the iconic Rene Magritte painting ‘The Treachery of Images (Ceci n’est pa une pipe)’ (1929). ‘Snuff’ combined surrealism with Schiaparelli’s sense of humour. Today, it is a collectable. Prices typically range from low hundreds to over £1,000 depending upon condition.
The outbreak of the Second World War led Elsa to flee Paris, she returned to New York in 1941. Although her French atelier continued, it did so under increasingly in difficult circumstances. When she eventually returned to Paris post-war, the fashion world was fundamentally changed. Tastes had shifted and newcomers such as Christian Dior now dominated the landscape. In 1954, the Schiaparelli atelier closed its doors, yet the perfume and accessories departments continued to operate.
The Revival of the Schiaparelli Brand
Attempts were made to revive the brand in the late 20th century, finding little success. The brands relaunch in 2006, however, brought a turning point. Since 2015, under the guardianship of Maison Schiaparelli’s creative director Daniel Roseberry, the house has gone from strength to strength. Harnessing the essence of Elsa Schiaparelli’s vision, the brand is once again the go to for celebrities seeking the avant-garde. Recently, Margot Robbie selected a stunning gown from the brand for the world premiere of ‘Wuthering Heights’. Bad Bunny wore a custom Schiaparelli suit with an unusual laced back, to receive his Grammy Award earlier this year – a reflection of the renewed cultural impact of Schiaparelli.
Schiaparelli in Today’s Collectors’ Market
More modern pieces can be acquired in Luxury Auctions and should certainly be included in insurance appraisals.
The V&A South Kensington exhibition ‘Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art’ opens on Saturday 28th March and will run until early November.
Stephanie has worked in the fine art and antiques industry for over 20 years. She is the former Department Director of Collectors sales at Bonhams Auctioneers. Stephanie was additionally the Head of Bonhams Entertainment Memorabilia department and is a recognised expert in Popular Culture.